Journals of John Forbes: Journal 6
Information
Title - Journals of John Forbes: Journal 6
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/3/1/6
Date - 1 Dec 1822-15 Mar 1823
Scope & content - John Forbes' travel journal, 1 Dec 1822-15 Mar 1823, in Mozambique, Madagascar, Comoro Islands and Quirimbas Islands. The journal ends mid-entry, and is continued in RHS/Col/3/1/7
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-81: Narrative of travel, 1 Dec 1822-16 Feb 1823
Pages 82-84: Blank
Pages 85-127: Narrative of travel, 16 Feb-15 Mar 1823
Pages 128-132: Blank
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled '5. Journal, December 1st 1822 to March 15th 1823'. Most of the spine has flaked away. The binding is reasonably robust but the front cover has a tear in it near the spine. Pages are reasonably robust. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 32 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm
From 12 Feb-15 Mar 1823 the journal appears to be a copy of RHS/Col/3/1/8, with annotations from the original incorporated. The remainder of RHS/Col/3/1/6 may have been copied from a version that does not survive
The volume is written in Forbes' hand, on rectos only. Annotated in pencil by Forbes (annotations by Forbes unless otherwise indicated), with occasional marginal and interlinear annotations, annotations on the blank verso pages, corrections and crossings out. The more substantial annotations have been included and identified in the description, whilst minor alterations of spelling or phrasing have not been noted
The journal contains headings by location
The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
The volume had a loose enclosure at page 101. This enclosure was removed for preservation purposes during cataloguing and stored with the volume in a separate folder:
Enclosure 1, originally enclosed at page 101: A loose slip of paper, perhaps torn from a letter
Summary of contents:
(1 Dec 1822) Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven] deciding to survey the coast near Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay, Mozambique] as far as St John's River [Mzimvubu River or Umzimvubu River, South Africa], the area having been left unsurveyed by the Barracouta. Sailing towards Madagascar, the varying, largely unfavourable, winds having prevented all but occasional surveying along the coast, where they had remained until 7 [Nov]
The coast, called by the Portuguese Terra dos Fumos [the coast around St Lucia, South Africa], in general low, but having a ridge of sand hills 100-700 feet high, having evidently been formed by sand blown up from the beach, and covered with shrubs or bare where exposed to winds. The 'general line of coast' with the hills running north-east and south-west. Reaching Cape St Lucia [South Africa], near a small river by the same name, located at latitude 28°24'00''S and longitude 23°24'00''E
Advancing southward near the mouth of Fisher's River [?Mdloti River or Tongati River, South Africa]: 'that which was taken for Fisher's River was not it, which we did not know until this coast', locating the river further down the coast and naming it Morley's Creek, after William Henry Morley [master on HMS Leven], who died of the fever and was buried beside it: 'this gentleman was very much esteemed, and in him Captain Owen lost an excellent officer & navigator'
The coastline running south-west towards the interior of the country, with a mountain ridge rising gradually from the coast at Point Durnford [Durnford Point, South Africa] ('so named after one of our young hydrographers [an officer appointed to delineate it, Edward Philip Durnford, midshipman on HMS Leven]) towards the west about eight leagues from the coastline. The mountain range then skirting the coast as far as St John's River [Mzimvubu River] at latitude 31°36'S and longitude 29°24'E. Other hills interposed occasionally between the mountains and the coast, varying in height, the first range 'from about two thousand to fifteen hundred feet, the others from three or four hundred upwards', gradually diminishing in size towards the shore. The country 'finely diversified with green herbage and wood', with apparently easy landing possibilities. The sand hills lower than those further north. The 'primitive earth' of red, sandy loam appearing similar to that around the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo, Mozambique]. Continuing to sail eastward to 53°E, 'having gone as far south as 32°' towards the island of St Mary's [Nosy Boraha, Madagascar] off the coast of Madagascar, reaching it on 21 Dec
(21 Dec 1822) Seeing very few birds during the passage. Seeing a tropic bird (Phaethon aethereus) on crossing the Tropic of Capricorn. Two flying fish (Exocoetus volitans) landing on board. Seeing one dolphin (Delphinus delphus) [Delphinus delphis] and one shoal of porpoises (Delphinus phocinus) [Delphinus phocaena] on 17 Dec. 'Being in the longitude in which we thought we might fall in with the homeward bound Indiamen [East India Company ships] and have an opportunity of forwarding letters', but passing no other vessels until seeing a brig in the distance on 20 Dec. Being unable to ascertain the colours hoisted [by the ship for identification], 'we were however concerned she was not an English vessel, and we also expected that we should have another means of forwarding them through the medium of the French resident at Madagascar'
The sea during the passage very smooth compared to the 'western ocean'. Light winds, with rain towards the evening. Anchoring off the south point of St Mary's Island [Nosy Boraha]. Since leaving Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], no one falling ill with fever, and those ill recovering
(22 Dec 1822) Almost becalmed in the morning. In the afternoon, a northerly wind 'kept us beating about in the channel' between St Mary's [Nosy Boraha] and Madagascar all day. St Mary's appearing low and thickly wooded. Madagascar appearing 'finely diversified' with hills and thickly wooded, 'with altogether a rich and beautiful appearance'. Anchoring in the evening in the channel. The weather very hot, with the temperature between 80 and 83 degrees
(23 Dec 1822) Sailing to anchorage off the French settlement on Quail Island [Ilot Madame, Madagascar], a small island at the mouth of a small 'finely formed harbour' with shallow water and coral reefs at the entrance. Anchoring at 3pm. William Owen, Captain Vidal [Alexander Vidal, first lieutenant, later captain of HMS Barracouta] and Lieutenant Mudge [William Mudge, first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta] going on shore to pay their respects to the French commandant
The French settlement being the third on the island, with the first settlement in the 17th century comprising 120 men, 'which were cut off and massacred by the natives' three months later, the French erecting a monument to their memory on a hill near the present settlement. The second settlement formed in 1745, being abandoned in 1761 'of their own accord, in consequence of the unhealthiness of the climate'. The present settlers having arrived in November 1821 ('one of the unhealthy months') losing 104 out of 240 people to fever during the first four months, including 'nearly all their females'. Many of the remaining settlers in poor health, 'I may say all appear much emaciated', but determined to remain for another year. 'The natives seem reconciled to them, perforce have offered them no molestation'
The soil a very rich loam and vegetable mould, with 'rich, luxuriant' vegetation, 'splendid' Urania speciosa [Ravenala madagascariensis], Barringtonia speciosa [Barringtonia asiatica] and different species of Terminalia, Theophrastia [?Chrysophyllum], Ixora, Hernandia and Pandanus [annotated in pencil: 'Urania speciosa & raffia [Raphia]] covering the island. Urania speciosa being the most common plant: 'an idea may be formed of its grandeur by these specimens of it in some of the hothouses in England', frequently reaching 30 feet, with leaves standing opposite each other, forming 'an immense fan'
(24 Dec 1822) Going on shore to collect specimens. Visiting the gardens of Monsieur Le Nore [unidentified], 'the French gardener and botanist'. The garden 'much in the English style', with several European vegetables and flowers. The climate being too hot for most of the vegetables, the gardeners having to protect them from the scorching sun by screens made of Urania [Ravenala] leaves, similar to lettuce protected from frost in England by straw screens. Kidney beans surviving well, but peas and beans or vegetables in the order Cruciferae not succeeding, and the climate probably being too hot for potatoes, but sweet potatoes (Convolvulus batatas) [Ipomoea batatas] a good substitute. Cassava (Jatropha manihot) [Manihot esculenta] ('very good'), edows (Arum esculentum) [eddoe, Colocasia antiquorum or taro, Colocasia esculenta] and yams (Dioscorea sativa) [Dioscorea villosa] being cultivated. Some cocoa nut [coconut] trees growing well. The garden containing some plants of the bread fruit tree (Artocarpus incisa) [Artocarpus altilis]. Banana and plantain growing, with the woods 'full of' pineapple ('very excellent'), mango (Mangifera indica and laxiflora) [Mangifera laxiflora, identification unresolved as at Jun 2018] and lime (Citrus limonia) [?rangpur]. 'Very excellent quality' rice growing
Seeing species of kidney bean, tobacco, sweet potato, cassava and Indian corn [flint corn] in the 'gardens of the natives'. Collecting specimens (specimens 1-15), seeds and living plants. Shooting a kingfisher (Alcedo coerulocephala) [?Alcedo coerulescens] (specimen 30). Returning on board the ship in the evening
(25 Dec 1822) Arranging specimens collected the previous day. Remaining on board due to pouring rain
(26 Dec 1822) Heavy rain in the morning. Collecting plants in the afternoon, finding new plants and making additions and improvements to the existing collection
(27 Dec 1822) Arranging specimens. Changing the paper of specimens. Disposal of the belongings of Captain Cutfield [William Cutfield, captain of HMS Barracouta] and William Henry Morley [who had both died of fever]. Seeing a shark (Squalus tigrinus) [Stegostoma fasciatum] near the ship and baiting it with a hook of 'stinking beef' thrown overboard, 'which he very soon took, it having been previously examined by his forerunner the pilot fish (Gusterosteus ductor) [Naucrates ductor]'. In order to get the shark on board, attaching a strong rope with a noose behind the pectoral fins: 'it then was as much as 30 men could do to hoist him in'. The 'monster' measuring 13 feet in length and six feet across, with five rows of teeth and a mouth 'sufficiently capacious to have taken in the body of middle sized man'. Seeing another shark and baiting it: 'in half an hour we had one at each gangway'. The second shark found to be a female with 40 young ones inside her, measuring eight feet in circumference. Finding in her stomach several shells, 'bullocks' legs & hoofs, heads & claws of fowls, bones, a basket that have been thrown overboard and numerous other delicate bits'. The shark being 'attended by' numerous young sharks, pilot fish and sucking fish (Echineis remora) [Remora remora]
(28 Dec 1822) Arranging specimens on board the ship. Changing specimen papers. Taking seeds and plants on shore in the afternoon. Collecting plants and specimens
(29 Dec 1822) Collecting plants and seeds. William Owen going up a small river running northward up the island and bringing back specimens of plants and seeds for Forbes. Receiving fine specimens of Plumeria and several capsules of Barringtonia speciosa [Barringtonia asiatica]. Landing on the south side of the harbour. Attempting to enter the woods, but being unable to penetrate the dense forest
(30 Dec 1822) William Owen inviting Forbes to go up the river he had travelled the previous day to collect plants, and providing Forbes with a boat. Leaving the ship at 8am. Going up a creek at the south-east corner of the harbour. After 200 yards, finding an elegant Echite (specimens 40, 31). Proceeding across the harbour, passing Timor Island [Ile aux Forbans, Madagascar], a beautiful small conical island in the middle of the harbour, covered with trees and 'placed as if on purpose to beautify this already pretty landscape'. Entering the river east of the French commandant's house at the foot of the monument hill. The entrance to the river about 20 yards wide, continuing at this width for four miles, then gradually narrowing until after a quarter of a mile it was only two yards wide. After two miles, the water becoming clear and fresh. Travelling about five miles up the river. The riverbanks low, the land flooding at high tide
Seeing 'some very fine scenery and vegetation is altogether luxurious & fine'. Not finding many new plants. The most common plants the 'magnificent Urania [Ravenala] and the 'splendid' Sagus raffia [Raphia vinifera]. The land rich and 'beautifully diversified'. Shooting an 'elegant little scarlet [bird]' (specimen 27) in a marsh at the head of the river. Seeing no local people. Up the river, landing on observing a 'great smoke' and seeing two huts, 'but the inhabitants we imagined had ran off and left them on hearing the discharge of our guns'. Fire being used to clear the woods: 'it grieved me to see the splendid trees' and plants falling in the fire. Changing specimen papers, arranging and drying specimens. Collecting more specimens in the afternoon
(1 Jan 1823) Collecting specimens, seeds and living plants. Giving 'the last' of the garden seeds brought from England to the French gardener, Monsieur Le Nore [unidentified]
(2 Jan 1823) Watering and supplies completed. Three men from the Barracouta running away 'from the watering party'. The ship being detained for two days to find them, and to hold 'a court of inquiry' for the deserters. Collecting a few more specimens and seeds
(3 Jan 1823) Going with Lieutenant Johnes [Edward Owen Johnes, lieutenant on HMS Leven and HMS Barracouta] in a boat to the south of the island to look for the men who had run away. Landing at a village and seeing a boat from the Barracouta, which had gone in search of the men with Lieutenant Boteler [Thomas Boteler, second lieutenant on HMS Leven and first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta], another officer and marines. Staying along the coast
Seeing villages along the shore, composed of 12 to 20 houses, about a mile from each other. The houses neat and in regular order, built from Urania speciosa [Ravenala] [annotated in a pencil: 'Ravenalia urania'], cut when green and dried in the sun. The houses oblong, with a room about 18 feet long and ten wide, with the floor raised off the ground six or eight inches, made of boards and covered with mats. The fireplace on the floor, usually in a corner, with racks for drying fish and beef over it, 'to neither of which they use any salt'. The furniture consisting of 'a number of neatly formed cases of mat-work, strengthened by the strong part of the leaves of the Urania, in which they keep their cloth, shells, fruit and other articles of traffic'. Numerous cushions used for 'laying their heads on or sitting on at pleasure; the former posture they generally prefer'. The plates for eating consisting of a piece of Urania leaf, wrapped up 'in a peculiar manner, so as to answer the noble purpose of spoon, cup and plate', from which rice is eaten and water drunk, 'which is the chief part of their food, with a little dried fish'. The people sleeping in a different place at night, in houses built on posts about four feet from the ground, divided into small apartments
Each house having a loover [louvre] attached for weaving cloth from the fibres of Sagus raffia [Raphia vinifera], 'although the process of manufacturing this article is not arrived at such a pitch as in Europe, it is performed on the same principle; they rise two treadles to cross the threads of the warp & instead of the shuttle being the same as the one used in weaving cotton, it is split at both ends onto which the weft is wound and by this means conveyed between the treads of the warp', using smooth pieces of hard wood instead of a reed to beat the threads together with. Weaving done by the women, in particular the married women or the mistress of the house, while the husbands were employed in fishing, cultivating the land or collecting fruit. The 'minor branches of the family' employed in preparing the thread for loom, cooking and making mats and garments of dungaree, with the labour being divided equally, and the 'weaker sex is not made the abject slave of the stronger'
The men's dress, 'if such it may be called', consisting of a cloth 'of their own manufacturing', wound around the loins worn with a 'square, flat, simple mat cap'. The women's dress made of dungaree [a type of cotton fabric], consisting of 'a light body to fit the bust and a petticoat with several yards of loose cloth, which they, when walking, either take under their arm or tie round the bodies'. In one of the villages seeing a pair of bellows, long and five inches in the bore with pistons filing into them, being worked in an upright position with horizontal pipes to convey the air to the fire. Seeing the people playing a game with 'an oblong piece of wood with 32 little holes or dishes, containing seeds of the nicker tree (Guilandina bonduc), 'which seemed to answer the purpose of the chess men in chess, in fact this game had altogether something the appearance of this noble game, only the movements of the two players were much quicker than the movements in that game generally are; I do not however suppose that these natives have any idea of that scientific game' [the game is probably a game called fanorona, indigenous to Madagascar]
The local people in general 'about the middle size, rather stout, particularly the men, the colour not so black as the natives of tropical Africa, is yet very dark. Their hair is not short and wool like the African, but is curled [annotated in pencil: 'crisped'] & long, the countenance of the men is in general a sneering contemptious [contemptuous] precious ferocious grin[?], and the women a sulky, sullen, discontented look, and although they seem pretty well reconciled to Europeans, yet I think it would be dangerous to trust them too far: their thirst for dollars and love of European manufactures is so great that I very much doubt whether it would be safe to mete[?] confidence in a people whose avarice and wants know no bounds, and whose uninformed and naturally savage ambitions and firecious [?ferocious] dispositions would lead them to commit any crime however horrable [horrible] or treacherous to satisfy their unbounded lust. We were not able to discover any thing like religion among them, but our short stay did not give us time to find out anything of this kind or anything particular of their history. They are armed with long spears and there are numbers of firearms among them. [...] they are tolerable navigators in canoes and large open boats, as their neighbours of the Comora Islands [Comoro Islands, Union of the Comoros] have frequently experienced. They are very fond of bartering and selling their fruit, rice, vegetables, cloth, or shells, in fact anything they have, they will part with for Spanish dollars & rupees, which they value more than anything else. They [are] also fond of dungarees, iron or iron hoop, or strong cuttling, especially large clasp knives. Beads, buttons and suchlike useless trinkets, they set little or no value on, they like something more substantial & useful. You pay a dollar for 4 fowls, the same for one goosy [goose], two Muscovy ducks, a piece of cloth, a mat basket & a dollar & half for a bag of rice, in fact everything is valued by the dollar. They are hard to bargain with and frequently ask much more than the article is really worth'
Hearing that the men they were searching for had been at a village the previous day, but had retreated to the interior of the island. Thomas Boteler offering six dollars for each man. A man the fugitives were staying with coming forward within an hour and offering to take the searchers to his house. The search party finding them asleep, bringing them to the boats. Returning to the ship about 7pm. Shooting several birds during the day (specimens 23-26). Collecting several seeds and 'some good plants' of Ephendendrum [Epidendrum] ('No 2 of No 2 large flint glass jar')
(4 Jan 1823) A court inquiry being held for the deserters and punishment inflicted 'according to the different degrees & natures of their several offences'. Having no communication with the shore. Expecting to sail the following morning, arranging the cabin for sailing
(5 Jan 1823) Winds too light for sailing. Going on shore in the afternoon to collect specimens of rocks and seeds
(6 Jan 1823) Weighing anchor in the morning. Sailing up the channel. Light, northerly winds and southerly currents preventing sailing. Anchoring in the channel by the French fort at nightfall
(7 Jan 1823) Weighing anchor in the morning. Encountering the same obstacles as the previous day. With a fresh northerly breeze at noon, William Owen altering the course and steering towards the south-east, to catch the north-east monsoon in order to get round Cape Ambre [Cap d'Ambre, Madagascar]
(10 Jan 1823) Steering towards the north, the winds becoming more favourable. Seeing heavy rain every afternoon during the time in Saint Mary's Road [Nosy Boraha, Madagascar], with lightning over Madagascar
(12 Jan 1823) Latitude 15°12'S and longitude 52°40'E. Experiencing 'that kind of weather generally met with in these latitudes', including sudden squalls, with sudden changes in the winds and heavy rain
(15 Jan 1823) Latitude between 12°34'S and 11°23'S and longitude between 51°36'E and 50°16'E between 15 and 18 Jan. Light winds, the ship at times becalmed. The sea smooth 'as a sheet of ice, with little or no swell'. Seeing several sharks (Squalus leginus) [unidentified] and some dolphins (Coryphana hippurus) [mahi-mahi, Coryphaena hippurus] around the ship, but neither taking bait thrown. Seeing several flocks of birds, believing them to be the lesser gannet (Pelecanus piscator) [?red-footed booby, Sula sula], flying from the north-east in an almost straight line, occasionally darting down for food, flying in a very different manner from albatrosses or petrels. The latter birds frequently following ships, in the hope of food being thrown overboard. Both albatrosses and petrels having been known to follow ships from the Atlantic in 20°W and 26°S to the tropics on the eastern side of Africa in 36°E, or about 1,300 leagues. Seeing an occasional sooty petrel (Procellaria gricea) [sooty shearwater, Ardenna grisea], flying gracefully over the sea. The atmosphere very clear, the sea imposing, 'more from its extent and smoothness, than from the vanity or beauty of the objects', beautiful by moonlight, with light reflected on the surface of the water
On 15 Jan, meeting a small brig from Mauritius [Republic of Mauritius], bound for the Amirante or Seychelle Islands [Amirante Islands, Republic of Seychelles]
(22 Jan 1823) [Arriving at Johanna [Anjouan, Union of the Comoros]] The low beach with heavy surf making landing difficult. Being met by a pilot in a canoe with outriggers. The locals having 'formed a kind of breakwater under the lee' for small boats and canoes to land, particularly during the south-west monsoon, with the bay being well sheltered. The boat being so long, being worried in case it could not turn around the breakwater, the latter being parallel with the coast and the passage narrow, causing a vessel unable to turn around quickly enough to be struck and damaged by the sea. Boarding the canoe 'with such things as I wished to take with me', the canoes appearing stable with the outriggers and unlikely to capsize, although the one boarded by Forbes 'was quite filled with water'. The boat from the Barracouta landing safely, being much shorter. The local people placing a red and yellow flag at the end point of the breakwater, around which vessels had to navigate
The beach 'covered with natives, who set up a loud shout on our landing'. Being welcomed in English, 'with the compliments 'how do you do', 'I hope you are very well' etc'. Being asked questions about the ship and where they had come from, 'and especially how King George [George IV] their friend was, with many wishes for his health, and if there was any news from the Europe'. Informing the people that they were visiting in order 'to leave the box for Prince Alie [Ali bin Salim, prince of Ndzuwani [Anjouan, the Union of the Comoros]], and the parcel for Mr Elliot [William Elliott, British missionary and plant collector], who they told us had left them six months before', and wishing to purchase stock, such as fowls, kids, vegetables and fruit. Being taken to the palace for an audience with the sultan, 'Allahway [Abdallah II bin Alawi, sultan of Ndzuwani] I believe is his name', 'to inform him before anything could be procured which we wanted'
The road from the beach to the palace being 'up what are here called streets, but in an English town would be considered dirty alleys'. Arriving at the door of the palace, having to wait for a few minutes before being announced, His Majesty preparing to see them. Ascending a flight of stone steps to an audience chamber, 'a duly singular room', about 12 feet square, with the chair of state, a table covered with green baize and benches on each side covered with silk for them and the ministers to sit on. The sultan entering from the opposite corner of the room: 'we made our best bows to him, which he several times graciously returned'. The sultan dressed in robes of scarlet cloth trimmed with gold lace, wearing a crown and carrying a richly ornamented Turkish sword instead of a sceptre: 'in person he [was] rather below the middle size, inclined to corpulence, about 55 or 56 years of age as near as we could guess'. The sultan, after taking his seat, asking his visitors through his interpreters the same questions and giving the same compliments they had been greeted with on landing. The sultan's son, Prince Ali ('an interesting young man') and the ministers of state taking their seats. Being given glasses of coconut water, 'in which we of course drank His Majesty's health'. Proceeding to business, reading the letters they had brought, 'along with numerous other papers, certificates etc'. The box they had brought being opened, containing 'wearing apparel, trinkets etc for Princess Alie [unidentified] from the Cape [Cape of Good Hope, South Africa], of which place she was a native. They informed us she was dead some time ago'. The chief interpreter, who had accompanied them from the beach (he 'called himself Admal Roddins, or as we interpreted it, Admiral Rodney, for there are many of them who have assumed high English titles'), informing them that the king had granted them permission to have anything they wanted: 'if we would give him the money, and tell him how many dollars' worth of each article we wanted, he would undertake to supply us with them'
Prince Ali asking them to accompany him to his house, 'some distance' from the palace and 'much more pleasantly situated, and the apartments much neater and more elegantly fitted up & furnished'. Being given sweetmeats, coconut milk and a garland of flowers each. Being shown several letters written by captains of different vessels which had visited, praising the attention and civility of the king [crossed out: 'had been graciously pleased to grant permission for us to have anything we would'] and his subjects, 'likewise the Pilot Duks Charles's certificate book, in which his services are acknowledged, and the money (four Spanish dollars) paid him for piloting each ship to their anchorage'. Returning to the beach to see the boat being loaded with purchased items. The Prince accompanying them to the beach with 'scores of his subjects, who had never lost sight of us from our first landing'. Finding the beach covered with fowls, kids, fruits and other items purchased by Admal Roddins
Having difficulty bringing everything on board the ship. Seeing a storm approaching and hurrying to get on board before the heavy surf and sea made it difficult. Edward Durnford, having returned earlier on the Leven boat, leaving Forbes to get on board from the Barracouta. William Owen having allowed 20 minutes for boarding, 'but much more than this time had now elapsed'. Leaving the shore laded with fowls and fruit, 'amid the shouts of the natives and I believe with their best wishes for our success'
Mr Horsburgh [James Horsburgh, Scottish hydrographer and the author of the navigation guide 'Directions for Sailing to and from the East Indies, China, New Holland, Cape of Good Hope, and the interjacent Ports, compiled chiefly from original Journals and Observations made during 21 years' experience in navigating those Seas', also known as the 'India directory', first published in 1817] measuring the latitude of the anchorage as 12°7.5S and the longitude as 44°30E: 'we made it in 44°5 by observations and chronometer, thus we differ from him 15 miles more to the westward'. This island and the rest of the Comor Islands [Comoro Islands] mountainous and of volcanic origin, 'or have at some remote period been under the influence of fire'. Staying only a few minutes, being unable to observe much, but from the materials of buildings and fragments on the beach, being certain of their origin: 'this idea can not have escaped the observation of anyone that has before visited these islands and paid the least attention to their geological structure'. Similar to the Canaries [Canary Islands, Spain] or Cape de Verd [Cabo Verde] on the opposite coast of Africa, although 'more luxuriant and fruitful'. The islands' importance for vessels from England bound for Bombay [Mumbai, India], the Malabar Coast [India], the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf, 'or what is called the inner passage to India' during the south-west monsoon, when it is possible to anchor safely at Johanna [Anjouan] and procure abundant water and 'excellent refreshments at moderate price'. The islands not appearing unhealthy, but being informed they are 'very much so'. A party of men having died some time ago after working on shore from a ship called the Victor, a sloop of war, with those sleeping on board surviving
The present inhabitants of the islands not aboriginal to the islands, 'but a mixture of Arab Moor and African, but by far the greater part of the former, for [in] very few of the faces we saw was there any traces of either the Madagass or African, except some negros, that are slaves. Their religion is Mahometan [Islam], and they are all subject to a sultan, who resides at Johanna. They are tolerably well armed with muskets and have some cannons, which by the by are almost useless through neglect. Their only enemies are the Madagasses, who come over in swarms in their canoes and commit horrible ravages and plunder; they have not been visited by their marauders for some years owing to the influence of the English with King Radam of Madagascar [Radama I, king of Madagascar]. They also use bows and arrows as well as muskets, but I believe they are very poor warriors, and seem much more disposed to live at home and enjoy the blessings of peace and trade than enter into a conflict in which nothing they wish for is to be gained, and in which they may be severe sufferers, as they have been heretofore by only acting on the defensive'
(23 Jan 1823) Light winds. In sight of Johanna [Anjouan], the Great Comora [Grande Comore, Union of the Comoros] and Mohella [Moheli, Union of the Comoros]. Steering towards the north-west. Passing between the last-mentioned islands in the night
(24 Jan 1823) Very light but contrary winds. At sunset, being four or five leagues from the Great Comora [Grande Comore]. The island seeming almost like one large mountain, with an even surface sloping gradually down to the sea. Estimating the height as 7,000 or 8,000 feet above the sea. Catching a shark with a harpoon from the stern of the ship. The blue shark (Squalus glaucus) [Prionace glauca] measuring ten feet in length, a different species from the ones caught previously
(28 Jan 1823) Seeing land ahead before sunset, having been almost becalmed for four days. The log showing them to have proceeded about 90 miles, having been carried by the current from the Great Comora [Grande Comore] at latitude 43°50'E to 41°07'00'E, for 70 miles by the current at a pace of one mile an hour. Reaching the Island of Wood or Ilhia dos Matos [unidentified, Quirimbas Islands]: 'we stood off and on during the night & in the morning'
(29 Jan 1823) Seeing the land to the south. Surveying the outer shore of the islan. John Forbes' travel journal, 1 Dec 1822-15 Mar 1823, in Mozambique, Madagascar, Comoro Islands and Quirimbas Islands. The journal ends mid-entry, and is continued in RHS/Col/3/1/7
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-81: Narrative of travel, 1 Dec 1822-16 Feb 1823
Pages 82-84: Blank
Pages 85-127: Narrative of travel, 16 Feb-15 Mar 1823
Pages 128-132: Blank
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled '5. Journal, December 1st 1822 to March 15th 1823'. Most of the spine has flaked away. The binding is reasonably robust but the front cover has a tear in it near the spine. Pages are reasonably robust. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 32 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm
From 12 Feb-15 Mar 1823 the journal appears to be a copy of RHS/Col/3/1/8, with annotations from the original incorporated. The remainder of RHS/Col/3/1/6 may have been copied from a version that does not survive
The volume is written in Forbes' hand, on rectos only. Annotated in pencil by Forbes (annotations by Forbes unless otherwise indicated), with occasional marginal and interlinear annotations, annotations on the blank verso pages, corrections and crossings out. The more substantial annotations have been included and identified in the description, whilst minor alterations of spelling or phrasing have not been noted
The journal contains headings by location
The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
The volume had a loose enclosure at page 101. This enclosure was removed for preservation purposes during cataloguing and stored with the volume in a separate folder:
Enclosure 1, originally enclosed at page 101: A loose slip of paper, perhaps torn from a letter
Summary of contents:
(1 Dec 1822) Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven] deciding to survey the coast near Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay, Mozambique] as far as St John's River [Mzimvubu River or Umzimvubu River, South Africa], the area having been left unsurveyed by the Barracouta. Sailing towards Madagascar, the varying, largely unfavourable, winds having prevented all but occasional surveying along the coast, where they had remained until 7 [Nov]
The coast, called by the Portuguese Terra dos Fumos [the coast around St Lucia, South Africa], in general low, but having a ridge of sand hills 100-700 feet high, having evidently been formed by sand blown up from the beach, and covered with shrubs or bare where exposed to winds. The 'general line of coast' with the hills running north-east and south-west. Reaching Cape St Lucia [South Africa], near a small river by the same name, located at latitude 28°24'00''S and longitude 23°24'00''E
Advancing southward near the mouth of Fisher's River [?Mdloti River or Tongati River, South Africa]: 'that which was taken for Fisher's River was not it, which we did not know until this coast', locating the river further down the coast and naming it Morley's Creek, after William Henry Morley [master on HMS Leven], who died of the fever and was buried beside it: 'this gentleman was very much esteemed, and in him Captain Owen lost an excellent officer & navigator'
The coastline running south-west towards the interior of the country, with a mountain ridge rising gradually from the coast at Point Durnford [Durnford Point, South Africa] ('so named after one of our young hydrographers [an officer appointed to delineate it, Edward Philip Durnford, midshipman on HMS Leven]) towards the west about eight leagues from the coastline. The mountain range then skirting the coast as far as St John's River [Mzimvubu River] at latitude 31°36'S and longitude 29°24'E. Other hills interposed occasionally between the mountains and the coast, varying in height, the first range 'from about two thousand to fifteen hundred feet, the others from three or four hundred upwards', gradually diminishing in size towards the shore. The country 'finely diversified with green herbage and wood', with apparently easy landing possibilities. The sand hills lower than those further north. The 'primitive earth' of red, sandy loam appearing similar to that around the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo, Mozambique]. Continuing to sail eastward to 53°E, 'having gone as far south as 32°' towards the island of St Mary's [Nosy Boraha, Madagascar] off the coast of Madagascar, reaching it on 21 Dec
(21 Dec 1822) Seeing very few birds during the passage. Seeing a tropic bird (Phaethon aethereus) on crossing the Tropic of Capricorn. Two flying fish (Exocoetus volitans) landing on board. Seeing one dolphin (Delphinus delphus) [Delphinus delphis] and one shoal of porpoises (Delphinus phocinus) [Delphinus phocaena] on 17 Dec. 'Being in the longitude in which we thought we might fall in with the homeward bound Indiamen [East India Company ships] and have an opportunity of forwarding letters', but passing no other vessels until seeing a brig in the distance on 20 Dec. Being unable to ascertain the colours hoisted [by the ship for identification], 'we were however concerned she was not an English vessel, and we also expected that we should have another means of forwarding them through the medium of the French resident at Madagascar'
The sea during the passage very smooth compared to the 'western ocean'. Light winds, with rain towards the evening. Anchoring off the south point of St Mary's Island [Nosy Boraha]. Since leaving Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], no one falling ill with fever, and those ill recovering
(22 Dec 1822) Almost becalmed in the morning. In the afternoon, a northerly wind 'kept us beating about in the channel' between St Mary's [Nosy Boraha] and Madagascar all day. St Mary's appearing low and thickly wooded. Madagascar appearing 'finely diversified' with hills and thickly wooded, 'with altogether a rich and beautiful appearance'. Anchoring in the evening in the channel. The weather very hot, with the temperature between 80 and 83 degrees
(23 Dec 1822) Sailing to anchorage off the French settlement on Quail Island [Ilot Madame, Madagascar], a small island at the mouth of a small 'finely formed harbour' with shallow water and coral reefs at the entrance. Anchoring at 3pm. William Owen, Captain Vidal [Alexander Vidal, first lieutenant, later captain of HMS Barracouta] and Lieutenant Mudge [William Mudge, first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta] going on shore to pay their respects to the French commandant
The French settlement being the third on the island, with the first settlement in the 17th century comprising 120 men, 'which were cut off and massacred by the natives' three months later, the French erecting a monument to their memory on a hill near the present settlement. The second settlement formed in 1745, being abandoned in 1761 'of their own accord, in consequence of the unhealthiness of the climate'. The present settlers having arrived in November 1821 ('one of the unhealthy months') losing 104 out of 240 people to fever during the first four months, including 'nearly all their females'. Many of the remaining settlers in poor health, 'I may say all appear much emaciated', but determined to remain for another year. 'The natives seem reconciled to them, perforce have offered them no molestation'
The soil a very rich loam and vegetable mould, with 'rich, luxuriant' vegetation, 'splendid' Urania speciosa [Ravenala madagascariensis], Barringtonia speciosa [Barringtonia asiatica] and different species of Terminalia, Theophrastia [?Chrysophyllum], Ixora, Hernandia and Pandanus [annotated in pencil: 'Urania speciosa & raffia [Raphia]] covering the island. Urania speciosa being the most common plant: 'an idea may be formed of its grandeur by these specimens of it in some of the hothouses in England', frequently reaching 30 feet, with leaves standing opposite each other, forming 'an immense fan'
(24 Dec 1822) Going on shore to collect specimens. Visiting the gardens of Monsieur Le Nore [unidentified], 'the French gardener and botanist'. The garden 'much in the English style', with several European vegetables and flowers. The climate being too hot for most of the vegetables, the gardeners having to protect them from the scorching sun by screens made of Urania [Ravenala] leaves, similar to lettuce protected from frost in England by straw screens. Kidney beans surviving well, but peas and beans or vegetables in the order Cruciferae not succeeding, and the climate probably being too hot for potatoes, but sweet potatoes (Convolvulus batatas) [Ipomoea batatas] a good substitute. Cassava (Jatropha manihot) [Manihot esculenta] ('very good'), edows (Arum esculentum) [eddoe, Colocasia antiquorum or taro, Colocasia esculenta] and yams (Dioscorea sativa) [Dioscorea villosa] being cultivated. Some cocoa nut [coconut] trees growing well. The garden containing some plants of the bread fruit tree (Artocarpus incisa) [Artocarpus altilis]. Banana and plantain growing, with the woods 'full of' pineapple ('very excellent'), mango (Mangifera indica and laxiflora) [Mangifera laxiflora, identification unresolved as at Jun 2018] and lime (Citrus limonia) [?rangpur]. 'Very excellent quality' rice growing
Seeing species of kidney bean, tobacco, sweet potato, cassava and Indian corn [flint corn] in the 'gardens of the natives'. Collecting specimens (specimens 1-15), seeds and living plants. Shooting a kingfisher (Alcedo coerulocephala) [?Alcedo coerulescens] (specimen 30). Returning on board the ship in the evening
(25 Dec 1822) Arranging specimens collected the previous day. Remaining on board due to pouring rain
(26 Dec 1822) Heavy rain in the morning. Collecting plants in the afternoon, finding new plants and making additions and improvements to the existing collection
(27 Dec 1822) Arranging specimens. Changing the paper of specimens. Disposal of the belongings of Captain Cutfield [William Cutfield, captain of HMS Barracouta] and William Henry Morley [who had both died of fever]. Seeing a shark (Squalus tigrinus) [Stegostoma fasciatum] near the ship and baiting it with a hook of 'stinking beef' thrown overboard, 'which he very soon took, it having been previously examined by his forerunner the pilot fish (Gusterosteus ductor) [Naucrates ductor]'. In order to get the shark on board, attaching a strong rope with a noose behind the pectoral fins: 'it then was as much as 30 men could do to hoist him in'. The 'monster' measuring 13 feet in length and six feet across, with five rows of teeth and a mouth 'sufficiently capacious to have taken in the body of middle sized man'. Seeing another shark and baiting it: 'in half an hour we had one at each gangway'. The second shark found to be a female with 40 young ones inside her, measuring eight feet in circumference. Finding in her stomach several shells, 'bullocks' legs & hoofs, heads & claws of fowls, bones, a basket that have been thrown overboard and numerous other delicate bits'. The shark being 'attended by' numerous young sharks, pilot fish and sucking fish (Echineis remora) [Remora remora]
(28 Dec 1822) Arranging specimens on board the ship. Changing specimen papers. Taking seeds and plants on shore in the afternoon. Collecting plants and specimens
(29 Dec 1822) Collecting plants and seeds. William Owen going up a small river running northward up the island and bringing back specimens of plants and seeds for Forbes. Receiving fine specimens of Plumeria and several capsules of Barringtonia speciosa [Barringtonia asiatica]. Landing on the south side of the harbour. Attempting to enter the woods, but being unable to penetrate the dense forest
(30 Dec 1822) William Owen inviting Forbes to go up the river he had travelled the previous day to collect plants, and providing Forbes with a boat. Leaving the ship at 8am. Going up a creek at the south-east corner of the harbour. After 200 yards, finding an elegant Echite (specimens 40, 31). Proceeding across the harbour, passing Timor Island [Ile aux Forbans, Madagascar], a beautiful small conical island in the middle of the harbour, covered with trees and 'placed as if on purpose to beautify this already pretty landscape'. Entering the river east of the French commandant's house at the foot of the monument hill. The entrance to the river about 20 yards wide, continuing at this width for four miles, then gradually narrowing until after a quarter of a mile it was only two yards wide. After two miles, the water becoming clear and fresh. Travelling about five miles up the river. The riverbanks low, the land flooding at high tide
Seeing 'some very fine scenery and vegetation is altogether luxurious & fine'. Not finding many new plants. The most common plants the 'magnificent Urania [Ravenala] and the 'splendid' Sagus raffia [Raphia vinifera]. The land rich and 'beautifully diversified'. Shooting an 'elegant little scarlet [bird]' (specimen 27) in a marsh at the head of the river. Seeing no local people. Up the river, landing on observing a 'great smoke' and seeing two huts, 'but the inhabitants we imagined had ran off and left them on hearing the discharge of our guns'. Fire being used to clear the woods: 'it grieved me to see the splendid trees' and plants falling in the fire. Changing specimen papers, arranging and drying specimens. Collecting more specimens in the afternoon
(1 Jan 1823) Collecting specimens, seeds and living plants. Giving 'the last' of the garden seeds brought from England to the French gardener, Monsieur Le Nore [unidentified]
(2 Jan 1823) Watering and supplies completed. Three men from the Barracouta running away 'from the watering party'. The ship being detained for two days to find them, and to hold 'a court of inquiry' for the deserters. Collecting a few more specimens and seeds
(3 Jan 1823) Going with Lieutenant Johnes [Edward Owen Johnes, lieutenant on HMS Leven and HMS Barracouta] in a boat to the south of the island to look for the men who had run away. Landing at a village and seeing a boat from the Barracouta, which had gone in search of the men with Lieutenant Boteler [Thomas Boteler, second lieutenant on HMS Leven and first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta], another officer and marines. Staying along the coast
Seeing villages along the shore, composed of 12 to 20 houses, about a mile from each other. The houses neat and in regular order, built from Urania speciosa [Ravenala] [annotated in a pencil: 'Ravenalia urania'], cut when green and dried in the sun. The houses oblong, with a room about 18 feet long and ten wide, with the floor raised off the ground six or eight inches, made of boards and covered with mats. The fireplace on the floor, usually in a corner, with racks for drying fish and beef over it, 'to neither of which they use any salt'. The furniture consisting of 'a number of neatly formed cases of mat-work, strengthened by the strong part of the leaves of the Urania, in which they keep their cloth, shells, fruit and other articles of traffic'. Numerous cushions used for 'laying their heads on or sitting on at pleasure; the former posture they generally prefer'. The plates for eating consisting of a piece of Urania leaf, wrapped up 'in a peculiar manner, so as to answer the noble purpose of spoon, cup and plate', from which rice is eaten and water drunk, 'which is the chief part of their food, with a little dried fish'. The people sleeping in a different place at night, in houses built on posts about four feet from the ground, divided into small apartments
Each house having a loover [louvre] attached for weaving cloth from the fibres of Sagus raffia [Raphia vinifera], 'although the process of manufacturing this article is not arrived at such a pitch as in Europe, it is performed on the same principle; they rise two treadles to cross the threads of the warp & instead of the shuttle being the same as the one used in weaving cotton, it is split at both ends onto which the weft is wound and by this means conveyed between the treads of the warp', using smooth pieces of hard wood instead of a reed to beat the threads together with. Weaving done by the women, in particular the married women or the mistress of the house, while the husbands were employed in fishing, cultivating the land or collecting fruit. The 'minor branches of the family' employed in preparing the thread for loom, cooking and making mats and garments of dungaree, with the labour being divided equally, and the 'weaker sex is not made the abject slave of the stronger'
The men's dress, 'if such it may be called', consisting of a cloth 'of their own manufacturing', wound around the loins worn with a 'square, flat, simple mat cap'. The women's dress made of dungaree [a type of cotton fabric], consisting of 'a light body to fit the bust and a petticoat with several yards of loose cloth, which they, when walking, either take under their arm or tie round the bodies'. In one of the villages seeing a pair of bellows, long and five inches in the bore with pistons filing into them, being worked in an upright position with horizontal pipes to convey the air to the fire. Seeing the people playing a game with 'an oblong piece of wood with 32 little holes or dishes, containing seeds of the nicker tree (Guilandina bonduc), 'which seemed to answer the purpose of the chess men in chess, in fact this game had altogether something the appearance of this noble game, only the movements of the two players were much quicker than the movements in that game generally are; I do not however suppose that these natives have any idea of that scientific game' [the game is probably a game called fanorona, indigenous to Madagascar]
The local people in general 'about the middle size, rather stout, particularly the men, the colour not so black as the natives of tropical Africa, is yet very dark. Their hair is not short and wool like the African, but is curled [annotated in pencil: 'crisped'] & long, the countenance of the men is in general a sneering contemptious [contemptuous] precious ferocious grin[?], and the women a sulky, sullen, discontented look, and although they seem pretty well reconciled to Europeans, yet I think it would be dangerous to trust them too far: their thirst for dollars and love of European manufactures is so great that I very much doubt whether it would be safe to mete[?] confidence in a people whose avarice and wants know no bounds, and whose uninformed and naturally savage ambitions and firecious [?ferocious] dispositions would lead them to commit any crime however horrable [horrible] or treacherous to satisfy their unbounded lust. We were not able to discover any thing like religion among them, but our short stay did not give us time to find out anything of this kind or anything particular of their history. They are armed with long spears and there are numbers of firearms among them. [...] they are tolerable navigators in canoes and large open boats, as their neighbours of the Comora Islands [Comoro Islands, Union of the Comoros] have frequently experienced. They are very fond of bartering and selling their fruit, rice, vegetables, cloth, or shells, in fact anything they have, they will part with for Spanish dollars & rupees, which they value more than anything else. They [are] also fond of dungarees, iron or iron hoop, or strong cuttling, especially large clasp knives. Beads, buttons and suchlike useless trinkets, they set little or no value on, they like something more substantial & useful. You pay a dollar for 4 fowls, the same for one goosy [goose], two Muscovy ducks, a piece of cloth, a mat basket & a dollar & half for a bag of rice, in fact everything is valued by the dollar. They are hard to bargain with and frequently ask much more than the article is really worth'
Hearing that the men they were searching for had been at a village the previous day, but had retreated to the interior of the island. Thomas Boteler offering six dollars for each man. A man the fugitives were staying with coming forward within an hour and offering to take the searchers to his house. The search party finding them asleep, bringing them to the boats. Returning to the ship about 7pm. Shooting several birds during the day (specimens 23-26). Collecting several seeds and 'some good plants' of Ephendendrum [Epidendrum] ('No 2 of No 2 large flint glass jar')
(4 Jan 1823) A court inquiry being held for the deserters and punishment inflicted 'according to the different degrees & natures of their several offences'. Having no communication with the shore. Expecting to sail the following morning, arranging the cabin for sailing
(5 Jan 1823) Winds too light for sailing. Going on shore in the afternoon to collect specimens of rocks and seeds
(6 Jan 1823) Weighing anchor in the morning. Sailing up the channel. Light, northerly winds and southerly currents preventing sailing. Anchoring in the channel by the French fort at nightfall
(7 Jan 1823) Weighing anchor in the morning. Encountering the same obstacles as the previous day. With a fresh northerly breeze at noon, William Owen altering the course and steering towards the south-east, to catch the north-east monsoon in order to get round Cape Ambre [Cap d'Ambre, Madagascar]
(10 Jan 1823) Steering towards the north, the winds becoming more favourable. Seeing heavy rain every afternoon during the time in Saint Mary's Road [Nosy Boraha, Madagascar], with lightning over Madagascar
(12 Jan 1823) Latitude 15°12'S and longitude 52°40'E. Experiencing 'that kind of weather generally met with in these latitudes', including sudden squalls, with sudden changes in the winds and heavy rain
(15 Jan 1823) Latitude between 12°34'S and 11°23'S and longitude between 51°36'E and 50°16'E between 15 and 18 Jan. Light winds, the ship at times becalmed. The sea smooth 'as a sheet of ice, with little or no swell'. Seeing several sharks (Squalus leginus) [unidentified] and some dolphins (Coryphana hippurus) [mahi-mahi, Coryphaena hippurus] around the ship, but neither taking bait thrown. Seeing several flocks of birds, believing them to be the lesser gannet (Pelecanus piscator) [?red-footed booby, Sula sula], flying from the north-east in an almost straight line, occasionally darting down for food, flying in a very different manner from albatrosses or petrels. The latter birds frequently following ships, in the hope of food being thrown overboard. Both albatrosses and petrels having been known to follow ships from the Atlantic in 20°W and 26°S to the tropics on the eastern side of Africa in 36°E, or about 1,300 leagues. Seeing an occasional sooty petrel (Procellaria gricea) [sooty shearwater, Ardenna grisea], flying gracefully over the sea. The atmosphere very clear, the sea imposing, 'more from its extent and smoothness, than from the vanity or beauty of the objects', beautiful by moonlight, with light reflected on the surface of the water
On 15 Jan, meeting a small brig from Mauritius [Republic of Mauritius], bound for the Amirante or Seychelle Islands [Amirante Islands, Republic of Seychelles]
(22 Jan 1823) [Arriving at Johanna [Anjouan, Union of the Comoros]] The low beach with heavy surf making landing difficult. Being met by a pilot in a canoe with outriggers. The locals having 'formed a kind of breakwater under the lee' for small boats and canoes to land, particularly during the south-west monsoon, with the bay being well sheltered. The boat being so long, being worried in case it could not turn around the breakwater, the latter being parallel with the coast and the passage narrow, causing a vessel unable to turn around quickly enough to be struck and damaged by the sea. Boarding the canoe 'with such things as I wished to take with me', the canoes appearing stable with the outriggers and unlikely to capsize, although the one boarded by Forbes 'was quite filled with water'. The boat from the Barracouta landing safely, being much shorter. The local people placing a red and yellow flag at the end point of the breakwater, around which vessels had to navigate
The beach 'covered with natives, who set up a loud shout on our landing'. Being welcomed in English, 'with the compliments 'how do you do', 'I hope you are very well' etc'. Being asked questions about the ship and where they had come from, 'and especially how King George [George IV] their friend was, with many wishes for his health, and if there was any news from the Europe'. Informing the people that they were visiting in order 'to leave the box for Prince Alie [Ali bin Salim, prince of Ndzuwani [Anjouan, the Union of the Comoros]], and the parcel for Mr Elliot [William Elliott, British missionary and plant collector], who they told us had left them six months before', and wishing to purchase stock, such as fowls, kids, vegetables and fruit. Being taken to the palace for an audience with the sultan, 'Allahway [Abdallah II bin Alawi, sultan of Ndzuwani] I believe is his name', 'to inform him before anything could be procured which we wanted'
The road from the beach to the palace being 'up what are here called streets, but in an English town would be considered dirty alleys'. Arriving at the door of the palace, having to wait for a few minutes before being announced, His Majesty preparing to see them. Ascending a flight of stone steps to an audience chamber, 'a duly singular room', about 12 feet square, with the chair of state, a table covered with green baize and benches on each side covered with silk for them and the ministers to sit on. The sultan entering from the opposite corner of the room: 'we made our best bows to him, which he several times graciously returned'. The sultan dressed in robes of scarlet cloth trimmed with gold lace, wearing a crown and carrying a richly ornamented Turkish sword instead of a sceptre: 'in person he [was] rather below the middle size, inclined to corpulence, about 55 or 56 years of age as near as we could guess'. The sultan, after taking his seat, asking his visitors through his interpreters the same questions and giving the same compliments they had been greeted with on landing. The sultan's son, Prince Ali ('an interesting young man') and the ministers of state taking their seats. Being given glasses of coconut water, 'in which we of course drank His Majesty's health'. Proceeding to business, reading the letters they had brought, 'along with numerous other papers, certificates etc'. The box they had brought being opened, containing 'wearing apparel, trinkets etc for Princess Alie [unidentified] from the Cape [Cape of Good Hope, South Africa], of which place she was a native. They informed us she was dead some time ago'. The chief interpreter, who had accompanied them from the beach (he 'called himself Admal Roddins, or as we interpreted it, Admiral Rodney, for there are many of them who have assumed high English titles'), informing them that the king had granted them permission to have anything they wanted: 'if we would give him the money, and tell him how many dollars' worth of each article we wanted, he would undertake to supply us with them'
Prince Ali asking them to accompany him to his house, 'some distance' from the palace and 'much more pleasantly situated, and the apartments much neater and more elegantly fitted up & furnished'. Being given sweetmeats, coconut milk and a garland of flowers each. Being shown several letters written by captains of different vessels which had visited, praising the attention and civility of the king [crossed out: 'had been graciously pleased to grant permission for us to have anything we would'] and his subjects, 'likewise the Pilot Duks Charles's certificate book, in which his services are acknowledged, and the money (four Spanish dollars) paid him for piloting each ship to their anchorage'. Returning to the beach to see the boat being loaded with purchased items. The Prince accompanying them to the beach with 'scores of his subjects, who had never lost sight of us from our first landing'. Finding the beach covered with fowls, kids, fruits and other items purchased by Admal Roddins
Having difficulty bringing everything on board the ship. Seeing a storm approaching and hurrying to get on board before the heavy surf and sea made it difficult. Edward Durnford, having returned earlier on the Leven boat, leaving Forbes to get on board from the Barracouta. William Owen having allowed 20 minutes for boarding, 'but much more than this time had now elapsed'. Leaving the shore laded with fowls and fruit, 'amid the shouts of the natives and I believe with their best wishes for our success'
Mr Horsburgh [James Horsburgh, Scottish hydrographer and the author of the navigation guide 'Directions for Sailing to and from the East Indies, China, New Holland, Cape of Good Hope, and the interjacent Ports, compiled chiefly from original Journals and Observations made during 21 years' experience in navigating those Seas', also known as the 'India directory', first published in 1817] measuring the latitude of the anchorage as 12°7.5S and the longitude as 44°30E: 'we made it in 44°5 by observations and chronometer, thus we differ from him 15 miles more to the westward'. This island and the rest of the Comor Islands [Comoro Islands] mountainous and of volcanic origin, 'or have at some remote period been under the influence of fire'. Staying only a few minutes, being unable to observe much, but from the materials of buildings and fragments on the beach, being certain of their origin: 'this idea can not have escaped the observation of anyone that has before visited these islands and paid the least attention to their geological structure'. Similar to the Canaries [Canary Islands, Spain] or Cape de Verd [Cabo Verde] on the opposite coast of Africa, although 'more luxuriant and fruitful'. The islands' importance for vessels from England bound for Bombay [Mumbai, India], the Malabar Coast [India], the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf, 'or what is called the inner passage to India' during the south-west monsoon, when it is possible to anchor safely at Johanna [Anjouan] and procure abundant water and 'excellent refreshments at moderate price'. The islands not appearing unhealthy, but being informed they are 'very much so'. A party of men having died some time ago after working on shore from a ship called the Victor, a sloop of war, with those sleeping on board surviving
The present inhabitants of the islands not aboriginal to the islands, 'but a mixture of Arab Moor and African, but by far the greater part of the former, for [in] very few of the faces we saw was there any traces of either the Madagass or African, except some negros, that are slaves. Their religion is Mahometan [Islam], and they are all subject to a sultan, who resides at Johanna. They are tolerably well armed with muskets and have some cannons, which by the by are almost useless through neglect. Their only enemies are the Madagasses, who come over in swarms in their canoes and commit horrible ravages and plunder; they have not been visited by their marauders for some years owing to the influence of the English with King Radam of Madagascar [Radama I, king of Madagascar]. They also use bows and arrows as well as muskets, but I believe they are very poor warriors, and seem much more disposed to live at home and enjoy the blessings of peace and trade than enter into a conflict in which nothing they wish for is to be gained, and in which they may be severe sufferers, as they have been heretofore by only acting on the defensive'
(23 Jan 1823) Light winds. In sight of Johanna [Anjouan], the Great Comora [Grande Comore, Union of the Comoros] and Mohella [Moheli, Union of the Comoros]. Steering towards the north-west. Passing between the last-mentioned islands in the night
(24 Jan 1823) Very light but contrary winds. At sunset, being four or five leagues from the Great Comora [Grande Comore]. The island seeming almost like one large mountain, with an even surface sloping gradually down to the sea. Estimating the height as 7,000 or 8,000 feet above the sea. Catching a shark with a harpoon from the stern of the ship. The blue shark (Squalus glaucus) [Prionace glauca] measuring ten feet in length, a different species from the ones caught previously
(28 Jan 1823) Seeing land ahead before sunset, having been almost becalmed for four days. The log showing them to have proceeded about 90 miles, having been carried by the current from the Great Comora [Grande Comore] at latitude 43°50'E to 41°07'00'E, for 70 miles by the current at a pace of one mile an hour. Reaching the Island of Wood or Ilhia dos Matos [unidentified, Quirimbas Islands]: 'we stood off and on during the night & in the morning'
(29 Jan 1823) Seeing the land to the south. Surveying the outer shore of the islan
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