Journals of John Forbes: Journal 5
Information
Title - Journals of John Forbes: Journal 5
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/3/1/5
Date - 6 Sep-30 Nov 1822
Scope & content - John Forbes' travel journal, 6 Sep-30 Nov 1822, in South Africa and Mozambique. The back of the volume records notes on the vegetation and language in Mozambique
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-103: Narrative of travel, 6 Sep-30 Nov 1822
Page 104: Blank
Pages 105-111: 'Some remarks on the soil and vegetable productions of Delagoa Bay and adjacent country'
Page 112: Blank
Pages 113-119: 'Vocabulary of the language spoken by the Natives about the English River, Temby and the adjacent countries near Delagoa Bay'
Pages 120-124: Blank
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled '4. Journal, September 6th to November 30th 1822'. Parts of the spine missing. The binding is reasonably robust but the front cover is splitting from the spine at lower edge. Pages are reasonably robust. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 31.5 (h) x 20 (w) cm
From 12 Sep-30 Nov 1822 the journal appears to be a copy of RHS/Col/3/1/6, with annotations from the original incorporated. Entries for 6 Sep-11 Sep are also found at the end of RHS/Col/3/1/6
The text was copied in several hands and written on rectos only. Note at the front: 'Mr Forbes' journal, corrected for copying'. Annotated in pencil by William Owen, captain of HMS Leven (annotations by Owen, unless otherwise indicated), in preparation for the publication of his version of the journey. Annotations include marginal and interlinear annotations, annotations on the blank verso pages, corrections and crossings out. The more substantial annotations have been included and identified in the description, whilst minor alterations of spelling or phrasing have not been noted
The journal contains headings by location
The back of the volume contains notes on the vegetation and language in Mozambique
The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Summary of contents:
(6 Sep 1822) Packing plants in three boxes. Wrapping roots tight in moss and setting the plants upright in the boxes, the boxes about a foot square, open at the top, covered with four bars of wood instead of a lid to admit air and protect the plants. Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven] going into Cape Town [South Africa] to rig the tender Cockburn
(7-10 Sep 1822) Arranging and packing specimens of plants collected in Rio [Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] and those collected at the Cape [Cape of Good Hope, South Africa] sufficiently dry for sending. William Owen returning from Cape Town on 9 Sep
(11 Sep 1822) Packing two cases with specimens, with joints and cracks pitched up to prevent moisture from entering. Three boxes arriving of loquat and orange plants and vine cuttings from Mr van Renen [Dirk Gysbert van Reenen], to take to Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay, Mozambique]. Taking them to the observatory. Writing letters to England. Preparing for the journey
(12 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor and sailing from Simon's Bay [South Africa] at dawn. Passing an Indiaman [East India Company ship], whose last stop had been Madeira [Portugal], but carrying no letters for them. Seeing pintados (Procellaria capensis) [Cape petrel, Daption capense] ('our old companions') and albatrosses (Diomedea exulans). Passing Cape Hangclip [Cape Hangklip, South Africa], forming the entrance into False Bay [South Africa], together with the Cape of Good Hope. Passing Point Danger [Danger Point, South Africa] and Cape L'Agullas [Cape Agulhas, South Africa] at sunset. The coast barren and uninhabited, and 'does not present a single place for even a boat to land' ['does not [...] to land' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'not more than one or two places where establishments could well be formed']. Leaving the Cockburn to proceed to Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], intending to join it there. A fine breeze
(13 Sep 1822) Fine weather with a light breeze. Steering towards Algoa Bay [South Africa]. The land on the left low and barren [annotated: 'near the shore, with a high mountain range in the interior']: 'from the distance we were from it we were not able to judge of its qualities'. Little vegetation. The ship only proceeding four knots the whole day
(14 Sep 1822) The ship going at a rate of seven and a half knots with increased winds. The weather cloudy with occasional rain. Passing Cape Vaches [?Vleesbai, South Africa] and Cape St Francis [South Africa]. The land west of Cape St Francis greener, with a ridge of 'tolerably high hills' at some distance from the shore, and below, the land known as flats ('tracts of land that have a tolerably even surface, and partially flooded in the winter season'). Seeing some trees and bushes on them. The flats offering no shelter for shipping or boats [annotated: 'except immediately to the eastward of Cape St Francis, which is the southern point of this part of the coast in latitude 34°10'S, where there is a fine bay, but little inferior to Algoa Bay, & certainly a good situation for a coast establishment both for fishing and commerce']. 'Sounding [measuring the depth of water] and taking angles frequently'
(15 Sep 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Recife [South Africa] at the entrance to Algoa Bay. The country towards the south-west [crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'westward'] seeming fertile, with some cultivation. Light winds. Anchoring off Port Elizabeth [South Africa] at 4pm. The country low and flat, with sandy soil near the coast. Mr Vidal [Alexander Vidal, first lieutenant, later captain, of HMS Barracouta] going on shore to take observations [the following crossed out in pencil: 'Too late for plant collecting, remaining on board until the following morning']
(16 Sep 1822) Everyone anxious to go on shore to see the new settlement 'that had made so much noise in England'. Expecting to find plants not found further south ['further to the south' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'at the Cape [Cape of Good Hope]']. Not being disappointed: finding 80 or 90 new plants during their 48-hour stay. The colony new, with about 30 houses, and more being built. The land not good, being sand or poor sandy loam full of stones. Being told the land further inland was better: 'this place must depend chiefly on the shipping that touch at it for its future prosperity'
Landing difficult due to heavy surf, and having to use government-provided surf boats 'of a peculiar construction', flat-bottomed, deep, strong, and square at the ends, being hauled through the surf with a rope fastened to an anchor and on shore: 'by these boats communication with vessels can be effected almost at any time, when it would be impossible for common boats to attempt a landing' [annotated: 'there was a party of Deal men lately settled here, who with whale boats both landed & put out when the surf boats could not do so']
Going on shore and discovering that Alexander Vidal was staying at the house of the commandant, Captain Evatt [Francis Evatt, commandant of Fort Frederick, South Africa] [annotated: 'a veteran']. Forbes being offered space in the house for arranging specimens, and men to accompany him on collecting expeditions. Making a short excursion around the town with Francis Evatt and William Owen
Finding a number of plants on a bank overhanging a pool of water, south-west of the landing place [annotated: 'which is the reservoir of certain pebbly streamlets barred at the beach by a bank, almost dry at low water. As the tides flowed into this, the water was of course brackish. This was an epitome of all the ruins on this coast. In the rains its bar is swept away by the floods from the land side, and in the dry season it is blocked by the sea winds & surf beating up the sand against it']. Owen discovering an orchideous plant (specimen 8) ('very elegant'). Finding several of them, with bulbs shallow in the ground, scarcely covered by earth, only by light mould and decayed leaves. Putting the plants in paper. Going out to collect more plants accompanied by two men, wishing to acquire better specimens, as many collected earlier 'were much eaten by the cattle and otherwise stunted ['stunted' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'mutilated']. Finding several beautiful plants in the valley (specimens 62, 63, 66, 67, 75, 76, 78, 91 and 94)
Arriving at a Dutch boor's [boer or farmer] house two miles up the valley. Seeing a hut in the garden, made of a species of Typha growing in the brook, with a fire in the middle on the ground: 'on one side was seated an elderly Hottentot [Khoikhoi] with a sheep's skin thrown carelessly over his shoulders and a piece of coarse linen that just concealed his nakedness. On the other side was seated his daughter, a young woman of about 24 years of age, with one child at the breast and another standing beside her. Her dress consisted of a petticoat and a broadish strip of cloth to fasten the infant on her projecting posterior when she walked'. The hut about nine feet long and seven broad: 'in this small space frequently 12 or 14 adults and five or six children sleep'
Turning left from the hut to go into the flat. Seeing several beautiful plants. Finding four of 'the most beautiful orchids I had seen' (specimens 56, 57, 58 and 59) on the return journey after sunset. Having seen some of specimen 56 near the hut visited earlier, and some near Cape Point [South Africa], but not in flower. Finding specimen 101 in flower, having seen it previously near Simon's Bay but not in blossom. Collecting several to plant in soil in boxes on board the ship 'in order to make specimens of them'. Not having seen specimens 57 and 58 previously: 'the last one is peculiarly handsome'. All growing in a sandy, heathy soil. William Owen proposing sailing the following afternoon. Writing letters. Latitude of Port Elizabeth 33°58'00''S, longitude east of Simon's Bay 7°12'E, or 25°44'30''E ['44' crossed out in pencil and replaced with '25.33.30'] east of Greenwich
(17 Sep 1822) Going on board in the morning to bring seeds on shore ('an article much wanted at this place'). Leaving behind some loquats (Mespilus japonicus) [Eriobotrya japonica] brought from the Cape [Cape of Good Hope], that 'excellent fruit tree' not previously found at Port Elizabeth. Seeing the sea breaking over rocks at the entrance to the bay, having been informed of their existence by Francis Evatt [annotated: 'the sea breaking on what was certainly shore water, but the ship, in passing out to sea, went over the spot as she could without finding any indication of shore water, but as the particular examination of this part was not included in the captain's orders, he was too anxious to get on his own ground to lose more time here']. Alexander Vidal measuring the distance from Port Elizabeth, sending an officer to the Point [?Cape Recife, South Africa] to observe: 'it bore south-east and east from the commandant's house [annotated: 'by compass variation 30°W']
Arranging plants collected the previous day. Vidal taking 'observations of the sun, to correspond with those taken in the morning'. Supplies of fresh beef, vegetables and butter sent on board. Going on board the ship at sunset. 'I must observe that we had much more civility and kindness shown us here by the commandant [Francis Evatt] and officers stationed at this place, than we met with at Simon's Town [South Africa], and I believe one left it with more regret and desire to return, than they did to the other place'
(18 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor and sailing from Port Elizabeth with a 'pretty stiff breeze'. Passing a considerable distance along the coast. Taking the bearings of the headlands and making sketches of the coast. A strong south-easterly current around Cape L'Agullas [Cape Agulhas]
(19 Sep 1822) Cloudy with some rain. The winds light in the evening. No land in sight. Arranging specimens and putting them into fresh paper. At 10pm, 'tried temperature of sea by Dr Marcet's water bottle [Alexander Marcet invented a bottle for retrieving samples of seawater]', measuring temperatures of 68° at 5-30 fathoms, 67° at the surface, 61° in the open air and 66° in the fore cabin. Latitude 32°52'S, longitude 9°56' by 'dead reckoning' [the process of calculating one's current position by using a previously determined position, or fix, and advancing that position based on known or estimated speeds over elapsed time and course]
(20 Sep 1822) 'Nothing particular occurred today'. Passing the first point of Natal [KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa]. Arranging specimens, 'which is and must always be done with considerable inconvenience on board ship. The motion of the vessel, want of room, light etc, and if taken on deck the wind will probably blow some of them away'
(21 Sep 1822) Seeing the 'bluff table land' at the entrance to St John's River [Mzimvubu River, South Africa]. The land 'very singular', with lofty table hills on each side unlike anything else on the journey from Simon's Bay. In the afternoon, sounding [measuring the depth of water], taking the bearings and sketching the land. Seeing several whales. A fine day with smooth sea, 'current S37 W34 miles'. In the evening, seeing a fire on the hill near the mouth of the river. Latitude 32°01'S, longitude 11°31'40''E of Simon's Bay
(22 Sep 1822) Making little progress. The winds very light, 'current S51 W47 miles'. The sea smooth, the day fine. The wind increasing after sunset. At midnight going at a rate of nine knots. Changing specimen papers. Latitude 32°24'17'', longitude 11°30'10''E of Simon's Town
(23 Sep 1822) Fine weather with a fair wind. No land in sight. No current. Several birds around the ship's stern, including albatrosses (Diomedea exulans) and three or four species of petrels (Procellaria). Seeing stormy petrels (Procellaria pelagica) [?Hydrobates pelagicus], having only seen one previously on the journey from Rio de Janeiro to the Cape of Good Hope. Latitude 31°41'29'', longitude 14°35'00''
[Annotated between the entries: '(25 Sep) Arrived in the latitude of Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay] but the weather being very thick, remained in the offing until the']
(27 Sep 1822) Coming in sight of Cape St Mary's [Cape Santa Maria, Ilha da Inhaca, Mozambique], left of the entrance into Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], about five leagues away. Anchoring at Delagoa Bay. Seeing two whalers from London anchored by the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo, Mozambique]. The masters [naval officers responsible for navigation] of both coming on board the ship in the evening, giving William Owen advice regarding the bay and anchoring. The bay extensive, the shoreline low and sandy near the entrance. The mean width of the bay about 21 miles. The distance from Cape St Mary's to the anchorage in the English River about 20 miles
(28 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor at 1am. Anchoring in the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo] off the Portuguese fort at 4am. Going on shore after breakfast with Charles Lechmere [Charles Lechmere, apparently accompanying Captain William Owen on HMS Leven to study hydrography] and Alexander Vidal to the Portuguese fort to pay respects to the Portuguese commandant [Jacques Casimir, commander of the Portuguese fort in Mozambique] and to deliver letters and newspapers from Rio de Janeiro to him
'The Portuguese establishment here is very insignificant, no regular governor, only an acting commandant for the time being'. The rest of the Portuguese population, 50 or 60 people including the soldiers, being 'convicts and delinquents, who have violated the laws of their country'. The fort consisting of six or eight [annotated: 'small'] pieces of corroded and rusted ordinance [ordnance, military equipment], with the exterior 'mouldering and falling away'. The interior in better condition, but 'altogether incapable of making any defence in case of an attack'. The commandant treating them with politeness [the following crossed out in pencil: 'It was perhaps partly through fear at seeing a British Man of War so close under the walls of his miserable fort']. Having difficulty explaining the purpose of their visit, despite letters brought by William Owen and explanations by the 'linguist', Mr Philipps [George Phillips, interpreter, who joined the ship in Portugal]
Going along the beach to look at the watering place for ships east of the fort [annotated: 'where wells are dug in the beach under the eastly [easterly] cliffs']. Proceeding a little further to search for a place to pitch a tent and take observations, 'as some inconvenience would have attended our building a hut on Reuben Point [Ponta Vermelha, Mozambique], as was Captain Owen's [William Owen] original wish and intention'
Due to the distance from the ship and the watering place, as well as 'our utter unacquaintance with the dispositions of the inhabitants whose languages we did not understand', Alexander Vidal asking William Owen to obtain a room at the Portuguese fort for storing the astronomical instruments and for taking observations from. Jacques Casimir giving a large house for their use, the residence of the previous governor, with an enclosed garden
Most ['most' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'some'] of the land cultivated. Seeing 'nothing but the female part of the natives at work', sowing Indian corn (Zea mays) [flint corn] and pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo). Seeing very few vegetables and fruits, it being the beginning of the rainy season, with trees coming to leaf and bloom. The soil a very dry, sharp, red sand with loam. Seeing numerous 'inhabitants', with houses built of reeds in a circular form, about 12 or 15 feet in circumference, with a roof 'not unlike an umbrella'. Going on board the ship in the evening
(29 Sep 1822) [The following entry crossed out in pencil: 'Taking the instruments for observation, beds and other 'necessaries' on shore. Arranging the accommodation. William Owen and most of the officers coming on shore in the afternoon']
(30 Sep 1822) [The following entry crossed out in pencil: 'Bringing the remainder of the baggage to the observatory [the governor's house]. Going out with Charles Lechmere to the other side of the village to find out which plants were in blossom and where to find the best specimens']. Shooting several birds. Seeing several antelopes, but not managing to shoot any. The birds (specimen 4) living among the oxen, 'frequently five or six of them on one beast, eating the insects off them' (Buphaga africana) [Buphagus africanus]. Starting to dig the garden of the observatory, putting in dung from two cattle kraals or folds, 'which had been neglected both by the natives and Portuguese'
(1 Oct 1822) Planting vines brought from the Cape [Cape of Good Hope], 'I believe the first ever planted on this colony', vines having been introduced previously by the Portuguese, but, 'either through mismanagement, climate, soil, or local situation' not succeeding
Going out with Charles Lechmere to a freshwater lake [annotated: 'called Moonyana [unidentified]'] north of the observatory. The lake about three quarters of a mile long and half a mile broad. Seeing several Hippopotamus amphibius, coming occasionally to the surface, snorting, and going down again. Shooting birds including ducks, geese, wigeons, two species of Jacana (Parra africana) [Actophilornis africanus] (specimens 14-16) and several birds of the order Grallae
Seeing fence of stakes and bushes around the lake, with openings for the hippopotamus to go through at night to feed, set with traps, with a tree or a large bough 15-20 feet high placed near, a heavy piece of wood suspended from the top by a climbing plant instead of a cord, and the iron of a hassegay [assagai] or spear fixed at the lower end of the piece of wood, wrapped in grass or rushes. The cord suspended across the path of the animals, who, on breaking it, bring down the log and the spear: 'the log of wood is merely to drive the spear in. From this wound he bleeds freely and returns enraged to the water where he dies. The carcass is washed upon the beach in a few days, when the natives are on the look out to take out the teeth for barter', and cut up the flesh for food, 'of which they are very fond'
Seeing very few plants and trees in flower, but expecting the rainy season to bring them into bloom within a week or 10 days. The soil near the lake good, with the water supply being taken advantage of to cultivate Indian corn (Zea mays) [flint corn], rice (Oryza sativa), sweet potatoes (Convolvulus batata) [Ipomoea batatas], pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo) and 'some degenerate kinds of onions'. The water excellent, tasting better than near the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo]. All the agricultural labour being performed by the women, 'which ['which' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'who'] in this, as well as in every other respect, are the abject slaves of the men'
(2 Oct 1822) Collecting plants near the observatory. Going on board the ship to arrange joining the boats to survey the river above Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay] with Alexander Vidal and Charles Lechmere
(3 Oct 1822) Taking baggage on board the Troughton cutter. Sailing from HMS Leven in the afternoon accompanied by three other boats, the Hardy, the Hurd and the Cockburn, with Alexander Vidal commanding the expedition. Forbes travelling on the Troughton, the largest boat, with Charles Lechmere up the left hand bank, Vidal's boat travelling on the right and the two others in the centre. The river widening [annotated: 'into an extensive bason'] but the water shallow and the banks low. The land nearby flooding at spring tide and the rainy season. The only trees on the banks mangrove (Rhizophora). Seeing several Grallae birds on the banks and large flocks of flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber) in the shoals of the river
Camping on an island at the junction of three rivers. Calling it the Refuge Island, 'on observing that great numbers of the inhabitants had taken 'refuge' there as a safe retreat from the Hollontontes or Vatuas [annotated: 'or Zoolos']. Seeing various birds roosting in the trees near the camp. Going out in the moonlight to shoot a couple, 'which were both spoiled for skinning by falling in the mud and bleeding, their plumage being the most delicate white'. Being troubled by mosquitoes at night, keeping them away with large fires
(4 Oct 1822) Collecting 'all the plants within reach', consisting of three species of mangroves (Rhizophora). Shooting a bird of the order Picae. Open boats being 'awkward' places for skinning birds or arranging specimens, getting wet with spray, blowing away with the wind or being knocked into the bottom of the boat among the water by the sailors, 'who [annotated: 'perhaps'] consider every thing of this kind as useless lumber and would rather destroy them than not ['and would rather…' crossed out and replaced with 'or trifling']'
Proceeding up the northern branch of the river. Near the next junction, about one and a half miles up, seeing the first Hippopotamus coming to the surface, blowing and snorting 'like a whale' and then descending again. One branch of the river [annotated: 'the Mattol [Matola River, Mozambique]'] going north, the other [annotated: 'the Temby [Tembe River, Mozambique]'] north-north-west. Seeing 'groups of natives' on the banks: 'they are the same nation as those at the anchorage in English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo], all subjects of the king of Matola [corrected in pencil: 'Mattol [?Machekane, king of Matola or Matsolo]']. They appeared a good deal astonished at seeing our boats'
Further up the river, the scenery and country more diverse, with a greater variety of plants: 'I passed by numbers with great reluctance, although by far the greatest number were neither in flower nor fruit'. Seeing many hippopotamuses. Shooting one and wounding it: 'it seemed inclined to attack the boat, but seeing such a number of us with muskets [crossed out in pencil: '(which by the bye would not one of them go off)'], it made a tremendous rush past the boat into deep water'. At 4pm, not being able to proceed on the boats with only two feet of water with the tide out and the width of the river 32 feet. Turning back and returning four or five miles down the river to encamp. Being caught in a heavy thunder storm: 'all our baggage & ourselves wet'
Shooting an old vulture and taking two young ones from a nest built in a tree. Seeing numerous vultures, but not having time to stop for them or any other birds. The country fine, with rich, deep soil. The spring tide overflowing the riverbanks, producing an abundance of reeds, including Arundo and 'other coarse Gramineae' in the rainy season. The hippopotamuses feeding on these and, if not available, on the Indian corn [flint corn] and rice 'of the poor natives'. The water salty. Not seeing any tributary streams
(5 Oct 1822) Parties sent to search for water at dawn but without success. Finding two beautiful plants (specimens 32 and 33), the only ones in flower. Sowing seeds of mustard, cress, cabbage and turnip and planting vines and loquats. Two boats sent off to search for locals to enquire about water, 'among which was one of King Mataul's [?Machekane] secretaries of state, a sable [black] gentleman without a stitch of clothes on him, but a greater share of ornaments than his less favoured companions. But what was the greatest mark of destination was that he had the privilege of carrying a Portuguese musket, of 100 years old, which was a sufficient passport for him wherever he went'. The gentleman offering to show them water for a few leaves of tobacco: 'this enormous fee we very willingly paid'. About half a mile down the river, landing among 'a number of natives' and finding excellent water
Finding a beautiful orchideous plant (specimen 34). The locals having nothing else to barter but their 'hassegays [assagai] and spears, which they paid with for buttons, beads, knives, handkerchiefs, tobacco etc. For one of the small common gilt Jew's[?] looking glasses, one of the gentlemen obtained one of their best spears and two hassegays. They were highly amused and gaped and stared [annotated: 'at their reflection'] like idiots at this trinket ['at this trinket' crossed out in pencil']'
Temperature at 6am 65°, at 10am 76° and at 11am in the sun 110°. Leaving the river at 11am. Alexander Vidal landing at noon at Refuge Island, the previous camping place, to 'get the meridian observation of the sun for latitude'. The boats proceeding up to survey the southern river [annotated: 'Temby [Tembe River]'], the largest branch of English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo]. The land on the right bank low, covered with mangroves, and the trees on the left side more varied, with deep, sharp, red loam. The river half a mile wide, with five or six fathoms of water at three quarters flow of the tide
Landing in King Kapell's dominion [King Kapell had recently died, with his son Mayeta succeeding him as ruler of Tembe] at 4.30pm. Pitching tents. Vegetables cultivated including Indian corn [flint corn], rice, sweet potatoes (Convolvolus batata) [Ipomoea batatas], pumpkins and the mackquaqua fruit [annotated: 'or calabash [?Crescentia cujete]'] [annotated: 'also cabbages, onions and tomatos are in great abundance, and all apparently indigenous. Just within the beach we found a species of the former as a creeper. The onions were of the shallot kind of two sorts & very fine. They kept on board good for near a year']. The calabash being eaten everywhere in the country, forming in the season 'a considerable article of food of these wretched people, who are rendered even more miserable and unhappy by seeing our clothes, buttons and other luxuries'
The locals making 'sad complaints' of having been robbed and plundered by 'the Hollontontos, a tribe from the south-west ['a tribe from the south-west' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'or Zoolos']'. At midnight, observing three signal rockets from the ships bearing north-east. Responding with two. Being annoyed at having people approaching the tents, 'but the rockets we let off and the vigilant watch we kept all night prevented their coming within a considerable distance' [annotated: 'for it was our practice to have one third of our party under arms and on watch all night, an extremely necessary precaution, however disagreeable after a day of fatigue in such a climate']
(6 Oct 1822) Sailing from the encampment. Temperature 75° in the shade. Seeing mangrove trees on the riverbanks. 'More natives than on any previous day'. Seeing many birds of the order Grallae: 'the boats were so busily employed surveying that they could not stop to shoot or pick up any of them'. Noting that one boat not allocated to surveying duty would have enabled the procuring of numerous birds and plants, it being impossible to dry specimens of plants or to skin birds in a small open boat during surveying. Passing several vultures' nests. Shooting at the birds, but the first shot 'had only the effect of making them raise their heads out of the nest to look round them, and they would frequently doze until a second shot was fired at them'. Their bodies, apart from the head and neck, covered in feathers strong enough to 'defy anything less than a ball'
Alexander Vidal stopping at noon to observe the meridian altitude of the sun to ascertain their latitude. Trading with the locals, 'but they had little to offer us but their hassegays [assagai], which they parted with for tobacco, beads or buttons'. Acquiring six fowls for a couple of Malay knives costing 10d each in England. Iron hoops and blue dungaree [a type of cotton fabric] being desirable items. The local people wearing ornaments of beads, bones, claws of birds and tufts of hair [annotated: 'as necklaces']
Seeing seven hippopotamuses in the afternoon: 'their noise is an unpleasant snort between the grunt of a hog and the bleat of a cow [annotated: 'or neighing of a horse']'. The water depth five fathoms at low tide. A heavy thunder storm approaching, hurrying to the shore to pitch tents but not managing to finish: 'this was very unfortunate, for it not only wet our baggage, but made the ground which we had to sleep on a complete puddle; the ground was very uneven here by the feet of hippopotamus sinking into it when it was wet'
Camping in King Mataul's ['Mataul's' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'Kapell's [Mayeta, king of Tembe]'] dominion. Seeing Arduinea bispinosa [Carissa bispinosa] in flower, with a 'refreshing odour'. Finding Haemanthus (specimen 30) and Acrostichum (specimen 31). Charles Lechmere shooting some hares
(7 Oct 1822) Dismantling tents and embarking on boats. Temperature 74° at 9am. Seeing 'a small party of Hollontontes' on the opposite bank, and a little further 'fell in with a party of the defeated, retreating subjects of King Kapell [Mayeta]', beckoning to be taken across the river in the boats. Alexander Vidal taking several women and children over: 'but they would not remain, when they found their husbands and the men would not join them; they wished to return and share the fate of their husbands'. Returning the people to the other shore
Landing for water at a place 'the highest any Portuguese boats have ever been'. The Portuguese coming to the place to barter for hippopotamus teeth. Measuring the trunk of a species of Ficus, with a circumference of 22 feet, with good walnut-sized fruit. The country becoming more diverse and the riverbanks higher. Seeing many hippopotamuses. The boat with Forbes being considerably behind the other boats, hearing shots fired and firing in return, assuming them to be signals
Learning later that the shots were fired at hippopotamuses, catching a young one separated from its mother: 'the animal, which did not seem to be more than six or seven days old, weighed above 70 pounds, the flesh very much like fat veal and was very excellent'. Seeing another group of hippopotamuses. An officer with two men going on shore to shoot them, but being unsuccessful as their thick skin protected them from bullets: 'he must be an excellent marksman that could shoot them in the eye which is the only vulnerable part'
Seeing the other boats landing at the left bank. Going with Charles Lechmere to shoot 'something for the pot'. Seeing several antelopes but not being able to get close. Finding huts with local people roasting maquaquas [annotated: 'or calabashes'] or ouanande eusabe[?] [corrected to 'quanande yusabe[?]' [?Crescentia cujete]] in a reed oven built 'in rather an ingenious manner', about three feet in diameter and three feet deep, plastered inside and outside with clay, a fire made at the bottom, with a 'grating of basket work, on which the seeds & pulp are placed and parched. John Forbes' travel journal, 6 Sep-30 Nov 1822, in South Africa and Mozambique. The back of the volume records notes on the vegetation and language in Mozambique
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-103: Narrative of travel, 6 Sep-30 Nov 1822
Page 104: Blank
Pages 105-111: 'Some remarks on the soil and vegetable productions of Delagoa Bay and adjacent country'
Page 112: Blank
Pages 113-119: 'Vocabulary of the language spoken by the Natives about the English River, Temby and the adjacent countries near Delagoa Bay'
Pages 120-124: Blank
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled '4. Journal, September 6th to November 30th 1822'. Parts of the spine missing. The binding is reasonably robust but the front cover is splitting from the spine at lower edge. Pages are reasonably robust. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 31.5 (h) x 20 (w) cm
From 12 Sep-30 Nov 1822 the journal appears to be a copy of RHS/Col/3/1/6, with annotations from the original incorporated. Entries for 6 Sep-11 Sep are also found at the end of RHS/Col/3/1/6
The text was copied in several hands and written on rectos only. Note at the front: 'Mr Forbes' journal, corrected for copying'. Annotated in pencil by William Owen, captain of HMS Leven (annotations by Owen, unless otherwise indicated), in preparation for the publication of his version of the journey. Annotations include marginal and interlinear annotations, annotations on the blank verso pages, corrections and crossings out. The more substantial annotations have been included and identified in the description, whilst minor alterations of spelling or phrasing have not been noted
The journal contains headings by location
The back of the volume contains notes on the vegetation and language in Mozambique
The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Summary of contents:
(6 Sep 1822) Packing plants in three boxes. Wrapping roots tight in moss and setting the plants upright in the boxes, the boxes about a foot square, open at the top, covered with four bars of wood instead of a lid to admit air and protect the plants. Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven] going into Cape Town [South Africa] to rig the tender Cockburn
(7-10 Sep 1822) Arranging and packing specimens of plants collected in Rio [Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] and those collected at the Cape [Cape of Good Hope, South Africa] sufficiently dry for sending. William Owen returning from Cape Town on 9 Sep
(11 Sep 1822) Packing two cases with specimens, with joints and cracks pitched up to prevent moisture from entering. Three boxes arriving of loquat and orange plants and vine cuttings from Mr van Renen [Dirk Gysbert van Reenen], to take to Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay, Mozambique]. Taking them to the observatory. Writing letters to England. Preparing for the journey
(12 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor and sailing from Simon's Bay [South Africa] at dawn. Passing an Indiaman [East India Company ship], whose last stop had been Madeira [Portugal], but carrying no letters for them. Seeing pintados (Procellaria capensis) [Cape petrel, Daption capense] ('our old companions') and albatrosses (Diomedea exulans). Passing Cape Hangclip [Cape Hangklip, South Africa], forming the entrance into False Bay [South Africa], together with the Cape of Good Hope. Passing Point Danger [Danger Point, South Africa] and Cape L'Agullas [Cape Agulhas, South Africa] at sunset. The coast barren and uninhabited, and 'does not present a single place for even a boat to land' ['does not [...] to land' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'not more than one or two places where establishments could well be formed']. Leaving the Cockburn to proceed to Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], intending to join it there. A fine breeze
(13 Sep 1822) Fine weather with a light breeze. Steering towards Algoa Bay [South Africa]. The land on the left low and barren [annotated: 'near the shore, with a high mountain range in the interior']: 'from the distance we were from it we were not able to judge of its qualities'. Little vegetation. The ship only proceeding four knots the whole day
(14 Sep 1822) The ship going at a rate of seven and a half knots with increased winds. The weather cloudy with occasional rain. Passing Cape Vaches [?Vleesbai, South Africa] and Cape St Francis [South Africa]. The land west of Cape St Francis greener, with a ridge of 'tolerably high hills' at some distance from the shore, and below, the land known as flats ('tracts of land that have a tolerably even surface, and partially flooded in the winter season'). Seeing some trees and bushes on them. The flats offering no shelter for shipping or boats [annotated: 'except immediately to the eastward of Cape St Francis, which is the southern point of this part of the coast in latitude 34°10'S, where there is a fine bay, but little inferior to Algoa Bay, & certainly a good situation for a coast establishment both for fishing and commerce']. 'Sounding [measuring the depth of water] and taking angles frequently'
(15 Sep 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Recife [South Africa] at the entrance to Algoa Bay. The country towards the south-west [crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'westward'] seeming fertile, with some cultivation. Light winds. Anchoring off Port Elizabeth [South Africa] at 4pm. The country low and flat, with sandy soil near the coast. Mr Vidal [Alexander Vidal, first lieutenant, later captain, of HMS Barracouta] going on shore to take observations [the following crossed out in pencil: 'Too late for plant collecting, remaining on board until the following morning']
(16 Sep 1822) Everyone anxious to go on shore to see the new settlement 'that had made so much noise in England'. Expecting to find plants not found further south ['further to the south' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'at the Cape [Cape of Good Hope]']. Not being disappointed: finding 80 or 90 new plants during their 48-hour stay. The colony new, with about 30 houses, and more being built. The land not good, being sand or poor sandy loam full of stones. Being told the land further inland was better: 'this place must depend chiefly on the shipping that touch at it for its future prosperity'
Landing difficult due to heavy surf, and having to use government-provided surf boats 'of a peculiar construction', flat-bottomed, deep, strong, and square at the ends, being hauled through the surf with a rope fastened to an anchor and on shore: 'by these boats communication with vessels can be effected almost at any time, when it would be impossible for common boats to attempt a landing' [annotated: 'there was a party of Deal men lately settled here, who with whale boats both landed & put out when the surf boats could not do so']
Going on shore and discovering that Alexander Vidal was staying at the house of the commandant, Captain Evatt [Francis Evatt, commandant of Fort Frederick, South Africa] [annotated: 'a veteran']. Forbes being offered space in the house for arranging specimens, and men to accompany him on collecting expeditions. Making a short excursion around the town with Francis Evatt and William Owen
Finding a number of plants on a bank overhanging a pool of water, south-west of the landing place [annotated: 'which is the reservoir of certain pebbly streamlets barred at the beach by a bank, almost dry at low water. As the tides flowed into this, the water was of course brackish. This was an epitome of all the ruins on this coast. In the rains its bar is swept away by the floods from the land side, and in the dry season it is blocked by the sea winds & surf beating up the sand against it']. Owen discovering an orchideous plant (specimen 8) ('very elegant'). Finding several of them, with bulbs shallow in the ground, scarcely covered by earth, only by light mould and decayed leaves. Putting the plants in paper. Going out to collect more plants accompanied by two men, wishing to acquire better specimens, as many collected earlier 'were much eaten by the cattle and otherwise stunted ['stunted' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'mutilated']. Finding several beautiful plants in the valley (specimens 62, 63, 66, 67, 75, 76, 78, 91 and 94)
Arriving at a Dutch boor's [boer or farmer] house two miles up the valley. Seeing a hut in the garden, made of a species of Typha growing in the brook, with a fire in the middle on the ground: 'on one side was seated an elderly Hottentot [Khoikhoi] with a sheep's skin thrown carelessly over his shoulders and a piece of coarse linen that just concealed his nakedness. On the other side was seated his daughter, a young woman of about 24 years of age, with one child at the breast and another standing beside her. Her dress consisted of a petticoat and a broadish strip of cloth to fasten the infant on her projecting posterior when she walked'. The hut about nine feet long and seven broad: 'in this small space frequently 12 or 14 adults and five or six children sleep'
Turning left from the hut to go into the flat. Seeing several beautiful plants. Finding four of 'the most beautiful orchids I had seen' (specimens 56, 57, 58 and 59) on the return journey after sunset. Having seen some of specimen 56 near the hut visited earlier, and some near Cape Point [South Africa], but not in flower. Finding specimen 101 in flower, having seen it previously near Simon's Bay but not in blossom. Collecting several to plant in soil in boxes on board the ship 'in order to make specimens of them'. Not having seen specimens 57 and 58 previously: 'the last one is peculiarly handsome'. All growing in a sandy, heathy soil. William Owen proposing sailing the following afternoon. Writing letters. Latitude of Port Elizabeth 33°58'00''S, longitude east of Simon's Bay 7°12'E, or 25°44'30''E ['44' crossed out in pencil and replaced with '25.33.30'] east of Greenwich
(17 Sep 1822) Going on board in the morning to bring seeds on shore ('an article much wanted at this place'). Leaving behind some loquats (Mespilus japonicus) [Eriobotrya japonica] brought from the Cape [Cape of Good Hope], that 'excellent fruit tree' not previously found at Port Elizabeth. Seeing the sea breaking over rocks at the entrance to the bay, having been informed of their existence by Francis Evatt [annotated: 'the sea breaking on what was certainly shore water, but the ship, in passing out to sea, went over the spot as she could without finding any indication of shore water, but as the particular examination of this part was not included in the captain's orders, he was too anxious to get on his own ground to lose more time here']. Alexander Vidal measuring the distance from Port Elizabeth, sending an officer to the Point [?Cape Recife, South Africa] to observe: 'it bore south-east and east from the commandant's house [annotated: 'by compass variation 30°W']
Arranging plants collected the previous day. Vidal taking 'observations of the sun, to correspond with those taken in the morning'. Supplies of fresh beef, vegetables and butter sent on board. Going on board the ship at sunset. 'I must observe that we had much more civility and kindness shown us here by the commandant [Francis Evatt] and officers stationed at this place, than we met with at Simon's Town [South Africa], and I believe one left it with more regret and desire to return, than they did to the other place'
(18 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor and sailing from Port Elizabeth with a 'pretty stiff breeze'. Passing a considerable distance along the coast. Taking the bearings of the headlands and making sketches of the coast. A strong south-easterly current around Cape L'Agullas [Cape Agulhas]
(19 Sep 1822) Cloudy with some rain. The winds light in the evening. No land in sight. Arranging specimens and putting them into fresh paper. At 10pm, 'tried temperature of sea by Dr Marcet's water bottle [Alexander Marcet invented a bottle for retrieving samples of seawater]', measuring temperatures of 68° at 5-30 fathoms, 67° at the surface, 61° in the open air and 66° in the fore cabin. Latitude 32°52'S, longitude 9°56' by 'dead reckoning' [the process of calculating one's current position by using a previously determined position, or fix, and advancing that position based on known or estimated speeds over elapsed time and course]
(20 Sep 1822) 'Nothing particular occurred today'. Passing the first point of Natal [KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa]. Arranging specimens, 'which is and must always be done with considerable inconvenience on board ship. The motion of the vessel, want of room, light etc, and if taken on deck the wind will probably blow some of them away'
(21 Sep 1822) Seeing the 'bluff table land' at the entrance to St John's River [Mzimvubu River, South Africa]. The land 'very singular', with lofty table hills on each side unlike anything else on the journey from Simon's Bay. In the afternoon, sounding [measuring the depth of water], taking the bearings and sketching the land. Seeing several whales. A fine day with smooth sea, 'current S37 W34 miles'. In the evening, seeing a fire on the hill near the mouth of the river. Latitude 32°01'S, longitude 11°31'40''E of Simon's Bay
(22 Sep 1822) Making little progress. The winds very light, 'current S51 W47 miles'. The sea smooth, the day fine. The wind increasing after sunset. At midnight going at a rate of nine knots. Changing specimen papers. Latitude 32°24'17'', longitude 11°30'10''E of Simon's Town
(23 Sep 1822) Fine weather with a fair wind. No land in sight. No current. Several birds around the ship's stern, including albatrosses (Diomedea exulans) and three or four species of petrels (Procellaria). Seeing stormy petrels (Procellaria pelagica) [?Hydrobates pelagicus], having only seen one previously on the journey from Rio de Janeiro to the Cape of Good Hope. Latitude 31°41'29'', longitude 14°35'00''
[Annotated between the entries: '(25 Sep) Arrived in the latitude of Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay] but the weather being very thick, remained in the offing until the']
(27 Sep 1822) Coming in sight of Cape St Mary's [Cape Santa Maria, Ilha da Inhaca, Mozambique], left of the entrance into Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], about five leagues away. Anchoring at Delagoa Bay. Seeing two whalers from London anchored by the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo, Mozambique]. The masters [naval officers responsible for navigation] of both coming on board the ship in the evening, giving William Owen advice regarding the bay and anchoring. The bay extensive, the shoreline low and sandy near the entrance. The mean width of the bay about 21 miles. The distance from Cape St Mary's to the anchorage in the English River about 20 miles
(28 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor at 1am. Anchoring in the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo] off the Portuguese fort at 4am. Going on shore after breakfast with Charles Lechmere [Charles Lechmere, apparently accompanying Captain William Owen on HMS Leven to study hydrography] and Alexander Vidal to the Portuguese fort to pay respects to the Portuguese commandant [Jacques Casimir, commander of the Portuguese fort in Mozambique] and to deliver letters and newspapers from Rio de Janeiro to him
'The Portuguese establishment here is very insignificant, no regular governor, only an acting commandant for the time being'. The rest of the Portuguese population, 50 or 60 people including the soldiers, being 'convicts and delinquents, who have violated the laws of their country'. The fort consisting of six or eight [annotated: 'small'] pieces of corroded and rusted ordinance [ordnance, military equipment], with the exterior 'mouldering and falling away'. The interior in better condition, but 'altogether incapable of making any defence in case of an attack'. The commandant treating them with politeness [the following crossed out in pencil: 'It was perhaps partly through fear at seeing a British Man of War so close under the walls of his miserable fort']. Having difficulty explaining the purpose of their visit, despite letters brought by William Owen and explanations by the 'linguist', Mr Philipps [George Phillips, interpreter, who joined the ship in Portugal]
Going along the beach to look at the watering place for ships east of the fort [annotated: 'where wells are dug in the beach under the eastly [easterly] cliffs']. Proceeding a little further to search for a place to pitch a tent and take observations, 'as some inconvenience would have attended our building a hut on Reuben Point [Ponta Vermelha, Mozambique], as was Captain Owen's [William Owen] original wish and intention'
Due to the distance from the ship and the watering place, as well as 'our utter unacquaintance with the dispositions of the inhabitants whose languages we did not understand', Alexander Vidal asking William Owen to obtain a room at the Portuguese fort for storing the astronomical instruments and for taking observations from. Jacques Casimir giving a large house for their use, the residence of the previous governor, with an enclosed garden
Most ['most' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'some'] of the land cultivated. Seeing 'nothing but the female part of the natives at work', sowing Indian corn (Zea mays) [flint corn] and pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo). Seeing very few vegetables and fruits, it being the beginning of the rainy season, with trees coming to leaf and bloom. The soil a very dry, sharp, red sand with loam. Seeing numerous 'inhabitants', with houses built of reeds in a circular form, about 12 or 15 feet in circumference, with a roof 'not unlike an umbrella'. Going on board the ship in the evening
(29 Sep 1822) [The following entry crossed out in pencil: 'Taking the instruments for observation, beds and other 'necessaries' on shore. Arranging the accommodation. William Owen and most of the officers coming on shore in the afternoon']
(30 Sep 1822) [The following entry crossed out in pencil: 'Bringing the remainder of the baggage to the observatory [the governor's house]. Going out with Charles Lechmere to the other side of the village to find out which plants were in blossom and where to find the best specimens']. Shooting several birds. Seeing several antelopes, but not managing to shoot any. The birds (specimen 4) living among the oxen, 'frequently five or six of them on one beast, eating the insects off them' (Buphaga africana) [Buphagus africanus]. Starting to dig the garden of the observatory, putting in dung from two cattle kraals or folds, 'which had been neglected both by the natives and Portuguese'
(1 Oct 1822) Planting vines brought from the Cape [Cape of Good Hope], 'I believe the first ever planted on this colony', vines having been introduced previously by the Portuguese, but, 'either through mismanagement, climate, soil, or local situation' not succeeding
Going out with Charles Lechmere to a freshwater lake [annotated: 'called Moonyana [unidentified]'] north of the observatory. The lake about three quarters of a mile long and half a mile broad. Seeing several Hippopotamus amphibius, coming occasionally to the surface, snorting, and going down again. Shooting birds including ducks, geese, wigeons, two species of Jacana (Parra africana) [Actophilornis africanus] (specimens 14-16) and several birds of the order Grallae
Seeing fence of stakes and bushes around the lake, with openings for the hippopotamus to go through at night to feed, set with traps, with a tree or a large bough 15-20 feet high placed near, a heavy piece of wood suspended from the top by a climbing plant instead of a cord, and the iron of a hassegay [assagai] or spear fixed at the lower end of the piece of wood, wrapped in grass or rushes. The cord suspended across the path of the animals, who, on breaking it, bring down the log and the spear: 'the log of wood is merely to drive the spear in. From this wound he bleeds freely and returns enraged to the water where he dies. The carcass is washed upon the beach in a few days, when the natives are on the look out to take out the teeth for barter', and cut up the flesh for food, 'of which they are very fond'
Seeing very few plants and trees in flower, but expecting the rainy season to bring them into bloom within a week or 10 days. The soil near the lake good, with the water supply being taken advantage of to cultivate Indian corn (Zea mays) [flint corn], rice (Oryza sativa), sweet potatoes (Convolvulus batata) [Ipomoea batatas], pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo) and 'some degenerate kinds of onions'. The water excellent, tasting better than near the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo]. All the agricultural labour being performed by the women, 'which ['which' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'who'] in this, as well as in every other respect, are the abject slaves of the men'
(2 Oct 1822) Collecting plants near the observatory. Going on board the ship to arrange joining the boats to survey the river above Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay] with Alexander Vidal and Charles Lechmere
(3 Oct 1822) Taking baggage on board the Troughton cutter. Sailing from HMS Leven in the afternoon accompanied by three other boats, the Hardy, the Hurd and the Cockburn, with Alexander Vidal commanding the expedition. Forbes travelling on the Troughton, the largest boat, with Charles Lechmere up the left hand bank, Vidal's boat travelling on the right and the two others in the centre. The river widening [annotated: 'into an extensive bason'] but the water shallow and the banks low. The land nearby flooding at spring tide and the rainy season. The only trees on the banks mangrove (Rhizophora). Seeing several Grallae birds on the banks and large flocks of flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber) in the shoals of the river
Camping on an island at the junction of three rivers. Calling it the Refuge Island, 'on observing that great numbers of the inhabitants had taken 'refuge' there as a safe retreat from the Hollontontes or Vatuas [annotated: 'or Zoolos']. Seeing various birds roosting in the trees near the camp. Going out in the moonlight to shoot a couple, 'which were both spoiled for skinning by falling in the mud and bleeding, their plumage being the most delicate white'. Being troubled by mosquitoes at night, keeping them away with large fires
(4 Oct 1822) Collecting 'all the plants within reach', consisting of three species of mangroves (Rhizophora). Shooting a bird of the order Picae. Open boats being 'awkward' places for skinning birds or arranging specimens, getting wet with spray, blowing away with the wind or being knocked into the bottom of the boat among the water by the sailors, 'who [annotated: 'perhaps'] consider every thing of this kind as useless lumber and would rather destroy them than not ['and would rather…' crossed out and replaced with 'or trifling']'
Proceeding up the northern branch of the river. Near the next junction, about one and a half miles up, seeing the first Hippopotamus coming to the surface, blowing and snorting 'like a whale' and then descending again. One branch of the river [annotated: 'the Mattol [Matola River, Mozambique]'] going north, the other [annotated: 'the Temby [Tembe River, Mozambique]'] north-north-west. Seeing 'groups of natives' on the banks: 'they are the same nation as those at the anchorage in English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo], all subjects of the king of Matola [corrected in pencil: 'Mattol [?Machekane, king of Matola or Matsolo]']. They appeared a good deal astonished at seeing our boats'
Further up the river, the scenery and country more diverse, with a greater variety of plants: 'I passed by numbers with great reluctance, although by far the greatest number were neither in flower nor fruit'. Seeing many hippopotamuses. Shooting one and wounding it: 'it seemed inclined to attack the boat, but seeing such a number of us with muskets [crossed out in pencil: '(which by the bye would not one of them go off)'], it made a tremendous rush past the boat into deep water'. At 4pm, not being able to proceed on the boats with only two feet of water with the tide out and the width of the river 32 feet. Turning back and returning four or five miles down the river to encamp. Being caught in a heavy thunder storm: 'all our baggage & ourselves wet'
Shooting an old vulture and taking two young ones from a nest built in a tree. Seeing numerous vultures, but not having time to stop for them or any other birds. The country fine, with rich, deep soil. The spring tide overflowing the riverbanks, producing an abundance of reeds, including Arundo and 'other coarse Gramineae' in the rainy season. The hippopotamuses feeding on these and, if not available, on the Indian corn [flint corn] and rice 'of the poor natives'. The water salty. Not seeing any tributary streams
(5 Oct 1822) Parties sent to search for water at dawn but without success. Finding two beautiful plants (specimens 32 and 33), the only ones in flower. Sowing seeds of mustard, cress, cabbage and turnip and planting vines and loquats. Two boats sent off to search for locals to enquire about water, 'among which was one of King Mataul's [?Machekane] secretaries of state, a sable [black] gentleman without a stitch of clothes on him, but a greater share of ornaments than his less favoured companions. But what was the greatest mark of destination was that he had the privilege of carrying a Portuguese musket, of 100 years old, which was a sufficient passport for him wherever he went'. The gentleman offering to show them water for a few leaves of tobacco: 'this enormous fee we very willingly paid'. About half a mile down the river, landing among 'a number of natives' and finding excellent water
Finding a beautiful orchideous plant (specimen 34). The locals having nothing else to barter but their 'hassegays [assagai] and spears, which they paid with for buttons, beads, knives, handkerchiefs, tobacco etc. For one of the small common gilt Jew's[?] looking glasses, one of the gentlemen obtained one of their best spears and two hassegays. They were highly amused and gaped and stared [annotated: 'at their reflection'] like idiots at this trinket ['at this trinket' crossed out in pencil']'
Temperature at 6am 65°, at 10am 76° and at 11am in the sun 110°. Leaving the river at 11am. Alexander Vidal landing at noon at Refuge Island, the previous camping place, to 'get the meridian observation of the sun for latitude'. The boats proceeding up to survey the southern river [annotated: 'Temby [Tembe River]'], the largest branch of English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo]. The land on the right bank low, covered with mangroves, and the trees on the left side more varied, with deep, sharp, red loam. The river half a mile wide, with five or six fathoms of water at three quarters flow of the tide
Landing in King Kapell's dominion [King Kapell had recently died, with his son Mayeta succeeding him as ruler of Tembe] at 4.30pm. Pitching tents. Vegetables cultivated including Indian corn [flint corn], rice, sweet potatoes (Convolvolus batata) [Ipomoea batatas], pumpkins and the mackquaqua fruit [annotated: 'or calabash [?Crescentia cujete]'] [annotated: 'also cabbages, onions and tomatos are in great abundance, and all apparently indigenous. Just within the beach we found a species of the former as a creeper. The onions were of the shallot kind of two sorts & very fine. They kept on board good for near a year']. The calabash being eaten everywhere in the country, forming in the season 'a considerable article of food of these wretched people, who are rendered even more miserable and unhappy by seeing our clothes, buttons and other luxuries'
The locals making 'sad complaints' of having been robbed and plundered by 'the Hollontontos, a tribe from the south-west ['a tribe from the south-west' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'or Zoolos']'. At midnight, observing three signal rockets from the ships bearing north-east. Responding with two. Being annoyed at having people approaching the tents, 'but the rockets we let off and the vigilant watch we kept all night prevented their coming within a considerable distance' [annotated: 'for it was our practice to have one third of our party under arms and on watch all night, an extremely necessary precaution, however disagreeable after a day of fatigue in such a climate']
(6 Oct 1822) Sailing from the encampment. Temperature 75° in the shade. Seeing mangrove trees on the riverbanks. 'More natives than on any previous day'. Seeing many birds of the order Grallae: 'the boats were so busily employed surveying that they could not stop to shoot or pick up any of them'. Noting that one boat not allocated to surveying duty would have enabled the procuring of numerous birds and plants, it being impossible to dry specimens of plants or to skin birds in a small open boat during surveying. Passing several vultures' nests. Shooting at the birds, but the first shot 'had only the effect of making them raise their heads out of the nest to look round them, and they would frequently doze until a second shot was fired at them'. Their bodies, apart from the head and neck, covered in feathers strong enough to 'defy anything less than a ball'
Alexander Vidal stopping at noon to observe the meridian altitude of the sun to ascertain their latitude. Trading with the locals, 'but they had little to offer us but their hassegays [assagai], which they parted with for tobacco, beads or buttons'. Acquiring six fowls for a couple of Malay knives costing 10d each in England. Iron hoops and blue dungaree [a type of cotton fabric] being desirable items. The local people wearing ornaments of beads, bones, claws of birds and tufts of hair [annotated: 'as necklaces']
Seeing seven hippopotamuses in the afternoon: 'their noise is an unpleasant snort between the grunt of a hog and the bleat of a cow [annotated: 'or neighing of a horse']'. The water depth five fathoms at low tide. A heavy thunder storm approaching, hurrying to the shore to pitch tents but not managing to finish: 'this was very unfortunate, for it not only wet our baggage, but made the ground which we had to sleep on a complete puddle; the ground was very uneven here by the feet of hippopotamus sinking into it when it was wet'
Camping in King Mataul's ['Mataul's' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'Kapell's [Mayeta, king of Tembe]'] dominion. Seeing Arduinea bispinosa [Carissa bispinosa] in flower, with a 'refreshing odour'. Finding Haemanthus (specimen 30) and Acrostichum (specimen 31). Charles Lechmere shooting some hares
(7 Oct 1822) Dismantling tents and embarking on boats. Temperature 74° at 9am. Seeing 'a small party of Hollontontes' on the opposite bank, and a little further 'fell in with a party of the defeated, retreating subjects of King Kapell [Mayeta]', beckoning to be taken across the river in the boats. Alexander Vidal taking several women and children over: 'but they would not remain, when they found their husbands and the men would not join them; they wished to return and share the fate of their husbands'. Returning the people to the other shore
Landing for water at a place 'the highest any Portuguese boats have ever been'. The Portuguese coming to the place to barter for hippopotamus teeth. Measuring the trunk of a species of Ficus, with a circumference of 22 feet, with good walnut-sized fruit. The country becoming more diverse and the riverbanks higher. Seeing many hippopotamuses. The boat with Forbes being considerably behind the other boats, hearing shots fired and firing in return, assuming them to be signals
Learning later that the shots were fired at hippopotamuses, catching a young one separated from its mother: 'the animal, which did not seem to be more than six or seven days old, weighed above 70 pounds, the flesh very much like fat veal and was very excellent'. Seeing another group of hippopotamuses. An officer with two men going on shore to shoot them, but being unsuccessful as their thick skin protected them from bullets: 'he must be an excellent marksman that could shoot them in the eye which is the only vulnerable part'
Seeing the other boats landing at the left bank. Going with Charles Lechmere to shoot 'something for the pot'. Seeing several antelopes but not being able to get close. Finding huts with local people roasting maquaquas [annotated: 'or calabashes'] or ouanande eusabe[?] [corrected to 'quanande yusabe[?]' [?Crescentia cujete]] in a reed oven built 'in rather an ingenious manner', about three feet in diameter and three feet deep, plastered inside and outside with clay, a fire made at the bottom, with a 'grating of basket work, on which the seeds & pulp are placed and parched
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