Journals of John Forbes: Journal 5
Information
Title - Journals of John Forbes: Journal 5
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/3/1/5
Date - 6 Sep-30 Nov 1822
Scope & content - John Forbes' travel journal, 6 Sep-30 Nov 1822, in South Africa and Mozambique. The back of the volume records notes on the vegetation and language in Mozambique
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-103: Narrative of travel, 6 Sep-30 Nov 1822
Page 104: Blank
Pages 105-111: 'Some remarks on the soil and vegetable productions of Delagoa Bay and adjacent country'
Page 112: Blank
Pages 113-119: 'Vocabulary of the language spoken by the Natives about the English River, Temby and the adjacent countries near Delagoa Bay'
Pages 120-124: Blank
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled '4. Journal, September 6th to November 30th 1822'. Parts of the spine missing. The binding is reasonably robust but the front cover is splitting from the spine at lower edge. Pages are reasonably robust. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 31.5 (h) x 20 (w) cm
From 12 Sep-30 Nov 1822 the journal appears to be a copy of RHS/Col/3/1/6, with annotations from the original incorporated. Entries for 6 Sep-11 Sep are also found at the end of RHS/Col/3/1/6
The text was copied in several hands and written on rectos only. Note at the front: 'Mr Forbes' journal, corrected for copying'. Annotated in pencil by William Owen, captain of HMS Leven (annotations by Owen, unless otherwise indicated), in preparation for the publication of his version of the journey. Annotations include marginal and interlinear annotations, annotations on the blank verso pages, corrections and crossings out. The more substantial annotations have been included and identified in the description, whilst minor alterations of spelling or phrasing have not been noted
The journal contains headings by location
The back of the volume contains notes on the vegetation and language in Mozambique
The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Summary of contents:
(6 Sep 1822) Packing plants in three boxes. Wrapping roots tight in moss and setting the plants upright in the boxes, the boxes about a foot square, open at the top, covered with four bars of wood instead of a lid to admit air and protect the plants. Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven] going into Cape Town [South Africa] to rig the tender Cockburn
(7-10 Sep 1822) Arranging and packing specimens of plants collected in Rio [Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] and those collected at the Cape [Cape of Good Hope, South Africa] sufficiently dry for sending. William Owen returning from Cape Town on 9 Sep
(11 Sep 1822) Packing two cases with specimens, with joints and cracks pitched up to prevent moisture from entering. Three boxes arriving of loquat and orange plants and vine cuttings from Mr van Renen [Dirk Gysbert van Reenen], to take to Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay, Mozambique]. Taking them to the observatory. Writing letters to England. Preparing for the journey
(12 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor and sailing from Simon's Bay [South Africa] at dawn. Passing an Indiaman [East India Company ship], whose last stop had been Madeira [Portugal], but carrying no letters for them. Seeing pintados (Procellaria capensis) [Cape petrel, Daption capense] ('our old companions') and albatrosses (Diomedea exulans). Passing Cape Hangclip [Cape Hangklip, South Africa], forming the entrance into False Bay [South Africa], together with the Cape of Good Hope. Passing Point Danger [Danger Point, South Africa] and Cape L'Agullas [Cape Agulhas, South Africa] at sunset. The coast barren and uninhabited, and 'does not present a single place for even a boat to land' ['does not [...] to land' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'not more than one or two places where establishments could well be formed']. Leaving the Cockburn to proceed to Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], intending to join it there. A fine breeze
(13 Sep 1822) Fine weather with a light breeze. Steering towards Algoa Bay [South Africa]. The land on the left low and barren [annotated: 'near the shore, with a high mountain range in the interior']: 'from the distance we were from it we were not able to judge of its qualities'. Little vegetation. The ship only proceeding four knots the whole day
(14 Sep 1822) The ship going at a rate of seven and a half knots with increased winds. The weather cloudy with occasional rain. Passing Cape Vaches [?Vleesbai, South Africa] and Cape St Francis [South Africa]. The land west of Cape St Francis greener, with a ridge of 'tolerably high hills' at some distance from the shore, and below, the land known as flats ('tracts of land that have a tolerably even surface, and partially flooded in the winter season'). Seeing some trees and bushes on them. The flats offering no shelter for shipping or boats [annotated: 'except immediately to the eastward of Cape St Francis, which is the southern point of this part of the coast in latitude 34°10'S, where there is a fine bay, but little inferior to Algoa Bay, & certainly a good situation for a coast establishment both for fishing and commerce']. 'Sounding [measuring the depth of water] and taking angles frequently'
(15 Sep 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Recife [South Africa] at the entrance to Algoa Bay. The country towards the south-west [crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'westward'] seeming fertile, with some cultivation. Light winds. Anchoring off Port Elizabeth [South Africa] at 4pm. The country low and flat, with sandy soil near the coast. Mr Vidal [Alexander Vidal, first lieutenant, later captain, of HMS Barracouta] going on shore to take observations [the following crossed out in pencil: 'Too late for plant collecting, remaining on board until the following morning']
(16 Sep 1822) Everyone anxious to go on shore to see the new settlement 'that had made so much noise in England'. Expecting to find plants not found further south ['further to the south' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'at the Cape [Cape of Good Hope]']. Not being disappointed: finding 80 or 90 new plants during their 48-hour stay. The colony new, with about 30 houses, and more being built. The land not good, being sand or poor sandy loam full of stones. Being told the land further inland was better: 'this place must depend chiefly on the shipping that touch at it for its future prosperity'
Landing difficult due to heavy surf, and having to use government-provided surf boats 'of a peculiar construction', flat-bottomed, deep, strong, and square at the ends, being hauled through the surf with a rope fastened to an anchor and on shore: 'by these boats communication with vessels can be effected almost at any time, when it would be impossible for common boats to attempt a landing' [annotated: 'there was a party of Deal men lately settled here, who with whale boats both landed & put out when the surf boats could not do so']
Going on shore and discovering that Alexander Vidal was staying at the house of the commandant, Captain Evatt [Francis Evatt, commandant of Fort Frederick, South Africa] [annotated: 'a veteran']. Forbes being offered space in the house for arranging specimens, and men to accompany him on collecting expeditions. Making a short excursion around the town with Francis Evatt and William Owen
Finding a number of plants on a bank overhanging a pool of water, south-west of the landing place [annotated: 'which is the reservoir of certain pebbly streamlets barred at the beach by a bank, almost dry at low water. As the tides flowed into this, the water was of course brackish. This was an epitome of all the ruins on this coast. In the rains its bar is swept away by the floods from the land side, and in the dry season it is blocked by the sea winds & surf beating up the sand against it']. Owen discovering an orchideous plant (specimen 8) ('very elegant'). Finding several of them, with bulbs shallow in the ground, scarcely covered by earth, only by light mould and decayed leaves. Putting the plants in paper. Going out to collect more plants accompanied by two men, wishing to acquire better specimens, as many collected earlier 'were much eaten by the cattle and otherwise stunted ['stunted' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'mutilated']. Finding several beautiful plants in the valley (specimens 62, 63, 66, 67, 75, 76, 78, 91 and 94)
Arriving at a Dutch boor's [boer or farmer] house two miles up the valley. Seeing a hut in the garden, made of a species of Typha growing in the brook, with a fire in the middle on the ground: 'on one side was seated an elderly Hottentot [Khoikhoi] with a sheep's skin thrown carelessly over his shoulders and a piece of coarse linen that just concealed his nakedness. On the other side was seated his daughter, a young woman of about 24 years of age, with one child at the breast and another standing beside her. Her dress consisted of a petticoat and a broadish strip of cloth to fasten the infant on her projecting posterior when she walked'. The hut about nine feet long and seven broad: 'in this small space frequently 12 or 14 adults and five or six children sleep'
Turning left from the hut to go into the flat. Seeing several beautiful plants. Finding four of 'the most beautiful orchids I had seen' (specimens 56, 57, 58 and 59) on the return journey after sunset. Having seen some of specimen 56 near the hut visited earlier, and some near Cape Point [South Africa], but not in flower. Finding specimen 101 in flower, having seen it previously near Simon's Bay but not in blossom. Collecting several to plant in soil in boxes on board the ship 'in order to make specimens of them'. Not having seen specimens 57 and 58 previously: 'the last one is peculiarly handsome'. All growing in a sandy, heathy soil. William Owen proposing sailing the following afternoon. Writing letters. Latitude of Port Elizabeth 33°58'00''S, longitude east of Simon's Bay 7°12'E, or 25°44'30''E ['44' crossed out in pencil and replaced with '25.33.30'] east of Greenwich
(17 Sep 1822) Going on board in the morning to bring seeds on shore ('an article much wanted at this place'). Leaving behind some loquats (Mespilus japonicus) [Eriobotrya japonica] brought from the Cape [Cape of Good Hope], that 'excellent fruit tree' not previously found at Port Elizabeth. Seeing the sea breaking over rocks at the entrance to the bay, having been informed of their existence by Francis Evatt [annotated: 'the sea breaking on what was certainly shore water, but the ship, in passing out to sea, went over the spot as she could without finding any indication of shore water, but as the particular examination of this part was not included in the captain's orders, he was too anxious to get on his own ground to lose more time here']. Alexander Vidal measuring the distance from Port Elizabeth, sending an officer to the Point [?Cape Recife, South Africa] to observe: 'it bore south-east and east from the commandant's house [annotated: 'by compass variation 30°W']
Arranging plants collected the previous day. Vidal taking 'observations of the sun, to correspond with those taken in the morning'. Supplies of fresh beef, vegetables and butter sent on board. Going on board the ship at sunset. 'I must observe that we had much more civility and kindness shown us here by the commandant [Francis Evatt] and officers stationed at this place, than we met with at Simon's Town [South Africa], and I believe one left it with more regret and desire to return, than they did to the other place'
(18 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor and sailing from Port Elizabeth with a 'pretty stiff breeze'. Passing a considerable distance along the coast. Taking the bearings of the headlands and making sketches of the coast. A strong south-easterly current around Cape L'Agullas [Cape Agulhas]
(19 Sep 1822) Cloudy with some rain. The winds light in the evening. No land in sight. Arranging specimens and putting them into fresh paper. At 10pm, 'tried temperature of sea by Dr Marcet's water bottle [Alexander Marcet invented a bottle for retrieving samples of seawater]', measuring temperatures of 68° at 5-30 fathoms, 67° at the surface, 61° in the open air and 66° in the fore cabin. Latitude 32°52'S, longitude 9°56' by 'dead reckoning' [the process of calculating one's current position by using a previously determined position, or fix, and advancing that position based on known or estimated speeds over elapsed time and course]
(20 Sep 1822) 'Nothing particular occurred today'. Passing the first point of Natal [KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa]. Arranging specimens, 'which is and must always be done with considerable inconvenience on board ship. The motion of the vessel, want of room, light etc, and if taken on deck the wind will probably blow some of them away'
(21 Sep 1822) Seeing the 'bluff table land' at the entrance to St John's River [Mzimvubu River, South Africa]. The land 'very singular', with lofty table hills on each side unlike anything else on the journey from Simon's Bay. In the afternoon, sounding [measuring the depth of water], taking the bearings and sketching the land. Seeing several whales. A fine day with smooth sea, 'current S37 W34 miles'. In the evening, seeing a fire on the hill near the mouth of the river. Latitude 32°01'S, longitude 11°31'40''E of Simon's Bay
(22 Sep 1822) Making little progress. The winds very light, 'current S51 W47 miles'. The sea smooth, the day fine. The wind increasing after sunset. At midnight going at a rate of nine knots. Changing specimen papers. Latitude 32°24'17'', longitude 11°30'10''E of Simon's Town
(23 Sep 1822) Fine weather with a fair wind. No land in sight. No current. Several birds around the ship's stern, including albatrosses (Diomedea exulans) and three or four species of petrels (Procellaria). Seeing stormy petrels (Procellaria pelagica) [?Hydrobates pelagicus], having only seen one previously on the journey from Rio de Janeiro to the Cape of Good Hope. Latitude 31°41'29'', longitude 14°35'00''
[Annotated between the entries: '(25 Sep) Arrived in the latitude of Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay] but the weather being very thick, remained in the offing until the']
(27 Sep 1822) Coming in sight of Cape St Mary's [Cape Santa Maria, Ilha da Inhaca, Mozambique], left of the entrance into Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], about five leagues away. Anchoring at Delagoa Bay. Seeing two whalers from London anchored by the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo, Mozambique]. The masters [naval officers responsible for navigation] of both coming on board the ship in the evening, giving William Owen advice regarding the bay and anchoring. The bay extensive, the shoreline low and sandy near the entrance. The mean width of the bay about 21 miles. The distance from Cape St Mary's to the anchorage in the English River about 20 miles
(28 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor at 1am. Anchoring in the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo] off the Portuguese fort at 4am. Going on shore after breakfast with Charles Lechmere [Charles Lechmere, apparently accompanying Captain William Owen on HMS Leven to study hydrography] and Alexander Vidal to the Portuguese fort to pay respects to the Portuguese commandant [Jacques Casimir, commander of the Portuguese fort in Mozambique] and to deliver letters and newspapers from Rio de Janeiro to him
'The Portuguese establishment here is very insignificant, no regular governor, only an acting commandant for the time being'. The rest of the Portuguese population, 50 or 60 people including the soldiers, being 'convicts and delinquents, who have violated the laws of their country'. The fort consisting of six or eight [annotated: 'small'] pieces of corroded and rusted ordinance [ordnance, military equipment], with the exterior 'mouldering and falling away'. The interior in better condition, but 'altogether incapable of making any defence in case of an attack'. The commandant treating them with politeness [the following crossed out in pencil: 'It was perhaps partly through fear at seeing a British Man of War so close under the walls of his miserable fort']. Having difficulty explaining the purpose of their visit, despite letters brought by William Owen and explanations by the 'linguist', Mr Philipps [George Phillips, interpreter, who joined the ship in Portugal]
Going along the beach to look at the watering place for ships east of the fort [annotated: 'where wells are dug in the beach under the eastly [easterly] cliffs']. Proceeding a little further to search for a place to pitch a tent and take observations, 'as some inconvenience would have attended our building a hut on Reuben Point [Ponta Vermelha, Mozambique], as was Captain Owen's [William Owen] original wish and intention'
Due to the distance from the ship and the watering place, as well as 'our utter unacquaintance with the dispositions of the inhabitants whose languages we did not understand', Alexander Vidal asking William Owen to obtain a room at the Portuguese fort for storing the astronomical instruments and for taking observations from. Jacques Casimir giving a large house for their use, the residence of the previous governor, with an enclosed garden
Most ['most' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'some'] of the land cultivated. Seeing 'nothing but the female part of the natives at work', sowing Indian corn (Zea mays) [flint corn] and pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo). Seeing very few vegetables and fruits, it being the beginning of the rainy season, with trees coming to leaf and bloom. The soil a very dry, sharp, red sand with loam. Seeing numerous 'inhabitants', with houses built of reeds in a circular form, about 12 or 15 feet in circumference, with a roof 'not unlike an umbrella'. Going on board the ship in the evening
(29 Sep 1822) [The following entry crossed out in pencil: 'Taking the instruments for observation, beds and other 'necessaries' on shore. Arranging the accommodation. William Owen and most of the officers coming on shore in the afternoon']
(30 Sep 1822) [The following entry crossed out in pencil: 'Bringing the remainder of the baggage to the observatory [the governor's house]. Going out with Charles Lechmere to the other side of the village to find out which plants were in blossom and where to find the best specimens']. Shooting several birds. Seeing several antelopes, but not managing to shoot any. The birds (specimen 4) living among the oxen, 'frequently five or six of them on one beast, eating the insects off them' (Buphaga africana) [Buphagus africanus]. Starting to dig the garden of the observatory, putting in dung from two cattle kraals or folds, 'which had been neglected both by the natives and Portuguese'
(1 Oct 1822) Planting vines brought from the Cape [Cape of Good Hope], 'I believe the first ever planted on this colony', vines having been introduced previously by the Portuguese, but, 'either through mismanagement, climate, soil, or local situation' not succeeding
Going out with Charles Lechmere to a freshwater lake [annotated: 'called Moonyana [unidentified]'] north of the observatory. The lake about three quarters of a mile long and half a mile broad. Seeing several Hippopotamus amphibius, coming occasionally to the surface, snorting, and going down again. Shooting birds including ducks, geese, wigeons, two species of Jacana (Parra africana) [Actophilornis africanus] (specimens 14-16) and several birds of the order Grallae
Seeing fence of stakes and bushes around the lake, with openings for the hippopotamus to go through at night to feed, set with traps, with a tree or a large bough 15-20 feet high placed near, a heavy piece of wood suspended from the top by a climbing plant instead of a cord, and the iron of a hassegay [assagai] or spear fixed at the lower end of the piece of wood, wrapped in grass or rushes. The cord suspended across the path of the animals, who, on breaking it, bring down the log and the spear: 'the log of wood is merely to drive the spear in. From this wound he bleeds freely and returns enraged to the water where he dies. The carcass is washed upon the beach in a few days, when the natives are on the look out to take out the teeth for barter', and cut up the flesh for food, 'of which they are very fond'
Seeing very few plants and trees in flower, but expecting the rainy season to bring them into bloom within a week or 10 days. The soil near the lake good, with the water supply being taken advantage of to cultivate Indian corn (Zea mays) [flint corn], rice (Oryza sativa), sweet potatoes (Convolvulus batata) [Ipomoea batatas], pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo) and 'some degenerate kinds of onions'. The water excellent, tasting better than near the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo]. All the agricultural labour being performed by the women, 'which ['which' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'who'] in this, as well as in every other respect, are the abject slaves of the men'
(2 Oct 1822) Collecting plants near the observatory. Going on board the ship to arrange joining the boats to survey the river above Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay] with Alexander Vidal and Charles Lechmere
(3 Oct 1822) Taking baggage on board the Troughton cutter. Sailing from HMS Leven in the afternoon accompanied by three other boats, the Hardy, the Hurd and the Cockburn, with Alexander Vidal commanding the expedition. Forbes travelling on the Troughton, the largest boat, with Charles Lechmere up the left hand bank, Vidal's boat travelling on the right and the two others in the centre. The river widening [annotated: 'into an extensive bason'] but the water shallow and the banks low. The land nearby flooding at spring tide and the rainy season. The only trees on the banks mangrove (Rhizophora). Seeing several Grallae birds on the banks and large flocks of flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber) in the shoals of the river
Camping on an island at the junction of three rivers. Calling it the Refuge Island, 'on observing that great numbers of the inhabitants had taken 'refuge' there as a safe retreat from the Hollontontes or Vatuas [annotated: 'or Zoolos']. Seeing various birds roosting in the trees near the camp. Going out in the moonlight to shoot a couple, 'which were both spoiled for skinning by falling in the mud and bleeding, their plumage being the most delicate white'. Being troubled by mosquitoes at night, keeping them away with large fires
(4 Oct 1822) Collecting 'all the plants within reach', consisting of three species of mangroves (Rhizophora). Shooting a bird of the order Picae. Open boats being 'awkward' places for skinning birds or arranging specimens, getting wet with spray, blowing away with the wind or being knocked into the bottom of the boat among the water by the sailors, 'who [annotated: 'perhaps'] consider every thing of this kind as useless lumber and would rather destroy them than not ['and would rather…' crossed out and replaced with 'or trifling']'
Proceeding up the northern branch of the river. Near the next junction, about one and a half miles up, seeing the first Hippopotamus coming to the surface, blowing and snorting 'like a whale' and then descending again. One branch of the river [annotated: 'the Mattol [Matola River, Mozambique]'] going north, the other [annotated: 'the Temby [Tembe River, Mozambique]'] north-north-west. Seeing 'groups of natives' on the banks: 'they are the same nation as those at the anchorage in English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo], all subjects of the king of Matola [corrected in pencil: 'Mattol [?Machekane, king of Matola or Matsolo]']. They appeared a good deal astonished at seeing our boats'
Further up the river, the scenery and country more diverse, with a greater variety of plants: 'I passed by numbers with great reluctance, although by far the greatest number were neither in flower nor fruit'. Seeing many hippopotamuses. Shooting one and wounding it: 'it seemed inclined to attack the boat, but seeing such a number of us with muskets [crossed out in pencil: '(which by the bye would not one of them go off)'], it made a tremendous rush past the boat into deep water'. At 4pm, not being able to proceed on the boats with only two feet of water with the tide out and the width of the river 32 feet. Turning back and returning four or five miles down the river to encamp. Being caught in a heavy thunder storm: 'all our baggage & ourselves wet'
Shooting an old vulture and taking two young ones from a nest built in a tree. Seeing numerous vultures, but not having time to stop for them or any other birds. The country fine, with rich, deep soil. The spring tide overflowing the riverbanks, producing an abundance of reeds, including Arundo and 'other coarse Gramineae' in the rainy season. The hippopotamuses feeding on these and, if not available, on the Indian corn [flint corn] and rice 'of the poor natives'. The water salty. Not seeing any tributary streams
(5 Oct 1822) Parties sent to search for water at dawn but without success. Finding two beautiful plants (specimens 32 and 33), the only ones in flower. Sowing seeds of mustard, cress, cabbage and turnip and planting vines and loquats. Two boats sent off to search for locals to enquire about water, 'among which was one of King Mataul's [?Machekane] secretaries of state, a sable [black] gentleman without a stitch of clothes on him, but a greater share of ornaments than his less favoured companions. But what was the greatest mark of destination was that he had the privilege of carrying a Portuguese musket, of 100 years old, which was a sufficient passport for him wherever he went'. The gentleman offering to show them water for a few leaves of tobacco: 'this enormous fee we very willingly paid'. About half a mile down the river, landing among 'a number of natives' and finding excellent water
Finding a beautiful orchideous plant (specimen 34). The locals having nothing else to barter but their 'hassegays [assagai] and spears, which they paid with for buttons, beads, knives, handkerchiefs, tobacco etc. For one of the small common gilt Jew's[?] looking glasses, one of the gentlemen obtained one of their best spears and two hassegays. They were highly amused and gaped and stared [annotated: 'at their reflection'] like idiots at this trinket ['at this trinket' crossed out in pencil']'
Temperature at 6am 65°, at 10am 76° and at 11am in the sun 110°. Leaving the river at 11am. Alexander Vidal landing at noon at Refuge Island, the previous camping place, to 'get the meridian observation of the sun for latitude'. The boats proceeding up to survey the southern river [annotated: 'Temby [Tembe River]'], the largest branch of English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo]. The land on the right bank low, covered with mangroves, and the trees on the left side more varied, with deep, sharp, red loam. The river half a mile wide, with five or six fathoms of water at three quarters flow of the tide
Landing in King Kapell's dominion [King Kapell had recently died, with his son Mayeta succeeding him as ruler of Tembe] at 4.30pm. Pitching tents. Vegetables cultivated including Indian corn [flint corn], rice, sweet potatoes (Convolvolus batata) [Ipomoea batatas], pumpkins and the mackquaqua fruit [annotated: 'or calabash [?Crescentia cujete]'] [annotated: 'also cabbages, onions and tomatos are in great abundance, and all apparently indigenous. Just within the beach we found a species of the former as a creeper. The onions were of the shallot kind of two sorts & very fine. They kept on board good for near a year']. The calabash being eaten everywhere in the country, forming in the season 'a considerable article of food of these wretched people, who are rendered even more miserable and unhappy by seeing our clothes, buttons and other luxuries'
The locals making 'sad complaints' of having been robbed and plundered by 'the Hollontontos, a tribe from the south-west ['a tribe from the south-west' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'or Zoolos']'. At midnight, observing three signal rockets from the ships bearing north-east. Responding with two. Being annoyed at having people approaching the tents, 'but the rockets we let off and the vigilant watch we kept all night prevented their coming within a considerable distance' [annotated: 'for it was our practice to have one third of our party under arms and on watch all night, an extremely necessary precaution, however disagreeable after a day of fatigue in such a climate']
(6 Oct 1822) Sailing from the encampment. Temperature 75° in the shade. Seeing mangrove trees on the riverbanks. 'More natives than on any previous day'. Seeing many birds of the order Grallae: 'the boats were so busily employed surveying that they could not stop to shoot or pick up any of them'. Noting that one boat not allocated to surveying duty would have enabled the procuring of numerous birds and plants, it being impossible to dry specimens of plants or to skin birds in a small open boat during surveying. Passing several vultures' nests. Shooting at the birds, but the first shot 'had only the effect of making them raise their heads out of the nest to look round them, and they would frequently doze until a second shot was fired at them'. Their bodies, apart from the head and neck, covered in feathers strong enough to 'defy anything less than a ball'
Alexander Vidal stopping at noon to observe the meridian altitude of the sun to ascertain their latitude. Trading with the locals, 'but they had little to offer us but their hassegays [assagai], which they parted with for tobacco, beads or buttons'. Acquiring six fowls for a couple of Malay knives costing 10d each in England. Iron hoops and blue dungaree [a type of cotton fabric] being desirable items. The local people wearing ornaments of beads, bones, claws of birds and tufts of hair [annotated: 'as necklaces']
Seeing seven hippopotamuses in the afternoon: 'their noise is an unpleasant snort between the grunt of a hog and the bleat of a cow [annotated: 'or neighing of a horse']'. The water depth five fathoms at low tide. A heavy thunder storm approaching, hurrying to the shore to pitch tents but not managing to finish: 'this was very unfortunate, for it not only wet our baggage, but made the ground which we had to sleep on a complete puddle; the ground was very uneven here by the feet of hippopotamus sinking into it when it was wet'
Camping in King Mataul's ['Mataul's' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'Kapell's [Mayeta, king of Tembe]'] dominion. Seeing Arduinea bispinosa [Carissa bispinosa] in flower, with a 'refreshing odour'. Finding Haemanthus (specimen 30) and Acrostichum (specimen 31). Charles Lechmere shooting some hares
(7 Oct 1822) Dismantling tents and embarking on boats. Temperature 74° at 9am. Seeing 'a small party of Hollontontes' on the opposite bank, and a little further 'fell in with a party of the defeated, retreating subjects of King Kapell [Mayeta]', beckoning to be taken across the river in the boats. Alexander Vidal taking several women and children over: 'but they would not remain, when they found their husbands and the men would not join them; they wished to return and share the fate of their husbands'. Returning the people to the other shore
Landing for water at a place 'the highest any Portuguese boats have ever been'. The Portuguese coming to the place to barter for hippopotamus teeth. Measuring the trunk of a species of Ficus, with a circumference of 22 feet, with good walnut-sized fruit. The country becoming more diverse and the riverbanks higher. Seeing many hippopotamuses. The boat with Forbes being considerably behind the other boats, hearing shots fired and firing in return, assuming them to be signals
Learning later that the shots were fired at hippopotamuses, catching a young one separated from its mother: 'the animal, which did not seem to be more than six or seven days old, weighed above 70 pounds, the flesh very much like fat veal and was very excellent'. Seeing another group of hippopotamuses. An officer with two men going on shore to shoot them, but being unsuccessful as their thick skin protected them from bullets: 'he must be an excellent marksman that could shoot them in the eye which is the only vulnerable part'
Seeing the other boats landing at the left bank. Going with Charles Lechmere to shoot 'something for the pot'. Seeing several antelopes but not being able to get close. Finding huts with local people roasting maquaquas [annotated: 'or calabashes'] or ouanande eusabe[?] [corrected to 'quanande yusabe[?]' [?Crescentia cujete]] in a reed oven built 'in rather an ingenious manner', about three feet in diameter and three feet deep, plastered inside and outside with clay, a fire made at the bottom, with a 'grating of basket work, on which the seeds & pulp are placed and parched', then pounded in a wooden mortar made of a tree trunk and crushed with a wooden pestle 'as thick as a man's leg' [annotated: 'this wooden pestle & mortar is the most common utensil among all tribes of Africans and Asiatic Indians, with it their rice is cleaned and numerous other domestic operations for preparing food [are carried out]. This sort of food (the calabashes) are not usually eaten by the natives, and many of our people suffered much by doing so. The reason of their being obliged to resort to this food now, was the destruction of every article eatable by the rebel Zoolos under Soonkundava [?Zwangendaba kaZiguda Jele Gumbi, the king of the Ngoni]']. The fruit being the main staple food during the rainy season when rice, Indian corn [flint corn], pumpkins and sweet potatoes were not available: 'it has a bitter unpleasant taste to a European'
Finding the place best to camp, with dry soil, plenty of wood and water nearby: 'the scene at this place at midnight had something solemn and sublime in it', with a clear starlit sky, the only sounds the cracking of the fire, the snorting of the hippopotamuses and their movements in and out of the river, the screaming of a species of Ibis, 'mingled with the cries of 'all well' from the centinals [sentinels] round the tents'. Camping on the riverbank, with dense, lofty trees behind: 'it was [annotated: 'believed'] also higher up in this part of Africa than any Europeans had ever been before' [annotated: 'but in this we were possibly misinformed']. Alexander Vidal taking observations of stars to ascertain longitude
(8 Oct 1822) Digging up several roots of a species of Amaryllideae not seen further down the river. The plant not in flower, 'but from their appearance there is no doubt of this being a very fine plant'. Collecting some plant specimens. At 7.30am, sailing up the river with the flood tide. The river narrowing and the country becoming more diverse
Arriving at a junction of two rivers of equal size at 9am. Alexander Vidal choosing the left river, with the other boats following. The river narrowing, with fallen trees making it almost impassable and difficult for the boats to proceed. The banks high with fine, sandy loam. Shooting a bat ['bat' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'flying fox'] (Vespertilio), 'upwards of two feet in the spread of the membrane' [annotated by Forbes: 'this animal was thrown in to the boat on the night of the 9th and completely spoiled']. The people in the first boat seeing monkeys fleeing
Not being able to proceed further by noon. Vidal stopping to take observations of the sun to ascertain latitude, fixing it at 26°17'02''S. 'We here regaled ourselves with some biscuits, English cheese and wine that had been brought here for the purpose, and no doubt the first of these articles [that] were eaten in this part of Africa'. Collecting plants, but only finding three or four, not in flower. 'Our observations will hold good with respect to nine tenths of the vegetables of this country', with plants from the largest tree to the smallest herb 'clothed with spines', many of them very formidable, in particular some of the Mimosa family. 50 miles from the mouth of the river, the water almost as salty as the sea, with a tide of three or four feet, the river 40 feet wide and one foot deep. Waiting for Vidal, the rest of the boats having sailed. Seeing local people signalling for the boats to land, 'which invitation we declined'
Arriving at the junction of the rivers, seeing baggage from Vidal's boat lying on the grass by the river and the boat being hauled out of the water. Discovering that a hippopotamus had torn some planks off the side of the boat. Having to pitch the tents and repair the boat, Vidal having brought the necessary tools, anticipating such an accident. 'This however was quite unlooked for, as we had not molested them by firing at them in this part of the river', having given up firing at them with regular musket bullets which would not penetrate their thick skin. Having the wet baggage brought on shore and a fire made for drying paper ('that had been wet ever since the second day')
Expecting to remain at the location for the following day, wishing he had paper for collecting plants. The place good for encampment, on open ground with plenty of good wood for fire and water nearby. Being unable to get further up by boat: 'a quarter of a mile higher up than this, we could walk across at low water without wetting the soles of our shoes'. The water quite salty, it being the latter end of the dry season: 'in the rainy season no doubt there is a considerable stream of fresh water'
(9 Oct 1822) At dawn, 'everyone was off with guns of different kinds to shoot for the skin and the pot'. Going alone with a gun up one side of the river ('rather an imprudent act') to collect plants and to shoot birds. Seeing a variety of plants but few in blossom due to several months of little or no rain. About two miles away, seeing a hippopotamus asleep on the opposite bank, largely out of the water. Going back to the tents 'to get a stronger force with muskets, spears, harpoons etc. A party armed in this manner set out to attack this monster', but finding the animal had retreated back to the river
On the way up the river and at the Portuguese fort, hearing 'dreadful accounts of a warlike banditry called Hollontontos or Vatuas, that were the scourge and dread of the poor, helpless, cowardly subjects of Kings Kapell [Mayeta] and Mataul [?Machekane]', described as having 'large holes in the flaps of their ears', and carrying large shields. Seeing two of them on the opposite bank, 'who on seeing us ran off, and were soon lost sight of among the bushes'. Crossing the river. Finding in a palm grove ('I believe Phoenix dactylifera') a hut or shed made of palm fronds, with remains of fire. Shortly afterwards, seeing a party of about 30, 'intermixed with some Kapellese ['Kapellese' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'of the people of Temby [Tembe]'], who our interpreter gave us to understand were of a peaceable tribe. However, we found the contrary, and had nearly paid for it with our lives'
Being accompanied to the encampment, but initially refusing to trade: 'when we wished to procure some of their hassegays [assagai], shields etc, they asked us very significantly, if we were at war how we should like to part with our arms, notwithstanding this they very readily accepted anything we offered them', including tobacco, beads, buttons and iron hoops. Noting that 'they are a much finer looking race of men than either the Kapellese or the Mataulese ['either the Kapellese or the Mataulese' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'the natives about the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo]']'. One of the men being a prince, accompanied by his staff and officers of state. Describing him as a young man, not as tall as some of his attendants, with more ornaments of animal skins, feathers and claws than the others. 'Their hair is dressed rather prettily, forming a kind of coronet ornamented with feathers etc' [annotated: 'his name we afterwards learnt was Chinchingana [Soshangane kaZikode or Manukosi, king of Ndwandwe]']. Mr Hood ('one of the gentlemen') [George Hood, midshipman on HMS Barracouta] starting to draw a picture of the chief, who, on noticing, 'rose rather indignantly, and with the rest of his companions retired rather abruptly', promising to return in the afternoon with a bullock. 'They certainly returned but we saw nothing like a bullock, except their shields which are made of the bullock hide'
Collecting 'all the plants' nearby in blossom, amounting to eight or nine, some very beautiful (specimens 26, 30, 35 and 36). Shooting several beautiful birds. Planting loquat and vines. Sowing seeds of mustard, cress, cabbage, turnip, pea and lettuce near the watering place: 'if they are not destroyed by hippopotami or more savage natives, they may at some future day be of service to people that do know the use of them'
At midnight, being alarmed by the cry of 'to arms and the yells of the savages'. Having eight men and two officers keeping watch with Alexander Vidal, however 'these treacherous thieves [...] creeping up close to the ground [...] until they got within about 20 yards of the tents where they rushed upon the men who were repairing the fires with their fire arms laying behind them', throwing their hassegays [assagai] but wounding only one man picking up his arms, with 'two wounds in his thigh and one in his back with a barbed hassegay, which was much the worst being very difficult to extract'. 'They did not remain on the grounds more than a minute, the moment we began to fire they began to retreat and that very quickly'
Discovering afterwards that the chief Chinchingaaney [Soshangane] was among the wounded, finding his shield ('which we had particularly noticed this morning') on the ground: 'we have every reason to believe he was wounded by Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere] with small shot from his fowling piece' [annotated: 'through his shield at about six or seven paces distance']. Hearing them in the woods for some time after. Sending off two rockets in the direction of the noise: 'at those they set up a most terrible yell [annotated: 'and we afterwards were informed that their fear of these missiles was excessive'. Crossed out in pencil: 'we have every reason to think these rockets had an excellent effect in frightening them away']. The confusion in the darkness, being awoken mid-sleep and the attackers' hasty retreat prevented them from killing or wounding more of them: 'perhaps it was as well, for, on more cool deliberation, it would have been very little satisfaction to us to have killed a hundred of them', despite being enraged, and the sailors in particular having to be prevented from 'firing at any native they saw for the next day or two'. Vidal ordering the tents to be dismantled and everything put into the boats by six men, with everyone else watching out 'to give them a warmer reception, if they ventured a second attack, which however they did not hazard'. Taking a couple of hours to put their equipment on board
At dawn, launching the repaired boat and embarking soon afterwards. Going out at dawn a few hundred yards, finding another shield, a spear and a bundle of hassegays [assagai] tied up. Suspecting that more of them were wounded and that the rockets 'had an excellent effect in fighting them away'. Learning later that five were wounded and shot, with two or three dead. 'Our party consisted of 33, we judged there was between 40 and 50 [annotated: 'two and three hundred'] of them'. Suspecting plunder as the motive for the 'treacherous and unprovoked' attack: 'our muskets which they had seen in the daytime, and a large brass telescope with a brass stand, which they considered was a tree of brass, were two principal objects of their desire'. Seeing the usefulness of a strong, armed party when travelling, noting that if the party had consisted of 10 or 12 men 'there is scarcely a doubt but they would have been all murdered', although 'their missiles have but a poor chance with fire arms well managed'. Latitude 26°16'19'', longitude 'by Jupiter, first satellite' 32°30'00'' [annotated: 'which cast was in error about 20 miles']
(10 Oct 1822) Travelling down the river, observing the 'Hollontontos' some distance away. Expecting them to throw their hassegays [assagai] at the boats: 'this however they did not attempt; if they had it would have been to their cost'. Travelling about 30 miles. Anchoring the boats off the first encampment. Going on shore in the morning to find water. Being informed that 'it was a party of Vatways [annotated: 'Zoolos'] or Hollontontos', but that the rockets had frightened them away [annotated: 'perhaps fortunately for us']. The majority of the specimens of plants and birds spoiled and lost in the confusion of packing in the dark
(11 Oct 1822) The surveyors taking angles for surveying the river, 'we being now fairly out of the reach of the Hollontontos, the river being so wide'. At noon, Alexander Vidal stopping to ascertain the meridian altitude. Collecting plants (specimens 24, 41 and 42). Anchoring in the river at night, sleeping on the boats
(12 Oct 1822) The surveyors taking angles until the winds rose and the river became so rough 'that the boats could not be discovered from one side of the river to the other'. At 5pm, Alexander Vidal hoisting 'the general recall', being in sight of the ship. Boarding the ship at 7pm. The schooner Cockburn having been there for a week, 'they had heard on board by the natives of our attack by the Vatways'
(13 Oct 1822) Taking specimens and baggage on shore to the observatory. Changing the paper of the specimens and drying it, arranging the specimens. The neighbourhood being in a state of alarm: 'the natives all come down to the fort out of the way of the Hollontontos, and it was even reported that they intended to attack the Portuguese if they did not give them some bullocks'. The locals having been frightened from their huts within half a mile, some huts having been set on fire during the night
(14 Oct 1822) Planting loquat and orange in Lieutenant Texeira's [Antonio Pedro Texeira, Portuguese governor at Lourenco Marques, the Portuguese fort] garden [annotated: 'which were afterwards overrun by wild shrubs']
Going to the other side of the river to King Kapell's [Mayeta] dominion. Finding Scaveloea [Scaevola] (specimen 14) [annotated: 'in great abundance'] and some other plants (specimen 12). Shooting a kingfisher ('Alcedo rudis?') [Ceryle rudis] (specimen 8). Two boats under the command of Lieutenant Boteler [Thomas Boteler, second lieutenant on HMS Leven and first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta] going to survey and examine the middle or western branch of the river [annotated: 'called Dundas River by us [Mbuluzi River, Mozambique]']. William Owen coming on shore to the observatory for a few days. Catching several insects ('Lepidoptera genera')
(15 Oct 1822) Going north towards the lake. Collecting several new plants. Shooting some birds
(16 Oct 1822) Collecting plants. Changing specimen papers and arranging specimens given by William Owen. Thomas Boteler's boats returning, having been able to proceed only about 10 miles up the river, finding fresh water, the country similar, 'immense numbers' of hippopotamuses and aquatic birds. King Kapell [Mayeta] sending a present of a bullock to William Owen, 'for which his majesty only requested the compliment of a small cask of rum, a few blankets, a jacket or two, some dungaree, iron hoops, tobacco or any little ['or any little' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'and other'] trifles of this kind'
(17 Oct 1822) Collecting and arranging about 30 species of plants near the fort. 'Not prudent to go far into the country for the Hollontontos were said to be within a few miles of us', the local people having fled from their huts and living in the bushes near the fort. HMS Barracouta returning, having surveyed the coast from False Bay to St John's River [Mzimvubu River], not having been able to land anywhere on the coast 'or to cross the bars of any of the rivers' from Algoa Bay to St John's [Port St Johns, South Africa] [the following crossed out in pencil: seeing 'natives in many places who waved to them as if inviting them to come on shore', experiencing 'a good deal of rough weather', with strong southern and western currents]
(18 Oct 1822) Collecting plants (specimens 61-68). 'The natives much alarmed at the Vatways who were within a few miles of the fort'
(19 Oct 1822) Going out with 'a native that could speak a little English' to obtain local names for wild and cultivated plants. Collecting several insects (specimens 2 and 3) 'found on the flower feeding on the petals of No 71'. Seeing an owl's nest in a tree, 'very ingeniously built' with a single opening from beneath: 'I sent a man up to shake the tree, thinking the bird would fly out and I could shoot it'. The locals accompanying Forbes, 'cried out 'shiffaney', which signifies bad or very bad and ran off'. Understanding from the signs and the broken English of one of them 'that they have some superstitious idea about this bird, that some dreadful calamity or death would happen to me if I shot it. Fortunately for the bird and unfortunately for me it happened not to be in the nest. They evinced strong symptoms of joy when they found it was not there'
(20 Oct 1822) Collecting insects, including a large Coleoptera (specimen 31) among the dung in the cattle kraul or fold. 'We were all disturbed and ran away from our dinner', hearing that the 'Hollontontos' were at the lake, having attacked a shooting party from the ship. Mustering arms, and setting off accompanied by 60 or 70 locals with hassegays [assagai]. Finding it a false alarm on arrival at the lake
William Cutfield [William Cutfield, captain of HMS Barracouta], Charles Lechmere, Alexander Vidal and Mr Mudge [William Mudge, first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta] going up the Dundass river [Mbuluzi River] to ascertain whether it would be possible for HMS Barracouta to go up for fresh water and food and to shoot hippopotamuses [annotated: 'as Lieutenant Boteler's [Thomas Boteler] report stated that river to be fresh water, which was found to be correct, although almost at its head the tide rises near nine feet in the springs, of course it cannot be fresh at high water']
(21 Oct 1822) Going to the lake to shoot birds. Collecting a few plants. Shooting a Parra [Jacana] (specimen 14). The boats returning from Dundass River [Mbuluzi River]
(22 Oct 1822) Skinning birds. Preparing to sail up the river on HMS Barracouta for water and wood, but the sea breeze 'blew very fresh today, and she sailed without me, I being on shore with my baggage and could not get a boat in time'
(23 Oct 1822) Going out at dawn with Mr Gibbons [Henry Astley Gibbons, lieutenant on HMS Leven] to the lake. Finding two beautiful Orchidea ('No 82 of list and of jar No 1'): 'I only observed a solitary plant of the species in the jar', both growing in muddy soil most of the year under water. Finding some small bulbs and an 'immense' one of a species of Amarilledae [Amaryllideae], measuring 14 inches in diameter and 18 inches in depth, weighing about 14 pounds, with white juice resembling that of Euphorbia or Cerbera (specimen 3)
Attempting to shoot a crane [annotated: 'crown birds'] 'of a most gigantic size', six feet tall, with body and upper side of the wings dull black, neck and belly and underside of the wings white, the bill scarlet, about 15 inches long with a black band around the middle. Following it for several hours, 'with the idea of getting another shot at it, but in this we were disappointed, and at last it flew off further than we could attempt to follow it'
Returning at noon. Taking paper and other belongings on board HMS Leven to follow HMS Barracouta up the Dundass River [Mbuluzi River] with William Owen. Leaving the ship with a fresh south-easterly breeze blowing. Seeing HMS Barracouta anchored off Refugee Island, at the previous encampment. The wind changing, blowing against them, having to row to the ship. The ship unable to go up the river, there not being sufficient water. Thunder and lightning with heavy rain all night. Thermometer 80°, barometer 29.91
(24 Oct 1822) Remaining on board due to heavy rain. William Owen returning to HMS Leven [annotated: 'leaving me in the Barracouta']. Thermometer 74°, barometer 30.35
(25 Oct 1822) Remaining on board due to rain. HMS Barracouta running aground while attempting to reach anchorage down the river [crossed out in pencil: 'the weather was so exceptionally wet that Captain Cutfield [William Cutfield] thought it most advisable to do so than attempt to go over the bar into Dundass River [Mbuluzi River]'. Annotated: 'she lay aground a whole night tide in the hardest thunder & heaviest lightning the most experienced had ever seen. On the return of the tide, she got off easily and returned to the Leven']
(26 Oct 1822) Rain with thunder and lightning in the morning. Sailing at noon. Arriving at the fort [the Portuguese fort] at 5pm. Boarding HMS Leven. Receiving 'the unwelcome intelligence of the death and burial of Mr Tambs, a midshipman [William Boys Tambs, midshipman on HMS Leven], very much esteemed and respected by all on board. He was the first of the many melancholy instances we afterwards witnessed. We were not much astonished, for the morning we sailed he was delirious'. Sixteen or seventeen others were being looked after by the ship's surgeon due to fever. The schooner Cockburn sailing for some days towards the bar in the bay in order to survey it. 'An occultation of Jupiter's second satellite was observed by Lieutenant Gibbons [Henry Gibbons] this evening'
(27 Oct 1822) The weather improving. 'Just as we had finished breakfast', seeing the Portuguese bringing in their cattle and the local people running from their huts, 'alarmed at the approach of the Hollontontos'. Seeing them about three quarters of a mile off, 'our indignation was again excited at the sight of these murderous marauders'. Going out armed with muskets. The 'Hollontontos' not seeing them until they were within 200 yards then running off, being chased by shots, 'but with no other effect than that of making them run still faster'. Following them, but losing them in the thick bushes. 'The [annotated: 'cowardly'] natives [crossed out in pencil: 'that are great cowards and'] had just run away on seeing us go out, followed us with their hassegays [assagai] and on seeing them (the Hollontontos) run, set up a shout and followed with us but took care never to go before us'. Two of the wounded local people asking for help and being sent on board 'to have their wounds dressed', a man with a spear through his thigh and a woman with a severe head wound from a hassegay [assagai]
Changing papers and arranging specimens in need of attention due to the damp weather and Forbes having been away on HMS Barracouta
(28 Oct 1822) Changing papers and arranging specimens. William Owen consulting on shore with the Portuguese about the 'Hollontontos'. A boat sent up a small river on the left branch towards King Kapell's [Mayeta] residence with Mr Daniel [?George Daniels, midshipman on HMS Leven] to survey and explore it, returning the same day
(29 Oct 1822) [Crossed out in pencil: 'employed much in the same manner as yesterday']. A boat going up the same river as the previous day with William Cutfield, Charles Lechmere and Alexander Vidal to visit King Kapell [Mayeta] but returning without seeing him. Fine clear weather since 26 Oct. Temperature 80 degrees in the shade. The vegetation progressing after rain. The vines planted on arrival coming into leaf. Few of the seeds sown appearing: 'probably they were injured on the passage, although frequently aired, turned and dried' [annotated: 'the extreme indolence of the Portuguese garrison was particularly evident in relation to the plants we endeavoured to propagate into their place for their advantage: they so neglected them that there were not one found one year afterwards']
(30 Oct 1822) Cloudy, rainy and colder with a south-easterly wind. Unable to go far from the observatory because of the 'Hollontontos' near Cheeringeena [Lourenco Marques, the Portuguese fort] ['near Cheeringeena' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'in Mafoomo [Mpfumo, Maputo, Mozambique]']. Collecting specimens when permitted by the rain. Finding two species of Epidendrum among the sand hills near the beach, neither in flower. Digging up roots of them and planting them in the observatory garden, hoping to obtain specimens. Collecting specimens of Myrtus and 'Eucalyptus?' (specimens 85 and 86), both with fragrant flowers: 'the other is more singular from its single kidney-shaped, long-clawed emarginated petal' and bent stamens
(31 Oct 1822) Arranging belongings at the observatory. Boarding HMS Leven in the evening with some of the baggage, having been advised to do so by the surgeon [Alick Osborne, surgeon on HMS Leven]. Experiencing some symptoms of fever. Several cases of fever on board
(1 Nov 1822) Arranging specimens and baggage brought on board in the cabin. Increasing symptoms of fever
(2 Nov 1822) The Cockburn under the command of Richard Owen [Richard Owen, lieutenant on HMS Leven and commander of the Cockburn] returning from the bay having taken soundings and other observations
(3 Nov 1822) Charles Lechmere boarding HMS Leven with his baggage, feeling unwell with similar symptoms of fever that had already killed two, and several others 'in a dangerous state'. Alexander Vidal and Henry Gibbons going out with sailors as guards to Reuben Point [Ponta Vermelha] to observe the transit of Mercury across the disc of the sun
(4 Nov 1822) At 8am, Alexander Vidal and the party returning, clouds having prevented them from making their observations. The Cockburn sailing at 4pm for Dundass River [Mbuluzi River] to procure wood and water
(5 Nov 1822) William Cutfield and Alexander Vidal leaving the ship at 10am on three 'well-armed' boats to survey the Moneyee River, 'or, as Captain Owen [William Owen] afterwards named it, King George's River [Komati River, Mozambique, South Africa and Swaziland]'. Vidal returning at 1pm with Mr Johnes [Edward Owen Johnes, lieutenant on HMS Leven and HMS Barracouta], Johnes having become ill. All the instruments from the observatory moved on board the ship. Henry Gibbons and most of the officers returning on board, it being judged safer than sleeping on shore. Gibbons becoming ill with fever 'immediately after he came on board'. The cases of fever increasing daily
(6 Nov 1822) William Owen sending Thomas Boteler with a party to visit King Kapell, the king of Temby [Mayeta, king of Tembe], taking gifts such as dungaree, tobacco and beads. Owen hoping to 'obtain the use of some of his subjects' to help in procuring wood and water and to assist 'in the more exposed and laborious part of the service, in order to preserve his own men who were every day adding to the list of cases of fever'. Owen intending to sail to the open sea or into the bay, 'where the air was more clear for the recovery of the sick'. None of the crew sleeping on shore any longer, and communication with the shore limited to obtaining necessary supplies. The weather rainy and cloudy on the days preceding and following, the atmosphere humid. Barometer 29.81, thermometer 79°
(7 Nov 1822) Being able to observe from the ship the rapid progress of the vegetation: 'the trees all bursting into leaf and flower, the grass and every species of herbage and undershrub appearing more luxuriant every day'. Unable to go on shore due to the fever. Recovering, but William Owen having 'almost forbidden' communication with the shore: 'nor could anyone land without being struck with the idea that the atmosphere was polluted'
(8 Nov 1822) William Mudge and George Hood going on shore at 1am with 'the necessary instruments' to observe an immersion of one of Jupiter's satellites. At 9pm, a party going on shore to observe an emersion of Jupiter's first satellite
(9 Nov 1822) Charles Lechmere 'departed this life', the surgeons having given up 'all hopes of his recovery' in the past days. Lechmere having suffered from the fever, his symptoms becoming more severe, with delirium, hiccups, occasional remission of fever, 'produced by a violent initiation of the stomach, which baffles all medical aid we are at present acquainted with. Captain Lechmere was a remarkably stout, healthy man, but was only afflicted with this fatal disease [for] seven days'
(10 Nov 1822) The funeral of Charles Lechmere, the body being interred near the Portuguese fort with military honours
(11 Nov 1822) Sailing down the river at 9am. Anchoring at 10am off Rheuben Point [Ponta Vermelha], being prevented from going further by the sea breeze. The number of patients increasing daily
(12 Nov 1822) Sailing further along the river. Barometer 29.82, thermometer 79.30°
(13 Nov 1822) The weather cloudy with squalls and rain. Seeing elephants making 'a great destruction of the rice and Indian corn in the neighbourhood of the Portuguese fort', or around Mafooma [annotated: '& Mawbota [Mpfumo, Maputo, Mozambique]']. Barometer 30.00, thermometer 75.60°
(14 Nov 1822) Another sailor on HMS Leven dying of fever. The weather continuing similar. Barometer 30.10, thermometer 75.5°
(15 Nov 1822) The 'natives' sent by King Kapell [Mayeta] to William Owen being employed in the boats to fetch wood and water from the tender brought from Dundass River [Mbuluzi River], in order to provide supplies for sailing and 'otherwise to preserve our own ships' companies'. Cases of fever increasing daily. The weather cloudy and 'close' with some occasional rain. Barometer 30.06, thermometer 72°
(16 Nov 1822) The [annotated: 'red mangrove'] wood brought by the schooner being mostly green and the bark needing to be stripped off it, the sap staining everything 'a purplish red, and it had likewise a good deal of the astringent or tanning principle in it'. Being informed by the Portuguese that the bark was used for staining and dying, both 'by themselves as well as the natives'. The wood bitter, and 'no doubt an excellent tonic [annotated: 'perhaps a good substitute for quinquina [cinchona tree or bark, used to produce quinine]'] [annotated by Forbes: 'some further information respecting the qualities and properties of this wood and bark would be very interesting, unfortunately the gentlemen who cut it did not think to bring down with them even as much as a twig or leaf, that we remain quite in the dark as to what it is. Captain Owen [William Owen] intended to have sent a boat up to collect some specimens of it on our second call at Delagoa [Maputo Bay], but the misfortune with the schooner, want of men & short stay prevented him from doing so. JF']
(17 Nov 1822) The weather cloudy with occasional rain. Barometer 29.90, thermometer 79°. The crew busy acquiring provisions and making preparations for sailing
(18 Nov 1822) One of the survey boats returning, with George Daniels in command, bringing a member of the Barracouta crew 'in a dangerous state of fever'. The man dying [annotated: 'next day']. Others experiencing slight fever attacks as well, but recovering after being given 'large and frequent [crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'a few small'] doses of Calomel [mercurous chloride used as a purgative and to treat yellow fever and malaria] and hot tea' [annotated: '& covering them well up in the bottom of the boat']
(19 Nov 1822) Weighing anchor at 7am, assisted by 26 men from the Barracouta and the Cockburn, many of the crew of HMS Leven being ill or away on the survey boats. The other vessels having avoided the fever, apart from one or two cases on the Barracouta. Anchoring before noon off Shefean Island [Ilhas Xefina, Mozambique]
William Cutfield and Alexander Vidal returning from their survey of King George's River [Komati River], having travelled 70 miles up the river, passing through the dominions of five different kings. The river flowing into Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay] near the island, running north-east for about 200 miles. The river similar to the other rivers flowing into the bay, with banks occasionally overflowing and sandy clay cliffs elsewhere, and occasional woods. The water much shallower [crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'more intricate and shifting'], only 11 feet of water at low tide and 22 feet at high tide, the water becoming 'perfectly fresh and sweet' about four or five miles from the mouth, with strong currents making it difficult to navigate. The depth of water varying [annotated: '[from] ten fathoms to two']
The boats being prevented from proceeding up the river by 'their orders, and provisions were only for fourteen days', the crew having been informed by the 'natives' that it would take 'several moons' [crossed out in pencil: 'it seems from this that these people like most savage nations reckon their time by the moon']
On their arrival in the kingdom of Mamalungoo [?Maputo Bay, Mozambique], the party noticing all the 'natives' had left their huts and fled to the other side of the river 'to avoid the Vatways', who were approaching the village 'to the number of three of four thousand' [annotated: 'marching in excellent order and in single file']: 'the name that these marauders have acquired and the ravages they have committed, has filled the minds of the neighbouring tribes with as much fear as if an Alexander or a Caesar was coming among them'. The boats anchoring to await 'what they already considered our enemies. Through the interpreter, Captain Cutfield informed them that unless three hostages were given up to him, he should consider them as foes and should fire at them whenever he saw them. He also ordered them to leave that village immediately […] They were very much afraid of our firearms, for on one of the gentlemen taking up a spyglass [small telescope] to look at some of them that had not advanced so near, those that were nearer retreated in the utmost confusion, screaming and falling over each other. We had another instance of their perfidy on this occasion. They wished Captain Cutfield to take them across the river in his boats, and when they had robbed the people on the other side, they would divide the spoil with him. This proposal of course he peremptorily refused'
Forbes having recovered sufficiently for William Owen to offer him a boat to go to Shefean Island to collect plants. Leaving early in the morning, it being the best time before the sun became too hot. The island probably having been formed by mud and land brought down by the river and sand accumulated by the wind, forming hillocks on the south, west and north sides, with the side facing the mouth of the river low and covered with mangrove trees, and being elsewhere 'thickly wooded' with a variety of shrubs, probably originating from seeds brought from the interior of the country by the river. Not finding many plants he had not seen before, but collecting some 'very curious and beautiful' specimens (specimens 95, 96, 91, 92, 99 and 100). The weather cloudy with light breezes and rain. Barometer 29.90, thermometer 78°
(20 Nov 1822) Returning to the island to improve the collection, but being unable to land due to the heavy surf. Arranging specimens. William Cutfield coming down in his boat from the Barracouta in English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo], 'as that vessel was not yet quite ready for sea'. William Owen going to Shefean Island [Ilhas Xefina] to fix a station for taking angles: 'they marked out one which Captain Owen afterwards called Timpson's Station, after the carpenter [John Timpson, carpenter on HMS Leven] who died the following morning and was interred near it'. Owen bringing back a plant of a beautiful species of Epidendrum, not in blossom, found growing on trees 'in which he got entangled and almost lost his way'. 'Light air' with rain. Barometer 30.00, thermometer 79°
(21 Nov 1822) Light breezes. Barometer 29.74, thermometer 88°
(22 Nov 1822) The Barracouta and the Cockburn leaving their anchorage in English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo], anchoring near HMS Leven
(23 Nov 1822) The Barracouta and the Cockburn being sent 'one to the south by east, the other east by south' from the anchorage to determine the distance by sound, for surveying the Bay [Maputo Bay]: 'Massey's patent watches [a stopwatch] were used on this occasion, guns fired, and the difference of time between the flash and the report noted, which gave the exact distance, calculated by the velocity of sound, which is at the rate of 1,142 feet in a second of time. We found it near 1,160, a difference of 18 feet for each second'
In the afternoon, whilst being 'under easy sail', taking soundings near St Mary's Island [Ilha da Inhaca], being surprised by a heavy southerly squall: 'the sails were furled as quick as the weak state of our ship's company would permit, and an anchor let go with chain cable which parted [broke] close to the anchor. Another anchor was then let go with a hemp cable which brought the ship up. The chain cable did not part at one of the links but at the shackle or bolt that fastens it to the anchor'. Barometer 29.72, thermometer 80.30°
(24 Nov 1822) Strong breezes, cloudy weather. Barometer 30.05, thermometer 78.30°
(25 Nov 1822) Sailing to look for the anchor lost on 23 Nov, finding it 'by the buoy, attached to it'. Barometer 29.98, thermometer 76.30°
(26 Nov 1822) 'Today we added two more to our dead list, one man and Lieutenant Henry A. Gibbons'. Regretting the loss of Gibbons: 'his amiable manner and excellent disposition made him esteemed by everyone who knew him'. William Owen feeling the loss, having high esteem for Gibbons, 'as an officer, a mathematician and astronomical observer' [crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'and was charged with the duties of astronomer']. Barometer 30.02, thermometer 77.00°
(27 Nov 1822) Going on shore to Elephant Island [Ilha dos Portugueses, Mozambique] to inter the body of Henry Gibbons. William Owen afterwards naming the location Point Gibbons [annotated: 'In digging his grave, most excellent fresh [left blank] was found to abound everywhere, the same was found also to be the case on Shefeen [Ilhas Xefina] and undoubtedly on all the beach which forms the left bank of King George River [Komati River]']. The island similar to Shefean Island
(28 Nov 1822) Weighing anchor. At 9am, the water 'suddenly became shoal and the anchor was let go in three fathoms and a half', the ship occasionally touching the bottom of the river. The Barracouta anchoring nearby in deeper water, hauling out HMS Leven. At 4pm, sailing across the bay to the anchorage left on 23 Nov [annotated: 'Captain Cutfield [William Cutfield] was on board the Leven, sick with the fever']
(29 Nov 1822) William Owen preparing to go to sea as early as possible due to the fever among the crew and the numerous deaths on board HMS Leven and the Barracouta, the fresh air ['fresh air' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'strong sea breeze'] in the bay having made no difference, 'as was anticipated by the surgeons', who expected the breeze in the large bay to have the same beneficial effects as out in the sea [crossed out in pencil: 'among the numerous dangerous cases of fever on board was Captain Cutfield [William Cutfield] of the Barracouta']
(Nov 30 1822) 'The quantity of water was completed this morning from the tender'. William Owen intending to leave the tender under the command of Richard Owen to finish the survey of the bay, the vessel having largely avoided the fever, 'with the exception of one or two caffers, both of which were almost quite recovered'. HMS Leven sailing from Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay] at 6.30pm.
William Cutfield dying in the morning, one of five having died in the space of 24 hours on board the Leven and two on the Barracouta. Alexander Vidal being appointed captain of the Barracouta, among numerous staffing changes. 'We could not leave this place without considerable emotion for the loss of so many of our companions, but I believe all, both sick and well, were happy to get out of a place where, if we had remained, threatened nothing less than our annihilation'. It being the rainy season, 'and what is considered the sickly season, but if Captain Owen had been aware it would have been half so fatal, he would not have remained for any longer than to wood & water'. Hardly any cases of fever during the first month. The first case being William Boys Tambs, who had travelled up the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo] in one of the boats, after which men fell ill almost every day, with the majority of the victims having slept on shore at the observatory or been up the river. The night air being considered more dangerous, with those having slept on board less affected [annotated: 'in our later cases however this distinction ceased, for many of those who died had never slept on shore or in the boats']
[Pages 105-111] 'Some remarks on the soil and vegetable productions of Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay] and adjacent country'. The soil in general light red and sandy, sometimes with gravel. Riverbanks seasonally flooding, with 'deep, muddy antediluvian ['antediluvian' crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'alluvial'] earth', with potential to be as productive as the banks of the Nile [Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Kenya, Ethiopia, Eritrea, South Sudan, Republic of the Sudan and Egypt]. None of the land cultivated, the 'inhabitants' however taking advantage of land flooded by overflow from the numerous lakes, obtaining two crops annually of Indian corn [flint corn], millet grass and sweet potatoes, with one crop planted before the rainy season and the other afterwards. During the eight-month dry season, many plants being 'quite dormant', but progressing very quickly when the rains commenced
On arrival at the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo], the rainy season was about to commence, with some rain having fallen, but the weather staying largely dry for the first month: 'the general appearance of vegetation at this time was not unlike that of England in March or April after severe frosty wind', with only evergreen trees appearing uninjured. The soil and climate capable of producing 'almost every kind of tropical fruit and vegetable, as well as many European kinds'. The lack of rain for the majority of the year 'would no doubt be prejudicial to many of the plants of Europe', but with the possibility of choosing locations in which this could be avoided [annotated: 'and there are partial showers throughout the year']
The vegetables in cultivation being Indian corn (Zea mays) [flint corn], tomatoes or love apples (Solanum lycopersicum), 'a very degenerate kind of cabbage (Brassica oleraecea)', ginger (Zingebar officinale) [Zingiber officinale] and turmeric (Curcuma species) [here the list includes 5 more plants], with other vegetables growing wild
Cultivated fruits appearing 'more limited', with melons, pineapples, water melons and plantains 'the only kind that any attention is paid to', none being in season during Forbes' visit. The indigenous fruits all in season, with two apparently 'of the genera Crescentia?', one called macquaca [unidentified], forming 'a great part of their sustenance during times of scarcity', with the pulp and outer flesh of each seed being picked off, dried, pounded in a wooden mortar and mixed with Indian corn [flint corn] or rice [annotated: 'millet and kaffer corn [sorghum] are the most common articles of food, and the natives make from them a good but rather sour beer called pombe']. The other fruit [crossed out in pencil: 'I was not able to learn the name of this fruit, the natives call is calebash [calabash], but this name they have learned from the English sailors, who call all large round fruit calebash'] 'being usually larger, with smoother outside, softer pulp and 'a luscious, sweet taste. The natives eat it greedily, but it is not so agreeable to the taste of a European at first'. Both fruits spherical and about the size of 'a moderate sized apple' [crossed out in pencil and replaced with 'large orange'], with a thin outer skin and a thick hard shell enclosing the pulp and seed. Another fruit being oval shaped, larger than a pigeon's egg with a beautiful golden yellow colour, thin skin and 'delicate, melting' pulp surrounding the hard oval seed: 'this fruit is much superior to any other we tasted here and is certainly very delicious'. This fruit not as common as the other two fruits
Many of the trees and shrubs 'armed' with spines or pricks, 'or if not armed in this way, there is a degree of harshness or rigidity that amounts to [annotated: 'nearly'] the same thing' [crossed out in pencil: 'Although Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay] is not exactly within the tropics, its climate is certainly more that of the tropics than the extra-tropics']
[Pages 113-119] 'Vocabulary of the language spoken by the natives about the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo], Temby [Tembe, Mozambique] and the adjacent countries near Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay]'. [For another version of the vocabulary, 1822, see RHS/Col/3/1/6]. List of vocabulary and phrases [possibly in Ronga, also known as XiRonga, or a related language], with English translations, including 'wanoona, man', 'macopti, cabbage', 'ongladelley shillavai?, don't touch that', 'madrim, a liar' and 'shawanney, good day to you' [here the list includes approximately 160 more items], and numerals from one to twenty, including 'chinea, one', 'mabaysey, two', 'sejasais, three', 'moonay, four' and 'macoomey mabeysey, twenty. This last word seems also to denote any great number' [here the list includes 15 more items]
Extent - 1 volume
Repository - Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library
Copyright - Royal Horticultural Society
Credit Line - RHS Lindley Collections
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