Journals of John Forbes: Journal 1

Title

Journals of John Forbes: Journal 1

Record type

Archive

Original Reference

RHS/Col/3/1/1

Date

4 Feb 1822-1823

Scope & content

John Forbes' travel journal, 4 Feb-18 Aug 1822, describing the journey from England to Portugal, Madeira, Tenerife, Cabo Verde, Brazil and South Africa. The back of the journal records lists of specimens

Overview of contents:
Initial loose leaf with title 'Mr Forbes Journal, Contained in five books'
Pages 1-151: Narrative of travel, 4 Feb-18 Aug 1822
Pages 152-181: Blank
Pages 182-184: 'Seeds, continued', specimens 41-61
Pages 185-187: Blank
Page 188: 'Birds, Delagoa Bay, 1823', specimens 59-62; 'Algoa Bay, 1823', specimens 63-70
Pages 189-191: Blank
Pages 192-194: 'Case of Green Glass Jars No 21'
Pages 195-197: Blank
Page 198: 'Plants in soil'
Page 199: Blank
Pages 200-206: 'Insects, Delagoa Bay'
Page 207: Blank
Pages 208-210: 'Seeds, Delagoa Bay', 'St Mary's Madagascar'
Pages 211-216: 'Birds (Delagoa Bay)', 'Isle of Saint Mary, East Coast Madagascar', 'Mozambique', 'Delagoa Bay 1823'
Pages 217-219: Blank
Page 220: 'Specimens of Rocks, Cape G Hope', 'Rocks Island Saint Mary, East Coast of Madagascar'

Physical description: Bound in hard covers with marbled paper sides in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Covers and pages are all attached but the binding is weak and breaking. Pages are reasonably robust. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 32.5 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm

There is a partial transcript of this volume at RHS Lindley Library, classmark 910(6M)SUT

This journal appears to be Forbes' original journal, written in his hand and with his own pencil annotations. For a copy of entries from 4 Feb-30 Apr 1822, see the second part of Forbes' journal, RHS/Col/3/1/2 (a reference is made on 30 Apr 1822 to a copy of a part of the journal having been sent to London from Brazil, believed to be RHS/Col/3/1/2)

The journal is annotated in pencil by Forbes (unless otherwise indicated), with marginal and interlinear annotations, annotations on the blank verso pages, corrections and crossings out. The more substantial annotations have been included and identified in the description, whilst minor alterations of spelling or phrasing have not been noted

The volume was reversed, with lists of specimens written at the back of the journal

The volume is written on rectos only

The journal contains headings by location. In many places, the exact distances, measures and names were left blank and filled in later in ink or in pencil in the same hand, sometimes with details crossed out and corrected. There are also blank spaces left to be filled, often for specifying the species or name of a specimen of plant or an animal

Original foliation 1-75 is on the upper right-hand corner of rectos. The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing

Summary of contents:

(4 Feb 1822) Boarding HMS Leven in Spithead, having previously brought belongings on board at Woolwich while the ship was being fitted out

(6 Feb 1822) Boarding HMS Barracouta to deliver a letter from Mr Brookes [unidentified] to Buchannan [John Buchannan, assistant surgeon on HMS Barracouta], Osborne [Alick Osborne, surgeon on HMS Leven] and Connolly [Thomas Connolly, assistant surgeon on HMS Leven]

(7 Feb 1822) On board all day. Seeing a shoal of porpoises in the bay

(8 Feb 1822) Anchoring at Portsmouth. Going on shore to purchase shot gun flints and 'other necessaries'

(11 Feb 1822) Sailing from Spithead. Passing the 'beautiful and picturesque' Isle of Wight. Anchoring off Cowes

(13 Feb 1822) Sailing from Cowes. Passing through the Needles. Seeing seabirds, possibly shags (Pelecanus gracilis) on the white cliffs: 'imposing appearance'. Passing St Alban's Head. Seeing the light on Portland Point [Portland Bill lighthouse] in the evening

(14 Feb 1822) Losing sight of England with Start Point in Devonshire. A pleasant and uneventful passage

(19 Feb 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Finisterre [Spain]

(20 Feb 1822) Passing the town of Vianna [Viana do Castelo, Portugal] at the mouth of the River Lima [Limia, Portugal]. The country to the north of the town hilly, rocky and barren, with cultivated land along the shore. The houses mostly white and low, scattered among the cultivated land and trees. Seeing the Aqueduct of Villa do Condi [Santa Clara Aqueduct, Vila do Conde, Portugal], but being too far away to estimate its length: 'it appeared to be upwards of a mile' [crossed out in pencil: 'I understand it is for the purpose of conveying water to the town']. The coast lower and more open further ahead

(21 Feb 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Carveoira (Peniche) [Cabo Carvoeiro, Peniche, Portugal] and Burling's Rocks [Berlengas archipelago, Portugal] five or six miles from the land. Passing the town of Ericeira [Portugal] in the afternoon. The houses mostly white, standing 'apparently without any order or regularity'. Seeing on the hill the famous Church and Convent of Mafra [Portugal], about 820 feet in length, presenting 'a very striking object from the sea'. Coming in sight of Cape Roca [Cabo da Roca, Portugal] with its lofty rugged mountains [some text crossed out and annotated: 'of Cintra [Sintra, Portugal], rendered famous by the circumstances of the late war[?]'] behind it, on the sides of which were situated many villages. The coast from Peniche steep and barren, 'seemed to be well calculated for the geologist', but having no opportunity to examine it. Anchoring at the mouth of the river Tagus [Portugal] in the evening

(22 Feb 1822) The wind changing to easterly gales preventing the ship from getting near the land until the morning [annotated: 'under Cape Espichel [Cabo Espichel, Portugal]']

(23 Feb 1822) The wind more moderate. Taking a pilot on board and proceeding up the river Tagus. Anchoring in the afternoon [annotated: 'to the E [east] of the city']. Boarding a boat to go on shore to deliver a letter to Mr Jeffery [John Jeffery, British consul in Portugal] at Belam [Belem, Lisbon, Portugal]: 'he received me very kindly and promised me every assistance'

Seeing for the first time fences composed of Agave americana 'and the striped variety', growing with Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica]. Seeing other trees with a dry, dull appearance, discovering them to be olive (Olea europaea) and cork (Quercus suber) trees, and seeing for the first time in open air some beautiful palm trees (Phoenix dactylifera). Lisbon 'pretty', the houses all of white stone or whitewashed, but with 'a great sameness in it from the want of spires to the churches', the locals being afraid to build them, being afraid of the frequent earthquakes. Seeing Old Lisbon on the other side of the river, destroyed by an earthquake in 1755, a 'sad specimen of the effects of these dreadful phenomena'

(24 Feb 1822) Sunday. Visiting the aqueduct [Aqueduto das Aguas Livres, Lisbon, Portugal]. Discovering its length to be 3,450 feet, with its central arch 180 feet high and 20 feet in span. Seeing groves of orange trees with some fruits remaining, most having been gathered, almond trees in blossom and an Arum and Narcissus bulbocodium in flower. Oranges planted near brooks or in damp locations, being kept damp until the fruit ripened

(25 Feb 1822) Visiting the Botanic Garden at Adjuda [Ajuda, Lisbon]. Intending to deliver a letter to Mr Brotero [Felix de Avelar Brotero, director of the Ajuda Botanical Gardens in Lisbon], but not finding him. Being shown around the garden by the gardener in Brotero's absence. The collection of plants appearing limited and the garden looking 'slovenly'. The lower part of the garden laid out in squares by hedges of sweet bay (Laurus nobilis) but with few plants, 'except what nature sends'. The upper part a terrace with different shapes, squares and triangles, with one species of plants in each division. Seeing at the back a hothouse or old fashioned greenhouse, with plants already familiar in England, Forbes having seen better specimens of most. Seeing some fine specimens of cactus, already common in England

Being shown the museum attached to the garden, with an extensive and well-arranged collection of minerals, a zoological collection containing hippopotamus skins from the east coast of Africa and birds from South America ('a good collection but not in a very excellent state of preservation'), a well-preserved and extensive collection of fishes and a good collection of snakes: 'they are arranged without regard to system to please the eye, in cases with glass fronts', exposing them to light. Noting that the new royal palace nearby will be a 'magnificent' building when finished, composed of whitish-yellow polished limestone and with fine paintings in the rooms

(26 Feb 1822) Visiting Felix de Avelar Brotero again but not finding him. Leaving letters and 'the list' for him, and intending to visit again the following morning. Visiting John Jeffery's house, the former residence of Marshal Beresford [William Carr Beresford, general in the British Army and marshal in the Portuguese Army] to see his garden, with plants from Brazil, 'kept in better order than any I have seen about Lisbon'

(27 Feb 1822) Visiting Felix de Avelar Brotero. Finding him infirm with gout and old age: 'he was very kind and offered me plants of anything I wanted'. Being advised to visit Mr Correa [Abbe Jose Correia da Serra, naturalist and diplomat in Portugal]. Delivering a letter to him, and being promised assistance

(28 Feb 1822) Going [annotated: 'Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere, accompanying Captain William Owen on HMS Leven to study hydrography], Mr Johnes [Edward Owen Johnes, lieutenant on HMS Leven and HMS Barracouta] & myself'] across the bay to the other side of the river Tagus [Portugal] to shoot birds. Seeing only a few, common also in England. The land composed of sand covered in vineyards with plants cut and contorted to take root. Seeing pines (Pinus pinea), olives (Olea europaea), myrtles, Erica vulgaris [Calluna vulgaris] and Erica mediterranea [Erica herbacea] [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants], no grasses, and corn with a 'meagre appearance'. The trees covered with species of lichen, giving them a 'sickly look'

(1 Mar 1822) Going to the Botanic Garden to acquire plants. Felix de Avelar Brotero being unwell and asking Forbes to return the following day

(2 Mar 1822) Going to the Botanic Garden. Receiving over 40 kinds of plants and seeds of 23 plants from Felix de Avelar Brotero. Taking the plants to John Jeffery's house to pack them along with Brazilian plants from William Carr Beresford's garden

(3 Mar 1822) Packing plants. Procuring several Portuguese vines, grown for their fruit rather than for making wine

(4 Mar 1822) Preparing to leave Lisbon. Packing up a copy of the first part of this journal. Writing letters to England [annotated: 'and left them with Mr Jeffery, along with the copy of the journal to be forwarded to the secretary of the Society [Joseph Sabine, secretary of the Horticultural Society]. Purchasing more camphor. Sailing down the river and anchoring at Belam [Belem]

(5 Mar 1822) Sailing from the Tagus with a fair wind: 'bid adieu to the shores of Europe. For a time after this nothing in particular occurred'

(8 Mar 1822) Passing Porto Santo [Portugal] and Desertas Islands [Portugal]. Anchoring at Madeira [Portugal] in the afternoon. Going on shore with a letter to Mr Veitch [Henry Veitch, British consul in Madeira]. Visiting Veitch's garden. Seeing for the first time in the open ground mango (Mangifera indica), granadilla (Passiflora quadrangularis), guava (Psidium pyriferum, Psidium pomiferum) [Psidium guajava], pineapples ('but they look starved and sickly') and tamarind (Tamarindus indicus) [here the journal includes a list of 6 more plants]. In another garden 'belonging to a Portuguese gentleman', seeing cocoa nut [coconut] (Cocos nucifera) and alligator pear (Laurus persea) [avocado, Laurus americana]. Boarding the ship to prepare for a trip to the interior of the island the following day

(9 Mar 1822) Leaving Funchal [Madeira] with Lieutenant Boteler [Thomas Boteler, second lieutenant on HMS Leven and first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta] and some other officers from the ship for the village of Camera de Lobos [Camara de Lobos, Madeira]. Staying at Henry Veitch's house overnight.

Mostly vines being cultivated, with only the south side of the island producing fine wine [annotated: 'remarks on the culture of the vine']. Planting of vines involving 'great pains' with trenching of the ground to a depth of three or four feet [annotated: 'and sometimes even as deep as seven feet, to a foundation of solid lava'], planting two- or three-year old plants at the bottom and making a horizontal trellis of the stalks of Arundo donax overhead, to which the vines are trained. The vineyards being situated to take advantage of the water and the hilly location with streams of water available in dry weather. The vines planted in rows four feet apart with plants two feet apart within the rows and no manure used.

Seeing along the roadsides and in the hedges two species of cactus, Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica] and humilis [Opuntia tuna], and in the damp ground near the brooks [annotated: 'eddoe or'] Arum esculentum [Colocasia esculenta], one of the chief vegetables on the island, planted eight or nine inches apart and covered in water to discourage weeds, being dug up after 10 months and the larger tubers selected. Bananas (Musa sapientum) cultivated in similar locations, producing fine fruits. The largest trees being Laurus indica [Persea indica] and foetens [Ocotea foetens] and chestnut (Castanea vesca).

Arriving in the evening at the Jardin [Quinta Jardim da Serra, Veitch's house], beautifully located at the top of a deep valley. Staying for the night. Setting out in the morning for the Valley of the Coral [Curral das Freiras, Madeira] [annotated: 'Curral is a Portuguese word signifying a fold, or sheep fold, & this part here named the Coral may be supposed to resemble one, being a very deep valley surrounded on all sides by stupendous mountains']

(10 Mar 1822) Leaving Henry Veitch's house in the morning [annotated: 'intending to ascend the highest peak']: 'the road now became very indifferent'. The main shrubs being some species of Rubus and the common broom (Spartium scoparium) [Scotch broom, Cytisus scoparius]. Stopping for views at 3,994 feet above sea level: 'the sight was sublime', with clouds beneath and the tops of the rugged mountains above them. The rocks covered with Lycopodium hispidum [Selaginella hispida] (specimen 11) and Sempervivum canariense [Aeonium canariense], with trees of Laurus foetens [Ocotea foetens] and Erica viridipurpurea [Erica erigena], some two feet in diameter. Reaching an altitude of 4,271 feet. Descending into the Valley of the Curral [Curral das Freiras] by a rugged, almost perpendicular road cut in the mountain, crossing a brook and ascending a similar road on the other side, cut on the face of the damp rock. Collecting specimens and plants of Adiantum reniforme. Reaching the top of the hill between 4pm and 5pm. Returning to Funchal at 7pm. Seeing a few birds, also common in England, and not many insects

(11 Mar 1822) Arranging the plants collected the previous day and planting them in Henry Veitch's garden. Collecting seeds and flowers from the garden for botanical lectures on board

(12 Mar 1822) Visiting Mr Keear's[?] garden. Seeing many fine plants, including Bignonia pandorea [Pandorea pandorana], Bignonia capreolata, Solandra grandiflora and Passiflora incarnata [Passiflora edulis] in flower. Collecting more flowers for the lectures on board. Writing letters to leave with Henry Veitch. Preparing to leave Madeira the following morning

(13 Mar 1822) Sailing from Funchal in the morning with a light breeze. Losing sight of Madeira during the night

(15 Mar 1822) Passing the islands of Alegranza [Spain] and Lancerota [Lanzarote, Spain] to the east in the afternoon. The islands appearing barren and 'incapable of cultivation, being nothing but bare rocks'

(16 Mar 1822) Passing the island of Forteventura [Fuerteventura, Spain]. Coming in sight of Teneriffe [Tenerife, Spain], seeing the Peak [Pico del Teide, Tenerife] covered in snow. Anchoring at 7pm

(17 Mar 1822) Going on shore to make arrangements with the vice-consul [John Duplan, British vice-consul in Tenerife] to visit the interior of the island the following day. Staying on board the ship and preparing for an early start in the morning

(18 Mar 1822) Going on shore at 6.30am for breakfast. Proceeding towards the town of Laguna [La Laguna, Tenerife], about one and a half miles from Santa Cruz [Tenerife]. Going up a deep narrow valley with banks covered with Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica] and Agave americana. Collecting plants and catching several species of insects. Birds scarce in that part of the island. The land well cultivated with two or three crops per year, but not many vineyards. Arriving at Laguna for refreshments for the party and the horses. Returning to Santa Cruz at 8pm

(19 Mar 1822) Visiting gardens near Santa Cruz: 'horticulture is but little attended to', with few plants in the gardens. Recruiting Mr Lorenzo Pastor [Lorenzo Pastor Castro] as a Horticultural Society correspondent [annotated: 'Mr Pastor is an enlightened merchant, who has visited most parts of North America, well informed on all subjects of natural history and has made some excellent collections, his correspondence likely [to] be beneficial to the society']

(20 Mar 1822) Writing letters and delivering them to the vice-consul John Duplan. Sailing from Santa Cruz

(22 Mar 1822) Latitude 24°9'N. Seeing the first sea nettles or Portuguese men of war (Medusa caravella) [Physalia physalis]. Catching two and preserving them in spirits. Touching the tentacles causing a stinging sensation similar to that of 'cowitch' [annotated: 'cowage'], making everyone afraid to touch them, but some sailors suffering for their curiosity. Some of the tentacles up to 12 feet long but so fragile that it was impossible to preserve one of such length [annotated: 'No 1 of No 1 jar']. Crossing the Tropic of Cancer in the evening

(24 Mar 1822) Seeing the first flying fish (Exocoetus volitans), a tropical bird Phaeton aethereus [Phaethon aethereus] and some stormy petrels (Procellaria pelagieasus) [Hydrobates pelagicus], generally considered an omen for bad weather by sailors. The weather continuing fine. Seeing large numbers of Medusa caravella [Physalia physalis]

(25 Mar 1822) Coming in sight of Sal [Republic of Cabo Verde]: 'certainly the barrenest of any of this groups of islands we visited'. Anchoring south-east of Lionshead Hill [Lions Head Mountain, Sal] ('so called from some supposed resemblance to the head of that animal'). Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven] wanting to make observations and to leave a party for observing rockets later fired from the island of St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau, Cabo Verde], to be collected later by HMS Barracouta

Going on shore with Thomas Boteler and Edward Johnes to collect plants and 'other objects of natural history'. Going across the island to see the saltpan at the north-east side of the island, a large almost circular hollow covering about half an acre. The saltpan surrounded by hills 'of moderate height', with a pink appearance from above and little or no water in it. The crust of salt over the mud an inch or two thick, of excellent quality and a 'singular' appearance contrasting with the barren and burnt surface of the rest of the island [annotated: 'Mr Mudge [William Mudge, first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta, later on HMS Leven] measured this basin and found it to contain near 30 acres, 150 feet above the sea' and 'the surface of the salt pan above the level of the sea is 97 feet' and 'Mr Vidal [Alexander Vidal] not correct']. Not finding many plants, the only shrub being a species of Gnaphalium, growing 12-18 inches high. Owen being more fortunate and finding one in flower, and giving it to Forbes along with other plants he had collected. Another shrub a species of [annotated: 'Cassia'] growing in the bed of a dry rivulet. The land appearing not to have had any rain for months, with plants burnt up. Being unable to find specimens of the grass with flowers or seeds, and unable to ascertain the principal vegetation on the island, any blades of grass having been eaten by the numerous goats: 'notwithstanding the barrenness of the land, I did not observe the least trace of cultivation in those parts we visited'

The island owned by Mr Marteina [Manuel Antonio Martins, governor of Cabo Verde and Guinea], with about 60 residents. The superintendent or governor living about a mile from the saltpan, but having no time to visit him. The island about 17 miles long and six wide. The only animals being goats, some donkeys and wild cats. Charles Lechmere shooting one of the cats the following day: 'it did not appear to differ in any respect from the domestic cat, only in its habits'. Picking up 'some marine productions' on the shore. A boat being sent for the party at sunset. Seeing insects including one or two species of Gryllus (specimens 1 and 2), collecting specimens. Seeing a species of Tetrao, larger than the common quail, but unable to get near enough to shoot them in the open plains. Procuring specimens of another small bird flying in flocks, tamer than the quails (specimen 1)

(26 Mar 1822) William Owen not intending to sail until the evening. Going on shore to the observation tent at the foot of Lionshead Hill [Lions Head Mountain] at the north-west corner of the island. Climbing up the west side of the hill, composed of small particles of burnt earth united together to form a light porous rock breaking off and rolling into the sea. The hill about 620 feet high, with the face towards the sea very steep due to the falling rocks and the waves. The only plant being the orchilla (Lichen rochella) [orchella, Roccella tinctoria], growing 'in all situations where the rocks remain stationary for any length of time' and collected for dyeing on the Cabo Verde Islands and the Canary Islands [Spain], being sent in large quantities to Europe. Finding specimens of a plant (specimen 1) on a flat, sandy piece of ground where the tide flows in stormy weather ('much finer than those I had gathered the day before'), but the dry season being the worst time for visiting

Seeing eagles (Falco ossifragus) [Haliaeetus albicilla] and kites along the coast. Seeing an eagle's nest near the landing place, composed of a quantity of sticks of all sizes, about eight feet across, built level with the ground on a projecting rock, with fish bones, shells and limbs of crabs lying around it, but no eggs or ['no eggs or' crossed out and replaced with 'one'] young ones in it [annotated: 'which Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere] shot']. The sticks from the nest 'furnished the gentlemen of the tent who were on shore taking observations with abundance of fuel for their fire for dressing their victuals at a much easier rate than they could possibly have procured it by any other means', without bringing wood from the ship or collecting it themselves: 'it would have been a work of great labour to have got as much as would have boiled a kettle of fish, of which the people in the boats caught abundance in the bay [annotated: 'with hook & line']'. Assuming the birds using driftwood on the beach for building their nests, washed from the other islands, there being no wood on the island. Observing the eagles hunting by watching the boobies (Pelecanus parvus) [unidentified] diving for fish, attacking them before they swallow the fish, catching it in their talons and flying to a nearby rock with their stolen booty. Charles Lechmere shooting one of the eagles, but not being able to preserve it, despite skinning it immediately, it being the moulting season. Noting that the eagles were difficult to kill except with a bullet or 'a whole charge of large shot', staying away from people as they did and being protected by their feathers from small shot. Shooting two hawks (specimen 2), numerous on the island, feeding on the many small lizards

Not finding any plant specimens on the hill. Returning to the rocky beach, covered with the coral Madrepora. Picking up Fucus algae and cuttlefish (Sepia) [Sepiida] (specimen 1 of jar 3): 'this animal which is of a flesh colour spotted with chestnut or liver coloured spots, but on being touched it seemed much irritated and changed its whole colour into a dirty livid white'. Finding a starfish (Asterias) (specimen 1 of jar 2), not having seen one before, and a brilliant scarlet coloured species of Madrepora (specimen 4 of jar 3). Thomas Boteler giving Forbes specimens of several minerals

Returning on board the ship, the recall signal having been hoisted. Sailing towards St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau]. Spending most of the night arranging specimens and preparing to go on shore the following morning. William Owen leaving Lieutenant Owen [Richard Owen, lieutenant on HMS Leven and commander of the Cockburn] and 'one of the young gentlemen' behind to observe the rockets to be fired from St Nicholas. William Owen suggesting Forbes join the party going to St Nicholas, the island being more fertile than the other islands and offering more variety than St Vincent [Sao Vicente, Cabo Verde], where the ship was bound

(27 Mar 1822) Coming in sight of St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau]. Lieutenant William Mudge from HMS Barracouta having joined HMS Leven to accompany the party on the island for firing rockets and taking observations for ascertaining the distance between the islands of St Nicholas, Sal and St Vincent [Sao Vicente]. The landing place a shallow bay on the west side of the island. Going on shore with Mudge, Charles Lechmere and others on a boat with provisions for three days. Stiff breeze and rough sea. Taking shoes and stockings off to get through the heavy surf, but having to put them back on reaching the hot sand, 'or our feet would have been blistered in a few minutes'

Dividing up into two parties to search for donkeys to carry the rocket provisions. Lechmere and Mudge finding a house under a projecting rock at the bottom of one of the deep dingles, with a woman 'who on observing them screamed out and ran off as fast as she could'. Seeing a man and asking him for donkeys. Receiving a dozen donkeys two hours later, with an equal number of men to drive and take care of them. Agreeing with them to be taken to the top of Monte Gurdo [Monte Gordo, Sao Nicolau], the highest mountain on the island, to fire the rockets. Arriving at the village of Praia Branca [Sao Nicolau] at sunset: 'I believe every human being in the village was out to see us'. The village consisting of about 30 stone dwellings thatched with reeds (Arundo donax). Pitching a tent above the village in an enclosure among Euphorbia balsamifera and Jatropha curcas trees. Procuring some refreshment and lying down to rest

[Annotated: 'the highest peak of St Nicholas, or Monte Gordo, was a station fixed on by Captain Owen [William Owen] from which to send up some rockets of various sizes to try their uses in measuring differences of longitude. This peak is upwards of seventy geographical miles from the Lion Head at Sal [Lions Head Mountain], where a party was left with Captain Cutfield of the Barracouta [William Cutfield, captain of HMS Barracouta] to observe them, and another party under Lieutenant Vidal [Alexander Vidal] was landed in a small cove (called Cat Cove) at the north extremity of St Vincent [Sao Vicente], not more than thirty-five miles distant from the peak. Had this peak's rockets been observed from Sal, St Vincent, distant about 110 miles, and the instances of their explosions marked by their times at each place, on watches previously regulated by the sun at the respective stations, the difference of longitude would have been exactly ascertained within half a second of them & consequently within 50 feet of the time distance would also have resulted thereupon']

(28 Mar 1822) Taking a walk around the camp to search for plants before breakfast. The scenery romantic, with a small run of water supplying the village below the camping place, with bananas and papaws [papaya] planted on the edge of the brook, and vines and cassava on the banks. The vineyards and cassava grounds laid out to be irrigated when required, with stone walls three feet high, a dam in the brook and water directed to run from one step to another. Vines planted and treated similarly, but with a horizontal trellis overhead to which they were trained. Sugar cane grown, but chewed by the locals instead of being made into sugar. Bread being made from cassava root and Indian corn [flint corn]. A plant, possibly a species of Phaseolus, being used for food by the locals. No flowers in season. Acquiring seeds in pods and out of the pod, 'in the state in which they are boiled and eaten by the natives' (specimen 14, seed list). Finding several curious plants

Receiving information that donkeys or assistance from locals would not be available without an order from the governor to the judge of the village, and having to wait for a messenger to inform the governor, living 10 or 12 miles away. In order for William Mudge to fire the rockets in the evening, having to travel 10 miles on a difficult and dangerous road: 'indeed it would have been impossible for the asses to have gone along with anything on their backs, for in many places we were obliged to hold on with our hands and creep on our knees', each man carrying an equal portion. The road running along a narrow passage almost perpendicular across the rock, with 'scarcely a breath of wind and almost a vertical sun'. Temperature 95 degrees in the shade. Several of the party finding it impossible to proceed with the weight. Paying two men working in a vineyard 'a trifling remuneration' for carrying part of the load. Having to leave some of the load behind, with an order for it to be sent when the messenger returned from the governor

Stopping by a spring after about a mile and a half. Finding several pretty plants, including a beautiful Campanula (specimen 35) in the rock crevices. Meeting a man who had been collecting orchilla [orchella] using a stem of Arundo donax 16 feet long with a wooden end cut in the shape of a hand to reach the plant on the rock face [annotated: 'where it was detached by pressing the fingers between its roots and the rocks']. The road becoming more difficult and the day hotter. Resting at the top of the passage at 1pm. Admiring the view from the head of three deep valleys surrounded by steep, rugged mountains and clouds below.

Reaching the village Ribeira do Calhao [Ribeira do Calhaus, Sao Nicolau] at the foot of Monte Gurdo [Monte Gordo, Sao Nicolau], with about a dozen dwellings. The people being 'very civil' and selling the party eggs, milk, bananas, papayas and sugar cane: 'we made a very hearty meal of these things though not a very comfortable one'. Being given two donkeys to carry luggage and water to the top of the mountain. The road from the village better but the day very hot. Going through woods of 'Euphorbia balsamifera?'

Reaching the summit after three hours. Being pleased to see a man following them with their tent and belongings: 'but for this we should have been obliged to sleep in the open air where the wind was very high and cold at night'. The mountain not forming a peak at the top but having a regular ascent from the bottom and an even surface, leading to its name Monte Gurdo or Fat Mountain. The soil and minerals on it having burnt, resembling small, fragile, porous pieces of cinder baked together. The summit covered in plants, including Buthalmum serecium [Asteriscus sericeus] (specimen 36) and Argemone (specimen 11). Euphorbia not growing above 3,700 feet. Fine views over the whole island. The height of the mountain by the barometer 4,380 feet. Temperature at the top 65°. Pitching the tent on flat ground under the lee of a rock, but being unable to sleep due to the wind blowing dust into their faces from the dry earth. William Mudge not firing the rockets due to the clouds, thinking they might not be seen from the other islands

(29 Mar 1822) Going down to the village to breakfast on tea and sugar brought with them, boiled up in an iron kettle with goat's milk and drunk from cups made of the rind of a pumpkin called callebash [calabash]: 'earthenware seem to be almost unknown here'. Going to search for plants, intending to collect them later. Catching several insects of the commonly found Gryllus [annotated: 'grasshopper or locust'], feeding on vegetables and in particular sugar cane. Seeing a 'poor variety' of birds, with kites (Falco milvus) [Milvus milvus] and carrion crows (Corvus corone) being most common. Seeing many guinea fowls, called galena by the locals: 'we killed two, they are very wild'. Returning by a different route to the top. Seeing no new plants apart from one beautiful plant (specimen 9) with panicles of dark blue flowers growing out of the dry rock

(30 Mar 1822) Firing the rockets between 1am and 3.30am [annotated: 'although the atmosphere on the summit of Monte Gordo was quite clear & beautiful, yet at this season of the year about these islands, particularly if no rain has fallen in the day, the lower strata of the atmosphere is rendered impervious to the view by a thick white haze, arising from the spray of the sea blown up by the trade winds, always very strong at this season, and by the evaporation, so that by day and the early part of the night, the land itself is seldom visible, except its highest summits, at more than two or three leagues […] It sometimes happens that this haze does not clear off all night & so it was this night, but [being] the last assigned to Lieutenant Mudge [William Mudge] for the experiment, he had no choice']. Hearing afterwards that due to the clouds the rockets were not seen either in Sal or St Vincent [Sao Vicente]. The launch succeeding otherwise: 'the large parachute was suspended in the air [annotated: 'about 5,000 feet above our heads'], upwards of six minutes'

Breakfasting at the summit. William Mudge taking observations. Forbes collecting plants and seeds, but not finding many as the season was not right for flowers or fruit: 'no doubt a great many are entirely invisible'. Passing through a wood of Euphorbia balsamifera, the main shrub on the island, growing 10 or 12 feet high and dried for fuel by the locals. Collecting plants including a beautiful species of Adiantum growing in crevices of stone walls surrounding a sugar plantation, similar to the vine and cassava plantations at Praya Branca [Praia Branca, Sao Nicolau], with sarmentose fronds taking root at the extremities and covering the front of the walls. Only seeing it in a single spot below the village of Ribeira do Calhao [Ribeira do Calhaus, Sao Nicolau] (specimen 21). Having their tent and other belongings brought down from the mountain. Pitching the tent under banana trees in the valley

(31 Mar 1822) Receiving a letter from the governor requesting a visit and offering assistance, but not having time to visit him. The governor sending nine donkeys on request to carry them and their baggage to the beach, from where HMS Barracouta would take them to St Vincent [Sao Vicente] to join HMS Leven. Packing and setting off at 8am. The road 'far from being good, but it was much better than the one we had come three days before'. Discovering no new plants. A signal fired from HMS Barracouta at 1pm. Reaching the beach an hour later and waiting for a boat to board the ship. St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau] more fertile than Sal, 'but the part we visited is far from being prolific'

Sailing from St Nicholas [the following note is written on an inserted leaf sealed onto the page: 'St Nicholas. The inhabitants here make soap from the oil obtained from the nuts of the Jatropha curcas and ashes of the burnt leaves of the papaw [papaya] tree. They mix the oil and ashes up together in an iron pot over a fire, stirring it constantly with a stick until it becomes of a proper consistency, they then allow it to cool and roll it up into balls about the size of a cricket ball, it is of a dark mottled colour and produces a very good lather']

(1 Apr 1822) Coming in sight of HMS Leven anchored in Porto Grande Bay [Sao Vicente]. William Owen hailing William Cutfield to inform him of their sailing for Terrafal Bay [Baya nga Tarrafal, Santiago, Cabo Verde] on the coast of St Antonio [Santo Antao, Cabo Verde]. Boarding the ship. Anchoring at Terra Sal in the evening. Spending the night arranging the specimens and articles collected on St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau]

(2 Apr 1822) Landing at Terrafal Bay [Baya nga Tarrafal] in the morning. [Annotated: 'owing to its being well watered'], the island offering more specimens of plants and seeds than the other islands, the most conspicuous and beautiful being the Asclepias procera (Calotropis procera). Being 'scarcely able' to collect ripe seeds, the plant growing near the shore among large stones or fallen rock fragments [annotated: 'its roots frequently refreshed in this situation'] with long roots deep into the earth, protecting it from prolonged drought. Its flower in full bloom. Collecting several insects, including mantis (specimen 1) in a cotton plantation

Boarding the boat, 'I had the mortification to get all my specimens and seeds wet' in the heavy surf. Ships calling at the port because of the good supply of fresh water. The village consisting of about a dozen houses at the foot of the valley in a grove of bananas and papaw [papaya] trees in the south-west corner of St Antonio [Santo Antao] [annotated: 'Captain Owen [William Owen] gave me some of the very few plants found at Porto Grande of St Vincent [Sao Vicente], amongst which was a salvia & a plant allied to borage, which do not appear to have been described. Also a lavender, which is the most common shrub, and indeed almost the only one growing there. It is found always in those situations which in the rainy season are flooded, and sometimes even to some heights on the hills']

(3 Apr 1822) Sailing from Terrafal [Baya nga Tarrafal]. Drying specimens and seeds collected the previous day

(4 Apr 1822) Coming in sight of St Jago [Santiago]. Anchoring at Porto Pria Bay [Porto Praia, Santiago] in the evening

(5 Apr 1822) Landing at St Jago [Santiago] in the morning. Going to a date palm (Phoenix dactylifera) plantation, the trees growing 30 feet high: 'they have [annotated: 'to me'] a most magnificent appearance'. Collecting several plants and seeds, including ripe seeds of Calotropis procera. William Owen, having landed in a different location, collecting specimens of Asclepias aphylla [Decanema bojerianum], growing out of the rocks at the beach. Going along the east side of the town. Collecting specimens and seeds. North-west of the town, finding another party from the ship shooting quails, common but similar to the ones in England. Going to another date plantation and finding several curious plants. The ground planted with cotton, dry due to lack of rain. Seeing tamarind trees with abundant fruit.

Catching several species of insects: 'the sting of one of them was very painful' (specimen 1), including several of the genus Gryllus. Kites, hawks and carrion crows common. Seeing a beautiful bird (specimen 1) in the date trees, not seen on the other islands, eating insects, in particular the Gryllus and Libellula dragonflies: 'in the mouth of one that we shot we found almost a whole dragonfly, and on opening them I found almost whole insects'. Boarding the ship, Owen having received the livestock and vegetables for which the ship had anchored. Sailing from St Jago

(9 Apr 1822) Latitude 6°40'N, longitude 19°54'30''W: 'we had the sun vertical'. Seeing stormy petrels (Procellaria pelagica) [Hydrobates pelagicus] skimming along the surface of the water

(10 Apr 1822) Oppressive heat, particularly in the lower part of the ship. Temperature 82.5°. Seeing dolphins chasing flying fish, rising out of the water 'in flocks to escape their merciless pursuers'

(11 Apr 1822) Latitude 2°52'N, longitude 19°40'W. Torrential rain, the first rain since leaving England, with thunder and lightning and a favourable north-easterly trade wind

(12 Apr 1822) The ship becalmed. At 11am all hands turned up to bathe and boats lowered down ready in case of an accident. Men plunging into the water, but soon ordered to get in the boats for fear of sharks, on two large fish seeing approaching: 'in about a minute all hands were out of danger from these monsters' [annotated and crossed out: 'which however were decided to be barracoutas [barracuda], not sharks']. Hooks and lines being thrown over board to catch the fish but without success. The fish resembling in shape the common pike (Esox lucius), but with their heads and noses considerably longer in proportion, and seeming to be about four feet six inches long, with dark brown spots on the back and forked tails: 'these fish had no doubt been attracted by the men, for we never saw any of them but at this time'. Torrential rain in the evening

(13 Apr 1822) The ship becalmed: 'about noon a little breeze sprang up but soon died away again'. At 5pm a squall with torrential rain and thunder and lightning all evening. Having difficulties in keeping the specimens from becoming mouldy and rotting: 'with changing the paper twice a day I could scarcely preserve some of them'. Fine specimens of the Calotropis procera (giant milkweed) being spoiled during the night. In the humid and warm atmosphere mould growing easily, even polished steel rusting within a few days

(14 Apr 1822) A light breeze. Approaching the Equator: 'as is customary the evening before the shaving day to hail the ship, that is, to announce the ceremonies that are to take place the following day'. Being hailed by one of the seamen in the character of Neptune [Forbes is referring to the line-crossing ceremony, a naval tradition performed on persons first crossing the Equator and often involving the figure of Neptune, the Roman god of sea]

(15 Apr 1822) Shaving and ducking performed on those who had not crossed the Equator before. Entering the southern hemisphere about 7.30pm

(16 Apr 1822) South-easterly trade wind. Sailing towards the island of Martin Vas and Trinidad [Trindade and Martin Vaz, Brazil]

(25 Apr 1822) Seeing birds including stormy petrels [storm petrel] and noddies. Coming in sight of Rocks of Martin Vas [Trindade and Martin Vaz] with five rocks, the largest in the centre. The rocks barren, the largest not more than a quarter of a mile in circumference, inhabited by sea birds. Coming in sight of Trinidad [Trindade and Martin Vaz] to the west in the afternoon. Alexander Vidal measuring the location of Trinidad at latitude 20°31'00''S, longitude 29°23'12''W

(26 Apr 1822) Taking observations. The island barren and seemingly formed of basaltic rocks. Seeing some plants on the more level places and some bare trees [annotated: 'or cacti'] on the tops of the hills. William Owen not landing on the island, preventing Forbes from collecting specimens. Sailing from Trinidad [Trindade and Martin Vaz]

(30 Apr 1822) Coming in sight of South America and Cape Frio [Cabo Frio, Brazil], 'but the wind blew very fresh from the land [annotated: 'and the weather so thick']'. Being unable to land until the following afternoon. Vivid lightning in the night with thunder and rain [annotated: 'the wind being about south']

[Annotated: 'copy of the above sent from Rio [Rio de Janeiro, Brazil]']

(1 May 1822) Entering the harbour of Rio de Janeiro and anchoring at St Sebastian [Rio de Janeiro]: 'the entrance to the harbour is so magnificent and beautiful that one is struck with admiration' on seeing the expanse of water, the inlets and islands, the green of the hills, the villas and the mountains. Being anxious to get on shore the following morning. Anticipating 'a rich harvest from the luxuriant appearance of the vegetation, and was by no means disappointed'. It being mid-winter, another season would have been more fruitful. The temperature rarely below 64°, and sometimes 80° or 84° in the shade. Frequent rain. Many plants not in flower or fruit

(2 May 1822) Preparing to go on shore. Being met by Dr Dickson [John Dickson, British Royal Navy surgeon in Brazil], 'to whom I had letters of introduction'. Dickson offering Owen the use of rooms in his house, but Forbes given the rooms, Owen intending to reside on the ship. Delivering letters to Mr Cunningham [Alexander Cunningham, deputy consul in the absence of Henry Chamberlain, British consul-general in Brazil]: 'I experienced the greatest kindness from this gentleman during our stay here, when I had been out on an excursion I could at any time make his house my home and was at all times most hospitably received'

The town of St Sebastian located to the left of the harbour and surrounded by hills, with a church and a convent on top of each. The streets regular and intersecting each other at right angles, about 20 or 24 feet wide with a channel in the middle, making them dirty and wet: 'the water is sometimes so deep in them that canoes can paddle about in them'. The houses of merchants and 'principal inhabitants' built two or three stories high with balconies, 'over which the Portuguese loll from morning to night frequently half dressed, and seem to amuse themselves by spitting into the streets'. The houses of the 'lower orders' built in one story with lattice windows opening upwards, 'from under which the inmates peep and indulge in the same indolent propensity as the more wealthy neighbours'. All labour performed by 'negroes of all the tribes of Southern Africa', including Mozambique, Angola and Congo, constituting the majority of the population of the city: 'the slave trade is here carried on to a great extent. I was informed that not less than 20,000 slaves were sold in Rio market within the last twelve months'

(3 May 1822) Taking papers, presses and collecting boxes on shore to John Dickson's house. Delivering letters to Father Leandro do Sacramento [Carmelite friar and botanist in Brazil] and seeing his extensive and well-preserved collection of birds and insects. Visiting the Public Garden under his charge. Being informed that 'at one time it was in pretty good order and a tolerable collection of plants', but having fallen into decay after the king left San Sebastian, 'for want of some proper person to look after it'. The garden now improving under do Sacramento with more plants, including fine mango and Mespilus iaponicus [Eriobotrya japonica] trees, the dense mango foliage forming a pleasant shade in the heat. Many parts of the garden under water. Seeing trees with Tillandsia, Epidendrum, Polypodium and other parasites growing on them

(4 May 1822) Being introduced by Captain Prescot [Henry Prescott, captain of HMS Aurora] to a Spanish gentleman called Senhor Gervasio Algarate [Gervasio Algarate, botanist in Brazil]: 'he was tolerably well acquainted with the plants in the neighbourhood of Rio and natural history in general'. Making several excursions with him and finding him very intelligent. Collecting several new and rare plants. The land rich and cultivated, with fine oranges, but Forbes not being impressed by the quality or quantity of the esculent vegetables. Watercress and lettuce the only salad vegetables, radish being 'a kind of degenerated turnip radish', but tropical fruits more successful including bananas and tomatoes or love apples (Solanum lycopersicum) [here the journal includes a list of 7 more vegetables and fruits]

(5 May 1822) Going out to Boto Fogo [Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro] three miles south of the city, one of the beautiful inlets in the harbour and residence of many of the 'principal' families, including English merchants with villas. The scenery fine, with a view over the harbour and ships passing the Sugar Loaf [Sugarloaf Mountain, Rio de Janeiro] and the three forts at the harbour entrance, and Curcuvado Mountains [Mount Corcovado, Brazil] on the other side

Delivering letters to Brigadier General Gomez [Joao Gomes da Silveira Mendonca, military officer and politician in Brazil]: 'he treated me with great kindness, and appointed the following Wednesday to meet me at the Botanic Garden of which he has the management'. Alexander Cunningham taking Forbes to see Mr Binns' ('a merchant here') extensive and well-preserved collection of insects, including the orders Lepidoptera, Hemiptera and Neuroptera. A hot day with clear sky and no wind. temperature 84° in the shade

(6 May 1822) Walking along the aqueduct conveying water to the city. Beautiful views. Collecting plants, but not finding many in flower or fruit. The land good, but generally not cleared of wood. Catching several species of insects, but both insects and birds 'very limited' due to French collectors: 'I met at least half a dozen of these gentlemen on my day's walk'. Returning in the evening with specimens and seeds. Hot day

(7 May 1822) Collecting with Gervasio Algarate on a different road. Finding many new plants, including specimens of the Cecropea plicata [Cecropia plicata], which 'makes a very conspicuous object in the woods' with its white leaves resembling blossoms

(8 May 1822) Riding out to see the Botanic Garden with William Owen, William Cutfield, Alexander Cunningham, Mr Heatherly [Alexander Heatherly, British vice-consul in Brazil] and 'several others', three and a half miles from Bote Fogo [Botafogo], and six and a half or seven miles from the city at the foot of the Curcuvado Mountains [Corcovado, Brazil] by a bay or inlet, with a good road for most of the year. Seeing many new plants, including the Combretum laxum (specimen 150) covered with golden flowers, and near the beach ('if such it may be called') half an acre covered with the magnificent Meniscum darifolium [?Meniscium, unidentified] (specimen 237) with fronds up to 12 feet long, resembling from a distance Cycas circinalis

Being received in the garden by Joao Gomes da Silveira Mendonca and being given permission to collect specimens. The garden consisting of four statute acres and one acre of tea plantation, laid out in regular squares and 'kept in pretty neat order'. Trees including the breadfruit tree and the jackfruit tree (Artocarpus incisa and integrifolia) [Artocarpus altilis, Artocarpus integer], clove tree (Caryophyllus aromaticus) [Syzygium aromaticum], chocolate nut (Theobroma cacao) and Cinnamon camphor [Cinnamomum camphora] [here the journal includes 2 more trees]. Not many indigenous plants: 'their object seems to be to introduce the plants of foreign climates, while the equally splendid plants of their own climate are quite neglected'. The tea plantations managed by 'a Chinese brought here for the purpose of taking care of them, but a great deal of it seems stunted and unhealthy'. Being given an excellent dinner by Silveira Mendonca and Cunningham

Arranging the specimens from the garden and those collected by Forbes himself and Owen in the adjoining ground with local plants, the latter more interesting and new to Forbes. The clove trees about to blossom. Not having seen the fruit of Artocarpus before, the tree full of beautiful fruit: 'I cannot say so much for its good qualifications at table; it is a poor substitute for good bread and as a vegetable I do not think at all equal to a good potato'. Not unpleasant, and many of the party liking the fruit, boiled in water. Leaving before sunset. Regretting not being able to procure specimens of plants seen in the morning

(9 May 1822) Turning specimens, drying seeds and putting them in fresh paper. Taking collection boxes and papers on board in the evening. Intending to make an excursion to the other side of the harbour the following day

(10 May 1822) Going out with Alick Osborne to the Braganza side of the harbour. The scenery not as fine as on the city side. The land sandy and well cultivated with cassava, rice, sugar cane and plenty of oranges. Shooting several birds among the orange trees. Returning another way: 'we unfortunately got into the grounds of a churlish Portuguese although all the time we had kept what we supposed to be a public road'. Understanding a little of the Portuguese and the gestures but pretending not to comprehend. Going towards the landing place at Braganza ['Braganza' crossed out and replaced with 'Praya Grande [Niteroi, Brazil]']. Buying some refreshment of coffee and eggs at 'a dirty vinda or provision shop': 'we paid very dear for it'. Embarking on a passenger boat and boarding the ship at 7pm. Spending the night arranging specimens and skinning birds

(11 May 1822) Going on shore. Changing specimen papers and drying seeds and bird skins. Going to Bote Fogo [Botafogo] in the evening. William Owen purchasing an American steam boat to accompany the ships as a tender and to navigate shallow rivers, with steam machinery taken out and the boat rigged as a schooner, its command being given to Richard Owen

(12 May 1822) Going out towards the Botanic Garden with Alexander Heatherly. Collecting plants seen on the earlier excursion. Heatherly shooting several birds, including two hummingbirds, but losing several of them in the thick bushes. Finding fine specimens of the beautiful Combretum laxum (specimen 150), Heliconia, 'Carolinea insignis?' [Pachira insignis] (specimen 73), Meniscium darifolium [?Meniscium, unidentified] (specimen 237), a genus of ferns not seen before, Vittaria lineata (specimen 239) growing out of the decaying trunks of trees and many other 'curious and beautiful' plants

(13 May 1822) Planting the plants collected in Alexander Cunningham's garden. Rain preventing going out until 4pm. Collecting plants, including Crinum in ditches in water a foot deep and Amaryllis pulverulenta [Hippeastrum striatum] on a sandy bank

(14 May 1822) Pouring with rain. Turning specimens. Packing up specimens ready for an appointment the following morning with Mr Langsdorff [Grigori Langsdorff, also known as Georg von Langsdorff, German-Russian naturalist and consul-general of Russia in Brazil] to go to his estate, Mandioca

(15 May 1822) 'I sent all my things away from Boto Fogo [Botafogo]'. Leaving at dawn to go to Mandioca. Returning to the ship for 'several things that I wished to take with me', Grigori Langsdorff being unable to leave that day, but being unable to board the ship, all the boats and men being busy with the vessel purchased by William Owen: 'the boats to the harbour 'go up with the sea breeze which begins to blow about sunset'. Returning on shore in the evening. Turning specimens, and discovering that small ants had damaged the pulpy seeds: 'they swarm in almost all the houses in Rio and its neighbourhood and devour everything that suits them that comes their way'

(16 May 1822) Being unable to travel due to a [public] holiday and lack of wind. Going out with Alick Osborne. Not seeing many new plants. Going along one of the smaller aqueducts. Being pleased at seeing a tree of Bombax (specimen 149) and on it the beautiful Diamond beetle (Curculio imperialis) [Entimus imperialis]: 'it is only on this tree that this insect is to be met with'. Following the side of the water course to the end of the road. Finding no path in the wood and deciding to return the same way before sunset. Finding some fine plants of Maranta zebrina [Calathea zebrina] and Begonia agrostigma [unidentified] in the woods, neither in flower

(17 May 1822) Embarking on Grigori Langsdorff's boat with Charles Lechmere and Alick Osborne for the harbour of Porto d'Estrella [Porto da Estrela, Brazil, incorporated into Mage in 1892] between 12 and 1pm. 'The men' having to row most of the way, there being little wind. Passing numerous islands [annotated: Governadore [Ilha do Governador, Brazil], Ilea d'Agua [Ilha d'Agua, Brazil], Ilea d'Seaca [unidentified]'], the first one the same size as St Helena [British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha], the second smaller and covered with palm trees, including cocoa nuts (Cocos nucifera) [coconuts], usually not successful in the colder climate of Rio de Janeiro

Arriving at the harbour at 5pm, having enjoyed a pleasant sail and beautiful views. The entrance into the river beyond the harbour 'not very good', with only three or four feet of water and boats liable to become stuck in the mud. The river 20 to 30 yards wide and six to nine yards deep with low banks and marshy land. Arriving at Porto da Estrela at 8pm. Grigori Langsdorff finding lodging for the night 'at the house of the principal people of the village, who treated us very kindly with coffee etc'. The bed cold with only a mat and a sheet or a thin cover: 'although I slept with all my clothes on I never suffered more in bed from cold in my life'. Getting up and walking around the room to get warm, having left his cloak and the rest of his belongings in a locked warehouse

(18 May 1822) Being ready to go for a walk to get warm at dawn. The village being composed of dwelling houses and warehouses by the river: 'it is a place of considerable business', with goods from the interior, including from the Minas [Minas Gerais, Brazil] and St Paul's [Sao Paulo, Brazil], brought on mules, being deposited in the warehouses before being sent by boats to St Sebastian. Passage by boat taking 12 hours, passage by land three days. Boats, covered with a thatch of reeds to accommodate passengers, with 10 to 15 tons of weight leaving every evening at sunset, arriving at St Sebastian the following morning. Receiving some 'very ordinary' coffee and eggs ('for which they made us pay dear enough')

Setting off with three horses for four people. Forbes and Alick Osborne choosing to walk at first to collect birds, intending to collect plants on the return journey. Later having to ride as the public road to the Minas [Minas Gerais] was covered in water, 'up to the horses' bellies', despite 'all the riches of the interior of the Brazils' being brought down that road. The country and the soil of rich loam mixed with decayed vegetable matter and occasionally sandy earth, very fine and suitable for cultivation, but not much being cultivated

Arriving at Mandioca in the afternoon, 10 miles from Porto d'Estrella [Porto da Estrela]. Having refreshments. Visiting the woods and lands of Grigori Langsdorff. The house being finely situated at the foot of the Organ Mountains [Serra dos Orgaos, Brazil], overlooking a richly wooded and beautiful country. The soil a well-watered, rich loam. Plantations including coffee, indigo, lemons, rice and several species of Phaseolus [here the journal includes a list of 5 more plants]: 'the negroes are fed a great deal on these and carne seca or jerked beef, that is, beef with most of the bones taken out, salted, and dried in the sun'. Langsdorff having 'formed a little colony here of Europeans he has brought out'. Finding several new plants. Alick Osborne and Charles Lechmere shooting birds, some with beautiful plumage, including 'Loxia mexicana?' [unidentified], Crotophaga ani and a species of Psittacus. Spending the evening skinning the birds

(19 May 1822) Going into the wood in the morning. Finding a species of Begonia and several other curious plants. Returning along a public road over the mountains, making excursions into the wood. Following a brook and finding several curious plants and seeds, including the 'singular' Marcgravia umbellata, but not in full flower. Returning to arrange the specimens. Going out with Grigori Langsdorff. Finding plants including two species of Begonia, one without a stem and with oblong, lanceolate leaves (specimens 50-51), a curious Oxalis (specimen 78), several curious species of ferns, a Polypodium forming a trunk 15 or 20 feet high, resembling palm trees. The scenery 'romantic and pretty' with a variety of plants. Returning with a load of plants and seeds. Spending the evening arranging them

(20 May 1822) Intending to go to the top of the hill. Planting the plants collected the previous day. Grigori Langsdorff, Charles Lechmere and Alick Osborne setting off, with Forbes following an hour behind. Knowing there were no new plants for a couple of miles, having been on the same road the day before. Reaching Langsdorff, Lechmere and Osborne after about three miles. Seeing a variety of plants. The scenery more varied and beautiful with views over the harbour of Rio de Janeiro with its islands and inlets, extending to the ocean 30 miles away

Stopping at 'one of the vindas or public houses' about four miles from Langsdorff's house. Langsdorff ordering refreshments and Forbes collecting several beautiful and curious plants, including 'Solanum bradypus?' [unidentified] (specimen 57) and ferns. Eating stewed fowl with 'a considerable portion' of garlic, served with beans and port wine, 'which is to be got at all these vindas tolerably good'. The rest of the party not wishing to walk a further two miles after lunch to see the Araucaria growing on top of the hill, and Langsdorff procuring a horse for Forbes

Seeing a 'stately' tree resembling a large Candelabrum [Candelabra] with branches growing out horizontally, about 70 feet high and 12 feet in circumference, with smaller ones in the vicinity: 'I should have been quite satisfied if I had seen nothing but this tree, but I found several other curious plants'. The rest of the party shooting while waiting for Forbes. Collecting plants on the return journey. Spending the evening arranging them and skinning the shot birds. A good road up the hill, about 16 feet wide and paved like a Roman causeway, with the largest stones in the centre. Langsdorff saying that the height of the mountain measured by a barometer was 5,000 feet and the soil excellent up to the top

(21 May 1822) Preparing to return to Rio de Janeiro after breakfast, but being delayed by rain and worrying about missing the boat. Being given horses by Grigori Langsdorff to take them through the flooded roads. Collecting specimens in the afternoon, including Heliconia humilis [Heliconia psittacorum] (specimen 32). Arriving at Porto d'Estrella [Porto da Estrela] at 5pm. Finding refreshments and embarking on board a covered boat bound for St Sebastian. Arriving in the city at daybreak the following morning

(22 May 1822) Charles Lechmere and Alick Osborne taking a small boat to board the ship, while Forbes taking specimens, plants and seeds on shore to John Dickson. Boarding the ship to ascertain the sailing time from William Owen. Returning on shore to arrange the specimens and seeds. Going out to Shackery [chacara], Dickson's country house, to dine and sleep

(23 May 1822) Botanising around John Dickson's house. Returning to town. Laying down specimens. Changing specimen papers. Boarding the ship to sleep

(24 May 1822) Receiving soil and planting living plants into a box. Going on shore with William Owen to collect plants on the rocks in the Boto Fogo Bay [Botafogo]. Finding several curious and beautiful plants, including two species of Epidendrum (specimens 123 and 124) and two species of Guzmania (specimens 119 and 126)

(25 May 1822) Bringing moss on shore [crossed out: 'I had brought from England'] to pack specimens and seeds collected at Teneriffe [Tenerife] and Cape d'Verd [Cabo Verde]. Changing papers of specimens collected at Rio [Rio de Janeiro]

(26 May 1822) Packing plants in moss to send to England. Rain all afternoon. Boarding the ship in the evening with the papers and boxes. Intending to go with Charles Lechmere and Alexander Heatherly to the other side of the harbour [annotated: 'chacara, country house or farm']

(27 May 1822) Leaving the ship at dawn with Charles Lechmere to fetch Alexander Heatherly from Boto Fogo [Botafogo]. The day not looking promising, with occasional rain. Arriving at the other side of the harbour at Three Fathom Bay [Guanabara Bay, Brazil]. The ground low and sandy. Bringing provisions with them from Alexander Cunningham's house, intending to visit lakes five or six miles away, but being prevented by bad weather. The country fine and open, the land good with some marshy places, but finding very few snipes or other birds

Staying the night at 'a country vinda'. Setting off with 'two negroes to fetch up our provisions and loaded them with plants on our way'. Stopping to arrange specimens and to leave them at the landing place. Setting off at sunset. The road uphill bad and muddy. Lechmere and Heatherly anxiously waiting at the lodgings. Their room on the ground floor about nine feet long and five wide, with walls of stick and clay, the roof tiles and floor of uneven clay. The room dry, 'but by no means warm, however we spent a tolerable night'. Being annoyed by the croaking of large frogs outside. Raining most of the night

(28 May 1822) Intending to go to the lakes in the morning but rain continuing. Returning to the landing place to wait for the boat at 2pm. Collecting more plants. Charles Lechmere and Alexander Heatherly shooting birds. Rowing to Boto Fogo [Botafogo] taking three and a half hours with contrary winds. Shooting boobies (Pelecanus sula) [Sula sula] and two pintado birds (Procellaria capensis) [Cape petrel, Daption capense] while crossing. Arriving at sunset

(29 May 1822) Rain. Skinning birds and planting plants from Alexander Cunningham's garden. Walking to town in the afternoon

(30 May 1822) Going on board the Beaver, a 10-gun brig, to ask Captain Maclean [Archibald Maclean, captain of HMS Beaver] to take two boxes of specimens and plants to England. Not receiving an answer. Returning on shore to pack plants

(31 May 1822) Going on board the Beaver again, but 'they could not take my plants'. Arranging insects in the evening

(1 Jun 1822) Packing and collecting plants

(2 Jun 1822) Packing a box of specimens and seeds. Pitching up the joints of the box to prevent moisture from getting in. Heavy rain

(3 Jun 1822) Going to the museum. The building 'one of the better situated in rather a retired part of the town, kept very clean and neat', but the collection of animals not extensive. Numerous birds, with some fine specimens but not a great variety. The specimens not arranged systematically in the glass cases. Some fine insects, in particular the order Coleoptera and Lepidoptera, arranged without a system in the glass cases 'to please the eye'. Some fine skins of snakes, a fine variety of coral specimens, and an extensive and well-arranged collection of minerals: 'they are the same collection that Werner [Abraham Gottlob Werner, geologist] once possessed, purchased by the king of Portugal [the collection was sold to the Portuguese government, and shipped to Rio de Janeiro in 1807]'. Few shells. Being treated with 'a great deal of civility by the gentlemen who have the superintendence of the museum'

(4 Jun 1822) Heavy rain preventing an excursion to the Curcuvado Mountains [Mount Corcovado, Brazil] with Grigori Langsdorff. Changing specimen papers. Taking the boxes of plants and specimens on board the Lusitania in the afternoon, for Captain Langdon [William Langdon, captain of the Lusitania] to take to London. Sleeping on board HMS Leven

(5 Jun 1822) Raining. Going with Grigori Langsdorff to see Father Leandro do Sacramento

(6 Jun 1822) Setting off after breakfast for the Curcuvado mountains [Mount Corcovado], intending to meet with Grigori Langsdorff, having arranged to meet Charles Lechmere on the way. Due to the Feast of Corpus Christi, 'a great gala day with the Portuguese', Lechmere coming to town in uniform to see the procession instead of going to the mountains. Waiting an hour for Langsdorff to accompany him.

The road not good due to the rain. Following a stream used for washing linen: 'it is no uncommon sight to see 300 black women standing in the water pelting away the clothes on large stones'. Stopping at a 'vinda' to buy bread, cheese and wine. Collecting specimens of Lecythis coriacea [Eschweilera coriacea] (specimen 120) with yellow flowers from a tree 30 feet high, the capsules not ripe. Passing the house of Count Hogandorff [Dirk van Hogendorp, Dutch officer and secretary of war] with a commanding view. The land a good red loam. Finding a beautiful little Epidendrum (specimen 241) with scarlet blossom, growing on low, rough granite rock, the only specimen of this 'humble beauty'. Finding a 'singular new genus' (specimen 21) with elegant orange compound flowers. Seeing the ruins higher up of the houses of Langsdorff and Henry Chamberlain, with fine views over the town and harbour.

Seeing a group of fine Araucaria with a 'beautiful and imposing effect from their singular stately appearance'. Finding seeds under the trees. Langsdorff taking some of the seeds already germinated and putting them in damp moss to plant later. Taking some of the seeds to take to the Cape of Good Hope [South Africa], intending to send home those not sprouted. Eating bread, cheese, wine and oranges. Langsdorff leaving his horse behind. Following a stream. Finding a beautiful Phrynium capitatum [Phrynium pubinerve] (specimen 112) with scarlet bracteas [bract], several fine species of ferns including two species of Marattia (specimens 160, 161), a genus Forbes had not seen before, some beautiful specimens of Trichomanes (specimen 210) running up the tree trunks and 'splendid' Polypodium trees (specimen 162), 25 feet high, with trunks four and a half inches in diameter. The sun setting, being 'obliged reluctantly to return, for we had got into one of nature's botanic gardens', with romantic scenery and a great variety of plants. Descending the hill in the dark. Stopping at the bottom of the hill at 7pm. Arranging specimens in papers while waiting for coffee

(7 Jun 1822) Boarding the ship to enquire about sailing. William Owen giving Forbes some specimens. Arranging specimens in papers

(8 Jun 1822) Being informed of sailing the following morning. Packing up and purchasing supplies. Taking leave 'of all our kind friends'. Boarding the ship in the evening. Spending the night writing letters and arranging the cabin

(9 Jun 1822) Sailing from Rio de Janeiro at 8.30am. The vessels having to be towed due to no wind. Passing the Forts [Forte Sao Luiz e Forte do Pico, Brazil] and the Sugar Loaf Hill [Sugarloaf Mountain] at 11am. Bidding farewell to the beautiful scenery, 'pretty sure that we should not see a finer landscape, nor meet with kinder friends'. Passing the Isle of Raza [?Ilha Rasa, Brazil] at 5pm and losing the sight of the continent of America in the night

(12 Jun 1822) Latitude 27°31'00''S, longitude 41°11'00''N. Seeing the first pintado birds (Procellaria capensis) [Cape petrel, Daption capense]. Seeing a spermaceti whale [sperm whale]

(16 Jun 1822) Latitude 30°31'00''S, longitude 30°54'00''W. Seeing numerous Procellaria capensis [Daption capense] and the first albatross (Diomedea exulans). The ships almost becalmed. The climate 'so cold that we were all glad to put on woollen clothes again'. Temperature 69°

(17 Jun 1822) Latitude 30°30'00''S, longitude 29°57'00''W. The ships almost becalmed. Two large whales swimming around the ship spouting water into the air. Pintados (Procellaria capensis) [Cape petrel, Daption capense] and Procellaria equinoctialis [Procellaria aequinoctialis] (specimen 3) flying around the ship. William Owen lowering a boat for Forbes, Alick Osborne and Charles Lechmere to shoot birds: 'we should have got more, but a breeze sprang up and it was necessary to get on board'

(22 Jun 1822) Latitude 33°24'00''S, longitude 29°57'00''W. Gales through the night and the following morning, 'the only unpleasant weather of this kind we had had since we left England'. The tender in tow since leaving Brazil 'obliged to be cast off in the night'

(23 Jun 1822) Wind 'somewhat abated', stopping to assist the tender. Putting lines and hooks overboard bated with pork fat to catch the pintados [Cape petrel]. Catching two. Seeing several albatrosses and other birds, assuming them to be species of Procellaria, 'but we could not get any of them to determine'. 31°46'00''S latitude, 11°41'30''W longitude

(30 Jun 1822) Latitude 33°51'00''S, longitude 6°30'00''E. Seeing larger numbers of birds than previously, including the white and sooty albatrosses (Diomedea exulans and Diomedea fuligenosa [Phoebetria fusca]) (specimens 6, 8). Counting 12 of the immense white albatrosses and several sooty albatrosses flying near the ship. Seeing five or six species of petrels (Procellaria), in particular the enormous Procellaria capensis [Daption capense]. Flying very close to the ship: 'this does not appear to be from any confidence they have in man, but from their utter unacquaintance with the danger they put themselves in, by trusting to their worst enemy'. Seeing the birds shot at, yet not moving, but sitting quietly in the water, 'looking about them with astonishment'. Seeing the snowy petrel (Procellaria nivea) [Pagodroma nivea] and other species. The ship sailing too fast to shoot any, although William Owen offering to lower a boat to pick up any that were shot.

The previous evening whilst at dinner, having the glass of his cabin window broken by the sea and the cabin filled with water. During the night a goat brought from the Isle of Sal [Cabo Verde] dying and the carcass thrown overboard, with albatrosses and petrels hovering over and pecking it. Seeing two or three kinds of Diomedea, but being unsure whether they were distinct species, different sexes, young birds or varieties. Seeing mostly white albatrosses with dark brown wings, some considerably smaller and all brown apart from the belly, and others differently marked. Refuse thrown overboard seized by the pintados [Cape petrel], flocking around it 'like domestic fowls round a barn door'. The albatrosses flying amongst the smaller birds, dispatching them. Observing the albatrosses sitting on the water with their wings extended and the albatrosses and petrels striking the water with their feet, rising to flight. The birds more numerous stormy or squally weather and flying closer to the ship. Seeing birds occasionally in moonlight: 'I conceive their being seen at night is only occasioned by vessels that disturb them as they float or roost on the water'

(2 Jul 1822) The ships almost becalmed. Numerous birds, including petrels and albatrosses. William Owen 'very obligingly' ordering a boat to be lowered for shooting them. Charles Lechmere and Alick Osborne shooting two large albatrosses (Diomedea exulans), five sooty albatrosses (Diomedea fuliginosa) [Phoebetria fusca] and one petrel (Procellaria equinoctialis) [Procellaria aequinoctialis] (specimen 3). Those remaining on board disappointed, being ready to shoot the birds from the ship, but the birds being attracted by the boat did not approach the ship. The large albatrosses having a wingspan of nine feet, and measuring three feet 5 1/2 inches in length, and the sooty albatrosses having a wingspan of six feet six inches, and measuring two feet 6 1/2 inches in length. Correcting Linne's [Carl Linnaeus, Swedish botanist and zoologist] descriptions of the genus Diomedea: having three toes instead of four and Diomedea fuliginosa [Phoebetria fusca] having a previously unmentioned white cartilagenous line along the lower mandible. That species only observed at this latitude, a few degrees west of Greenwich and about six or seven degrees east, where they were more numerous than the white ones

Cooking and eating the flesh from the thigh of the large albatross: 'Captain Owen [William Owen] had some fresh English mutton at the table the same day, but some preferred albatross, together they eat very well', being cooked like a mutton chop, having been steeped in salt and water, the tendons taken out and the meat 'made fully hot' with pepper, with no fishy taste: 'those who had conceived a dislike for the flesh from the rancid fishy smell of the bird did not dislike it when dressed in this manner', despite the 'quart of thick rancid oil' which emerged from the stomach of the birds brought on board. Latitude 34°00'15''S, longitude 12°27'00''E

(3 Jul 1822) Latitude 33°36'00''S, longitude 13°11'50''E. Seeing numerous birds. One shot from the stern. Being given a boat by William Owen ('very obligingly') to pick it up with Charles Lechmere and Alick Osborne. Shooting five more birds, a sooty albatross and procellarias. Seeing one Procellaria pelagica [Hydrobates pelagicus], the only one seen south of Rio de Janeiro

(5 Jul 1822) Latitude 33°36'43''S, longitude 14°31'00''E. The ships becalmed. Seeing fewer kinds of birds than previously. Alick Osborne shooting at a large albatross in the water but only injuring it. Chasing the injured swimming bird by boat: 'we did not wish to fire a second shot at him for fear of injuring the skin too much'. Catching the bird: 'this was much the finest bird procured', with a wingspan of 11 feet, weighing 18lbs. At 10.30pm sending a boat to test the current. Temperature of the water at 90 fathoms and the surface 58°. Temperature of air 62°

(7 Jul 1822) Coming in sight of land in the morning. Entering False Bay [South Africa] at 4pm. Anchoring in the bay overnight: 'the captain conceived it more prudent to do so than run into Simon's Bay [South Africa] in the dark'

(8 Jul 1822) Anchoring at Simon's Bay: 'there is nothing particularly beautiful or interesting in the scenery hereabouts', the hills being barren with little vegetation or trees. Going on shore. The whitewashed houses and stores of Simon's Town [South Africa] neat and clean, with flat roofs: 'the Dutch, in any part of the colony I have seen, keep their dwellings very clean, very different to the slovenly Portuguese'. The town little more than a single row of houses at the foot of the hills. Seeing HMS Barracouta, which had arrived three days earlier, and HMS Andromache, HMS Hyperion, HMS Heron and some merchant ships in the bay

(9 Jul 1822) Arranging belongings on board to take on shore. A gale blowing in the night. Ships in the bay having to lower top masts and lower yards. Several men going on shore in Table Bay [South Africa]. North-westerly wind. Noting that sailing into Table Bay was dangerous in the winter season from May to September due to north-westerly winds blowing directly into the bay: 'it would certainly be to the interest of insurance companies and merchants if they were obliged to go into Simon's Bay as all Men of War are'. Eight vessels having been 'lost or otherwise injured' that year, and ships frequently unable to get into either of the bays due to storms: 'vessels are often beating off the Cape [Cape of Good Hope] for months', HMS Cygnet having taken 13 days to sail from Table Bay to Simon's Bay, suffering considerable damage

(10 Jul 1822) Going on a short excursion on the hill above Simon's Town with William Owen, William Cutfield and Charles Lechmere. Collecting about 30 species of plants

(11 Jul 1822) Stormy weather with snow, sleet and rain. Unable to go to Cape Town [South Africa]. Writing letters to England

(12 Jul 1822) Leaving Simon's Town in a wagon drawn by eight horses, driven by a man seated at the front holding a 26 feet whip with a bamboo handle. For the first eight or ten miles the road poor and the landscape uninteresting. The road running along the beach, the ugly coast with heavy surf to the right, and barren hills to the left with sand blowing about in dry weather. Passing alongside a lake or salt marsh with numerous aquatic birds, including wild ducks, coots and flamingos, 'most of them very difficult to be got at'. Passing over a plain for five or six miles, the road improving. Seeing many familiar plants. The wagon stopping at the Half Way House [?Wynberg Inn], 'for the horses to bait and the passengers to refresh'. Ascending the hill and passing the neat village of Wynberg or Winehill ['hill crossed out and replaced with 'berg'] [Wynberg, South Africa] [annotated: 'so famous for its peculiar fine wine, is also to be seen from here']. Constantia [Cape Town] seen at the foot of the Table Mountain [South Africa] [annotated in pencil on the blank page opposite: 'the foot of a hill adjoining Table Mountain at the south end'], covered in snow ('a rare occurrence')

The country more fertile and beautiful. Newlands to the left of the road, the seat of the governor, Lord Charles Somerset [Charles Henry Somerset, governor of the Cape Colony]. The road passing through rows of oaks and firs. Seeing on the hills a silver tree, 'gracefully bending to the breeze', a species of Protea Forbes had not seen anywhere south of the Table Mountain, nor in Hottentot Holland [Hottentots Holland Mountains, South Africa], east of False Bay. The road passing along the foot of the Develsbergh or Devil Mount [Devil's Peak, South Africa], with a view of the Lion's Rump [Lion's Head, South Africa] and Table Bay. The Lion's Rump differing from the other hills nearby in being green, with an even surface on the top, the other hills being 'very common and rocky'. Cape Town appearing neat with whitewashed and regular houses. Fine views over the bay, the town and the mountains

Arriving at Cape Town at 4pm, too late to deliver letters to Charles Henry Somerset who had returned to Newlands. Another correspondent, Mr Rivers [Henry Rivers, colonial officer in South Africa], residing about 600 miles away in the Albany district [South Africa]

(13 Jul 1822) Delivering letters to Mr Villet [Charles Mathurin Villet, naturalist and zoological merchant in South Africa] and Dr Philip [John Philip, missionary in South Africa]. Villet's collection on natural history not very extensive, 'he having parted with a great collection a short time before, amongst which was a living elephant and a skin of a hippopotamus [the collection having been sold to the Egyptian Hall in Piccadilly, London]'. Going to Villet's garden at Green Point [Cape Town] at the foot of the Lion's Rump [Lion's Head]. The ground a sandy loam with stones. The garden including many plants, 'especially Cape bulbs', and animal enclosures, with a couple of 'fine' four-year old lions, a 'fine' female zebra and several monkeys

(14 Jul 1822) Breakfasting with Mr Reitz [Jan Frederik Reitz, officer in the Dutch navy and farmer in South Africa], father of the first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta [Jacobus Johannes Reitz or John James Reitz, who was in fact third lieutenant on HMS Barracouta], who had broken his thigh at the Isle of Sal shooting eagles: 'a large stone on which he stood gave way and rolled upon him'. Walking to the Reitz cottage at the foot of the Table Mountain. A fine view over the bay and the town. Seeing many beautiful plants but not being able to collect them, having no paper or other collecting equipment. Seeing a covered spring below the cottage, supplying 'very excellent water' conveyed in iron pipes to the town. Passing through a public garden belonging to the government. Seeing few plants apart from some fruit trees. Seeing in the menagerie a couple of lions, a fine Bengal tiger, two secretary birds and some other animals

(15 Jul 1822) Breakfasting with John Philip. Seeing his minerals, 'collected by himself on difficult journeys in South of Africa', including curious agates, and a well-preserved plant collection: 'this gentleman has very good knowledge of natural history in general'

Leaving Cape Town in the afternoon. Calling at Newlands to deliver a letter to Charles Henry Somerset and being treated with great politeness. The neighbourhood of Newlands resembling England, with oaks and firs, but also silver trees and a variety of plants not found in England. A fine day. Arriving at Simon's Bay at 7pm

(16 Jul 1822) Boarding the ship. Arranging plants collected by William Owen in Cape Town

(17 Jul 1822) Walking up the glen towards the waterfall west of Simon's Bay. Collecting a number of curious plants, in particular ferns (specimens 32-40)

(18 Jul 1822) Setting off with Alick Osborne intending to go to the lakes at Nardhook [Noordhoek, South Africa] to shoot flamingos. Leaving too late, 'however we killed several other curious and beautiful birds', including four species of Certhia (specimens 10-15), feeding on the nectar of different species of Proteaceae and other flowers ('the note of these birds is very sweet and pretty'). The land mostly barren but with a great variety of plants, and the soil sandy. Killing a non-venomous Coluber snake six feet and six inches long

(19 Jul 1822) Going out with William Mudge. Shooting several more Certhia birds on the hill west of Simon's Town. Attempting to find aquatic birds to shoot on marshy ground. Finding a number of beautiful plants, including Erica, Stavia [Staavia], Protea and 'an endless variety of other plants' not in flower

(20 Jul 1822) A gale blowing with squalls from the north-east. Remaining at the observatory skinning birds. Several ships blown on shore in Table Bay. William Owen returning from Cape Town. Boarding the ship at sunset

(21 Jul 1822) Pouring rain. Skinning birds at the observatory. Several houses collapsing due to the rain, the houses being flat-roofed because of strong winds 'that would blow them down if they were roofed in the English manner'. The lime used for building houses not very good, being made from sea shells, the bricks with too much sandy gravel in them and 'not sufficiently baked in general, that they soon become, as it were, cotton'

(22 Jul 1822) Stormy weather. Boarding the ship to arrange specimens collected by William Owen. Going on shore to finish skinning birds

(23 Jul 1822) Arranging specimens collected in Rio de Janeiro. Procuring two flamingo skins (Phoenicopterus ruber)

(24 Jul 1822) Rain all day. Several houses partly collapsing. Skinning the two flamingos: 'rather troubling to skin about the neck and head. The slaves that catch the birds generally pull out the fine scarlet feathers from under the wings to stick in their caps, which certainly adds very much to their former beauty'

(25 Jul 1822) Skinning more birds. Arranging specimens from Rio de Janeiro. Going to the commissioner's [Joseph Nourse, commander-in-chief of the Cape of Good Hope Station] garden with William Owen. The garden 'almost in a state of nature' due to neglect and bad weather. Collecting specimens. Stormy weather

(26 Jul 1822) Collecting specimens around Simon's Town. Shooting birds in the commissioner's garden

(27 Jul 1822) Arranging birds shot during the sea journey and in the Cape [Cape of Good Hope] for sending home by the ship Spike. Having to defer sending them after finding the large albatross skin was not sufficiently dry

(28 Jul 1822) Boarding the ship. Examining and arranging plant specimens with William Owen, collected by him. Going on shore in the evening. Observing a beautiful occultation of Antares by the moon with Alexander Vidal and William Mudge: 'this eclipse was instantaneous to each observer both in its immersion and reappearance'

(29 Jul 1822) Out shooting. Killing a Cape woodpecker ('Picus caser?') [?Geocolaptes olivaceus], a shy bird with a harsh and unpleasant sound, living in rocky places. Killing several other birds not shot before. Collecting several plants

(30 Jul 1822) Going to the lakes at Nardhook [Noordhoek] to shoot flamingos and aquatic birds. Not seeing any flamingos. The only birds being wild ducks, keeping their distance. Shooting 'scarcely anything else'. Walking about 30 miles without food. Stopping at houses along the way, but 'they could not give us as much as a crust of bread. Such is the distressed state of this colony at this time, due to the crops having failed the two last seasons or more'. The soil sandy and little cultivated. A great variety of plants but most already well known in England

(31 Jul 1822) Skinning birds shot the previous day. Very stormy weather

(1 Aug 1822) Skinning more birds. William Mudge boarding HMS Barracouta with his instruments, preparing to sail to Algoa Bay [South Africa] the following day. Preparing to join a surveying party under Alexander Vidal at 'the extreme point' [Cape Point, South Africa]. Two boats leaving but having to return, not being able to land due to heavy surf and the rocky coast

(2 Aug 1822) Alexander Vidal coming on shore to take a Malay fisherman familiar with the coast as a pilot. Forbes missing the boats, sailing from the ship whilst Forbes preparing for the journey at the observatory. Leaving Simon's Town at 10.30am with one of the men from the ship and a horse to carry baggage to follow the surveying party.

Going up the Red Path [Red Hill Road, South Africa] and passing Oliphant's Bosh or Elephant's Bush [Olifantsbos, South Africa], two or three houses on the western coast of the peninsula, 'a considerable distance on our right'. Heading south towards the extreme point. Crossing plains covered with water, the road from Simon's Town offering little variation. Seeing a great variety of plants, including ones not seen before. Collecting specimens, walking ahead of the man and the horse.

Arriving at Mr Osmond's [John Osmond, carpenter, landlord and slave holder in South Africa] farm [Buffelsfontein Farm, South Africa] near their destination at 4pm. Finding the boats on the beach in Buffels Bay [Buffelsbaai, South Africa], 'at a place made and used by the fishermen'. Vidal and the rest of the party having gone with their tents to the extreme point four miles further on, 'being the station fixed on by him for taking his angles of observation'. Staying at the farm for the night. Being treated with great civility and hospitality by Mr Devos [?Wouter de Vos, tenant of John Osmond]. Skinning two birds shot earlier. Placing collected specimens in paper. Seeing the party in the distance making a fire and pitching their tents on the peak at sunset

(3 Aug 1822) Setting out in the morning towards the tents. Arriving one and a half hours later. The view from the top of the hill 'very extensive and interesting, when we consider it the most southern point of Africa'. Alexander Vidal 'fixed the situation' [latitude and longitude left blank]. Seeing many seabirds, including Plotus [Anhinga], pelicans and gulls: 'harsh unpleasant cries mingled with the roaring surf adds gloom to the melancholy scene'. Baboons on a nearby hill screaming continuously and watching from the highest rocks, hiding among them from anyone approaching. Observing that the baboons were sometimes caught on the plains, but if pursued by a dog they will attack the dog 'in a shocking manner', leading to few dogs attempting to chase them. Seeing bucks, possibly steanbock antelope [steenbok]. Not seeing wolves ('Canis lupus?'), jackals (Canis aureus) or wild cats (Viverra civetta) [Viverra civettina]. Collecting several plants, 'none I believe peculiar to this neighbourhood'

(4 Aug 1822) Collecting 'all the plants I could find' near the point and arranging them. Collecting marine plants and shells on the beach. Seeing immense Fucus [algae], with stalks up to 20 feet [annotated on the blank opposite page: 'trumpets are made of the stalks of this plant'], and an abundance of 'excellent' sponges washed up on the beach. Going to the house of Mr de Vos [?Wouter de Vos]. Placing specimens in paper. Digging up various bulbs. Shooting two or three birds 'that I had not before'. The land from the farm to the point comprising healthy soil or sand with a great variety of plants. De Vos collecting shells on the beach, making them into lime, 'the only sort of lime they have in this part of the colony, there is no limestone'. Being amused by a flock of gannets (Pelicanus bassanus) [Morus bassanus] of some thousand flying over a shoal of fish, darting down to the water with wings closed, 'like an arrow shot from a bow'.

Alexander Vidal and the rest of the party measuring angles during the day and making astronomical observations at night. Heavy dew at night 'a great inconvenience' to them: 'the glass of the artificial horizon [attitude indicator] was continually covered', preventing accurate observations

(5 Aug 1822) Digging up Haemanthus bulbs. Collecting specimens. Alexander Vidal dismantling the tents after getting the meridian altitude, coming with the baggage to the boats in Buffels Bay [Buffelsbaai]. The boats sent off at sunset. Vidal remaining behind to fix other stations the following day

(6 Aug 1822) Leaving the house of Mr de Vos [?Wouter de Vos] with Alexander Vidal in the morning. Climbing to the top of Paula's Bergh Hill [Paulsberg, South Africa], north-east of John Osmond's farm. Finding an orchideous plant (specimen 95, 'elegant and curious'). Vidal measuring angles and wishing to proceed to another hill but not finding it good for observations. Forbes parting ways with Vidal to go towards a house 'occupied by an Englishman of the name of Cowdry' [?Robert Cowdrey, English settler in South Africa] at the foot of Swartcoup Mountain [Swartkop Mountain, South Africa]. Collecting plants during the rough cross-country walk. Arriving at the house at 4pm.

A little later seeing Vidal and 'one of the young gentlemen that went away in the boats last night' approaching. Worrying about what had happened to the boat and the crew, but finding that the boats had not been able to anchor at Simon's Bay and had to anchor at a smaller bay called Smith's Winkle Bay [Smitswinkel Bay, South Africa] instead, the crew pitching their tent on the beach to wait for the wind to change or abate. Seeing from the top of the hill the breakers along the west coast of the peninsula 'rolling most hideously', not laid down in any charts and dangerous for ships going round the Cape: 'Mr Vidal set them with the theodolite [a surveying instrument with a rotating telescope for measuring angles]'. Spending the night at Cowdrey's

(7 Aug 1822) Mr Cowdry [?Robert Cowdrey], 'although an Englishman, had fallen into the Dutch custom of drinking coffee without milk for two or three hours in the morning' followed by a late breakfast: he 'was going to serve us in the same way, but we thought it more prudent to take something as a breakfast before we ascended the hill'.

Leaving the house at 8am and arriving at the summit at 9.30am. The hill one of the highest in the area, estimating the height at 2,000 feet without a barometer, descending almost perpendicular to the sea. The east side covered with plants to the top. The north-west side with a gentle descent, allowing bullock wagons to reach almost to the summit to take down charcoal. The charcoal made by burning the heath in the dry season, leaving the roots of shrubs in the ground, digging them up after a year or more and cleaning and drying them 'in the same manner as charcoal is manufactured in England'. The roots of [blank] best for charcoal, fetching a higher price, used for burning in stoves for heating rooms and for irons used to iron linen. A wagon load of 16 oxen selling for 90 or 100 rixdollars in Cape Town: 'if a man works well, he will prepare a load of it in a month'

Alexander Vidal making observations and Forbes collecting plants before descending the hill north-west towards another station near the coast. The rocks on the hill 'more detached than we had seen on any of the other hills'. Finding orchella (lichen), 'longer and more luxurious' than the lichen in the Canary Islands [Spain] and Cabo Verde. The rocks on the hills sloping towards the north-west, with 'a considerable portion of iron' in the soil. The mountains on the west side of False Bay sloping to a plain before reaching the sea. Collecting specimens. Returning to Simon's Town after sunset

(8 Aug 1822) Boarding HMS Leven in the morning. Arranging specimens collected by William Owen. Returning to the observatory in the afternoon. Skinning birds

(9 Aug 1822) Making an excursion over the hill with Mr Browne [Charles William Browne, lieutenant on HMS Leven]. Finding only one plant not seen before (specimen 58). Returning at 10am to arrange and number specimens

(10 Aug 1822) Visiting commodore Norse's [Joseph Nourse] and John Osmond's gardens. Skinning birds shot the previous day. Changing specimen papers

(11 Aug 1822) Collecting about 20 new species of plants around Simon's Town, the fine sunny weather having brought out many plants (specimens 109-114). Walking with a party to a waterfall above the town. Collecting specimens, including a delicate Hymenophyllum growing on a damp rock. Boarding HMS Leven in the afternoon. Arranging to go with Alexander Vidal to Gordon's Bay [South Africa] the following morning







(12 Aug 1822) Leaving Simon's Bay in the morning with Alexander Vidal, Mr Gibbons [Henry Gibbons, lieutenant on HMS Leven] and Mr Rogier [Edward Rogier, midshipman on HMS Leven] in a small sloop and two boats. A 'delightfully fine' morning and a pleasant passage across the bay. Catching many silverfish [sea bream]: 'tolerable good eating, but not equal to several other kinds that are caught in this bay'. Vidal 'sounding' [measuring the depth of water] and taking angles to determine his position at the time of different soundings. Encountering two whaling boats and receiving information about anchoring the sloop and landing the boats. 'This establishment belongs to Mr Gosling [?James Gosling], the proprietor of most of the land in the immediate neighbourhood'.

Anchoring at 2.30pm. Dining on board. Going on shore to pitch the tents: 'while this was doing, I took a stroll round the place'. The land 'much stronger and better than that on the opposite side'. Seeing a number of beautiful new plants: 'must not omit one which for beauty, elegance and singularity nothing could excel it, was the Drosera', with a six-inch high stem covered with leaves, 'elegantly beset' hair-like glands supporting a single pink flower with five stamens, and five crowned pistils outside the anther. Seeing many other beautiful bulbous plants. Seeing many birds not seen on the opposite coast. Sleeping in the tents

(13 Aug 1822) Alexander Vidal going out with the two boats to Cape Hangclip [Cape Hangklip, South Africa] to survey and make sketches of the coast, but being unsuccessful due to a strong south-westerly wind. Vidal discovering a small river, the Steans Brass [Steenbras River, South Africa], not included in charts, going up 500-600 yards. The coast appearing 'impracticable' for landing boats, an opinion confirmed by the fishermen at Gordon's Bay. Henry Gibbons taking observations.

Forbes visiting several farm houses and to the village of Somerset [Somerset West, South Africa] to procure fresh provisions. Finding vegetables difficult to obtain, the cold weather having destroyed the crops. Having walked about five miles, noting that the land was better quality than on the other side, and 'very capable of being made productive, if well drained'. Extensive farms. Wine cultivation, barning and feeding cattle being the chief occupations of the Dutch farmers. Seeing many beautiful new beautiful plants (specimens 127-129, 132) but being unable to stop to collect them, 'for the gentlemen at the tent were waiting [for] breakfast until my return'.

Collecting plants after breakfast. Shooting birds. Going to the beach and the rocks in the evening to shoot sea fowl but not succeeding: 'whether these birds go on the water to sleep or to some more inaccessible rocks we were not able to determine'. Rain in the night. Having to leave the tents and stay at the house of Mr Gosling's harpooner [whaler], 'who kindly gave us every accommodation at his command'

(14 Aug 1822) The weather more unfavourable. In order to fire rockets at Simon's Bay in the evening, to measure the difference of longitude, Alexander Vidal measuring angles and sketching the coast instead of going out with the boats. Vidal observing that the river was impossible to enter at certain times and that boats were unable to travel far up the river due to the heavy surf. The land rocky and barren. Henry Gibbons making observations on the north-east coast, seeing little variety and scarcely a place for landing a boat, with reefs and sand shoals running a long way out with breakers.

Collecting new specimens. Digging up bulbs of Ixia, Gladiolus and Haemanthus. Seeing two secretary birds and fetching guns in order to shoot them. Not succeeding in shooting the birds, who were able to see the hunters from a distance on the plains: 'it is only by taking them by surprise that they are to be procured'. Being informed it was illegal to shoot the birds, as they were considered valuable in destroying snakes and other 'noxious' reptiles: 'they kill the snakes by striking them with the soles of their feet'. Shooting a bock-be-carey [bokmakierie] for the first time, although the birds were common. Two boats sent to kill a whale in the bay, harpooning a female whale and a young whale, but due to squalls and rough sea having to let them go. 'They have not procured one at this fishery this season. The loss to the owner will be very considerable, about 20 men for three months and other expenses'.

Seeing rockets fired in the evening from Simon's Bay 24 miles away: 'by these observations the difference of longitude of the two places will be exactly determined'

(15 Aug 1822) Going to Mr Gosling's [?James Gosling] farm. Shooting birds. Collecting plants. Alexander Vidal going out with two boats to Cape Hangclip [Cape Hangklip]. Collecting specimens. Digging up Ixia and Gladiolus.

Seeing vines cultivated, planted in rows forming squares of about four feet. After planting, being pruned and in the winter, soil being laid in the rows to facilitate the vines benefiting from rain. The plants being cut and left without being trellised like they were in Madeira and Teneriffe [Tenerife]. This method giving the wines from the Cape of Good Hope an earthy flavour, 'and no doubt owing to other methods of treatment that give the wine of the other places such a decided superiority'. Vidal returning to the sloop in the evening

(16 Aug 1822) Observing from the shore three boats with Alexander Vidal leaving the sloop towards Cape Hangclip [Cape Hangklip]. A fine morning. Collecting plants on top of the hill accompanied by 'a man'. Collecting fragments of rocks at the foot of the hill and in the bay ('certainly worthy of notice'), with sharp, pointed, blue rocks forming the upper strata, mixed with iron, in particular in the loose stones on the surface. The soil 'of a very indifferent kind', apart from 'some vegetable mould that might be turned to good account' beside small streams. Most of the rivulets drying up during the summer, otherwise they would be better for planting vines than the sand usually used. Collecting bulbs. Adding over 20 plants to the herbarium. The views from the top of the hill extensive 'but not very grateful to the eye', being harsh and barren, with the variety of plants not apparent: 'a person taking a view from one of these heights would not for a moment suppose there was such an endless variety of plants. A botanist who knew nothing of the Cape plants (if such an one could be) would be very agreeably disappointed in walking over a few miles of this land after having viewed it from one of these hills'. The temperature in the tent in the morning 42 degrees and at noon 76 degrees. The temperature outside the tent in the shade 62 degrees. Mean temperature about 68 degrees, with a difference of 26 degrees. The boats returning to the sloop in the evening but not communicating with the party on the shore

(17 Aug 1822) Skinning birds. Shooting new birds. Collecting specimens and bulbs. The wrong season for seeds. Alexander Vidal going towards Cape Hangclip [Cape Hangklip] to finish his observations, having left his spy glass [monocular telescope] on shore the previous day. Landing boats dangerous on the coast, with Vidal having difficulties in landing in the same place as the previous day due to the surf. The boat flooding, the party losing their provisions, saving themselves and the boat, but having to walk 14 or 15 miles to Gordon's Bay without anything to eat. Stopping half way to spend the night, sleeping beside a fire

(18 Aug 1822) Being worried in the morning, having not heard anything from the boat. Another boat going to search for the boat, finding Alexander Vidal and the rest of the party on the beach and taking them back to the sloop. The party being exhausted, having not eaten for 28 hours. Having collected most of the plants in the area and wishing to defer collecting until the last opportunity, their departure being delayed for two more days due to having to retrieve the swamped boat. Skinning birds

[The volume has been reversed, with the following lists at the back of the journal]

(Pages 182-184) 'Seeds, continued'. List of seeds, numbered (specimens 41-61) [continuing from the list of seeds on pages 208-210]. Includes Adansonia digitata ('Mozambique'), a species of Plumeria ('herb, St Mary's Madagascar [Nosy Boraha, Madagascar]'), Corypha africana [Hyphaene coriacea] ('sandy soil, Mozambique'), Borassus flabelliformis [Borassus flabellifer] ('trees 40 feet without a leaf, trunk round, perfectly smooth & glossy. Sandy soil, very magnificent fruit, smells sweet and is eaten by the natives') and [unnamed plant] ('the natives of Mozambique use the juice of this fruit for tattooing their bodies and faces with, they make an incision in the skin and then drop a little of this white juice into the wound which raises a black lump')

(Page 188) 'Birds, Delagoa Bay', 'Algoa Bay', 1823. List of birds, numbered (specimens 59-70), from Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay, Mozambique] (specimens 59-62) and Algoa Bay (specimens 63-70) [continuing from the list of birds on pages 211-216]. Includes a species of Passer ('M [male]. Irids black, gregarious, sings charmingly, kept in cages by the Portuguese'), Vultur ('M. Irids light black, builds in trees near banks of river, said to be fond of human flesh'), 'Corvus?' ('M. Irids yellow, gregarious'), Procellaria equinoctalis [Procellaria aequinoctialis] ('off Cape L'agullas [Cape Agulhas, South Africa]') and Diomedea exulans ('caught with a hook off Cape Aghullas') [here the list includes seven more birds]

(Pages 192-194) 'Case of Green Glass jars, No 21'. List of contents of jars (specimens 1-6), comprising cancer [crab] ('this animal destroys the original inhabitant of several or almost any shell and usurps its place, it has no other protection for its soft abdomen. They are always found on land, sometimes a considerable distance from the water, carrying the shell along with them and on the approach of danger retreating backwards into this safe case'), Orchideae ('grows on the trunk of decaying trees. No leaves but small bracts or stipula, flower white, a little tinged with green, nectary, very elegant, fringed and streaked, very fragrant, large. The Island of Raza [Ilha Epidendro, Mozambique], east coast of Africa'), maffeelee [?African medlar] fruit ('eats like a medlar when beginning to decay, Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay]'), mumpcheese [unidentified] ('the pulp of this fruit is also eaten by the natives of Delagoa and is very excellent, it is something larger than a walnut, of an orange-scarlet colour, thickish skin, with a soft yellow pulp surrounding a stone, of a sweet, luscious, agreeable flavour. The shape is not exactly round, but a little compressed on each side. Shrub six or ten feet high, sandy soil'), maekaanee [?mobola plum] ('this fruit, about the size of a walnut, of a pale yellow colour, sometimes a little russetty, of an irregular round figure, skin thick, pulp soft, pleasant acid, melts in the mouth, covers a hard stone with three seeds in. The natives eat the pulp, and make a pleasant acid drink by putting the stone and pulp into water for a couple of days and then grinding them in a mortar, and mixing the juice from the nut and the water they were steeped in together, and adding a little of the meal of millet grass to thicken it. This drink has then a rough, acid, agreeable taste. They drink this in the heat of the day when they are thirsty, instead of water. The tree grows from 30 to 40 feet high, very branchy, pinnated leaves, red very sandy loam') and namungoo [unidentified] ('this fruit is said to be very excellent when ripe, we found none in that state. Shrub, 10 or 12 feet high, sandy soil')

(Page 198) 'Plants in soil'. List of the contents of boxes (Boxes 1-5) from Isle St Mary's Madagascar [Nosy Boraha] (Boxes 1-2), Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], 1822 (Boxes 3 and 5) and Mozambique, 1823 (Box 4), including Barringtonia speciosa [Barringtonia asiatica], species of Epidendrum ('drawing and specimen, preserved in spirits'), Orchid ('on the stump of a tree in garden'), 'Gloriosa superba?' and a species of Tacca [here the list includes 16 more plants and three seeds]

(Pages 200-206) 'Insects, Delagoa Bay', 1822. List of insects from Delagoa Bay, numbered (specimens 1-104), many unidentified beyond the genus and most not described. Including Coleoptera ('male and female fly at night into houses'), Coleoptera ('fire fly, the light proceeds from the pale yellow band on the abdomen, flies at night'), Hemiptera mantis [Mantodea] ('in an imperfect state, feeds on the petals of No 36, which gives it the beautiful white and carmine colour'), Diptera culex ('bite very painful') and 'Formica?' [here the list includes 99 more insects]

(Pages 208-210) 'Seeds, Delagoa Bay' and 'St Mary's Madagascar', 1822. List of seeds, numbered (specimens 1-40) from Delagoa Bay (specimens 1-6) and St Mary's [Nosy Boraha] (specimens 7-40), including a species of 'Tanaecium?' ('maquaqua [crossed out and replaced with 'calebash' [?bottle gourd (Lagenaria siceraria) or Crescentia cujete], pulp eaten by the natives of Delagoa in a raw state. Specimens of it in spirits, No 1 of jar No 1, large flint glass'), Ixora rosea or madagascarensis [Ixora cuneifolia] ('splendid plant'), 'tree like Heritiera littoralis' ('loamy soil'), Sagus raffia [Raphia vinifera] ('one third of a raceme') and Cycas circinalis ('male part of fructification, St Mary's Madagascar, when in a recent state [fresh] the smell of this flower is almost intolerable, of a strong, sickly, rancid odour, so much so that when this specimen was fresh [freshly] gathered, we were obliged to hang it up in the rigging for near four months, at which time it had not entirely lost its unpleasant smell [annotated: 'this strong smell is no doubt a provision of nature, whereby to accomplish the impregnation of the flower by attracting numbers of insects (which it does) to the male & by this means conveying the pollen to the female flower, which is on a separate tree']') [here the list includes 46 more seeds]

(Pages 211-216) 'Birds (Delagoa Bay)', Oct-Nov 1822, 'Isle of Saint Mary, East Coast Madagascar', Dec 1822, 'Mozambique', 'Delagoa Bay 1823'. List of birds, numbered (specimens 1-59) from Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], Oct-Nov 1822 (specimens 1-21), Isle of Saint Mary, east coast Madagascar [Nosy Boraha], Dec 1822 (specimens 22-28), Mozambique (specimens 29-48) and Delagoa Bay, 1823 (specimens 49-59), with names, gender ('M' or 'F') and a brief description. Including Passer ('M. Irids claret, sings charmingly'), [unnamed bird] ('M. Irids burnt umbra, St Mary, creeps on trees, lost its tail which is very beautiful'), [unnamed bird] ('F. Irids black, flew on board on the 17th off the coast of Africa'), 'Choca-choca' ('native name, M. Irids red') and [unnamed bird] ('F. Irids yellow, region of the eye protruding considerably, of bright yellow colour, bill all deep red') [here the list includes 55 more birds]

(Page 220) 'Specimens of Rocks, Cape G. Hope', 'Rocks Island Saint Mary, east coast of Madagascar'. List of rock specimens from the Cape of Good Hope and from the Island of Saint Mary [Nosy Boraha], numbered (specimens 1-11), including 'upper strata, sometimes above the surface', 'in large fragments, mountains, Gordon's Bay', 'mountains near Simon's Town', 'loose fragments, Gordon's Bay' and [unnamed rock] 'mixed in equal quantities with specimen 10 in the same situation' [here the list includes 6 more rocks]

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1 volume

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RHS archive: plant collector papers

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Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library

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