Journals of John Forbes: Journal 3
Information
Title - Journals of John Forbes: Journal 3
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/3/1/3
Date - 1 May-11 Sep 1822
Scope & content - John Forbes' travel journal, covering the journey from Brazil to South Africa
Overview of contents:
Page 1: Note on copying
Pages 2-5: Blank
Pages 7-59 [folios 1-27]: Narrative of travel, 1 May-7 Jul 1822
Pages 61-113: Narrative of travel, 8 Jul-6 Sep 1822
Pages 115-116: Narrative of travel, 1-11 Sep 1822
Pages 117-127: Narrative of travel, 11-31 Aug 1822
(Pages 113-127 are loose and stored with the volume in a separate folder)
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled '3. Journal, May 1st to September 6th 1822', with pencil annotations. The binding is intact but weak. The edges of the text block are damaged where pages have protruded. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 31.5 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm
From 1 May-18 Aug 1822 the journal appears to be a copy of RHS/Col/3/1/1, with annotations from the original incorporated. Entries for 6 Sep-11 Sep 1822 are also found at the beginning of RHS/Col/3/1/5. Entries for 1-11 Sep 1822 and 11-31 Aug 1822 are repeated on a loose leaf in a different hand and stored in a separate folder
The volume is written in several hands. The end of the volume contains another copy of the entries for 11 Aug-11 Sep in Forbes' own hand (pages 113-127 are loose and stored with the volume in a separate folder). Annotated in pencil by William Owen, captain of HMS Leven (annotations in his hand, unless otherwise indicated) in preparation for the publication of his version of the journey. Annotations include corrections, crossings out and additions, marginal and interlinear annotations, and annotations on the blank verso pages. The more substantial annotations have been included and identified in the description as annotations, whilst minor alterations of spelling or phrasing have not been noted
The volume is written on rectos only.
Original foliation is on the upper right-hand corner of rectos (folios 1-27). The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
The volume includes a loose leaf inserted at the front which reads 'This book is a duplicate of the journal marked I up to page 27'
The volume had two loose enclosures at pages 34-35 and pages 113-127. These enclosures were removed for preservation purposes during cataloguing and stored with the volume in separate folders:
Enclosure 1, originally enclosed between pages 34-35: Journal entry for 23 May 1822
Enclosure 2, loose journal pages 113-127: Journal entries for 2-6 Sep 1822, 1-11 Sep 1822 and 11-31 Aug 1822
Summary of contents:
Note on page 1 in pencil (in William Owen's hand): 'In copying all these journals, the language is to be corrected & numbers of reference & scientific names referred to footnotes, to be numbered in order on each page, 1, 2, 3 etc. All opinions to be omitted & all facts retained. No numerical figures except for references to footnotes to be admitted. The dates to be indented in figures in the margin & the year & month at the head of the page in the margin also'
(1 May 1822) Entering the harbour of Rio de Janeiro [Brazil] and anchoring at St Sebastian [Rio de Janeiro] [annotated in pencil: 'from the day before we made Trinidad we had been accompanied by vast flocks of Mother Cary's chicken [storm petrel], the smallest of seabirds & by the snowy petrel, and, when in sight of land, by numerous frigate birds']. 'The entrance into the harbour is so magnificent and beautiful that one is struck with admiration' on seeing the expanse of water, the inlets and islands, the green of the hills, the villas and the mountains. Being anxious to get on shore the following morning. Anticipating 'a rich harvest from the luxuriant appearance of the vegetation, and was by no means disappointed'. It being mid-winter, another season would have been more fruitful. The temperature rarely below 64°, and sometimes 80° or 84° in the shade. Frequent rain. Many plants not in flower or fruit
(2 May 1822) Preparing to go on shore. Being met by Dr Dickson [John Dickson, British Royal Navy surgeon in Brazil] [annotated in pencil: 'whose surgeon he had formerly been in the Cornelia [William Owen, captain of HMS Leven, commanded HMS Cornelia in 1811-1813 in the East Indies and Java]'], 'to whom I had letters of introduction'. Dickson offering Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen] the use of rooms in his house, but Forbes given the rooms, Owen intending to reside on the ship. Delivering letters to Mr Cunningham [Alexander Cunningham, deputy consul in the absence of Henry Chamberlain, British consul-general in Brazil]: 'I experienced the greatest kindness from this gentleman during our stay here, when I had been out on an excursion I could at any time make his house my home and was at all times most hospitably received'
The town of St Sebastian located to the left of the harbour and surrounded by hills, with a church and a convent on top of each. The streets regular and intersecting each other at right angles, about 20 or 24 feet wide with a channel in the middle, making them dirty and wet: 'the water is sometimes so deep in them that canoes can paddle about in them'. The houses of merchants and 'principal inhabitants' two or three stories high with balconies, 'over which the Portuguese loll from morning to night frequently half dressed, and seem to amuse themselves by spitting into the street'. The houses of the 'lower orders' built in one story with lattice windows opening upwards, 'from under which the inmates peep and indulge in the same indolent propensity as the more wealthy neighbours'. All labour performed by 'negros of all the tribes of Southern Africa', including Mozambique, Angola and Congo, constituting 'near the half [crossed out and replaced with 'the greater part']' of the population: 'the slave trade is here carried on to a great extent. I was informed that not less than 20,000 slaves were sold in Rio market within the last twelve months'
(3 May 1822) Taking papers, presses and collecting boxes on shore to John Dickson's house. Delivering letters to Father Leandro do Sacramento [Carmelite friar and botanist in Brazil] and seeing his extensive and well-preserved collection of birds and insects. Visiting the Public Garden under his charge. Being informed that 'at one time it was in pretty good order and a tolerable collection of plants', having fallen into decay after the king left San Sebastian, 'for want of some proper person to look after it'. The garden now improving under do Sacramento with more plants, including fine mango and Mespilus iaponicus [Eriobotrya japonica] trees, the dense mango foliage forming a pleasant shade in the heat
(4 May 1822) Being introduced by Captain Prescot [Henry Prescott, captain of HMS Aurora] to a Spanish gentleman called Senhor Gervasio Algarate [Gervasio Algarate, botanist in Brazil]: 'he was tolerably well acquainted with the plants in the neighbourhood of Rio and natural history in general'. Making several excursions with him and finding him very intelligent. Collecting several new and rare plants. The land rich and cultivated, with fine oranges, but Forbes not being impressed by the quality or quantity of the esculent vegetables. Watercress and lettuce the only salad vegetables, radish being 'a kind of degenerated turnip radish', but tropical fruits more successful including bananas and tomatoes or love apples (Solanum lycopersicum) [here the journal includes a list of 7 more vegetables and fruits]
(5 May 1822) Going out to Boto Fogo [Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro] three miles south of the city, one of the beautiful inlets in the harbour and residence of many of the 'principal' families, including English merchants with villas. The scenery fine, with a view over the harbour and ships passing the Sugar Loaf [Sugarloaf Mountain, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] and the three forts at the harbour entrance, and Curcuvado Mountains [Mount Corcovado, Brazil] on the other side.
Delivering letters to Brigadier General Gomez [Joao Gomes da Silveira Mendonca, military officer and politician in Brazil]: 'he treated me with great kindness and appointed the following Wednesday to meet me at the Botanic Garden of which he has the management'. Alexander Cunningham taking Forbes to see Mr Binns' ('a merchant here') extensive and well-preserved collection of insects, including the orders Lepidoptera, Hemiptera and Neuroptera. A hot day with clear sky and no wind, temperature 84° in the shade
(6 May 1822) Walking along the aqueduct conveying water to the city. Beautiful views. Collecting plants, but not finding many in flower or fruit. The land good, but generally not cleared of wood. Catching several species of insects, but both insects and birds 'very limited' due to French collectors: 'I met at least half a dozen of these gentlemen on my day's walk'. Returning in the evening with specimens and seeds. Hot day
(7 May 1822) Collecting with Gervasio Algarate on a different road. Finding many new plants, including specimens of the Cecropea [annotated in pencil: 'concolor', Cecropia concolor], which 'makes a very conspicuous object in the woods' with its white leaves resembling blossoms
(8 May 1822) Riding out to see the Botanic Garden with William Owen, William Cutfield [William Cutfield, captain of HMS Barracouta], Alexander Cunningham, Mr Heatherly [Alexander Heatherly, British vice-consul in Brazil] and 'several others', three and a half miles from Bote Fogo [Botafogo], and six and a half or seven miles from the city at the foot of the Curcuvado Mountains [Corcovado] by a bay or inlet, with a good road for most of the year. Seeing many new plants, including the Combretum laxum (specimen 150) covered with golden flowers, and near the beach ('if such it may be called') half an acre covered with the magnificent Meniscium darifolium [?Meniscium, unidentified] (specimen 237) with fronds up to 12 feet long, resembling from a distance Cycas circinalis [annotated in pencil: 'Sago palm' [queen sago]'].
Being received in the garden by Joao Gomes da Silveira Mendonca and being given permission to collect specimens. The garden consisting of four statute acres and one acre of tea plantation, laid out in regular squares and 'kept in pretty neat order'. Trees including the breadfruit tree and the jackfruit tree (Artocarpus incisa and integrifolia) [Artocarpus altilis, Artocarpus integer], clove tree (Caryophyllus aromaticus) [Syzygium aromaticum], chocolate nut (Theobroma cacao) and Cinnamon camphor [Cinnamomum camphora] [here the journal includes 2 more trees]. Not many indigenous plants: 'their object seems to be to introduce the plants of foreign climates, while the equally splendid plants of their own climate are quite neglected'. The tea plantations managed by 'a Chinese brought here for the purpose of taking care of them, but a great deal of it seems stunted and unhealthy'. Being given an excellent dinner by Silveira Mendonca and Alexander Cunningham
Arranging the specimens from the garden and those collected by Forbes himself and William Owen in the adjoining ground with local plants, the latter more interesting and new to Forbes. The clove trees about to blossom. Not having seen the fruit of Artocarpus before, the tree full of beautiful fruit: 'I cannot say so much for its good qualifications ['good qualifications' crossed out in pencil and annotated: 'inviting qualities'] at table; it is a poor substitute for good bread and as a vegetable I do not think at all equal to a good potato'. Not unpleasant, and many of the party liking the fruit, boiled in water. Leaving before sunset. Regretting not being able to procure specimens of plants seen in the morning
(9 May 1822) Turning specimens, drying seeds and putting them in fresh paper. Taking collection boxes and papers on board in the evening. Intending to make an excursion to the other side of the harbour the following day
(10 May 1822) Going out with Mr Osborne [Alick Osborne, surgeon on HMS Leven] to the Braganza side of the harbour. The scenery not as fine as on the city side. The land sandy and well cultivated with cassava, rice, sugar cane and plenty of oranges. Shooting several birds among the orange trees. Returning another way: 'we unfortunately got into the grounds of a churlish Portuguese although all the time we had kept what we supposed to be a public road'. Understanding a little of the Portuguese and the gestures but pretending not to comprehend. Going towards the landing place at Briganza [crossed out by Forbes and replaced with 'Praya Grande [Niteroi, Brazil]']. Buying some refreshment of coffee and eggs at 'a dirty vinda or provision shop, where we paid very dear for it'. Embarking on a passenger boat and boarding the ship at 7pm. Spending the night arranging specimens and skinning birds
(11 May 1822) Going on shore. Changing specimen papers and drying seeds and bird skins. Going to Bote Fogo [Botafogo] in the evening. William Owen purchasing an American steam boat to accompany the ships as a tender and to navigate shallow rivers, with steam machinery taken out and the boat rigged as a schooner, its command being given to Lieutenant Owen [Richard Owen, lieutenant on HMS Leven and commander of the Cockburn]
(12 May 1822) Going out towards the Botanic Garden with Alexander Heatherly. Collecting plants seen on the earlier excursion. Heatherly shooting several birds, including two hummingbirds, but losing several of them in the thick bushes. Finding fine specimens of the beautiful Combretum laxum (specimen 150), Heliconia, Carolinea insignis [Pachira insignis] (specimen 73), Meniscium darifolium [?Meniscium, unidentified] (specimen 237), a genus of ferns not seen before, Vittaria lineata (specimen 239) growing out of the decaying trunks of trees and many other 'curious and beautiful' plants
(13 May 1822) Planting the plants collected in Alexander Cunningham's garden. Rain preventing going out until 4pm. Collecting plants, including Crinum in ditches in water a foot deep and Amaryllis pulverulenta [Hippeastrum striatum] on a sandy bank
(14 May 1822) Pouring with rain. Turning specimens. Packing up specimens ready for an appointment the following morning with Mr Langsdorff [Grigori Langsdorff, also known as Georg von Langsdorff, German-Russian naturalist and consul-general of Russia in Brazil] to go to his estate, Mandioca
(15 May 1822) 'I sent all my things away from Boto Fogo [Botafogo]'. Leaving at dawn to go to Mandioca. Returning to the ship for 'several things that I wished to take with me', Grigori Langsdorff being unable to leave that day, but being unable to board the ship, all the boats and men being busy with the vessel purchased by William Owen: 'the boats to the harbour 'go up with the sea breeze which begins to blow about sunset'. Returning on shore in the evening. Turning specimens, and discovering that small ants had damaged the pulpy seeds: 'they swarm in almost all the houses in Rio and its neighbourhood and devour everything that suits them that comes their way'
(16 May 1822) Being unable to travel due to a [public] holiday and lack of wind. Going out with Alick Osborne. Not seeing many new plants. Going along one of the smaller aqueducts. Being pleased at seeing a tree of Bombax (specimen 149) and on it the beautiful Diamond beetle (Curculio imperialis) [Entimus imperialis]: 'it is only on this tree that this insect is to be met with'. Following the side of the water course until the end of the road. Finding no path in the wood and deciding to return the same way before sunset. Finding some fine plants of Maranta zebrina [Calathea zebrina] and Begonia agrostigma [unidentified] in the woods, neither in flower
(17 May 1822) Embarking on Grigori Langsdorff's boat with Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere, accompanying Captain William Owen on HMS Leven to study hydrography] and Alick Osborne for Porto d'Estrella [Porto da Estrela, Brazil, incorporated into Mage in 1892] between 12 and 1pm. 'The men' having to row most of the way, there being little wind. Passing the numerous islands of Governador or Governor's Island [Ilha do Governador, Brazil], Ilha da'Agua or Water Island [Ilha d'Agua, Brazil], Ilha d'Seca or Dry Island [unidentified] and others, the first the same size as St Helena [Saint Helena, British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha], the second smaller and covered with palm trees, including cocoa nuts (Cocos nucifera) [coconuts], usually not successful in the colder climate of Rio de Janeiro
Arriving at the harbour at 5pm, having enjoyed a pleasant sail and beautiful views. The entrance into the river beyond the harbour 'not very good', with only three or four feet of water and boats liable to become stuck in the mud. The river 20 to 30 yards wide and six to nine yards [crossed out and annotated in pencil: 'three to four fathoms'] deep with low banks and marshy land. Arriving at Porto da Estrela at 8pm. Langsdorff finding lodging for the night 'at the house of the principal people of the village, who treated us very kindly with coffee etc'. The bed cold with only a mat and a sheet or a thin cover: 'although I slept with all my clothes on I never suffered more in bed from cold in my life'. Getting up and walking around the room to get warm, having left his cloak and the rest of his belongings in a locked warehouse
(18 May 1822) Being ready to go for a walk to get warm at dawn. The village being composed of dwelling houses and warehouses by the river: 'it is a place of considerable business', with goods from the interior, including from the Minas [Minas Gerais, Brazil] and St Paul's [Sao Paulo, Brazil], brought on mules, being deposited in the warehouses before being sent by boats to St Sebastian. Passage by boat taking 12 hours, passage by land three days. Boats, covered with a thatch of reeds to accommodate passengers, with 10 to 15 tons of weight leaving every evening at sunset, arriving at St Sebastian the following morning. Receiving some 'very ordinary' coffee and eggs ('for which they made us pay dear enough')
Setting off with three horses for four people. Forbes and Alick Osborne choosing to walk at first to collect birds, intending to collect plants on the return journey. Later having to ride as the public road to the Minas [Minas Gerais] was covered in water, 'up to the horses' bellies', despite 'all the riches of the interior of the Brazils' being brought down that road. The country and the soil of rich loam mixed with decayed vegetable matter and occasionally sandy earth, very fine and suitable for cultivation, but not much being cultivated
Arriving at Mandioca in the afternoon, 10 miles from Porto da Estrela. Having refreshments. Visiting the woods and lands of Grigori Langsdorff. The house being finely situated at the foot of the Organ Mountains [Serra dos Orgaos, Brazil], overlooking a richly wooded and beautiful country. [Crossed out in pencil: 'The soil is a rich loam, well-watered, capable of growing almost anything']. Plantations including coffee, indigo, lemons, rice and several species of Phaseolus [here the journal includes a list of 5 more plants]: 'the negroes are fed a great deal on these and carne seca or jerked beef, that is, beef with most of the bones taken out, salted, and dried in the sun'. Langsdorff having 'formed a little colony here of Europeans he has brought out'
[annotated: 'from Germany. Of these colonists Mr Langsdorff brought about two hundred, but his terms of agreement were loose and much too hard on his people. They therefore evaded his service almost immediately on their arrival, so that he has not perhaps at this time more than fifty attached to him. This Mr Langsdorff is, it appears, a pensioner of Russia, & is the same naturalist landed at St Peter & St Paul of Kamskatchka from La Perouse's ship [Jean-Francois de Galaup de Laperouse, was a French naval officer and explorer, who travelled around the world in 1785-1788. Barthelemy de Lesseps, a Russian interpreter, left the expedition in Kamchatka in 1787 to deliver reports to St Petersburg [Russia]; the rest of the expedition subsequently vanished in 1788 after visiting Australia. Langsdorff did not take part in this expedition, although he did join another expedition with Nikolai Petrovich Rezanov, leading the first Russian circumnavigation, 1803-1806]']
Finding several new plants. Osborne and Charles Lechmere shooting birds, some with beautiful plumage, including 'Loxia mexicana?' [unidentified], Crotophaga ani (specimen 24) and a species of Psittacus. Spending the evening skinning the birds
(19 May 1822) Going into the wood in the morning. Finding a species of Begonia and several other curious plants. Returning along a public road over the mountains, making excursions into the wood. Going along a brook and finding several curious plants and seeds, including the 'singular' Marcgravia umbellata (specimen 99) ['umbellata' crossed out], but not in full flower. Returning to arrange the specimens. Going out with Grigori Langsdorff. Finding plants including two species of Begonia, one without a stem and with oblong, lanceolate leaves (specimens 50 and 51), a curious Oxalis (specimen 78), several curious species of ferns, a Polypodium forming a trunk 15 or 20 feet high, resembling palm trees. The scenery 'romantic and pretty' with a variety of plants. Returning with a load of plants and seeds. Spending the evening arranging them
(20 May 1822) Intending to go to the top of the hill. Planting the plants collected the previous day. Grigori Langsdorff, Charles Lechmere and Alick Osborne setting off, with Forbes following an hour behind. Knowing there were no new plants for a couple of miles, having been on the same road the day before. Reaching Langsdorff, Lechmere and Osborne after about three miles. Seeing a variety of plants. The scenery more varied and beautiful with views over the harbour of Rio de Janeiro with its islands and inlets, extending to the ocean 30 miles away
Stopping at 'one of the vindas or public houses' about four miles from Langsdorff's house. Langsdorff ordering refreshments and Forbes collecting several beautiful and curious plants, including 'Solanum bradypus?' [unidentified] (specimen 57) and ferns. Eating stewed fowl with 'a considerable portion' of garlic, served with beans and port wine, 'which is to be got at all these vindas tolerably good'. The rest of the party not wishing to walk a further two miles after lunch to see the Araucaria growing on top of the hill, and Langsdorff procuring a horse for Forbes
Seeing a 'stately' tree resembling a large Candelabrum [Candelabra] with branches growing out horizontally, about 70 feet high and 12 feet in circumference, with smaller ones in the vicinity: 'I should have been quite satisfied if I had seen nothing but this tree ['but this tree' crossed out and replaced in pencil with 'else'], but I found several other curious plants'. The rest of the party shooting while waiting for Forbes. Collecting plants on the return journey. Spending the evening arranging them and skinning the shot birds. A good road up the hill, about 16 feet wide and paved like a Roman causeway, with the largest stones in the centre. Langsdorff saying that the height of the mountain measured by a barometer was 5,000 feet and the soil excellent up to the top
(21 May 1822) Preparing to return to Rio de Janeiro after breakfast, but being delayed by rain and worrying about missing the boat. Being given horses by Grigori Langsdorff to take them through the flooded roads. Collecting specimens in the afternoon, including [annotated in a blank space: 'Heliconia humilis' [Heliconia psittacorum]] (specimen 32). Arriving at Porto da Estrela at 5pm. Finding refreshments and embarking on board a covered boat bound for St Sebastian. Arriving in the city at daybreak the following morning
(22 May 1822) Charles Lechmere and Alick Osborne taking a small boat to board the ship, while Forbes taking specimens, plants and seeds on shore to John Dickson. Boarding the ship to ascertain the sailing time from William Owen. Returning on shore to arrange the specimens and seeds. Going out to Shackery [chacara], Dickson's country house, to dine and sleep
(23 May 1822) [Entry originally sealed onto the page, removed to Enclosure 1] Botanising around John Dickson's [annotated: 'country'] house. Returning to town. Arranging specimens. Changing specimen papers. Boarding the ship to sleep
(24 May 1822) Receiving soil and planting living plants into a box. Going on shore with William Owen to collect plants on the rocks in the Boto Fogo Bay [Botafogo]. Finding several curious [annotated: 'beautiful'] plants, including two species of Epidendrum (specimens 123 and 124) and two species of Guzmania (specimens 119 and 126) [annotated: 'transferred this Guzmania to the Cape of Good Hope [South Africa]']
(25 May 1822) Bringing moss on shore to pack specimens and seeds collected at Teneriffe [Tenerife, Spain] and Cape de Verds [Cabo Verde]. Changing the paper of specimens collected at Rio [Rio de Janeiro]
(26 May 1822) Packing plants in moss to send to England. Rain all afternoon. Boarding the ship in the evening with the papers and boxes. Intending to go with Charles Lechmere and Alexander Heatherly to the other side of the harbour
(27 May 1822) Leaving the ship at dawn with Charles Lechmere to fetch Alexander Heatherly from Boto Fogo [Botafogo]. The day not looking promising, with occasional rain. Arriving at the other side of the harbour at Three Fathom Bay [Guanabara Bay, Brazil]. The ground low and sandy. Bringing provisions with them from Alexander Cunningham's house [annotated in pencil: 'at Boto Fogo'], intending to visit lakes five or six miles away, but being prevented by bad weather. The country fine and open and the land good with some marshy places, but finding very few snipes or other birds
Staying the night at 'a country vinda'. Setting off with 'two negroes to fetch up our provisions and loaded them with plants on our way'. Stopping to arrange specimens and to leave them at the landing place. Setting off at sunset. The road uphill bad and muddy. Lechmere and Heatherly anxiously waiting at the lodgings. Their room on the ground floor about nine feet long and five wide, with walls of stick and clay, the roof tiles and floor of uneven clay. The room dry, 'but by no means warm, however we spent a tolerable night'. Being annoyed by the croaking of large frogs outside. Raining most of the night
(28 May 1822) Intending to go to the lakes in the morning but rain continuing. Returning to the landing place to wait for the boat at 2pm. Collecting more plants. Charles Lechmere and Alexander Heatherly shooting birds. Rowing to Boto Fogo [Botafogo] taking three and a half hours with contrary winds. Shooting boobies (Pelecanus sula) [Sula sula] and two pintado birds (Procellaria capensis) [Cape petrel, Daption capense] while crossing. Arriving at sunset
(29 May 1822) Rain. Skinning birds and planting plants from Alexander Cunningham's garden. Walking to town in the afternoon
(30 May 1822) Going on board the Beaver, a 10-gun brig, to ask Captain Maclean [Archibald Maclean, captain of HMS Beaver] to take two boxes of specimens and plants to England. Not receiving an answer. Returning on shore to pack plants
(31 May 1822) Going on board the Beaver again, but 'they could not take my plants' [annotated: 'brig loaded with dollars']. Arranging insects in the evening
(1 Jun 1822) Packing and collecting plants
(2 Jun 1822) Packing a box of specimens and seeds. Pitching up the joints of the box to prevent moisture from getting in. Heavy rain
(3 Jun 1822) Going to the museum. The building 'one of the better situated in rather a retired part of the town, kept very clean and neat', but the collection of animals not extensive. Numerous birds, with some fine specimens but not a great variety. The specimens not arranged systematically in the glass cases. Some fine insects, in particular the order Coleoptera and Lepidoptera, arranged without a system in the glass cases 'to please the eye'. Some fine skins of snakes, a fine variety of coral specimens, and an extensive and well-arranged collection of minerals: 'they are the same collection that Werner [Abraham Gottlob Werner, geologist] once possessed, purchased by the King of Portugal [the collection was sold to the Portuguese government, and shipped to Rio de Janeiro in 1807]'. Few shells. Being treated with 'a great deal of civility by the gentlemen who have the superintendence of the museum'
(4 Jun 1822) Heavy rain preventing an excursion to the Curcuvado Mountains [Mount Corcovado] with Grigori Langsdorff. Changing specimen papers. Taking the boxes of plants and specimens on board the Lusitania in the afternoon, for Captain Langdon [William Langdon, captain of the Lusitania] to take to London. Sleeping on board HMS Leven
(5 Jun 1822) [This entry was added later by Forbes, and crossed out in pencil] Raining. Going with Grigori Langsdorff to see Father Leandro do Sacramento
(6 Jun 1822) Going to the Curcuvado Mountains [Mount Corcovado] [annotated: 'This is a beautiful mountain, rising almost perpendicularly from the basin of Boto Fogo [Botafogo] at the back of Mr Cunningham's [Alexander Cunningham] garden to a sharp peak apparently, & thickly wooded to the summit. It was so perpendicular that Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere] pitched a theodolite [a surveying instrument for measuring angles] to the overhanging summit so that his motions were all seen from the acting consul's garden, although the horizontal distance was not apparently so great as the height, or about two thousand feet']
Setting off after breakfast intending to meet with Grigori Langsdorff, having arranged to meet Lechmere on the way. Due to the Feast of Corpus Christi, 'a great gala day with the Portuguese', Lechmere coming to town in uniform to see the procession instead of going to the mountains. Waiting an hour for Langsdorff to accompany him
The road not good due to the rain. Following a stream used for washing linen: 'it is no uncommon sight to see 300 black women standing in the water pelting away the clothes on large stones'. Stopping at a 'vinda' to buy bread, cheese and wine. Collecting specimens of Lecythis coriacea [Eschweilera coriacea] (specimen 120) with yellow flowers from a tree 30 feet high, the capsules not ripe. Passing the house of Count Hogandorff [Dirk van Hogendorp, Dutch officer and secretary of war] with a commanding view. The land a good red loam. Finding a beautiful little Epidendrum (specimen 241) with scarlet blossom, growing on low, rough granite rock, the only specimen of this 'humble beauty'. Finding a 'singular new genus' (specimen 21) with elegant orange compound flowers. Seeing the ruins higher up of the houses of Langsdorff and Henry Chamberlain [annotated in pencil: 'the consul-general'], with fine views over the town and harbour
Seeing a group of fine Araucaria with a 'beautiful and imposing effect from their singular stately appearance'. Finding seeds under the trees. Langsdorff taking some of the seeds already germinated and putting them in damp moss to plant later. Taking some of the seeds to take to the Cape of Good Hope, intending to send home those not sprouted. Eating bread, cheese, wine and oranges. Langsdorff leaving his horse behind. Following a stream. Finding a beautiful Phrynium (specimen 112) with scarlet bracteas [bract], several fine species of ferns including two species of Marattia (specimens 160 and 161), a genus Forbes had not seen before, some beautiful specimens of Trichomanes (specimen 210) running up the tree trunks and 'splendid' Polypodium trees (specimen 162), 25 feet high, with trunks four and a half inches in diameter. The sun setting, being 'obliged reluctantly to return, for we had got into one of nature's botanic gardens', with romantic scenery and a great variety of plants [annotated in pencil: 'so [great] that it was quite impossible to collect specimens of the different species']. Descending the hill in the dark. Stopping at the bottom of the hill at 7pm. Arranging specimens in papers while waiting for coffee
(7 Jun 1822) Boarding the ship to enquire about sailing. William Owen giving Forbes some specimens. Arranging specimens in papers
(8 Jun 1822) Being informed of sailing the following morning. Packing up and purchasing supplies. Taking leave 'of all our kind friends'. Boarding the ship in the evening. Spending the night writing letters and arranging the cabin
(9 Jun 1822) Sailing from Rio de Janeiro at 8.30am. The vessels having to be towed due to no wind. Passing the Forts [Forte Sao Luiz e Fort. John Forbes' travel journal, covering the journey from Brazil to South Africa
Overview of contents:
Page 1: Note on copying
Pages 2-5: Blank
Pages 7-59 [folios 1-27]: Narrative of travel, 1 May-7 Jul 1822
Pages 61-113: Narrative of travel, 8 Jul-6 Sep 1822
Pages 115-116: Narrative of travel, 1-11 Sep 1822
Pages 117-127: Narrative of travel, 11-31 Aug 1822
(Pages 113-127 are loose and stored with the volume in a separate folder)
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled '3. Journal, May 1st to September 6th 1822', with pencil annotations. The binding is intact but weak. The edges of the text block are damaged where pages have protruded. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 31.5 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm
From 1 May-18 Aug 1822 the journal appears to be a copy of RHS/Col/3/1/1, with annotations from the original incorporated. Entries for 6 Sep-11 Sep 1822 are also found at the beginning of RHS/Col/3/1/5. Entries for 1-11 Sep 1822 and 11-31 Aug 1822 are repeated on a loose leaf in a different hand and stored in a separate folder
The volume is written in several hands. The end of the volume contains another copy of the entries for 11 Aug-11 Sep in Forbes' own hand (pages 113-127 are loose and stored with the volume in a separate folder). Annotated in pencil by William Owen, captain of HMS Leven (annotations in his hand, unless otherwise indicated) in preparation for the publication of his version of the journey. Annotations include corrections, crossings out and additions, marginal and interlinear annotations, and annotations on the blank verso pages. The more substantial annotations have been included and identified in the description as annotations, whilst minor alterations of spelling or phrasing have not been noted
The volume is written on rectos only.
Original foliation is on the upper right-hand corner of rectos (folios 1-27). The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
The volume includes a loose leaf inserted at the front which reads 'This book is a duplicate of the journal marked I up to page 27'
The volume had two loose enclosures at pages 34-35 and pages 113-127. These enclosures were removed for preservation purposes during cataloguing and stored with the volume in separate folders:
Enclosure 1, originally enclosed between pages 34-35: Journal entry for 23 May 1822
Enclosure 2, loose journal pages 113-127: Journal entries for 2-6 Sep 1822, 1-11 Sep 1822 and 11-31 Aug 1822
Summary of contents:
Note on page 1 in pencil (in William Owen's hand): 'In copying all these journals, the language is to be corrected & numbers of reference & scientific names referred to footnotes, to be numbered in order on each page, 1, 2, 3 etc. All opinions to be omitted & all facts retained. No numerical figures except for references to footnotes to be admitted. The dates to be indented in figures in the margin & the year & month at the head of the page in the margin also'
(1 May 1822) Entering the harbour of Rio de Janeiro [Brazil] and anchoring at St Sebastian [Rio de Janeiro] [annotated in pencil: 'from the day before we made Trinidad we had been accompanied by vast flocks of Mother Cary's chicken [storm petrel], the smallest of seabirds & by the snowy petrel, and, when in sight of land, by numerous frigate birds']. 'The entrance into the harbour is so magnificent and beautiful that one is struck with admiration' on seeing the expanse of water, the inlets and islands, the green of the hills, the villas and the mountains. Being anxious to get on shore the following morning. Anticipating 'a rich harvest from the luxuriant appearance of the vegetation, and was by no means disappointed'. It being mid-winter, another season would have been more fruitful. The temperature rarely below 64°, and sometimes 80° or 84° in the shade. Frequent rain. Many plants not in flower or fruit
(2 May 1822) Preparing to go on shore. Being met by Dr Dickson [John Dickson, British Royal Navy surgeon in Brazil] [annotated in pencil: 'whose surgeon he had formerly been in the Cornelia [William Owen, captain of HMS Leven, commanded HMS Cornelia in 1811-1813 in the East Indies and Java]'], 'to whom I had letters of introduction'. Dickson offering Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen] the use of rooms in his house, but Forbes given the rooms, Owen intending to reside on the ship. Delivering letters to Mr Cunningham [Alexander Cunningham, deputy consul in the absence of Henry Chamberlain, British consul-general in Brazil]: 'I experienced the greatest kindness from this gentleman during our stay here, when I had been out on an excursion I could at any time make his house my home and was at all times most hospitably received'
The town of St Sebastian located to the left of the harbour and surrounded by hills, with a church and a convent on top of each. The streets regular and intersecting each other at right angles, about 20 or 24 feet wide with a channel in the middle, making them dirty and wet: 'the water is sometimes so deep in them that canoes can paddle about in them'. The houses of merchants and 'principal inhabitants' two or three stories high with balconies, 'over which the Portuguese loll from morning to night frequently half dressed, and seem to amuse themselves by spitting into the street'. The houses of the 'lower orders' built in one story with lattice windows opening upwards, 'from under which the inmates peep and indulge in the same indolent propensity as the more wealthy neighbours'. All labour performed by 'negros of all the tribes of Southern Africa', including Mozambique, Angola and Congo, constituting 'near the half [crossed out and replaced with 'the greater part']' of the population: 'the slave trade is here carried on to a great extent. I was informed that not less than 20,000 slaves were sold in Rio market within the last twelve months'
(3 May 1822) Taking papers, presses and collecting boxes on shore to John Dickson's house. Delivering letters to Father Leandro do Sacramento [Carmelite friar and botanist in Brazil] and seeing his extensive and well-preserved collection of birds and insects. Visiting the Public Garden under his charge. Being informed that 'at one time it was in pretty good order and a tolerable collection of plants', having fallen into decay after the king left San Sebastian, 'for want of some proper person to look after it'. The garden now improving under do Sacramento with more plants, including fine mango and Mespilus iaponicus [Eriobotrya japonica] trees, the dense mango foliage forming a pleasant shade in the heat
(4 May 1822) Being introduced by Captain Prescot [Henry Prescott, captain of HMS Aurora] to a Spanish gentleman called Senhor Gervasio Algarate [Gervasio Algarate, botanist in Brazil]: 'he was tolerably well acquainted with the plants in the neighbourhood of Rio and natural history in general'. Making several excursions with him and finding him very intelligent. Collecting several new and rare plants. The land rich and cultivated, with fine oranges, but Forbes not being impressed by the quality or quantity of the esculent vegetables. Watercress and lettuce the only salad vegetables, radish being 'a kind of degenerated turnip radish', but tropical fruits more successful including bananas and tomatoes or love apples (Solanum lycopersicum) [here the journal includes a list of 7 more vegetables and fruits]
(5 May 1822) Going out to Boto Fogo [Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro] three miles south of the city, one of the beautiful inlets in the harbour and residence of many of the 'principal' families, including English merchants with villas. The scenery fine, with a view over the harbour and ships passing the Sugar Loaf [Sugarloaf Mountain, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] and the three forts at the harbour entrance, and Curcuvado Mountains [Mount Corcovado, Brazil] on the other side.
Delivering letters to Brigadier General Gomez [Joao Gomes da Silveira Mendonca, military officer and politician in Brazil]: 'he treated me with great kindness and appointed the following Wednesday to meet me at the Botanic Garden of which he has the management'. Alexander Cunningham taking Forbes to see Mr Binns' ('a merchant here') extensive and well-preserved collection of insects, including the orders Lepidoptera, Hemiptera and Neuroptera. A hot day with clear sky and no wind, temperature 84° in the shade
(6 May 1822) Walking along the aqueduct conveying water to the city. Beautiful views. Collecting plants, but not finding many in flower or fruit. The land good, but generally not cleared of wood. Catching several species of insects, but both insects and birds 'very limited' due to French collectors: 'I met at least half a dozen of these gentlemen on my day's walk'. Returning in the evening with specimens and seeds. Hot day
(7 May 1822) Collecting with Gervasio Algarate on a different road. Finding many new plants, including specimens of the Cecropea [annotated in pencil: 'concolor', Cecropia concolor], which 'makes a very conspicuous object in the woods' with its white leaves resembling blossoms
(8 May 1822) Riding out to see the Botanic Garden with William Owen, William Cutfield [William Cutfield, captain of HMS Barracouta], Alexander Cunningham, Mr Heatherly [Alexander Heatherly, British vice-consul in Brazil] and 'several others', three and a half miles from Bote Fogo [Botafogo], and six and a half or seven miles from the city at the foot of the Curcuvado Mountains [Corcovado] by a bay or inlet, with a good road for most of the year. Seeing many new plants, including the Combretum laxum (specimen 150) covered with golden flowers, and near the beach ('if such it may be called') half an acre covered with the magnificent Meniscium darifolium [?Meniscium, unidentified] (specimen 237) with fronds up to 12 feet long, resembling from a distance Cycas circinalis [annotated in pencil: 'Sago palm' [queen sago]'].
Being received in the garden by Joao Gomes da Silveira Mendonca and being given permission to collect specimens. The garden consisting of four statute acres and one acre of tea plantation, laid out in regular squares and 'kept in pretty neat order'. Trees including the breadfruit tree and the jackfruit tree (Artocarpus incisa and integrifolia) [Artocarpus altilis, Artocarpus integer], clove tree (Caryophyllus aromaticus) [Syzygium aromaticum], chocolate nut (Theobroma cacao) and Cinnamon camphor [Cinnamomum camphora] [here the journal includes 2 more trees]. Not many indigenous plants: 'their object seems to be to introduce the plants of foreign climates, while the equally splendid plants of their own climate are quite neglected'. The tea plantations managed by 'a Chinese brought here for the purpose of taking care of them, but a great deal of it seems stunted and unhealthy'. Being given an excellent dinner by Silveira Mendonca and Alexander Cunningham
Arranging the specimens from the garden and those collected by Forbes himself and William Owen in the adjoining ground with local plants, the latter more interesting and new to Forbes. The clove trees about to blossom. Not having seen the fruit of Artocarpus before, the tree full of beautiful fruit: 'I cannot say so much for its good qualifications ['good qualifications' crossed out in pencil and annotated: 'inviting qualities'] at table; it is a poor substitute for good bread and as a vegetable I do not think at all equal to a good potato'. Not unpleasant, and many of the party liking the fruit, boiled in water. Leaving before sunset. Regretting not being able to procure specimens of plants seen in the morning
(9 May 1822) Turning specimens, drying seeds and putting them in fresh paper. Taking collection boxes and papers on board in the evening. Intending to make an excursion to the other side of the harbour the following day
(10 May 1822) Going out with Mr Osborne [Alick Osborne, surgeon on HMS Leven] to the Braganza side of the harbour. The scenery not as fine as on the city side. The land sandy and well cultivated with cassava, rice, sugar cane and plenty of oranges. Shooting several birds among the orange trees. Returning another way: 'we unfortunately got into the grounds of a churlish Portuguese although all the time we had kept what we supposed to be a public road'. Understanding a little of the Portuguese and the gestures but pretending not to comprehend. Going towards the landing place at Briganza [crossed out by Forbes and replaced with 'Praya Grande [Niteroi, Brazil]']. Buying some refreshment of coffee and eggs at 'a dirty vinda or provision shop, where we paid very dear for it'. Embarking on a passenger boat and boarding the ship at 7pm. Spending the night arranging specimens and skinning birds
(11 May 1822) Going on shore. Changing specimen papers and drying seeds and bird skins. Going to Bote Fogo [Botafogo] in the evening. William Owen purchasing an American steam boat to accompany the ships as a tender and to navigate shallow rivers, with steam machinery taken out and the boat rigged as a schooner, its command being given to Lieutenant Owen [Richard Owen, lieutenant on HMS Leven and commander of the Cockburn]
(12 May 1822) Going out towards the Botanic Garden with Alexander Heatherly. Collecting plants seen on the earlier excursion. Heatherly shooting several birds, including two hummingbirds, but losing several of them in the thick bushes. Finding fine specimens of the beautiful Combretum laxum (specimen 150), Heliconia, Carolinea insignis [Pachira insignis] (specimen 73), Meniscium darifolium [?Meniscium, unidentified] (specimen 237), a genus of ferns not seen before, Vittaria lineata (specimen 239) growing out of the decaying trunks of trees and many other 'curious and beautiful' plants
(13 May 1822) Planting the plants collected in Alexander Cunningham's garden. Rain preventing going out until 4pm. Collecting plants, including Crinum in ditches in water a foot deep and Amaryllis pulverulenta [Hippeastrum striatum] on a sandy bank
(14 May 1822) Pouring with rain. Turning specimens. Packing up specimens ready for an appointment the following morning with Mr Langsdorff [Grigori Langsdorff, also known as Georg von Langsdorff, German-Russian naturalist and consul-general of Russia in Brazil] to go to his estate, Mandioca
(15 May 1822) 'I sent all my things away from Boto Fogo [Botafogo]'. Leaving at dawn to go to Mandioca. Returning to the ship for 'several things that I wished to take with me', Grigori Langsdorff being unable to leave that day, but being unable to board the ship, all the boats and men being busy with the vessel purchased by William Owen: 'the boats to the harbour 'go up with the sea breeze which begins to blow about sunset'. Returning on shore in the evening. Turning specimens, and discovering that small ants had damaged the pulpy seeds: 'they swarm in almost all the houses in Rio and its neighbourhood and devour everything that suits them that comes their way'
(16 May 1822) Being unable to travel due to a [public] holiday and lack of wind. Going out with Alick Osborne. Not seeing many new plants. Going along one of the smaller aqueducts. Being pleased at seeing a tree of Bombax (specimen 149) and on it the beautiful Diamond beetle (Curculio imperialis) [Entimus imperialis]: 'it is only on this tree that this insect is to be met with'. Following the side of the water course until the end of the road. Finding no path in the wood and deciding to return the same way before sunset. Finding some fine plants of Maranta zebrina [Calathea zebrina] and Begonia agrostigma [unidentified] in the woods, neither in flower
(17 May 1822) Embarking on Grigori Langsdorff's boat with Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere, accompanying Captain William Owen on HMS Leven to study hydrography] and Alick Osborne for Porto d'Estrella [Porto da Estrela, Brazil, incorporated into Mage in 1892] between 12 and 1pm. 'The men' having to row most of the way, there being little wind. Passing the numerous islands of Governador or Governor's Island [Ilha do Governador, Brazil], Ilha da'Agua or Water Island [Ilha d'Agua, Brazil], Ilha d'Seca or Dry Island [unidentified] and others, the first the same size as St Helena [Saint Helena, British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha], the second smaller and covered with palm trees, including cocoa nuts (Cocos nucifera) [coconuts], usually not successful in the colder climate of Rio de Janeiro
Arriving at the harbour at 5pm, having enjoyed a pleasant sail and beautiful views. The entrance into the river beyond the harbour 'not very good', with only three or four feet of water and boats liable to become stuck in the mud. The river 20 to 30 yards wide and six to nine yards [crossed out and annotated in pencil: 'three to four fathoms'] deep with low banks and marshy land. Arriving at Porto da Estrela at 8pm. Langsdorff finding lodging for the night 'at the house of the principal people of the village, who treated us very kindly with coffee etc'. The bed cold with only a mat and a sheet or a thin cover: 'although I slept with all my clothes on I never suffered more in bed from cold in my life'. Getting up and walking around the room to get warm, having left his cloak and the rest of his belongings in a locked warehouse
(18 May 1822) Being ready to go for a walk to get warm at dawn. The village being composed of dwelling houses and warehouses by the river: 'it is a place of considerable business', with goods from the interior, including from the Minas [Minas Gerais, Brazil] and St Paul's [Sao Paulo, Brazil], brought on mules, being deposited in the warehouses before being sent by boats to St Sebastian. Passage by boat taking 12 hours, passage by land three days. Boats, covered with a thatch of reeds to accommodate passengers, with 10 to 15 tons of weight leaving every evening at sunset, arriving at St Sebastian the following morning. Receiving some 'very ordinary' coffee and eggs ('for which they made us pay dear enough')
Setting off with three horses for four people. Forbes and Alick Osborne choosing to walk at first to collect birds, intending to collect plants on the return journey. Later having to ride as the public road to the Minas [Minas Gerais] was covered in water, 'up to the horses' bellies', despite 'all the riches of the interior of the Brazils' being brought down that road. The country and the soil of rich loam mixed with decayed vegetable matter and occasionally sandy earth, very fine and suitable for cultivation, but not much being cultivated
Arriving at Mandioca in the afternoon, 10 miles from Porto da Estrela. Having refreshments. Visiting the woods and lands of Grigori Langsdorff. The house being finely situated at the foot of the Organ Mountains [Serra dos Orgaos, Brazil], overlooking a richly wooded and beautiful country. [Crossed out in pencil: 'The soil is a rich loam, well-watered, capable of growing almost anything']. Plantations including coffee, indigo, lemons, rice and several species of Phaseolus [here the journal includes a list of 5 more plants]: 'the negroes are fed a great deal on these and carne seca or jerked beef, that is, beef with most of the bones taken out, salted, and dried in the sun'. Langsdorff having 'formed a little colony here of Europeans he has brought out'
[annotated: 'from Germany. Of these colonists Mr Langsdorff brought about two hundred, but his terms of agreement were loose and much too hard on his people. They therefore evaded his service almost immediately on their arrival, so that he has not perhaps at this time more than fifty attached to him. This Mr Langsdorff is, it appears, a pensioner of Russia, & is the same naturalist landed at St Peter & St Paul of Kamskatchka from La Perouse's ship [Jean-Francois de Galaup de Laperouse, was a French naval officer and explorer, who travelled around the world in 1785-1788. Barthelemy de Lesseps, a Russian interpreter, left the expedition in Kamchatka in 1787 to deliver reports to St Petersburg [Russia]; the rest of the expedition subsequently vanished in 1788 after visiting Australia. Langsdorff did not take part in this expedition, although he did join another expedition with Nikolai Petrovich Rezanov, leading the first Russian circumnavigation, 1803-1806]']
Finding several new plants. Osborne and Charles Lechmere shooting birds, some with beautiful plumage, including 'Loxia mexicana?' [unidentified], Crotophaga ani (specimen 24) and a species of Psittacus. Spending the evening skinning the birds
(19 May 1822) Going into the wood in the morning. Finding a species of Begonia and several other curious plants. Returning along a public road over the mountains, making excursions into the wood. Going along a brook and finding several curious plants and seeds, including the 'singular' Marcgravia umbellata (specimen 99) ['umbellata' crossed out], but not in full flower. Returning to arrange the specimens. Going out with Grigori Langsdorff. Finding plants including two species of Begonia, one without a stem and with oblong, lanceolate leaves (specimens 50 and 51), a curious Oxalis (specimen 78), several curious species of ferns, a Polypodium forming a trunk 15 or 20 feet high, resembling palm trees. The scenery 'romantic and pretty' with a variety of plants. Returning with a load of plants and seeds. Spending the evening arranging them
(20 May 1822) Intending to go to the top of the hill. Planting the plants collected the previous day. Grigori Langsdorff, Charles Lechmere and Alick Osborne setting off, with Forbes following an hour behind. Knowing there were no new plants for a couple of miles, having been on the same road the day before. Reaching Langsdorff, Lechmere and Osborne after about three miles. Seeing a variety of plants. The scenery more varied and beautiful with views over the harbour of Rio de Janeiro with its islands and inlets, extending to the ocean 30 miles away
Stopping at 'one of the vindas or public houses' about four miles from Langsdorff's house. Langsdorff ordering refreshments and Forbes collecting several beautiful and curious plants, including 'Solanum bradypus?' [unidentified] (specimen 57) and ferns. Eating stewed fowl with 'a considerable portion' of garlic, served with beans and port wine, 'which is to be got at all these vindas tolerably good'. The rest of the party not wishing to walk a further two miles after lunch to see the Araucaria growing on top of the hill, and Langsdorff procuring a horse for Forbes
Seeing a 'stately' tree resembling a large Candelabrum [Candelabra] with branches growing out horizontally, about 70 feet high and 12 feet in circumference, with smaller ones in the vicinity: 'I should have been quite satisfied if I had seen nothing but this tree ['but this tree' crossed out and replaced in pencil with 'else'], but I found several other curious plants'. The rest of the party shooting while waiting for Forbes. Collecting plants on the return journey. Spending the evening arranging them and skinning the shot birds. A good road up the hill, about 16 feet wide and paved like a Roman causeway, with the largest stones in the centre. Langsdorff saying that the height of the mountain measured by a barometer was 5,000 feet and the soil excellent up to the top
(21 May 1822) Preparing to return to Rio de Janeiro after breakfast, but being delayed by rain and worrying about missing the boat. Being given horses by Grigori Langsdorff to take them through the flooded roads. Collecting specimens in the afternoon, including [annotated in a blank space: 'Heliconia humilis' [Heliconia psittacorum]] (specimen 32). Arriving at Porto da Estrela at 5pm. Finding refreshments and embarking on board a covered boat bound for St Sebastian. Arriving in the city at daybreak the following morning
(22 May 1822) Charles Lechmere and Alick Osborne taking a small boat to board the ship, while Forbes taking specimens, plants and seeds on shore to John Dickson. Boarding the ship to ascertain the sailing time from William Owen. Returning on shore to arrange the specimens and seeds. Going out to Shackery [chacara], Dickson's country house, to dine and sleep
(23 May 1822) [Entry originally sealed onto the page, removed to Enclosure 1] Botanising around John Dickson's [annotated: 'country'] house. Returning to town. Arranging specimens. Changing specimen papers. Boarding the ship to sleep
(24 May 1822) Receiving soil and planting living plants into a box. Going on shore with William Owen to collect plants on the rocks in the Boto Fogo Bay [Botafogo]. Finding several curious [annotated: 'beautiful'] plants, including two species of Epidendrum (specimens 123 and 124) and two species of Guzmania (specimens 119 and 126) [annotated: 'transferred this Guzmania to the Cape of Good Hope [South Africa]']
(25 May 1822) Bringing moss on shore to pack specimens and seeds collected at Teneriffe [Tenerife, Spain] and Cape de Verds [Cabo Verde]. Changing the paper of specimens collected at Rio [Rio de Janeiro]
(26 May 1822) Packing plants in moss to send to England. Rain all afternoon. Boarding the ship in the evening with the papers and boxes. Intending to go with Charles Lechmere and Alexander Heatherly to the other side of the harbour
(27 May 1822) Leaving the ship at dawn with Charles Lechmere to fetch Alexander Heatherly from Boto Fogo [Botafogo]. The day not looking promising, with occasional rain. Arriving at the other side of the harbour at Three Fathom Bay [Guanabara Bay, Brazil]. The ground low and sandy. Bringing provisions with them from Alexander Cunningham's house [annotated in pencil: 'at Boto Fogo'], intending to visit lakes five or six miles away, but being prevented by bad weather. The country fine and open and the land good with some marshy places, but finding very few snipes or other birds
Staying the night at 'a country vinda'. Setting off with 'two negroes to fetch up our provisions and loaded them with plants on our way'. Stopping to arrange specimens and to leave them at the landing place. Setting off at sunset. The road uphill bad and muddy. Lechmere and Heatherly anxiously waiting at the lodgings. Their room on the ground floor about nine feet long and five wide, with walls of stick and clay, the roof tiles and floor of uneven clay. The room dry, 'but by no means warm, however we spent a tolerable night'. Being annoyed by the croaking of large frogs outside. Raining most of the night
(28 May 1822) Intending to go to the lakes in the morning but rain continuing. Returning to the landing place to wait for the boat at 2pm. Collecting more plants. Charles Lechmere and Alexander Heatherly shooting birds. Rowing to Boto Fogo [Botafogo] taking three and a half hours with contrary winds. Shooting boobies (Pelecanus sula) [Sula sula] and two pintado birds (Procellaria capensis) [Cape petrel, Daption capense] while crossing. Arriving at sunset
(29 May 1822) Rain. Skinning birds and planting plants from Alexander Cunningham's garden. Walking to town in the afternoon
(30 May 1822) Going on board the Beaver, a 10-gun brig, to ask Captain Maclean [Archibald Maclean, captain of HMS Beaver] to take two boxes of specimens and plants to England. Not receiving an answer. Returning on shore to pack plants
(31 May 1822) Going on board the Beaver again, but 'they could not take my plants' [annotated: 'brig loaded with dollars']. Arranging insects in the evening
(1 Jun 1822) Packing and collecting plants
(2 Jun 1822) Packing a box of specimens and seeds. Pitching up the joints of the box to prevent moisture from getting in. Heavy rain
(3 Jun 1822) Going to the museum. The building 'one of the better situated in rather a retired part of the town, kept very clean and neat', but the collection of animals not extensive. Numerous birds, with some fine specimens but not a great variety. The specimens not arranged systematically in the glass cases. Some fine insects, in particular the order Coleoptera and Lepidoptera, arranged without a system in the glass cases 'to please the eye'. Some fine skins of snakes, a fine variety of coral specimens, and an extensive and well-arranged collection of minerals: 'they are the same collection that Werner [Abraham Gottlob Werner, geologist] once possessed, purchased by the King of Portugal [the collection was sold to the Portuguese government, and shipped to Rio de Janeiro in 1807]'. Few shells. Being treated with 'a great deal of civility by the gentlemen who have the superintendence of the museum'
(4 Jun 1822) Heavy rain preventing an excursion to the Curcuvado Mountains [Mount Corcovado] with Grigori Langsdorff. Changing specimen papers. Taking the boxes of plants and specimens on board the Lusitania in the afternoon, for Captain Langdon [William Langdon, captain of the Lusitania] to take to London. Sleeping on board HMS Leven
(5 Jun 1822) [This entry was added later by Forbes, and crossed out in pencil] Raining. Going with Grigori Langsdorff to see Father Leandro do Sacramento
(6 Jun 1822) Going to the Curcuvado Mountains [Mount Corcovado] [annotated: 'This is a beautiful mountain, rising almost perpendicularly from the basin of Boto Fogo [Botafogo] at the back of Mr Cunningham's [Alexander Cunningham] garden to a sharp peak apparently, & thickly wooded to the summit. It was so perpendicular that Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere] pitched a theodolite [a surveying instrument for measuring angles] to the overhanging summit so that his motions were all seen from the acting consul's garden, although the horizontal distance was not apparently so great as the height, or about two thousand feet']
Setting off after breakfast intending to meet with Grigori Langsdorff, having arranged to meet Lechmere on the way. Due to the Feast of Corpus Christi, 'a great gala day with the Portuguese', Lechmere coming to town in uniform to see the procession instead of going to the mountains. Waiting an hour for Langsdorff to accompany him
The road not good due to the rain. Following a stream used for washing linen: 'it is no uncommon sight to see 300 black women standing in the water pelting away the clothes on large stones'. Stopping at a 'vinda' to buy bread, cheese and wine. Collecting specimens of Lecythis coriacea [Eschweilera coriacea] (specimen 120) with yellow flowers from a tree 30 feet high, the capsules not ripe. Passing the house of Count Hogandorff [Dirk van Hogendorp, Dutch officer and secretary of war] with a commanding view. The land a good red loam. Finding a beautiful little Epidendrum (specimen 241) with scarlet blossom, growing on low, rough granite rock, the only specimen of this 'humble beauty'. Finding a 'singular new genus' (specimen 21) with elegant orange compound flowers. Seeing the ruins higher up of the houses of Langsdorff and Henry Chamberlain [annotated in pencil: 'the consul-general'], with fine views over the town and harbour
Seeing a group of fine Araucaria with a 'beautiful and imposing effect from their singular stately appearance'. Finding seeds under the trees. Langsdorff taking some of the seeds already germinated and putting them in damp moss to plant later. Taking some of the seeds to take to the Cape of Good Hope, intending to send home those not sprouted. Eating bread, cheese, wine and oranges. Langsdorff leaving his horse behind. Following a stream. Finding a beautiful Phrynium (specimen 112) with scarlet bracteas [bract], several fine species of ferns including two species of Marattia (specimens 160 and 161), a genus Forbes had not seen before, some beautiful specimens of Trichomanes (specimen 210) running up the tree trunks and 'splendid' Polypodium trees (specimen 162), 25 feet high, with trunks four and a half inches in diameter. The sun setting, being 'obliged reluctantly to return, for we had got into one of nature's botanic gardens', with romantic scenery and a great variety of plants [annotated in pencil: 'so [great] that it was quite impossible to collect specimens of the different species']. Descending the hill in the dark. Stopping at the bottom of the hill at 7pm. Arranging specimens in papers while waiting for coffee
(7 Jun 1822) Boarding the ship to enquire about sailing. William Owen giving Forbes some specimens. Arranging specimens in papers
(8 Jun 1822) Being informed of sailing the following morning. Packing up and purchasing supplies. Taking leave 'of all our kind friends'. Boarding the ship in the evening. Spending the night writing letters and arranging the cabin
(9 Jun 1822) Sailing from Rio de Janeiro at 8.30am. The vessels having to be towed due to no wind. Passing the Forts [Forte Sao Luiz e Fort
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