Journals of John Forbes: Journal 3

Title

Journals of John Forbes: Journal 3

Record type

Archive

Original Reference

RHS/Col/3/1/3

Date

1 May-11 Sep 1822

Scope & content

John Forbes' travel journal, covering the journey from Brazil to South Africa

Overview of contents:
Page 1: Note on copying
Pages 2-5: Blank
Pages 7-59 [folios 1-27]: Narrative of travel, 1 May-7 Jul 1822
Pages 61-113: Narrative of travel, 8 Jul-6 Sep 1822
Pages 115-116: Narrative of travel, 1-11 Sep 1822
Pages 117-127: Narrative of travel, 11-31 Aug 1822
(Pages 113-127 are loose and stored with the volume in a separate folder)

Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled '3. Journal, May 1st to September 6th 1822', with pencil annotations. The binding is intact but weak. The edges of the text block are damaged where pages have protruded. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 31.5 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm

From 1 May-18 Aug 1822 the journal appears to be a copy of RHS/Col/3/1/1, with annotations from the original incorporated. Entries for 6 Sep-11 Sep 1822 are also found at the beginning of RHS/Col/3/1/5. Entries for 1-11 Sep 1822 and 11-31 Aug 1822 are repeated on a loose leaf in a different hand and stored in a separate folder

The volume is written in several hands. The end of the volume contains another copy of the entries for 11 Aug-11 Sep in Forbes' own hand (pages 113-127 are loose and stored with the volume in a separate folder). Annotated in pencil by William Owen, captain of HMS Leven (annotations in his hand, unless otherwise indicated) in preparation for the publication of his version of the journey. Annotations include corrections, crossings out and additions, marginal and interlinear annotations, and annotations on the blank verso pages. The more substantial annotations have been included and identified in the description as annotations, whilst minor alterations of spelling or phrasing have not been noted

The volume is written on rectos only.

Original foliation is on the upper right-hand corner of rectos (folios 1-27). The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing

The volume includes a loose leaf inserted at the front which reads 'This book is a duplicate of the journal marked I up to page 27'

The volume had two loose enclosures at pages 34-35 and pages 113-127. These enclosures were removed for preservation purposes during cataloguing and stored with the volume in separate folders:
Enclosure 1, originally enclosed between pages 34-35: Journal entry for 23 May 1822
Enclosure 2, loose journal pages 113-127: Journal entries for 2-6 Sep 1822, 1-11 Sep 1822 and 11-31 Aug 1822

Summary of contents:

Note on page 1 in pencil (in William Owen's hand): 'In copying all these journals, the language is to be corrected & numbers of reference & scientific names referred to footnotes, to be numbered in order on each page, 1, 2, 3 etc. All opinions to be omitted & all facts retained. No numerical figures except for references to footnotes to be admitted. The dates to be indented in figures in the margin & the year & month at the head of the page in the margin also'

(1 May 1822) Entering the harbour of Rio de Janeiro [Brazil] and anchoring at St Sebastian [Rio de Janeiro] [annotated in pencil: 'from the day before we made Trinidad we had been accompanied by vast flocks of Mother Cary's chicken [storm petrel], the smallest of seabirds & by the snowy petrel, and, when in sight of land, by numerous frigate birds']. 'The entrance into the harbour is so magnificent and beautiful that one is struck with admiration' on seeing the expanse of water, the inlets and islands, the green of the hills, the villas and the mountains. Being anxious to get on shore the following morning. Anticipating 'a rich harvest from the luxuriant appearance of the vegetation, and was by no means disappointed'. It being mid-winter, another season would have been more fruitful. The temperature rarely below 64°, and sometimes 80° or 84° in the shade. Frequent rain. Many plants not in flower or fruit

(2 May 1822) Preparing to go on shore. Being met by Dr Dickson [John Dickson, British Royal Navy surgeon in Brazil] [annotated in pencil: 'whose surgeon he had formerly been in the Cornelia [William Owen, captain of HMS Leven, commanded HMS Cornelia in 1811-1813 in the East Indies and Java]'], 'to whom I had letters of introduction'. Dickson offering Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen] the use of rooms in his house, but Forbes given the rooms, Owen intending to reside on the ship. Delivering letters to Mr Cunningham [Alexander Cunningham, deputy consul in the absence of Henry Chamberlain, British consul-general in Brazil]: 'I experienced the greatest kindness from this gentleman during our stay here, when I had been out on an excursion I could at any time make his house my home and was at all times most hospitably received'

The town of St Sebastian located to the left of the harbour and surrounded by hills, with a church and a convent on top of each. The streets regular and intersecting each other at right angles, about 20 or 24 feet wide with a channel in the middle, making them dirty and wet: 'the water is sometimes so deep in them that canoes can paddle about in them'. The houses of merchants and 'principal inhabitants' two or three stories high with balconies, 'over which the Portuguese loll from morning to night frequently half dressed, and seem to amuse themselves by spitting into the street'. The houses of the 'lower orders' built in one story with lattice windows opening upwards, 'from under which the inmates peep and indulge in the same indolent propensity as the more wealthy neighbours'. All labour performed by 'negros of all the tribes of Southern Africa', including Mozambique, Angola and Congo, constituting 'near the half [crossed out and replaced with 'the greater part']' of the population: 'the slave trade is here carried on to a great extent. I was informed that not less than 20,000 slaves were sold in Rio market within the last twelve months'

(3 May 1822) Taking papers, presses and collecting boxes on shore to John Dickson's house. Delivering letters to Father Leandro do Sacramento [Carmelite friar and botanist in Brazil] and seeing his extensive and well-preserved collection of birds and insects. Visiting the Public Garden under his charge. Being informed that 'at one time it was in pretty good order and a tolerable collection of plants', having fallen into decay after the king left San Sebastian, 'for want of some proper person to look after it'. The garden now improving under do Sacramento with more plants, including fine mango and Mespilus iaponicus [Eriobotrya japonica] trees, the dense mango foliage forming a pleasant shade in the heat

(4 May 1822) Being introduced by Captain Prescot [Henry Prescott, captain of HMS Aurora] to a Spanish gentleman called Senhor Gervasio Algarate [Gervasio Algarate, botanist in Brazil]: 'he was tolerably well acquainted with the plants in the neighbourhood of Rio and natural history in general'. Making several excursions with him and finding him very intelligent. Collecting several new and rare plants. The land rich and cultivated, with fine oranges, but Forbes not being impressed by the quality or quantity of the esculent vegetables. Watercress and lettuce the only salad vegetables, radish being 'a kind of degenerated turnip radish', but tropical fruits more successful including bananas and tomatoes or love apples (Solanum lycopersicum) [here the journal includes a list of 7 more vegetables and fruits]

(5 May 1822) Going out to Boto Fogo [Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro] three miles south of the city, one of the beautiful inlets in the harbour and residence of many of the 'principal' families, including English merchants with villas. The scenery fine, with a view over the harbour and ships passing the Sugar Loaf [Sugarloaf Mountain, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] and the three forts at the harbour entrance, and Curcuvado Mountains [Mount Corcovado, Brazil] on the other side.

Delivering letters to Brigadier General Gomez [Joao Gomes da Silveira Mendonca, military officer and politician in Brazil]: 'he treated me with great kindness and appointed the following Wednesday to meet me at the Botanic Garden of which he has the management'. Alexander Cunningham taking Forbes to see Mr Binns' ('a merchant here') extensive and well-preserved collection of insects, including the orders Lepidoptera, Hemiptera and Neuroptera. A hot day with clear sky and no wind, temperature 84° in the shade

(6 May 1822) Walking along the aqueduct conveying water to the city. Beautiful views. Collecting plants, but not finding many in flower or fruit. The land good, but generally not cleared of wood. Catching several species of insects, but both insects and birds 'very limited' due to French collectors: 'I met at least half a dozen of these gentlemen on my day's walk'. Returning in the evening with specimens and seeds. Hot day

(7 May 1822) Collecting with Gervasio Algarate on a different road. Finding many new plants, including specimens of the Cecropea [annotated in pencil: 'concolor', Cecropia concolor], which 'makes a very conspicuous object in the woods' with its white leaves resembling blossoms

(8 May 1822) Riding out to see the Botanic Garden with William Owen, William Cutfield [William Cutfield, captain of HMS Barracouta], Alexander Cunningham, Mr Heatherly [Alexander Heatherly, British vice-consul in Brazil] and 'several others', three and a half miles from Bote Fogo [Botafogo], and six and a half or seven miles from the city at the foot of the Curcuvado Mountains [Corcovado] by a bay or inlet, with a good road for most of the year. Seeing many new plants, including the Combretum laxum (specimen 150) covered with golden flowers, and near the beach ('if such it may be called') half an acre covered with the magnificent Meniscium darifolium [?Meniscium, unidentified] (specimen 237) with fronds up to 12 feet long, resembling from a distance Cycas circinalis [annotated in pencil: 'Sago palm' [queen sago]'].

Being received in the garden by Joao Gomes da Silveira Mendonca and being given permission to collect specimens. The garden consisting of four statute acres and one acre of tea plantation, laid out in regular squares and 'kept in pretty neat order'. Trees including the breadfruit tree and the jackfruit tree (Artocarpus incisa and integrifolia) [Artocarpus altilis, Artocarpus integer], clove tree (Caryophyllus aromaticus) [Syzygium aromaticum], chocolate nut (Theobroma cacao) and Cinnamon camphor [Cinnamomum camphora] [here the journal includes 2 more trees]. Not many indigenous plants: 'their object seems to be to introduce the plants of foreign climates, while the equally splendid plants of their own climate are quite neglected'. The tea plantations managed by 'a Chinese brought here for the purpose of taking care of them, but a great deal of it seems stunted and unhealthy'. Being given an excellent dinner by Silveira Mendonca and Alexander Cunningham

Arranging the specimens from the garden and those collected by Forbes himself and William Owen in the adjoining ground with local plants, the latter more interesting and new to Forbes. The clove trees about to blossom. Not having seen the fruit of Artocarpus before, the tree full of beautiful fruit: 'I cannot say so much for its good qualifications ['good qualifications' crossed out in pencil and annotated: 'inviting qualities'] at table; it is a poor substitute for good bread and as a vegetable I do not think at all equal to a good potato'. Not unpleasant, and many of the party liking the fruit, boiled in water. Leaving before sunset. Regretting not being able to procure specimens of plants seen in the morning

(9 May 1822) Turning specimens, drying seeds and putting them in fresh paper. Taking collection boxes and papers on board in the evening. Intending to make an excursion to the other side of the harbour the following day

(10 May 1822) Going out with Mr Osborne [Alick Osborne, surgeon on HMS Leven] to the Braganza side of the harbour. The scenery not as fine as on the city side. The land sandy and well cultivated with cassava, rice, sugar cane and plenty of oranges. Shooting several birds among the orange trees. Returning another way: 'we unfortunately got into the grounds of a churlish Portuguese although all the time we had kept what we supposed to be a public road'. Understanding a little of the Portuguese and the gestures but pretending not to comprehend. Going towards the landing place at Briganza [crossed out by Forbes and replaced with 'Praya Grande [Niteroi, Brazil]']. Buying some refreshment of coffee and eggs at 'a dirty vinda or provision shop, where we paid very dear for it'. Embarking on a passenger boat and boarding the ship at 7pm. Spending the night arranging specimens and skinning birds

(11 May 1822) Going on shore. Changing specimen papers and drying seeds and bird skins. Going to Bote Fogo [Botafogo] in the evening. William Owen purchasing an American steam boat to accompany the ships as a tender and to navigate shallow rivers, with steam machinery taken out and the boat rigged as a schooner, its command being given to Lieutenant Owen [Richard Owen, lieutenant on HMS Leven and commander of the Cockburn]

(12 May 1822) Going out towards the Botanic Garden with Alexander Heatherly. Collecting plants seen on the earlier excursion. Heatherly shooting several birds, including two hummingbirds, but losing several of them in the thick bushes. Finding fine specimens of the beautiful Combretum laxum (specimen 150), Heliconia, Carolinea insignis [Pachira insignis] (specimen 73), Meniscium darifolium [?Meniscium, unidentified] (specimen 237), a genus of ferns not seen before, Vittaria lineata (specimen 239) growing out of the decaying trunks of trees and many other 'curious and beautiful' plants

(13 May 1822) Planting the plants collected in Alexander Cunningham's garden. Rain preventing going out until 4pm. Collecting plants, including Crinum in ditches in water a foot deep and Amaryllis pulverulenta [Hippeastrum striatum] on a sandy bank

(14 May 1822) Pouring with rain. Turning specimens. Packing up specimens ready for an appointment the following morning with Mr Langsdorff [Grigori Langsdorff, also known as Georg von Langsdorff, German-Russian naturalist and consul-general of Russia in Brazil] to go to his estate, Mandioca

(15 May 1822) 'I sent all my things away from Boto Fogo [Botafogo]'. Leaving at dawn to go to Mandioca. Returning to the ship for 'several things that I wished to take with me', Grigori Langsdorff being unable to leave that day, but being unable to board the ship, all the boats and men being busy with the vessel purchased by William Owen: 'the boats to the harbour 'go up with the sea breeze which begins to blow about sunset'. Returning on shore in the evening. Turning specimens, and discovering that small ants had damaged the pulpy seeds: 'they swarm in almost all the houses in Rio and its neighbourhood and devour everything that suits them that comes their way'

(16 May 1822) Being unable to travel due to a [public] holiday and lack of wind. Going out with Alick Osborne. Not seeing many new plants. Going along one of the smaller aqueducts. Being pleased at seeing a tree of Bombax (specimen 149) and on it the beautiful Diamond beetle (Curculio imperialis) [Entimus imperialis]: 'it is only on this tree that this insect is to be met with'. Following the side of the water course until the end of the road. Finding no path in the wood and deciding to return the same way before sunset. Finding some fine plants of Maranta zebrina [Calathea zebrina] and Begonia agrostigma [unidentified] in the woods, neither in flower

(17 May 1822) Embarking on Grigori Langsdorff's boat with Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere, accompanying Captain William Owen on HMS Leven to study hydrography] and Alick Osborne for Porto d'Estrella [Porto da Estrela, Brazil, incorporated into Mage in 1892] between 12 and 1pm. 'The men' having to row most of the way, there being little wind. Passing the numerous islands of Governador or Governor's Island [Ilha do Governador, Brazil], Ilha da'Agua or Water Island [Ilha d'Agua, Brazil], Ilha d'Seca or Dry Island [unidentified] and others, the first the same size as St Helena [Saint Helena, British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha], the second smaller and covered with palm trees, including cocoa nuts (Cocos nucifera) [coconuts], usually not successful in the colder climate of Rio de Janeiro

Arriving at the harbour at 5pm, having enjoyed a pleasant sail and beautiful views. The entrance into the river beyond the harbour 'not very good', with only three or four feet of water and boats liable to become stuck in the mud. The river 20 to 30 yards wide and six to nine yards [crossed out and annotated in pencil: 'three to four fathoms'] deep with low banks and marshy land. Arriving at Porto da Estrela at 8pm. Langsdorff finding lodging for the night 'at the house of the principal people of the village, who treated us very kindly with coffee etc'. The bed cold with only a mat and a sheet or a thin cover: 'although I slept with all my clothes on I never suffered more in bed from cold in my life'. Getting up and walking around the room to get warm, having left his cloak and the rest of his belongings in a locked warehouse

(18 May 1822) Being ready to go for a walk to get warm at dawn. The village being composed of dwelling houses and warehouses by the river: 'it is a place of considerable business', with goods from the interior, including from the Minas [Minas Gerais, Brazil] and St Paul's [Sao Paulo, Brazil], brought on mules, being deposited in the warehouses before being sent by boats to St Sebastian. Passage by boat taking 12 hours, passage by land three days. Boats, covered with a thatch of reeds to accommodate passengers, with 10 to 15 tons of weight leaving every evening at sunset, arriving at St Sebastian the following morning. Receiving some 'very ordinary' coffee and eggs ('for which they made us pay dear enough')

Setting off with three horses for four people. Forbes and Alick Osborne choosing to walk at first to collect birds, intending to collect plants on the return journey. Later having to ride as the public road to the Minas [Minas Gerais] was covered in water, 'up to the horses' bellies', despite 'all the riches of the interior of the Brazils' being brought down that road. The country and the soil of rich loam mixed with decayed vegetable matter and occasionally sandy earth, very fine and suitable for cultivation, but not much being cultivated

Arriving at Mandioca in the afternoon, 10 miles from Porto da Estrela. Having refreshments. Visiting the woods and lands of Grigori Langsdorff. The house being finely situated at the foot of the Organ Mountains [Serra dos Orgaos, Brazil], overlooking a richly wooded and beautiful country. [Crossed out in pencil: 'The soil is a rich loam, well-watered, capable of growing almost anything']. Plantations including coffee, indigo, lemons, rice and several species of Phaseolus [here the journal includes a list of 5 more plants]: 'the negroes are fed a great deal on these and carne seca or jerked beef, that is, beef with most of the bones taken out, salted, and dried in the sun'. Langsdorff having 'formed a little colony here of Europeans he has brought out'

[annotated: 'from Germany. Of these colonists Mr Langsdorff brought about two hundred, but his terms of agreement were loose and much too hard on his people. They therefore evaded his service almost immediately on their arrival, so that he has not perhaps at this time more than fifty attached to him. This Mr Langsdorff is, it appears, a pensioner of Russia, & is the same naturalist landed at St Peter & St Paul of Kamskatchka from La Perouse's ship [Jean-Francois de Galaup de Laperouse, was a French naval officer and explorer, who travelled around the world in 1785-1788. Barthelemy de Lesseps, a Russian interpreter, left the expedition in Kamchatka in 1787 to deliver reports to St Petersburg [Russia]; the rest of the expedition subsequently vanished in 1788 after visiting Australia. Langsdorff did not take part in this expedition, although he did join another expedition with Nikolai Petrovich Rezanov, leading the first Russian circumnavigation, 1803-1806]']

Finding several new plants. Osborne and Charles Lechmere shooting birds, some with beautiful plumage, including 'Loxia mexicana?' [unidentified], Crotophaga ani (specimen 24) and a species of Psittacus. Spending the evening skinning the birds

(19 May 1822) Going into the wood in the morning. Finding a species of Begonia and several other curious plants. Returning along a public road over the mountains, making excursions into the wood. Going along a brook and finding several curious plants and seeds, including the 'singular' Marcgravia umbellata (specimen 99) ['umbellata' crossed out], but not in full flower. Returning to arrange the specimens. Going out with Grigori Langsdorff. Finding plants including two species of Begonia, one without a stem and with oblong, lanceolate leaves (specimens 50 and 51), a curious Oxalis (specimen 78), several curious species of ferns, a Polypodium forming a trunk 15 or 20 feet high, resembling palm trees. The scenery 'romantic and pretty' with a variety of plants. Returning with a load of plants and seeds. Spending the evening arranging them

(20 May 1822) Intending to go to the top of the hill. Planting the plants collected the previous day. Grigori Langsdorff, Charles Lechmere and Alick Osborne setting off, with Forbes following an hour behind. Knowing there were no new plants for a couple of miles, having been on the same road the day before. Reaching Langsdorff, Lechmere and Osborne after about three miles. Seeing a variety of plants. The scenery more varied and beautiful with views over the harbour of Rio de Janeiro with its islands and inlets, extending to the ocean 30 miles away

Stopping at 'one of the vindas or public houses' about four miles from Langsdorff's house. Langsdorff ordering refreshments and Forbes collecting several beautiful and curious plants, including 'Solanum bradypus?' [unidentified] (specimen 57) and ferns. Eating stewed fowl with 'a considerable portion' of garlic, served with beans and port wine, 'which is to be got at all these vindas tolerably good'. The rest of the party not wishing to walk a further two miles after lunch to see the Araucaria growing on top of the hill, and Langsdorff procuring a horse for Forbes

Seeing a 'stately' tree resembling a large Candelabrum [Candelabra] with branches growing out horizontally, about 70 feet high and 12 feet in circumference, with smaller ones in the vicinity: 'I should have been quite satisfied if I had seen nothing but this tree ['but this tree' crossed out and replaced in pencil with 'else'], but I found several other curious plants'. The rest of the party shooting while waiting for Forbes. Collecting plants on the return journey. Spending the evening arranging them and skinning the shot birds. A good road up the hill, about 16 feet wide and paved like a Roman causeway, with the largest stones in the centre. Langsdorff saying that the height of the mountain measured by a barometer was 5,000 feet and the soil excellent up to the top

(21 May 1822) Preparing to return to Rio de Janeiro after breakfast, but being delayed by rain and worrying about missing the boat. Being given horses by Grigori Langsdorff to take them through the flooded roads. Collecting specimens in the afternoon, including [annotated in a blank space: 'Heliconia humilis' [Heliconia psittacorum]] (specimen 32). Arriving at Porto da Estrela at 5pm. Finding refreshments and embarking on board a covered boat bound for St Sebastian. Arriving in the city at daybreak the following morning

(22 May 1822) Charles Lechmere and Alick Osborne taking a small boat to board the ship, while Forbes taking specimens, plants and seeds on shore to John Dickson. Boarding the ship to ascertain the sailing time from William Owen. Returning on shore to arrange the specimens and seeds. Going out to Shackery [chacara], Dickson's country house, to dine and sleep

(23 May 1822) [Entry originally sealed onto the page, removed to Enclosure 1] Botanising around John Dickson's [annotated: 'country'] house. Returning to town. Arranging specimens. Changing specimen papers. Boarding the ship to sleep

(24 May 1822) Receiving soil and planting living plants into a box. Going on shore with William Owen to collect plants on the rocks in the Boto Fogo Bay [Botafogo]. Finding several curious [annotated: 'beautiful'] plants, including two species of Epidendrum (specimens 123 and 124) and two species of Guzmania (specimens 119 and 126) [annotated: 'transferred this Guzmania to the Cape of Good Hope [South Africa]']

(25 May 1822) Bringing moss on shore to pack specimens and seeds collected at Teneriffe [Tenerife, Spain] and Cape de Verds [Cabo Verde]. Changing the paper of specimens collected at Rio [Rio de Janeiro]

(26 May 1822) Packing plants in moss to send to England. Rain all afternoon. Boarding the ship in the evening with the papers and boxes. Intending to go with Charles Lechmere and Alexander Heatherly to the other side of the harbour

(27 May 1822) Leaving the ship at dawn with Charles Lechmere to fetch Alexander Heatherly from Boto Fogo [Botafogo]. The day not looking promising, with occasional rain. Arriving at the other side of the harbour at Three Fathom Bay [Guanabara Bay, Brazil]. The ground low and sandy. Bringing provisions with them from Alexander Cunningham's house [annotated in pencil: 'at Boto Fogo'], intending to visit lakes five or six miles away, but being prevented by bad weather. The country fine and open and the land good with some marshy places, but finding very few snipes or other birds

Staying the night at 'a country vinda'. Setting off with 'two negroes to fetch up our provisions and loaded them with plants on our way'. Stopping to arrange specimens and to leave them at the landing place. Setting off at sunset. The road uphill bad and muddy. Lechmere and Heatherly anxiously waiting at the lodgings. Their room on the ground floor about nine feet long and five wide, with walls of stick and clay, the roof tiles and floor of uneven clay. The room dry, 'but by no means warm, however we spent a tolerable night'. Being annoyed by the croaking of large frogs outside. Raining most of the night

(28 May 1822) Intending to go to the lakes in the morning but rain continuing. Returning to the landing place to wait for the boat at 2pm. Collecting more plants. Charles Lechmere and Alexander Heatherly shooting birds. Rowing to Boto Fogo [Botafogo] taking three and a half hours with contrary winds. Shooting boobies (Pelecanus sula) [Sula sula] and two pintado birds (Procellaria capensis) [Cape petrel, Daption capense] while crossing. Arriving at sunset

(29 May 1822) Rain. Skinning birds and planting plants from Alexander Cunningham's garden. Walking to town in the afternoon

(30 May 1822) Going on board the Beaver, a 10-gun brig, to ask Captain Maclean [Archibald Maclean, captain of HMS Beaver] to take two boxes of specimens and plants to England. Not receiving an answer. Returning on shore to pack plants

(31 May 1822) Going on board the Beaver again, but 'they could not take my plants' [annotated: 'brig loaded with dollars']. Arranging insects in the evening







(1 Jun 1822) Packing and collecting plants

(2 Jun 1822) Packing a box of specimens and seeds. Pitching up the joints of the box to prevent moisture from getting in. Heavy rain

(3 Jun 1822) Going to the museum. The building 'one of the better situated in rather a retired part of the town, kept very clean and neat', but the collection of animals not extensive. Numerous birds, with some fine specimens but not a great variety. The specimens not arranged systematically in the glass cases. Some fine insects, in particular the order Coleoptera and Lepidoptera, arranged without a system in the glass cases 'to please the eye'. Some fine skins of snakes, a fine variety of coral specimens, and an extensive and well-arranged collection of minerals: 'they are the same collection that Werner [Abraham Gottlob Werner, geologist] once possessed, purchased by the King of Portugal [the collection was sold to the Portuguese government, and shipped to Rio de Janeiro in 1807]'. Few shells. Being treated with 'a great deal of civility by the gentlemen who have the superintendence of the museum'

(4 Jun 1822) Heavy rain preventing an excursion to the Curcuvado Mountains [Mount Corcovado] with Grigori Langsdorff. Changing specimen papers. Taking the boxes of plants and specimens on board the Lusitania in the afternoon, for Captain Langdon [William Langdon, captain of the Lusitania] to take to London. Sleeping on board HMS Leven

(5 Jun 1822) [This entry was added later by Forbes, and crossed out in pencil] Raining. Going with Grigori Langsdorff to see Father Leandro do Sacramento

(6 Jun 1822) Going to the Curcuvado Mountains [Mount Corcovado] [annotated: 'This is a beautiful mountain, rising almost perpendicularly from the basin of Boto Fogo [Botafogo] at the back of Mr Cunningham's [Alexander Cunningham] garden to a sharp peak apparently, & thickly wooded to the summit. It was so perpendicular that Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere] pitched a theodolite [a surveying instrument for measuring angles] to the overhanging summit so that his motions were all seen from the acting consul's garden, although the horizontal distance was not apparently so great as the height, or about two thousand feet']

Setting off after breakfast intending to meet with Grigori Langsdorff, having arranged to meet Lechmere on the way. Due to the Feast of Corpus Christi, 'a great gala day with the Portuguese', Lechmere coming to town in uniform to see the procession instead of going to the mountains. Waiting an hour for Langsdorff to accompany him

The road not good due to the rain. Following a stream used for washing linen: 'it is no uncommon sight to see 300 black women standing in the water pelting away the clothes on large stones'. Stopping at a 'vinda' to buy bread, cheese and wine. Collecting specimens of Lecythis coriacea [Eschweilera coriacea] (specimen 120) with yellow flowers from a tree 30 feet high, the capsules not ripe. Passing the house of Count Hogandorff [Dirk van Hogendorp, Dutch officer and secretary of war] with a commanding view. The land a good red loam. Finding a beautiful little Epidendrum (specimen 241) with scarlet blossom, growing on low, rough granite rock, the only specimen of this 'humble beauty'. Finding a 'singular new genus' (specimen 21) with elegant orange compound flowers. Seeing the ruins higher up of the houses of Langsdorff and Henry Chamberlain [annotated in pencil: 'the consul-general'], with fine views over the town and harbour

Seeing a group of fine Araucaria with a 'beautiful and imposing effect from their singular stately appearance'. Finding seeds under the trees. Langsdorff taking some of the seeds already germinated and putting them in damp moss to plant later. Taking some of the seeds to take to the Cape of Good Hope, intending to send home those not sprouted. Eating bread, cheese, wine and oranges. Langsdorff leaving his horse behind. Following a stream. Finding a beautiful Phrynium (specimen 112) with scarlet bracteas [bract], several fine species of ferns including two species of Marattia (specimens 160 and 161), a genus Forbes had not seen before, some beautiful specimens of Trichomanes (specimen 210) running up the tree trunks and 'splendid' Polypodium trees (specimen 162), 25 feet high, with trunks four and a half inches in diameter. The sun setting, being 'obliged reluctantly to return, for we had got into one of nature's botanic gardens', with romantic scenery and a great variety of plants [annotated in pencil: 'so [great] that it was quite impossible to collect specimens of the different species']. Descending the hill in the dark. Stopping at the bottom of the hill at 7pm. Arranging specimens in papers while waiting for coffee

(7 Jun 1822) Boarding the ship to enquire about sailing. William Owen giving Forbes some specimens. Arranging specimens in papers

(8 Jun 1822) Being informed of sailing the following morning. Packing up and purchasing supplies. Taking leave 'of all our kind friends'. Boarding the ship in the evening. Spending the night writing letters and arranging the cabin

(9 Jun 1822) Sailing from Rio de Janeiro at 8.30am. The vessels having to be towed due to no wind. Passing the Forts [Forte Sao Luiz e Forte do Pico, Brazil] and the Sugar Loaf Hill [Sugarloaf Mountain] at 11am. Bidding farewell to the beautiful scenery, 'pretty certain that we should not see a finer landscape, nor meet with kinder friends'. Passing the Isle of Raza [?Ilha Rasa, Brazil] at 5pm and losing the sight of the continent of America in the night [annotated: 'on this Island Raza, termed by English seamen Razor Island, but literally meaning Flat Island in contradiction to one near it called Round Island, which latter is a hemispherical rock covered with verdure. Raza is of a similar nature [...] The run of the ocean sea is so great on all the islands on this part of the coast as to make landing at most times very difficult on any of them. Lieutenant Vidal [Alexander Vidal, first lieutenant, later captain of HMS Barracouta] was on Raza a week for observations for the situation of the new lighthouse now building on it [...]'

(12 Jun 1822) Latitude 27°31'00''S, longitude 41°11'00''N. Observing the first pintado birds (Procellaria capensis) [Cape petrel, Daption capense]. Seeing a spermaceti whale [sperm whale]

(16 Jun 1822) Latitude 30°31'00''S, longitude 30°54'00''W. Seeing numerous Procellaria capensis [Daption capense] ['Procellaria capensis' crossed out and replaced with 'pintados'] and the first albatross (Diomedea exulans). The ships almost becalmed. The climate 'so cold that we were all glad to put on woollen clothes again'. Temperature 69°

(17 Jun 1822) Latitude 30°30'00''S, longitude 29°57'00''W. The ships almost becalmed. Two large whales swimming around the ship spouting water into the air. Pintados (Procellaria capensis) [Cape petrel, Daption capense] and Procellaria equinoctialis [Procellaria aequinoctialis] (specimens 1 and 3) flying around the ship. William Owen lowering a boat for Forbes, Alick Osborne and Charles Lechmere to shoot birds: 'we should have got more, but a breeze sprang up and it was necessary to get on board'

(22 Jun 1822) Latitude 33°24'00''S, longitude 29°57'00''W. Gales through the night and the following morning, 'the only unpleasant weather of this kind we had had since we left England'. The tender in tow since leaving Brazil 'obliged to be cast off in the night'

(23 Jun 1822) Wind 'somewhat abated', stopping to assist the tender [annotated: 'for a footnote / It is curious to observe the little importance attached by landsmen to the most important operation on ship board, whilst trifles in themselves in the eyes of seamen are magnified into importance. To read the botanist's journal, few would suppose that the night of the 22nd June was one of the most anxious of our whole voyage. The Cockburn was not cast off, but when going ten knots broke her tow rope, a nine-inch cable, and was the whole night and all next day in extreme danger of sinking. In the midst of our distress and anxiety, the naturalist was quietly catching birds. Yet this neither arose from indifference nor want of observation, but his pursuit was of a nature to obstruct him from other considerations']. Putting lines and hooks overboard bated with pork fat to catch the pintados [Cape petrel]. Catching two. Seeing several albatrosses and other birds, assuming them to be species of Procellaria, 'but we could not get any of them to determine'. Latitude 31°46'00''S, longitude 11°41'30''W

(30 Jun 1822) Latitude 33°51'00''S, longitude 6°30'00''E. Seeing larger numbers of birds than previously, including the white and sooty albatross (Diomedea exulans and Diomedea fuligenosa [Phoebetria fusca]) (specimens 6 and 8). Counting 12 of the immense white albatrosses and several sooty albatrosses flying near the ship. Seeing five or six species of petrels (Procellarias), in particular the enormous Procellaria capensis [Daption capense]. Flying very close to the ship: 'this does not appear to arise from any confidence they have in man, but from their utter unacquaintance with the danger they put themselves in, by trusting to their worst enemy'. Describing seeing the birds shot at, yet not moving, but sitting quietly in the water, 'looking about them with [annotated: 'stupid'] astonishment'. Seeing the snowy petrel (Procellaria nivea) [Pagodroma nivea] (specimen 5) and other species. The ship sailing too fast to shoot any, although William Owen offering to lower a boat to pick up any that were shot

The previous evening whilst at dinner, having the glass of his cabin window broken by the sea and the cabin filled with water [annotated: 'It is true the captain had repeatedly cautioned me on this subject but experience is absolutely necessary to teach wisdom']. During the night a goat brought from the Isle of Sal [Cabo Verde] dying and the carcass thrown overboard, with albatrosses and petrels hovering over and pecking it [annotated: 'this furnished us with an observation of which we afterwards took advantage']

Seeing two or three kinds of Diomedea, but being unsure whether they were distinct species, different sexes, young birds or varieties. Seeing mostly white albatrosses with dark brown wings, some considerably smaller and all brown apart from the belly, and others differently marked. Refuse thrown overboard seized by the pintados [Cape petrel], flocking around it 'like domestic fowls round a barn door'. The albatrosses flying amongst the smaller birds, dispatching them. Observing the albatrosses sitting on the water with their wings extended and the albatrosses and petrels striking the water with their feet, rising to flight. The birds more numerous and flying closer to the ship in stormy or squally weather. Seeing birds occasionally in moonlight: 'I conceive their being seen at night is only occasioned by vessels that disturb them as they float or roost on the water' [annotated: 'yet it is certain that the same birds will follow even from the vicinity of Rio [Rio de Janeiro] to Mauritius, a voyage of about two thousand, three thousand sea leagues. This I have on the authority of the captain']

(2 Jul 1822) The ships almost becalmed. Numerous birds, including petrels and albatrosses. William Owen 'very obligingly' ordering a boat to be lowered for shooting them [annotated: 'we this day tried an experiment & threw a bundle of dirty straw overboard round which all the birds immediately gathered. Captain Owen']. Charles Lechmere and Alick Osborne shooting two large albatrosses (Diomedea exulans), five sooty albatrosses (Diomedea fuliginosa) [Phoebetria fusca] and one petrel (Procellaria equinoctialis) [Procellaria aequinoctialis] (specimen 3). Those remaining on board disappointed, being ready to shoot the birds from the ship, but the birds being attracted by the boat did not approach the ship. The large albatrosses having a wingspan of nine feet, and measuring three feet 5 1/2 inches in length and the sooty albatrosses having a wingspan of six feet six inches, and measuring two feet 6 1/2 inches in length. Correcting Linne's [Carl Linnaeus, Swedish botanist and zoologist] descriptions of the genus Diomedea: having three toes instead of four and Diomedea fuliginosa [Phoebetria fusca] having a previously unmentioned white cartilagenous line along the lower mandible. That species only observed at this latitude, a few degrees west of Greenwich and about six or seven degrees east, where they were more numerous than the white ones

Cooking and eating the flesh from the thigh of the large albatross: 'Captain Owen [William Owen] had some fresh English mutton at the table the same day, and by some the flesh of the albatross was preferred, together they eat very well', being cooked like a mutton chop, having been steeped in salt and water, the tendons taken out and the meat 'made fully hot' with pepper, with no fishy taste: 'those who had conceived a dislike for the flesh from the rancid fishy smell of the bird [annotated: 'and the immense quantity of pure tran oil they disgorged when brought on board'] did not dislike it when dressed in this manner', despite the 'quart of thick rancid oil' which emerged from the stomach of the birds brought on board. Latitude 34°00'15''S, longitude 12°27'00''E

(3 Jul 1822) Latitude 33°36'00''S, longitude 13°11'50''E. Seeing numerous birds. One shot from the stern. Being given a boat by William Owen ('very obligingly' crossed out) to pick it up with Charles Lechmere and Alick Osborne. Shooting five more birds, a sooty albatross and procellarias. Seeing one Procellaria pelagica [Hydrobates pelagicus], the only one seen south of Rio de Janeiro

(5 Jul 1822) Latitude 33°36'43''S, longitude 14°31'00''E. The ships becalmed. Seeing fewer kinds of birds than previously. Alick Osborne shooting at a large albatross in the water but only injuring it. Chasing the injured swimming bird by boat: 'we did not wish to fire a second shot at him for fear of injuring the skin too much'. Catching the bird: 'this was much the finest bird procured', with a wingspan of 11 feet, weighing 18lbs. At 10.30pm sending a boat to test the current. Temperature of the water at 90 fathoms and the surface 58°. Temperature of air 62°

(7 Jul 1822) Coming in sight of land in the morning [annotated: 'Blowing fresh from the NW [north-west] with drizzling rain']. Entering False Bay [South Africa] at 4pm [annotated: 'into which we worked until midnight']. Anchoring in the bay [crossed out and annotated: 'off Muisenberg [Muizenberg, Cape Town, South Africa]'] overnight: 'the captain conceived it more prudent to do so than run ['run' crossed out and replaced with 'work'] into Simon's Bay [South Africa] in the dark' [annotated: 'to enable ships to do [this] with safety, a light house is much wanted']

(8 Jul 1822) Anchoring at Simon's Bay: 'there is nothing particularly beautiful or interesting in the scenery hereabouts', the hills [annotated: 'though high and sublime'] being barren with little vegetation or trees [annotated: '[the bay] was, when we anchored, absolutely swarming with thousands of the shag and numerous gulls of various species, as well as the penguin, new to us all']. Going on shore. The whitewashed houses and stores of Simon's Town [South Africa] neat and clean, with flat roofs: 'the Dutch, in any part of the colony I have seen, keep their dwellings very clean, very different to the slovenly Portuguese'. The town little more than a single row of houses at the foot of the hills. HMS Barracouta having arrived three days earlier, and HMS Andromache, HMS Hyperion, HMS Heron and some merchant ships in the bay

(9 Jul 1822) Arranging belongings on board to take on shore. A gale blowing in the night. Ships in the bay having to lower top masts and lower yards. Several men going on shore in Table Bay [South Africa]. Noting that sailing into Table Bay was dangerous in the winter season from May to September due to north-westerly winds blowing directly into the bay: 'it would certainly be to the interest of insurance companies and merchants if they were obliged to go into Simon's Bay as all Men of War are'. Eight vessels having been 'lost or otherwise injured' that year, and ships frequently unable to get into either of the bays due to storms: 'vessels are often beating off the Cape [Cape of Good Hope] for months', HMS Cygnet having taken 13 days to sail from Table Bay to Simon's Bay, suffering considerable damage

(10 Jul 1822) Going on a short excursion on the hill above Simon's Town with William Owen, William Cutfield and Charles Lechmere. Collecting about 30 species of plants

(11 Jul 1822) Stormy weather with snow, sleet and rain. Unable to go to Cape Town. Writing letters to England

(12 Jul 1822) Leaving Simon's Town in a wagon drawn by eight horses, driven by a man seated at the front holding a 26 feet whip with a bamboo handle [annotated: 'nine to ten feet long']. For the first eight or ten miles the road poor and the landscape uninteresting. The road running along the beach, the ugly coast with heavy surf to the right, and barren hills to the left with sand blowing about in dry weather. Passing alongside a lake or salt marsh with numerous aquatic birds, including wild ducks, coots and flamingos, 'most of them very difficult to be got at'. Passing over a plain for five or six miles, the road improving. Seeing many familiar plants. The wagon stopping at the Half Way House [?Wynberg Inn], 'for the horses to bait and the passengers to refresh'. Ascending the hill and passing the neat village of Wynberg or Winberg [Wynberg, South Africa]. Constantia [Cape Town] seen at the foot of the Table Mountain [South Africa], covered in snow ('a rare occurrence')

The country more fertile and beautiful. Newlands to the left of the road, the seat of the governor, Lord Charles Somerset [Charles Henry Somerset, governor of the Cape Colony, South Africa]. The road passing through rows of oaks and firs. Seeing on the hills a silver tree (Leucadendron argenteum), 'gracefully bending to the breeze', a species of Protea Forbes had not seen anywhere south of the Table Mountain, nor in Hottentot Holland [Hottentots Holland Mountains, South Africa], east of False Bay. The road passing along the foot of the Devils Bergh or Devils Mount [Devil's Peak, South Africa], with a view of the Lion's Rump [Lion's Head, South Africa] and Table Bay. The Lion's Rump differing from the other hills nearby in being green, with an even surface on the top, the other hills being 'very common and rocky'. Cape Town appearing neat with whitewashed and regular houses. Fine views over the bay, the town and the mountains

Arriving at Cape Town at 4pm, too late to deliver letters to Charles Henry Somerset who had returned to Newlands. Another correspondent, Mr Rivers [Henry Rivers, colonial officer in South Africa], residing about 600 miles away in the Albany district [South Africa]

(13 Jul 1822) Delivering letters to Mr Villet [Charles Mathurin Villet, naturalist and zoological merchant in South Africa] and Dr Philip [?John Philip, missionary in South Africa]. Villet's collection on natural history not very extensive, 'he having parted with a great collection a short time before, amongst which was a living elephant and a skin of a hippopotamus' [the collection having been sold to the Egyptian Hall in Piccadilly, London]. Going to Villet's garden at Green Point [Cape Town] at the foot of the Lion's Rump [Lion's Head]. The ground a sandy loam with stones. The garden including many plants, 'especially Cape bulbs', and animal enclosures, with a couple of 'fine' four-year old lions, a 'fine' female zebra and several monkeys

(14 Jul 1822) Breakfasting with Mr Reitz [Jan Frederik Reitz, officer in the Dutch navy and farmer in South Africa], father of the first ['first' crossed out and replaced with 'Junior'] lieutenant on HMS Barracouta [Jacobus Johannes Reitz or John James Reitz, who was in fact third lieutenant on HMS Barracouta], who had broken his thigh at the Isle of Sal shooting eagles: 'a large stone on which he stood gave way and rolled upon him'. Walking to the Reitz cottage at the foot of ['at the foot of' crossed out and replaced with 'the highest up on the side of'] the Table Mountain. A fine view over the bay and the town. Seeing many beautiful plants but not being able to collect them, having no paper or other collecting equipment. Seeing a covered spring below the cottage, supplying 'very excellent water' conveyed in iron pipes to the town. Passing through a public garden belonging to the government. Seeing few plants apart from some fruit trees. Seeing in the menagerie a couple of lions, a fine Bengal tiger, two secretary birds and some other animals

(15 Jul 1822) Breakfasting with John Philip. Seeing his minerals, 'collected by himself on difficult journeys in South of Africa', including curious agates, and a well-preserved plant collection: 'this gentleman has very good knowledge of natural history in general'

Leaving Cape Town in the afternoon. Calling at Newlands to deliver a letter to Charles Henry Somerset and being treated with great politeness. The neighbourhood of Newlands resembling England, with oaks and firs, but also silver trees and a variety of plants not found in England. A fine day. Arriving at Simon's Bay at 7pm

(16 Jul 1822) Boarding the ship. Arranging plants collected by William Owen in Cape Town

(17 Jul 1822) Walking up the glen towards the waterfall west of Simon's Bay. Collecting a number of curious plants, in particular ferns (specimens 32-40)

(18 Jul 1822) Setting off with Alick Osborne intending to go to the lakes at Nardhook [Noordhoek, South Africa] to shoot flamingos. Leaving too late, 'however we killed several other curious and beautiful birds', including four species of Certhia (specimens 10-15), feeding on the nectar of different species of Proteaceae and other flowers: 'the note of these birds is very sweet and pretty'. The land mostly barren but with a great variety of plants, and the soil sandy. Killing a non-venomous Coluber snake six feet and six inches long

(19 Jul 1822) Going out with Mr Mudge [William Mudge, first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta]. Shooting several more Certhia birds on the hill west of Simon's Town. Attempting to find aquatic birds to shoot on marshy ground. Finding a number of beautiful plants, including Protea and 'an endless variety of other plants' not in flower

(20 Jul 1822) A gale blowing with squalls from the north-east. Remaining at the observatory skinning birds. Several ships blown on shore in Table Bay. William Owen returning from Cape Town. Boarding the ship at sunset

(21 Jul 1822) Pouring rain. Skinning birds at the observatory. Several houses collapsing due to the rain, the houses being flat-roofed because of strong winds 'that would blow them down if they were roofed in the English manner'. The lime used for building houses not very good, being made from sea shells, the bricks with too much sandy gravel in them and 'not sufficiently baked in general, that they soon become, as it were, cotton'

(22 Jul 1822) Stormy weather. Boarding the ship to arrange specimens collected by William Owen. Going on shore to finish skinning birds

(23 Jul 1822) Arranging specimens collected in Rio de Janeiro. Procuring two flamingo skins (Phoenicopterus ruber)

(24 Jul 1822) Rain all day. Several houses partly collapsing. Skinning the two flamingos: 'rather troublesome to skin about the neck and head. The slaves that catch these birds generally pull out the fine scarlet feathers from under the wings to stick in their caps, which certainly adds very much to their former beauty'

(25 Jul 1822) Skinning more birds. Arranging specimens from Rio de Janeiro. Going to the commissioner's [Joseph Nourse, commander-in-chief of the Cape of Good Hope Station] garden with William Owen. The garden 'almost in a state of nature' due to neglect and bad weather. Collecting specimens. Stormy weather

(26 Jul 1822) Collecting specimens around Simon's Town. Shooting birds in the commissioner's garden

(27 Jul 1822) Arranging birds shot during the sea journey and in the Cape [Cape of Good Hope] for sending home by the ship Spike. Having to defer sending them after finding the large albatross skin was not sufficiently dry

(28 Jul 1822) Boarding the ship. Examining and arranging plant specimens with William Owen, collected by him. Going on shore in the morning. Observing a beautiful occultation of Antares by the moon with Alexander Vidal and William Mudge: 'this eclipse was instantaneous to each observer both in its immersion and reappearance'

(29 Jul 1822) Out shooting. Killing a Cape woodpecker, a shy bird with a harsh and unpleasant sound, living in rocky places. Killing several other birds not shot before. Collecting several plants

(30 Jul 1822) Going to the lakes at Nardhook [Noordhoek] to shoot flamingos and aquatic birds. Not seeing any flamingos. The only birds being wild ducks, keeping their distance. Shooting 'scarcely anything else'. Walking about 30 miles without food. Stopping at houses along the way, but 'they could not give us as much as a crust of bread. Such is the distressed state of this colony at this time, owing to the crops having failed the two last seasons and no money to buy with'. The soil sandy and little cultivated. A great variety of plants but most already well known in England

(31 Jul 1822) Skinning birds shot the previous day. Very stormy weather

(1 Aug 1822) Skinning more birds. William Mudge boarding HMS Barracouta with his instruments, preparing to sail to Algoa Bay [South Africa] the following day. Preparing to join a surveying party under Alexander Vidal at 'the extreme point' [Cape Point, South Africa]. Two boats leaving but having to return, not being able to land due to heavy surf and the rocky coast

(2 Aug 1822) Alexander Vidal coming on shore to take a Malay fisherman familiar with the coast as a pilot. Forbes missing the boats, sailing from the ship whilst Forbes preparing for the journey at the observatory. Leaving Simon's Town at 10.30am with one of the men from the ship and a horse to carry baggage to follow the surveying party

Going up the Red Path [Red Hill Road, South Africa] and passing Oliphant's Bosh or Elephant's Bush [Olifantsbos, South Africa], two or three houses on the western coast of the peninsula, 'a considerable distance on our right'. Heading south towards the extreme point. Crossing plains covered with water, the road from Simon's Town offering little variation. Seeing a great variety of plants, including ones not seen before. Collecting specimens, walking ahead of the man and the horse.

Arriving at Mr Osmond's [John Osmond, carpenter, landlord and slave holder in South Africa] farm [Buffelsfontein Farm, South Africa] near their destination at 4pm. Finding the boats on the beach in Buffels Bay [Buffelsbaai, South Africa], 'at a place made and used by the fishermen for the same purpose'. Vidal and the rest of the party having gone with their tents to the extreme point four miles further on, 'being the station fixed on by him for taking his angles of observation'. Staying at the farm for the night. Being treated with great civility and hospitality by Mr Devos [?Wouter de Vos, tenant of John Osmond]. Skinning two birds shot earlier. Placing collected specimens in paper. Seeing the party in the distance making a fire and pitching their tents on the peak at sunset

(3 Aug 1822) Setting out in the morning towards the tents. Arriving one and a half hours later. The view from the top of the hill 'very extensive and interesting, when we consider it the most southern point of Africa' [annotated: 'consider this was the point whose discovery changed the destinies of more than one half if not of the whole world']. Alexander Vidal 'fixed the situation' [annotated: latitude 34°21, longitude 18°24'E]. Seeing many seabirds, including Plotus [Anhinga], pelicans and gulls (Larus): 'harsh unpleasant cries mingled with the roaring surf adds gloom to the melancholy scene'. Baboons (Simia silvanus) [macaque, Macaca sylvanus] on a nearby hill screaming continuously and watching from the highest rocks, hiding among them from anyone approaching. Observing that the baboons are sometimes caught on the plains, but if pursued by a dog they will attack the dog 'in a shocking manner', leading to few dogs attempting to chase them. Seeing bucks, possibly steanbock (antelope) [steenbok]. Not seeing wolves (Canis lupus), jackals (Canis aureus) or wild cats (Viverra civetta) [Viverra civettina]. Collecting several plants, 'none I believe peculiar to this neighbourhood'

(4 Aug 1822) Collecting 'all the plants I could find' near the point and arranging them. Collecting marine plants and shells on the beach. Seeing immense Fucus [algae], with stalks up to 20 feet ('trumpets are made of the stalks of this plant'), and an abundance of 'excellent' sponges washed up on the beach. Going to the house of Mr de Vos [?Wouter de Vos], 'Mr Osmond's [John Osmond] tenant'. Placing specimens in paper. Digging up various bulbs. Shooting two or three birds 'that I had not before'. The land from the farm to the point comprising healthy soil or sand with a great variety of plants. De Vos collecting shells on the beach, making them into lime, 'the only sort of lime they have in this part of the colony, there is no limestone'. Being amused by a flock of gannets (Pelicanus bassanus) [Morus bassanus] of some thousand flying over a shoal of fish, darting down to the water with wings closed, 'like an arrow shot from a bow'

Alexander Vidal and the rest of the party measuring angles during the day and making astronomical observations at night. Heavy dew at night 'a great inconvenience' to them: 'the glass of the artificial horizon [attitude indicator] was continually covered', preventing accurate observations

(5 Aug 1822) Digging up Haemanthus bulbs. Collecting specimens. Alexander Vidal dismantling the tents after getting the meridian altitude, coming with the baggage to the boats in Buffels Bay [Buffelsbaai]. The boats sent off at sunset. Vidal remaining behind to fix other stations the following day

(6-7 Aug 1822) Leaving the house of Mr de Vos [?Wouter de Vos] with Alexander Vidal in the morning. Climbing to the top of Paula's Bergh Hill [Paulsberg, South Africa], north-east of John Osmond's farm. Finding an orchideous plant (specimen 95, 'elegant and curious'). Vidal measuring angles and wishing to proceed to another hill but not finding it good for observations. Forbes parting ways with Vidal to go towards a house 'occupied by an Englishman of the name of Cowdry' [?Robert Cowdrey, English settler in South Africa] at the foot of Swartcoup Mountain [Swartkop Mountain, South Africa]. Collecting plants during the rough cross-country walk. Arriving at the house at 4pm

A little later seeing Vidal and 'one of the young gentlemen that went away in the boats last night' approaching. Worrying about what had happened to the boat and the crew, but finding that the boats had not been able to anchor at Simon's Bay and had to anchor at a smaller bay called Smith's Winkle Bay [Smitswinkel Bay, South Africa] instead, the crew pitching their tent on the beach to wait for the wind to change or abate. Seeing from the top of the hill the breakers along the west coast of the peninsula 'rolling most hideously', not laid down in any charts and dangerous for ships going round the Cape: 'Mr Vidal set them with the theodolite [a surveying instrument with a rotating telescope for measuring angles]'

Spending the night at Cowdrey's, who, 'although an Englishman, had fallen into the Dutch custom of drinking coffee without milk for two or three hours in the morning' followed by a late breakfast: he 'was going to serve us in the same way, but we thought it more prudent to take something as a breakfast before we ascended the hill'

Leaving the house at 8am and arriving at the summit at 9.30am. The hill one of the highest in the area, estimating the height at 2,000 feet without a barometer, descending almost perpendicular to the sea. The east side covered with plants to the top. The north-west side with a gentle descent, allowing bullock wagons to reach almost to the summit to take down charcoal. The charcoal made by burning the heath in the dry season, leaving the roots of shrubs in the ground, digging them up after a year or more and cleaning and drying them 'in the same manner as charcoal is manufactured in England'. The roots of [annotated: 'a Protea'] best for charcoal, fetching a higher price, used for burning in stoves for heating rooms and for irons used to iron linen. A wagon load of 16 oxen selling for 90 or 100 rixdollars in Cape Town: 'if a man works well, he will prepare a load of it in a month'. Vidal making observations and Forbes collecting plants

Descending the hill north-west towards another station near the coast. The rocks on the hill 'more detached than we had seen on any of the other hills'. Finding orchella (lichen), 'longer and more luxurious' than the lichen in the Canary Islands [Spain] and Cabo Verde. The rocks on the hills sloping towards the north-west, with 'a considerable portion of iron' in the soil. The mountains on the west side of False Bay sloping to a plain before reaching the sea. Collecting specimens. Returning to Simon's Town after sunset

(8 Aug 1822) Boarding HMS Leven in the morning. Arranging specimens collected by William Owen. Returning to the observatory in the afternoon. Skinning birds



(9 Aug 1822) Making an excursion over the hill with Mr Browne [Charles William Browne, lieutenant on HMS Leven]. Finding only one new plant (specimen 58). Returning at 10am to arrange and number specimens

(10 Aug 1822) Visiting Commodore Norse's [Joseph Nourse] and John Osmond's gardens. Skinning birds shot the previous day. Changing specimen papers

(11 Aug 1822) Collecting about 20 species of new plants around Simon's Town, the fine sunny weather having brought out many plants. Walking with a party to a waterfall above the town. Collecting specimens, including a delicate Hymenophyllum growing on a damp rock. Boarding HMS Leven in the afternoon. Arranging to go with Alexander Vidal to Gordon's Bay [South Africa] the following morning [annotated: 'see the plan of the Cape of Good Hope, see Lieutenant Vidal's journal']

(12 Aug 1822) Leaving Simon's Bay in the morning with Alexander Vidal, Gibbon [Henry Gibbons, lieutenant on HMS Leven], Rogier [Edward Rogier, midshipman on HMS Leven] 'and two of the young gentlemen' in a small sloop and two boats. A 'delightfully fine' morning and a pleasant passage across the bay. Catching many silverfish [sea bream]: 'tolerable good eating, but not equal to several other kinds that are caught in this bay'. Vidal 'sounding' [measuring the depth of water] and taking angles to determine his position at the time of different soundings. Encountering two whaling boats and receiving information about anchoring the sloop and landing the boats. 'This establishment belongs to Mr Gosling [?James Gosling], the proprietor of most of the land in the immediate neighbourhood [annotated: 'of Gordon's Bay']'.

Anchoring at 2.30pm. Dining on board. Going on shore to pitch the tents: 'while this was doing, I took a stroll round the place'. The land 'much stronger and better than that on the opposite side'. Seeing a number of beautiful new plants: 'must not omit one which for beauty, elegance and singularity nothing could excel it, was the Drosera capensis' (specimen 153), with a six-inch high stem covered with leaves, 'elegantly beset' hair-like glands supporting a single pink flower with five stamens and five crowned pistils outside the anther. Seeing many other beautiful bulbous plants. Seeing many birds not seen on the opposite coast. Sleeping in the tents

(13 Aug 1822) Alexander Vidal going out with the two boats to Cape Hangclip [Cape Hangklip, South Africa] to survey and make sketches of the coast, but being unsuccessful due to a strong south-westerly wind. Vidal discovering a small river, the Stean Brass [Steenbras River, South Africa] [annotated: 'note this river is not marked by name in the plan of Captain Vidal'], not included in charts, going up 500-600 yards. The coast appearing 'impracticable' for landing boats, an opinion confirmed by the fishermen at Gordon's Bay. Henry Gibbons taking observations

Forbes visiting several farm houses and to the village of Somerset [Somerset West, South Africa] to procure fresh provisions. Finding vegetables difficult to obtain, the cold weather having destroyed the crops. Having walked about five miles, noting that the land was better quality than on the other side, and 'very capable of being made productive, if well drained & clothed with a different herbage'. Extensive farms. Wine cultivation, barning and feeding cattle the chief occupations of the Dutch farmers. Seeing many beautiful new plants (specimens 127-129 and 132) but being unable to stop to collect them, 'for the gentlemen at the tent were waiting breakfast until my return'

Collecting plants after breakfast. Shooting birds. Going to the beach and the rocks in the evening to shoot sea fowl but not succeeding: 'whether these birds go on the water to sleep or to some more inaccessible rocks we were not able to determine'. Rain in the night. Having to leave the tents and stay at the house of Mr Gosling's 'harpooner' [whaler], 'who kindly gave us every accommodation at his command'

(14 Aug 1822) The weather more unfavourable. In order to fire rockets at Simon's Bay in the evening, to measure the difference of longitude, Alexander Vidal measuring angles and sketching the coast instead of going out with the boats. Vidal observing that the river was impossible to enter at certain times and that boats were unable to travel far up the river due to the heavy surf. The land rocky and barren. Henry Gibbons making observations on the north-east [crossed out and replaced with 'NW [north-west]'] coast, seeing little variety and scarcely a place for landing a boat, with reefs and sand shoals running a long way out with breakers

Collecting new specimens. Digging up bulbs of Ixia, Gladiolus and Haemanthus. Seeing two secretary birds and fetching guns in order to shoot them. Not succeeding in shooting the birds, who were able to see the hunters from a distance on the plains: 'it is only by taking them by surprise that they are to be procured'. Being informed it was illegal to shoot the birds, as they were considered valuable in destroying snakes and other 'noxious' reptiles: 'they kill the snakes by striking them with the soles of their feet'. Shooting a bock-be-carey [bokmakierie] for the first time, although the birds were common. Two boats sent to kill a whale in the bay, harpooning a female whale and a young whale, but due to squalls and rough sea having to let them go. 'They have not procured one this season at this fishery. The loss to the owner will be very considerable [annotated: 'having to constant [constantly] pay'] about 20 men for three months and other expenses'

Seeing rockets fired in the evening from Simon's Bay 24 miles away: 'by these observations the difference of longitude of the two places will be ['will be' crossed out and replaced with 'was'] exactly determined' [annotated: '26.25 minutes of a degree or 1min 45s in time, and this I was informed differed but sixty fathoms in the entire distance from that measured by difference of latitude between the Devil's Peak and the Cape Peak [South Africa]'

(15 Aug 1822) Going to Mr Gosling's [?James Gosling] farm. Shooting birds (specimens 31, 32 and 36). Collecting plants. Alexander Vidal going out with two boats to Cape Hangclip [Cape Hangklip]. Collecting specimens. Digging up Ixia and Gladiolus

Seeing vines cultivated, planted in rows forming squares of about four feet. After planting, being pruned and in the winter, soil being laid in the rows to facilitate the vines benefiting from rain. The plants being cut and left without being trellised like they were in Madeira [Portugal] and Teneriffe [Tenerife]. This method giving the wines from the Cape of Good Hope an earthy flavour, with wine from Madeira and Tenerife having 'such a superior flavour'. Vidal returning to the sloop in the evening

(16 Aug 1822) Observing from the shore three boats with Alexander Vidal leaving the sloop towards Cape Hangclip [Cape Hangklip]. A fine morning. Collecting plants on top of the hill accompanied by a man. Collecting fragments of rocks [crossed out: at the foot of the hill and in the bay ('certainly worthy of notice'), with sharp, pointed, blue rocks forming the upper strata, mixed with iron, in particular in the loose stones on the surface]. The soil 'of a very indifferent kind', apart from 'some vegetable mould that might be turned to good account' beside small streams. Most of the streams drying up during the summer, otherwise they would be better for planting vines than the sand usually used. Collecting bulbs. Adding over 20 plants to the herbarium. Views from the top of the hill extensive 'but not very grateful to the eye', being harsh and barren, with the variety of plants not apparent: 'a person taking a view from one of these heights would not for a moment suppose there was such an endless variety of plants. A botanist who knew nothing of the Cape plants would be very greatly disappointed in walking over a few miles of this land after having viewed it from the top of one of these hills'. The temperature in the tent in the morning 42° and at noon 76°. The temperature outside the tent in the shade 62°. Mean temperature about 68°, with a difference of 26°. The boats returning to the sloop in the evening but not communicating with the party on the shore

(17 Aug 1822) Skinning birds. Shooting birds not seen before (specimens 27-29). Collecting specimens and bulbs. The wrong season for seeds. Alexander Vidal going towards Cape Hangclip [Cape Hangklip] to finish his observations, having left his spy glass [monocular telescope] on shore the previous day. Landing boats dangerous on the coast, with Vidal having difficulties in landing in the same place as the previous day due to the surf. The boat flooding and the party losing their provisions. Managing to save themselves and the boat. Hauling the boat up from the water. Having to walk 14 or 15 miles to Gordon's Bay, along a 'very indifferent road ['indifferent' crossed out and replaced with 'with no beaten']', fatigued, without anything to eat and their clothes 'of course dripping wet'. Stopping half-way to make a fire [annotated: 'for the night was frosty'] and spending the night sleeping beside it



(18 Aug 1822) Being worried in the morning, having not heard anything from the boat. Another boat going to search for the boat, finding Alexander Vidal and the rest of the party on the beach and taking them back to the sloop. The party being exhausted, having not had anything to eat [annotated: 'or drink'] for 28 hours. Having collected most of the plants in the area and wishing to defer collecting until the last opportunity, their departure being delayed for two more days due to Vidal having to retrieve the swamped boat. Skinning birds

(19 Aug 1822) Alexander Vidal leaving early in the morning on a boat to retrieve the boat left behind. Vidal finding the boat safe, 'although it was more than was to have been expected, for there are [annotated: 'said to be'] a number of runaway slaves down about this point, that frequently commit depredations of thievery on the farmers in the neighbourhood'. Vidal succeeding in saving the boat and the items in it, his own pocket watch having suffered most damage by the salt water [annotated: 'spoiled it completely']. Vidal returning in the afternoon. Forbes digging up bulbs and preparing for the journey the following day. Sending some baggage on board the sloop. The ground covered with frost in the morning before sunrise. The temperature 36° in the tent, 80° at noon

(20 Aug 1822) Sailing from Gordon's Bay at 10.30am, having been delayed by having to look for 'one of the men [annotated: 'William Smith'] that had taken one of the boats from the sloop & landed & run away early in the morning' [annotated: 'Smith, who was the coxswain of Mr Vidal's [Alexander Vidal] boat, was afterwards apprehended & acknowledged that fear of encountering any more such adventures, involving the double chance of drowning or starving, was the only cause that induced him to desert. It need not be remarked that although an excellent seaman and otherwise a very trusty man, he was ignominiously degraded to one of the lowest stations in the vessel & to dirty work for such an unworthy example of rank cowardice, so unusual in British seamen']. Anchoring at Simon's Bay at 5.30pm. Going on board HMS Leven

(21 Aug 1822) Transferring baggage and collections on shore to the observatory

(22 Aug 1822) Organising and changing specimen papers

(23 Aug 1822) Changing specimen papers. Going with William Owen along the coast south of Simon's Town. Collecting specimens, including roots of Drosera lachnalia [unidentified] and Orchis (specimen 213)

(24 Aug 1822) William Owen 'favoured me with two men' for digging up roots. Going up the hill south-west of Simon's Town. The top of the hill flat, the land covered with water in the winter, but dry in the summer, the soil a heathy mould with sand. Finding several plants in bloom since Forbes' last visit. Collecting samples and roots of Orchideae and other bulbs. Returning by a ravine with a 90-foot waterfall. Digging up roots of ferns (specimens 32-39) and other plants west of Simon's Town: 'this is the only place near here where the scenery is romantic or pretty'. The waterfall drying in the summer. Finding a 'delicate' Hymnophylla (specimen 124) [Hymenophyllum] on a damp rock in the glen, some Sphagnum and other mosses. Using the moss for packing Orchis: 'more of it would have been very acceptable'

(25 Aug 1822) Changing papers of specimens collected in Gordon's Bay and arranging and numbering specimens collected the previous day. Preparing for a journey to Wineberg [Wynberg, Cape Town] and Constantia [Cape Town] the following morning

(26 Aug 1822) Leaving Simon's Town in a wagon of eight [oxen] and two drivers: 'one to manage the oxen, another the whip'. Seeing several plants in blossom after Musenberg Point [Muizenberg, Cape Town], about seven miles from Simon's Town on the road to Cape Town. The country much drier and the roads better than previously. Arriving at George's Halfway House [?Wynberg Inn] at 12.30pm. Staying for a few days in order to collect specimens and roots. Collecting specimens and roots of Orchideae in the afternoon

(27 Aug 1822) Following a stream running from the Halfway House towards Table Mountain, accompanied by two men sent by William Owen: 'the scenery is very pretty and the land superior to any I have seen in any part of the colony I have been in'. Going towards the west for about two miles, then turning south towards Constantia, 'so celebrated for its peculiar fine wine'. The wine only cultivated by two people, with attempts to cultivate it elsewhere failing, including in the surrounding areas: 'whether it is the soil or situation or both, I believe is at present unsatisfactorily accounted for, but such is the fact'. The soil a 'sharp light loam', the vines seemingly treated in a similar manner to other parts of South Africa or Portugal. Being astonished to see 'so much fine land in this neighbourhood producing nothing but what nature sends ['producing nothing...' crossed out and replaced with 'entirely uncultivated, but naturally producing'] (which by the by is an abundance of beautiful plants)', while the sandy plains were turned into vineyards and gardens

Collecting several plants, including 'the beautiful' Borbonia lanceolata [Aspalathus angustifolia] (specimen 261). The silver tree [annotated in ink: 'Leucadendron argenteum'] thriving: 'by its singular appearance [it] adds greatly to the beauty of the landscape', with no other Proteaceae growing as rapidly or as tall

(28 Aug 1822) Following a brook ('or what is here called the deep river') towards the south-east to fresh water lakes three or four miles from the Halfway House [?Wynberg Inn]. The lakes originally formed by strong south-east winds, prevalent in the summer, blowing dry sand into constantly increasing hill formations and damming up small rivers to form lakes. Finding few plants, but collecting some 'particularly interesting orchideous plants' (specimens 213, 272 and 273): 'also abundance of 209, this magnificent plant makes no small figure on these plains'

(29 Aug 1822) Packing the roots of the orchids and sending them by the two men to Simon's Town: 'the four days for which they had provisions expired this day'. Walking 'over a considerable portion of marshy land' without finding anything new. Skinning birds shot the previous day. Waiting for boxes from Simon's Town for planting loquats for William Owen to take to Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay, Mozambique]

(30 Aug 1822) Going to Cape Town. Visiting Mr van Remens [Dirk Gysbert van Reenen], who had the loquat plants in a place called the Brewery, close to Newlands at the foot of Table Mountain. Many trees growing in the area, loquat (Mespilus japonicus) [Eriobotrya japonica] having been introduced to South Africa about 14 or 15 years previously, and being 'quite in a state of nature', growing into large bushes and producing fine fruit. Coffee growing well: 'if similar and proper situations to this were planted with this valuable shrub, I have no doubt but it would succeed well in this colony'. Van Reenen, 'a very intelligent gentleman, and fond of experiments in horticulture', once in command of a squadron [crossed out and replaced with 'troop of cavalry'] sent 'to the frontiers to protect the Boors from the attacks of the Caffres'. Being told of van Reenen having seen a plant in the arid plains of the Tulbagh district [South Africa], 'the cuticle or inner bark of which is like fine flux or silk', having brought some with him and sending some to England to be manufactured: 'he has received intelligence that there is some garment made from it, coming out to him'. The fibres from this plant being very fine and strong, seemingly suitable for cloth-making, but Forbes being unable to determine what plant it was

Considering it 'a great pity' that the fine land around Newlands and Constantia was used for producing 'nothing but cover for game, while the poor Africaners are attempting to cultivate land little or no better than sheer sand'. Going to see Bowey's [James Bowie, botanist sent to South Africa from Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew] plant collection in Cape Town, in a garden managed by a German gardener in Bowie's absence. The collection consisting mainly of bulbs, succulent plants and orchideous plants, many of them already well known in England and collected by Forbes: 'there is an immense number altogether, & probably many new & rare plants'

(31 Aug 1822) Being prevented from going to Simon's Bay by pouring rain and storm. Arranging specimens and skinning birds. The tender being launched

(1 Sep 1822) Preparing to go to Simon's Bay by a wagon, passing at noon. The wagon not arriving, having to leave his specimens and luggage behind to be sent later and setting off on foot, but being surprised by rain and wind. Boarding a passing wagon. Arriving in Simon's Bay at 7pm

(2 Sep 1822) Going on board HMS Leven. Arranging specimens. Bringing specimens collected by William Owen on shore to the observatory to put them in the herbarium

(3 Sep 1822) Arranging specimens. Putting camphor among the specimens collected in Rio [Rio de Janeiro]. Changing specimen papers. Alexander Vidal going to Cape Town to survey Table Bay. Stormy weather

(4 Sep 1822) Changing papers and arranging specimens. Mr Boteler [Thomas Boteler, second lieutenant on HMS Leven and first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta] and Henry Gibbons going to survey Hout's Bay [Hout Bay, South Africa] on the west coast. Masts being put on the schooner

(5 Sep 1822) Collecting moss 'with two men allowed me by Captain Owen [William Owen]', but having difficulties due to moss being very scarce, 'also some turfs of Hymenophyllum' from rocks near the waterfall above Simon's Town. Packing mainly orchideous plants in the moss to send to England

(6 Sep 1822) Packing plants in three boxes. Wrapping roots tight in moss and setting the plants upright in the boxes. The boxes about a foot square, open at the top, covered with four bars of wood instead of a lid to admit air and protect the plants. William Owen going into Cape Town to rig the tender Cockburn

[Entries for 2-6 Sep are repeated on loose leaves in Enclosure 2, in Forbes' hand, continuing with the following entries]


(7-10 Sep 1822) Arranging and packing specimens of plants collected in Rio [Rio de Janeiro] and those collected at the Cape [Cape of Good Hope] that were sufficiently dry to send. William Owen returning from Cape Town on 9 Sep

(11 Sep 1822) Packing two cases with specimens, with joints and cracks pitched up to prevent moisture from entering. Three boxes arriving of loquat and orange plants and vine cuttings from Dirk Gysbert van Reenen, to take to Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay]. Taking them to the observatory [crossed out: 'Sent off a copy of this journal up to the 6th, also letters etc for England. The quantity of specimens & luggage of different kinds that I had brought on board employed me most of the night to put in order for sea in the morning']. Preparing for the journey

[Entries for 11-31 Aug are found in Enclosure 2, in Forbes' hand. See descriptions above for content of these entries]

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RHS archive: plant collector papers

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