Journals of John Forbes: Journal 2
Information
Title - Journals of John Forbes: Journal 2
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/3/1/2
Date - 4 Feb-30 Apr 1822
Scope & content - John Forbes' travel journal, 4 Feb-30 Apr 1822, from England to Portugal, Madeira, Tenerife and Cabo Verde
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-11 [folios 1-6]: Narrative of travel, 4 Feb-3 Mar 1822
Page 12: Blank
Pages 13-53 [folios 1-21]: Narrative of travel, 4 Mar-30 Apr 1822
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled '2. Journal, March 4th to April 30th 1822' and 'Forbes, duplicate of Journal I'. The binding is broken and the front cover is partially detached. The first gathering has detached from the spine, and some pages are loose. The edges of the text block are damaged where pages have protruded. Fragile. Staff are to assist readers with handling. Dimensions: 31.5 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm
From 4 Feb-30 Apr 1822 the journal appears to be a copy of RHS/Col/3/1/1, with annotations from the original (RHS/Col/3/1/1) incorporated. A note on a loose leaf inserted at the front of the volume reads 'This book is a duplicate of the journal marked I up to page 27'. The journal appears to have been sent to the Horticultural Society in two instalments, from Portugal and Brazil
The volume is written in Forbes' hand and annotated in pencil by Forbes, with occasional marginal and interlinear annotations, corrections and crossings out. These annotations primarily consist of alterations of spelling or phrasing, and have not been indicated in the description
The volume is written on rectos only
Original foliation is on the upper right-hand corner of rectos (folios 1-6 on a loose gathering and folios 1-21 on a second gathering). The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
The volume includes a loose leaf inserted at the front which reads 'This book is a duplicate of the journal marked I up to page 27'
Summary of contents:
(4 Feb 1822) Boarding HMS Leven in Spithead, having previously brought belongings on board at Woolwich while the ship was being fitted out
(6 Feb 1822) Boarding HMS Barracouta to deliver a letter from Mr Brookes [unidentified] to Buchannan [John Buchannan, assistant surgeon on HMS Barracouta], Osborne [Alick Osborne, surgeon of HMS Leven] and Connolly [Thomas Connolly, assistant surgeon on HMS Leven]
(7 Feb 1822) On board all day. Seeing a shoal of porpoises (Delphinus phocaena) in the bay
(8 Feb 1822) Anchoring at Portsmouth. Going on shore to purchase shot and 'other necessaries'
(11 Feb 1822) Sailing from Spithead. Passing the 'beautiful and picturesque' Isle of Wight. Anchoring off Cowes
(13 Feb 1822) Sailing from Cowes. Passing through the Needles. Seeing seabirds, presuming them to be shags (Pelecanus graculus) [Pelecanus gracilis] on the white cliffs ('imposing appearance'). Passing St Alban's Head. Seeing the light on Portland Point [Portland Bill lighthouse] in the evening
(14 Feb 1822) Losing sight of England with the Start Point in Devonshire. A pleasant and uneventful passage
(19 Feb 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Finisterre [Spain]
(20 Feb 1822) Passing the town of Vianna [Viana do Castelo, Portugal] at the mouth of the River Lima [Limia, Portugal]. The country to the north of the town hilly, rocky and barren, with cultivated land along the shore. The houses mostly white and low, scattered among the cultivated land and trees. Seeing the Aqueduct of Villa do Condi [Santa Clara Aqueduct, Vila do Conde, Portugal], but being too far away to estimate its length: 'it appeared to be upwards of a mile, I understand it is for the purpose of conveying water to the town'. The coast lower and more open further ahead
(21 Feb 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Carveoira (Peniche) [Cabo Carvoeiro, Peniche, Portugal] and Burling's Rocks [Berlengas archipelago, Portugal] five or six miles from the land. Passing the town of Ericeira [Portugal] in the afternoon. The houses mostly white, standing 'apparently without any order or regularity'. Seeing on the hill the famous Church and Convent of Mafra [Portugal], about 820 feet in length, presenting 'a very striking object from the sea'. Coming in sight of Cape Roca [Cabo da Roca, Portugal] with its lofty rugged mountains and villages. The coast from Peniche [Portugal] steep and barren, 'seemed to be well calculated for the researches of a geologist', but having no opportunity to examine it. Anchoring at the mouth of the river Tagus [Portugal] in the evening. The wind changing to easterly gales
(22 Feb 1822) The wind preventing the ship approaching the land until the morning
(23 Feb 1822) The wind more moderate. Taking a pilot on board and proceeding up the river Tagus [Portugal]. Anchoring in the afternoon. Boarding a boat to go on shore to deliver a letter to Mr Jeffery [John Jeffery, British consul in Lisbon, Portugal] at Belam [Belem, Lisbon, Portugal]: 'he received me very kindly and promised me every assistance'.
Seeing for the first time fences composed of American aloe (Agave americana) 'and the striped variety', growing with Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica]. Seeing other trees with a dry, dull appearance, discovering them to be olive (Olea europaea) and cork (Quercus suber) trees, and seeing for the first time in open air some beautiful palm trees (Phoenix dactylifera). Lisbon 'pretty', the houses all of white stone or whitewashed, but with 'a great sameness in it from the want of spires to the churches', the locals being afraid to build them, 'for fear of [crossed out and replaced with 'on account of'] the earthquakes'. Seeing Old Lisbon on the other side of the river, destroyed by an earthquake in 1755, a 'sad specimen of the effects of these dreadful phenomena'
(24 Feb 1822) Visiting the aqueduct [Aqueduto das Aguas Livres, Lisbon, Portugal]. Discovering its length to be 3,450 feet, with its central arch 180 feet high and 20 feet in span. Seeing groves of orange trees with some fruits remaining, most having been gathered, almond trees in blossom and an Arum and Narcissus bulbocodium in flower. Oranges planted near brooks or in damp locations, being kept damp until the fruit ripened
(25 Feb 1822) Visiting the Botanic Garden at Adjuda [Ajuda, Lisbon]. Intending to deliver a letter to Mr Brotero [Felix de Avelar Brotero, director of the Ajuda Botanical Gardens in Lisbon], but not finding him. Being shown around the garden by the gardener in Brotero's absence. The collection of plants appearing limited and the garden looking 'slovenly'. The lower part of the garden laid out in squares by hedges of sweet bay (Laurus nobilis) but with few plants, 'except what nature sends'. The upper part a terrace with different shapes, squares and triangles, with one species of plants in each division. Seeing at the back a hothouse or old fashioned greenhouse, with plants already familiar in England, Forbes having seen better specimens of most. Seeing some fine specimens of cactus, already common in England.
Being shown the museum attached to the garden, with an extensive and well-arranged collection of minerals, a zoological collection containing hippopotamus skins from the east coast of Africa and birds from South America ('a good collection but not in a very excellent state of preservation'), a well-preserved and extensive collection of fishes and a good collection of snakes: 'they are arranged without regard to system to please the eye, in cases with glass fronts', exposing them to light. Noting that the new royal palace nearby will be a 'magnificent' building when finished, composed of whitish-yellow polished limestone and with fine paintings in the rooms
(26 Feb 1822) Visiting Felix de Avelar Brotero again but not finding him. Leaving letters and 'the list' for him, and intending to visit again the following morning. Visiting John Jeffery's house, the former residence of Marshal Beresford [William Carr Beresford, general in the British Army and marshal in the Portuguese Army] to see his garden, with plants from Brazil, 'kept in better order than any I have seen about Lisbon'
(27 Feb 1822) Visiting Felix de Avelar Brotero. Finding him infirm with gout and old age: 'he was very kind and offered me plants of anything I wanted'. Being informed where to find Mr Correa [Abbe Jose Correia da Serra, naturalist and diplomat in Portugal]. Delivering a letter to him, and being promised assistance
(28 Feb 1822) Going across the bay to the other side of the river Tagus [Portugal] to shoot birds. Seeing only a few, common also in England. The land composed of sand covered in vineyards with plants cut and contorted to take root against the ground. Seeing pines (Pinus pinea), olives, myrtles, Erica vulgaris [Calluna vulgaris] and Erica mediterranea [Erica herbacea] [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants], no grasses, and corn with a 'meagre appearance'. The trees covered with species of lichen, giving them a 'sickly look'
(1 Mar 1822) Going to the Botanic Garden to acquire plants. Felix de Avelar Brotero being unwell and asking Forbes to return the following day
(2 Mar 1822) Going to the Botanic Garden. Receiving over 40 kinds of plants and seeds of 23 from Felix de Avelar Brotero. Taking the plants to John Jeffery's house to pack them along with Brazilian plants from William Carr Beresford's garden
(3 Mar 1822) Packing plants. Procuring several Portuguese vines, grown for their fruit rather than for making wine
(4 Mar 1822) Preparing to leave Lisbon. Packing up a copy of the first part of this journal. Writing letters to England and leaving them with John Jeffery, along with a copy of the journal to be forwarded to the secretary of the RHS [Joseph Sabine]. Purchasing more camphor. Sailing down the river and anchoring at Belam [Belem]
(5 Mar 1822) Sailing from the Tagus [Portugal] with a fair wind: 'bid adieu to the shores of Europe. For a time after this nothing in particular occurred'
(8 Mar 1822) Passing Porto Santo [Portugal] and the Desertas Islands [Portugal]. Anchoring at Madeira [Portugal] in the afternoon. Going on shore with a letter to Mr Veitch [Henry Veitch, British consul in Madeira]. Visiting Veitch's garden. Seeing for the first time in the open ground mango [Mangifera indica), granadilla (Passiflora quadrangularis) [Passiflora quadrangularis], guava (Psidium pyriferum, Psidium pomiferum) [Psidium guajava], pineapples ('but they look starved and sickly') and tamarind (Tamarindus indicus) [here the journal includes a list of 6 more plants]. In another garden 'belonging to a Portuguese gentleman', seeing cocoa nut [coconut] (Cocos nucifera) and alligator pear (Laurus persea) [avocado, Laurus americana]. Boarding the ship to prepare for a trip to the interior of the island the following day
(9 Mar 1822) Leaving Funchal [Madeira] with Lieutenant Boteler [Thomas Boteler, second lieutenant on HMS Leven and first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta] and some other officers from the ship to the village of Camera de Lobos [Camara de Lobos, Madeira], staying at Henry Veitch's house overnight.
Mostly vines being cultivated, with only the south side of the island producing fine wine [annotated: 'remarks on the culture of the vine']. Planting of vines involving 'great pains' with trenching of the ground to a depth of three or four feet [annotated: 'and sometimes even as deep as seven feet, to a foundation of solid lava'], planting two- or three-year old plants at the bottom and making a horizontal trellis of the stalks of Arundo donax overhead, to which the vines are trained. The vineyards being situated to take advantage of the water and the hilly location with streams of water available in dry weather. The vines planted in rows four feet apart with plants two feet apart within the rows and no manure used
Seeing along the roadsides and in the hedges two species of cactus, Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica] and humilis [Opuntia tuna], and in the damp ground near the brooks [annotated: 'eddoe or'] Arum esculentum [Colocasia esculenta], one of the chief vegetables on the island, planted eight or nine inches apart and covered in water to discourage weeds, being dug up after 10 months and the larger tubers selected. Bananas (Musa sapientum) cultivated in similar locations, producing fine fruits. The largest trees being Laurus indica [Persea indica] and foetens [Ocotea foetens] and chestnut (Castanea vesca)
Arriving in the evening at the Jardin [Quinta Jardim da Serra, Veitch's house], beautifully located at the top of a deep valley. Staying for the night. Setting out in the morning for the Valley of the Coral [Curral das Freiras, Madeira]
(10 Mar 1822) Leaving Henry Veitch's house in the morning: 'the road now became very indifferent'. The main shrubs being some species of Rubus and the common broom (Spartium scoparium) [Scotch broom, Cytisus scoparius]. Stopping for the views at 3,994 feet above sea level: 'the sight was sublime', with clouds beneath and the tops of the rugged mountains above them. The rocks covered with Lycopodium hispidum [Selaginella hispida] (specimen 11) and Sempervivum canariense [Aeonium canariense], with trees of Laurus foetens [Ocotea foetens] and Erica viridipurpurea [Erica erigena], some two feet in diameter. Reaching an altitude of 4,271 feet, measured on a barometer. Descending into the Valley of the Coral [Curral das Freiras] by a rugged, almost perpendicular road cut in the mountain, crossing a brook and ascending a similar road on the other side, cut on the face of the damp rock. Collecting specimens and plants of Adiantum reniforme. Reaching the top of the hill between 4pm and 5pm. Arriving at Funchal at 7pm. Seeing a few birds, also common in England, and not many insects
(11 Mar 1822) Arranging the plants collected the previous day and planting them in Henry Veitch's garden. Collecting seeds and flowers from the garden for botanical lectures on board
(12 Mar 1822) Visiting Mr Keear's[?] garden. Seeing many fine plants, including Bignonia pandorea [Pandorea pandorana], Bignonia capreolata, Solandra grandiflora and Passiflora incarnata [Passiflora edulis] in flower. Collecting more flowers for the lectures on board. Writing letters to leave with Henry Veitch. Preparing to leave Madeira the following morning
(13 Mar 1822) Sailing from Funchal in the morning with a light breeze. Losing sight of Madeira during the night
(15 Mar 1822) Passing the islands of Alegranza [Spain] and Lancerota [Lanzarote, Spain] to the east in the afternoon. The islands appearing barren and 'incapable of cultivation being nothing but bare rocks'
(16 Mar 1822) Passing the island of Forteventura [Fuerteventura, Spain]. Coming in sight of Teneriffe [Tenerife, Spain], seeing the Peak [Pico del Teide, Tenerife] covered in snow. Anchoring at 7pm
(17 Mar 1822) Going on shore to make arrangements with the vice-consul [John Duplan, British vice-consul in Tenerife] to visit the interior of the island the following day. Staying on board the ship and preparing for an early start in the morning
(18 Mar 1822) Going on shore at 6.30am for breakfast. Proceeding towards the town of Laguna [La Laguna, Tenerife] about one and a half miles from Santa Cruz [Tenerife]. Going up a deep narrow valley with banks covered with Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica] and Agave americana. Collecting plants and catching several species of insects. Birds scarce in that part of the island. The land well cultivated with two or three crops per year, but not many vineyards. Arriving at Laguna for refreshments for the party and the horses. Returning to Santa Cruz at 8pm
(19 Mar 1822) Visiting gardens near Santa Cruz: 'horticulture is but little attended to', with few plants in the gardens. Recruiting Mr Lorenzo Pastor [Lorenzo Pastor Castro] as a Horticultural Society correspondent
(20 Mar 1822) Writing letters and delivering them to the vice-consul John Duplan. Sailing from Santa Cruz
(22 Mar 1822) Latitude 24°9'N. Seeing the first sea nettles or Portuguese men of war (Medusa caravella) [Physalia physalis]. Catching two and preserving them in spirits. Touching the tentacles causing stinging sensation similar to that of 'cowitch' [cowage], making everyone afraid to touch them, but some sailors suffering for their curiosity. Some of the tentacles up to 12 feet long but so fragile that it was impossible to preserve one of such length (specimen 1 of jar 1). Crossing the Tropic of Cancer in the evening
(24 Mar 1822) Seeing the first flying fish (Exocoetus volitans), a tropical bird Phaeton aethereus [Phaethon aethereus] and some stormy petrels (Procellaria pelagica) [Hydrobates pelagicus], generally considered an omen for bad weather by sailors. The weather continuing fine. Seeing large numbers of Medusa caravella [Physalia physalis]
(25 Mar 1822) Coming in sight of Sal [Cabo Verde]: 'certainly the barrenest of any of this groups of islands we visited'. Anchoring south-east of Lionshead Hill [Lions Head Mountain, Sal] ('so called from some supposed resemblance to the head of that animal'). Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven] wanting to make observations and to leave a party for observing rockets later fired from the island of St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau, Cabo Verde], to be collected later by HMS Barracouta
Going on shore with Thomas Boteler and Edward Johnes [Edward Owen Johnes, lieutenant on HMS Leven and HMS Barracouta] to collect plants and 'other objects of natural history'. Going across the island to see the saltpan at the north-east side of the island, a large almost circular hollow covering about half an acre. The saltpan surrounded by hills 'of moderate height', with a pink appearance from above and little or no water in it. The crust of salt over the mud an inch or two thick, of excellent quality and a 'singular' appearance contrasting with the barren and burnt surface of the rest of the island. The surface of the saltpan above the sea level being 97 feet
Not finding many plants, the only shrub being a species of Gnaphalium (specimen 2), growing 12-18 inches high. Owen being more fortunate and finding one in flower, and giving it to Forbes along with other plants he had collected. Another shrub a species of 'Cassia?' (specimen 4) growing in the bed of a dry rivulet. The land appearing not to have had any rain for months, with plants burnt up. Being unable to find specimens of the grass with flowers or seeds, and unable to ascertain the principal vegetation on the island, any blades of grass having been eaten by the numerous goats: 'notwithstanding the barrenness of the land, I did not observe the least trace of cultivation in those parts we visited'
The island owned by Mr Marteina [Manuel Antonio Martins, governor of Cabo Verde and Guinea], with about 60 residents. The superintendent or governor living about a mile from the saltpan, but having no time to visit him. The island about 17 miles long and six wide. The only animals being goats, some donkeys and wild cats. Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere, accompanying Captain William Owen on HMS Leven to study hydrography] shooting one of the cats the following day: 'it did not appear to differ in any respect from the domestic cat, only in its habits'. Seeing insects including one or two species of Gryllus (specimens 1 and 2), and collecting specimens. Seeing a species of Tetrao, larger than the common quail, but unable to get near enough to shoot them in the open plains. Procuring specimens of another small bird flying in flocks, tamer than the quails (specimen 1). Picking up 'some marine productions' on the shore. A boat being sent for the party at sunset
(26 Mar 1822) William Owen not intending to sail until the evening. Going on shore to the observation tent at the foot of the Lionshead Hill [Lions Head Mountain] at the north-west corner. Climbing up the west side of the hill, composed of small particles of burnt earth united together to form a light porous rock breaking off and rolling into the sea. The hill about 620 feet high, with the face towards the sea very steep because of the falling rocks and the waves. The only plant the orchilla (Lichen rochella) [orchella, Roccella tinctoria], growing 'in all situations where the rocks remain stationary for any length of time'. The plant collected on this island and the other Cabo Verde Islands and the Canary Islands [Spain] for use in dyeing, being sent in great quantities to Europe. Finding specimens of a plant (specimen 1) on a flat, sandy piece of ground where the tide flows in stormy weather: 'much finer than those I had gathered the day before', but the dry season being the worst time for visiting
Seeing eagles (Falco ossifragus) [Haliaeetus albicilla] and kites along the coast. Seeing an eagle's nest near the landing place, composed of a quantity of sticks of all sizes, about eight feet across, built level with the ground on a projecting rock, with fish bones, shells and limbs of crabs lying around it, but no eggs or young ones in it: 'it furnished the gentlemen of the tent who were on shore taking observations with abundance of fuel for their fire for dressing their victuals at a much easier rate than they could possibly have procured it by any other means', without bringing wood from the ship or collecting it themselves: 'it would have been a work of great labour to have got as much as would have boiled a kettle of fish, of which the people in the boats caught abundance in the bay'. Observing that the birds must procure the materials for their nests from the wreck on the beach washed from the other islands as there is no wood on the island. Observing the eagles hunting by watching the boobies (Pelecanus parvus) [unidentified] diving for fish, attacking them before they swallow the fish, catching it in their talons and flying to a nearby rock with their stolen booty. Charles Lechmere shooting one of the eagles, but not being able to preserve it, despite skinning it immediately, it being the moulting season. Noting that the eagles were difficult to kill except with a bullet or 'a whole charge of large shot', staying away from people as they did and being protected by their feathers from small shot. Shooting two hawks (specimen 2), numerous on the island, feeding on the many small lizards
Not finding any plant specimens on the hill. Returning to the rocky beach, covered with the coral Madrepora. Picking up Fucus algae and cuttlefish (Sepia) [Sepiida] (specimen 1 of jar 3): 'this animal which is of a flesh colour spotted with chestnut or liver coloured spots, but on being touched it seemed much irritated and changed its whole colour into a dirty livid white'. Finding a starfish (Asterias) (specimen 1 of jar 2), having not seen one before, and a brilliant scarlet coloured species of Madrepora (specimen 4 of jar 3). Thomas Boteler giving Forbes specimens of several minerals
Returning on board the ship, the recall signal having been hoisted. Sailing towards St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau]. Spending most of the night arranging specimens and preparing to go on shore the following morning. William Owen leaving Lieutenant Owen [Richard Owen, lieutenant on HMS Leven and commander of the Cockburn] and 'one of the young gentlemen' behind to observe the rockets to be fired from St Nicholas. William Owen suggesting Forbes join the party going to St Nicholas, the island being more fertile than the other islands and offering more variety than St Vincent [Sao Vicente, Cabo Verde], where the ship was bound
(27 Mar 1822) Coming in sight of St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau]. Lieutenant Mudge from HMS Barracouta [William Mudge, first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta] having joined HMS Leven to accompany the party on the island for firing rockets and taking observations for ascertaining the distance between the islands of St Nicholas, Sal and St Vincent [Sao Vicente]. The landing place a shallow bay on the west side of the island. Going on shore with Mudge, Charles Lechmere and others on a boat with provisions for three days. Stiff breeze and rough sea. Taking shoes and stockings off to get through the heavy surf, but having to put them back on reaching the hot sand, 'or our feet would have been blistered in a few minutes'
Dividing up into two parties to search for donkeys to carry the rocket provisions. Lechmere and Mudge finding a house under a projecting rock at the bottom of one of the deep dingles, with a woman 'who on observing them screamed out and ran off as fast as she could'. Seeing a man and asking him for donkeys. Receiving a dozen donkeys two hours later, with an equal number of men to drive and take care of them. Agreeing with them to be taken to the top of Monte Gurdo [Monte Gordo, Sao Nicolau], the highest mountain on the island, to fire the rockets. Arriving at the village of Pria Branca [Praia Branca, Sao Nicolau] at sunset: 'I believe every human being in the village was out to see us'. The village consisting of about 30 stone dwellings thatched with reeds (Arundo donax). Pitching a tent above the village in an enclosure among Euphorbia balsamifera and Jatropha curcas trees. Procuring some refreshment and lying down to rest
(28 Mar 1822) Taking a walk around the camp to search for plants before breakfast. The scenery romantic, with a small run of water supplying the village below the camping place, with bananas and papaws [papaya] planted on the edge of the brook, and vines and cassava on the banks. The vineyards and cassava grounds laid out to be irrigated when required, with stone walls three feet high, a dam in the brook and water directed to run from one step to another. Vines planted and treated similarly but with a horizontal trellis overhead to which they were trained. Sugar cane grown, but chewed by the locals instead of being made into sugar. Bread being made from cassava root and Indian corn [flint corn]. A plant, possibly a species of Phaseolus, being used for food by the locals. No flowers in season. Acquiring seeds in pods and out of the pod, 'in the state in which they are boiled and eaten by the natives' (specimen 14). Finding several curious plants
Receiving information that donkeys or assistance from locals would not be available without an order from the governor to the judge of the village, and having to wait for a messenger to inform the governor, living 10 or 12 miles away. In order for William Mudge to fire the rockets in the evening, having to travel 10 miles on a difficult and dangerous road: 'indeed it would have been impossible for the asses to have gone along with anything on their backs, for in many places we were obliged to hold on with our hands and creep on our knees', each carrying an equal portion. The road running along a narrow passage almost perpendicular across the rock, with 'scarcely a breath of wind and almost a vertical sun'. The temperature 95° in the shade. Several of the party finding it impossible to proceed with the weight. Paying two men working in a vineyard 'a trifling remuneration' for carrying part of the load. Having to leave some of the load behind, with an order for it to be sent when the messenger returned from the governor
Stopping by a spring after about a mile and a half. Finding several pretty plants, including a beautiful Campanula (specimen 35) in the rock crevices. Meeting a man who had been collecting orchilla [orchella] using a stem of Arundo donax 16 feet long with a wooden end cut in the shape of a hand to reach the plant on the rock face. The road becoming more difficult and the day hotter. Resting at the top of the passage at 1pm. Admiring the view from the head of three deep valleys surrounded by steep, rugged mountains and clouds below
Reaching the village Ribeira do Calhao [Ribeira do Calhaus, Sao Nicolau] at the foot of Monte Gurdo [Monte Gordo, Sao Nicolau] with about a dozen dwellings. The people being 'very civil' and selling the party eggs, milk, bananas, papayas and sugar cane: 'we made a very hearty meal of these things though not a very comfortable one'. Being given two donkeys to carry luggage and water to the top of the mountain. The road from the village better but the day very hot. Going through woods of 'Euphorbia balsamifera?'
Reaching the summit after three hours. Being pleased to see a man following them with their tent and belongings: 'but for this we should have been obliged to sleep in the open air where the wind was very high and cold at night'. The mountain not forming a peak at the top but having a regular ascent from the bottom and an even surface, leading to its name Monte Gurdo or Fat Mountain. The soil and minerals on it having burnt, resembling small, fragile, porous pieces of cinder baked together. The summit covered in plants, including Buthalmum serecium [Asteriscus sericeus] (specimen 36) near the top, and Argemone (specimen 11). Euphorbia not growing above 3,700 feet. Fine views over the whole island. The height of the mountain by the barometer 4,380 feet. Temperature at the top 65°. Pitching the tent on flat ground under the lee of a rock, but being unable to sleep due to the wind blowing dust into their faces from the dry earth. William Mudge not firing the rockets due to the clouds, thinking they might not be seen from the other islands
(29 Mar 1822) Going down to the village to breakfast on tea and sugar brought with them, boiled up in an iron kettle with goat's milk and drunk from cups made of the rind of a pumpkin called callebash: [calabash] 'earthenware seem to be almost unknown here'. Going to search for plants, intending to collect them later. Catching several insects of the commonly found Gryllus, feeding on vegetables and in particular sugar cane. Seeing a 'poor variety' of birds, with kites (Falco milvus) [Milvus milvus] and carrion crows (Corvus corone) being most common. Seeing many guinea fowls, called gallena by the locals: 'we killed two, they are very wild'. Returning by a different route to the top. Seeing no new plants apart from a beautiful one with panicles of dark blue flowers (specimen 9) growing out of the dry rock
(30 Mar 1822) Firing the rockets between 1am and 3.30am. Hearing afterwards that due to the clouds the rockets were not seen either in Sal or St Vincent [Sao Vicente]. The launch succeeding otherwise: 'the large parachute was suspended in the air upwards of six minutes'
Breakfasting at the summit. William Mudge taking observations. Forbes collecting plants and seeds, but not finding many as the season was not right for flowers or fruit: 'no doubt a great many are entirely invisible'. Passing through a wood of 'Euphorbia balsamifera?', the main shrub on the island, growing 10 or 12 feet high and dried for fuel by the locals. Collecting plants including a beautiful species of Adiantum growing in crevices of stone walls surrounding a sugar plantation, similar to the vine and cassava plantations at Pria Branca [Praia Branca, Sao Nicolau], with sarmentose fronds taking root at the extremities and covering the front of the walls. Only seeing it in a single spot below the village of Ribeira do Calhao [Ribeira do Calhaus, Sao Nicolau] (specimen 21). Having their tent and other belongings brought down from the mountain. Pitching the tent under banana trees in the valley
(31 Mar 1822) Receiving a letter from the governor requesting a visit and offering assistance, but not having time to visit him. The governor sending nine donkeys on request to carry them and their baggage to the beach, from where HMS Barracouta would take them to St Vincent [Sao Vicente] to join HMS Leven. Packing and setting off at 8am. The road 'far from being good, but it was much better than the one we had come three days before'. Discovering no new plants. A signal fired from HMS Barracouta at 1pm. Reaching the beach an hour later and waiting for a boat to board the ship. St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau] more fertile than Sal, 'but the part we visited is far from being prolific'
Sailing from St Nicholas. Noting that locals use oil from Jatropha curcas nuts and ashes from burnt leaves of the papaw [papaya] tree to make soap, mixing them together in an iron pot over a fire, stirring constantly with a stick until it thickens, cooling it and rolling it up into a ball the size of a cricket ball: 'it is of a dark mottled colour and produces very good lather'
(1 Apr 1822) Coming in sight of HMS Leven anchored in Porto Grande Bay [Sao Vicente]. William Owen hailing William Cutfield [captain of HMS Barracouta] to inform him of their sailing for Terra-fal bay [Baya nga Tarrafal, Santiago, Cabo Verde] on the coast of St Antonio [Santo Antao, Cabo Verde]. Boarding the ship. Anchoring at Terra Sal in the evening. Spending the night arranging the specimens and articles collected on St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau]
(2 Apr 1822) Landing at Terra-fal bay [Baya nga Tarrafal]. John Forbes' travel journal, 4 Feb-30 Apr 1822, from England to Portugal, Madeira, Tenerife and Cabo Verde
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-11 [folios 1-6]: Narrative of travel, 4 Feb-3 Mar 1822
Page 12: Blank
Pages 13-53 [folios 1-21]: Narrative of travel, 4 Mar-30 Apr 1822
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled '2. Journal, March 4th to April 30th 1822' and 'Forbes, duplicate of Journal I'. The binding is broken and the front cover is partially detached. The first gathering has detached from the spine, and some pages are loose. The edges of the text block are damaged where pages have protruded. Fragile. Staff are to assist readers with handling. Dimensions: 31.5 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm
From 4 Feb-30 Apr 1822 the journal appears to be a copy of RHS/Col/3/1/1, with annotations from the original (RHS/Col/3/1/1) incorporated. A note on a loose leaf inserted at the front of the volume reads 'This book is a duplicate of the journal marked I up to page 27'. The journal appears to have been sent to the Horticultural Society in two instalments, from Portugal and Brazil
The volume is written in Forbes' hand and annotated in pencil by Forbes, with occasional marginal and interlinear annotations, corrections and crossings out. These annotations primarily consist of alterations of spelling or phrasing, and have not been indicated in the description
The volume is written on rectos only
Original foliation is on the upper right-hand corner of rectos (folios 1-6 on a loose gathering and folios 1-21 on a second gathering). The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
The volume includes a loose leaf inserted at the front which reads 'This book is a duplicate of the journal marked I up to page 27'
Summary of contents:
(4 Feb 1822) Boarding HMS Leven in Spithead, having previously brought belongings on board at Woolwich while the ship was being fitted out
(6 Feb 1822) Boarding HMS Barracouta to deliver a letter from Mr Brookes [unidentified] to Buchannan [John Buchannan, assistant surgeon on HMS Barracouta], Osborne [Alick Osborne, surgeon of HMS Leven] and Connolly [Thomas Connolly, assistant surgeon on HMS Leven]
(7 Feb 1822) On board all day. Seeing a shoal of porpoises (Delphinus phocaena) in the bay
(8 Feb 1822) Anchoring at Portsmouth. Going on shore to purchase shot and 'other necessaries'
(11 Feb 1822) Sailing from Spithead. Passing the 'beautiful and picturesque' Isle of Wight. Anchoring off Cowes
(13 Feb 1822) Sailing from Cowes. Passing through the Needles. Seeing seabirds, presuming them to be shags (Pelecanus graculus) [Pelecanus gracilis] on the white cliffs ('imposing appearance'). Passing St Alban's Head. Seeing the light on Portland Point [Portland Bill lighthouse] in the evening
(14 Feb 1822) Losing sight of England with the Start Point in Devonshire. A pleasant and uneventful passage
(19 Feb 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Finisterre [Spain]
(20 Feb 1822) Passing the town of Vianna [Viana do Castelo, Portugal] at the mouth of the River Lima [Limia, Portugal]. The country to the north of the town hilly, rocky and barren, with cultivated land along the shore. The houses mostly white and low, scattered among the cultivated land and trees. Seeing the Aqueduct of Villa do Condi [Santa Clara Aqueduct, Vila do Conde, Portugal], but being too far away to estimate its length: 'it appeared to be upwards of a mile, I understand it is for the purpose of conveying water to the town'. The coast lower and more open further ahead
(21 Feb 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Carveoira (Peniche) [Cabo Carvoeiro, Peniche, Portugal] and Burling's Rocks [Berlengas archipelago, Portugal] five or six miles from the land. Passing the town of Ericeira [Portugal] in the afternoon. The houses mostly white, standing 'apparently without any order or regularity'. Seeing on the hill the famous Church and Convent of Mafra [Portugal], about 820 feet in length, presenting 'a very striking object from the sea'. Coming in sight of Cape Roca [Cabo da Roca, Portugal] with its lofty rugged mountains and villages. The coast from Peniche [Portugal] steep and barren, 'seemed to be well calculated for the researches of a geologist', but having no opportunity to examine it. Anchoring at the mouth of the river Tagus [Portugal] in the evening. The wind changing to easterly gales
(22 Feb 1822) The wind preventing the ship approaching the land until the morning
(23 Feb 1822) The wind more moderate. Taking a pilot on board and proceeding up the river Tagus [Portugal]. Anchoring in the afternoon. Boarding a boat to go on shore to deliver a letter to Mr Jeffery [John Jeffery, British consul in Lisbon, Portugal] at Belam [Belem, Lisbon, Portugal]: 'he received me very kindly and promised me every assistance'.
Seeing for the first time fences composed of American aloe (Agave americana) 'and the striped variety', growing with Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica]. Seeing other trees with a dry, dull appearance, discovering them to be olive (Olea europaea) and cork (Quercus suber) trees, and seeing for the first time in open air some beautiful palm trees (Phoenix dactylifera). Lisbon 'pretty', the houses all of white stone or whitewashed, but with 'a great sameness in it from the want of spires to the churches', the locals being afraid to build them, 'for fear of [crossed out and replaced with 'on account of'] the earthquakes'. Seeing Old Lisbon on the other side of the river, destroyed by an earthquake in 1755, a 'sad specimen of the effects of these dreadful phenomena'
(24 Feb 1822) Visiting the aqueduct [Aqueduto das Aguas Livres, Lisbon, Portugal]. Discovering its length to be 3,450 feet, with its central arch 180 feet high and 20 feet in span. Seeing groves of orange trees with some fruits remaining, most having been gathered, almond trees in blossom and an Arum and Narcissus bulbocodium in flower. Oranges planted near brooks or in damp locations, being kept damp until the fruit ripened
(25 Feb 1822) Visiting the Botanic Garden at Adjuda [Ajuda, Lisbon]. Intending to deliver a letter to Mr Brotero [Felix de Avelar Brotero, director of the Ajuda Botanical Gardens in Lisbon], but not finding him. Being shown around the garden by the gardener in Brotero's absence. The collection of plants appearing limited and the garden looking 'slovenly'. The lower part of the garden laid out in squares by hedges of sweet bay (Laurus nobilis) but with few plants, 'except what nature sends'. The upper part a terrace with different shapes, squares and triangles, with one species of plants in each division. Seeing at the back a hothouse or old fashioned greenhouse, with plants already familiar in England, Forbes having seen better specimens of most. Seeing some fine specimens of cactus, already common in England.
Being shown the museum attached to the garden, with an extensive and well-arranged collection of minerals, a zoological collection containing hippopotamus skins from the east coast of Africa and birds from South America ('a good collection but not in a very excellent state of preservation'), a well-preserved and extensive collection of fishes and a good collection of snakes: 'they are arranged without regard to system to please the eye, in cases with glass fronts', exposing them to light. Noting that the new royal palace nearby will be a 'magnificent' building when finished, composed of whitish-yellow polished limestone and with fine paintings in the rooms
(26 Feb 1822) Visiting Felix de Avelar Brotero again but not finding him. Leaving letters and 'the list' for him, and intending to visit again the following morning. Visiting John Jeffery's house, the former residence of Marshal Beresford [William Carr Beresford, general in the British Army and marshal in the Portuguese Army] to see his garden, with plants from Brazil, 'kept in better order than any I have seen about Lisbon'
(27 Feb 1822) Visiting Felix de Avelar Brotero. Finding him infirm with gout and old age: 'he was very kind and offered me plants of anything I wanted'. Being informed where to find Mr Correa [Abbe Jose Correia da Serra, naturalist and diplomat in Portugal]. Delivering a letter to him, and being promised assistance
(28 Feb 1822) Going across the bay to the other side of the river Tagus [Portugal] to shoot birds. Seeing only a few, common also in England. The land composed of sand covered in vineyards with plants cut and contorted to take root against the ground. Seeing pines (Pinus pinea), olives, myrtles, Erica vulgaris [Calluna vulgaris] and Erica mediterranea [Erica herbacea] [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants], no grasses, and corn with a 'meagre appearance'. The trees covered with species of lichen, giving them a 'sickly look'
(1 Mar 1822) Going to the Botanic Garden to acquire plants. Felix de Avelar Brotero being unwell and asking Forbes to return the following day
(2 Mar 1822) Going to the Botanic Garden. Receiving over 40 kinds of plants and seeds of 23 from Felix de Avelar Brotero. Taking the plants to John Jeffery's house to pack them along with Brazilian plants from William Carr Beresford's garden
(3 Mar 1822) Packing plants. Procuring several Portuguese vines, grown for their fruit rather than for making wine
(4 Mar 1822) Preparing to leave Lisbon. Packing up a copy of the first part of this journal. Writing letters to England and leaving them with John Jeffery, along with a copy of the journal to be forwarded to the secretary of the RHS [Joseph Sabine]. Purchasing more camphor. Sailing down the river and anchoring at Belam [Belem]
(5 Mar 1822) Sailing from the Tagus [Portugal] with a fair wind: 'bid adieu to the shores of Europe. For a time after this nothing in particular occurred'
(8 Mar 1822) Passing Porto Santo [Portugal] and the Desertas Islands [Portugal]. Anchoring at Madeira [Portugal] in the afternoon. Going on shore with a letter to Mr Veitch [Henry Veitch, British consul in Madeira]. Visiting Veitch's garden. Seeing for the first time in the open ground mango [Mangifera indica), granadilla (Passiflora quadrangularis) [Passiflora quadrangularis], guava (Psidium pyriferum, Psidium pomiferum) [Psidium guajava], pineapples ('but they look starved and sickly') and tamarind (Tamarindus indicus) [here the journal includes a list of 6 more plants]. In another garden 'belonging to a Portuguese gentleman', seeing cocoa nut [coconut] (Cocos nucifera) and alligator pear (Laurus persea) [avocado, Laurus americana]. Boarding the ship to prepare for a trip to the interior of the island the following day
(9 Mar 1822) Leaving Funchal [Madeira] with Lieutenant Boteler [Thomas Boteler, second lieutenant on HMS Leven and first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta] and some other officers from the ship to the village of Camera de Lobos [Camara de Lobos, Madeira], staying at Henry Veitch's house overnight.
Mostly vines being cultivated, with only the south side of the island producing fine wine [annotated: 'remarks on the culture of the vine']. Planting of vines involving 'great pains' with trenching of the ground to a depth of three or four feet [annotated: 'and sometimes even as deep as seven feet, to a foundation of solid lava'], planting two- or three-year old plants at the bottom and making a horizontal trellis of the stalks of Arundo donax overhead, to which the vines are trained. The vineyards being situated to take advantage of the water and the hilly location with streams of water available in dry weather. The vines planted in rows four feet apart with plants two feet apart within the rows and no manure used
Seeing along the roadsides and in the hedges two species of cactus, Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica] and humilis [Opuntia tuna], and in the damp ground near the brooks [annotated: 'eddoe or'] Arum esculentum [Colocasia esculenta], one of the chief vegetables on the island, planted eight or nine inches apart and covered in water to discourage weeds, being dug up after 10 months and the larger tubers selected. Bananas (Musa sapientum) cultivated in similar locations, producing fine fruits. The largest trees being Laurus indica [Persea indica] and foetens [Ocotea foetens] and chestnut (Castanea vesca)
Arriving in the evening at the Jardin [Quinta Jardim da Serra, Veitch's house], beautifully located at the top of a deep valley. Staying for the night. Setting out in the morning for the Valley of the Coral [Curral das Freiras, Madeira]
(10 Mar 1822) Leaving Henry Veitch's house in the morning: 'the road now became very indifferent'. The main shrubs being some species of Rubus and the common broom (Spartium scoparium) [Scotch broom, Cytisus scoparius]. Stopping for the views at 3,994 feet above sea level: 'the sight was sublime', with clouds beneath and the tops of the rugged mountains above them. The rocks covered with Lycopodium hispidum [Selaginella hispida] (specimen 11) and Sempervivum canariense [Aeonium canariense], with trees of Laurus foetens [Ocotea foetens] and Erica viridipurpurea [Erica erigena], some two feet in diameter. Reaching an altitude of 4,271 feet, measured on a barometer. Descending into the Valley of the Coral [Curral das Freiras] by a rugged, almost perpendicular road cut in the mountain, crossing a brook and ascending a similar road on the other side, cut on the face of the damp rock. Collecting specimens and plants of Adiantum reniforme. Reaching the top of the hill between 4pm and 5pm. Arriving at Funchal at 7pm. Seeing a few birds, also common in England, and not many insects
(11 Mar 1822) Arranging the plants collected the previous day and planting them in Henry Veitch's garden. Collecting seeds and flowers from the garden for botanical lectures on board
(12 Mar 1822) Visiting Mr Keear's[?] garden. Seeing many fine plants, including Bignonia pandorea [Pandorea pandorana], Bignonia capreolata, Solandra grandiflora and Passiflora incarnata [Passiflora edulis] in flower. Collecting more flowers for the lectures on board. Writing letters to leave with Henry Veitch. Preparing to leave Madeira the following morning
(13 Mar 1822) Sailing from Funchal in the morning with a light breeze. Losing sight of Madeira during the night
(15 Mar 1822) Passing the islands of Alegranza [Spain] and Lancerota [Lanzarote, Spain] to the east in the afternoon. The islands appearing barren and 'incapable of cultivation being nothing but bare rocks'
(16 Mar 1822) Passing the island of Forteventura [Fuerteventura, Spain]. Coming in sight of Teneriffe [Tenerife, Spain], seeing the Peak [Pico del Teide, Tenerife] covered in snow. Anchoring at 7pm
(17 Mar 1822) Going on shore to make arrangements with the vice-consul [John Duplan, British vice-consul in Tenerife] to visit the interior of the island the following day. Staying on board the ship and preparing for an early start in the morning
(18 Mar 1822) Going on shore at 6.30am for breakfast. Proceeding towards the town of Laguna [La Laguna, Tenerife] about one and a half miles from Santa Cruz [Tenerife]. Going up a deep narrow valley with banks covered with Cactus opuntia [Opuntia ficus-indica] and Agave americana. Collecting plants and catching several species of insects. Birds scarce in that part of the island. The land well cultivated with two or three crops per year, but not many vineyards. Arriving at Laguna for refreshments for the party and the horses. Returning to Santa Cruz at 8pm
(19 Mar 1822) Visiting gardens near Santa Cruz: 'horticulture is but little attended to', with few plants in the gardens. Recruiting Mr Lorenzo Pastor [Lorenzo Pastor Castro] as a Horticultural Society correspondent
(20 Mar 1822) Writing letters and delivering them to the vice-consul John Duplan. Sailing from Santa Cruz
(22 Mar 1822) Latitude 24°9'N. Seeing the first sea nettles or Portuguese men of war (Medusa caravella) [Physalia physalis]. Catching two and preserving them in spirits. Touching the tentacles causing stinging sensation similar to that of 'cowitch' [cowage], making everyone afraid to touch them, but some sailors suffering for their curiosity. Some of the tentacles up to 12 feet long but so fragile that it was impossible to preserve one of such length (specimen 1 of jar 1). Crossing the Tropic of Cancer in the evening
(24 Mar 1822) Seeing the first flying fish (Exocoetus volitans), a tropical bird Phaeton aethereus [Phaethon aethereus] and some stormy petrels (Procellaria pelagica) [Hydrobates pelagicus], generally considered an omen for bad weather by sailors. The weather continuing fine. Seeing large numbers of Medusa caravella [Physalia physalis]
(25 Mar 1822) Coming in sight of Sal [Cabo Verde]: 'certainly the barrenest of any of this groups of islands we visited'. Anchoring south-east of Lionshead Hill [Lions Head Mountain, Sal] ('so called from some supposed resemblance to the head of that animal'). Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven] wanting to make observations and to leave a party for observing rockets later fired from the island of St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau, Cabo Verde], to be collected later by HMS Barracouta
Going on shore with Thomas Boteler and Edward Johnes [Edward Owen Johnes, lieutenant on HMS Leven and HMS Barracouta] to collect plants and 'other objects of natural history'. Going across the island to see the saltpan at the north-east side of the island, a large almost circular hollow covering about half an acre. The saltpan surrounded by hills 'of moderate height', with a pink appearance from above and little or no water in it. The crust of salt over the mud an inch or two thick, of excellent quality and a 'singular' appearance contrasting with the barren and burnt surface of the rest of the island. The surface of the saltpan above the sea level being 97 feet
Not finding many plants, the only shrub being a species of Gnaphalium (specimen 2), growing 12-18 inches high. Owen being more fortunate and finding one in flower, and giving it to Forbes along with other plants he had collected. Another shrub a species of 'Cassia?' (specimen 4) growing in the bed of a dry rivulet. The land appearing not to have had any rain for months, with plants burnt up. Being unable to find specimens of the grass with flowers or seeds, and unable to ascertain the principal vegetation on the island, any blades of grass having been eaten by the numerous goats: 'notwithstanding the barrenness of the land, I did not observe the least trace of cultivation in those parts we visited'
The island owned by Mr Marteina [Manuel Antonio Martins, governor of Cabo Verde and Guinea], with about 60 residents. The superintendent or governor living about a mile from the saltpan, but having no time to visit him. The island about 17 miles long and six wide. The only animals being goats, some donkeys and wild cats. Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere, accompanying Captain William Owen on HMS Leven to study hydrography] shooting one of the cats the following day: 'it did not appear to differ in any respect from the domestic cat, only in its habits'. Seeing insects including one or two species of Gryllus (specimens 1 and 2), and collecting specimens. Seeing a species of Tetrao, larger than the common quail, but unable to get near enough to shoot them in the open plains. Procuring specimens of another small bird flying in flocks, tamer than the quails (specimen 1). Picking up 'some marine productions' on the shore. A boat being sent for the party at sunset
(26 Mar 1822) William Owen not intending to sail until the evening. Going on shore to the observation tent at the foot of the Lionshead Hill [Lions Head Mountain] at the north-west corner. Climbing up the west side of the hill, composed of small particles of burnt earth united together to form a light porous rock breaking off and rolling into the sea. The hill about 620 feet high, with the face towards the sea very steep because of the falling rocks and the waves. The only plant the orchilla (Lichen rochella) [orchella, Roccella tinctoria], growing 'in all situations where the rocks remain stationary for any length of time'. The plant collected on this island and the other Cabo Verde Islands and the Canary Islands [Spain] for use in dyeing, being sent in great quantities to Europe. Finding specimens of a plant (specimen 1) on a flat, sandy piece of ground where the tide flows in stormy weather: 'much finer than those I had gathered the day before', but the dry season being the worst time for visiting
Seeing eagles (Falco ossifragus) [Haliaeetus albicilla] and kites along the coast. Seeing an eagle's nest near the landing place, composed of a quantity of sticks of all sizes, about eight feet across, built level with the ground on a projecting rock, with fish bones, shells and limbs of crabs lying around it, but no eggs or young ones in it: 'it furnished the gentlemen of the tent who were on shore taking observations with abundance of fuel for their fire for dressing their victuals at a much easier rate than they could possibly have procured it by any other means', without bringing wood from the ship or collecting it themselves: 'it would have been a work of great labour to have got as much as would have boiled a kettle of fish, of which the people in the boats caught abundance in the bay'. Observing that the birds must procure the materials for their nests from the wreck on the beach washed from the other islands as there is no wood on the island. Observing the eagles hunting by watching the boobies (Pelecanus parvus) [unidentified] diving for fish, attacking them before they swallow the fish, catching it in their talons and flying to a nearby rock with their stolen booty. Charles Lechmere shooting one of the eagles, but not being able to preserve it, despite skinning it immediately, it being the moulting season. Noting that the eagles were difficult to kill except with a bullet or 'a whole charge of large shot', staying away from people as they did and being protected by their feathers from small shot. Shooting two hawks (specimen 2), numerous on the island, feeding on the many small lizards
Not finding any plant specimens on the hill. Returning to the rocky beach, covered with the coral Madrepora. Picking up Fucus algae and cuttlefish (Sepia) [Sepiida] (specimen 1 of jar 3): 'this animal which is of a flesh colour spotted with chestnut or liver coloured spots, but on being touched it seemed much irritated and changed its whole colour into a dirty livid white'. Finding a starfish (Asterias) (specimen 1 of jar 2), having not seen one before, and a brilliant scarlet coloured species of Madrepora (specimen 4 of jar 3). Thomas Boteler giving Forbes specimens of several minerals
Returning on board the ship, the recall signal having been hoisted. Sailing towards St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau]. Spending most of the night arranging specimens and preparing to go on shore the following morning. William Owen leaving Lieutenant Owen [Richard Owen, lieutenant on HMS Leven and commander of the Cockburn] and 'one of the young gentlemen' behind to observe the rockets to be fired from St Nicholas. William Owen suggesting Forbes join the party going to St Nicholas, the island being more fertile than the other islands and offering more variety than St Vincent [Sao Vicente, Cabo Verde], where the ship was bound
(27 Mar 1822) Coming in sight of St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau]. Lieutenant Mudge from HMS Barracouta [William Mudge, first lieutenant on HMS Barracouta] having joined HMS Leven to accompany the party on the island for firing rockets and taking observations for ascertaining the distance between the islands of St Nicholas, Sal and St Vincent [Sao Vicente]. The landing place a shallow bay on the west side of the island. Going on shore with Mudge, Charles Lechmere and others on a boat with provisions for three days. Stiff breeze and rough sea. Taking shoes and stockings off to get through the heavy surf, but having to put them back on reaching the hot sand, 'or our feet would have been blistered in a few minutes'
Dividing up into two parties to search for donkeys to carry the rocket provisions. Lechmere and Mudge finding a house under a projecting rock at the bottom of one of the deep dingles, with a woman 'who on observing them screamed out and ran off as fast as she could'. Seeing a man and asking him for donkeys. Receiving a dozen donkeys two hours later, with an equal number of men to drive and take care of them. Agreeing with them to be taken to the top of Monte Gurdo [Monte Gordo, Sao Nicolau], the highest mountain on the island, to fire the rockets. Arriving at the village of Pria Branca [Praia Branca, Sao Nicolau] at sunset: 'I believe every human being in the village was out to see us'. The village consisting of about 30 stone dwellings thatched with reeds (Arundo donax). Pitching a tent above the village in an enclosure among Euphorbia balsamifera and Jatropha curcas trees. Procuring some refreshment and lying down to rest
(28 Mar 1822) Taking a walk around the camp to search for plants before breakfast. The scenery romantic, with a small run of water supplying the village below the camping place, with bananas and papaws [papaya] planted on the edge of the brook, and vines and cassava on the banks. The vineyards and cassava grounds laid out to be irrigated when required, with stone walls three feet high, a dam in the brook and water directed to run from one step to another. Vines planted and treated similarly but with a horizontal trellis overhead to which they were trained. Sugar cane grown, but chewed by the locals instead of being made into sugar. Bread being made from cassava root and Indian corn [flint corn]. A plant, possibly a species of Phaseolus, being used for food by the locals. No flowers in season. Acquiring seeds in pods and out of the pod, 'in the state in which they are boiled and eaten by the natives' (specimen 14). Finding several curious plants
Receiving information that donkeys or assistance from locals would not be available without an order from the governor to the judge of the village, and having to wait for a messenger to inform the governor, living 10 or 12 miles away. In order for William Mudge to fire the rockets in the evening, having to travel 10 miles on a difficult and dangerous road: 'indeed it would have been impossible for the asses to have gone along with anything on their backs, for in many places we were obliged to hold on with our hands and creep on our knees', each carrying an equal portion. The road running along a narrow passage almost perpendicular across the rock, with 'scarcely a breath of wind and almost a vertical sun'. The temperature 95° in the shade. Several of the party finding it impossible to proceed with the weight. Paying two men working in a vineyard 'a trifling remuneration' for carrying part of the load. Having to leave some of the load behind, with an order for it to be sent when the messenger returned from the governor
Stopping by a spring after about a mile and a half. Finding several pretty plants, including a beautiful Campanula (specimen 35) in the rock crevices. Meeting a man who had been collecting orchilla [orchella] using a stem of Arundo donax 16 feet long with a wooden end cut in the shape of a hand to reach the plant on the rock face. The road becoming more difficult and the day hotter. Resting at the top of the passage at 1pm. Admiring the view from the head of three deep valleys surrounded by steep, rugged mountains and clouds below
Reaching the village Ribeira do Calhao [Ribeira do Calhaus, Sao Nicolau] at the foot of Monte Gurdo [Monte Gordo, Sao Nicolau] with about a dozen dwellings. The people being 'very civil' and selling the party eggs, milk, bananas, papayas and sugar cane: 'we made a very hearty meal of these things though not a very comfortable one'. Being given two donkeys to carry luggage and water to the top of the mountain. The road from the village better but the day very hot. Going through woods of 'Euphorbia balsamifera?'
Reaching the summit after three hours. Being pleased to see a man following them with their tent and belongings: 'but for this we should have been obliged to sleep in the open air where the wind was very high and cold at night'. The mountain not forming a peak at the top but having a regular ascent from the bottom and an even surface, leading to its name Monte Gurdo or Fat Mountain. The soil and minerals on it having burnt, resembling small, fragile, porous pieces of cinder baked together. The summit covered in plants, including Buthalmum serecium [Asteriscus sericeus] (specimen 36) near the top, and Argemone (specimen 11). Euphorbia not growing above 3,700 feet. Fine views over the whole island. The height of the mountain by the barometer 4,380 feet. Temperature at the top 65°. Pitching the tent on flat ground under the lee of a rock, but being unable to sleep due to the wind blowing dust into their faces from the dry earth. William Mudge not firing the rockets due to the clouds, thinking they might not be seen from the other islands
(29 Mar 1822) Going down to the village to breakfast on tea and sugar brought with them, boiled up in an iron kettle with goat's milk and drunk from cups made of the rind of a pumpkin called callebash: [calabash] 'earthenware seem to be almost unknown here'. Going to search for plants, intending to collect them later. Catching several insects of the commonly found Gryllus, feeding on vegetables and in particular sugar cane. Seeing a 'poor variety' of birds, with kites (Falco milvus) [Milvus milvus] and carrion crows (Corvus corone) being most common. Seeing many guinea fowls, called gallena by the locals: 'we killed two, they are very wild'. Returning by a different route to the top. Seeing no new plants apart from a beautiful one with panicles of dark blue flowers (specimen 9) growing out of the dry rock
(30 Mar 1822) Firing the rockets between 1am and 3.30am. Hearing afterwards that due to the clouds the rockets were not seen either in Sal or St Vincent [Sao Vicente]. The launch succeeding otherwise: 'the large parachute was suspended in the air upwards of six minutes'
Breakfasting at the summit. William Mudge taking observations. Forbes collecting plants and seeds, but not finding many as the season was not right for flowers or fruit: 'no doubt a great many are entirely invisible'. Passing through a wood of 'Euphorbia balsamifera?', the main shrub on the island, growing 10 or 12 feet high and dried for fuel by the locals. Collecting plants including a beautiful species of Adiantum growing in crevices of stone walls surrounding a sugar plantation, similar to the vine and cassava plantations at Pria Branca [Praia Branca, Sao Nicolau], with sarmentose fronds taking root at the extremities and covering the front of the walls. Only seeing it in a single spot below the village of Ribeira do Calhao [Ribeira do Calhaus, Sao Nicolau] (specimen 21). Having their tent and other belongings brought down from the mountain. Pitching the tent under banana trees in the valley
(31 Mar 1822) Receiving a letter from the governor requesting a visit and offering assistance, but not having time to visit him. The governor sending nine donkeys on request to carry them and their baggage to the beach, from where HMS Barracouta would take them to St Vincent [Sao Vicente] to join HMS Leven. Packing and setting off at 8am. The road 'far from being good, but it was much better than the one we had come three days before'. Discovering no new plants. A signal fired from HMS Barracouta at 1pm. Reaching the beach an hour later and waiting for a boat to board the ship. St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau] more fertile than Sal, 'but the part we visited is far from being prolific'
Sailing from St Nicholas. Noting that locals use oil from Jatropha curcas nuts and ashes from burnt leaves of the papaw [papaya] tree to make soap, mixing them together in an iron pot over a fire, stirring constantly with a stick until it thickens, cooling it and rolling it up into a ball the size of a cricket ball: 'it is of a dark mottled colour and produces very good lather'
(1 Apr 1822) Coming in sight of HMS Leven anchored in Porto Grande Bay [Sao Vicente]. William Owen hailing William Cutfield [captain of HMS Barracouta] to inform him of their sailing for Terra-fal bay [Baya nga Tarrafal, Santiago, Cabo Verde] on the coast of St Antonio [Santo Antao, Cabo Verde]. Boarding the ship. Anchoring at Terra Sal in the evening. Spending the night arranging the specimens and articles collected on St Nicholas [Sao Nicolau]
(2 Apr 1822) Landing at Terra-fal bay [Baya nga Tarrafal]
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