Fair version of George Don's journal
Information
Title - Fair version of George Don's journal
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/2/1/5
Date - 13 Nov 1821-7 Feb 1823
Scope & content - Fair version of George Don's travel journal, describing the full journey
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-13: Narrative of travel, 13 Nov 1821-13 Jan 1822
Pages 14-16: Copy of a letter from George Don to Joseph Sabine
Pages 17-165: Narrative of travel, 13 Jan 1822-7 Feb 1823
Pages 165-167: 'A list of Articles belonging to Mr George Don on board HM Sloop Pheasant'
Page 168-171: Blank
Physical description: Bound in semi-soft marbled paper covers. Labelled 'Journal of Mr G. Don. 6'. Dimensions: 31.5 (h) x 20 (w) cm. Conserved in 2018: the binding and pages were cleaned and repairs were carried out to both
This volume is the fair journal of George Don. For the first rough version, 13 Nov 1821-7 Feb 1823, see RHS/Col/2/1/1-2, and for the second rough version of the journal, 13 Nov 1821-27 Feb 1823, see RHS/Col/2/1/3-4
The volume is written in a single, unidentified hand, on rectos only. There are no annotations
The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Summary of contents:
(13 Nov 1821) Leaving London with Captain Sabine [Edward Sabine, geophysicist, naturalist and astronomer, brother of Joseph Sabine, secretary of the Horticultural Society of London] to join HMS Iphigenia at Portsmouth
(14 Nov 1821) Arriving at Portsmouth in the morning. Staying at the George Inn. Visiting local gardens and seeing Medicago arborea, Myrtus and Lauristinus, 'finer than I had ever seen before'
(17 Nov 1821) On board the ship, but not sailing. South-westerly wind
(20 Nov 1821) Sailing from Portsmouth. Progress slow as winds strong and westerly
(21 Nov 1821) Westerly wind, strong breezes and cloudy
(22 Nov 1821) Anchoring off Weymouth
(23 Nov 1821) 'Being much exhausted by sea sickness'. Going on shore with Edward Sabine. Visiting Portland Rocks [Isle of Portland] in the afternoon, 'to endeavour to procure some plants of the true Euphorbia portlandica'. Not finding it but seeing Iris foetidissima, Oenanthe peucedanoides [unidentified], Juncus maritimus, Elymus geniculatus and Eryngium maritimum
(24 Nov 1821) Visiting small local gardens. Seeing Origanum pseudodictamnus [Origanum dictamnus], Marrubium pseudodictamnus [Ballota pseudodictamnus], Cineraria maritima [Jacobaea maritima] and Medicago arborea
(25 Nov 1821) Going on board
(31 Nov 1821) Asking the commanding officer [Robert Mends, captain of HMS Iphigenia] for a boat to Portland Rocks, 'having plenty of time on my hands'. Seeing plants including Conysa thapsoids [Conyza thapsoides], Glaucium luteum [Glaucium flavum], a curious variety of Rosa spinosissima with oblong red fruit, Euphorbia amygdaloides ('very common') and Silene maritima [Silene uniflora] [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants]
(6 Dec 1821) Sailing from Weymouth. Moderate breezes
(7 Dec 1821) Strong southerly breezes with squalls
(14 Dec 1821) Westerly winds. 'Returned in latitude 44.43 longitude 10.58 west'
(19 Dec 1821) Anchoring in Torbay
(20 Dec 1821) Going on shore at Brixham. Edward Sabine visiting Teignmouth
(21 Dec 1821) Going out in the morning to see the countryside. Seeing Cotyledon umbilicus [Umbilicus rupestris] 'with leaves sometimes as large as a twopenny piece', Rubia peregrina, Rubia tinctoria [Rubia tinctorum], and between Upper and Lower Brixham, Cistus guttatus [Tuberaria guttata]
(24 Dec 1821) Winds changing to more favourable east-north-easterly. The ship preparing to sail. Staying on shore to wait for the last boat with some prisoners[?] and officers, but having difficulties boarding the ship due to the gale and surf, 'almost swamped in the attempt'. The commodore [Robert Mends] sailing without the party due to the dangerous conditions. Don and the party returning to the inn to dry their clothes
(25 Dec 1821) Leaving Brixham in the direction of Plymouth, hoping to find the ship. Taking a boat to Dartmouth, six miles away, and hiring a pilot boat to Plymouth: 'hoisted our small boat on board her and put to sea'
(26 Dec 1821) Arriving at Plymouth at 4am. After going on shore for breakfast, the officers informing the admiral of the situation. The admiral sending the party on board the Pygmy schooner [HMS Pigmy] to search for the Iphigenia 'which he heard was at Plymouth'
(27 Dec 1821) Hearing that the ship had returned to Torbay
(29 Dec 1821) On board the HMS Pigmy. Due to high winds the commander [Thomas Hills, commander of HMS Pigmy] refusing to sail. Don and one of the midshipmen 'who is now dead', deciding to walk to Torbay, 32 miles away. Due to the rain, spending the night in Totnes, 24 miles from Plymouth
(30 Dec 1821) Hiring a car [carriage] to Torbay from Totnes. Hiring a boat to go on board the ship
(31 Dec 1821) Sailing from Torbay. Seeing HMS Pigmy at a distance. The rest of the officers and prisoners[?] joining the ship. North-westerly wind
(1 Jan 1822) Slow sailing, the south-westerly winds still against them. Anchoring in Plymouth
(2 Jan 1822) Saluting the admiral. Going on shore in the afternoon. Raining all evening
(3 Jan 1822) On board the ship
(4 Jan 1822) Sailing from Torbay with a more favourable north-easterly wind
(11 Jan 1822) Arriving at Funchal, Madeira [Portugal]. Saluting the governor [Rodrigo Antonio de Melo, Portuguese governor of Madeira]. Landing at Funchal with Mr Viech [Henry Veitch, British consul in Funchal, Madeira, travelling on the ship], Edward Sabine and some of the officers. Passing through the Custom House. Staying at Veitch's house.
Visiting his garden in the afternoon. Not seeing much, it being a wet mid-winter day. Seeing in the garden esculent [edible] vegetables and other plants, including Mangifera indica, Musa paradisiaca and Musa sapientum ('cultivated extensively in all the small gardens here'), Nerium oleander, large trees of Dracaena draco and Erythrina speciosa, 'among many other curious plants, but these being neither flower nor fruit I could not ascertain what they were' [here the journal includes a list of approximately 25 more plants]
Returning through the town: 'the streets are very narrow and confined, which in my opinion must render it very unwholesome'
(12 Jan 1822) Visiting Palmara [Madeira], a mile away, to see Mr Blackburn's [Henry Blackburn, merchant in Madeira] gardens, 'an opulent merchant and who was a passenger on board the Iphigenia [HMS Iphigenia]'. Admiring the gardens with fine groves of orange, lemon, guava, plantations of coffee, sugar cane, 'and, I believe, the finest vineyards'. Seeing plants including Sempervivum canariense [Aeonium canariense], Aloe barbadensis, several varieties of Opuntia, Ruta pinnata and Globularia longifolia [here the journal includes a list of approximately 10 more plants]. Collecting specimens of ferns
(13 Jan 1822) Visiting Peak of Ruivo [Pico Ruivo, Madeira] on horseback with Edward Sabine, Captain Clevering [Douglas Charles Clavering, captain of HMS Pheasant], Robert Mends, Mr Whitlaw [Robert Whitelaw, surgeon on HMS Iphigenia], Henry Blackburn and Smith [John Smith, Edward Sabine's assistant]. Seeing plants including Arum esculentum [Colocasia esculenta] ('which goes under the name of yams by the natives'), Erica arborea ('an immense size, some of them 6 feet in circumference'), sweet chestnut, and 'at the height of 4,000 feet I saw a small peak covered with Sempervivum tabulare [Aeonium tabuliforme] and Lycopodium denticulatum [Selaginella denticulata]' [here the journal includes a list of approximately 10 more plants]
The narrative is interrupted here by a three-page copy of a letter [to Joseph Sabine], written on 14 Jan 1822 [the letter is erroneously dated 1823. For the original letter from George Don to Joseph Sabine, 14 Jan 1822, see RHS/Col/2/4/7], beginning 'Sir, you have no doubt heard of our long tossing about the channel, the many ports we were obliged to put in to and the way I was left behind at Torbay', summarising the journey after arrival at Madeira. Includes a list of 75 plants, repeating those in the journal entries; ends with apologies for not being able to do much for the Society at Madeira 'and I am informed that we shall not touch at Teneriffe [Tenerife, Canary Islands] at all as Robert Mends is anxious to get to the coast, where I hope I shall be able to make amends for the time we have been at sea'. The narrative resumes with a continuation of the entry of 13 Jan
(13 Jan 1822, continued) Returning to the valley being unable to continue up the mountain on horseback. Edward Sabine, 'not being perfectly satisfied with the observations he made here', climbing to the peak with Robert Whitelaw. Don and the rest of the party returning down. The forests at 5,000 feet covered with plants including Laurus indica, Ilex perado, Sideroxylon inerme, Clethra arborea and Salix canariensis [here the journal includes a list of 4 more plants]. The valleys filled with several species of Laurus, and the mountains covered with Spartium scoparium and Pteris aquilina [Pteridium aquilinium]. 'The country here is beautiful far beyond description'. Stopping under trees by a rivulet to wait for Sabine and Whitelaw and 'to refresh ourselves with what victuals we had brought with us'. Returning to Funchal at midnight with Sabine
(14 Jan 1822) Writing a letter [for the original letter from George Don to Joseph Sabine, 14 Jan 1822, see RHS/Col/2/4/7]. Preparing for sailing
(15 Jan 1822) Sailing from Funchal
(17 Jan 1822) Anchoring off Santa Cruz, Teneriffe [Tenerife]: 'this island is similar in appearance to Madeira, but the town is much cleaner and the streets much wider'. The mountains covered in plants including Euphorbia piscatoria, Agave americana, Lavandula pinnata, Lappago racemosa and Opuntia decumanus [Opuntia maxima], 'the same as Mr Anderson [unidentified] received from Mexico to a great size' [here the journal includes a list of approximately 20 more plants]. Temperature 69°
A gun fired at 3pm as a signal from the ship for everyone to board, 'so we had to be as expeditious as possible in getting our things ready'. Sailing from Santa Cruz
(18 Jan 1822) Still in sight of Teneriffe [Tenerife]. The weather calm and hazy
(24 Jan 1822) Sight of the Cape de Verd Islands [Cabo Verde]. Seeing the mountainous islands of St Antonio [Santo Antao, Cabo Verde] and St Vincent [Sao Vicente, Cabo Verde]. Seeing a ship in a bay 'which they supposed to be a slave vessel but on sending a boat it was found to be an American South Sea whaler'. Seeing flying fish for the first time
(25 Jan 1822) Passing the island of Fuego [Fogo, Cabo Verde] to the west and St Jago [Santiago, Cabo Verde] to the east
(26 Jan 1822) Anchoring off Porto Praya [Praia, Santiago]. Landing with Edward Sabine in the valley of La Trinidad [Trindade, Santiago]. Seeing Phoenix dactylifera and Gossypium arboretum, 'yielding the finest cotton I ever saw'. The island dry with nothing green apart from some coconut trees. Spending the few hours on the island seeing plants including Lotus jacobaeous, Cassia occidentalis [Senna occidentalis], Aloe barbadense ('in flower which has a beautiful appearance'), Physalis somnifera [Withania somnifera] and Asclepias gigantea [Calotropis gigantea] [here the journal includes a list of approximately 10 more plants]. Collecting seeds and specimens
The town 'a row or two of most miserable huts thatched with date palm leaves'. John Smith shooting birds, including a curious owl. Arranging the collected specimens on board
(27 Jan 1822) Going on shore before daybreak with a fishing party, the fishermen catching 'innumerable quantities of fish'. Don climbing in nearby mountains. Seeing groves of Jatropha curcas. The mountains barren and dry: 'every vegetable here was entirely scorched up'. The hill and the valley covered with Polypogon, various species of Sida, Cardiospermum, various species of Convolvulus and Ipomea [Ipomoea] in flower, 'which was the only green vegetable I saw'. Returning on board at 9am. Going back on shore to collect insects. Going on board with Robert Mends in the evening
(28 Jan 1822) Sailing from St Jago [Santiago, Cabo Verde]
(31 Jan 1822) Seeing the coast of Africa, low and covered with trees. Edward Sabine going on shore on the island of Goree [Goree, Senegal]. Saluting the port. French officers from nearby vessels visiting on board. Sabine bringing back specimens of Argemone mexicana, 'the only vegetable that he saw on the island with the exception of a few cocoa nut [coconut] trees'. The island reminding Don of Inchkeith in Scotland, 'if it had been destitute of houses'. In the evening, sailing towards the Gambia River [Guinea, Senegal and The Gambia]
(1 Feb 1822) Anchoring off the Gambia River. Sending a boat up the river to the colony of Bathurst St Mary's [Banjul, The Gambia]: 'I intended going with it but the distance being so great that it would have been impossible for me to have got on shore'. Edward Sabine and some officers visiting Bird Island [Ile des Oiseaux, off Senegal], 'but the boat being so full I could not get a seat in it'. Sabine bringing back specimens 'but there were none of them particularly curious'
(2 Feb 1822) Sailing to St Mary Bathurst [Banjul]. The country low and covered with mangroves
(3 Feb 1822) Visiting the shore. The country and vegetation dry and parched. Seeing plants including Rhisaphora [Rhizophora], Avicennia africana, Celtis, 'perhaps orientalis [Celtis orientalis] but they were neither in flower nor fruit', Adamsonia, and a species of Coccoloba. Close to the river seeing plenty of large flowering Ipomoea, date palms, Plumbago zeylanica, Capparis floribunda, Dodonoea and many curious graminae [Gramineae]
(4 Feb 1822) Arranging specimens collected the previous day. Visiting the shore in the afternoon to see the small gardens in the colony. Seeing Convolvulus batatas [Ipomoea batatas], Musa paradisiaca, Musa sapientum, Hibiscus esculentus [Abelmoschus esculentus], Arachis hypogaea and Phaseolus caracalla [Cochliasanthus caracalla], 'but I understand they cultivate several of the English culinary plants such as radishes and others that come quick to perfection'. Seeing a beautiful Soranthus with scarlet flowers and Typha angustifolia outside the town
Seeing for the first time the process of extracting wine from the Elais guineensis [Elaeis guineensis] and 'the beating of the bangees, a musical instrument which is the principal amusement of the natives'. John Smith shooting birds
Hiring a canoe with Edward Sabine and Smith to return on board the ship, 'but the current of the river was so very strong and our canoe man so weak, we were drifting fast down the river, which obliged us to hail the ship for a boat which was sent and we got on board'
(5 Feb 1822) Arranging specimens and seeds. Sailing. Anchoring. Sailing again
(6 Feb 1822) Anchoring opposite Cape Roxo [Guinea-Bissau and Senegal]. Sending a boat to the shore, 'but as soon as the boat landed they were overpowered by the natives armed with bows and arrows which obliged the boat's crew to retreat'. In the evening sending three manned and armed boats along the Rio Grande river [Rio Grande de Buba, Guinea-Bissau] in search of 'slave vessels'
(8 Feb 1822) Sailing towards Rio Grande [Rio Grande de Buba, Guinea-Bissau]
(12 Feb 1822) Running aground near Cape Verga [Cap Verga, Guinea] in the morning. The tide clearing the ship
(15 Feb 1822) Boats sent on 6 Feb returning at 2am with news of a 'slave vessel' under Portuguese protection. Sending the boats back to capture the vessel
(16 Feb 1822) Sailing for Sierra Leone
(18 Feb 1822) Anchoring off Freetown, Sierra Leone
(19 Feb 1822) Going on shore to find lodgings, but 'did not succeed as there is no possibility of getting any thing like lodgings here without paying a most immoderate sum for them'. Not finding the governor [Charles MacCarthy, British governor of Sierra Leone] at home
(20 Feb 1822) Charles MacCarthy returning
(21 Feb 1822) Going on shore 'to see how I was to be situated'. Finding that Charles MacCarthy and Edward Sabine had agreed that Don would be sent to the governor's farm. Being introduced to MacCarthy by Sabine. Packing boxes on board
(22 Feb 1822) Bringing boxes on shore in the morning. Having to wait for Charles MacCarthy and Edward Sabine to return from an outing. MacCarthy lending Don a mule to carry him up the hill to the farm. Seeing plants including wild pineapples, a species of Bombax ('perhaps pentandria' [Ceiba pentandra]), yellow plums, Spondias, 'beautiful trees of Afzelia?', Costus and Ammonum Afzelii [Amomum afzelii] ('common'). Seeing among English vegetables and 'native culinary plants' in the garden ('an acre of ground cultivated') at the farm 'a curious species of Hibiscus which they use in the place of sorrel', large fields of cassava (Jatropha manichot) [Manihot esculenta], clerodendron with clusters of scarlet flowers, another species with white flowers, and 'an excellent fruit Tonsella […] a plant belonging to the natural order Hippocraticia [Hippocratea]' and one or two species of Epidendrum
(23 Feb 1822) Being kept awake by 'the howling of wild animals and with mosquitoes'. Hiring two 'Kroo men [Krumen] to travel with me and carry whatever I should find'
(24 Feb 1822) Visiting White Man's Bay [Sierra Leone], near Freetown [Sierra Leone]. Seeing large Bombax trees, a 'curious sensitive mimosa' and plentiful pineapples. Sleeping in the barracks [at Fort Thornton, Freetown, Sierra Leone]
(25 Feb 1822) Getting up early to return to the governor's farm, 'but the morning being so close and the hill being so steep which I had to climb to reach the farm that I was much fatigued before I reached it'. In the afternoon, at a rivulet, finding some curious plants including Epidendrum, Costus afer and Zingiber. Preserving them in spirits
(26 Feb 1822) Collecting fern specimens. Climbing in nearby mountains. Finding on the summit a small farm owned by an old woman, a Nova Scotian settler [Sierra Leone settlers; former enslaved people and free African Americans who founded Freetown, Sierra Leone], 'the only one I believe now remaining in the colony'. Seeing in her fields cassava, sweet potatoes and pineapples ('from which she makes a very pleasant kind of wine'), rough-skinned plum (Parinarium) [Parinari excelsa] and Maranta arundinacea. Seeing in the small garden rosemary, thyme and fennel. On the way back seeing several species of Passiflora, Modecca and cotton
(27 Feb 1822) Being busily employed in finding trees with Epidendrum on them. Finding a beautiful plant 'resembling our fine Neottia'. Seeing several baboons or chimpanzees for the first time
(28 Feb 1822) Going to Regent Town [Regent, Sierra Leone]. The road there very good. The country covered in large trees, including a beautiful mimosa and large Combretum trees ('perhaps racemosum [Combretum racemosum]'). Returning 'much fatigued'
(1 Mar 1822) 'Herbalising' by the side of a brook between Freetown and the governor's farm. Seeing for the first time 'the country cherry of the natives, a tree belonging to the order Terebintaceae', the fruit not ripe, the tree about 40 feet high with several species of Epidendrum on it. Acrostichum stemarium [Achrosticum stemaria] very common on the tops of the largest trees
(2 Mar 1822) Collecting specimens down the river
(3 Mar 1822) Visiting Freetown [Sierra Leone] to try to find seeds of the red water tree. Finding the tree in the middle of the street neither in fruit nor flower. Collecting seeds along the river, including two 'singular' species of Rhexia. Seeing plenty of pineapples. The largest trees the country plum and Bombax pentandre [Ceiba pentandra]
(4 Mar 1822) Going along a valley south-west of Freetown [Sierra Leone] at daybreak. Being 'fortunate in meeting with many curious plants beside a rivulet, but this place was so infested with snakes which rendered it dangerous'. Seeing a yellow and a green snake. Seeing the butter and tallow tree in fruit and the sweet and sour piscimmon [pishamin] ('both excellent fruits'). Gathering bulbs of 'a liliaceous plant, perhaps an Albuca, a curious species of Caladium'. Returning 'before dark, much fatigued with my day's journey'
(5 Mar 1822) Feeling 'a little feverish' in the morning. Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] to enquire after Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus], 'but could gain no information about it from Dr Nicoll [Andrew Nicoll, medical officer in Sierra Leone] who is one of the most intelligent persons in the colony'. Finding information concerning the butter and tallow tree and other esculent and medicinal plants. Collecting specimens of black plum resembling a horse chestnut tree, growing in one of the streets
(6 Mar 1822) Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] to have breakfast with Andrew Nicoll. Setting out with Dr Barry [William Barry, deputy inspector of hospitals in Sierra Leone] for Congo Town [Sierra Leone]. Seeing on the way many plants in flower, but few in seed, including many varieties of Sansaberia guiniensis [Sansevieria hyacinthoides] 'which tends to confound the many species which Mr Haworth [Adrian Hardy Haworth, botanist and entomologist] has described'. Finding on the return journey a beautiful species of Combretum with scarlet flowers and white floral leaves. Returning in the afternoon and dining at Nicoll's, 'after which Dr N. proposed going out in the morning early, so I was prevailed upon to stop all night'
(7 Mar 1822) In the morning Andrew Nicoll feverish and unable to go out. Don going to Krootown [Kroo Bay, Sierra Leone] before breakfast to find Bombax seeds, but not finding ripe ones. Seeing a beautiful octandrious plant with scarlet flowers ('Combretum species?'). Returning for breakfast and meeting Edward Sabine. A ship due to sail to England the following day 'when I might send any boxes which I had'
Riding on horseback to Gloucester Town [Gloucester, Sierra Leone] and Liester Hill [Leicester, Sierra Leone] with William Barry, seven or eight miles away. Visiting on the way the 'Hospital for the Captured Negroes [later renamed the Sierra Leone Psychiatric Hospital] where there were many of the people from the vessel which the Iphigenia [HMS Iphigenia] boats had taken (a few days before) in a most miserable condition'. Finding near the hospital a beautiful tree with bell shaped flowers, probably belonging to the natural order Gentiana. Describing the country as rugged, 'but there is a beautiful species of Combretum, very common, which has a glorious effect'. Returning in the evening. Dining with Nicoll and staying the night
(8 Mar 1822) Returning from Andrew Nicoll's house to the governor's farm at 6am. Preparing specimens for packing
(9 Mar 1822) Packing seeds and specimens. In the afternoon planting a box of Epidendrum. Collecting specimens of guinea pepper and sugar plum
(10 Mar 1822) Preparing seeds for packing
(11 Mar 1822) Packing two boxes, of specimens and seeds
(12 Mar 1822) Sending three boxes to Edward Sabine to put them on board the James, a brig sailing to England via Gambia. Searching for Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus] but not finding it. Seeing orange plants and an interesting species of Gardenia
Listing plants in the boxes, including a box of Epidendrum 'among which there are many curious ones', planted seeds including Elais guinensis [Elaeis guineensis] or oil palm ('the only palm in the neighbourhood'), Sterculia acuminata [Cola acuminata], Anacardium occidentale or cashew apple [cashew], fruits of the butter and tallow tree, 'a box of seeds collected in various ports that I landed at but generally collected at Sierra Leone' and a box of specimens [for another version of the list by George Don, 12 Mar 1822, see RHS/Col/2/3/1]
(13 Mar 1822) Searching for the fruits of country cherry and sugar plum, succeeding in finding ripe fruit of both. Planting two curious scitamineous plants
(14 Mar 1822) Going down the valley near the chief justice's [Edward Fitzgerald, British chief justice in Sierra Leone] farm. Seeing a curious species of fern growing along with Acrostichum stemaria on a large tree of Parinarium
(15 Mar 1822) Planting a box to send to England. Going to Mr Macauly's [Kenneth Macaulay, merchant and colonial official in Sierra Leone] farm three miles away, to see a tree of African mammee apple, 'but the distance was so great that I could not reach it that night'. Seeing a strange broad-leaved Bambusa. Returning an hour after dark
(16 Mar 1822) Going about eight miles west of Freetown [Sierra Leone]. Searching for young cola plants (Sterculia acuminata) [Cola acuminata], but finding none small enough. Seeing on the roadsides Cecropia, sugar plum, rough-skinned plum ('Parinarium species') and Bombax 'to an immense size'. Returning at 8pm 'much fatigued'
(17 Mar 1822) Preparing specimens and seeds for packing
(18 Mar 1822) Catching a few curious Lepidopleurus insects. Discarding insects that had been destroyed by ants. Edward Sabine sending a note saying that Captain Finlayson [William Finlaison, captain of HMS Morgiana] intended to sail to London the following day. Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] for boxes
(19 Mar 1822) Packing three boxes, one containing living plants, the second seeds and the third fruits. Sending them to Edward Sabine to put on board
Listing and numbering the plants in the boxes, the living plants including 'a strange sort of pepper growing in the loftiest trees', 'a very curious Orchidus plant, perhaps a species of Neottia', 'Aletris or Dracaena: a parasite here although there is no doubt but you will be able to grow it in a flower pot', 'rough-skinned or grey plum of the inhabitants, commonly sold in the markets' and 'a beautiful long-leaved tree' [here the journal includes a list of 18 more plants. For another version of the list, 19 Mar 1822, see RHS/Col/2/3/2]
Listing and numbering the fruits, contained in three bottles and a 'small bottle', including 'a most excellent wild fruit of the Tonsella species, the flavour of which I can compare to nothing but the finest sugar', seeds of 'a very hot species of Amomum', 'peach of the inhabitants', cola, and 'a curious species of Cucumis which I gathered at Porto Praya St Jago, Cape de Verde [Praia, Santiago, Cabo Verde]' [here the journal includes a list of 15 more fruits. For another version of the list, 19 Mar 1822, see RHS/Col/2/3/3]
(20 Mar 1822) Cutting down trees that had Epidendrum on them. Finding two he had not seen before
(21 Mar 1822) Going to Synal Hill [Signal Hill, Sierra Leone]. Catching several Lepidopleris [Lepidopleurus] insects on the way. Finding a beautiful species of Combretum with umbels of fine scarlet flowers, bearing a ripe seed. Seeing another species of Combretum in the clear and barren plains, with a habit 'very different to any other species of this genus, but the seed vessel exactly agreeing with the rest'. Finding a beautiful shrub resembling Persian lilac, 'and also having the same scent, belonging to the same class and order (Dialium guineensis [Dialium guineense])'. The roadside near the top of the hill covered with a beautiful species of Ipomoea. Collecting Epidendrum. Seeing Spathodia laevis [Newbouldia laevis] and Xylopia undulata [Monodora undulata]. Returning in the evening 'famished with hunger and rather feverish with a great difficulty in breathing'
(22 Mar 1822) In the morning, visiting a hill five or six miles south of Freetown [Sierra Leone] to see the mammee apple, but the tree too high to ascertain the form of the leaves. Seeing three species of Passiflora, none of them in flower but one resembling Passiflora quadrangularis. Seeing a species of Melastoma he had not seen before, 'which now makes the 6th species I have found here'. Seeing for the first time Glycine subterrania [Vigna subterranea], cultivated and the seed used as a pulse. Seeing a large tree with platanous shaped leaf, 'which the natives call the pomegranate', and described as an excellent fruit. Seeing two species of Epidendrum
(23 Mar 1822) Going to Kessey Town [Kissy, Sierra Leone], three miles from Freetown [Sierra Leone], 'but a distance of five miles for me as living at the governor's farm'. Seeing a fine species of Bletia or Cyrtopodium. Taking up roots. Seeing for the first time fruit of the monkey apple, about the size of a dove's egg, oval shaped and reddish, with flavour 'between nectarine and plum'. Seeing some 'strange' Epidendrum growing on stones by a riverside. Seeing Eulophia guineensis growing at the base of the trees. Collecting all these Epidendrum and returning in the evening 'well loaded'
(24 Mar 1822) Seeing deer feeding in the governor's garden: 'they seemed to be rather tame as I got as near them as a hundred yards'. After breakfast, going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] to order a box for living plants. Going to look for young plants of monkey bread trees in the garden of Mr Kennedy ('a sort of merchant in the town'), but finding none. 'The sky this evening from appearance threatening a tornado, I hurried home as quick as possible'
(25 Mar 1822) Looking through specimens. Laying aside dried ones. Collecting Lepidopleurus insects
(26 Mar 1822) Numbered list of the esculent vegetables of Sierra Leone [for another version of the list, c.Mar-Apr 1822, see RHS/Col/2/3/6]. Noting seeds, specimens and fruit sent. The list including country grapes ('very small, growing in corymbs, taste somewhat bitter'), oranges ('not so large nor yet so well flavoured as those of St Jago [Santiago, Cabo Verde], which were the best I ever saw or tasted'), 'rose apple (Eugenia jambos?) [Syzygium jambos]' ('cultivated near gentlemen's houses'), 'locust tree of the inhabitants (Inga globosa) [?Parkia biglobosa]' ('the inhabitants are very fond of it, they eat the yellow farinaceous substance which is about the seeds, which is in taste the same as gingerbread') and Capsicum ('three sorts') [here the journal includes a list of 25 more fruits]. Noting that 'there are several other fruits but it is not exactly the season for them. I have sent one or two which the inhabitants are very fond of but could not ascertain the name of them'
Numbered list of nuts: cocoa nuts (Cocos nucifera) [coconut], dates (Phoenix dactylifera) and oil palm (Elais guineensis) [Elaeis guineensis]
List of seeds: cola (Sterculia acuminata) [Cola acuminata] and coffee ('of two sorts'), both native to Sierra Leone
Numbered list of roots, including 'country potatoes' ('I have never seen the plant but understand the leaves resemble balm'), 'bush yam of the inhabitants' ('this is a very large root but is not so good as the common yam'), cocoa ('closely related to Arum, the roots of this are excellent, when roasted tastes somewhat like a hazelnut, leaves used as greens'), shallots ('very small, resembling chives') and sweet potatoes or Convolvulus batatas [Ipomoea batatas] ('cultivated to a great extent') [here the journal includes a list of 8 more roots]
Numbered list of pods: 'okroes [okra], Hibiscus [Hibiscus esculentus]', 'kenii kering or palaver sauce plant' ('it is used the same way as okroes'), Phaseolus ('two sorts, the one called horse bean, the other I have had no name for'), pigeon peas (Cytisus cajan) [Cajanus cajan] ('commonly cultivated'), 'red tree of the inhabitants (Bixa purpurea) [Bixa orellana]' and Crotalaria ('two sorts')
Numbered list of grains: rice, 'two sorts of millet', guinea corn [sorghum] and sugar cane
(27 Mar 1822) Going to Wellington Town [Wellington, Sierra Leone], three miles beyond Kesey Town [Kissy, Sierra Leone]. Collecting seeds of a beautiful Cainito [Chrysophyllum cainito] and roots of the Bletia or Cyrtopodium, first seen a few days ago
Stopping at a house in Wellington for refreshment. Returning a different way. Seeing a beautiful white variety of Melastoma grandiflora [Rhynchanthera grandiflora], 'which is the plant I have termed Osbeckia'. Finding a large bulb of a Caladium. Returning at 1am
(28 Mar 1822) Arranging the box of insects. Checking specimens to see if they were keeping free of insects
(29 Mar 1822) Going to King Town [Kingtom, Sierra Leone]. Seeing a beautiful species of Combretum different from those seen before, the fifth species of the genus seen in Sierra Leone: 'now I do not know which of them to prefer for beauty'. Seeing a curious species of Limodorum ('Eulophia species?') with green flowers. The most common trees the butter and tallow tree, Christmas bush and monkey apple. Almost getting lost in the thicket due to multiple paths. Finding a canna. Returning after dark
(30 Mar 1822) Packing up seeds and arranging specimens. Collecting insects
(31 Mar 1822) A 'tornado' in the night with thunder and lightning. Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] for packing boxes
(1 Apr 1822) Setting off at 6am on horseback for the Sugar Loaf Mountain [Sierra Leone]. Edward Sabine having discovered two bulbs of Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus] when measuring the height of the mountain. Seeing a curious species of Salvia (Brillantacea) [?Brillantaisia]. In Regent Town [Regent, Sierra Leone] stopping for breakfast with Rev William Johnston [William Johnson, missionary in Sierra Leone], who 'sent me a man as a guide to the top of the mountain'. Seeing trees related to Guiacum officinale [Guaiacum officinale] and to Laurus cassia [Cinnamomum cassia] at the top. Resting for half an hour. Looking for Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus]. Finding an interesting bulb growing among the stones resembling Ixia or Gladiolus, neither in flower nor leaf, and a curious species of Caladium with pinnated leaves and prickly stems
Returning to Johnson's in the afternoon to dine. Returning home at dusk. Beautiful view over the towns on the peninsula and the islands in the river from the top of the mountain. Intending to go to Kent [Sierra Leone] the following day with Mr Laing, 'adjutant of the regiment here' [Alexander Gordon Laing, explorer and captain in the Royal African Colonial Corps]
(2 Apr 1822) Leaving the farm at 6am. Breakfasting with Kenneth Macaulay, a local merchant, and then 'got our things put in the boat and rowed off' with Alexander Gordon Laing, Signor Altavilla [Joao Jacomo Altavilla, judge of the Mixed British and Portuguese Commission at Sierra Leone] and John Smith. Seeing Bombax trees
Arriving at the settlement of York [Sierra Leone], 30 miles from Freetown [Sierra Leone]. Going to Mr Johnston's ('the superintendent of the settlement') house to dine. In the afternoon walking along a beach covered in Sansaveria guineensis [Sansavieria guineensis]. Seeing Hymenaea courbaril growing on small islands
(3 Apr 1822) Alexander Gordon Laing and Joao Jacomo Altavilla leaving the rest of the party to go to Waterloo [Sierra Leone]. Don and John Smith going to Kent [Sierra Leone] 12 miles away. Keeping to the beach covered in Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus]. Collecting 200 bulbs: 'the bulbs are always separate, you never find them joined together as in England'
Arriving at a deep river, and having to strip and cross in the shallowest place, as directed by the locals, immersed up to their necks in water. Arriving in Kent [Sierra Leone] at 9pm, 'where we were very kindly treated by Mr Beckle [Thomas Stuart Buckle, surveyor and engineer in Sierra Leone] the Superintendent'. In the morning sending for the boat
(4 Apr 1822) Wandering in the bush for a few hours in the morning. Collecting seeds of a 'curious' species of Cacoloba [Coccoloba]. John Smith shooting 'two beautiful crows'. Having no time to go to the Island of Bananas [Banana Islands, Sierra Leone], having to be back to wait for the others returning from Waterloo [Sierra Leone]. Arriving in York [Sierra Leone] in the evening. Arranging specimens and seeds. Receiving a letter from Alexander Gordon Laing saying that he and Joao Jacomo Altavilla were not returning to York
(5 Apr 1822) Preparing the boat at 5am. Rowing down the river to collect specimens of a curious species of Caladium. Returning for breakfast. On the return journey to Freetown, visiting small islands covered with Hymenaea courbaril, Sansaveria guineensis [Sansavieria guineensis], Epidendrum in the large trees and Achrostichum stemaria. Seeing a white-flowered climbing Combretum. Being accompanied to the islands by Mr Johnston: 'he shot a beautiful diver'
(6 Apr 1822) Arriving at Freetown [Sierra Leone] at 1am. Discovering that the HMS Pheasant had arrived. Going to the barracks [at Fort Thornton, Freetown, Sierra Leone] to sleep until daybreak. Being told by Edward Sabine to be ready to leave in three days. Leaving the barracks to return to the governor's farm to start packing
(7 Apr 1822) Planting cuttings of Passiflora
(8 Apr 1822) Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] for boxes ordered for Don by Edward Sabine
(9 Apr 1822) Packing up five boxes of living plants, specimens, seeds, bulbs and insects, and a small box of several species of Passiflora. Writing lists of the contents of the boxes. Sending the boxes to Edward Sabine for the ship. Leaving the box of living plants and the box with Passiflora with the governor's gardener, to wait for the ship to sail
Listing and numbering the plants in the box, including 'black plum of the inhabitants, a good fruit', a species of Limodorum, 'Dracoena a beautiful species', a species of Neottia and 'Monkey bread of the inhabitants' [here the journal includes a list of 8 more plants], and 'about 20 different sp [species] of Epidendrum all of which are strangers' [for another version of this list, 10 Apr 1822, see RHS/Col/2/3/4]
Listing and numbering the bulbs in the box, several unnamed but numbered, including 'a strange species of Arum growing near Freetown [Sierra Leone]', 'Albuca? In low lands near Freetown [Sierra Leone], I have never seen it in flower', [an unnamed plant] 'growing near Freetown', 'Gladiolus or Antholyza growing on the top of the Sugar Loaf Mountain, I have never seen it in flower' and [an unnamed plant] 'top of the Sugar Loaf Mountain' [here the journal includes a list of 5 more bulbs. For another version of this list, 10 Apr 1822, see RHS/Col/2/3/5]
(10 Apr 1822) Going to the barracks [at Fort Thornton, Freetown, Sierra Leone] to enquire about the sailing. Being informed by Edward Sabine that the ship would sail early next morning. Returning to the governor's farm 'where I got some men to carry down my boxes to the barracks'. Sleeping in the barracks
(11 Apr 1822) Sailing on HMS Pheasant
(12 Apr 1822) Arranging the cabin
(15 Apr 1822) Seeing Cape Mount [Liberia]
(16 Apr 1822) Seeing the mountains near the river
(17 Apr 1822) 'Off Kroo Ceterach and Ceterach Kroo [Kru country or Kru coast, consisting of various settlements along the west coast of Africa, including Liberia and Sierra Leone]'. Landing 'several Kroomen [Krumen] who were passengers on board'
(18 Apr 1822) 'In the course of the day we have been crowded round with canoes loaded with cassava, guinea pepper, ducks and hens, which they exchanged for tobacco'. Landing 'some Cape Palmas blacks (whom we had on board as passengers) at Cape Palmas [Liberia]'
(21 Apr 1822) Anchoring off Cape Coast [Ghana]
(22 Apr 1822) Going on shore in the afternoon. Looking through the castle [Cape Coast Castle, Ghana]. Going into the bush near the town. Seeing Vinca rosea [Catharanthus roseus], Stachytarpeta jamaicensis, a curious species of cucumber with small prickly fruit, a species of Sida, Tacca 'perhaps pinnatifida [Tacca leontopetaloides], common in marshy places' and many other curious and interesting plants [here the journal includes a list of 2 more plants]
(23 Apr 1822) 'This day I went in a different direction to what I did yesterday'. Seeing a 'curious aquatic plant with cuculate spongy leaves' ('specimens all eaten by the ants (Pistia stratiotes)') and Nymphia lotus [Nymphaea lotus] with beautiful white stellated leaves. In the afternoon, going 'with a man' to collect bulbs of Amaryllis, roots of Tacca and seeds of a curious palm, perhaps an Elaeis
(24 Apr 1822) Going out to shoot birds, 'but walking so much in the sun brought on a headache which lasted till next morning'
(25 Apr 1822) Packing up a small box of Tacca 'perhaps pinnatifida' [Tacca leontopetaloides] and an Amaryllis, 'perhaps ornata' [Crinum ornatum]. 'Governor Smith [John Hope Smith, British governor of Gold Coast] was so good as to send a man to a considerable distance to bring me some fruit of a tree, the fruit of which is called here the Miraculous Berry. If one eats of these berries, everything you taste afterwards, for some hours tastes sweet. It appeared to me to be a species of Grewia [Synsepalum dulcificum]'. Returning on board. Sailing from Cape Coast [Ghana]
(27 Apr 1822) Anchoring off 'English Accra' [Accra, Ghana]. Going on shore in the evening. Dining with Mr Bannerman [?Henry Bannerman, officer and trader in the Royal Africa Company] 'who was very kind'. Lodging at the Fort with Captain Blenkarne [William Henry Blenkarne, captain in the Company of Merchants, commandant of the Royal African Light Infantry in Accra, Ghana]
(28 Apr 1822) At 5am, 'proceeded to Danish Accra' [Accra, Ghana]. Seeing many curious plants, including a small plant related to Aristolochia, 'the roots of which the natives eat raw, and another plant the roots of which they use in the same way', but collecting no specimens. Seeing a strange species of Epidendrum with tuberous roots, palms including a species of Corypha and another related to Elate [Elaeis], Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus], Amaryllis ornata [Crinum ornatum] and a 'strange shrub'. Boats unable to land on the beach due to the surf: 'people are obliged to land in flat-bottomed canoes'. Seeing Monandria monogynia with scarlet flowers
The country beautiful, 'the trees and shrubs are so regularly dispersed that one would from appearance think that they had been planted'. The vegetation less varied than in Sierra Leone 'which accounts for the herbarium of Afzelius [Adam Afzelius, Swedish botanist, who collected specimens in Sierra Leone in the 1790s] being far superior to that of Brass [William Brass, British botanist, who collected specimens in Africa in the 1780s] from Cape Coast'
(29 Apr 1822) Packing tuberous and bulbous roots collected the previous day in the box packed at Cape Coast [Ghana]. In the afternoon, going in a different direction than the day before. Collecting roots of Gloriosa superba. Packing the box and putting it on board a schooner sailing to England
(30 Apr 1822) In the morning 'shot a few birds and collected several seeds', including a curious tree with pinnated leaves and small, red fruit in clusters: 'it is dry and farinaceous but pleasant to the taste', belonging to 'the natural order of Commaracea'. Sailing from Accra [Ghana] in the afternoon. Arranging seeds and specimens
(2 May 1822) Anchoring off Little Popoe [Aneho, Togo]: 'this is a small village surrounded with Elais guineensis [Elaeis guineensis]'
(4 May 1822) Sailing. Anchoring off Widah [Ouidah, Benin]. 'There were four Portuguese vessels lying here, which we suspected to be slave traders, but they had no slaves on board. This place is similar to that of Little Popoe [Aneho, Togo]'
(5 May 1822) Sailing from Widah [Ouidah, Benin]
(8 May 1822) One of the marines dying of fever: 'he was one of those who was on shore at Sierra Leone with Captain Sabine [Edward Sabine]'
(9 May 1822) 'This afternoon a large shark was caught'
(14 May 1822) Passing the north side of the island of St Thomas [Sao Tome, Sao Tome and Principe]. Seeing HMS Iphigenia. The island mountainous and covered in trees, including coconut trees, with some spots destitute of trees and covered with grass
(15 May 1822) Passing Cabretta Island [Cabras Islet, Sao Tome and Principe]. Anchoring off the town of St Ann de Chaves [Ana Chaves Bay, Sao Tome and Principe]
(16 May 1822) Edward Sabine and Douglas Clavering going on shore in the morning. 'Our master [naval officer responsible for navigation] died about 10 o'clock am'. Sabine returning to inform Don 'that there would be a great deal of trouble in getting liberty to travel in the island'
(17 May 1822) Going on shore to the town of St Ann de Chaves [Ana Chaves Bay, Sao Tome and Principe] in the morning. Breakfasting with Mr Fernandez [John Fernandez, British vice-consul and merchant at St Thomas, Sao Tome and Principe], 'a person whom the commodore [Robert Mends] had appointed as British free consul'. Going to see the town. The houses built of wood and the streets 'pretty regular'
Seeing common fruits and culinary plants, including banana, sour sop, pineapple, guava and yams [here the journal includes a list of 10 more fruits and plants]. Seeing in the market place 'a row of a species of Spondias called by the natives oghejee, covered with clusters of ripe fruit which is yellow and about the size of a dove's egg'. The market busy with people buying and selling 'principally the produce of the country'. The most curious fruits for sale being the cola (Sterculia heterophylla) [Sterculia acuminata] and the safu [safou] ('see Brown [Robert Brown, botanist and former librarian at the Linnean Society] on the Congo plants'). Seeing in the town plants including Canna ('a very large species'), Aloe related to barbadensis [Aloe barbadensis], Jatropha curcas, and on the wall of the old convents a strange species of Serratula with blue flowers and a Sonchus [here the journal includes a list of approximately 10 more plants]
Sleeping 'on shore at the house of Don Sacramento [unidentified]'. Describing the people as kind. Noting that 'the town seems to have been in a thriving state at some former period, but now nearly the one half of the houses are falling to pieces for want of repair'
(18 May 1822) Going out to collect seeds. Seeing a species of Verea on the walls of one of the old convents. Being informed by Edward Sabine, having received a letter from the governor [Joao Baptista da Silva, governor of St Thomas], 'that he would not be allowed to land his instruments, and that no person would be allowed to go without the limits of the town, which put an end to our business at present'. Sabine writing a letter to the governor, but not waiting for an answer. Going on board. Sailing for Man of War Bay [?Micolo, Sao Tome and Principe] for wood and water, 'but a tornado came on and obliged us to put to sea'
(19 May 1822) Spending the night at sea due to the tornado. Anchoring in the afternoon at Man of War Bay [?Micolo, Sao Tome and Principe]. Going with Edward Sabine in the evening 'to see a large house which we were told was uninhabited (called the Fish House) but when we reached it found it inhabited by soldiers whom we were of opinion had been sent to prevent Sabine from landing his instruments and making observations'. The coast covered in coconut and oil palm trees and a species of Corypha or Rhaphia. Returning on board in the evening
(20 May 1822) Going on shore in the morning. Travelling about four miles 'in hopes of falling in with something good, but was entirely disappointed'. Seeing nothing in flower except species of Crotalaria, Hedysarum and Convolvulus. Walking difficult due to tall grass and no paths. Seeing large trees of Bombax, Adansonia, and introduced species such as Mangifera indica, Spondias, oghejee 'of the natives' and Tamarindus indica. Seeing plenty of banana, plantain and pineapple, 'which the natives assure me are natives of this island and they have every appearance of being so', but guava, sweet and sour sop apple and papaya had been introduced
Returning on board in the evening 'very much disappointed with my day's excursion as the appearance of the island from the ship promised something more interesting'. Edward Sabine receiving a response to his letter of 18 May, 'saying that they would provide a house for him to make his observations in, but they would not allow me to travel in the island'
(21 May 1822) Going on shore. Walking about three miles 'in a different direction to that which I went yesterday'. Seeing 'Pancratium? a new species I hope', a species of Mirabilis and a curious species of Dioscorea with lobed leaves
(22 May 1822) Edward Sabine securing a house in the middle of the bay called the Fish House for his observations. Going south. Seeing a beautiful tree 100 feet high, 'bearing a fruit about twice the size of a man's head, the seeds of which the inhabitants boil and eat', a beautiful Hernandia and many orange and lime trees in the woods 'now almost in a wild state'. On the return journey, seeing a beautiful tree of Pandanus candelabrum, 120 feet high, 'branching in whorls, four branches in a whorl, divided at the point with several pendulous fruit upon it but were not perfectly ripe'. Seeing Pancratium, mentioned a few days previously, in flower 'which proves to be a brinum with whitish flower'
Having difficulties on the return journey due to there being no paths. Finally reaching the ship, 'but not without getting my seeds, specimens, paper and myself properly wet, owing to the great surf on entering the boat'
(23 May 1822) Seeing for the first time the safu [safou] tree, a large tree with pinnated leaves and black fruit the size of a hen's egg, with a bitter flavour 'when first eaten, but a little afterwards becomes sweet to the taste. They eat the outer covering'. Returning on board
(24 May 1822) Bringing cot and paper to the Fish House 'where I intend stopping as long as the ship remains here'. Going 10 miles south into the country: 'I have been quite in a thicket all this day'. Seeing Pandanus candelabrum and 'plenty of the large fruit I mentioned the day before called jakansii [jackfruit] by the negroes', belonging to the natural order Artocarpus. Seeing many colla trees (Sterculia acuminata and heterophylla) [Cola acuminata, Cola heterophylla] and a large tree with pinnated leaves, 'bearing fruit about the size of a bullace plum which the negroes eat, called by them zansii [Pseudospondias microcarpa]'. Seeing 'great herds' of monkeys. Returning at 9pm
(25 May 1822) Going five miles out but 'met with nothing particular except a species of Arum allied to Arum atropurpureum [?Arisaema triphyllum]'
(26 May 1822) Seeing a fine broad-leaved scittameneous [scitamineous] plant 'which the negroes call manjungu [unidentified]' and some large fruit of the jakansii [jackfruit]. Seeing 'the process of clearing the seeds from the pulpy substance by beating and squeezing in a basket, in a river'. The resulting substance being used like rice: 'in my opinion it is not inferior to rice'. The tree very common on the island, the seeds being sold in the markets of St Anne de Chaves [Ana Chaves Bay, Sao Tome and Principe]
(27 May 1822) Going south-west of the Fish House with 'two marines and one negroe'. Travelling for about three miles in the long grass 'which was very fatiguing'. Seeing nothing in particular, except a species of Cleome. Entering a thicket 'and travelled until we were quite fatigued, particularly by thirst, that we were obliged to chew the leaves of a species of Adiantum'. Seeing four kinds of trees in the forest: Sterculia acuminata or Colla [Cola acuminata], a species of Spondias or 'oghejee of the negroes', a tree similar to Myrtus pimenta [Pimenta dioica], 'but without scent' and 'a very tall straight tree having the appearance of hornbeam called by the negroes valapley [valaple, Turraea vogelii], the fruit of which they eat'. On the return journey, seeing a beautiful shrub covered with white flowers, describing the leaves. Acquiring some coconuts 'and quenched our thirst'. Returning in the evening 'very much fatigued'
(28 May 1822) Going out to search for roots of Crinum: 'dug up about a dozen of roots & two very large bulbs which appeared to be different from the Crinum'. Seeing a large tree of a species of Aletris, 'perhaps arboreum [Dracaena arborea]'
(29 May 1822) Going along the beach to the town of St Anne de Chaves [Ana Chaves Bay, Sao Tome and Principe] 10 miles away. The beach covered with a beautiful species of Ipomoea and Dolichos, common throughout tropical Africa. Seeing many trees of Corypha or Raphia 'which I have ascertained to be dioecious, I have seen trees of both sexes'. Seeing a Cyperus papyrus 10 feet high growing in a rivulet. Close to the town, seeing many trees of Adansonii [Adansonia] in fruit. Returning after dark
(30 May 1822) Going south-west of the Plantation House [Fish House]. Seeing jakansii [jackfruit] growing in a thicket of palm trees by a rivulet. Monkeys appearing to be fond of the seeds: 'I observed innumerable quantities of them flying from every one of these trees as we approached, leaping along their tops with great alacrity'. Observing many strange ferns, including a subarborescent species of Cyathea and a large species of Hemionitis, 'perhaps reticulata' [Antrophyum reticulatum]. Seeing Piperomia, an Acanthacerus [Acanthocereus] and many safu [safou] trees. The country very low and damp. Returning in the evening
(31 May 1822) Going to cut down trees of the Corypha or Raphia in the morning, but 'the wood was so hard that we were not able to pierce an inch into it'. Going to the top of the Convent Hill. The convent surrounded by a species of Ficus related to indica [Ficus drupacea]. After descending, crossing a marsh surrounded by palm trees, mainly Elais guineensis [Elaeis guineensis]. Seeing Jussieua [Jussiaea] and two species of Persicaria
(1 Jun 1822) Catching a crayfish in a nearby river in the morning, Edward Sabine believing it to be a new species. Seeing two species of Jussiaea and a curious species of Convolvulus. In the afternoon, going eight miles out to the mountains. Seeing a fine species of Laurus, 'resembling L. cinnamomum [Cinnamomum verum] but without scent'. Seeing numerous monkeys. Seeing plenty of Tragia pedunculata [Tragia volubilis] and 'an immense number' of parakeets on the return journey
(2 Jun 1822) Staying indoors due to chest pain
(3 Jun 1822) Setting out towards the east with two sailors. Travelling several miles in the forest. Crossing the first range of mountains. Arriving at plantations of banana, plantain, cassava, safu [safou], jakansii [jackfruit], Bombax, guava, lime, orange, mango and pomegranate. Seeing on the return journey a strange species of Costus, 12 feet high with scarlet flowers, and a curious bulbous plant with round plicated leaves, not in flower
(4 Jun 1822) Collecting fruit of 'piacella of the negroes' (Pandanus candelabrum) and seeds of jakansii [jackfruit], colla [cola], safu [safou], oghigee, noontwey, a Chrysophyllum species and pasco [?mata-passo, Pentadesma butyracea] ('a tree resembling safu [safou]'). Collecting juice of cassa [cassia]
(5 Jun 1822) Succeeding in finding fruit of Corypha or Raphia. Collecting young plants of Pandanus candelabrum
(6 Jun 1822) Searching for cinnamon, 'which I understand from the natives is in a wild state and is called by them canella'. Hiring a guide. Setting out in the morning towards the east, walking at a rate of four miles an hour. Crossing several mountains. Seeing trees in the forest including Laurus, Cassytha, Sterculia acuminata [Cola acuminata], Sterculia heterophylla, jakansii [jackfruit], valapley [valaple, Turraea vogelii], mienda [unidentified] and noontwey, a species of Chrysophyllum. Seeing several cinnamon trees, probably 'imported from Brazil, and likely to be Laurus cinnamomoides [Acrodiclidium cinnamomoides]'. Collecting a few young plants of cinnamon. On the return journey seeing a curious species of Bannisteria [Banisteria] and the Christmas bush of Sierra Leone
(7 Jun 1822) Collecting more juice of cassa [cassia]. Seeing nothing worth mentioning except the Musango [Musanga] of the natives, a species of Ficus related to indica [Ficus drupacea]
(8 Jun 1822) In the morning, setting out for the Peak of St Thomas [Pico de Sao Tome, Sao Tome and Principe] with 'a marine [and] three blacks', but 'we had not gone many miles before the blacks left us'. Continuing with the sailor
Breakfasting at the Ville de Guadaloupe [Guadalupe, Sao Tome, Sao Tome and Principe], a small village of 20 houses. In the afternoon, being unable to reach the peak due to the thick forest. The forest composed of the same trees as that of the lower part of the island, including Sterculia acuminata [Cola acuminata], Pandanus candelabrum, safu [safou], Adansonia and Bombax [here the journal includes a list of 10 more trees]. Seeing a beautiful species of Celosia related to Castrensis [Celosia argentea]'. Seeing numerous monkeys. Passing plantations with coffee, cassava, banana, plantain, papaw [papaya], orange, lime, mango etc. Returning late in the evening 'much fatigued'. Not seeing any orchids except one 'which from the leaves appears to be a Serapias'
(9 Jun 1822) Preparing specimens and seeds for packing
(10 Jun 1822) Planting two boxes of living plants. Packing one box of seeds and specimens, one of bulbs with fruit of Pandanus candelabrum, one matted parcel containing a branch of Pandanus and two bundles of the fruit of Corypha
(11 Jun 1822) Setting out in the morning in a boat for St Anne de Chaves [Ana Chaves Bay, Sao Tome and Principe] nine miles away, with four boxes and the matted parcel. One box containing living plants, the second seeds and specimens, the third bulbs, the fourth belonging to Edward Sabine containing birds, and the matted parcel containing a branch of Pandanus and two bundles of the fruit of Corypha [for the original list by George Don, c.Jun 1822, see RHS/Col/2/3/7]. Delivering them to Mr Fernandez [John Fernandez, vice consul at St Thomas, merchant] 'who is acting as British vice consul and who is to take them home in his ship the Eclipse [a merchant ship]'. 'Got all the rest of my things on board'. Sailing from St Thomas [Sao Tome, Sao Tome and Principe]
Listing and numbering the live plants sent from the island, including valapley [valaple, Turraea vogelii] ('a very common tree in the forests, I understand the fruit is very good'), 'an orchideous plant having the habit of Serapias', 'Amomum with scarlet flowers', 'Sterculia acuminata [Cola acuminata], the cola' and 'noontwey' ('this tree grows in the forests, it has the appearance of Chrysophyllum, the fruit is eaten by the natives, it yields milk like a Euphorbia, and belongs to the order Pentandria monogynia') [here the journal includes a list of 11 more plants]
Listing and numbering the bulbs in the box 'and a few seeds without being numbered', including fruit of Pandanus candelabrum, 'two large bulbs which I suppose distinct from the small ones, I have not seen the flower', 'smaller bulbs which I suppose to be Amaryllis gigantea, the flower of these are cream coloured', Aloe and fruit of 'a common cucurbitaceous plant'. Noting that the seeds in box 3 are all from the island of St Thomas [Sao Tome, Sao Tome and Principe] 'except those that are marked from other places' [for another version of the lists, c.Jun 1822, see RHS/Col/2/3/7]
(14 Jun 1822) 'Seized with a violent fever'
(25 Jun 1822) Anchoring off Ascension Island [British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha]. 'I am now recovering, the marines who were on shore with me all died in the time of my illness'
(6 Jul 1822) Recovering: 'I have been able to walk a little these four days past and am getting stouter every day'. Being offered a mule by one of the officers on shore to go to the top of the Green Mountain to the gardens 'where there is a Lieutenant of Marines stationed'. The road to the mountain being good and level for the first four miles, 'but the last three or four miles is almost perpendicular'
For the first four miles, seeing nothing but Portulacea oleracea [Portulaca oleracea], used like spinach and considered good, and a species of Euphorbia. Seeing purslane growing on the mountain with a species of Sonchus related to oleracea [Sonchus oleraceus] 'and perhaps not different, it is very dwarf, but that may be owing to the soil being nothing more than decomposed lava'
Listing and numbering the plants seen on the mountain, including 'Spermacocea species, a beautiful little plant with white flowers', 'Polycarpia tetraphylla [Polycarpon tetraphyllum], very common', 'Physalis pubescens, called gooseberries by the people and are used by them, they make excellent tarts of them', 'Hibiscus species, beautiful, called by the people St Helena Rock', 'Asplenum, two species, with several Gramine [Gramineae] and lichens but very few mosses' [here the journal includes a list of 13 more plants]
Listing and numbering the plants growing in the gardens which have been introduced from St Helena [Saint Helena, British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha], including Melia azedarach, Guilandina bonduc, Agave angustifolia, Recinus [Ricinus] species, Mesembryanthemum edule [Carpobrotus edulis], Narcissus and a species of Crotalaria. The kitchen garden 'is laid out in very good style', growing many culinary plants including greens, cabbages, leeks, carrots and lettuces. Collecting specimens on the return journey. Returning at 7pm
(8 Jul 1822) 'Return of the fever almost as severe as ever'
(9 Jul 1822) Sailing from Ascension Island [British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha]
(18 Jul 1822) 'After a very favourable passage', anchoring at Bahia St Salvador [Salvador, Brazil]: 'there is a great quantity of shipping in the bay [and] the town has a beautiful appearance from the harbour'. The inhabitants expecting 'a fleet of the Independents here every day which has put them in great consternation [referring to the Siege of Salvador during the Brazilian War of Independence]'. Recovering fast from the fever
(20 Jul 1822) Going on shore to see the town. The houses irregularly placed, some four to six storeys high, all whitewashed 'which has a beautiful appearance particularly that part of the town facing the bay'. The town in 'great confusion', preparing for a battle and digging out entrenchments
Seeing for the first time Artocarpus incisa [Artocarpus altilis], Mangifera indica, Eugenia jambos [Syzygium jambos] and hedges of Eugenia in a pleasure ground at the south-west end of the town. Seeing rows of a species of Ficus, called umbrella tree in Accra [Ghana], in the streets in the middle of the town
(21 Jul 1822) The fever returning, 'much slighter than before, but these attacks after a little fatigue make me now rather cautious in venturing on shore'
(27 Jul 1822) Going to 'the English Consul's [William Pennell, British consul in Bahia, Brazil]' to see Edward Sabine. Seeing in Pennell's garden plenty of Mangifera indica, Artocarpus integrifolia [Artocarpus integer], Eugenia jambos [Syzygium jambos], Eugenia surinamiensis [Eugenia punicifolia], orange and lime. Sleeping at Pennell's
(28 Jul 1822) Going about three miles into the country, 'but it is much cultivated'. Seeing in the small gardens 'in front of some gentlemen's houses' beautiful trees of the double flowering oleander. Returning for breakfast at the consul's [William Pennell] house. Boarding the ship
(31 Jul 1822) Going to William Pennell's house two miles from the town. In the afternoon, walking for about two and a half miles. Seeing plenty of trees cultivated: Mangifera indica, Artocarpus integrifolia [Artocarpus integer], Cacus nucifera [Cocos nucifera], Elais guineensis [Elaeis guineensis], oranges and lemons. Seeing a beautiful orchideous 'Lochartia or Catasetum? growing on old trees', two or three species of Ageratum related to coelestinum [Ageratum corymbosum] and several species of Melastoma, most in fruit. The damp meadows covered with Iris in flower, 'perhaps Iris martinicensis [Trimezia martinicensis]' and a species of Hypoxis, both with yellow flowers
(1 Aug 1822) Going out early to collect seeds of the Melastoma seen the previous day. Seeing large trees covered with a species of Tillandsia closely related to ligulata [Guzmania lingulata]. Raining hard, 'which prevented me from going out'
(2 Aug 1822) Going to take up roots of Iris and Hypoxis. Discovering Angraecum species, 'perhaps maculatum [Oeceoclades maculata]'. Boarding the ship in the afternoon
(3 Aug 1822) Raining hard. Going on shore in the afternoon. Staying the night at the consul's [William Pennell] house
(4 Aug 1822) Wet morning. Rising late. Collecting specimens of two or three species of Adiantum and plants of a large species of Begonia with small white flowers, on a bank by the seashore
(5 Aug 1822) Going three miles out. Seeing a beautiful malvaceous plant with cordate leaves, 'the whole plant glutinous, the flowers resembling Chironia decussata, the same size and colour'. Seeing a curious species of orchid with yellow flowers and many curious ferns in a damp place in a grove of Melastoma. Collecting on the return journey specimens of a beautiful Clematis with fragrant flowers and a species of Lantana six inches high with red flowers
(6 Aug 1822) Packing specimens and 'other articles'. Boarding the ship in the afternoon
(7 Aug 1822) Sailing from Bahia St Salvador [Salvador, Bahia, Brazil] after breakfast
(16 Aug 1822) Anchoring off Pernambuco [Brazil]. Landing at 11am. Going 'a little way into the country'. Seeing fields planted with Jatropha manihot [Manihot esculenta], Sacharum officiniarum [Saccharum officiniarum] and Gossipeum arboreum [Gossypium arboreum]. Seeing on the sides of the road near the town plenty of Turnera brasili [Turnera brasiliensis]. Seeing a beautiful 'sensitive' mimosa, about 15 feet high, and in the salt marshes near the town plenty of Pontadiera [Pontederia] 'which is an ornament to the spot where it grows', Exacum guineensis [Schultesia guianensis] with copper coloured flowers and several species of Calceolaria 'one of which has a beautiful dark blue flower'
The country very low and marshy, the town more regular and compact but smaller than Bahia [Brazil]. Boarding the ship at 8pm, and sailing half an hour later
(20 Aug 1822) Anchoring off Maranham [Maranhao, Brazil]
(21 Aug 1822) Going on shore to search for lodgings, 'but found them rather difficult to get'
(22 Aug 1822) Hiring a room at an inn, 'although but an indifferent one'. Going on board in the afternoon to bring his belongings on shore
(23 Aug 1822) Setting out in the morning with 'a man I had hired to carry my specimens on board'. Seeing many fine species of palms, two species of cocus [Cocos], two species of Bactris, Mauritia flexuosa, and many other curious and beautiful shrubs not yet in English gardens. Collecting bulbs of two species of Amaryllis in a thicket of low growing trees
(24 Aug 1822) Setting out at daybreak for a marsh six miles from the town. Seeing many species of Melastoma, including Melastoma physophora [Tococa guianensis], Melastoma aquaticus [Nepsera aquatica], Rhexia bivalvis [Acisanthera bivalvis] and several other marsh plants, including Eriocaulon, Utricularia, Heperanthera reniforme [Heteranthera reniformis] and Lymnocharis plumieria [Limnocharis flava]. Seeing in the plantations fine trees of Artocarpus incisa [Artocarpus altilis] bearing fruit. Returning in the evening. 'The town has been beautifully illuminated tonight on account of the Constitution' [the independence of Brazil was to be declared 7 Sep 1822; the festivities were perhaps in preparation for that]
(25 Aug 1822) Sunday. Viewing the gardens in the town: 'they are all in a very rough state'. Commonly cultivated trees including breadfruit, lemon, lime, alligator pear [avocado] and Surinam cherry [here the journal includes a list of 11 more trees]. Visiting 'Newman's [?John Newman, botanist] garden, it is a very small spot', with cockscombs, Vinca rosea var. alba [Catharanthus roseus] and several passion flowers
(26 Aug 1822) Setting out at 6am in a canoe up the river to see a tree of Castania de Parra Berholetia excelsa [castanha-do-para, Bertholletia excelsa], hoping to find it in flower 'which would have been a very desirable thing as it is not known', but finding the tree without flower or fruit. Not seeing anything else in particular. 'Shot several birds on going up the river and returning down'. The riversides covered with mangroves in low places, and on the elevated banks with palm trees, two or three species of Eugenia, several species of Banisteria with beautiful golden flowers and two or three species of Bryonia with red flowers. Returning at 10pm
(27 Aug 1822) Setting out 'in a different way to any I had been before'. Seeing a large tree of Carica spinosa [Jacaratia spinosa], Carolina pumila [unidentified] in flower 'which had a beautiful appearance'. Seeing the beautiful Talagalea campestris [Amasonia campestris] for the first time and plenty of Allamanda cathartica
Raining hard in the afternoon. Finding on his return the windows in his room left open and the room full of water, and 'my specimens and seeds [were] perfectly wet which caused a great deal of trouble and rendered many of them useless'
(28 Aug 1822) Going into the interior of the island, 12 or 14 miles. Discovering by a rivulet a very large scitamineous plant with 'leaves longer than that of a plantain, resembling Urania speciosa [Ravenala madagascariensis]'. Seeing on the roadsides many species of Exacum, particularly Exacum spicatum [Coutoubea spicata] and Exacum vergatum [unidentified], and plenty of Talagalea campestris [Amasonia campestris]. Returning in the evening 'very much fatigued'. Flowers adorning the roadsides including several species of Banisteria, two or three species of Eugenia, two or three species of Myrtus, Isertia coccinea, several species of Passiflora and a beautiful species of Helecteris [Helicteres] with red flowers
(29 Aug 1822) Looking over seeds and specimens collected. Going out in the afternoon. Seeing by the seashore plenty of Carolina [Carolinea] in flower and 'piper, a strange species, perhaps longum' [Piper longum]
(30 Aug 1822) Going five miles from the town along the seashore. Collecting seeds and specimens. Seeing many beautiful flowers, including several species of Bryonia, Allamanda cathartica, Carolina [Carolinea], Talagalea campestris [Amasonia campestris], a beautiful species of Turnera and Hibiscus, 'a beautiful trailing little plant with large yellow flowers'. Returning to prepare for 'a small journey tomorrow to the Villa de Pasto [the consul's residence]'
(31 Aug 1822) Setting out in a canoe in the morning with John Smith and a guide provided by the Consul [Robert Hesketh, British consul in Maranhao, Brazil] for Benfica [Brazil] 12 miles away. The sides of the river covered with mangroves. Reaching Benfica just before dark
(1 Sep 1822) The country low and marshy, 'clothed with various species of Melastoma', and palm trees growing in the more elevated parts. Collecting many specimens and seeds
(2 Sep 1822) Packing up specimens and seeds. Sending them to town 'by a canoe with a man, our guide whom we were glad to get rid of on account of his conduct, he had not been sober an hour since he left the town'. Travelling home with John Smith by land. Seeing Viola itouba [?Hybanthus calceolaria], Viola ipecacuanha [Hybanthus calceolaria], Hydrolea spinosa, with various species of Banisteria, two or three species of Bignonia, Isertia coccinea and several species of Eugenia, 'all of which were in flower which had a noble effect'. Returning at 9pm
(3 Sep 1822) Turning specimens. Packing seeds. In the afternoon going out to collect young palm trees
(4 Sep 1822) Going several miles for various species of young palm trees to fill up a box. Planting the box in the afternoon. Planting a box of 'the finest shrubs I had seen here'
(5 Sep 1822) Packing. Feeling feverish and weak
(6 Sep 1822) Boarding the ship. Sailing in the evening
(7 Sep 1822) 'Continue very weak and feverish'
(16 Sep 1822) Seeing the island of Trinidad [Trinidad and Tobago]
(17 Sep 1822) The weather very calm. Slow progress
(18 Sep 1822) 'Drove back by the current in the Gulf of Pora [Gulf of Paria], no wind, thunderstorm'
(19 Sep 1822) 'Rather squally with thunder and rain'. Anchoring off Port of Spain [Trinidad and Tobago]. Seeing the Epithemus frigate and Icarus sloop [single mast sailing boat] anchored. The island very mountainous, covered with trees
(20 Sep 1822) Going on shore. Meeting Lockhart [David Lockhart, botanist and gardener in Trinidad] in the town square. Walking through the town and the outskirts. Going to St Ann's, the governor's [Ralph Woodford, British governor of Trinidad] house and the Botanic Garden, at the foot of a mountain range two miles from Port of Spain [Trinidad and Tobago]. The garden not quite ready but with many fine plants and trees. Returning to the town to hire a boat to bring belongings on shore but unable to do so late in the evening. Staying at an inn for the night. The town very regularly built with wide streets
(21 Sep 1822) Going to the wharf early in the morning to wait for a boat from the ship to come on shore. Bringing his belongings on shore. Wet day. Staying in town until the afternoon. Hiring a cart to take boxes to St Ann's [governor's residence] 'where I am to stop while here'
(22 Sep 1822) Setting out after breakfast with David Lockhart for the top of a mountain range six miles away. Seeing hedges around the plantations composed of Haematoxylon campechianum [Haematoxylum campechianum], resembling a thorn hedge. Seeing in the woods plenty of Heliconia bihai, Psittacorum [Heliconia psittacorum] and a new species related to bihai, a curious species of Maranta, several strange ferns, 'and also I have seen many old faces today', including Hura crepitans, Parkinsonia aculeata and Cerbera thevetia [Cascabela thevetia]. Returning in the evening
(23 Sep 1822) Setting off with David Lockhart up the valley of Maraval [Trinidad and Tobago], surrounded by two mountain ranges. Seeing many very fine palms growing on the mountains with other trees, with Coccus fusiformis [Acrocomia aculeata] and Elais occidentalis [Calyptronoma occidentalis]. On the lower parts of the mountains, Areca catechu, Areca oleracea [Roystonea oleracea] 'with another very slender species', Bactris minor [Bactris guineensis], 'with two or three climbing ones', Ludovia funifera [Evodianthus funifer] and Nunezia fragrans [Chamaedorea fragrans]. Seeing many species of Melastoma, Blackia quinquinervia [Bellucia grossularioides], many curious ferns, Mikania scandens, 'the guacca [Mikania guaco] of the country, which has now become so efficacious in fevers' and Thunbergia fragrans. On the roadsides, plenty of Pancratium carabeum [Hymenocallis caribaea], Pothos odorata [Spathiphyllum cannifolium] and Besleria pulchella [Chrysothemis pulchella]. Returning late in the evening
(24 Sep 1822) David Lockhart 'being engaged with Logan's [unidentified] affairs who died yesterday, could not attend me today'. Putting seeds and specimens in order. Immersing fruits in spirits
(25 Sep 1822) Going to a valley south of the town. Seeing several 'curious' plants, including a 'very fine' Fothergilla at the top of the mountain and several Epidendrum in the valley. Rain surprising them at the top of the mountain, 'which made us retreat to the nearest houses, but before we could reach shelter we were completely wet through'
(26 Sep 1822) Hiring a boat to go to Shaguana [Chaguanas, Trinidad and Tobago], 12 miles west of Port of Spain [Trinidad and Tobago]. Landing at 3pm. Raining hard all the way. 'The commandant of that quarter came in the same boat with us', inviting them to stay with him for a few days. Going to his house three miles away from the landing place. Staying for the night
(27 Sep 1822) Going to a wood near the commandant's house early in the morning. Seeing trees covered with parasitical plants, having recently been cut down. Collecting many curious Epidendrum. The country low and wet
Seeing plantations, mostly Theobroma cacao 'shaded with rows of a beautiful large species of Erythrina, there is one row of Erythrina for every two rows of cocoa'. Heavy shower and thunder on return. Staying the night at a 'manager's house near the landing place'
(28 Sep 1822) Embarking in a canoe, but having to push the canoe through the mud in the low tide for two miles. Reaching Port of Spain [Trinidad and Tobago] at 2pm. After refreshments, returning to St Ann's [the governor's residence]. Packing a box of Epidendrum with a few curious scitamineous plants
(29 Sep 1822) In the morning going to inform Edward Sabine 'that I had a box to send per HMS Morgiana, which is to sail in the evening'. Returning to St Ann's [the governor's residence]. Sending the box down to Port of Spain [Trinidad and Tobago]. Turning specimens in the afternoon
Listing and numbering plants sent from the island of Trinidad [Trinidad and Tobago], including Maranta capitata [Calathea capitata], Melvellia speciosa [Cuphea melvilla], Pothos ('a very curious plant'), Ruellia tuberosa 'with beautiful large blue flowers' and 'a curious, aquatic plant' [here the journal includes a list of 7 more plants. For further versions of the list, Sep 1822, see RHS/Col/2/3/9 and RHS/Col/2/4/14]
(30 Sep 1822) Setting out with David Lockhart to the valley of Maraccus [Maracas, Trinidad and Tobago] 15 miles away. Riding mules. Passing through the city of St Joseph [Trinidad and Tobago] at 9pm. Arriving at a plantation house at 1am, 'where we rested ourselves till day light'. Seeing only large Bombax pentandria [Ceiba pentandra] trees on the way, 'although it was moonlight'
(1 Oct 1822) Setting out in the morning to Lesquevis [Las Cuevas, Trinidad and Tobago] 10 or 12 miles away, 'to a plantation whereof Lockhart [David Lockhart] knew the manager'. Passing over a large mountain. Seeing many strange plants, particularly ferns, a species of Podocarpus, perhaps Podocarpus neriifolia [Podocarpus neriifolius], very common at higher elevations on the island, and many other interesting trees, but none in flower or fruit
Descending the other side of the mountain, but being caught in rain, thunder and lightning. Reaching their destination at 5pm, 'when we borrowed cloathes and changed ourselves', after having spent four or five hours out in the rain. Being informed of the impossibility of reaching the top of the highest mountain in the rain, 'as at this season it is almost perpetual rain on its summit, which we were very sorry to hear, it being our intention to visit the top'
The country beautiful, with extensive cocoa plantations in the valleys and high, green mountains, their summits almost always hidden in the clouds
(2 Oct 1822) Walking down to the beach in the morning with David Lockhart. Seeing a curious Pancratium, plenty of Remirea maritima and Cocoloba uvifera [Coccoloba uvifera], in fruit. Hiring a boat after breakfast to Little Mariacus [?Maracas Bay, Trinidad and Tobago]. Raining the whole journey. Proceeding to Port of Spain [Trinidad and Tobago]. Climbing two steep mountains
Reaching Santa Cruz [Trinidad and Tobago], at the foot of the last mountain, after dark. Leaving baggage 'at the commandant's of that quarter'. Reaching St Ann's [the governor's residence] at 2am
(3 Oct 1822) Looking over specimens and seeds. Raining
(4 Oct 1822) Going on board in the morning. Bringing on shore two or three plants of Pandanus candelabrum, one jakansii [jackfruit] and one Sterculia heterophylla for David Lockhart to plant in the garden. Turning specimens and 'laying past what is properly dry'
(5 Oct 1822) Immersing fruits in spirits. In the afternoon going with David Lockhart to see Baron de Shack [Edward de Shack, Austrian botanist in Trinidad], but finding him in a 'very weak state', recovering from a fever. Seeing 'nothing particular in or about his garden'
(6 Oct 1822) Setting out with David Lockhart for a valley north-east of the town eight miles away. Seeing a beautiful species of Blakea. At the end of the valley seeing plenty of cultivated Curcuma zedoara [Curcuma zedoaria], Curcuma longa, Arum esculentum [Colocasia esculenta] and Arum atropurpureum [?Arisaema triphyllum]. The valley surrounded by 'immense ridges of mountains which has a beautiful effect'
(7 Oct 1822) Going with David Lockhart to the top of a ridge of mountains to the east of the town on the right of the valley of Maraval [Trinidad and Tobago]. Being 'obliged to return' due to rain. The valleys 'perfectly dry, but on our return were inundated in some places a foot deep'. Seeing several interesting scitamineous plants on the way up, including a 'curious' Passiflora
Going up the valley of Maraval for three miles to a small garden 'which a gentleman has surrounding his house' to see the vegetable butterfly [Psychopsis papilio] in flower. Describing it as beautiful, the colour of Ferraria tigrida [Tigridia pavonia] with light coloured, dark spotted leaves
(8 Oct 1822) Packing. Preparing to board the ship the following morning
(9 Oct 1822) Boarding the ship, but on being informed the ship would not sail until the following morning, 'I immediately came on shore'. Going with David Lockhart to Edward de Shack's to try and obtain a butterfly plant [Psychopsis papilio]. Not succeeding. Seeing a beautiful parasitical Limidorum [Limodorum] in flower
(10 Oct 1822) Boarding the ship after breakfast. Sailing from Trinidad [Trinidad and Tobago]
(16 Oct 1822) Seeing the island of Jamaica, 'but the sea breeze ceasing and the land wind letting in we could not make Port Royal [Jamaica], we were obliged to heave [slow or stop] off and on all night'
(17 Oct 1822) Anchoring in Port Royal
(18 Oct 1822) Going on shore in Port Royal. Going in a wherry [large light barge or light rowing boat] to Kingston [Jamaica] seven miles away. Going to an inn to enquire after Mr Higson [Thomas Higson, slave holder, merchant and botanist in Jamaica] and Dr West [Stewart West, physician and botanist in Jamaica]. Being informed that Thomas Higson 'had absconded from Kingston and had left his affairs in a very bad way'. Stewart West difficult to reach at Bath Saint Thomas's [Jamaica], 30 miles away and the river difficult to navigate in the wet season. Hiring a canoe. Returning on board. Raining hard all afternoon
(19-20 Oct 1822) Raining hard
(21 Oct 1822) Going to Kingston, intending to meet Stewart West at Bath [Jamaica,] 'but found the conveyance so very high, I did not think it would be proper to go even on horseback'. Noting that the cost of travel would be at least £12 and accommodation on the island was expensive. In the afternoon going six miles out of Kingston. Seeing hedges of Bromelias and 'a Ceris [?Cereus] with 12 angles', scattered trees of Tamarindus, Bombax, Laurus, pasco [?mata-passo, Pentadesma butyracea] and Carica papaya. Fields and roadsides covered with Tribulus maximus [Kallstroemia maxima] in flower, 'resembling at a little distance fields of Ranunculus or buttercups'. Returning to Kingston after dark. Sleeping at an inn
(22 Oct 1822) Going to Port Royal after breakfast in a passage boat, finding it too expensive to live in Kingston without an acquaintance
(23 Oct 1822) Not feeling well. Staying on board
(24 Oct 1822) Going on shore with Edward Sabine. Taking a boat with John Smith to Green Bay [Jamaica] near Port Henderson [Jamaica]
Seeing by the seashore several interesting species of cactus, two species of Ceris [?Cereus] 'with ten or twelve angles', curious Opuntii [Opuntia], Guiacum officinale [Guaiacum officinale], Cissus acida [Cissus trifoliata] and Zylophylla angustifolia [Phyllanthus angustifolius]. Beyond Port Henderson on the road to Spanish Town [Jamaica], seeing valleys covered with mimosa, two species of Desmanthus, several varieties of Opuntia, Cactus melo cactus [Melocactus] with many other succulent plants, Ruellia tuberosa, 'and among all the plants here there is none equal in beauty to Tribulus maximus [Kallstroemia maxima] which clothed the edges of the roads and also low sandy places, it is a complete sheet of yellow'. Returning on board the ship in the evening
(25 Oct 1822) Botanising between Port Henderson and Spanish Town. Seeing a beautiful species of Bauhinia
(26 Oct 1822) Raining hard all day
(27 Oct 1822) 'Herbalising' on the mountains near Port Henderson
(29 Oct 1822) Going to Port Henderson to procure two large plants of Cactus melo cactus [Melocactus] 'with turbans upon them', the low lands having plenty of them. Seeing a very beautiful species of Bauhinia, a dwarf species with white flowers. 'I have seen nothing else today but what was perfectly familiar to me as growing in the gardens in England'
(30 Oct 1822) Preparing for a journey to the highest peak of the Port Royal Mountains [Jamaica] with Edward Sabine
(31 Oct 1822) Setting out at 6am via Kingston for the Port Royal Mountains. The roadsides covered with various species of mimosa in flower. Near the top among the coffee plantations seeing 'plenty of English weeds', Alsine media [Stellaria media], Senecio vulgaris etc. Stopping at Newton [Jamaica], about 1,000 feet below the peak. In the mountains, plenty of Blakea trinervia [identification unresolved as at Jun 2018], Meriana purpurea [Meriania purpurea] and a beautiful species of Clethra
(1 Nov 1822) The temperature 45° at 5am: 'we found it exceedingly cold'. Setting out for the peak at 6am, reaching the summit at 8am. Edward Sabine ascertaining the height to be about 4,600 feet. Gathering many very curious Epidendrum. Thinking they would suit greenhouse growing well as they must be used to cold temperatures. Seeing many English plants, including strawberries. Seeing a beautiful 'almost climbing' Blakea trinervia [identification unresolved as at Jun 2018], Meriana purpurea [Meriania purpurea], rubia and alba [unidentified] ('beautiful plants related to Blakea'), collecting seeds of each sort. Returning for breakfast at a nearby planter's house. Sabine and the rest of the company returning to Newton [Jamaica]
Going with Dr Gordon [Joseph Gordon, slave holder and attorney in Jamaica] to Coldspring [Cold Spring, Jamaica], 'where he intends making a garden (Dr Gordon we met on the top of the mountain, he had come to meet us, he seemed particularly fond of plants)'. Seeing the ruins of an old garden, with several species of Quercus, Magnolia grandiflora, and plumiera [Magnolia dodecapetala], Liriodendron tulipifera, plenty of Amaryllis belladonna in flower and several Epidendrum. The peak, just above Coldspring, covered with tree ferns. Raining hard in the evening. Going to Gordon's house six or eight miles away. Excellent views from the peak of the Blue Mountains [Jamaica]
(2 Nov 1822) Going to Mr Wiles' [James Wiles, slave holder and botanist in Jamaica], 'once superintendent of the old Jamaica Botanic Garden and the same person that went with Captain Bligh for the breadfruit [James Wiles accompanied Captain William Bligh as a botanist on an expedition to the South Seas]'. Mr Wiles saying that the Botanic Garden at Bath [Jamaica] was not worth visiting. 'Herbalising' for a few hours. Seeing Limidorum tuberosum [Calopogon tuberosus], a few Epidendrum and many curious ferns in the woods. Staying the night at Joseph Gordon's
(3 Nov 1822) James Wiles coming to Joseph Gordon's in the morning. Going to see the old Botanic Garden after breakfast. Seeing on the way on the rocks 'the beautiful little Cyrella pulchella [Achimenes erecta] in flower', Epidendron fragrans [Prosthechea fragrans], ensifolium [Cymbidium ensifolium] and cordatum [Epidendrum cordatum]. In the garden, seeing two large mangosteen trees, ?Pandanus odoratissimus, Sterculia acuminata [Cola acuminata] and Codarium acutifolia [Codarium acutifolium, identification unresolved as at Jun 2018], a beautiful large Cocus palm tree also common on the island of Maranham [Maranhao, Brazil]. On the return journey his horse stumbling on the bad road, Don falling off and bruising his hand. Staying the night at Wiles'
(4 Nov 1822) Unable to venture to 'herbalise' with a swollen and painful hand. Returning to Kingston. Hiring a boat. Boarding the ship
(5 Nov 1822) Turning specimens. Packing Epidendrum 'in such a way as I think they will carry home safest'. Sailing 'down to the fore way to be ready for the breeze in the morning but received orders to stop another day'
(6 Nov 1822) Sailing in the morning with a convoy of eight merchant vessels
(11 Nov 1822) Anchoring off Grand Cayman Island [Cayman Islands] to wait for the convoy, 'which we had lost sight of in leaving Jamaica'. The island low and level particularly near George Town [Cayman Islands] ('a few scattered houses'). Seeing a few very interesting plants by the seashore, but due to mosquitoes 'it is scarcely possible for a person to stop even for a few minutes'. Seeing plenty of coconut trees, the largest trees a species of Ficus related to nitida [Ficus benjamina] and Chrysobalanus icaco
(12 Nov 1822) Going on shore in the morning, 'as we understood the mosquitoes were not so troublesome in the middle part of the day'. Seeing a fan palm, perhaps Corypha tectorum [Copernicia tectorum] used for thatching houses. Seeing an Amaryllis not in flower, 'but I understood it from the negroes to be white', a beautiful cream coloured flower (Plumieria) [Plumaria], two or three curious Epidendrum and old trees covered with Ceris grandiflora [Selenicereus grandiflorus] in flower. Sailing in the afternoon without the convoy
(21 Nov 1822) Anchoring off Havanah [Havana, Cuba]
(22 Nov 1822) Going on shore in the morning. Hiring a 'volant or coach' [volante] to visit Don Antonio de la Osa [Don Jose Antonio de la Ossa, Cuban director of the Havana Botanic Garden in Cuba]. Getting lost on the way to the Botanic Garden. Don Antonio not returning until 3pm, 'but I was little better of it, as he could neither read nor speak English'
Being shown around the gardens: 'a very small piece of ground surrounded by weeping willows'. Seeing Melia azedarach, Punica granatum, Moringa, Heteranthera[?], Pereskia portulaceafolia [Pereskia portulacifolia], Jatropha moluceanus [?Jatropha integerrima] ('beautiful in flower'), Omphalia diandra [Omphalea diandra] and a variety of diversifolia. Don Antonio writing a note in French 'wishing me to call on him early next morning for the purpose of going together to get the letter translated (Mr Sabine's [Edward Sabine] letter of introduction)'
(23 Nov 1822) Going out in the morning to visit Don Jose Antonio de la Ossa. 'The cause of his not writing was through illness'. Going after breakfast to find a translator for Edward Sabine's letter [of introduction], finding one easily. Being given permission to choose seeds and specimens from the collection. Selecting four or five kinds of seeds and many specimens. Boarding the ship in the evening
(24 Nov 1822) Visiting Don Jose Antonio de la Ossa in the morning. Selecting specimens. Returning on board in the evening
(25 Nov 1822) Visiting Don Jose Antonio de la Ossa in the morning. Collecting seeds and plants from the Botanic Garden. 'The most particular things got' including Omphalia diandria [Omphalea diandra], various diversifolia and Pereskia portulaceafolia [Pereskia portulacifolia] cuttings. Seeing beautiful trees of Jacaranda in the garden. Having belongings brought to the wharf. Hiring a boat and boarding the ship
(26 Nov 1822) Going on shore. Looking around the suburbs: 'the trees that were planted in avenues were well known to me'. Seeing a beautiful species of Convolvulus with small yellow flowers in close corymbs in a hedge outside the town. Returning on board in the evening
(27 Nov 1822) Sailing in the morning with a convoy of two merchant ships
(29 Nov 1822) Packing a box of Epidendrum from Jamaica and bulbs from Brazil and the West Indies to send on the Vittoria, 'a vessel now under our convoy' on its way to England
(30 Nov 1822) Putting the box on board the Vittoria in the Gulf of Florida [United States of America]. The northerly wind feeling cold. Heavy sea. Listing the contents of the box, including a species of Catasetum ('flowered on board'), Epidendrum from Grand Cayman [Cayman Islands], four different Amaryllis from Maranham [Maranhao, Brazil], Swietenia mahagoni from Trinidad [Trinidad and Tobago], about 30 species of epidendri from Jamaica, and a head of a curious variety of Indian corn [here the journal includes a list of 13 more plants. For another copy of the list, 30 Nov 1822, see RHS/Col/2/3/10]
(1 Dec 1822) The northerly wind and heavy sea continuing. Removing boxes of living plants from the chains, placing them on the lower deck. Worrying about their survival, but other parts of the ship being too cold and damp
(9 Dec 1822) Anchoring in the quarantine grounds [in New York, United States of America]. Very cold
(10 Dec 1822) Going in a steam boat to New York [United States of America]: 'had a view of the greater part of the city'
(12 Dec 1822) Going to Dr Hosack's [David Hosack, American physician and botanist in New York]. Being told where to find Mr Hogg [Thomas Hogg, American nursery owner in New York] 'who has a small nursery about one mile from the town where he will in a few years make an excellent collection'. Visiting Hogg's garden
(13 Dec 1822) Going out with Thomas Hogg to the neighbouring fields. Not seeing much due to the season. Seeing plenty of Pothos fatida [Symplocarpus foetidus] and Orontium aquaticum: 'these I should not have seen, if they had not been immersed in water'
(14 Dec 1822) Cold day with frost. Going to David Hosack's in the evening 'where there is a meeting held every Saturday by the Literati of New York'. Being introduced to Dr Torrey [John Torrey, American physician and botanist in New York], who having published a catalogue of plants growing within 30 miles of New York [United States of America] 'is no doubt the best informed in New York in that way'
(15 Dec 1822) Going out to see Thomas Hogg. Going together to the Botanic Garden: 'it is a piece of ground containing 20 acres surrounded by walls'. A greenhouse with slated roof and vinery on one side, a stove on the other side. The glass broken, and the garden had 'the appearance of a common field'. Collecting seeds of Triosteum perfoliatum and 'a Lonicera I was not acquainted with'. The garden a 'miserable place'
Going farther to some uncultivated land where the majority of the plants on the island grew. Seeing and collecting Pyrola umbellata [Chimaphila umbellata], Aquilegia canadensis, Anemone thalictroides [Anemonella thalictroides] and Anemone pensylvania [Anemone dichotoma] and Goodyera pubescens [here the journal includes a list of 4 more plants]. The only shrubs being Hamamellis virginica [Hamamelis virginiana], Kalmia latifolia and azalias. Trying to dig roots of Erythronium americanum and Hypoxis graminea [Hypoxis hirsuta], but failing due to frozen ground
(16 Dec 1822) With Thomas Hogg. Severe frost continuing
(17 Dec 1822) Going to see John Torrey's herbarium and library, 'which is but small, but the herbarium contains the greater part of North American plants'
(18 Dec 1822) Looking through a collection of specimens collected in Georgia [United States of America] by Le Conte [John Eatton Le Conte, American naturalist]. Seeing many fine Polygalla and 'also two phloxes with new names although they do not appear to me to be different from pubescens which is under the name of linearis [Phlox linearis. ?Collomia biflora, identification unresolved as at Jun 2018] and the other setacea [Phlox subulata var. setacea] which is under the name of floribunda'. Raining hard
(19 Dec 1822) Going to Flushing, Long Island [New York, United States of America] with John Torrey to see Mr Prince's [William Prince, American horticulturist in New York] garden. Arriving after dark. Staying all night
(20 Dec 1822) Looking through the extensive gardens of William Prince, including fruit trees with some American shrubs: 'not to be compared with the London nurseries'. Being unable to say much more, seeing nothing green. In the small greenhouse 'he has nothing particular in it except a fine plant of Ilex aquifolium but he would not part with it'
Going to a small plantation nearby. Collecting plants including Rhamnus pubescens [Frangula sphaerosperma], Asclepias obtusifolia [Asclepias latifolia], Lespedeza capitata, Pyrola maculata [Chimaphila maculata] and Silene pensylvanica [here the journal includes a list of 5 more plants]. Seeing asters, Solidago, Hibiscus palustris, Iva frutescens and Kalmia latifolia. Plantations composed of Quercus obtusifolia [Quercus gambelii]. Receiving Prince's list of American plants, 'marked off what I wished, so as he might pack them up with what plants I had collected'
(21 Dec 1822) Returning to New York [United States of America]. Heavy snowfall
(22 Dec 1822) Severe frost
(23 Dec 1822) Going out in the fields with Thomas Hogg to dig up roots of Erythronum americanum and Hypoxis graminea in the snow. Severe frost in the afternoon
(24 Dec 1822) Severe frost. 'The winter is now set in and there will be nothing got or seen this season'
(25 Dec 1822) Going with Thomas Hogg to see small greenhouses belonging to local merchants. Seeing only a few common flowering plants. Severe frost
(26 Dec 1822) Receiving the box from William Prince at Flushing [Long Island, New York, United States of America]. Ordering a box to be made for the plants collected with Thomas Hogg
(27 Dec 1822) Packing the plants collected in New York [United States of America]
(28 Dec 1822) Saturday. Attending David Hosack's meeting in the evening
(30 Dec 1822) Hiring a cart to carry boxes and other articles to the Staten Island [New York, United States of America] steam boat. Hiring a boat at Staten Island. Boarding the ship
(31 Dec 1822) Intense frost. Worrying if he would be able to keep the tropical plants alive. Noting that the boxes on the lower deck seemed to be feeling the effects of the frost: 'there is not a place in the ship but water will freeze in a few minutes'
(2 Jan 1823) Going to New York [United States of America] in the afternoon. John Torrey receiving a parcel of seeds. Selecting a few
(3 Jan 1823) Going with John Torrey to find seeds of Xylosteum villosum [Lonicera caerulea], the yellow honeysuckle, 'but the plant was perfectly dead'
(5 Jan 1823) Sailing in the afternoon with a strong breeze
(6 Feb 1823) Anchoring at Spithead in the afternoon
(7 Feb 1823) Arriving in London in the evening
Pages 165-167: Numbered list of 'articles belonging to Mr George Don on board HM Sloop Pheasant' (for another version of the list, c.Feb 1823, see RHS/Col/2/3/14), including 'box containing insects', 'case of bottles containing fruits', 'bag containing palm nuts, two or three sorts, with one fruit of Lecythus grandiflora [Eschweilera grandiflora]', 'box containing live plants from the island of St Thomas [Sao Tome, Sao Tome and Principe] the most of which were killed with the frost of New York' and 'bag of dried plants from various places' [here the journal includes a list of 14 more items]
Extent - 1 volume
Repository - Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library
Copyright - Royal Horticultural Society
Credit Line - RHS Lindley Collections
Usage terms - Non-commercial use with attribution permitted (CC BY-NC 4.0)