Second rough version of George Don's journal (volume 1 of 2)
Information
Title - Second rough version of George Don's journal (volume 1 of 2)
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/2/1/3
Date - 13 Nov 1821-31 May 1822
Scope & content - Second rough version (volume 1 of 2) of George Don's travel journal, 13 Nov 1821-31 May 1822, describing the journey from England to St Thomas [Sao Tome and Principe]
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-85: Narrative of travel, 13 Nov 1821-31 May 1822
Pages 86-88: Blank
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled 'Journal first, from England to the Island of St Thomas in Africa from Novem 13th 1821 to June the 1th 1822 (G. Don). 4'. Dimensions: 32 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm. Conserved in 2018: the binding and pages were cleaned and repairs were carried out to both; a loose enclosure relating to the entry of 25 Apr 1822 was attached to the blank facing page during conservation
This volume is the first of two volumes of the rough second copy of George Don's journal. For the second volume of the rough second copy, 2 Jun 1822-27 Feb 1823, see RHS/Col/2/1/4. For the first rough copy, 13 Nov 1821-7 Feb 1823, see RHS/Col/2/1/1-2. For the fair copy of the journal, 13 Nov 1821-13 Jan 1823, see RHS/Col/2/1/5
The volume is written in George Don's hand, on rectos only. There are occasional annotations, additions and crossings out in Don's hand in pencil on the versos, in the margins and between the lines. Substantial annotations are included in the description and identified as such
The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Loose papers with lists of plants and a list of Don's belongings on HMS Pheasant were previously enclosed at the rear of the volume. These papers have been transferred to RHS/Col/2/3 (see RHS/Col/2/3/7, RHS/Col/2/3/9, RHS/Col/2/3/10 and RHS/Col/2/3/14)
Summary of contents:
(13 Nov 1821) Leaving London with Captain Sabine [Edward Sabine, geophysicist, naturalist and astronomer, brother of Joseph Sabine, secretary of the RHS] to join HMS Iphigenia
(14 Nov 1821) Arriving at Portsmouth in the morning. Staying at the George Inn. Visiting local gardens and seeing Medicago arborea, Myrtus and Lauristinus, 'finer than I had ever seen before'
(17 Nov 1821) On board the ship, but not sailing. South-westerly wind
(20 Nov 1821) Sailing from Portsmouth. Progress slow as winds strong and westerly
(21 Nov 1821) Westerly wind, strong breezes and cloudy
(22 Nov 1821) Anchoring off Weymouth
(23 Nov 1821) 'Being much exhausted by sea sickness'. Going on shore with Edward Sabine. Visiting Portland Rocks [Isle of Portland] in the afternoon, 'to endeavour to procure some plants of the true Euphorbia portlandica'. Not finding it, but seeing Iris foetidissima, Oenanthe peucedanoides [unidentified], Juncus maritimus, Elymus geniculatus and Eryngium maritimum
(24 Nov 1821) Visiting small local gardens. Seeing Origanum pseudodictamnus [Origanum dictamnus], Marrubium pseudodictamnus [Ballota pseudodictamnus], Cineraria maritima [Jacobaea maritima] and Medicago arborea
(25 Nov 1821) Going on board
(31 Nov 1821) Asking the commanding officer [Robert Mends, captain of HMS Iphigenia] for a boat to Portland Rocks, 'having plenty of time on my hands'. Seeing plants including Conysa thapsoids [Conyza thapsoides], Glaucium luteum [Glaucium flavum], a curious variety of Rosa spinosissima with oblong red fruit, Euphorbia amygdaloides and Silene maritima [Silene uniflora] [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants]
(6 Dec 1821) Sailing from Weymouth. Moderate breezes
(7 Dec 1821) Strong southerly breezes with squalls
(14 Dec 1821) Westerly winds. 'Returned in latitude 44.43 longitude 10.58 west'
(19 Dec 1821) Anchoring in Torbay
(20 Dec 1821) Going on shore to Brixham. Edward Sabine visiting Teignmouth
(21 Dec 1821) Going out in the morning to see the countryside. Seeing Cotyledon umbilicus [Umbilicus rupestris] 'with leaves sometimes as large as a twopenny piece', Rubia peregrina, Rubia tinctoria [Rubia tinctorum], and between Upper and Lower Brixham, Cistus guttatus [Tuberaria guttata]
(24 Dec 1821) Winds changing to more favourable east-north-easterly. The ship preparing to sail. Don staying on shore to wait for the last boat with some prisoners[?] and officers, but having difficulties boarding the ship due to the gale and surf caused by the rising wind: 'almost swamped in the attempt'. The commodore [Robert Mends] sailing without the party due to the dangerous conditions. Don returning to the inn to dry his clothes
(25 Dec 1821) Leaving Brixham in the direction of Plymouth, hoping to find the ship. Taking a boat to Dartmouth, six miles away, and hiring a pilot boat to Plymouth: 'hoisted our small boat on board her and put to sea'
(26 Dec 1821) Arriving at Plymouth at 4am. After going on shore for breakfast, the officers informing the admiral of the situation. The admiral sending the party on board the Pygmy schooner [HMS Pigmy] to search for the Iphigenia [HMS Iphigenia], 'which he heard was at Plymouth'
(27 Dec 1821) Hearing that the ship had returned to Torbay
(29 Dec 1821) On board the HMS Pigmy. Due to high winds the commander [Thomas Hills, commander of HMS Pigmy] refusing to sail. Don and one of the midshipmen ('who is now dead') deciding to walk to Torbay, 32 miles away. Due to the rain, spending the night in Totnes, 24 miles from Plymouth
(30 Dec 1821) Hiring a car [carriage] to Torbay from Totnes. Hiring a boat to go on board the ship
(31 Dec 1821) Sailing from Torbay. Seeing HMS Pigmy at a distance. The rest of the officers and prisoners[?] joining the ship. North-westerly wind
(1 Jan 1822) Slow sailing, the south-westerly winds still against them. Anchoring in Plymouth
(2 Jan 1822) Saluting the admiral. Going on shore in the afternoon. Rain all evening
(3 Jan 1822) On board the ship
(4 Jan 1822) Sailing from Torbay with a more favourable north-easterly wind
(11 Jan 1822) Arriving at Funchal, Madeira [Portugal]. Saluting the governor [Rodrigo Antonio de Melo, Portuguese governor of Madeira]. Landing at Funchal with Mr Viech [Henry Veitch, British consul in Funchal, Madeira, Portugal, travelling on the ship], Edward Sabine and some of the officers. Passing through the Custom House. Staying at Veitch's house
Visiting his garden in the afternoon. Not seeing much, it being a wet mid-winter day. Seeing in the garden esculent [edible] vegetables and other plants, including Mangifera indica, Musa paradisiaca and Musa sapientum ('cultivated extensively in all the small gardens here'), Nerium oleander, large trees of Dracaena draco, Erythrina speciosa, 'among many other curious plants, but these being neither flower nor fruit I could not ascertain what they were' [here the journal includes a list of approximately 25 more plants]
Returning through the town: 'the streets are very narrow and confined, which in my opinion must render it very unwholesome'
(12 Jan 1822) Visiting Palmara [Madeira, Portugal], a mile away, to see Mr Blackburn's [Henry Blackburn, merchant in Madeira] gardens, 'an opulent merchant and who was a passenger on board the Iphigenia [HMS Iphigenia]'. Admiring the gardens with fine groves of orange, lemon, guava, plantations of coffee, sugar cane, 'and, I believe, the finest vineyards'. Seeing plants including Sempervivum canariense [Aeonium canariense], Aloe barbadensis, several varieties of Opuntia, Ruta pinnata, Globularia longifolia [here the journal includes a list of approximately 10 more plants]. Collecting specimens of ferns
(13 Jan 1822) Visiting Peak of Ruivo [Pico Ruivo, Madeira] on horseback with Edward Sabine, Captain Clevering [Douglas Charles Clavering, captain of HMS Pheasant], Robert Mends, Mr Whitlaw [Robert Whitelaw, surgeon on HMS Iphigenia], Henry Blackburn and Smith [John Smith, Edward Sabine's assistant]
Seeing plants including Arum esculentum [Colocasia esculenta] ('which goes under the name of yams by the natives'), Erica arborea ('an immense size, some of them 6 feet in circumference'), sweet chestnut, and 'at the height of 4,000 feet I saw a small peak covered with Sempervivum tabulare and Lycopodium denticulatum [Selaginella denticulata]' [here the journal includes a list of approximately 10 more plants]
Returning to the valley, unable to continue up the mountain on horseback. Sabine, 'not being perfectly satisfied with the observations he made here', climbing to the peak with Robert Whitelaw. Don and the rest of the party returning down. The forests at 5,000 feet covered with plants including Laurus indica, Ilex perado, Sideroxylon inerme, Clethra arborea and Salix canariensis [here the journal includes a list of 4 more plants]. The valleys filled with several species of Laurus, and the mountains covered with Spartium scoparium and Pteris aquilina [Pteridium aquilinium]. 'The country here is beautiful far beyond description'. Stopping under trees by a rivulet to wait for Sabine and Whitelaw and 'to refresh ourselves with what victuals we had brought with us'. Returning to Funchal at midnight with Captain Sabine
(14 Jan 1822) Writing a letter [to Joseph Sabine; for the letter, 14 Jan 1822, see RHS/Col/2/4/7]. Preparing for sailing
(15 Jan 1822) Sailing from Funchal [Madeira]
(17 Jan 1822) Anchoring off Santa Cruz, Teneriffe [Tenerife, Canary Islands]: 'this island is similar in appearance to Madeira, but the town is much cleaner and the streets much wider'. The mountains covered in plants including Euphorbia piscatoria, Agave americana, Lavandula pinnata, Lappago racemosa and Opuntia decumanus [Opuntia maxima], 'the same as Mr Anderson [?James Anderson, botanist] received from Mexico to a great size' [here the journal includes a list of approximately 20 more plants]. Temperature 69°
A gun fired as a signal from the ship for everyone to board at 3pm, 'so we had to be as expeditious as possible in getting our things ready'. Sailing from Santa Cruz
(18 Jan 1822) Still in sight of Teneriffe [Tenerife]. The weather calm and hazy
(24 Jan 1822) Coming in sight of the Cape de Verd Islands [Cabo Verde]. Seeing the mountainous islands of St Antonio [Santo Antao, Cabo Verde] and St Vincent [Sao Vicente, Cabo Verde]. Seeing a ship in a bay 'which they supposed to be a slave vessel, but on sending a boat it was found to be an American South Sea whaler'. Seeing flying fish for the first time
(25 Jan 1822) Passing the island of Fogo [Cabo Verde] to the west and St Jago [Santiago, Cabo Verde] to the east
(26 Jan 1822) Anchoring off Porto Praya [Praia, Santiago, Cabo Verde]. Landing with Edward Sabine 'in the valley of La Trinidad [Trindade, Santiago]'. Seeing Phoenix dactylifera and Gossypium arboretum, 'yielding the finest cotton I ever saw'. The island dry with nothing green apart from some coconut trees. Spending the few hours on the island seeing plants including Lotus jacobaeous, Cassia occidentalis [Senna occidentalis], Aloe barbadense ('in flower which has a beautiful appearance'), Physalis somnifera [Withania somnifera] and Asclepias gigantea [Calotropis gigantea] [here the journal includes a list of approximately 10 more plants]. Collecting seeds and specimens
The town 'a row or two of most miserable huts thatched with date palm leaves'. John Smith shooting birds, including a curious owl. Arranging the collected specimens on board
(27 Jan 1822) Going on shore before daybreak with a fishing party. The fishermen catching 'innumerable quantities of fish'. Don climbing nearby mountains. Seeing groves of Jatropha curcas. The mountains barren and dry. The hill and valley covered with Polypogon, various species of Sida, Cardiospermum, various species of Convolvulus and Ipomea [Ipomoea] in flower, 'the only green vegetable I saw'
Returning on board the ship at 9am. Going back on shore to collect insects. Going on board with the commodore [Robert Mends] in the evening
(28 Jan 1822) Sailing from St Jago [Santiago]
(31 Jan 1822) Seeing the coast of Africa, low and covered with trees. Edward Sabine going on shore on the island of Goree [Goree, Senegal]. Saluting the port. French officers from nearby vessels visiting on board. Sabine bringing back specimens of Argemone mexicana, 'the only vegetable that he saw on the island with the exception of a few cocoa nut [coconut] trees'. The island reminding Don of Inchkeith in Scotland, 'if it had been destitute of houses'. Sailing towards the Gambia River [Guinea, Senegal and The Gambia] in the evening
(1 Feb 1822) Anchoring off the Gambia River. Sending a boat up the river to the colony of Bathurst St Mary's [Banjul, The Gambia]: 'I intended going with it but the distance being so great that it would have been impossible for me to have got on shore'. Edward Sabine and some officers visiting Bird Island [Ile des Oiseaux, off Senegal], 'but the boat being so full I could not get a seat in it'. Sabine bringing back specimens 'but there were none of them particularly curious'
(2 Feb 1822) Sailing closer to the river. Anchoring in the morning. The boat sent out the previous day returning. Sailing again. Anchoring at St Mary Bathurst [Banjul]. The country low and covered with mangroves
(3 Feb 1822) Visiting the shore. The country and vegetation dry and parched. Seeing plants including Rhisaphora [Rhizophora], Avicennia africana, Celtis, 'perhaps orientalis [Celtis orientalis] but they were neither in flower nor fruit', Adamsonia, and a species of Coccoloba. Close to the river seeing plenty of large flowering Ipomoea, date palms, Plumbago zeylanica, Capparis floribunda, Dodonoea and many curious Graminae [Gramineae]
(4 Feb 1822) Arranging specimens collected the previous day. Visiting the shore in the afternoon to see the small gardens in the colony. Seeing Convolvulus batatas [Ipomoea batatas], Musa paradisiaca, Musa sapientum, Hibiscus esculentus [Abelmoschus esculentus], Arachis hypogaea and Phaseolus caracalla [Cochliasanthus caracalla], 'but I understand they cultivate several English culinary plants such as radishes and others that come quick to perfection'. Seeing a beautiful Soranthus with scarlet flowers and Typha angustifolia outside the town
Seeing for the first time the process of extracting wine from the Elais guineensis [Elaeis guineensis] and 'the beating of the bangees [added above the line in pencil: 'a musical instrument'] which is the principal amusement of the natives'. John Smith shooting birds, 'many of them beautiful'. Seeing a great number of swallows
Hiring a canoe with Edward Sabine and Smith to return on board, 'but the current of the river was so very strong and our canoe man so weak, we were drifting fast down the river, which obliged us to hail the ship for a boat which was sent and we got on board'
(5 Feb 1822) Arranging specimens and seeds. Sailing. Anchoring to land the pilot. Sailing again
(6 Feb 1822) Anchoring opposite Cape Roxo [Guinea-Bissau and Senegal]. Sending a boat to the shore, 'but as soon as the boat landed they were overpowered by the natives armed with bows and arrows which obliged the boat's crew to retreat'. In the evening sending three manned and armed boats along the Rio Grande river [Rio Grande de Buba, Guinea-Bissau] in search of 'slave vessels'
(8 Feb 1822) Sailing towards Rio Grande [Rio Grande de Buba, Guinea-Bissau]
(12 Feb 1822) Running aground near Cape Verga [Cap Verga, Guinea] in the morning. The tide clearing the ship
(15 Feb 1822) Boats sent on 6 Feb returning at 2am with news of a 'slave vessel' under Portuguese protection. Sending the boats back to capture the vessel
(16 Feb 1822) Sailing for Sierra Leone
(18 Feb 1822) Anchoring off Freetown, Sierra Leone
(19 Feb 1822) Going on shore to find lodgings, but 'did not succeed as there is no possibility of getting anything like lodgings here without paying a most immoderate sum for them'. Not finding the governor [Charles MacCarthy, British governor of Sierra Leone] at home
(20 Feb 1822) Charles MacCarthy returning
(21 Feb 1822) Going on shore 'to see how I was to be situated'. Finding that Charles MacCarthy and Edward Sabine had agreed that Don would be sent to the governor's farm on a hill above Freetown. Being introduced to the governor by Sabine. Packing boxes on board
(22 Feb 1822) Bringing boxes on shore in the morning. Having to wait for Charles MacCarthy and Edward Sabine to return from an outing. MacCarthy lending Don a mule to carry him up the hill to the farm. Seeing plants including wild pineapples, a species of Bombax ('perhaps pentandria [Ceiba pentandra]'), yellow plums, Spondias, 'beautiful trees of Afzelia?', Costus and Ammonum Afzelii [Amomum afzelii] ('common')
Being shown around the garden ('an acre of ground cultivated') by the gardener. Seeing among English vegetables and 'native culinary plants', 'a curious species of Hibiscus which they use in the place of sorrel', large fields of cassava (Jatropha Manichot) [Manihot esculenta], clerodendron with clusters of scarlet flowers, another species with white flowers, 'an excellent fruit, Tonsella, […] a plant belonging to the natural order Hippocraticia [Hippocratea]' and one or two species of Epidendrum
(23 Feb 1822) Being kept awake by 'the howling of wild animals and with mosquitoes'. Hiring two 'Kroo men [Krumen] to travel with me and carry whatever I should find'
(24 Feb 1822) Visiting White Man's Bay [Sierra Leone], near Freetown [Sierra Leone]. Seeing large Bombax trees, and a 'curious sensitive mimosa'. Pineapples so plentiful under the trees 'that I found great difficulty in making my way through amongst them'. Sleeping in the barracks [at Fort Thornton, Freetown, Sierra Leone]
(25 Feb 1822) Getting up early to return to the governor's farm, 'but the morning being so close and the hill being so steep which I had to climb to reach the farm that I was much fatigued before I reached it'. Finding some interesting plants including Epidendrum, Costus afer and Zingiber by a rivulet in the afternoon. Preserving them in spirits
(26 Feb 1822) Collecting fern specimens. Climbing in nearby mountains. Finding on the summit a small farm owned by an old woman, a Nova Scotian settler [Sierra Leone settlers; former enslaved people and free African Americans who founded Freetown, Sierra Leone], 'the only one I believe now remaining in the colony'. Seeing in her fields cassava, sweet potatoes and pineapples ('from which she makes a very pleasant kind of wine'), rough-skinned plum (Parinarium) [Parinari excelsa] and Maranta arundinacea. Seeing rosemary, thyme and fennel in the small garden. On the way back seeing several species of Passiflora, Modecca and cotton
(27 Feb 1822) Being busily employed in finding trees with Epidendrum on them. Finding a beautiful plant 'resembling our fine Neottia'. Seeing several baboons or chimpanzees for the first time
(28 Feb 1822) Going to Regent Town [Regent, Sierra Leone]. The road there very good. The country covered in large trees, including a beautiful mimosa and large Combretum trees ('perhaps racemosum [Combretum racemosum]'). Returning 'much fatigued'
(1 Mar 1822) 'Herbalising' beside a brook between Freetown and the governor's farm. Seeing for the first time 'the country cherry of the natives, a tree belonging to the order Terebintaceae', the fruit unripe, the tree about 40 feet high with several species of Epidendrum on it. Acrostichum stemarium [Platycerium stemaris] very common on the tops of the largest trees
(2 Mar 1822) Collecting specimens down the river
(3 Mar 1822) Visiting Freetown [Sierra Leone] to try to find seeds of the red water tree. Finding the tree in the middle of the street, neither in fruit nor flower. Collecting seeds along the river, including two 'singular' species of Rhexia. Seeing plenty of pineapples. The largest trees the country plum and Bombax pentandre [Ceiba pentandra]
(4 Mar 1822) Going along a valley south-west of Freetown [Sierra Leone] at daybreak. Being 'fortunate in meeting with many interesting plants beside a rivulet, but this place was so infested with snakes, which rendered it dangerous'. Seeing a yellow and a green snake. Seeing the butter and tallow tree in fruit and the sweet and sour piscimmon [pishamin] ['piscimmon' crossed out and added in pencil above: 'shamon'] ('both excellent fruits'). Gathering bulbs of 'a liliaceous plant, perhaps an Albuca, a curious species of Caladium'. Returning 'before dark, much fatigued with my day's journey'
(5 Mar 1822) Feeling 'a little feverish' in the morning. Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] to enquire after Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus], 'but could gain no information about it from Dr Nicoll [Andrew Nicoll, medical officer in Sierra Leone], who is one of the most intelligent persons in the colony'. Finding information concerning the butter and tallow tree and other esculent and medicinal plants. Collecting specimens of black plum resembling a horse chestnut tree growing in one of the streets
(6 Mar 1822) Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] to have breakfast with Andrew Nicoll. Setting out with Dr Barry [William Barry, deputy inspector of hospitals in Sierra Leone] for Congo Town [Sierra Leone]. Seeing many plants in flower on the way, but few in seed, including many varieties of Sansaberia guiniensis [Sansevieria hyacinthoides] 'which tends to confound the many species which Mr Haworth [Adrian Hardy Haworth, botanist] has described'
Finding a beautiful species of Combretum with scarlet flowers and white floral leaves on the return journey. Returning in the afternoon and dining at Nicoll's, 'after which Dr N proposed going out in the morning early, so I was prevailed upon to stop all night'
(7 Mar 1822) In the morning Andrew Nicoll feverish and unable to go out. Going to Krootown [Kroo Bay, Sierra Leone] before breakfast to find Bombax seeds, but not finding ripe ones. Seeing a beautiful octandrious plant with scarlet flowers ('Combretum species?'). Returning for breakfast and meeting Edward Sabine. A ship due to sail to England the following day 'when I might send any boxes which I had'
Riding on horseback to Gloucester Town [Gloucester, Sierra Leone] and Liester Hill [Leicester, Sierra Leone] with William Barry, seven or eight miles away. Visiting on the way the 'Hospital for the Captured Negroes [later renamed the Sierra Leone Psychiatric Hospital] where there were many of the people from the vessel which the Iphigenia [HMS Iphigenia] boats had taken (a few days before) in a most miserable condition'. Finding near the hospital a beautiful tree with bell shaped flowers, probably belonging to the natural order Gentiana. Describing the country as rugged, 'but there is a beautiful species of Combretum, very common, which has a glorious effect'. Returning in the evening. Dining with Nicoll and staying the night
(8 Mar 1822) Returning from Andrew Nicoll's house to the governor's farm at 6am. Preparing specimens for packing
(9 Mar 1822) Packing seeds and specimens. In the afternoon planting a box of Epidendrum. Collecting specimens of guinea pepper and sugar plum
(10 Mar 1822) Preparing seeds for packing
(11 Mar 1822) Packing two boxes, of specimens and seeds
(12 Mar 1822) Sending three boxes to Edward Sabine to put them on board the James, a brig sailing to England via Gambia. Searching for Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus] but not finding it. Seeing orange plants and a curious species of Gardenia
(13 Mar 1822) Searching for the fruits of country cherry and sugar plum, succeeding in finding ripe fruit of both. Planting two scitamineous plants
(14 Mar 1822) Going down the valley near the chief justice's [Edward Fitzgerald, British chief justice in Sierra Leone] farm. Seeing a curious species of fern growing along with Acrostichum stemaria [Platycerium stemaris] on a large tree of Parinarium
(15 Mar 1822) Planting a box to send to England. Going to Mr Macauly's [Kenneth Macaulay, merchant and colonial official in Sierra Leone] farm three miles away, to see a tree of African mammee apple, 'but the distance was so great that I could not reach it that night'. Seeing a strange broad-leaved Bambusa. Returning an hour after dark
(16 Mar 1822) Going about eight miles west of Freetown [Sierra Leone]. Searching for young cola plants (Sterculia acuminata) [Cola acuminata], but finding none small enough. Seeing on the roadsides Cecropia, sugar plum, rough-skinned plum ('Parinarium species') and Bombax 'to an immense size'. Returning at 8pm 'much fatigued'
(17 Mar 1822) Preparing specimens and seeds for packing
(18 Mar 1822) Catching a few curious Lepidopleurus insects. Discarding insects that had been destroyed by ants. Edward Sabine sending a note saying that Captain Finlayson [William Finlaison, captain of HMS Morgiana] intended to sail to London the following day. Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] for boxes
(19 Mar 1822) Packing three boxes, one containing living plants, the second seeds and the third fruits. Sending them to Edward Sabine to put on board
(20 Mar 1822) Cutting down trees that had Epidendrum on them and finding two he had not seen before
(21 Mar 1822) Going to Synal Hill [Signal Hill, Sierra Leone]. Catching several Lepidopleris [Lepidopleurus] insects on the way. Finding a beautiful species of Combretum with umbels of fine scarlet flowers, bearing a ripe seed. Seeing another species of Combretum in the clear and barren plains, with habit 'very different to any other species of this genus, but the seed vessel exactly agreeing with the rest'. Finding a beautiful shrub resembling Persian lilac, 'and also having the same scent, belonging to the same class and order (Dialium guineensis [Dialium guineense])'. The roadside near the top of the hill covered with a beautiful species of Ipomoea. Collecting Epidendrum. Seeing Spathodia laevis [Newbouldia laevis] and Xylopia undulata [Monodora undulata]. Returning in the evening 'famished with hunger and rather feverish with a great difficulty in breathing'
(22 Mar 1822) Visiting a hill five or six miles south of Freetown [Sierra Leone] in the morning to see the mammee apple, but the tree too high to ascertain the form of the leaves. Seeing three species of Passiflora, none of them in flower but one resembling Passiflora quadrangularis. Seeing a species of Melastoma he had not seen before, 'which now makes the 6th species I have found here'. Seeing for the first time the Glycine subterrania [Vigna subterranea] [annotated: 'cultivated and the seed used as pulse']. Seeing a large tree with a platanous shaped leaf, 'which the natives call the pomegranate', and described as an excellent fruit. Seeing two species of Epidendrum
(23 Mar 1822) Going to Kessey Town [Kissy, Sierra Leone], three miles from Freetown [Sierra Leone], 'but a distance of five miles for me as living at the governor's farm'. Seeing a fine species of Bletia or Cyrtopodium. Taking up roots. Seeing for the first time fruit of the monkey apple, about the size of a dove's egg, oval shaped and reddish, its flavour 'between nectarine and plum'. Seeing some 'strange' Epidendrum growing on stones by a riverside. Seeing Eulophia guineensis growing at the base of the trees. Collecting all these Epidendrum 'and returned in the evening well loaded'
(24 Mar 1822) Seeing deer feeding in the governor's garden: 'they seemed to be rather tame as I got as near them as a hundred yards'. Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] after breakfast to order a box for living plants. Going to look for young plants of monkey bread trees in the garden of Mr Kennedy, 'a sort of merchant in the town', but finding none. 'The sky this evening from appearance threatening a tornado. I hurried home as quick as possible'
(25 Mar 1822) Looking through specimens. Laying aside dried ones. Collecting Lepidopleurus insects [The following has been crossed out: Treading on a box with nails protruding, 'one of which went in to my foot a considerable distance, which is now very painful']
[The following entry has been crossed out: (26 Mar) 'My foot being so very painful and likewise festering I amused myself in making a list of the esculent vegetables of Sierra Leone']
(27 Mar 1822) Going to Wellington Town [Wellington, Sierra Leone], three miles beyond Kesey Town [Kissy, Sierra Leone]. [The following has been crossed out: Going slowly with the painful foot: 'I was almost determined to return but I collected some silk cotton and freed it from the seeds and put it in my shoe under the sore after which I went pretty easy']. Collecting seeds of a beautiful Cainito [Chrysophyllum cainito] and roots of the Bletia or Cyrtopodium, first seen a few days ago
Stopping at a house in Wellington for refreshment. Returning a different way. Seeing a beautiful white variety of Melastoma grandiflora [Rhynchanthera grandiflora], 'which is the plant I have termed Osbeckia'. Finding a large bulb of a Caladium. Returning at 1am [the following has been crossed out: 'owing to the pain of my foot']
(28 Mar 1822) [The following has been crossed out: Not going out due to his painful foot]. Arranging the box of insects. Checking specimens to see if they were keeping free of insects
(29 Mar 1822) [The following has been crossed out: His foot better]. Going to King Tom's point [Kingtom, Sierra Leone]. Seeing a beautiful species of Combretum different from those seen before, the fifth species of the genus seen in Sierra Leone: 'now I do not know which of them to prefer for beauty'. Seeing a curious species of Limodorum ('Eulophia species?') with green flowers. The most common trees the butter and tallow tree, 'the Christmas bush of the negroes' and monkey apple [added on the blank opposite page: 'this tree and seed of the [illegible word] bush which is a very beautiful[?]']. Almost getting lost in the thicket due to multiple paths. Finding a canna. Returning after dark [the following has been crossed out: the pain in his foot 'beyond description' after the walk]
(30 Mar 1822) Packing up seeds and arranging specimens. Collecting insects
(31 Mar 1822) A 'tornado' in the night with thunder and lightning. Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] for packing boxes
(1 Apr 1822) Setting off at 6am on horseback for the Sugar Loaf Mountain [Sierra Leone]. Edward Sabine having discovered two bulbs of Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus] when measuring the height of the mountain. Seeing a curious species of Salvia (Brillantacea) [Brillantaisia]. In Regent Town [Regent, Sierra Leone] stopping for breakfast with Rev William Johnston [William Johnson, missionary in Sierra Leone], who 'sent me a man as a guide to the top of the mountain'. Seeing trees related to Guiacum officinale [Guaiacum officinale] and to Laurus cassia [Cinnamomum cassia] at the top. Resting for half an hour. Looking for Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus]. Finding a curious bulb growing among the stones resembling Ixia or Gladiolus, neither in flower nor leaf, and a species of Caladium with pinnated leaves and prickly stems
Returning to Johnson's in the afternoon to dine. Returning home at dusk. Beautiful view over the towns on the peninsula and the islands in the river from the top of the mountain. Intending to go to Kent [Sierra Leone] the following day with Mr Laing, 'adjutant of the regiment here' [Alexander Gordon Laing, explorer and captain in the Royal African Colonial Corps]
(2 Apr 1822) Leaving the farm at 6am. Breakfasting with Kenneth Macaulay, a local merchant, and then 'got our things put in the boat and rowed off' with Alexander Gordon Laing, Signor Altavilla [Joao Jacomo Altavilla, judge of the Mixed British and Portuguese Commission at Sierra Leone] and John Smith. Seeing Bombax trees
Arriving at the settlement of York [Sierra Leone], 30 miles from Freetown [Sierra Leone]. Going to Mr Johnston's ('the superintendent of the settlement') house to dine. In the afternoon walking along a beach covered in Sansaveria guineensis [Sansavieria guineensis]. Seeing Hymenaea courbaril growing on small islands
(3 Apr 1822) Alexander Gordon Laing and Joao Jacomo Altavilla leaving the rest of the party to go to Waterloo [Sierra Leone]. Don and John Smith going to Kent [Sierra Leone] 12 miles away. Keeping to the beach covered in Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus]. Collecting 200 bulbs: 'the bulbs are always separate, you never find them joined together as in England'
Arriving at a deep river, and having to strip and cross in the shallowest place, as directed by the locals, immersed up to their necks in water. Arriving in Kent [Sierra Leone] at 9pm, 'where we were very kindly treated by Mr Beckle [Thomas Stuart Buckle, surveyor and engineer in Sierra Leone] the superintendent'. Sending for the boat in the morning
(4 Apr 1822) Wandering in the bush for a few hours in the morning. Collecting seeds of a 'curious' species of Cacoloba [Coccoloba]. John Smith
Extent - 1 volume
Repository - Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library
Copyright - © Royal Horticultural Society
Credit Line - RHS Lindley Collections
Usage terms - Non-commercial use with attribution permitted (CC BY-NC 4.0)