Second rough version of George Don's journal (volume 1 of 2)
Information
Title - Second rough version of George Don's journal (volume 1 of 2)
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/2/1/3
Date - 13 Nov 1821-31 May 1822
Scope & content - Second rough version (volume 1 of 2) of George Don's travel journal, 13 Nov 1821-31 May 1822, describing the journey from England to St Thomas [Sao Tome and Principe]
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-85: Narrative of travel, 13 Nov 1821-31 May 1822
Pages 86-88: Blank
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled 'Journal first, from England to the Island of St Thomas in Africa from Novem 13th 1821 to June the 1th 1822 (G. Don). 4'. Dimensions: 32 (h) x 20.5 (w) cm. Conserved in 2018: the binding and pages were cleaned and repairs were carried out to both; a loose enclosure relating to the entry of 25 Apr 1822 was attached to the blank facing page during conservation
This volume is the first of two volumes of the rough second copy of George Don's journal. For the second volume of the rough second copy, 2 Jun 1822-27 Feb 1823, see RHS/Col/2/1/4. For the first rough copy, 13 Nov 1821-7 Feb 1823, see RHS/Col/2/1/1-2. For the fair copy of the journal, 13 Nov 1821-13 Jan 1823, see RHS/Col/2/1/5
The volume is written in George Don's hand, on rectos only. There are occasional annotations, additions and crossings out in Don's hand in pencil on the versos, in the margins and between the lines. Substantial annotations are included in the description and identified as such
The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Loose papers with lists of plants and a list of Don's belongings on HMS Pheasant were previously enclosed at the rear of the volume. These papers have been transferred to RHS/Col/2/3 (see RHS/Col/2/3/7, RHS/Col/2/3/9, RHS/Col/2/3/10 and RHS/Col/2/3/14)
Summary of contents:
(13 Nov 1821) Leaving London with Captain Sabine [Edward Sabine, geophysicist, naturalist and astronomer, brother of Joseph Sabine, secretary of the RHS] to join HMS Iphigenia
(14 Nov 1821) Arriving at Portsmouth in the morning. Staying at the George Inn. Visiting local gardens and seeing Medicago arborea, Myrtus and Lauristinus, 'finer than I had ever seen before'
(17 Nov 1821) On board the ship, but not sailing. South-westerly wind
(20 Nov 1821) Sailing from Portsmouth. Progress slow as winds strong and westerly
(21 Nov 1821) Westerly wind, strong breezes and cloudy
(22 Nov 1821) Anchoring off Weymouth
(23 Nov 1821) 'Being much exhausted by sea sickness'. Going on shore with Edward Sabine. Visiting Portland Rocks [Isle of Portland] in the afternoon, 'to endeavour to procure some plants of the true Euphorbia portlandica'. Not finding it, but seeing Iris foetidissima, Oenanthe peucedanoides [unidentified], Juncus maritimus, Elymus geniculatus and Eryngium maritimum
(24 Nov 1821) Visiting small local gardens. Seeing Origanum pseudodictamnus [Origanum dictamnus], Marrubium pseudodictamnus [Ballota pseudodictamnus], Cineraria maritima [Jacobaea maritima] and Medicago arborea
(25 Nov 1821) Going on board
(31 Nov 1821) Asking the commanding officer [Robert Mends, captain of HMS Iphigenia] for a boat to Portland Rocks, 'having plenty of time on my hands'. Seeing plants including Conysa thapsoids [Conyza thapsoides], Glaucium luteum [Glaucium flavum], a curious variety of Rosa spinosissima with oblong red fruit, Euphorbia amygdaloides and Silene maritima [Silene uniflora] [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants]
(6 Dec 1821) Sailing from Weymouth. Moderate breezes
(7 Dec 1821) Strong southerly breezes with squalls
(14 Dec 1821) Westerly winds. 'Returned in latitude 44.43 longitude 10.58 west'
(19 Dec 1821) Anchoring in Torbay
(20 Dec 1821) Going on shore to Brixham. Edward Sabine visiting Teignmouth
(21 Dec 1821) Going out in the morning to see the countryside. Seeing Cotyledon umbilicus [Umbilicus rupestris] 'with leaves sometimes as large as a twopenny piece', Rubia peregrina, Rubia tinctoria [Rubia tinctorum], and between Upper and Lower Brixham, Cistus guttatus [Tuberaria guttata]
(24 Dec 1821) Winds changing to more favourable east-north-easterly. The ship preparing to sail. Don staying on shore to wait for the last boat with some prisoners[?] and officers, but having difficulties boarding the ship due to the gale and surf caused by the rising wind: 'almost swamped in the attempt'. The commodore [Robert Mends] sailing without the party due to the dangerous conditions. Don returning to the inn to dry his clothes
(25 Dec 1821) Leaving Brixham in the direction of Plymouth, hoping to find the ship. Taking a boat to Dartmouth, six miles away, and hiring a pilot boat to Plymouth: 'hoisted our small boat on board her and put to sea'
(26 Dec 1821) Arriving at Plymouth at 4am. After going on shore for breakfast, the officers informing the admiral of the situation. The admiral sending the party on board the Pygmy schooner [HMS Pigmy] to search for the Iphigenia [HMS Iphigenia], 'which he heard was at Plymouth'
(27 Dec 1821) Hearing that the ship had returned to Torbay
(29 Dec 1821) On board the HMS Pigmy. Due to high winds the commander [Thomas Hills, commander of HMS Pigmy] refusing to sail. Don and one of the midshipmen ('who is now dead') deciding to walk to Torbay, 32 miles away. Due to the rain, spending the night in Totnes, 24 miles from Plymouth
(30 Dec 1821) Hiring a car [carriage] to Torbay from Totnes. Hiring a boat to go on board the ship
(31 Dec 1821) Sailing from Torbay. Seeing HMS Pigmy at a distance. The rest of the officers and prisoners[?] joining the ship. North-westerly wind
(1 Jan 1822) Slow sailing, the south-westerly winds still against them. Anchoring in Plymouth
(2 Jan 1822) Saluting the admiral. Going on shore in the afternoon. Rain all evening
(3 Jan 1822) On board the ship
(4 Jan 1822) Sailing from Torbay with a more favourable north-easterly wind
(11 Jan 1822) Arriving at Funchal, Madeira [Portugal]. Saluting the governor [Rodrigo Antonio de Melo, Portuguese governor of Madeira]. Landing at Funchal with Mr Viech [Henry Veitch, British consul in Funchal, Madeira, Portugal, travelling on the ship], Edward Sabine and some of the officers. Passing through the Custom House. Staying at Veitch's house
Visiting his garden in the afternoon. Not seeing much, it being a wet mid-winter day. Seeing in the garden esculent [edible] vegetables and other plants, including Mangifera indica, Musa paradisiaca and Musa sapientum ('cultivated extensively in all the small gardens here'), Nerium oleander, large trees of Dracaena draco, Erythrina speciosa, 'among many other curious plants, but these being neither flower nor fruit I could not ascertain what they were' [here the journal includes a list of approximately 25 more plants]
Returning through the town: 'the streets are very narrow and confined, which in my opinion must render it very unwholesome'
(12 Jan 1822) Visiting Palmara [Madeira, Portugal], a mile away, to see Mr Blackburn's [Henry Blackburn, merchant in Madeira] gardens, 'an opulent merchant and who was a passenger on board the Iphigenia [HMS Iphigenia]'. Admiring the gardens with fine groves of orange, lemon, guava, plantations of coffee, sugar cane, 'and, I believe, the finest vineyards'. Seeing plants including Sempervivum canariense [Aeonium canariense], Aloe barbadensis, several varieties of Opuntia, Ruta pinnata, Globularia longifolia [here the journal includes a list of approximately 10 more plants]. Collecting specimens of ferns
(13 Jan 1822) Visiting Peak of Ruivo [Pico Ruivo, Madeira] on horseback with Edward Sabine, Captain Clevering [Douglas Charles Clavering, captain of HMS Pheasant], Robert Mends, Mr Whitlaw [Robert Whitelaw, surgeon on HMS Iphigenia], Henry Blackburn and Smith [John Smith, Edward Sabine's assistant]
Seeing plants including Arum esculentum [Colocasia esculenta] ('which goes under the name of yams by the natives'), Erica arborea ('an immense size, some of them 6 feet in circumference'), sweet chestnut, and 'at the height of 4,000 feet I saw a small peak covered with Sempervivum tabulare and Lycopodium denticulatum [Selaginella denticulata]' [here the journal includes a list of approximately 10 more plants]
Returning to the valley, unable to continue up the mountain on horseback. Sabine, 'not being perfectly satisfied with the observations he made here', climbing to the peak with Robert Whitelaw. Don and the rest of the party returning down. The forests at 5,000 feet covered with plants including Laurus indica, Ilex perado, Sideroxylon inerme, Clethra arborea and Salix canariensis [here the journal includes a list of 4 more plants]. The valleys filled with several species of Laurus, and the mountains covered with Spartium scoparium and Pteris aquilina [Pteridium aquilinium]. 'The country here is beautiful far beyond description'. Stopping under trees by a rivulet to wait for Sabine and Whitelaw and 'to refresh ourselves with what victuals we had brought with us'. Returning to Funchal at midnight with Captain Sabine
(14 Jan 1822) Writing a letter [to Joseph Sabine; for the letter, 14 Jan 1822, see RHS/Col/2/4/7]. Preparing for sailing
(15 Jan 1822) Sailing from Funchal [Madeira]
(17 Jan 1822) Anchoring off Santa Cruz, Teneriffe [Tenerife, Canary Islands]: 'this island is similar in appearance to Madeira, but the town is much cleaner and the streets much wider'. The mountains covered in plants including Euphorbia piscatoria, Agave americana, Lavandula pinnata, Lappago racemosa and Opuntia decumanus [Opuntia maxima], 'the same as Mr Anderson [?James Anderson, botanist] received from Mexico to a great size' [here the journal includes a list of approximately 20 more plants]. Temperature 69°
A gun fired as a signal from the ship for everyone to board at 3pm, 'so we had to be as expeditious as possible in getting our things ready'. Sailing from Santa Cruz
(18 Jan 1822) Still in sight of Teneriffe [Tenerife]. The weather calm and hazy
(24 Jan 1822) Coming in sight of the Cape de Verd Islands [Cabo Verde]. Seeing the mountainous islands of St Antonio [Santo Antao, Cabo Verde] and St Vincent [Sao Vicente, Cabo Verde]. Seeing a ship in a bay 'which they supposed to be a slave vessel, but on sending a boat it was found to be an American South Sea whaler'. Seeing flying fish for the first time
(25 Jan 1822) Passing the island of Fogo [Cabo Verde] to the west and St Jago [Santiago, Cabo Verde] to the east
(26 Jan 1822) Anchoring off Porto Praya [Praia, Santiago, Cabo Verde]. Landing with Edward Sabine 'in the valley of La Trinidad [Trindade, Santiago]'. Seeing Phoenix dactylifera and Gossypium arboretum, 'yielding the finest cotton I ever saw'. The island dry with nothing green apart from some coconut trees. Spending the few hours on the island seeing plants including Lotus jacobaeous, Cassia occidentalis [Senna occidentalis], Aloe barbadense ('in flower which has a beautiful appearance'), Physalis somnifera [Withania somnifera] and Asclepias gigantea [Calotropis gigantea] [here the journal includes a list of approximately 10 more plants]. Collecting seeds and specimens
The town 'a row or two of most miserable huts thatched with date palm leaves'. John Smith shooting birds, including a curious owl. Arranging the collected specimens on board
(27 Jan 1822) Going on shore before daybreak with a fishing party. The fishermen catching 'innumerable quantities of fish'. Don climbing nearby mountains. Seeing groves of Jatropha curcas. The mountains barren and dry. The hill and valley covered with Polypogon, various species of Sida, Cardiospermum, various species of Convolvulus and Ipomea [Ipomoea] in flower, 'the only green vegetable I saw'
Returning on board the ship at 9am. Going back on shore to collect insects. Going on board with the commodore [Robert Mends] in the evening
(28 Jan 1822) Sailing from St Jago [Santiago]
(31 Jan 1822) Seeing the coast of Africa, low and covered with trees. Edward Sabine going on shore on the island of Goree [Goree, Senegal]. Saluting the port. French officers from nearby vessels visiting on board. Sabine bringing back specimens of Argemone mexicana, 'the only vegetable that he saw on the island with the exception of a few cocoa nut [coconut] trees'. The island reminding Don of Inchkeith in Scotland, 'if it had been destitute of houses'. Sailing towards the Gambia River [Guinea, Senegal and The Gambia] in the evening
(1 Feb 1822) Anchoring off the Gambia River. Sending a boat up the river to the colony of Bathurst St Mary's [Banjul, The Gambia]: 'I intended going with it but the distance being so great that it would have been impossible for me to have got on shore'. Edward Sabine and some officers visiting Bird Island [Ile des Oiseaux, off Senegal], 'but the boat being so full I could not get a seat in it'. Sabine bringing back specimens 'but there were none of them particularly curious'
(2 Feb 1822) Sailing closer to the river. Anchoring in the morning. The boat sent out the previous day returning. Sailing again. Anchoring at St Mary Bathurst [Banjul]. The country low and covered with mangroves
(3 Feb 1822) Visiting the shore. The country and vegetation dry and parched. Seeing plants including Rhisaphora [Rhizophora], Avicennia africana, Celtis, 'perhaps orientalis [Celtis orientalis] but they were neither in flower nor fruit', Adamsonia, and a species of Coccoloba. Close to the river seeing plenty of large flowering Ipomoea, date palms, Plumbago zeylanica, Capparis floribunda, Dodonoea and many curious Graminae [Gramineae]
(4 Feb 1822) Arranging specimens collected the previous day. Visiting the shore in the afternoon to see the small gardens in the colony. Seeing Convolvulus batatas [Ipomoea batatas], Musa paradisiaca, Musa sapientum, Hibiscus esculentus [Abelmoschus esculentus], Arachis hypogaea and Phaseolus caracalla [Cochliasanthus caracalla], 'but I understand they cultivate several English culinary plants such as radishes and others that come quick to perfection'. Seeing a beautiful Soranthus with scarlet flowers and Typha angustifolia outside the town
Seeing for the first time the process of extracting wine from the Elais guineensis [Elaeis guineensis] and 'the beating of the bangees [added above the line in pencil: 'a musical instrument'] which is the principal amusement of the natives'. John Smith shooting birds, 'many of them beautiful'. Seeing a great number of swallows
Hiring a canoe with Edward Sabine and Smith to return on board, 'but the current of the river was so very strong and our canoe man so weak, we were drifting fast down the river, which obliged us to hail the ship for a boat which was sent and we got on board'
(5 Feb 1822) Arranging specimens and seeds. Sailing. Anchoring to land the pilot. Sailing again
(6 Feb 1822) Anchoring opposite Cape Roxo [Guinea-Bissau and Senegal]. Sending a boat to the shore, 'but as soon as the boat landed they were overpowered by the natives armed with bows and arrows which obliged the boat's crew to retreat'. In the evening sending three manned and armed boats along the Rio Grande river [Rio Grande de Buba, Guinea-Bissau] in search of 'slave vessels'
(8 Feb 1822) Sailing towards Rio Grande [Rio Grande de Buba, Guinea-Bissau]
(12 Feb 1822) Running aground near Cape Verga [Cap Verga, Guinea] in the morning. The tide clearing the ship
(15 Feb 1822) Boats sent on 6 Feb returning at 2am with news of a 'slave vessel' under Portuguese protection. Sending the boats back to capture the vessel
(16 Feb 1822) Sailing for Sierra Leone
(18 Feb 1822) Anchoring off Freetown, Sierra Leone
(19 Feb 1822) Going on shore to find lodgings, but 'did not succeed as there is no possibility of getting anything like lodgings here without paying a most immoderate sum for them'. Not finding the governor [Charles MacCarthy, British governor of Sierra Leone] at home
(20 Feb 1822) Charles MacCarthy returning
(21 Feb 1822) Going on shore 'to see how I was to be situated'. Finding that Charles MacCarthy and Edward Sabine had agreed that Don would be sent to the governor's farm on a hill above Freetown. Being introduced to the governor by Sabine. Packing boxes on board
(22 Feb 1822) Bringing boxes on shore in the morning. Having to wait for Charles MacCarthy and Edward Sabine to return from an outing. MacCarthy lending Don a mule to carry him up the hill to the farm. Seeing plants including wild pineapples, a species of Bombax ('perhaps pentandria [Ceiba pentandra]'), yellow plums, Spondias, 'beautiful trees of Afzelia?', Costus and Ammonum Afzelii [Amomum afzelii] ('common')
Being shown around the garden ('an acre of ground cultivated') by the gardener. Seeing among English vegetables and 'native culinary plants', 'a curious species of Hibiscus which they use in the place of sorrel', large fields of cassava (Jatropha Manichot) [Manihot esculenta], clerodendron with clusters of scarlet flowers, another species with white flowers, 'an excellent fruit, Tonsella, […] a plant belonging to the natural order Hippocraticia [Hippocratea]' and one or two species of Epidendrum
(23 Feb 1822) Being kept awake by 'the howling of wild animals and with mosquitoes'. Hiring two 'Kroo men [Krumen] to travel with me and carry whatever I should find'
(24 Feb 1822) Visiting White Man's Bay [Sierra Leone], near Freetown [Sierra Leone]. Seeing large Bombax trees, and a 'curious sensitive mimosa'. Pineapples so plentiful under the trees 'that I found great difficulty in making my way through amongst them'. Sleeping in the barracks [at Fort Thornton, Freetown, Sierra Leone]
(25 Feb 1822) Getting up early to return to the governor's farm, 'but the morning being so close and the hill being so steep which I had to climb to reach the farm that I was much fatigued before I reached it'. Finding some interesting plants including Epidendrum, Costus afer and Zingiber by a rivulet in the afternoon. Preserving them in spirits
(26 Feb 1822) Collecting fern specimens. Climbing in nearby mountains. Finding on the summit a small farm owned by an old woman, a Nova Scotian settler [Sierra Leone settlers; former enslaved people and free African Americans who founded Freetown, Sierra Leone], 'the only one I believe now remaining in the colony'. Seeing in her fields cassava, sweet potatoes and pineapples ('from which she makes a very pleasant kind of wine'), rough-skinned plum (Parinarium) [Parinari excelsa] and Maranta arundinacea. Seeing rosemary, thyme and fennel in the small garden. On the way back seeing several species of Passiflora, Modecca and cotton
(27 Feb 1822) Being busily employed in finding trees with Epidendrum on them. Finding a beautiful plant 'resembling our fine Neottia'. Seeing several baboons or chimpanzees for the first time
(28 Feb 1822) Going to Regent Town [Regent, Sierra Leone]. The road there very good. The country covered in large trees, including a beautiful mimosa and large Combretum trees ('perhaps racemosum [Combretum racemosum]'). Returning 'much fatigued'
(1 Mar 1822) 'Herbalising' beside a brook between Freetown and the governor's farm. Seeing for the first time 'the country cherry of the natives, a tree belonging to the order Terebintaceae', the fruit unripe, the tree about 40 feet high with several species of Epidendrum on it. Acrostichum stemarium [Platycerium stemaris] very common on the tops of the largest trees
(2 Mar 1822) Collecting specimens down the river
(3 Mar 1822) Visiting Freetown [Sierra Leone] to try to find seeds of the red water tree. Finding the tree in the middle of the street, neither in fruit nor flower. Collecting seeds along the river, including two 'singular' species of Rhexia. Seeing plenty of pineapples. The largest trees the country plum and Bombax pentandre [Ceiba pentandra]
(4 Mar 1822) Going along a valley south-west of Freetown [Sierra Leone] at daybreak. Being 'fortunate in meeting with many interesting plants beside a rivulet, but this place was so infested with snakes, which rendered it dangerous'. Seeing a yellow and a green snake. Seeing the butter and tallow tree in fruit and the sweet and sour piscimmon [pishamin] ['piscimmon' crossed out and added in pencil above: 'shamon'] ('both excellent fruits'). Gathering bulbs of 'a liliaceous plant, perhaps an Albuca, a curious species of Caladium'. Returning 'before dark, much fatigued with my day's journey'
(5 Mar 1822) Feeling 'a little feverish' in the morning. Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] to enquire after Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus], 'but could gain no information about it from Dr Nicoll [Andrew Nicoll, medical officer in Sierra Leone], who is one of the most intelligent persons in the colony'. Finding information concerning the butter and tallow tree and other esculent and medicinal plants. Collecting specimens of black plum resembling a horse chestnut tree growing in one of the streets
(6 Mar 1822) Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] to have breakfast with Andrew Nicoll. Setting out with Dr Barry [William Barry, deputy inspector of hospitals in Sierra Leone] for Congo Town [Sierra Leone]. Seeing many plants in flower on the way, but few in seed, including many varieties of Sansaberia guiniensis [Sansevieria hyacinthoides] 'which tends to confound the many species which Mr Haworth [Adrian Hardy Haworth, botanist] has described'
Finding a beautiful species of Combretum with scarlet flowers and white floral leaves on the return journey. Returning in the afternoon and dining at Nicoll's, 'after which Dr N proposed going out in the morning early, so I was prevailed upon to stop all night'
(7 Mar 1822) In the morning Andrew Nicoll feverish and unable to go out. Going to Krootown [Kroo Bay, Sierra Leone] before breakfast to find Bombax seeds, but not finding ripe ones. Seeing a beautiful octandrious plant with scarlet flowers ('Combretum species?'). Returning for breakfast and meeting Edward Sabine. A ship due to sail to England the following day 'when I might send any boxes which I had'
Riding on horseback to Gloucester Town [Gloucester, Sierra Leone] and Liester Hill [Leicester, Sierra Leone] with William Barry, seven or eight miles away. Visiting on the way the 'Hospital for the Captured Negroes [later renamed the Sierra Leone Psychiatric Hospital] where there were many of the people from the vessel which the Iphigenia [HMS Iphigenia] boats had taken (a few days before) in a most miserable condition'. Finding near the hospital a beautiful tree with bell shaped flowers, probably belonging to the natural order Gentiana. Describing the country as rugged, 'but there is a beautiful species of Combretum, very common, which has a glorious effect'. Returning in the evening. Dining with Nicoll and staying the night
(8 Mar 1822) Returning from Andrew Nicoll's house to the governor's farm at 6am. Preparing specimens for packing
(9 Mar 1822) Packing seeds and specimens. In the afternoon planting a box of Epidendrum. Collecting specimens of guinea pepper and sugar plum
(10 Mar 1822) Preparing seeds for packing
(11 Mar 1822) Packing two boxes, of specimens and seeds
(12 Mar 1822) Sending three boxes to Edward Sabine to put them on board the James, a brig sailing to England via Gambia. Searching for Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus] but not finding it. Seeing orange plants and a curious species of Gardenia
(13 Mar 1822) Searching for the fruits of country cherry and sugar plum, succeeding in finding ripe fruit of both. Planting two scitamineous plants
(14 Mar 1822) Going down the valley near the chief justice's [Edward Fitzgerald, British chief justice in Sierra Leone] farm. Seeing a curious species of fern growing along with Acrostichum stemaria [Platycerium stemaris] on a large tree of Parinarium
(15 Mar 1822) Planting a box to send to England. Going to Mr Macauly's [Kenneth Macaulay, merchant and colonial official in Sierra Leone] farm three miles away, to see a tree of African mammee apple, 'but the distance was so great that I could not reach it that night'. Seeing a strange broad-leaved Bambusa. Returning an hour after dark
(16 Mar 1822) Going about eight miles west of Freetown [Sierra Leone]. Searching for young cola plants (Sterculia acuminata) [Cola acuminata], but finding none small enough. Seeing on the roadsides Cecropia, sugar plum, rough-skinned plum ('Parinarium species') and Bombax 'to an immense size'. Returning at 8pm 'much fatigued'
(17 Mar 1822) Preparing specimens and seeds for packing
(18 Mar 1822) Catching a few curious Lepidopleurus insects. Discarding insects that had been destroyed by ants. Edward Sabine sending a note saying that Captain Finlayson [William Finlaison, captain of HMS Morgiana] intended to sail to London the following day. Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] for boxes
(19 Mar 1822) Packing three boxes, one containing living plants, the second seeds and the third fruits. Sending them to Edward Sabine to put on board
(20 Mar 1822) Cutting down trees that had Epidendrum on them and finding two he had not seen before
(21 Mar 1822) Going to Synal Hill [Signal Hill, Sierra Leone]. Catching several Lepidopleris [Lepidopleurus] insects on the way. Finding a beautiful species of Combretum with umbels of fine scarlet flowers, bearing a ripe seed. Seeing another species of Combretum in the clear and barren plains, with habit 'very different to any other species of this genus, but the seed vessel exactly agreeing with the rest'. Finding a beautiful shrub resembling Persian lilac, 'and also having the same scent, belonging to the same class and order (Dialium guineensis [Dialium guineense])'. The roadside near the top of the hill covered with a beautiful species of Ipomoea. Collecting Epidendrum. Seeing Spathodia laevis [Newbouldia laevis] and Xylopia undulata [Monodora undulata]. Returning in the evening 'famished with hunger and rather feverish with a great difficulty in breathing'
(22 Mar 1822) Visiting a hill five or six miles south of Freetown [Sierra Leone] in the morning to see the mammee apple, but the tree too high to ascertain the form of the leaves. Seeing three species of Passiflora, none of them in flower but one resembling Passiflora quadrangularis. Seeing a species of Melastoma he had not seen before, 'which now makes the 6th species I have found here'. Seeing for the first time the Glycine subterrania [Vigna subterranea] [annotated: 'cultivated and the seed used as pulse']. Seeing a large tree with a platanous shaped leaf, 'which the natives call the pomegranate', and described as an excellent fruit. Seeing two species of Epidendrum
(23 Mar 1822) Going to Kessey Town [Kissy, Sierra Leone], three miles from Freetown [Sierra Leone], 'but a distance of five miles for me as living at the governor's farm'. Seeing a fine species of Bletia or Cyrtopodium. Taking up roots. Seeing for the first time fruit of the monkey apple, about the size of a dove's egg, oval shaped and reddish, its flavour 'between nectarine and plum'. Seeing some 'strange' Epidendrum growing on stones by a riverside. Seeing Eulophia guineensis growing at the base of the trees. Collecting all these Epidendrum 'and returned in the evening well loaded'
(24 Mar 1822) Seeing deer feeding in the governor's garden: 'they seemed to be rather tame as I got as near them as a hundred yards'. Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] after breakfast to order a box for living plants. Going to look for young plants of monkey bread trees in the garden of Mr Kennedy, 'a sort of merchant in the town', but finding none. 'The sky this evening from appearance threatening a tornado. I hurried home as quick as possible'
(25 Mar 1822) Looking through specimens. Laying aside dried ones. Collecting Lepidopleurus insects [The following has been crossed out: Treading on a box with nails protruding, 'one of which went in to my foot a considerable distance, which is now very painful']
[The following entry has been crossed out: (26 Mar) 'My foot being so very painful and likewise festering I amused myself in making a list of the esculent vegetables of Sierra Leone']
(27 Mar 1822) Going to Wellington Town [Wellington, Sierra Leone], three miles beyond Kesey Town [Kissy, Sierra Leone]. [The following has been crossed out: Going slowly with the painful foot: 'I was almost determined to return but I collected some silk cotton and freed it from the seeds and put it in my shoe under the sore after which I went pretty easy']. Collecting seeds of a beautiful Cainito [Chrysophyllum cainito] and roots of the Bletia or Cyrtopodium, first seen a few days ago
Stopping at a house in Wellington for refreshment. Returning a different way. Seeing a beautiful white variety of Melastoma grandiflora [Rhynchanthera grandiflora], 'which is the plant I have termed Osbeckia'. Finding a large bulb of a Caladium. Returning at 1am [the following has been crossed out: 'owing to the pain of my foot']
(28 Mar 1822) [The following has been crossed out: Not going out due to his painful foot]. Arranging the box of insects. Checking specimens to see if they were keeping free of insects
(29 Mar 1822) [The following has been crossed out: His foot better]. Going to King Tom's point [Kingtom, Sierra Leone]. Seeing a beautiful species of Combretum different from those seen before, the fifth species of the genus seen in Sierra Leone: 'now I do not know which of them to prefer for beauty'. Seeing a curious species of Limodorum ('Eulophia species?') with green flowers. The most common trees the butter and tallow tree, 'the Christmas bush of the negroes' and monkey apple [added on the blank opposite page: 'this tree and seed of the [illegible word] bush which is a very beautiful[?]']. Almost getting lost in the thicket due to multiple paths. Finding a canna. Returning after dark [the following has been crossed out: the pain in his foot 'beyond description' after the walk]
(30 Mar 1822) Packing up seeds and arranging specimens. Collecting insects
(31 Mar 1822) A 'tornado' in the night with thunder and lightning. Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] for packing boxes
(1 Apr 1822) Setting off at 6am on horseback for the Sugar Loaf Mountain [Sierra Leone]. Edward Sabine having discovered two bulbs of Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus] when measuring the height of the mountain. Seeing a curious species of Salvia (Brillantacea) [Brillantaisia]. In Regent Town [Regent, Sierra Leone] stopping for breakfast with Rev William Johnston [William Johnson, missionary in Sierra Leone], who 'sent me a man as a guide to the top of the mountain'. Seeing trees related to Guiacum officinale [Guaiacum officinale] and to Laurus cassia [Cinnamomum cassia] at the top. Resting for half an hour. Looking for Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus]. Finding a curious bulb growing among the stones resembling Ixia or Gladiolus, neither in flower nor leaf, and a species of Caladium with pinnated leaves and prickly stems
Returning to Johnson's in the afternoon to dine. Returning home at dusk. Beautiful view over the towns on the peninsula and the islands in the river from the top of the mountain. Intending to go to Kent [Sierra Leone] the following day with Mr Laing, 'adjutant of the regiment here' [Alexander Gordon Laing, explorer and captain in the Royal African Colonial Corps]
(2 Apr 1822) Leaving the farm at 6am. Breakfasting with Kenneth Macaulay, a local merchant, and then 'got our things put in the boat and rowed off' with Alexander Gordon Laing, Signor Altavilla [Joao Jacomo Altavilla, judge of the Mixed British and Portuguese Commission at Sierra Leone] and John Smith. Seeing Bombax trees
Arriving at the settlement of York [Sierra Leone], 30 miles from Freetown [Sierra Leone]. Going to Mr Johnston's ('the superintendent of the settlement') house to dine. In the afternoon walking along a beach covered in Sansaveria guineensis [Sansavieria guineensis]. Seeing Hymenaea courbaril growing on small islands
(3 Apr 1822) Alexander Gordon Laing and Joao Jacomo Altavilla leaving the rest of the party to go to Waterloo [Sierra Leone]. Don and John Smith going to Kent [Sierra Leone] 12 miles away. Keeping to the beach covered in Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus]. Collecting 200 bulbs: 'the bulbs are always separate, you never find them joined together as in England'
Arriving at a deep river, and having to strip and cross in the shallowest place, as directed by the locals, immersed up to their necks in water. Arriving in Kent [Sierra Leone] at 9pm, 'where we were very kindly treated by Mr Beckle [Thomas Stuart Buckle, surveyor and engineer in Sierra Leone] the superintendent'. Sending for the boat in the morning
(4 Apr 1822) Wandering in the bush for a few hours in the morning. Collecting seeds of a 'curious' species of Cacoloba [Coccoloba]. John Smith shooting 'two beautiful crows'. Having no time to go to the Island of Bananas [Banana Islands, Sierra Leone], having to be back to wait for the others returning from Waterloo [Sierra Leone]. Arriving in York [Sierra Leone] in the evening. Arranging specimens and seeds. Receiving a letter from Alexander Gordon Laing saying that he and Joao Jacomo Altavilla were not returning to York [Sierra Leone]
(5 Apr 1822) Preparing the boat at 5am. Rowing down the river to collect specimens of a curious species of Caladium. Returning for breakfast. On the return journey to Freetown, visiting small islands covered with Hymenaea courbaril, Sansaveria guineensis [Sansavieria guineensis], Epidendrum in the large trees and Achrostichum stemaria. Seeing a white-flowered climbing Combretum. Being accompanied to the islands by Mr Johnston: 'he shot a beautiful diver'
(6 Apr 1822) Arriving at Freetown [Sierra Leone] at 1am. Discovering that the HMS Pheasant had arrived. Going to the barracks [at Fort Thornton, Freetown, Sierra Leone] to sleep until daybreak. Being told by Edward Sabine to be ready to leave in three days. Leaving the barracks to return to the governor's farm to start packing
(7 Apr 1822) Planting cuttings of Passiflora
(8 Apr 1822) Going to Freetown [Sierra Leone] for boxes ordered for Don by Edward Sabine
(9 Apr 1822) Packing up five boxes of living plants, specimens, seeds, bulbs and insects, and a small box of several species of Passiflora. Writing lists of the contents of the boxes. Sending the boxes to Edward Sabine for the ship. Leaving the box of living plants and the box with Passiflora with the governor's [Charles MacCarthy] gardener, to wait for the ship to sail
(10 Apr 1822) Going to the barracks [at Fort Thornton, Freetown, Sierra Leone] to enquire about the sailing. Being informed by Edward Sabine that the ship would sail early next morning. Returning to the governor's farm 'where I got some men to carry down my boxes to the barracks'. Sleeping in the barracks
(11 Apr 1822) Sailing on HMS Pheasant
(12 Apr 1822) Arranging the cabin
(15 Apr 1822) Seeing Cape Mount [Liberia]
(16 Apr 1822) Seeing the mountains near the river
(17 Apr 1822) 'Off Kroo Ceterach and Ceterach Kroo [Kru country or Kru coast, consisting of various settlements along the west coast of Africa, including Liberia and Sierra Leone]. Landing 'several Kroomen [Krumen] who were passengers on board'
(18 Apr 1822) 'In the course of the day we have been crowded round with canoes loaded with cassava, guinea pepper, ducks and hens, which they exchanged for tobacco'. Landing 'some Cape Palmas blacks (whom we had on board as passengers) at Cape Palmas [Liberia]'
(21 Apr 1822) Anchoring off Cape Coast [Ghana]
(22 Apr 1822) Going on shore in the afternoon. Looking through the castle [Cape Coast Castle, Ghana]. Going into the bush near the town. Seeing Vinca rosea [Catharanthus roseus], Stachytarpeta jamaicensis, a curious species of cucumber with small prickly fruit, a species of Sida, Tacca 'perhaps pinnatifida [Tacca leontopetaloides], common in marshy places' and many other curious and interesting plants [here the journal includes a list of 2 more plants]
(23 Apr 1822) 'This day I went in a different direction to what I did yesterday'. Seeing a 'curious aquatic plant with cuculate spongy leaves' [added in the margin and on the blank opposite page: 'specimens all eaten by the ants (Pistia stratiotes)'] and Nymphia lotus [Nymphaea lotus] with beautiful white stellated leaves. Going 'with a man' in the afternoon to collect bulbs of Amaryllis, roots of Tacca and seeds of a curious palm, perhaps an Elaeis
(24 Apr 1822) Going out to shoot birds, 'but walking so much in the sun brought on a headache which lasted till next morning'
(25 Apr 1822) Packing up a small box of Tacca 'perhaps pinnatifida' [Tacca leontopetaloides] and an Amaryllis, 'perhaps ornata' [Crinum ornatum]. 'Governor Smith [John Hope Smith, British governor of Gold Coast] was so good as to send a man to a considerable distance to bring me some fruit of a tree, the fruit of which is called here the 'miraculous berry'. If one eats of these berries, every thing you taste afterwards, for some hours tastes sweet. It appeared to me to be a species of Grewia [Synsepalum dulcificum]'. Returning on board. Sailing from Cape Coast [Ghana]
[Here a loose slip of paper is inserted, describing the 'miraculous berry of Cape Coast', making everything taste sweet for hours after eating. Noting having seen the Guinea pepper, Anona aromatica [Xylopia richardii; possibly Xylopia aethiopica]]
(27 Apr 1822) Anchoring off 'English Accra' [Accra, Ghana]. Going on shore in the evening. Dining with Mr Bannerman [?Henry Bannerman, officer and trader in the Royal Africa Company] 'who was very kind'. Lodging at the Fort with Captain Blenkarne [William Henry Blenkarne, British captain in the Company of Merchants, commandant of the Royal African Light Infantry in Accra, Ghana]
(28 Apr 1822) Proceeding to Danish Accra [Accra, Ghana] at 5am. Seeing many curious plants, including a small plant related to Aristolochia, 'the roots of which the natives eat raw, and another plant the roots of which they use in the same way', but collecting no specimens. Seeing a strange species of Epidendrum with tuberous roots, palms including a species of Corypha and another related to Elate [Elaeis], Haemanthus multiflorus [Scadoxus multiflorus], Amaryllis ornata [Crinum ornatum] and a 'strange shrub'. Due to the surf, boats unable to land on the beach: [added on the blank opposite page: 'people are obliged to land in flat-bottomed canoes']. Seeing Monandria monogynia with scarlet flowers
The country beautiful, 'the trees and shrubs are so regularly dispersed that one would from appearance think that they had been planted'. The vegetation less varied than in Sierra Leone 'which accounts for the Herbarium of Afzelius [Adam Afzelius, Swedish botanist, who collected specimens in Sierra Leone in the 1790s] being far superior to that of Brass [William Brass, botanist, who collected specimens in Africa in the 1780s] from Cape Coast'
(29 Apr 1822) Packing tuberous and bulbous roots collected the previous day in the box packed at Cape Coast [Ghana]. In the afternoon, going in a different direction than the day before. Collecting roots of Gloriosa superba. Packing the box and putting it on board a schooner sailing to England
(30 Apr 1822) 'Shot a few birds and collected several seeds' in the morning, including the seeds of a curious tree with pinnated leaves and small, red fruit in clusters: 'it is dry and farinaceous but pleasant to the taste', belonging to 'the natural order of Commaracea'. Sailing from Accra [Ghana] in the afternoon. Arranging seeds and specimens
(2 May 1822) Anchoring off Little Popoe [Aneho, Togo]: 'this is a small village surrounded with Elais guineensis [Elaeis guineensis]'
(4 May 1822) Sailing. Anchoring off Widah [Ouidah, Benin]. 'There were four Portuguese vessels lying here, which we suspected to be slave traders, but they had no slaves on board. This place is similar to that of Little Popoe [Aneho, Togo]'
(5 May 1822) Sailing from Widah [Ouidah, Benin]
(8 May 1822) One of the marines dying of fever: 'he was one of those who was on shore at Sierra Leone with Captain Sabine [Edward Sabine]'
(9 May 1822) 'This afternoon a large shark was caught'
(14 May 1822) Passing the north side of the island of St Thomas [Sao Tome, Sao Tome and Principe]. Seeing HMS Iphigenia. The island mountainous and covered in trees, including coconut trees, with some spots destitute of trees and covered with grass
(15 May 1822) Passing Cabretta Island [Cabras Islet, Sao Tome and Principe]. Anchoring off the town of St Ann de Chaves [Ana Chaves Bay, Sao Tome and Principe]
(16 May 1822) Edward Sabine and Douglas Clavering going on shore in the morning. 'Our master [naval officer responsible for navigation] died about 10 o'clock am'. Sabine returning to inform Don 'that there would be a great deal of trouble in getting liberty to travel in the island'
(17 May 1822) Going on shore to the town of St Ann de Chaves [Ana Chaves Bay, Sao Tome and Principe] in the morning. Breakfasting with Mr Fernandez [John Fernandez, British vice-consul and merchant at St Thomas, Sao Tome and Principe], 'a person whom the commodore [Robert Mends] had appointed as British free consul'
Going to see the town. The houses built of wood and the streets 'pretty regular'. Seeing common fruits and culinary plants, including bananas, sour sops, pineapples, guavas and yams [here the journal includes a list of 10 more fruits and plants]. Seeing in the market place 'a row of a species of Spondias called by the natives oghejee, covered with clusters of ripe fruit which is yellow and about the size of a dove's egg'. The market busy with people buying and selling 'principally the produce of the country'. The most curious fruits for sale being the cola (Sterculia heterophylla) [Sterculia acuminata] and the safu [safou] ('see Brown [Robert Brown, botanist and former librarian at the Linnean Society] on the Congo plants'). Seeing in the town plants including Canna ('a very large species'), Aloe related to barbadensis [Aloe barbadensis], Jatropha curcas, and on the wall of the old convents a strange species of Serratula with blue flowers and a Sonchus [here the journal includes a list of approximately 10 more plants]
Sleeping 'on shore at the house of Don Sacramento [unidentified]' [annotated: 'The natives here are particularly kind. The town seems to have been in a thriving state at some former period, but now nearly the one half of the houses are falling to pieces for want of repair']
(18 May 1822) Going out to collect seeds. Seeing a species of Verea on the walls of one of the old convents. Being informed by Edward Sabine, having received a letter from the governor [Joao Baptista da Silva, governor of St Thomas] 'that he would not be allowed to land his instruments, and that no person would be allowed to go without the limits of the town, which put an end to our business at present'. Sabine writing a letter to the governor, but not waiting for an answer. Going on board. Sailing for Man of War Bay [?Micolo, Sao Tome and Principe] for wood and water, 'but a tornado came on and obliged us to put to sea'
(19 May 1822) Spending the night at sea due to the tornado. Anchoring in the afternoon at Man of War Bay [?Micolo, Sao Tome and Principe]. Going with Edward Sabine in the evening 'to see a large house which we were told was uninhabited (called the Fish House) but when we reached it found it inhabited by soldiers whom we were of opinion had been sent to prevent Captain Sabine from landing his instruments and making observations'. The coast covered in coconut and oil palm trees and a species of Corypha or Rhaphia. Returning on board 'about dark'
(20 May 1822) Going on shore in the morning. Travelling about four miles 'in hopes of falling in with something good, but was entirely disappointed'. Seeing nothing in flower except species of Crotalaria, Hedysarum and Convolvulus. Walking difficult due to tall grass and no paths. Seeing large trees of Bombax, Adamzonia, and introduced species such as Mangifera indica, Spondias, oghejee 'of the natives' and Tamarindus indica. Seeing plenty of banana, plantain and pineapple, 'which the natives assure me are natives of this island and they have every appearance of being so', but guava, sweet and sour sop apple and papaya had been introduced
Returning on board the ship in the evening 'very much disappointed with my day's excursion as the appearance of the island from the ship promised something more interesting'. Edward Sabine receiving a response to his letter of 18 May, 'saying that they would provide a house for him to make his observations in, but they would not allow me to travel in the island'
(21 May 1822) Going on shore. Walking about three miles 'in a different direction to that which I went yesterday'. Seeing 'Pancratium? a new species I hope', a species of Mirabilis and a curious species of Dioscorea with lobed leaves
(22 May 1822) Edward Sabine securing a house in the middle of the bay called the Fish House for his observations. Going south. Seeing a beautiful tree 100 feet high, 'bearing a fruit about twice the size of a man's head, the seeds of which the inhabitants boil and eat', a beautiful Hernandia and many orange and lime trees in the woods 'now almost in a wild state'. On the return journey, seeing a beautiful tree of Pandanus candelabrum, 120 feet high, 'branching in whorls 4 branches in a whorl, divided at the point with several pendulous fruit upon it but were not perfectly ripe'. Seeing Pancratium, mentioned a few days previously, in flower 'which proves to be a Crinum with whitish flower'. Having difficulties on the return journey due to there being no paths. Reaching the ship finally, 'but not without getting my seeds, specimens, paper and myself properly wet, owing to the great surf on entering the boat'
(23 May 1822) Seeing for the first time the safu [safou] tree, a large tree with pinnated leaves and black fruit the size of a hen's egg, with a bitter flavour 'when first eaten, but a little afterwards becomes sweet to the taste, they eat the outer covering'. Returning on board
(24 May 1822) Bringing his cot and paper to the Fish House 'where I intend stopping as long as the ship remains here'. Going 10 miles south into the country: 'I have been quite in a thicket all this day'. Seeing Pandanus candelabrum and 'plenty of the large fruit I mentioned the day before called jakansii [jackfruit] by the negroes', belonging to the natural order Artocarpii. Seeing many colla (Sterculia acuminata and heterophylla) [Cola acuminata, Cola heterophylla] trees and a large tree with pinnated leaves, 'bearing fruit about the size of a bullace plum which the negroes eat, called by them zansii [Pseudospondias microcarpa]'. Seeing 'great herds' of monkeys. Returning at 9pm
(25 May 1822) Going five miles out but 'met with nothing particular except a species of Arum allied to Arum atropurpureum [?Arisaema triphyllum]'
(26 May 1822) Seeing a fine broad-leaved scittameneous [scitamineous] plant 'which the negroes call manjungu [unidentified]' and some large fruit of the jakansii [jackfruit]. Seeing 'the process of clearing the seeds from the pulpy substance by beating and squeezing in a basket, in a river'. The resulting substance being used like rice: 'in my opinion it is not inferior to rice'. The tree very common on the island, the seeds being sold in the markets of St Anne de Chaves [Ana Chaves Bay, Sao Tome and Principe]
(27 May 1822) Going south-west of the Fish House with 'two marines and one negroe'. Travelling for about three miles in the long grass 'which was very fatiguing'. Seeing nothing in particular, except a species of Cleome. Entering a thicket 'and travelled until we were quite fatigued, particularly by thirst, that we were obliged to chew the leaves of a species of Adiantum'. Seeing four kinds of trees in the forest: Sterculia acuminata or Colla [Cola acuminata], a species of Spondias or 'oghejee of the negroes', a tree similar to Myrtus pimenta [Pimenta dioica], 'but without scent' and 'a very tall straight tree having the appearance of hornbeam called by the negroes valapley [valaple, Turraea vogelii], the fruit of which they eat'. On the return journey, seeing a beautiful shrub covered with white flowers, describing the leaves. Acquiring some coconuts 'and quenched our thirst'. Returning in the evening 'very much fatigued'
(28 May 1822) Going out to search for roots of Crinum: 'dug up about a dozen of roots & two very large bulbs which appeared to be different from the Crinum'. Seeing a large tree of a species of Aletris, 'perhaps arboreum [Dracaena arborea]'
(29 May 1822) Going along the beach to the town of St Anne de Chaves [Ana Chaves Bay, Sao Tome and Principe] 10 miles away. The beach covered with a beautiful species of Ipomoea and Dolichos, common throughout tropical Africa. Seeing many trees of Corypha or Raphia 'which I have ascertained to be dioecious, I have seen trees of both sexes'. Seeing a Cyperus papyrus 10 feet high growing in a rivulet. Close to the town, seeing many trees of Adansonii [Adansonia] in fruit. Returning after dark
(30 May 1822) Going south-west of the Plantation House [Fish House]. Seeing jakansii [jackfruit] growing in a thicket of palm trees by a rivulet. Monkeys appearing to be fond of the seeds: 'I observed innumerable quantities of them flying from every one of these trees as we approached, leaping along their tops with great alacrity'. Observing many strange ferns, including a subarborescent species of Cyathea and a large species of Hemionitis, 'perhaps reticulata' [Antrophyum reticulatum]. Seeing Piperomia, an Acanthacerus [Acanthocereus] and many safu [safou] trees. The country very low and damp. Returning in the evening
(31 May 1822) Going to cut down trees of the Corypha or Raphia in the morning, but 'the wood was so hard that we were not able to pierce an inch into it'
Going to the top of the Convent Hill. The convent surrounded by a species of Ficus related to indica [Ficus drupacea]. After descending, crossing a marsh surrounded by palm trees, mainly Elais guineensis [Elaeis guineensis]. Seeing Jussieua [Jussiaea] and two species of Persicaria.
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