'A Sketch of a Journey to the North Western parts of the Continent of North America during the Years 1824, 1825, 1826 and 1827. By David Douglas FLS'
Information
Title - 'A Sketch of a Journey to the North Western parts of the Continent of North America during the Years 1824, 1825, 1826 and 1827. By David Douglas FLS'
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/5/2/1/4
Date - 25 Jul 1824-11 Oct 1827
Scope & content - A summary of Douglas's second expedition in 1824-1827
Overview of contents:
Folios 1-56: Narrative of journey, 25 Jul 1824-11 Oct 1827
Physical description: Unbound manuscript, enclosed in a paper wrapper labelled in a later hand 'D. Douglas, Sketch of a journey, 1824-1827'
A transcription was published by the Royal Horticultural Society in 1914, edited by the secretary of the society, Rev William Wilks and the librarian, H.R. Hutchinson ('Douglas' journal 1823-1827')
The volume is written in David Douglas's hand. There are occasional annotations in pencil in another hand, probably by the editors of the journals in 1914, marking and separating the entries. These annotations have not been noted in the description
This manuscript presents a summarised version of the journal for Douglas's second expedition, but includes some details not present in the other versions. For other versions of the journal, 25 Jul 1824-28 Aug 1827, see RHS/Col/5/2/1-3. This version was written after Douglas's return from the journey, presumably around 1828-1829, as he refers to incidents occurring in 1828 and thereafter
Original foliation
Summary of contents:
Douglas introduces the text, saying that he was sent by the Horticultural Society of London to collect and preserve 'vegetable treasures of those widely extended and highly diversified countries' in North America, after his previous travels on the east coast of the continent, and thanks John Henry Pelly [governor of Hudson's Bay Company], Nicholas Garry [deputy governor of Hudson's Bay Company] and other people for their assistance
[25 Jul 1824] Boarding the Hudson Bay Company ship William and Ann, with Captain Henry Hanwell, bound for the Columbia River [Washington and Oregon, United States of America, and British Columbia, Canada]. Considering himself fortunate during the long voyage to have the company of John Scouler [John Scouler, naturalist and surgeon on the William and Ann], 'skilled in several, and devotedly attached to all, branches of natural history'
(9 Aug 1824) Passing the island of Porto Santo [Madeira, Portugal] in the morning. Anchoring in the Bay of Funchal [Madeira, Portugal] at 4pm. Spending two days on the 'highly delightful' island: 'I was amazingly gratified'. Visiting the summit of one of the highest mountains with John Scouler. Collecting several interesting ('though not new') plants. Visiting vineyards near the town, the hospital and the church
(12 Aug 1824) Sailing towards Rio de Janeiro [Brazil]
(12-24 Aug 1824) The temperature increasing on approaching the Equator, with temperatures of 59°-76°, and a high of 84° in the shade on 21 Aug. The mornings particularly pleasant and fine. Near the islands of Cape Verde [Cabo Verde] seeing Exocoetus volans [Exocoetus volitans], 'skipping from wave to wave and sometimes fluttering on board' and hearing the screams of Phaethon aethereus and the 'never-absent' Procellaria pelagica, these being 'the only alleviation from sky and water'. The weather variable near the Equator, with periods of calm, thunder, lightning and sudden gusts of wind
(3 Sep 1824) A south-easterly trade wind speeding up the journey
(26 Sep 1824) Coming in sight of Cape Frio [Cabo Frio, Rio de Janeiro]. Seeing numerous seabirds of the genus Procellaria, some of them very large. Seeing Diomedea exulans for the first time. The approach to Rio [Rio de Janeiro] 'magnificent', and the palm trees particularly striking to the 'European eye'
Meeting William Harrison [British merchant in Brazil], living in Botafogo [Rio de Janeiro]. Harrison having introduced many plants to England, and 'bestows great pains in procuring subjects in other departments of natural history illustrative of Brazil'. Making a short journey to Tijuca [Rio de Janeiro] with William Harrison and his relative Henry Harrison [British merchant in Brazil] ('who afforded me great assistance'). Being impressed with the luxuriant forest and in particular with the variety of Orchideae. William Harrison cultivating about 70 species of Orchideae, nailed on his garden wall still attached to the bark or wood on which they originally grew. Seeing Harrison's aviary with several rare and beautiful native birds. Meeting John Dickson, 'surgeon in the Royal Navy, who was never more happy than when he had an opportunity of doing an act of kindness'
(15 Oct 1824) Leaving Rio de Janeiro: 'I left [...] this charming place with much regret', not having been able to procure many dried plants because of the early season and continuous rain. The weather continuing variable for a few days, with rain in the evenings
(19 Oct 1824) Tuesday. A fine breeze. Sailing southwards and leaving the warm weather behind. Seeing near the Plate [Rio de la Plata, Argentina and Uruguay], at latitude 37°S and longitude 37°W, 'immense shoals of Fucus pyriformis', some 60 feet in length and three inches in diameter, with Asterias, Beroe and other Molluscae clinging to the roots. Catching birds with a small hook and a line, including Procellaria capensis [Daption capense] and Procellaria fuliginosa [?Diomedea fuliginosa or Phoebetria fusca]
(5 Nov 1824) Near the Falkland Islands, 'an indescribable piercing chilliness told us we were drawing near to the dreary, inhospitable region of Cape Horn [Chile]'. At latitudes 50°-59°S catching altogether 69 Diomedea birds, including Diomedea exulans, Diomedea fuliginosa [Phoebetria fusca] and Diomedea chlororhynchos [Thalassarche chlororhynchos]: 'the last, though a smaller bird than the first, reigns as lord over the others, and all give way to him on his approach'. Authors stating that the birds were most easily caught in calm weather, but Douglas finding the opposite: 'it was only during the driving gusts of a storm that I could secure them, and on such occasions they fight voraciously about the bait, the hook often being received into the stomach. The appearance of these birds is majestic and grand', the largest measuring 12 feet and four inches, or four feet from the beak to the tail. Sitting on the water, the birds raising their wings like swans, and fluttering them with a continuous tremulous motion, similar to hawks. The birds being unable to fly from the deck of a ship, but once in the air, after running on the water for several hundred yards, soaring without any visible motion of wings in the sky. The birds being 'bold and savage in disposition, at least they display these qualities on being made captives'
Catching 'vast numbers' of Larus and Procellaria using hooks baited with pork fat. The weather continuing variable until the Straits of Magellan [Chile], with boisterous winds, high sea, hail, rain and thick fogs
(14 Dec 1824) Seeing the island of Mas-a-Fuera [Alejandro Selkirk Island, Juan Fernandez Islands, Chile] about seven leagues away. The island, a dark bare rock, looking barren apart some 'verdure' in the valleys and some trees on the hills, with a few of goats. Being unable to land due to the surf. Sailing towards the island of Juan Fernandez [Robinson Crusoe Island, Juan Fernandez Islands]. Coming in sight of the island after two days, 'the winds having failed us'. The island ('which might be properly termed the Madeira of the south') mountainous, volcanic and beautifully covered with vegetation on the hills, usually enveloped in the clouds, the burnt red rocky soil contrasting with the deep green of the vegetation
Going on shore to Cumberland Bay [Robinson Crusoe Island, Juan Fernandez Islands], being surprised to see smoke rising from a small straw-thatched hut, with a small coppered schooner anchored in the bay. 'Our astonishment was still more increased when, on the eve of landing, a person sprang from the thicket', saluting them in English, directing them to a sheltered creek, and showing them where to find water and wild fruits from the neglected gardens of the Spanish settlement. The man, William Clark, an English sailor from Whitechapel in London, had been in Chile for five years, and on the island for a few months, 'with five Spaniards', hunting seals and goats 'and making junk from the wild cattle' and commanding his little boat ('25 tons' burden'): 'his intelligence was considerably beyond his sphere, his mode of life altogether worthy of being recorded'. Not seeing his companions, who were hunting on the other side of the island, having left Clark to look after the vessel. Clark seeming happy, but not comfortable
The 'rural [and] enchanting' island consisting of numerous rills descending through rich valleys and rocky dells, the woods covered with the 'feathery fronds' of Lomaria, Aspidium and Polypodium ('several species of which are new and truly princely'). Seeing several species of Escallonia, Berberis, Lobelia, Hordeum and Avena on the hill. Collecting 70 distinct, 'exceedingly interesting' plants, but not seeing many new or beautiful birds. Killing one Strix and several of a dark, plentiful species of Columba. Seeing on the shore, about 200 yards from the tidemark, overgrown by nettles, thistles and Campanula, a circular brick oven, seven feet in diameter, dated 1741, being used as a cote by the pigeons: 'I took some eggs, but no young'. The oven having probably been built by Anson [George Anson, British Royal Navy commodore, who navigated around the world in the 1740s]. Seeing 26 cannons lying on the beach, and the ruins of an old church, inscribed 'La casa de Dios puerta del cielo y so colocoesta [y se coloco esta] a 24 Septiembre 1811 (The house of God consecrated 24 September 1811)'. Finding some pears, apples, prunes and figs, some vines and one kind of strawberry in the old gardens
Leaving garden seeds 'here and at Cruz Bay [Robinson Crusoe Island, Juan Fernandez Islands]'. Douglas and John Scouler giving Clark some clothing, 'for which he was thankful', and Clark giving them a goat to take on board the ship. Leaving Clark standing on a large stone on the shore. On reaching the ship, strong easterly winds setting in, compelling the ship to sail: 'we were obliged to leave this island and poor Clark'. Sailing towards the Galapagos Islands [Galapagos Islands, Ecuador]
(9 Jan 1825) Sunday. Passing Chatham Island [San Cristobal, Galapagos Islands] and continuing towards James' Island [Santiago Island, Galapagos Islands], 37 miles further west. All the islands volcanic, mountainous and rugged island with vestiges of volcano crates and lava, with less vegetation than other tropical places, due to the soil and lack of springs. Seeing many birds, 'so little acquainted with man's devices that the smaller ones we killed with sticks'. Catching plenty of rock cods in the bay without any bait, with sharks biting their oars. Seeing plenty of large land tortoises: 'we took in one day 13 in the water, while they were performing their sacrifices to Venus [mating]. They are powerful'
Losing all of his carefully prepared collections of plants and birds due to almost constant rain for 12 days after leaving the island. Regretting especially the loss of a new species of Lacerta [lizard], 20-30 inches long, dark orange in colour with a 'rough, warty skin, and which made a good soup'. Becalmed for nearly ten days a few degrees north of the Equator. The ship being carried nearly 10° westward in the correct direction by a strong current, at the rate of 45-46 miles a day. The weather continuing variable for the remaining time in the tropics, with lightning, changing winds and frequent rain
Catching an undescribed species of Diomedea at latitude 34°N, longitude 130°W, similar to Diomedea fuliginosa [Phoebetria fusca], but less powerful, the Diomedea exulans in the Pacific being a much smaller bird than the one in the southern hemisphere, 'and will on comparison prove a distinct bird'
(12 Feb 1825) Coming in sight of the river [Columbia River] at longitude 136°W, but being prevented by the 'boisterous' weather from approaching the coast until 1 Apr: 'during this period we endured a thousand-fold more bad weather than on all our voyage'
(3 Apr 1825) Sunday. Coming in sight of Cape Disappointment [Washington], 28 miles away. The breeze carrying the ship close to the shore, but having to sail back to the sea due to another violent storm
(7 Apr 1825) Thursday. Attempting to approach the coast again. Managing to sail 'in perfect safety [to] this dangerous place' at 6am, being 40 miles away, managing to sail 'in perfect safety [to] this dangerous place'. Anchoring in Baker's Bay [Baker Bay, Washington], 'having had an interesting, though in some points a comparatively tedious voyage'
(8 Apr 1825) Friday. Torrential rain
(9 Apr 1825) Saturday. Going on shore with John Scouler. Seeing Rubus spectabilis and Gaultheria shallon on stepping on shore, and collecting various plants seen previously only in herbaria or in books. On his return to the ship, finding that 'a Canadian' and 'some natives' from the establishment [Hudson's Bay Company trading post] had brought fresh provisions: 'several canoes of Indians visited the ship and behaved civilly, bringing dried salmon, fresh sturgeon, and dried berries of various kinds, which they readily have, in exchange for trinkets, molasses and bread'
(11 Apr 1825) Monday. The ship sailing up the river and anchoring opposite the fort [Fort George, also known as Fort Astoria, Hudson Bay Company's trading post on the Columbia River, Washington] at Point Ellis [Point Ellice, Washington] on the north side of the river
(12 Apr 1825) Tuesday. Going on shore. Being received by 'the late Mr Alexander McKenzie [Alexander McKenzie, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader at Fort Vancouver. He was killed in 1828], who showed us all attention in his power'. The country along the coast mountainous and wooded, consisting primarily of pines of various species: 'for a more particular description of which, the reader is referred to the account of this family from the pen of Joseph Sabine [secretary of the Horticultural Society of London. Neither Sabine nor Douglas published Douglas's descriptions of the North American pines; for Douglas's draft manuscripts on this topic, see RHS/Col/5/2/3/1-2]'
Cape Disappointment, 'a remarkable promontory' rising above the sea to the north and forming a good landmark for ships entering the river. The 'noble stream' [Columbia River] being 4 1/2 miles wide, widening into deep bays with a rapid current. Seeing 'new or strikingly grand objects' on each excursion, and being particularly pleased at finding abundant Hookera lugens [Hookera ixioides var. lugens] and Menziesia ferruginea in the damp, shady forests
(16 Apr 1825) Having his papers and trunks sent on shore
(19 Apr 1825) Embarking in a small boat with the chief factor, Dr John McLoughlin [John McLoughlin, also known as Jean-Baptiste McLoughlin, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, chief factor at Fort Vancouver], 'who received me with every demonstration of good feeling, and gave me all kindly offices, which he had in his power to bestow'. Reaching their destination, Fort Vancouver [Hudson Bay Company's trading post on the Columbia River, Washington], the following evening. Fort Vancouver being 90 miles from the sea, and a few miles below Point Vancouver [Washington], 'the spot where the officers of that expedition terminated the survey of the river in 1792 [Douglas is referring to the Vancouver expedition, 1791-1795, to circumnavigate the globe, led by George Vancouver]'
The scenery on the riverbanks 'sublime', with high, wooded hills, mountains covered with perpetual snow, extensive meadows and fertile alluvial plains covered with grass and a profusion of flowering plants. The most remarkable mountains being Mount Hood [Oregon], Mount St Helens [Washington], Mount Vancouver [?Mount Rainier, Washington] and Mount Jefferson [Oregon], all covered in snow. Spending his time collecting plants until 10 May, including Ribes sanguineum, Berberis aquifolium, Acer macrophyllum, Scilla esculenta [Camassia scilloides] and Lupinus polyphyllus, the latter covering all low lands, growing up to six to eight feet high [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants]
Douglas's friend John Scouler visiting him for a few days. Returning with Scouler to the sea to bring back the remainder of his belongings, including the 'noble' Arbutus procera [Arbutus menziesii]. Purchasing excellent salmon cheaply from 'the native tribes'. Returning to Fort Vancouver at the end of the month, having collected 75 new species of plants, some birds and insects and four quadrupeds. Collecting seeds around Fort Vancouver
(20 Jun 1825) Joining boats travelling to the inland establishments [Hudson's Bay Company trading posts], going with them 'as far as it appeared to me to be advisable'. The ascent up the river being slow due to the strong currents, giving Douglas the opportunity of 'botanising' on the banks. Passing the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Bonneville Dam], on the second day, 46 miles from Fort Vancouver: 'the scenery at this place is romantic and wild, with high mountains on each side clothed with timber of immense size'. The rapid having been formed by the river passing through a narrow, rocky channel, 170 yards wide and two miles long, with small islands. Seeing petrified pine and Acer macrophyllum trees on the riverbanks
Seeing 'prodigious numbers' of salmon being fished with a small hoop or a scoop net fastened to the end of a pole. The fish being of excellent quality, weighing on average 15lbs. Seine nets used for fishing in the still parts of the river, 'with great success', with spindle-shaped pieces of the wood of Thuja plicata attached to the nets as corks and oblong stones as weights, the net made from the bark of Salix or Thuja and the cord of Apocynum piscatorium [Apocynum cannabinum]
The banks of the river steep, rocky and rugged for the 70 miles between the Grand Rapids and the Great Falls [Celilo Falls, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Dalles Dam], the hills gradually diminishing, with stunted trees: 'we are no longer fanned by the huge pine, Thuja or Acer, or regaled by Populus tremuloides forever quivering in the breeze. As far as the eye can stretch is one dreary waste of barren soil thinly clothed with herbage'. Seeing beautiful Clarkia pulchella, Calochortus macrocarpus, Lupinus aridus, Lupinus leucophyllus and Brodiaea. The riverbed at the falls being 600 feet below the former riverbed of decomposed granite. Being unable to proceed more than a few miles from the falls, but 'was amply repaid' by finding Purshia tridentata, Bartonia albicaulis [identification unresolved as at Sep 2018], Collomia grandiflora and several penstemons: 'in this journey, many fine plants were secured'
(19 Jul 1825) Leaving early in the morning in an 'Indian' canoe for the coast to carry out research, but his travels being 'frustrated by the tribe among whom I lived going to war with the natives to the northward, the direction I intended to follow. During my stay several persons were killed and some wounded in a quarrel'. The principal chief of the village, Cockqua [Cockqua, Lower Chehalis chief], treating Douglas with 'great fidelity'. Cockqua building Douglas a small cabin beside his own lodge, but Douglas having to abandon the cabin due to fleas and camp by the river a few yards from the village: 'he was so deeply interested in my safety, that he watched himself the whole night on which he expected the war party'. Witnessing the war dance of about 300 men, dressed in 'war garments' and singing death songs, 'which to me alone imparted an indescribable sensation'. The following day 400 warriors in canoes landing in the village, but the hostilities being suspended in the end
One of the chief's fishermen catching a large sturgeon, measuring 12 feet nine inches and seven feet around at the thickest part, probably weighing over 500lbs. Collecting plants and seeds, including Lupinus littoralis, Carex menziesii [Carex macrocephala], Juncus menziesii [Juncus falcatus], Vaccinium ovatum and Spiraea ariaefolia [Spiraea ariifolia] [here the journal includes a list of 6 more plants]. Buying from the villagers items of clothing, hunting and 'things used in domestic economy', paying for them with 'trinkets and tobacco'
(5-18 Aug 1825) Returning to Fort Vancouver. Drying plants. Making occasional short trips in the neighbourhood, but being frequently hampered by rainy weather
(19 Aug 1825) Leaving for the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel], a southern tributary of the Columbia River: 'a fine stream with very fertile banks'. Seeing fine waterfalls 36 miles from the Columbia, 43 feet high and spanning the whole river, the water dividing into three channels during the dry season, falling as one sheet in the summer: 'the portage over the falls was no small undertaking'. Killing several Cervus leucurus [Odocoileus virginianus leucurus] or long white-tailed deer, and some black-tailed deer
After two days' travelling, reaching the village of the Calapooie [Kalapuya] ('a peaceful, good-disposed people'), 24 miles above the falls. A hunting party setting out, leaving Douglas in the village for several days. Seeing a saline spring near his camp, with deer and a beautiful ringed species of Columba drawn to it in the mornings to lick the saline particles, 'which afforded me great amusement'
Collecting plants by the River Sandiam [Santiam River, Oregon], on the extensive plains surrounded by mountains, including Eschscholzia californica, Iris tenax, Nicotiana multivalvis [Nicotiana quadrivalvis var. multivalvis] and two new species of Trichostema. Hunting curious species of animals, including Myoxus, Mus, Arctomys [marmot] and a new species of Canis ('of singular habits'). Seeing 'in the tobacco pouches of the Indians' large pine seeds, eaten as nuts, and being told the trees grow in the mountains to the south: 'no time was lost in ascertaining the existence of this truly grand tree, which I named Pinus lambertiana, but no perfect seeds could I find [for a description of this tree published by Douglas entitled 'Mr David Douglas on a new species of Pinus', 1827, see the 'Transactions of the Linnean Society of London', volume 15, pages 497-500]'. Returning to Fort Vancouver, 'richly laden with many treasures'. Spending a few days drying and arranging seeds
(5 Sep 1825) Going to the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids], 'having engaged a chief [Chumtalia] as my guide, and accompanied by one Canadian'. Spending two days ascending the stream, despite the favourable sail wind. Pitching a camp near Chumtalia's house. Drenching the ground with water to prevent fleas, but not being entirely successful. Hearing of Douglas's wish to visit the summits of the mountains on the north side of the river, Chumtalia 'became forthwith sick, and soon found an excuse for exempting himself from this undertaking', but sent a younger brother and two young men from the village instead: 'the Canadian remained at the tent to take care of my boots etc, injunctions being given to Chumtalia to supply him with salmon and to see that nothing came over him'
To encourage the guides, giving them almost all of the provisions the first day, apart from a little tea, sugar and four small biscuits. Leaving their blankets at their first encampment, about two-thirds of the way up the mountain, intending to return there to sleep after visiting the top. Not reaching the summit before dark, having to climb over detached rocks and fallen timber. Killing and eating a young brown eagle: 'with a little tea made in an open kettle, and drunk out of bark dishes, and a good fire, passed a tolerable night without any bedding'. Drying clothes soaked with perspiration before going to sleep. Reaching the camp the following day at dusk, faint, weak and with sore feet
Spending time fishing and shooting seals (Phoca vitulina) in the rapids to recover from the exertions of climbing the summit. Chumtalia accompanying Douglas to another mountain on the south side of the river. Reaching the summit after 'a laborious march' of 15 hours, an easier ascent than the previous one. Finding two new species of pine, Pinus nobilis [Abies procera] and Pinus amabilis [Abies amabilis] ('two of the noblest species of the tribe'), Helonias tenax [Xerophyllum tenax], a new species of Rhododendron, a rare species of Pterospora, species of Ribes, Arbutus tomentosa [Arctostaphylos tomentosa] and several species of penstemon
(13 Sep 1825) Returning to Fort Vancouver. Being pleased to find John Scouler had successfully returned from the north: 'we sat and talked over our several journeys, unconscious of time, until the sun from behind the majestic hills warned us that a new day had come'
Spending the rest of the month packing bundles of dried plants and chests of seeds, birds and quadrupeds, and clothing. Putting aside a portion of each variety of seeds to send across the continent the following spring. Due to a slight wound, being unable to continue working for some weeks, 'which greatly distressed me at this important season of the year'
(22 Oct-15 Nov 1825) Learning that the ship had been detained by contrary winds, and deciding to visit Whitbey Harbour [Gray's Harbor, Washington] at latitude 48° to collect seaweeds and other plants [near the ships's anchorage]. Leaving with Alexander McKenzie and 'four Indians' in a small canoe. Camping at the junction of the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel] at sunset, after travelling only 20 miles, due to a strong westerly wind
Arriving at Oak Point village [Washington] at 8pm the following evening. Receiving a letter from John Scouler informing him the ship would not leave for a few more days. Continuing the journey to McKenzie's encampment, four miles below the village, to dine before resuming the journey. Having to stop at 4am on Monday 24 Oct due to a strong westerly wind. Carrying the canoe by land over Tongue Point [Oregon] before reaching the mouth of the river and finding out to his disappointment that the ship had sailed an hour before, the winds having changed to north-easterly
Sleeping on the north side of the river at the village of Comcomly, the Chenook [Chinookan] chief [chief of the Chinook confederacy]: 'this old man sent his canoe and twelve Indians to ferry us across the river' to Baker's Bay [Baker Bay], reaching the shore safely with the skilful canoers despite a violent storm, losing only a few pounds of flour and a little tea ('all our provisions with the exception of a few ounces of chocolate which I had in my pocket'). Camping near Knight's River [Wallacut River, Washington]
Travelling the following day a short distance over Cape Disappointment to a small lake, with a narrow stream flowing to the north. Reaching Cape Foulweather [Douglas appears to have been at Cape Shoalwater, Washington, and may be confusing the name with Cape Foulweather south of Columbia River, in Oregon] in the evening, having spent all day in the torrential rain. Sending the canoe back to the Columbia River, 'the Indians being anxious to return hastily, as we had not the means of feeding them'. The wind increasing to a hurricane, with sleet and hail. Moving the camp twice due to the rising water level, and having to shelter under a few pine branches and wet blankets, without any food
Leaving Cape Foulweather ('which name it truly deserves') and walking along the sandy beach 16 miles to Whitbey Harbour [Gray's Harbor], but finding the village deserted. Remaining in the village for several days, feeding 'scantily on roots of Sagittaria sagittifolia and Lupinus littoralis, called in the Chenook [Chinookan] tongue somuchtan, and from continual exposure to the cold and rain and the want of proper sustenance, I became greatly reduced'. Making a large fire to attract the attention of his guide's friends on the other side of the bay as soon as weather permitted. Being sent a canoe, staying on the other side of the bay, sharing the little food they had
Ascending Cheecheeler River [Chehalis River, Washington] for 60 miles in a canoe, 'when, from the deluges of rain and the advanced season, our zeal cooled and we gave up our voyage'. Paying the guide, 'The Beard' [Tha-a-muxi, also known as Tha-a-mutei, brother of Comcomly], for his assistance and for the loan of his canoe, and employing two new guides to take them overland to the Cow-a-lidsk River [Cowlitz River, Washington], a branch of the Columbia [Columbia River]
Taking two days to cover the distance of about 40 miles due to flooding of the plains, rivulets and the low, woody hills. Continuous rain. Eating all the berries collected during the journey, McKenzie suffering 'some inconvenience from having eaten a few roots of a species of Narthecium'. Finding at Cow-a-lidsk [Cowlitz River] a small boat, borrowed from the establishment [Hudson's Bay Company trading post] by Schachanaway, the chief [Scanewa, chief of the Cowlitz]. The chief giving them some roots, dried salmon and a goose (Anas canadensis) [Branta canadensis]. Descending the river to the Columbia the following day
(15 Nov 1825) Arriving at the establishment [Fort Vancouver]. Managing to save only the seeds of Helonias tenax [Xerophyllum tenax], Rubus spectabilis and a few others, but losing all the birds and seaweeds: 'I had suffered so much from my last trip, that little hope was left me for being able to do much good for this season, at least in botany'
Collecting 'woods and Musci, when opportunity favoured', but being frequently interrupted by heavy rains. Forming a 'tolerable collection' of preserved animals and birds between November and 20 March, including Tetrao sabini [Bonasa umbellus sabini], 'an endless variety' of Anas, several species of Canis, Cervus and Mus [here the journal includes a list of 4 more animals and birds]. A mild winter, with hardly any frost and no snow until 20 Feb
(20 Mar 1826) Deciding to spend a season in the interior of the country near the Rocky Mountains [Canada and United States of America]. With assistance from Mr McLoughlin [John McLoughlin] ('unremitting with his kind attentions'), embarking on a [Hudson's Bay Company] boat with two reams of paper: 'an enormous indulgence. Rather than go unprovided in this respect, I curtailed the small supply of clothing'
(24 Mar 1826) Reaching the falls. The country from the falls to the [Hudson's Bay Company trading] post Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Wallula] hilly, with sandy, barren soil, rocky riverbanks and no trees. Walking along the riverbanks on the way. Collecting plants, including 'the beautiful' Lilium pudicum [Fritillaria pudica], two new genera of Cruciferae and Ribes cereum. Being pleased to find a new species of Wulfenia
The riverbanks steep and rocky as far as the junction of the Spokane River [Washington and Idaho, United States of America], and the river rapid and difficult to ascend. Seeing some deer (Cervus leucurus or Cervus macrotis [Odocoileus virginianus leucurus or Odocoileus hemionus]), bears, wolves, foxes and badgers in the brushwood, composed of Purshia tridentata and Artemisia arborea [?Artemisia arborescens]. The most common birds being Tetrao urophasianus [Centrocercus urophasianus] and Tetrao urophasianellus [?Tympanuchus phasianellus], 'at this season of the year celebrating their nuptials on the gravelly shores of the streams'. In parts of the river, melting snow raising the water to 'the amazing height' of 43 feet above its ordinary level
(11 Apr 1826) Arriving at the junction of the Spokane River. Finding John W. Dease [John Warren Dease, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader]. Sending letters to England across the continent to Hudson's Bay [Hudson Bay, Canada]. Accompanying Dease to Kettle Falls [Washington; later submerged by Grand Coulee Dam], where Dease was setting up a new trading post: 'of all the places I have seen, this is by far the finest', with high, rugged mountains, fertile valleys with plentiful game and the 'immense body of water dashed over a pitch 24 feet perpendicular'
Collecting many fine plants during the journey. Eating primarily Tetrao richardsonii [Dendragapus obscurus richardsonii] and Tetrao urophasianellus [?Tympanuchus phasianellus]. Dease giving Douglas the use of three of his best horses and two hunters to accompany him to Spokane [Spokane House, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Spokane, Washington], about 70 miles to the north
(2 May 1826) Setting off towards Spokane [Spokane House]. Travelling slowly in the interesting country. Arriving late on the third day. Mr Jaques Finlay [Jacques Raphael Finlay, also known as Jaco Finlay, Canadian Scottish-Saulteaux fur trader and explorer] repairing Douglas's g
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