'A Sketch of a Journey to the North Western parts of the Continent of North America during the Years 1824, 1825, 1826 and 1827. By David Douglas FLS'
Information
Title - 'A Sketch of a Journey to the North Western parts of the Continent of North America during the Years 1824, 1825, 1826 and 1827. By David Douglas FLS'
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/5/2/1/4
Date - 25 Jul 1824-11 Oct 1827
Scope & content - A summary of Douglas's second expedition in 1824-1827
Overview of contents:
Folios 1-56: Narrative of journey, 25 Jul 1824-11 Oct 1827
Physical description: Unbound manuscript, enclosed in a paper wrapper labelled in a later hand 'D. Douglas, Sketch of a journey, 1824-1827'
A transcription was published by the Royal Horticultural Society in 1914, edited by the secretary of the society, Rev William Wilks and the librarian, H.R. Hutchinson ('Douglas' journal 1823-1827')
The volume is written in David Douglas's hand. There are occasional annotations in pencil in another hand, probably by the editors of the journals in 1914, marking and separating the entries. These annotations have not been noted in the description
This manuscript presents a summarised version of the journal for Douglas's second expedition, but includes some details not present in the other versions. For other versions of the journal, 25 Jul 1824-28 Aug 1827, see RHS/Col/5/2/1-3. This version was written after Douglas's return from the journey, presumably around 1828-1829, as he refers to incidents occurring in 1828 and thereafter
Original foliation
Summary of contents:
Douglas introduces the text, saying that he was sent by the Horticultural Society of London to collect and preserve 'vegetable treasures of those widely extended and highly diversified countries' in North America, after his previous travels on the east coast of the continent, and thanks John Henry Pelly [governor of Hudson's Bay Company], Nicholas Garry [deputy governor of Hudson's Bay Company] and other people for their assistance
[25 Jul 1824] Boarding the Hudson Bay Company ship William and Ann, with Captain Henry Hanwell, bound for the Columbia River [Washington and Oregon, United States of America, and British Columbia, Canada]. Considering himself fortunate during the long voyage to have the company of John Scouler [John Scouler, naturalist and surgeon on the William and Ann], 'skilled in several, and devotedly attached to all, branches of natural history'
(9 Aug 1824) Passing the island of Porto Santo [Madeira, Portugal] in the morning. Anchoring in the Bay of Funchal [Madeira, Portugal] at 4pm. Spending two days on the 'highly delightful' island: 'I was amazingly gratified'. Visiting the summit of one of the highest mountains with John Scouler. Collecting several interesting ('though not new') plants. Visiting vineyards near the town, the hospital and the church
(12 Aug 1824) Sailing towards Rio de Janeiro [Brazil]
(12-24 Aug 1824) The temperature increasing on approaching the Equator, with temperatures of 59°-76°, and a high of 84° in the shade on 21 Aug. The mornings particularly pleasant and fine. Near the islands of Cape Verde [Cabo Verde] seeing Exocoetus volans [Exocoetus volitans], 'skipping from wave to wave and sometimes fluttering on board' and hearing the screams of Phaethon aethereus and the 'never-absent' Procellaria pelagica, these being 'the only alleviation from sky and water'. The weather variable near the Equator, with periods of calm, thunder, lightning and sudden gusts of wind
(3 Sep 1824) A south-easterly trade wind speeding up the journey
(26 Sep 1824) Coming in sight of Cape Frio [Cabo Frio, Rio de Janeiro]. Seeing numerous seabirds of the genus Procellaria, some of them very large. Seeing Diomedea exulans for the first time. The approach to Rio [Rio de Janeiro] 'magnificent', and the palm trees particularly striking to the 'European eye'
Meeting William Harrison [British merchant in Brazil], living in Botafogo [Rio de Janeiro]. Harrison having introduced many plants to England, and 'bestows great pains in procuring subjects in other departments of natural history illustrative of Brazil'. Making a short journey to Tijuca [Rio de Janeiro] with William Harrison and his relative Henry Harrison [British merchant in Brazil] ('who afforded me great assistance'). Being impressed with the luxuriant forest and in particular with the variety of Orchideae. William Harrison cultivating about 70 species of Orchideae, nailed on his garden wall still attached to the bark or wood on which they originally grew. Seeing Harrison's aviary with several rare and beautiful native birds. Meeting John Dickson, 'surgeon in the Royal Navy, who was never more happy than when he had an opportunity of doing an act of kindness'
(15 Oct 1824) Leaving Rio de Janeiro: 'I left [...] this charming place with much regret', not having been able to procure many dried plants because of the early season and continuous rain. The weather continuing variable for a few days, with rain in the evenings
(19 Oct 1824) Tuesday. A fine breeze. Sailing southwards and leaving the warm weather behind. Seeing near the Plate [Rio de la Plata, Argentina and Uruguay], at latitude 37°S and longitude 37°W, 'immense shoals of Fucus pyriformis', some 60 feet in length and three inches in diameter, with Asterias, Beroe and other Molluscae clinging to the roots. Catching birds with a small hook and a line, including Procellaria capensis [Daption capense] and Procellaria fuliginosa [?Diomedea fuliginosa or Phoebetria fusca]
(5 Nov 1824) Near the Falkland Islands, 'an indescribable piercing chilliness told us we were drawing near to the dreary, inhospitable region of Cape Horn [Chile]'. At latitudes 50°-59°S catching altogether 69 Diomedea birds, including Diomedea exulans, Diomedea fuliginosa [Phoebetria fusca] and Diomedea chlororhynchos [Thalassarche chlororhynchos]: 'the last, though a smaller bird than the first, reigns as lord over the others, and all give way to him on his approach'. Authors stating that the birds were most easily caught in calm weather, but Douglas finding the opposite: 'it was only during the driving gusts of a storm that I could secure them, and on such occasions they fight voraciously about the bait, the hook often being received into the stomach. The appearance of these birds is majestic and grand', the largest measuring 12 feet and four inches, or four feet from the beak to the tail. Sitting on the water, the birds raising their wings like swans, and fluttering them with a continuous tremulous motion, similar to hawks. The birds being unable to fly from the deck of a ship, but once in the air, after running on the water for several hundred yards, soaring without any visible motion of wings in the sky. The birds being 'bold and savage in disposition, at least they display these qualities on being made captives'
Catching 'vast numbers' of Larus and Procellaria using hooks baited with pork fat. The weather continuing variable until the Straits of Magellan [Chile], with boisterous winds, high sea, hail, rain and thick fogs
(14 Dec 1824) Seeing the island of Mas-a-Fuera [Alejandro Selkirk Island, Juan Fernandez Islands, Chile] about seven leagues away. The island, a dark bare rock, looking barren apart some 'verdure' in the valleys and some trees on the hills, with a few of goats. Being unable to land due to the surf. Sailing towards the island of Juan Fernandez [Robinson Crusoe Island, Juan Fernandez Islands]. Coming in sight of the island after two days, 'the winds having failed us'. The island ('which might be properly termed the Madeira of the south') mountainous, volcanic and beautifully covered with vegetation on the hills, usually enveloped in the clouds, the burnt red rocky soil contrasting with the deep green of the vegetation
Going on shore to Cumberland Bay [Robinson Crusoe Island, Juan Fernandez Islands], being surprised to see smoke rising from a small straw-thatched hut, with a small coppered schooner anchored in the bay. 'Our astonishment was still more increased when, on the eve of landing, a person sprang from the thicket', saluting them in English, directing them to a sheltered creek, and showing them where to find water and wild fruits from the neglected gardens of the Spanish settlement. The man, William Clark, an English sailor from Whitechapel in London, had been in Chile for five years, and on the island for a few months, 'with five Spaniards', hunting seals and goats 'and making junk from the wild cattle' and commanding his little boat ('25 tons' burden'): 'his intelligence was considerably beyond his sphere, his mode of life altogether worthy of being recorded'. Not seeing his companions, who were hunting on the other side of the island, having left Clark to look after the vessel. Clark seeming happy, but not comfortable
The 'rural [and] enchanting' island consisting of numerous rills descending through rich valleys and rocky dells, the woods covered with the 'feathery fronds' of Lomaria, Aspidium and Polypodium ('several species of which are new and truly princely'). Seeing several species of Escallonia, Berberis, Lobelia, Hordeum and Avena on the hill. Collecting 70 distinct, 'exceedingly interesting' plants, but not seeing many new or beautiful birds. Killing one Strix and several of a dark, plentiful species of Columba. Seeing on the shore, about 200 yards from the tidemark, overgrown by nettles, thistles and Campanula, a circular brick oven, seven feet in diameter, dated 1741, being used as a cote by the pigeons: 'I took some eggs, but no young'. The oven having probably been built by Anson [George Anson, British Royal Navy commodore, who navigated around the world in the 1740s]. Seeing 26 cannons lying on the beach, and the ruins of an old church, inscribed 'La casa de Dios puerta del cielo y so colocoesta [y se coloco esta] a 24 Septiembre 1811 (The house of God consecrated 24 September 1811)'. Finding some pears, apples, prunes and figs, some vines and one kind of strawberry in the old gardens
Leaving garden seeds 'here and at Cruz Bay [Robinson Crusoe Island, Juan Fernandez Islands]'. Douglas and John Scouler giving Clark some clothing, 'for which he was thankful', and Clark giving them a goat to take on board the ship. Leaving Clark standing on a large stone on the shore. On reaching the ship, strong easterly winds setting in, compelling the ship to sail: 'we were obliged to leave this island and poor Clark'. Sailing towards the Galapagos Islands [Galapagos Islands, Ecuador]
(9 Jan 1825) Sunday. Passing Chatham Island [San Cristobal, Galapagos Islands] and continuing towards James' Island [Santiago Island, Galapagos Islands], 37 miles further west. All the islands volcanic, mountainous and rugged island with vestiges of volcano crates and lava, with less vegetation than other tropical places, due to the soil and lack of springs. Seeing many birds, 'so little acquainted with man's devices that the smaller ones we killed with sticks'. Catching plenty of rock cods in the bay without any bait, with sharks biting their oars. Seeing plenty of large land tortoises: 'we took in one day 13 in the water, while they were performing their sacrifices to Venus [mating]. They are powerful'
Losing all of his carefully prepared collections of plants and birds due to almost constant rain for 12 days after leaving the island. Regretting especially the loss of a new species of Lacerta [lizard], 20-30 inches long, dark orange in colour with a 'rough, warty skin, and which made a good soup'. Becalmed for nearly ten days a few degrees north of the Equator. The ship being carried nearly 10° westward in the correct direction by a strong current, at the rate of 45-46 miles a day. The weather continuing variable for the remaining time in the tropics, with lightning, changing winds and frequent rain
Catching an undescribed species of Diomedea at latitude 34°N, longitude 130°W, similar to Diomedea fuliginosa [Phoebetria fusca], but less powerful, the Diomedea exulans in the Pacific being a much smaller bird than the one in the southern hemisphere, 'and will on comparison prove a distinct bird'
(12 Feb 1825) Coming in sight of the river [Columbia River] at longitude 136°W, but being prevented by the 'boisterous' weather from approaching the coast until 1 Apr: 'during this period we endured a thousand-fold more bad weather than on all our voyage'
(3 Apr 1825) Sunday. Coming in sight of Cape Disappointment [Washington], 28 miles away. The breeze carrying the ship close to the shore, but having to sail back to the sea due to another violent storm
(7 Apr 1825) Thursday. Attempting to approach the coast again. Managing to sail 'in perfect safety [to] this dangerous place' at 6am, being 40 miles away, managing to sail 'in perfect safety [to] this dangerous place'. Anchoring in Baker's Bay [Baker Bay, Washington], 'having had an interesting, though in some points a comparatively tedious voyage'
(8 Apr 1825) Friday. Torrential rain
(9 Apr 1825) Saturday. Going on shore with John Scouler. Seeing Rubus spectabilis and Gaultheria shallon on stepping on shore, and collecting various plants seen previously only in herbaria or in books. On his return to the ship, finding that 'a Canadian' and 'some natives' from the establishment [Hudson's Bay Company trading post] had brought fresh provisions: 'several canoes of Indians visited the ship and behaved civilly, bringing dried salmon, fresh sturgeon, and dried berries of various kinds, which they readily have, in exchange for trinkets, molasses and bread'
(11 Apr 1825) Monday. The ship sailing up the river and anchoring opposite the fort [Fort George, also known as Fort Astoria, Hudson Bay Company's trading post on the Columbia River, Washington] at Point Ellis [Point Ellice, Washington] on the north side of the river
(12 Apr 1825) Tuesday. Going on shore. Being received by 'the late Mr Alexander McKenzie [Alexander McKenzie, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader at Fort Vancouver. He was killed in 1828], who showed us all attention in his power'. The country along the coast mountainous and wooded, consisting primarily of pines of various species: 'for a more particular description of which, the reader is referred to the account of this family from the pen of Joseph Sabine [secretary of the Horticultural Society of London. Neither Sabine nor Douglas published Douglas's descriptions of the North American pines; for Douglas's draft manuscripts on this topic, see RHS/Col/5/2/3/1-2]'
Cape Disappointment, 'a remarkable promontory' rising above the sea to the north and forming a good landmark for ships entering the river. The 'noble stream' [Columbia River] being 4 1/2 miles wide, widening into deep bays with a rapid current. Seeing 'new or strikingly grand objects' on each excursion, and being particularly pleased at finding abundant Hookera lugens [Hookera ixioides var. lugens] and Menziesia ferruginea in the damp, shady forests
(16 Apr 1825) Having his papers and trunks sent on shore
(19 Apr 1825) Embarking in a small boat with the chief factor, Dr John McLoughlin [John McLoughlin, also known as Jean-Baptiste McLoughlin, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, chief factor at Fort Vancouver], 'who received me with every demonstration of good feeling, and gave me all kindly offices, which he had in his power to bestow'. Reaching their destination, Fort Vancouver [Hudson Bay Company's trading post on the Columbia River, Washington], the following evening. Fort Vancouver being 90 miles from the sea, and a few miles below Point Vancouver [Washington], 'the spot where the officers of that expedition terminated the survey of the river in 1792 [Douglas is referring to the Vancouver expedition, 1791-1795, to circumnavigate the globe, led by George Vancouver]'
The scenery on the riverbanks 'sublime', with high, wooded hills, mountains covered with perpetual snow, extensive meadows and fertile alluvial plains covered with grass and a profusion of flowering plants. The most remarkable mountains being Mount Hood [Oregon], Mount St Helens [Washington], Mount Vancouver [?Mount Rainier, Washington] and Mount Jefferson [Oregon], all covered in snow. Spending his time collecting plants until 10 May, including Ribes sanguineum, Berberis aquifolium, Acer macrophyllum, Scilla esculenta [Camassia scilloides] and Lupinus polyphyllus, the latter covering all low lands, growing up to six to eight feet high [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants]
Douglas's friend John Scouler visiting him for a few days. Returning with Scouler to the sea to bring back the remainder of his belongings, including the 'noble' Arbutus procera [Arbutus menziesii]. Purchasing excellent salmon cheaply from 'the native tribes'. Returning to Fort Vancouver at the end of the month, having collected 75 new species of plants, some birds and insects and four quadrupeds. Collecting seeds around Fort Vancouver
(20 Jun 1825) Joining boats travelling to the inland establishments [Hudson's Bay Company trading posts], going with them 'as far as it appeared to me to be advisable'. The ascent up the river being slow due to the strong currents, giving Douglas the opportunity of 'botanising' on the banks. Passing the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Bonneville Dam], on the second day, 46 miles from Fort Vancouver: 'the scenery at this place is romantic and wild, with high mountains on each side clothed with timber of immense size'. The rapid having been formed by the river passing through a narrow, rocky channel, 170 yards wide and two miles long, with small islands. Seeing petrified pine and Acer macrophyllum trees on the riverbanks
Seeing 'prodigious numbers' of salmon being fished with a small hoop or a scoop net fastened to the end of a pole. The fish being of excellent quality, weighing on average 15lbs. Seine nets used for fishing in the still parts of the river, 'with great success', with spindle-shaped pieces of the wood of Thuja plicata attached to the nets as corks and oblong stones as weights, the net made from the bark of Salix or Thuja and the cord of Apocynum piscatorium [Apocynum cannabinum]
The banks of the river steep, rocky and rugged for the 70 miles between the Grand Rapids and the Great Falls [Celilo Falls, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Dalles Dam], the hills gradually diminishing, with stunted trees: 'we are no longer fanned by the huge pine, Thuja or Acer, or regaled by Populus tremuloides forever quivering in the breeze. As far as the eye can stretch is one dreary waste of barren soil thinly clothed with herbage'. Seeing beautiful Clarkia pulchella, Calochortus macrocarpus, Lupinus aridus, Lupinus leucophyllus and Brodiaea. The riverbed at the falls being 600 feet below the former riverbed of decomposed granite. Being unable to proceed more than a few miles from the falls, but 'was amply repaid' by finding Purshia tridentata, Bartonia albicaulis [identification unresolved as at Sep 2018], Collomia grandiflora and several penstemons: 'in this journey, many fine plants were secured'
(19 Jul 1825) Leaving early in the morning in an 'Indian' canoe for the coast to carry out research, but his travels being 'frustrated by the tribe among whom I lived going to war with the natives to the northward, the direction I intended to follow. During my stay several persons were killed and some wounded in a quarrel'. The principal chief of the village, Cockqua [Cockqua, Lower Chehalis chief], treating Douglas with 'great fidelity'. Cockqua building Douglas a small cabin beside his own lodge, but Douglas having to abandon the cabin due to fleas and camp by the river a few yards from the village: 'he was so deeply interested in my safety, that he watched himself the whole night on which he expected the war party'. Witnessing the war dance of about 300 men, dressed in 'war garments' and singing death songs, 'which to me alone imparted an indescribable sensation'. The following day 400 warriors in canoes landing in the village, but the hostilities being suspended in the end
One of the chief's fishermen catching a large sturgeon, measuring 12 feet nine inches and seven feet around at the thickest part, probably weighing over 500lbs. Collecting plants and seeds, including Lupinus littoralis, Carex menziesii [Carex macrocephala], Juncus menziesii [Juncus falcatus], Vaccinium ovatum and Spiraea ariaefolia [Spiraea ariifolia] [here the journal includes a list of 6 more plants]. Buying from the villagers items of clothing, hunting and 'things used in domestic economy', paying for them with 'trinkets and tobacco'
(5-18 Aug 1825) Returning to Fort Vancouver. Drying plants. Making occasional short trips in the neighbourhood, but being frequently hampered by rainy weather
(19 Aug 1825) Leaving for the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel], a southern tributary of the Columbia River: 'a fine stream with very fertile banks'. Seeing fine waterfalls 36 miles from the Columbia, 43 feet high and spanning the whole river, the water dividing into three channels during the dry season, falling as one sheet in the summer: 'the portage over the falls was no small undertaking'. Killing several Cervus leucurus [Odocoileus virginianus leucurus] or long white-tailed deer, and some black-tailed deer
After two days' travelling, reaching the village of the Calapooie [Kalapuya] ('a peaceful, good-disposed people'), 24 miles above the falls. A hunting party setting out, leaving Douglas in the village for several days. Seeing a saline spring near his camp, with deer and a beautiful ringed species of Columba drawn to it in the mornings to lick the saline particles, 'which afforded me great amusement'
Collecting plants by the River Sandiam [Santiam River, Oregon], on the extensive plains surrounded by mountains, including Eschscholzia californica, Iris tenax, Nicotiana multivalvis [Nicotiana quadrivalvis var. multivalvis] and two new species of Trichostema. Hunting curious species of animals, including Myoxus, Mus, Arctomys [marmot] and a new species of Canis ('of singular habits'). Seeing 'in the tobacco pouches of the Indians' large pine seeds, eaten as nuts, and being told the trees grow in the mountains to the south: 'no time was lost in ascertaining the existence of this truly grand tree, which I named Pinus lambertiana, but no perfect seeds could I find [for a description of this tree published by Douglas entitled 'Mr David Douglas on a new species of Pinus', 1827, see the 'Transactions of the Linnean Society of London', volume 15, pages 497-500]'. Returning to Fort Vancouver, 'richly laden with many treasures'. Spending a few days drying and arranging seeds
(5 Sep 1825) Going to the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids], 'having engaged a chief [Chumtalia] as my guide, and accompanied by one Canadian'. Spending two days ascending the stream, despite the favourable sail wind. Pitching a camp near Chumtalia's house. Drenching the ground with water to prevent fleas, but not being entirely successful. Hearing of Douglas's wish to visit the summits of the mountains on the north side of the river, Chumtalia 'became forthwith sick, and soon found an excuse for exempting himself from this undertaking', but sent a younger brother and two young men from the village instead: 'the Canadian remained at the tent to take care of my boots etc, injunctions being given to Chumtalia to supply him with salmon and to see that nothing came over him'
To encourage the guides, giving them almost all of the provisions the first day, apart from a little tea, sugar and four small biscuits. Leaving their blankets at their first encampment, about two-thirds of the way up the mountain, intending to return there to sleep after visiting the top. Not reaching the summit before dark, having to climb over detached rocks and fallen timber. Killing and eating a young brown eagle: 'with a little tea made in an open kettle, and drunk out of bark dishes, and a good fire, passed a tolerable night without any bedding'. Drying clothes soaked with perspiration before going to sleep. Reaching the camp the following day at dusk, faint, weak and with sore feet
Spending time fishing and shooting seals (Phoca vitulina) in the rapids to recover from the exertions of climbing the summit. Chumtalia accompanying Douglas to another mountain on the south side of the river. Reaching the summit after 'a laborious march' of 15 hours, an easier ascent than the previous one. Finding two new species of pine, Pinus nobilis [Abies procera] and Pinus amabilis [Abies amabilis] ('two of the noblest species of the tribe'), Helonias tenax [Xerophyllum tenax], a new species of Rhododendron, a rare species of Pterospora, species of Ribes, Arbutus tomentosa [Arctostaphylos tomentosa] and several species of penstemon
(13 Sep 1825) Returning to Fort Vancouver. Being pleased to find John Scouler had successfully returned from the north: 'we sat and talked over our several journeys, unconscious of time, until the sun from behind the majestic hills warned us that a new day had come'
Spending the rest of the month packing bundles of dried plants and chests of seeds, birds and quadrupeds, and clothing. Putting aside a portion of each variety of seeds to send across the continent the following spring. Due to a slight wound, being unable to continue working for some weeks, 'which greatly distressed me at this important season of the year'
(22 Oct-15 Nov 1825) Learning that the ship had been detained by contrary winds, and deciding to visit Whitbey Harbour [Gray's Harbor, Washington] at latitude 48° to collect seaweeds and other plants [near the ships's anchorage]. Leaving with Alexander McKenzie and 'four Indians' in a small canoe. Camping at the junction of the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel] at sunset, after travelling only 20 miles, due to a strong westerly wind
Arriving at Oak Point village [Washington] at 8pm the following evening. Receiving a letter from John Scouler informing him the ship would not leave for a few more days. Continuing the journey to McKenzie's encampment, four miles below the village, to dine before resuming the journey. Having to stop at 4am on Monday 24 Oct due to a strong westerly wind. Carrying the canoe by land over Tongue Point [Oregon] before reaching the mouth of the river and finding out to his disappointment that the ship had sailed an hour before, the winds having changed to north-easterly
Sleeping on the north side of the river at the village of Comcomly, the Chenook [Chinookan] chief [chief of the Chinook confederacy]: 'this old man sent his canoe and twelve Indians to ferry us across the river' to Baker's Bay [Baker Bay], reaching the shore safely with the skilful canoers despite a violent storm, losing only a few pounds of flour and a little tea ('all our provisions with the exception of a few ounces of chocolate which I had in my pocket'). Camping near Knight's River [Wallacut River, Washington]
Travelling the following day a short distance over Cape Disappointment to a small lake, with a narrow stream flowing to the north. Reaching Cape Foulweather [Douglas appears to have been at Cape Shoalwater, Washington, and may be confusing the name with Cape Foulweather south of Columbia River, in Oregon] in the evening, having spent all day in the torrential rain. Sending the canoe back to the Columbia River, 'the Indians being anxious to return hastily, as we had not the means of feeding them'. The wind increasing to a hurricane, with sleet and hail. Moving the camp twice due to the rising water level, and having to shelter under a few pine branches and wet blankets, without any food
Leaving Cape Foulweather ('which name it truly deserves') and walking along the sandy beach 16 miles to Whitbey Harbour [Gray's Harbor], but finding the village deserted. Remaining in the village for several days, feeding 'scantily on roots of Sagittaria sagittifolia and Lupinus littoralis, called in the Chenook [Chinookan] tongue somuchtan, and from continual exposure to the cold and rain and the want of proper sustenance, I became greatly reduced'. Making a large fire to attract the attention of his guide's friends on the other side of the bay as soon as weather permitted. Being sent a canoe, staying on the other side of the bay, sharing the little food they had
Ascending Cheecheeler River [Chehalis River, Washington] for 60 miles in a canoe, 'when, from the deluges of rain and the advanced season, our zeal cooled and we gave up our voyage'. Paying the guide, 'The Beard' [Tha-a-muxi, also known as Tha-a-mutei, brother of Comcomly], for his assistance and for the loan of his canoe, and employing two new guides to take them overland to the Cow-a-lidsk River [Cowlitz River, Washington], a branch of the Columbia [Columbia River]
Taking two days to cover the distance of about 40 miles due to flooding of the plains, rivulets and the low, woody hills. Continuous rain. Eating all the berries collected during the journey, McKenzie suffering 'some inconvenience from having eaten a few roots of a species of Narthecium'. Finding at Cow-a-lidsk [Cowlitz River] a small boat, borrowed from the establishment [Hudson's Bay Company trading post] by Schachanaway, the chief [Scanewa, chief of the Cowlitz]. The chief giving them some roots, dried salmon and a goose (Anas canadensis) [Branta canadensis]. Descending the river to the Columbia the following day
(15 Nov 1825) Arriving at the establishment [Fort Vancouver]. Managing to save only the seeds of Helonias tenax [Xerophyllum tenax], Rubus spectabilis and a few others, but losing all the birds and seaweeds: 'I had suffered so much from my last trip, that little hope was left me for being able to do much good for this season, at least in botany'
Collecting 'woods and Musci, when opportunity favoured', but being frequently interrupted by heavy rains. Forming a 'tolerable collection' of preserved animals and birds between November and 20 March, including Tetrao sabini [Bonasa umbellus sabini], 'an endless variety' of Anas, several species of Canis, Cervus and Mus [here the journal includes a list of 4 more animals and birds]. A mild winter, with hardly any frost and no snow until 20 Feb
(20 Mar 1826) Deciding to spend a season in the interior of the country near the Rocky Mountains [Canada and United States of America]. With assistance from Mr McLoughlin [John McLoughlin] ('unremitting with his kind attentions'), embarking on a [Hudson's Bay Company] boat with two reams of paper: 'an enormous indulgence. Rather than go unprovided in this respect, I curtailed the small supply of clothing'
(24 Mar 1826) Reaching the falls. The country from the falls to the [Hudson's Bay Company trading] post Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Wallula] hilly, with sandy, barren soil, rocky riverbanks and no trees. Walking along the riverbanks on the way. Collecting plants, including 'the beautiful' Lilium pudicum [Fritillaria pudica], two new genera of Cruciferae and Ribes cereum. Being pleased to find a new species of Wulfenia
The riverbanks steep and rocky as far as the junction of the Spokane River [Washington and Idaho, United States of America], and the river rapid and difficult to ascend. Seeing some deer (Cervus leucurus or Cervus macrotis [Odocoileus virginianus leucurus or Odocoileus hemionus]), bears, wolves, foxes and badgers in the brushwood, composed of Purshia tridentata and Artemisia arborea [?Artemisia arborescens]. The most common birds being Tetrao urophasianus [Centrocercus urophasianus] and Tetrao urophasianellus [?Tympanuchus phasianellus], 'at this season of the year celebrating their nuptials on the gravelly shores of the streams'. In parts of the river, melting snow raising the water to 'the amazing height' of 43 feet above its ordinary level
(11 Apr 1826) Arriving at the junction of the Spokane River. Finding John W. Dease [John Warren Dease, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader]. Sending letters to England across the continent to Hudson's Bay [Hudson Bay, Canada]. Accompanying Dease to Kettle Falls [Washington; later submerged by Grand Coulee Dam], where Dease was setting up a new trading post: 'of all the places I have seen, this is by far the finest', with high, rugged mountains, fertile valleys with plentiful game and the 'immense body of water dashed over a pitch 24 feet perpendicular'
Collecting many fine plants during the journey. Eating primarily Tetrao richardsonii [Dendragapus obscurus richardsonii] and Tetrao urophasianellus [?Tympanuchus phasianellus]. Dease giving Douglas the use of three of his best horses and two hunters to accompany him to Spokane [Spokane House, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Spokane, Washington], about 70 miles to the north
(2 May 1826) Setting off towards Spokane [Spokane House]. Travelling slowly in the interesting country. Arriving late on the third day. Mr Jaques Finlay [Jacques Raphael Finlay, also known as Jaco Finlay, Canadian Scottish-Saulteaux fur trader and explorer] repairing Douglas's gun lock: 'on this occasion I felt happy in having it in my power to give him some assistance in provisions. For several days he had had nothing excepting a sort of cake made of Lichen jubatum [?Bryoria fremontii] of Linn [Carl Linnaeus, also known as Carl von Linne, botanist], and a few roots of Scilla esculenta [Camassia scilloides] and of Lewisia rediviva'
(14 May 1826) Sunday. Returning to Kettle Falls. Collecting plants, including Ribes viscosissimum, Ribes petiolare [Ribes hudsonianum var. petiolare], Ribes tenuiflorum [Ribes aureum], Astragalus glareosus [Astragalus purshii var. glareosus] and Pinus ponderosa [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants]. 'Young Finlay [one of Jaco Finlay's sons]' killing a large bear, Ursus horribilis [Ursus arctos horribilis]: 'it was too bulky to be preserved'
(5 Jun 1826) Joining Mr William Kittson [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] on a boat to Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces] on the plains. Intending to stay for four weeks to collect plants, having already gathered three large bundles of 'select' plants and 40 varieties of seeds, including Chelone scouleri [identification unresolved as at Oct 2018], Claytonia lanceolata, Erythronium maximum [Erythronium grandiflorum] and Rubus nutkanus [Rubus parviflorus]. Catching an interesting species of the bird Scolopax
(8 Jun 1826) 'At 6pm on the 8th our descent had averaged 115 miles a day, and the high water was not then at full height'. Collecting plants, including Penstemon deustus and Malva munroi [?Sphaeralcea munroana] on the narrows above Okanagan [Fort Okanogan, Hudson Bay Company's trading post, Washington], Eriogonum sphaerocephalum on the Stony Islands, Abronia vespertina [Abronia mellifera] and Phacelia ramosissima near Priest Rapids [Columbia River, Washington] and Penstemon speciosus on the clay hills above Okanagan and 'near the Big or Great Bend'
(17 Jun 1826) Saturday. Going to a ridge of high, snowy mountains, about 100 miles towards the south-east, with horses and guides. Leaving at 2pm, following the south bank of the River Wallawallah [Walla Walla River, Washington] to the base of the Blue Mountains [Oregon and Washington]
(20 Jun 1826) Tuesday. Setting off early in the morning to cross the mountain ridge. Stopping for breakfast at midday near a small well after 'the first snow-capped hump'. Proceeding slowly ('for the horses were weak') until 4pm. Stopping reluctantly, the horses being unable to continue in the deep snow. Leaving his two guides at the camp and proceeding alone. Reaching the summit at 6pm, the ascent being easier on the crusty snow higher up. Being surprised by a 'dreadful' thunderstorm, with lightning, hail and ice: 'in the dying gusts of the storm, one of the most sublime spectacles in nature presented itself: the declining sun had just partially gilt the top of the snowy mountains, and below a magnificent rainbow was nearly a perfect circle. All tended to impress the mind with reverential awe'
Having trouble with his guides: 'I might have crossed this ridge at a more southerly point, but the boy who served me as interpreter found little difficulty in preventing my guides from accompanying me'. Botanising on the eastern side of the mountains for a few days, and returning to the Columbia River on Sunday 25 Jun: 'all this time, toil, and some vexation, were not spent without being productive of some pleasure'. Finding 'in those untrodden regions, on the verge of eternal snow' Paeonia brownii ('the first ever found in America'), and at a lower elevation Lupinus sabinii ('whose beautiful golden blossoms gave a tint to the country that reminded me of Spartium scoparium [Cytisus scoparius]'), Trifolium megacephalum (Lupinaster macrocephalus, Pursh) [Trifolium macrocephalum], Trifolium altissimum [Trifolium douglasii or Trifolium beckwithii] and several new species of Phlox
Staying near the junction of Lewis and Clarke's River [Lewis and Clark River] until 8 Jul, but becoming 'tired of this barren country, which scarcely afforded food'. The unusually high water in the rivers preventing barriers being erected for catching salmon, therefore subsisting mainly on horse meat. Descending the river to Great Falls [Celilo Falls]. Meeting the 'brigade of boats' [of Hudson's Bay Company] on their way inland, with letters from England. Walking back to Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces] on Saturday 15 Jul
(16 Jul-5 Aug 1826) Leaving Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces], hoping to collect more plants and to learn more about the country. Joining a party of 28 men, commanded by Archibald McDonald [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] and John Work [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] ('to whom I was known and from whom I had many good offices'), on a mission to purchase horses from 'several Indian tribes' at the junction of Lewis and Clarke's River [Lewis and Clark River]. A very warm day. Stopping frequently to fish, but, being unsuccessful, having to 'destroy our horses as a means of support, and some of the men preferred dog's flesh'
Reaching their destination on 25 Jul. 'The following day was devoted to dancing and racing'. Visiting the Blue Mountains again, but having to return due to an insufficient supply of provisions. Collecting plants, including Penstemon glandulosus, Ribes irriguum and various seeds
One of the chiefs ('whose nation was the most powerful, not fewer in all than 700 warriors in his band') quarrelling with the interpreter Tosand about the accuracy of his translations. The men being summoned to arms: 'our party being divided, 14 on one side of the river, and 15 on the other, surrounded by a powerful armed party, our state was not an enviable one. The cool way in which we looked to these proceedings had a good effect on these persons. Rather than come to extremities, their ill temper was removed by presents. The next day was devoted to peace-making, smoking, haranguing, and dancing'. Remaining around the camp to collect plants
(31 Jul 1826) [The journal reads 31 Aug] Joining John Work, 'with 6 Canadian hunters and a band of 114 fine horses', to travel overland to Spokane [Spokane House], intending to spend a few days at Kettle Falls. Passing over undulating, dry country without trees, and cooking 'from stagnant pools full of lizards, frogs, water snakes, Lemna and Utricularia'. Stopping by a fine small lake with deep, clear, cool water beside a pine forest 30 miles south of Spokane River. Reaching Spokane the following morning. Continuing to Kettle Falls the same route as in May
(5 Aug 1826) Arriving at Kettle Falls
(6-15 Aug 1826) Collecting seeds of plants seen earlier in the summer. Hearing from John McLoughlin that a ship would sail on 1 Sep, and deciding to send his collection to England on this ship: 'I consequently made arrangements through Mr Dease [John Dease] to pass me on from one tribe to the other between this place and the sea'. Little Wolf ('a useful, fine fellow'), chief of a tribe living near Okanagan Lake [British Columbia, Canada; Little Wolf appears to have been the chief of Okanagan [Syilx] tribe]], being sent to accompany Douglas by land for the journey of 200 miles. Being delayed by a party of Cootanie [Kutenai, also known as Ktunaxa, Ksanka, Kootenay and Kootenai] Indians with an old grievance with Wolf. Restoration of the peace followed by a feast of several days. Dease giving Douglas three fine horses and 'a good little man, Robado, belonging to the Spokane tribe' to guide him to Okanagan [Fort Okanogan]
The country very interesting, 'to which justice cannot here be done'. Spending a day with Archibald McDonald. McDonald hiring a canoe for Douglas with two guides, an old man and his 14-year old son. Losing all the provisions navigating a rapid: 'I had to pay all my guides' losses'. Descending 800 miles down the river from Kettle Falls to the sea, '600 [miles] of that in Indian canoes'
(27 Aug 1826) Sunday. The canoe being wrecked in a dangerous narrow below Great Falls [Celilo Falls]: 'melancholy to relate, I lost the whole of my insects, a few seeds, and my pistols'. The canoe being replaced by Packenawaka [also spelled Pawquanawaka], 'the chief on the Falls', with a smaller and 'inferior' canoe. 'I procured one of my guides, Red Coat, who was a valuable man, as I understood his language'
Deciding to drift down the river through the nights, the river having no current until Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids]. Leaving the canoe 15 miles above the rapids to travel by land because of a strong easterly wind. His 'old guide' Chumtalia taking him to Fort Vancouver in one of his canoes
(30 Aug 1826) Arriving at Fort Vancouver and hearing that all his belongings had arrived safely. Spending the following day packing and writing letters to England
(1-20 Sep 1826) Making short journeys nearby and preparing for a journey to Northern California [Douglas was travelling to Oregon; in the 19th century, the area known as New California or Alta California comprised California, Nevada, Utah and parts of Arizona, Wyoming, Colorado and New Mexico, United States of America, with Oregon bordering this area to the north]
(20 Sep 1826) Wednesday. Travelling up Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel] 'by the same conveyance as last year'. Arriving at the old encampment on 22 Sep. Spending several days being spent 'collecting the horses and getting the baggage in travelling condition'. The party consisting of 30 men, commanded by Mr A.R. McLeod [Alexander Roderick McLeod, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, explorer]
(28 Sep 1826) Thursday. Travelling towards the south-east for two days. The country fertile and wooded, with small streams, plains and oak forests. Not seeing many deer, due to the burning of the plains by the Indians [to fertilise the ground]. Seeing Arbutus procera [Arbutus menziesii] growing to 30-45 feet high on the low, gravelly hills
(2-9 Oct 1826) Fine, clear, dry weather, with cool, dewy or foggy evenings. Travelling southwards, usually 10-16 miles a day, and camping at locations suitable for grazing horses and hunting. The country diverse, with hills and dales and numerous small streams. Finding many curious and beautiful plants, despite the late season
(9 Oct 1826) Monday. Crossing a low pine-covered hill 2,500 feet high: 'what delighted me greatly, was finding Castanea chrysophylla [Chrysolepis chrysophylla]', an evergreen, 'princely' tree, 60-100 feet high and 3-5 feet in diameter, its leaves dark glossy with rich golden yellow underneath: 'nothing can exceed the magnificence of this tree, or the strikingly beautiful contrast formed with the sable [black] glory of the shadowy pine, among which it delights to grow'. Pteris lanuginosa [Pteridium aquilinium] providing cover for deer. Killing several very large Cervus alces [Alces alces], but not finding the meat very good, 'as might be expected at this season of the year'
(10-15 Oct 1826) Passing another hill. Collecting several species of Clethra, including a fine Clethra grandis [unidentified]. Shooting several birds, including Sarcoramphos californica [?Sarcoramphus papa], Ortyx californica [Callipepla californica] and other beautiful species. Rainy weather making hunting difficult. Descending the banks of the Red Deer River [?Elk Creek, Oregon], running into the River Arguilar or Umpqua [Umpqua River, Oregon], 43 miles from the sea
(16 Oct 1826) Monday. A dull, foggy, raw morning. Crossing open hilly grounds before entering a dense wood. Hacking branches off trees to enable the horses to pass. Crossing three low ridges of hills. Some of the horses severely injured in descending the highest hill
Being pleased to find Laurus regia [?Umbellularia californica], a beautiful evergreen tree, in the deep dark valleys: 'a decoction made from the bark of which was used by the hunters as a beverage. So exceedingly powerful is the fragrant scent which it emits by the rustling of its leaves, that it produces sneezing', the smell resembling that of Myrtus pimenta [Pimenta dioica]
Camping close to the junction of the Red Deer River [?Elk Creek, Oregon] by the Arguilar River [Umpqua River, Oregon], a clear and rapid stream, 90 yards wide, divided into several channels, with a bed of soft white sandstone. 'My horses were of those broken down, but my little articles did not suffer, and Mr McLeod [Alexander Roderick McLeod] was kind enough to give me part of his bedding'
(17-23 Oct 1826) Attempting to travel up the river, 'with an Indian boy of [belonging to] Baptist Mackay [Jean Baptiste Desportes McKay, French-Algonquin free trapper] as my guide, but owing to an accident which befell me, and some little difficulties having arisen, I was obliged to return lamed and broken down'. The camp moving down the southern bank of the river, 23 miles from the ocean, where the tide and the forests ended. 'Our new Indians' from a nearby village bringing to the camp fine large salmon trout, weighing 15-25lbs
(23-31 Oct 1826) Centrenose, the chief of the village [Upper Umpqua chief] visiting the camp, appearing 'well disposed towards us'. Centrenose accompanying the party along the sea shore and promising his eldest son as a guide for Douglas up the river. Taking only two horses ('for my new guide had no experience with such animals') to carry his belongings. Returning to the place he had had to retreat from a few days previously. Crossing the river by the house of Centrenose, and being 'civilly and kindly entertained with salmon trout, hazelnuts and nuts of Laurus regia [?Umbellularia californica] roasted in the embers. Among the riches of his [Douglas's guide's] father's home were 15 wives, one of whom he was at pains to make me understand was his mother. He had himself been wedded only a few days, and had some reluctance of leaving his young bride'
Camping four miles up the river close to another village: 'the kind inhabitants kindled my fire, some brought me nuts, another salmon trout, a third water from the river to drink'
(24-25 Oct 1826) Tuesday-Wednesday: 'these were days of hard labour, wet and dreary', with hail, thunder and lightning at night. Crossing two high hills with difficulty, being obstructed by fallen trees: 'my poor horses were worn down to the greatest extremity'. Leaving his guide at the camp and continuing alone towards the south-east. Collecting plenty of Pinus lambertiana cones, but being left with only three, when 'a party of 8 Indians endeavoured to destroy me'. Returning to the camp and retreating speedily
Killing three large bears. 'With hostile Indians and incessant rains, together with the lateness of the season, fatigued and broken down I could have but little zeal to continue my exertions'. Returning to the sea to wait for Alexander Roderick McLeod's return from the south
(1 Nov 1826) Finding Michel Laframboise [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader and interpreter] and Jean Baptist Mackay [Jean Baptiste Desportes McKay] at the old camp. Being informed that 'the Indians were far from being friendly disposed'. Keeping watch. Douglas's new guides 'behaved in every way I wished, and I paid considerably beyond what I promised, which pleased them well'
(4 Nov 1826) Alexander Roderick McLeod returning: 'he had passed over a very interesting country, but found the tribes very hostile. One of his party was killed, and an Indian woman (the wife of one of the hunters) with 5 children were carried off. What became of them we never learned'
Remaining for a week and arranging the collections, before returning with two of McLeod's men to the Columbia River, not being equipped to spend the winter in the woods and not wanting to miss the opportunity to cross the Rocky Mountains in the spring [by York Factory Express or Columbia Express, Hudson's Bay Company annual fur brigade transporting supplies and despatches between Hudson Bay, Manitoba, Canada and Fort Vancouver in Washington]
Returning by almost the same route: 'in 12 days' hard labour, with great misery, hunger, rain and cold, but what gave me most pain was the nearly total loss of my collections crossing the River Sandiam [Santiam River, Oregon]'
(20 Nov 1826) Receiving 'pleasant' letters from London. Staying [at Fort Vancouver] until his departure for the coast on 9 Dec 'in hope of replacing some articles lost last winter. This was a still more unfortunate undertaking, for I had my canoe wrecked, and from the wet and cold returned home sick, having added nothing to my collection, save one new species of Ledum. The winter was spent in the same way as the former'
(6 Mar 1827) Thursday. Attempting another journey to the sea, but being prevented by rain. Packing up collections
(20 Mar 1827) Leaving Fort Vancouver for England by the annual [Hudson's Bay Company] express with John McLoughlin. The journey including 'if not many comfortable days, many pleasant ones. Though happy of the opportunity of returning to my native land, yet I confess I certainly left with regret a country so exceedingly interesting'. Walking the whole distance to Fort Colville on Kettle Falls [Fort Colvile, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Washington; Fort Colvile and Kettle Falls were later submerged by Grand Coulee Dam], a journey of 25 days: 'not a day passed but brought something new or interesting either in botany or zoology'. Seeing the beautiful Erythronium maximum [Erythronium grandiflorum] and Claytonia lanceolata in full bloom among the snow
(18 Apr 1827) Setting off with Mr Edward Ermatinger [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] and seven men for the Rocky Mountains: 'nothing of importance transpired'
(20 Apr 1827) Sailing across the lower and upper lakes with favourable winds. Reaching the end of the upper lake on Sunday 22 Apr. 28 miles further on the river taking 'a sudden bend, and to all appearances tosses itself in the mountain. A scene of the most terrific grandeur presents itself', the river narrowing to 35 yards, with rapids, whirlpools and eddies, surrounded by rugged perpendicular mountains 6,000-8,000 feet high, covered with enormous dead trees, torn out by the winds, bringing down rocks: 'passing this place just as the sun was tipping the mountain tops, his feeble rays now and then seen through the shady pine, imparted a melancholy sensation on beholding this picture of gloomy wildness'
(25 Apr 1827) Passing the Narrows of Death [Dalles des Morts, later submerged by Lake Revelstoke Reservoir, British Columbia, Canada], 'which takes its name from a melancholy story, which I cannot here relate, where 10 individuals endured almost unparalleled suffering and at last were all released by death but one'
(27 Apr 1827) Reaching the boat encampment at the base of the Rocky Mountains: 'how familiar so ever high, snowy mountains may have been to us, where in such a case we might be expected to lose that just notion of their immense altitude, yet on beholding the grand dividing ridge of the continent, all that we have seen before disappears from the mind and is forgotten, by the height, the sharp and indescribably rugged peaks, the darkness of the rocks, the glacier and eternal snow'. The Columbia River here 60 yards wide and the Canoe River 40 yards. Ascending the banks of the middle branch, 30 yards wide
(28 Apr 1827) Saturday. Tying up in a bundle the journals, a tin box of seeds and 'a shirt or two'. Setting off across the mountains towards the east. Crossing a low swamp three miles long, sinking knee-deep into the water through the ice at every step. Crossing a deep, muddy creek and a pine wood consisting of Pinus balsamea [Abies balsamea], Pinus nigra, Pinus alba [Picea glauca], Pinus strobus and Thuja plicata. Reaching the snow line at 11am. Walking with snow shoes difficult on the soft snow, 4-7 feet deep, covered with fallen trees. Camping by the middle branch of the Columbia River. Seeing no animals apart from two species of squirrels
(29 Apr 1827) Temperature 23°-43°. Continuing the journey at 4am after a refreshing night's sleep. Travelling eastwards for six miles. Crossing the river six times, 2 1/2 to 3 feet deep, with strong currents: 'though the breadth did not exceed 25 to 50 yards, the length of time in the water was considerable, for the feet cannot with safety be lifted from the bottom, but must be slid along - the moment the water gets under the sole, over goes the person'. Having to support each other while crossing. The valley three miles wide, dry during the present season but during the summer becoming an inland lake. Continuing towards the north-east for another four miles, including seven more fordings. Feeling very cold, their wet clothing becoming encased with ice: 'still withal no inconvenience whatever was sustained'. Wearing snow shoes to pass through another wood. Stopping around noon after 15 miles' journey, the snow being too soft to continue
The only plants collected being Aralia ferox [?Panax horridum], Dryas and Betula. Shooting a large wolverine ('[he] came to our camp to steal, for which he was shot'), several Anas canadensis [Branta canadensis] and a female Tetrao canadensis [Falcipennis canadensis]
(30 Apr 1827) Monday. Temperature 22°-43° at 700 feet above the river. Continuing the journey on snow shoes across the wood. Stopping at a second valley after 2 1/4 miles' journey and seven fordings of the same stream: 'we were obliged to cross it, keeping a direct line from point to point'. Reaching the end of the valley after four miles and four more fordings. The river dividing into two branches. Crossing between the two streams and ascending the Big Hill [?Grande Cote, Alberta or British Columbia, Canada]. Having difficulty keeping to the route with the footpath markings hidden below the deep snow: 'the steep ascent, the deep gullies, and brushwood and fallen timber rendered it laborious'. Camping two miles up the hill after nine miles' journey. The trees gradually becoming smaller. Not collecting any new plants or animals
(1 May 1827) Tuesday. Temperature 2°-44°. Reaching the summit at 10am. Descending the eastern side after a short rest. Camping at midday on a small open piece of ground by the 'smaller or east feeder of the Columbia [Columbia River]', with low trees of Pinus nigra, Pinus alba [Picea glauca] and Pinus banksiana. Preserving a fine male Tetrao franklinii [Falcipennis canadensis franklinii]
Setting off towards the highest peak after breakfast at 1pm, 'being well refreshed'. Estimating the mountain to be 6,000 feet high, or 17,000 feet above sea level. Passing over the lower ridge on snow shoes ('by far the most difficult and fatiguing part') and continuing more easily on the hard snow. Seeing a few mosses and lichens, Andreae and Jungermanniae. Not seeing any vegetation above 4,800 feet. The view from the summit 'too awful to afford pleasure - nothing as far as the eye can reach in every direction, but mountains towering above each other, rugged beyond all description. The dazzling reflection from the snow, the heavenly arena of the solid glacier, and the rainbow-like tints of its shattered fragments, together with the enormous icicles suspended from the perpendicular rocks, the majestic but terrible avalanche hurtling down from the southerly exposed rocks producing a crash and groans through the distant valleys, only equalled by an earthquake. Such gives us a sense of the stupendous and wondrous works of the almighty'. Naming the peak ('the highest yet known in the northern continent of America') Mount Brown [British Columbia, Canada], in honour of the botanist R. Brown [Robert Brown, Scottish botanist, fellow of Linnean Society], 'no less distinguished by the amiable qualities of his refined mind'. Naming another nearby mountain, nearly the same size, Mount Hooker [McGillivray Ridge, British Columbia, Canada. Neither Mount Brown nor Mount Hooker were, in fact, as high as Douglas assumed, although both were referred to as the highest mountains in North America until 20th century], in honour of his 'early patron, the enlightened and learned' William Jackson Hooker, 'to whose kindness I, in great measure, owe my success hitherto in life'. Seeing plants including Menziesia, Andromeda hypnoides [Harrimanella hypnoides], Gentiana, Lycopodium alpinum and Juncus biglumis [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants]
(2 May 1827) Wednesday. Having to rise at 3am to stoke the fire due to the cold. Passing through gradually rising, open pine wood and open ground to the basin 'of this mighty river', forming a small circular lake 20 yards in diameter at the centre of the valley, the Columbia River being a small outlet at the western end, and one of the branches of the Athabasca River [Alberta, Canada], a small outlet at the eastern end. The place, known as 'the Committee Punchbowl', being considered a halfway house, the most difficult part of the journey [across the continent] being over. Stepping over 'the little stream Athabasca', soon becoming a large river with cascades and limestone and basalt cauldrons. The Athabasca, like the Columbia, widening to a narrow lake, with a greater descent than the Columbia. The temperature much higher, and little snow left, except on the mountains. Stopping for breakfast at 10am 15 miles from the mountains. Temperature 2°-57°: 'we found it dreadfully oppressive'
Going ahead alone and getting lost. Seeing blue smoke curling from among the trees: 'a sign which gave me infinite pleasure'. Finding Jacques Cardinal [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader], with eight horses from the Moose Encampment [also known as Camp d'Orignal, Alberta, Canada]. Being given 'an excellent supper' of Ovis montana [Ovis canadensis]: '[he] regretted he had no spirit to offer me. After supper he jocularly said, pointing to the stream: 'this is my barrel, and it is always running''. Staying with Cardinal in his hut
(3 May 1827) Thursday. Jacques Cardinal bringing Edward Ermatinger and the rest of the party to his camp, having been worried about Douglas's disappearance. Continuing the journey after breakfast. Douglas preferring to walk rather than ride on horseback. The road soft and heavy from the melting snow, strewn with small, fallen trees: 'the difference of climate and of soil, and the amazing difference of the variety and size of vegetation are truly astonishing: one would suppose he was in another hemisphere, the change is so sudden and so great'
Intending to camp by the main branch of the Athabasca River, but continuing past it, Cardinal finding his horses 'so unexpectedly strong'. Reaching Rocky Mountain House [Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Alberta, Canada. There were several posts called Rocky Mountain House] at 6pm after a journey of 34 miles. Several partridges being killed. The only new plant being Anemone nuttalliana [Anemone patens] in full flower. The scenery fine, with a small lake and an open valley with a 'sublime' view of the mountains
(4 May 1827) Friday. Embarking on fine, light birch canoes at dawn and proceeding rapidly down the stream. The riverbanks low and wooded, sometimes widening out to narrow lakes with sand shoals. Stopping for breakfast of mountain sheep ('given to us by Cardinal's hunter') on a small low island. Passing a ridge of high, rugged mountains and the final dividing ridge. Arriving at Jasper House [Hudson's Bay Company trading post, at this time possibly located by Brule Lake, Alberta, Canada] at 2pm. Temperature 29°-61°
(5 May 1827) Saturday: 'this day admits scarcely any variety'. The river 100-140 yards wide, shallow and rapid, its low banks covered with poplars and pines. Seeing plenty of wildfowl: 'the northern diver [great northern diver or common loon] charmed us with his deep mellow melancholy voices in the evenings'. Travelling 93 miles
(6 May 1827) Being stopped by ice after three miles. Finding Mr George McDougall [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader]. The journey hampered by the canoes having to be carried across the portage to the main channel. Continuing the journey to Assiniboine [Fort Assiniboine, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Alberta, Canada], 184 miles from Jasper House. Continuing the journey the following day towards Lesser Slave Lake [Alberta, Canada], hoping to find Mr John Stuart [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader], 'as this place did not afford much food'. Continuing the journey with Stuart ('who treated me with the greatest kindness on every occasion'), travelling partly with the brigade and latterly alone on foot with one guide
(21 May 1827) Monday. Arriving at Fort Edmonton on the Saskatchewan River [Hudson's Bay Company trading post in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada]. Finding his small chest of seeds 'well attended to, through the kindness of Mr Rowand [John Rowand, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, chief factor at Fort Edmonton]'. Killing several curlews on the plains, and several Tetrao phasianellus [Tympanuchus phasianellus], the pin-tailed grouse of Edwards [George Edwards, British ornithologist, who published illustrations of birds] and Tetrao canadensis [Falcipennis canadensis] in the woods
(21-31 May 1827) The country woodless and uninteresting around Edmonton [Alberta, Canada]. Continuing the journey on John Stuart's boat to Fort Carlton House [Fort Carlton, Hudson Bay Company's trading post on the North Saskatchewan River, Saskatchewan, Canada]: 'our mode of travelling gave me little time to botanise', stopping only briefly for breakfast and at dusk to camp, the longest delays being to hunt buffalo and red deer
The scenery varied and picturesque, particularly near Red Deer and Eagle Hills [unidentified]. The soil dry and light, 'not unfertile. A rich herbage and belts and clumps of wood interspersed over it give it a romantic, beautiful appearance'. Many buffaloes and some red deer and antelopes being killed. The plain antelopes being so curious as to approach people within 100 yards, being particularly attracted by red clothing, while 'the buffalo is easily approached by a skilful hunter, and readily destroyed'. Collecting new plants, including Astragalus pectinatus, Phlox hoodii, Thermopsis rhombifolia, Hedysarum mackenzii [?Hedysarum dasycarpum] and seven species of Salix [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants]
Mr F. McDonald [Finan McDonald, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] being left 'dreadfully lacerated' after hunting buffaloes, being wounded at the back of his thigh, having some ribs broken, left wrist dislocated and being left severely bruised: 'these animals have a disposition not to destroy life at once, but delight to torture', pretending to be dead being the only chance to escape. McDonald having to lie still next to the buffalo, bleeding for two and a half hours, attempts at saving him hampered by the darkness and the proximity of the buffalo to the injured man: 'we were fearful to fire, lest a shot should take him. By the activity of Mr Harriott [John Edward Harriott, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] and my assistance, he was saved'. Douglas binding his wounds and giving 'all the assistance a small medicine chest and my slender knowledge could suggest'. Going to find Dr Richardson [John Richardson, doctor and naturalist accompanying John Franklin on his expedition], but finding he had left for Cumberland House [Hudson's Bay Company trading post on Saskatchewan River, Saskatchewan, Canada]
Meeting Mr Drummond [Thomas Drummond, Scottish botanist accompanying John Franklin on his expedition] at Carlton House [Fort Carlton], who had spent time in the Rocky Mountains by the sources of Athabasca River and Columbia River. Seeing Drummond's 'princely collection'. Intending to cross the plain to the Swan River [Manitoba, Canada] and Red River [Manitoba, Canada, and Minnesota and North Dakota, United States of America], but deeming it unsafe, 'from the hostile disposition of the Stone Indians [Assiniboine]'
Continuing the journey to Cumberland House. Seeing John Richardson's 'princely collection of natural history'. Noting down only the main stops, the country having previously been so well described by John Franklin ('now sir John'). Reaching Grand Rapids [Manitoba, Canada] at the entrance to Lake Winnipeg [Manitoba, Canada] after two days' journey from Cumberland House. Being detained by ice: after 'a few hours, it became rotten, sank and disappeared'. Continuing to Norway House [Hudson's Bay Company trading post on Lake Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada] across the lake. The shores covered with small trees, including Pinus alba [Picea glauca], Betula papyracea [Betula papyrifera] and Populus trepida [?Populus tremuloides], and mossy swamps with plants including Kalmia and Carex growing near springs or pools [here the journal includes a list of 5 more plants and trees]
(16 Jun 1827) Arriving at Norway House. Receiving letters from England. Meeting George Simpson, governor of Hudson's Bay Company, 'from whom I had great kindness'. Spending a few days at Norway House, awaiting the arrival of John Franklin. Joining Franklin in his canoe through the lake to the mouth of the Winnipeg River [Manitoba and Ontario, Canada]: 'this was at this season of the greatest moment, for I gained 12 days on the ordinary time usually taken to perform the trip'
(9 Jul 1827) John Franklin leaving Douglas to continue his journey. Arriving at the settlement on Red River [Red River Colony or Selkirk Settlement, later Manitoba, Canada] on 12 Jul. Staying with Donald McKenzie, governor of the colony [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, explorer, governor of Red River Colony], 'an excellent and good man, who during the whole of my stay showed me great kindness and afforded me much assistance'. Learning much from McKenzie and his knowledge and experience of the country west of the Rocky Mountains
Meeting Rev David Jones [David T. Jones, British missionary and Anglican minister at Red River Colony] and R.W. Cockran [William Cockran, British missionary and Anglican minister at Red River Colony] at the English Mission House, 'an excellent establishment, which owes its merit to the unremitting care and zeal of these gentlemen, whose useful lives are devoted to the little flock over which they preside'. Meeting Rev J.N. Provenchier [Joseph-Norbert Provencher], the Roman Catholic bishop, 'a gentleman of liberal disposition and highly cultivated mind, who lives only to be useful and to do good'
The soil very fertile, with a deep alluvial stratum of brown loam on gravel and limestone, and the settlers appearing to live comfortably and happily. The crops being liable to attack by grasshoppers, but the wheat free of 'smut and rust'. The cattle, pigs and horses thriving, but sheep had not been introduced
Collecting 288 species during the month's stay, 'many of which were new to me, and I felt truly happy at having devoted a little time to it'. Leaving the settlement with Mr Hamlyn [Richard Julian Hamlyn], the surgeon of the colony. After a 'somewhat tedious passage through the lake', arriving at York Factory at Hudson's Bay [Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Hudson Bay, Manitoba, Canada] and being kindly received by the chief factor, John George McTavish, 'who had had the kindness to get made for me some clothing, my travelling stock being completely worn out'
'Here my labours ended, and I may be allowed to state, when the natural difficulties of passing through a new country are taken into view, the disposition of the native tribes, in fact the varied insufferable inconveniences that daily present themselves, I have great reason to look on myself as highly favoured. All that my feeble exertions may have done only stimulated us to future exertion. The whole of my botanical collection, save a few that came intimately within the Society's Minute, were, agreeably with my anxious wishes, given for publication in the forthcoming American Flora from the pen of Dr Hooker [William Jackson Hooker, 'Flora Boreali-Americana; or, the Botany of the Northern Parts of British America: compiled principally from the Plants collected by Dr Richardson and Mr Drummond on the late northern expeditions, under command of Captain Sir John Franklin, RN, to which are added (by permission of the Horticultural Society of London), those of Mr Douglas, from North-West America; and of other Naturalists', 1829]'
Sailing from Hudson Bay on 15 Sep 1827, and arriving at Portsmouth on 11 Oct 1827 after 'a most gratifying trip'
Extent - 1 volume
Repository - Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library
Copyright - Royal Horticultural Society
Credit Line - RHS Lindley Collections
Usage terms - Non-commercial use with attribution permitted (CC BY-NC 4.0)