Second expedition of David Douglas: Journal 3

Title

Second expedition of David Douglas: Journal 3

Record type

Archive

Original Reference

RHS/Col/5/2/1/3

Date

1 Mar 1826-28 Aug 1827

Scope & content

David Douglas's journal, on the Columbia River and across the continent of North America to Hudson Bay, Canada

Overview of contents:
Pages 1-85: Narrative of journey, 1 Mar-31 Aug 1826
Pages 97-240: Narrative of journey, 31 Aug 1826-28 Aug 1827

Physical description: Unbound manuscript enclosed in a 20th-century paper wrapper labelled 'D. Douglas, Journal of an expedition to NW America, March 1 1826 to Aug 28 1827. Originals – see watermark John Davis[?]'. The pages are in gatherings, with many loose pages and enclosures, including some pages with protruding edges. The edges of some of the pages are torn. There is a small burnt hole on pages 13-14. Fragile. Handle with care

The journal is divided into three parts, with separate original pagination for the first two parts; the third part is paginated in pencil by the editors of the 1914 transcription, continuing from the second part. The first part (paginated 1-85) was sent to England on 1 Sep 1826 from Fort Vancouver on Columbia River in Washington, United States of America, and the second part (originally paginated 1-103) was sent to England in June 1827 from Norway House in Manitoba, Canada, along with collections of specimens and seeds. The third part (paginated 104-131) ends with Douglas's arrival in England. The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing

The volume is written on both rectos and versos in David Douglas's hand. There are annotations in pencil by the editors of the 1914 edition of Douglas's journal, clarifying spellings and sentence structures, a pencil title on the first page ('Douglas. Journal of Expedition to NW America, March 1, 1826-Aug 28, 1827') and a title in ink written in the same hand on the cover ('D. Douglas, Journal of an expedition to NW America, March 1, 1826 to Aug 28 1827. Originals – see watermark John Davis[?]'). The initial blank sheet is later, and includes a watermark 'Snelgrove 1833'

Illustrations: There is a small drawing of a sugar pine (page 29, within the entry of 26 Oct 1826)

Enclosures: The volume includes 12 inserted leaves, pasted in the gutter or loose within the pages, containing additional notes by Douglas, primarily relating to plants or animals (pages 9, 11, 15, 17, 17, 17, 22a, 22a-b, 24, 25, 33, 59)

Summary of contents:

(1-20 Mar 1826) Packing plants, birds 'and other things' in two boxes to be sent to England, and preparing for the journey to the interior. Constant rain, temperature 35°-55°, with westerly winds. With assistance from Mr McLoughlin [John McLoughlin, also known as Jean-Baptiste McLoughlin, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, chief factor at Fort Vancouver], packing up 30 quires of paper, weighing 102lbs, 'which, with the whole of my other articles, is by far more than I could expect when the difficulty and labour of transportation is taken into consideration'. Packing in a small tin box 197 seed papers, to be sent across the continent to Hudson's Bay [Hudson Bay, Canada]. Dried plants being too bulky to be sent on that route and more likely to reach England in good condition by sea, as otherwise the chests would have to be lined with 'tin or some such article, to preserve them against water, things which cannot be had in this country'

(20 Mar 1826) Leaving Fort Vancouver [Hudson Bay Company's trading post on the Columbia River, Vancouver, Washington, United States of America] in the afternoon along with John McLeod [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, explorer], on his way to Hudson's Bay, and Mr Francis Ermatinger [possibly in fact Francis's brother, Edward Ermatinger; both the brothers were Hudson's Bay Company fur traders], with 'two boats and 14 men'. A rainy day. Camping among poplars and willows on the north side of the river, a few miles from the establishment [Hudson's Bay company trading post]

Continuing the journey at dawn, but not managing to proceed more than 35 miles up the river in the strong easterly wind. Camping seven miles below the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Bonneville Dam]. Continuous rain.

Camping on a small, stony island ten miles above the rapids the following night. The rapids 'seen to advantage', the river being low, and the scenery 'grand beyond description', with high, pine-covered mountains: 'the rainbow from the vapour of the agitated water, which rushes with furious rapidity over shattered rocks and through deep caverns, producing an agreeable although at the same time a somewhat melancholy echo through the thick wooded valley. The reflections from the snow on the mountains, together with the vivid green of the gigantic pines, form a contrast of rural grandeur that can scarcely be surpassed'

(23 Mar 1826) Thursday. Strong westerly wind. Continuing the journey at dawn. Reaching the lower part of the Dalles [Columbia River, Washington] at dusk, six miles below the Great Falls [Celilo Falls, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Dalles Dam]. Camping in a small cove under a 'shelving rock'. A fine, pleasant night with moonlight. 'As the natives had collected in greater numbers than expectation, and showed some disposition to be troublesome, not getting such a large present of tobacco as they want, we were under the necessity of watching the whole night'. Using some of his remaining wax tapers [candles] ('which I lay great value on') for writing a note to Mr Murray at Glasgow [Stewart Murray, curator of the Glasgow Botanic Gardens]. Arranging Musci collected the previous day

(24 Mar 1826) Friday. Relieved in the morning, 'after a tedious night [...] being surrounded by at least 450 savages, and [who] judging from appearances, [were] everything but amicable. As no one in the brigade could converse with them better than myself, little could be done by persuasion'. Finding two men who understood the Cheenook tongue, 'with which I am partially acquainted' [Chinookan is a language group comprising several now extinct languages, and Chinook jargon, with which Douglas was familiar, was used as a pidgin trade language in the Pacific Northwest in the 19th century]

Having breakfast at 7am on the rocks at the Dalles [Columbia River, Washington], four miles below the Great Falls [Celilo Falls]. A clear, pleasant day. Crossing the falls at 5pm, 'where we found the Indians very troublesome'. John McLeod saying they were intending to pillage the boats. Presenting them with tobacco and being asked by them to camp for the night, 'no doubt expecting to effect their purpose. The first thing that was observed was their cunningly throwing water on the gun locks, and on the boats being ordered to be put in the water, they refused to allow them'. One of the men threatening to shoot McLeod with a bow and arrow: 'as I was standing on the outside of the crowd, I perceived it and as no time was to be lost, I instantly slipped the cover off my gun, which at the time was charged with buckshot, and presented it at him, and invited him to fire his arrow, and then I should certainly shoot him'. The chief of the Kyeuuse [Cayuse] with three young men of the same tribe, 'who are the terror of all other tribes west of the mountains, and great friends of the white people as they call them', stepping in and settling the matter with a few words: 'this very friendly Indian, who is the finest figure of a man that I have seen, standing nearly 6 feet 5 inches high', accompanying the party a few miles up the river to the camping place, after being remunerated by McLeod for his help: 'I being King George's chief, or the Grass Man, as I am called, bored a hole through the only shilling I had, one which has been in my pocket since I left London, and the septum of his nose being perforated, I suspended it to it with a brass wire. This was to him the great seal of friendship'. The chief returning to the village after smoking, promising that there would be no more trouble

Unable to sleep, Douglas writing a letter to Dr Hooker [William Jackson Hooker, professor of botany at the University of Glasgow and director of the Glasgow Botanic Gardens]. Heavy rain during the night

(25 Mar 1826) Resuming the journey at dawn. Sleet and rain, with a northerly wind: 'being almost benumbed with cold, I preferred walking along the banks of the [river]', despite the path being rugged. Camping 40 miles above the Falls [Great Falls, or Celilo Falls], 'much fatigued'. Finding his knee painful and stiff during the night and the following morning

(26-28 Mar 1826) Clear, warm weather, temperature 50°-64°. Arriving at the establishment of Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Wallula, Washington] at 3pm. Being kindly received by S. Black [Samuel Black, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, explorer], 'the person in charge'

Seeing no trees growing on the gravel and rock plains. Using Tigarea tridentata [Purshia tridentata] as fuel for boiling their little kettle. Seeing several curious species of shrubby Artemisia, and other unknown shrubs: 'the whole herbage [is] very different indeed from the vegetation on the coast'. Seeing a ridge of high, snowy mountains towards the south-east, 90 miles away, terminating near the ocean, about 300 miles south of the Columbia [Columbia River, Washington and Oregon, United States of America, and British Columbia, Canada]. Expecting to find there most of the plants found in the Rocky Mountains [Canada and United States of America], Black having arranged a journey for him in early June for 14-15 days. The river running south-west towards the ocean, with rapids in many places making it very dangerous

(30 Mar 1826) Thursday. Continuing the journey early in the morning. Walking on the plains along the river until 10am. Stopping for breakfast opposite Lewis and Clark's River [Lewis and Clark River, Oregon], 'a stream of considerable magnitude', 100-150 yards wide. Hearing there were plenty of salmon to be caught as far up as the Falls [Great Falls, or Celilo Falls]. A fine, clear day. Writing a note to Mr Atkinson [William Atkinson, architect in London, who Douglas knew from Scotland; Atkinson also employed Douglas's brother John Douglas]

Resuming walking in the cool evening, 'picking any[thing] on my way'. Camping on a low, grassy island 40 miles from the establishment [trading post]. Seeing no trees. The soil light brown earth, sandy and gravelly on the riverbanks. Seeing several species of Lupinus, Oenothera and other Syngenesia, and 'the beautiful Tigarea' on sandy hills blown by the wind. A keen north wind

(31 Mar 1826) Friday. Clear weather, and a fine sky in the evening

(1 Apr 1826) The country becoming mountainous, composed of white clay with no vegetation except in the valleys. The river broadening with a large bend, running parallel with the coast. Camping on the Priest Rapids [Columbia River, Washington] at 7pm. The river narrowing, divided into two channels with a narrow dell through the small rocky island. The rocks rugged limestone: 'this is considered one of the most dangerous parts of the whole river'. Writing to his 'old companion' Mr Scouler of Glasgow [John Scouler, naturalist and surgeon on the William and Ann]

(2-6 Apr 1826) Continuing the journey each day at dawn and camping at dusk. Arriving at 8pm at the establishment on the Okanagan River [Fort Okanogan, Hudson Bay Company's trading post, Washington], a northern branch of the Columbia River. Being cordially received by Mr Annance, 'the person in charge' [Francis Annance, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader]. The riverbanks steep granite and sandstone, with an 'immense' species of Pinus ('Pinus rubra? [?Pinus sylvestris, Pinus resinosa or Picea rubens]') growing in the valleys and in damp places. Not being able to collect anything due to snow, up to five feet deep in some places

(7-8 Apr 1826) Searching unsuccessfully for grouse on the plains. Seeing only one small black partridge, 'the same as that sent home in 1825'

(9 Apr 1826) Continuing the journey early in the morning on horseback 'in company with my companions', to meet the boats up the river. The path around the mountain very rough, with broken stones covered with snow. Seeing beautiful yellow lichen on dead brushwood: 'it affords a very durable, beautiful yellow colour, and is used by the natives in dyeing'. The snow two to four feet deep. Meeting the boats at 11am and continuing the journey by boat after breakfast. A dry and pleasant day with a beautiful clear sky in the evening. Camping after 20 miles

(10-11 Apr 1826) Monday-Tuesday. The weather warm and pleasant, temperature 55°-69°. Arriving at sunset at the junction of the Columbia River and the Spokane River [Washington and Idaho, United States of America]. Finding John Warren Dease [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] with a party of 14 men, on their way to Kettle Falls [Washington; later submerged by Grand Coulee Dam], 90 miles up the Columbia: 'I was by this gentleman received with extreme kindness and had every attention and kindness that could add to my comfort', Dease being the brother of 'the gentleman now accompanying Captain Franklin [Peter Warren Dease, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader and arctic explorer accompanied John Franklin on his expedition] on his two journeys to the Polar Sea [Arctic Ocean]'. Being introduced to Dease by 'the general notice sent by that agreeable gentleman Mr McLoughlin [John McLoughlin]'. This part of the river the most beautiful and varied, with extensive plains and groups of pine trees ('like an English lawn'), rising bluffs covered with small brushwood and rugged rocks covered with ferns, mosses and lichens

(12 Apr 1826) Drying wet papers and some small plants collected during the journey. Writing to Joseph Sabine [secretary of the Horticultural Society of London], Mr Munro [Donald Munro, gardener at the Horticultural Society of London] and Douglas's brother [John Douglas]. Copying his notes. Pleasant weather

(13 Apr 1826) Thursday. Copying notes for John McLeod to take with him to Hudson's Bay the following day: 'I am particularly obliged also to this gentleman for his friendly attention. He has in the most careful manner taken my small tin box of seeds in his own private box, and will hand it over to Mr McTaust [?John George McTavish, chief factor of Hudson's Bay Company at York Factory]'

Meeting Mr John Work [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader], being acquainted with him from the previous year, Work having sent him some seeds from the interior and given him information about the local plants. Noting that the package of seeds 'marked 'wormwood of the voyageurs' is Tigarea tridentata [Purshia tridentata], [and] that marked by myself as if with a query, is a very fine species of Crataegus found only in the interior'. Intending to continue the journey to Kettle Falls, stopping 'at the different posts as appear most advantageous to my views'

Collecting plants during the journey (specimens 1-33), including a species of Salix ('male and female, a small scrubby tree, found near rivulets and moist ground in the mountain valleys'), a species of Geranium ('[annual], leaves compoundly pinnate, flowers small, azure purple. On the sides of rivers in sandy and gravelly soils. Plentiful'), a species of Lilium ('Lilium pudicum [Fritillaria pudica] of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh, botanist]. I find that No 25 of 1825, which I mistook for it, will prove still a more interesting plant, perfectly distinct from the genus Lilium, the style being invariably 3-cleft. The present, which agrees perfectly with his description, is found in great abundance from the falls upwards on all dry, light soils. This highly ornamental plant I must try to preserve roots to send home. Roots eaten both raw and roasted on the embers by the natives, and are collected in July and dry [dried] in the sun for winter store'), a species of Sisyrinchium ('[annual], 8 inches to a foot high, on the summit of the low hills, plentiful. A white flowered variety is usually found with it') and a species of Pulmonaria ('[perennial], glaucous leaves, sessile. Flowers blue. A small plant 4 to 8 inches high. Abundant on the plains and open woods') [here the journal includes a list of approximately 30 more plants]

[There are two inserted leaves pasted into the volume at this point, with additions to the list of plants: 'Ribes aureum is seldom seen to bear fruit in rich soils, and the little to be seen is small, sickly, and liable to be attacked with insects. On the rare channels of rivers where there is scarcely any soil, in rocky, dry situations on the banks of rivers it thrives less luxuriant, it bears by far more abundantly and the fruit is of better quality, particularly so if there is a portion of lime in the soil or rock. The fruit is large, about the size of the common white currant, in thick close strings with an exquisitely fine flavour. Nuttal [Thomas Nuttall, botanist in America] observes that on the Missouri [Missouri River, Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Iowa, Kansas and Missouri, United States of America] the black variety is the more abundant. Here it is rarely seen. That most common is a deep amber or between that and sulphur-yellow. Perhaps it might be well to try it in a very dry, poor soil with a little lime. June 27th', '[Specimen] 24, Phlox speciosa of Pursh is rarely to be seen in perfect seed. The intense heat, which generally sets in in May, long ere they arrive at maturity, completely dries them up. I found with difficulty a few on the plains in June and in July; on the high mountains near the N [north] and S [south] branches of Lewis and Clark's River [Lewis and Clark River], I found a larger quantity, being in a more temperate situation. Aug 5th']

(16-19 Apr 1826) Sunday-Wednesday. Making small trips near the junction of the Spokane River, 'being so early in the spring, more for the purpose of viewing the soil and face of the country with any bird or animal I might pick up'

(19 Apr 1826) Wednesday. Leaving at 11am with John Warren Dease and his party of 14 men and two boats for 'the new intended establishment called Fort Colville', near Kettle Falls [Fort Colvile at Kettle Falls, Hudson Bay Company's trading post, Washington; Fort Colvile and Kettle Falls were later submerged by Grand Coulee Dam]: 'I am much indebted to this gentleman for the care he took in placing my paper and other articles in a safe place in the boat, and for the kindness he showed myself by inviting me to a seat in his own boat'

The country becoming more mountainous and rugged nearer the Rocky Mountains, with thick woods of three species of Pinus, 'Pinus resinosa?', a tree resembling Pinus taxifolia [?Abies balsamea or Pseudotsuga menziesii], larger than on the coast, and Pinus larix [Larix decidua] in the mountain valleys: 'much larger than any I have seen on the other side of the continent, or even read [about]', measuring 30 feet in circumference, and some felled by storms 144 feet long, with clean and perfectly straight wood. Seeing thick grass on the plains and in the valleys, with several species of shrubs growing in the snow among the rocks. Warm during the day and frosty at night, temperature 28°-65°. Camping by the river 'as no place could be found more suitable', after 27 miles' journey in the rapid river

(20 Apr 1826) Thursday. Continuing the journey at 4am. Proceeding 40 miles on foot, 'except being crossed three times, as I could not pass by steep rocks'

(21 Apr 1826) Friday. Continuing the journey at dawn. Arriving at a rapid, almost as large as the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids], but unnamed, and breakfasting earlier than usual, at 9am. Calling the rapids Thomson's Rapids [also known as Grand Rapids or Rickey Rapids, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Franklin D. Roosevelt Lake], 'after the first person who ever descended the whole chain of the river from its source to the ocean [David Thompson, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader and surveyor, who navigated the full length of the Columbia River in 1811]'. Rain from 10am until 4pm

Arriving at the falls [Kettle Falls] at 6pm, 'thoroughly drenched to the skin, and gladly walked over the portage 3/4 of a mile to a small circular plain surrounded by high hills on all sides, where the new establishment is to be'. Pitching tents and eating 'a comfortable supper of salmon trout and dried buffalo meat, served up to us by the man who started the day before us with a band of horses'. Finding it difficult to keep plants dry despite having covered them with a double oilcloth. Changing specimen papers and placing them under pieces of bark near the fire for the night to dry

The Falls being a perpendicular pitch of 24 feet across the northern branch of the river, the southern branch being smaller with a semi-circular curve, and a small rocky island with a few stunted trees where the channels divide. The river 43 yards wide 'where it leaves the cascade in snowy flakes of foam'. The country 'exceedingly picturesque' and grand

(23 Apr 1826) Heavy rain and snow on the hills. Changing specimen papers

(24 Apr 1826) Clear and cold. Walking southwards to a hill. Seeing three species of a shrubby Penstemon with dried capsules. Killing three partridges, the same species as the male bird sent to England, a very rare bird near the coast, found on the hills among rocks, rarely on the plains, but not a shy bird: 'when raised, they fly a few yards and will either light on a rock or on a pine, where they can be easily killed'. Uncertain of the number of young or the colour of their eggs. Preserving the birds, 'as I had spare time'

(25-26 Apr 1826) Tuesday-Wednesday. Clear and cold. Taking a short walk by the river. Collecting plants (specimens 34-36), including a species of Acer ('flowers green, young shoots red. A small shrub, 4 to 14 feet high in low woods near springs or moist grounds'), a species of Betula ('a tree sometimes attaining the height of 20 to 30 feet and 9 inches to a foot diameter. On the margin of mountain springs and rivulets, where it is found most abundantly') and a species of Trillium ('flowers sessile, brownish-red, leaves ovate-orbicular, a fine species, inhabiting low moist, peaty soils among Betula and Salix. This I take to be Trillium ovatum of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh]'). Seeing Berberis aquifolium ('in greater abundance than in the lower country, plants much smaller, and a greater profusion of blossoms, growing among shattered rocks where there is scarcely any earth') and Collinsia of Nuttall [Thomas Nuttall]

Killing a male curlew and preserving the skin, 'having a spare hour in the evening'. The birds plentiful on the dry plains, perching in trees when shot at, different from the European curlews that lived near morasses or damp ground. Finding an egg in a nest, a similar size to a partridge egg, light brown with blue spots and a pointed end

(27-28 Apr 1826) Cold with rain showers and snow on the hills. Collecting plants (specimens 37-38), including Erythronium grandiflorum of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh] ('this exceedingly beautiful plant came under my notice 15 or 16 days ago, but being not then in blossom, I took it for Fritillaria. Abundant over all the undulating country, under the shade of solitary pines, in light dry soils. It has a most splendid effect in conjunction with Dodecatheon and a small species of Pulmonaria. Omit not to procure seed and roots of such a desirable plant') and Claytonia lanceolata of Pursh ('abundant in all open pine woods, in light soils. Its small roots are eaten by the natives, both in a raw state and cooked by roasting in the embers. When raw it is bitter and in every shape an insipid root. This species is different from most others of the genus, as it is seldom seen luxuriant in rich soils, such as near old villages or encampments')

(29 Apr-1 May 1826) Saturday-Monday. Variable weather with showers, temperature 28°-56°. Collecting plants (specimens 39-42), including Pinus larix [Larix decidua] ('abundant in the valleys. I have already observed that its size is much greater than any on the other side of the continent'), Shepherdia of Nuttall [?Shepherdia argentea] or Hippophae of Pursh [?Lepargyrea argentea] ('leaves ovate-lanceolate, deciduous, covered with rusty scales on the underside and stellately silky on the upper. Stamens eight, situated between the calyx and the eight glands. An upright slender shrub, 5 to 10 feet high, inhabiting the subalpine grounds under partially shady woods. I am for the present unable to find the female' [added on a separate slip of paper, pasted on to the page: 'I have with much care, but in vain, endeavoured to find this curious species in perfect fruit, although the males and females are usually seen together. Aug 15']), a plant in the class and order Diandria, Monogynia ('[perennial], calyx 3-partite, capsule 2-celled, seeds unknown. Radical leaves cordate, serrate, glabrous, on long petioles, cauline sessile or somewhat amplexicaul, with small ovate bractea at each flower, filaments red. A plant 1 to 2 1/2 feet high, flowering in a spike. Found abundantly on the plains among grass and several species of Artemisia and other Syngenesia not yet in blossom') and Claytonia alsinoides [Claytonia sibirica] ('Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh], flowers small, white, a small plant, found on all rich soils near rivers')

(2 May 1826) Tuesday. Rainy, with snow on the hills

(3-4 May 1826) Wednesday and Thursday. Walking on the southern bank of the river. Collecting plants (specimens 42-47 [includes some apparent overlap with previous specimen numbers]), including two species of Rosa and an evergreen shrub, possibly Clethra ('abundant in the woods, from the great profusion of mutilated capsules. This must be a plant worthy of strict attention'), a species of Viola ('leaves cordate, nearly entire, smooth, flowers blue, a small stemless plant. 2 to 4 inches high, plentiful on low, open, moist ground'), a species of Umbellifera ('[perennial], flowers purple, one of the strongest of the tribe found in the upper country. The tender shoots are eaten by the natives. Very plentiful in all rocky situations and sandy soils near rivers') and a species of Vaccinium ('[perennial], flowers pink colour. A small plant, 4 to 6 inches high, in open pine woods' [added on a separate slip of paper pasted onto the page: 'fruit abundant, small, globular, colour light brown, with an agreeable acid [flavour]. Jul 19']) [here the journal includes a list of 5 more plants]. Temperature 36°-57° with a northerly wind

(5 May 1826) Friday. Walking to the hills on the opposite side of the river. Collecting a species of Viola (specimen 48) ('[perennial], leaves ovate-lanceolate, smooth, flowers yellow. Seldom exceeding 6 or 8 inches high, abundant on open ground')

(6 May 1826) Saturday. Rain. Making an excursion to the opposite side of the river. Killing a small female pheasant, a shy bird and difficult to shoot. Endeavouring to preserve the skin, but 'the plumage is not so fine as I should have wished, very thin on the breast, probably hatching its eggs'. Seeing two species of Prunus not in blossom, and a fine species of Penstemon coming to flower, with lanceolate-denticulate leaves and red flowers. Returning at dusk

Collecting plants (specimens 49-53), including Gymnocaulis uniflora [identification unresolved as at Aug 2018] ('of Nuttall [Thomas Nuttall], on moist, shady places near Kettle Falls on Columbia River. In the same place I picked up Pterospora andromedea, measuring 4 1/4 feet high'), a species of Carex ('a small plant, 4 to 6 inches high, on elevated grounds, plentiful'), a species of Musci and a species of Polytrichum [here the journal includes a list of 5 more plants]

(7 May 1826) Sunday. Arranging plants and changing specimen papers. Drying clothes. A pleasant day, temperature 47°-61°

(8 May 1826) Monday. Weather cold and raw with hail showers. Walking to a nearby meadow, but not finding anything new

(9 May 1826) Tuesday. Leaving Kettle Falls at 10am with two horses, one for the provisions ('buffalo dried meat, a little tea and sugar, my blanket and paper'). His two guides being the sons of Mr Jaques Raphael Finlay [Jacques Raphael Finlay, also known as Jaco Finlay, Canadian Scottish-Saulteaux fur trader and explorer], 'a Canadian Sauteur [Saulteaux]' living in the abandoned establishment of Spokane [Spokane House, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Spokane, Washington], with extensive knowledge of the country and the local wildlife. John Warren Dease sending Finlay a note asking him to show Douglas 'anything that he deemed curious in the way of plants etc'

Going northwards over the mountains towards the Spokane River, 100-110 miles away. The path along the bottom of the mountain being 'scarcely passable' due to melting snow running down the mountain in rivulets, flooding the meadows and forcing Douglas to take a longer route. Camping under a large pine on a plain at 4am, after 27 miles' journey. Hobbling his horses. Walking around the camp

Collecting plants (specimens 54-55), including a plant in the class and order Pentandria, Monogynia ('[perennial], calyx 5-cleft, obtuse. Corolla five, narrower than the calyx, stigma bifid, flowers white, half the inside of the corolla covered with strong yellow hairs and purple veins. Peduncle solitary, one flower. Leaves lanceolate, smooth, entire. In low wet ground. This is not far removed from Menyanthes') and a species of Vicia ('[perennial], flowers large, purple, a very showy plant. Plentiful under the shade of solitary pines and outskirts of the woods'). Seeing a species of Ribes, but leaving it for the return journey, as it wasn't in flower. The scenery picturesque

(10 May 1826) Wednesday. Having the horses saddled at dawn and leaving at 5am. Eager to continue the journey, eating nothing but a little dry meat and water. At 12pm, crossing a small rapid river, called by his guides Barriere River [Little Pend Oreille River, Washington]: 'as there were no Indians near the place, we had to choose either making a raft or to swim'. Deciding to swim ('all of us good water-men') and unsaddling the horses. One of the horses getting tangled in brushwood and struggling to free itself, but managing in the end. Douglas swimming across twice, carrying first his papers and pen and then his blanket and clothes, holding them above the water with his hands. The guides swimming across the 30-yard wide river three times for the saddles and the provisions. A heavy hail shower. Lighting a fire to keep warm after nearly half an hour in the 40° water. After giving the guides tobacco and warming up, continuing the journey through the 'delightful undulating country'. Crossing a second ridge of mountains at 3pm. Camping at dusk in a densely wooded valley near a small stream. Seeing a small, beautiful species of Phlox, with white, blue and pink flowers

Collecting plants (specimens 56-57), including a species of 'Dioecia?' ('calyx 0 [zero], corolla 3-4 cleft, minute filaments, anthers sessile on the centre of each petal. No female flower. A most singular jointed, leafless, succulent parasite on a small species of pine, belonging to the 2 section of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh], different from any yet in my possession, but I regret that it could not be found in perfection. Like Viscum, it does not survive the death of its supporter. Abundant on all the slender twigs, and particularly so where the pines are in a light, sandy, dry soil. I took it first for a species of lichen, and passed [it over] as such, thinking it already collected') and an unnamed plant belonging to the same genus ('may prove only a variety of the same species')

Killing seven black partridges in crossing the mountain, finding in the ovary of the females 13-17 eggs. Finding a nest with seven eggs, the same size as a pigeon's, a bright 'brownish-dun' colour with red spots: 'blew one egg as a specimen, and cooked the others. Together with the partridges and buffalo meat, I had a comfortable supper'

(11 May 1826) Thursday. Waking up before dawn to heavy rain: 'in the twilight of the morn raised camp, the weather assuming a more inviting appearance'. Reaching the summit of the last range of hills between the two rivers [Columbia River and Spokane River] at 7am: 'one of the most sublime views ever beheld'. The soil becoming more barren towards the banks of the Spokane River, except in small belts in the valleys

Reaching the old establishment at Spokane [Spokane House] at 11am. Being kindly received by Jaco Finlay: 'he regretted exceedingly that he had not a single morsel of food to offer me', his family having lived for the last six weeks on the roots of Phalangium quamash ('called by the natives all over the country camass [Camassia quamash]') and a species of black lichen growing on pines, both prepared by cleaning the root of the small, dead twigs, immersing it in water 'until it becomes perfectly flexible' and then placing it on a heap of heated stones on a layer of grass or leaves, covering it with more grass or leaves and a thin layer of earth, cooking it overnight and compressing it into thin cakes before cooling it down: 'a cake of this sort and a small basin of water was all he had to offer me'

Having ample provisions for 14 days, given to him by John Warren Dease, and the game killed on the journey, Douglas was able to share his provisions with Finlay: '[it] was to him the best meal he had enjoyed for some time'. Douglas intending to have Finlay repair his firelock [of his gun], '[he] being the only person within the space of 800 miles, who could do it, and being an article of the utmost consequence to have soon done, I lost no time in informing him of my request. Unfortunately, he did not speak the English language, and my very partial knowledge of French prevented me from obtaining information which I should have acquired'. Returning at dusk from his walk by the river to find Finlay having repaired the gun: 'for which I presented him with a pound of tobacco, being the only thing I had to give'

(12 May 1826) Friday. Going to the nearby hills after breakfast at 6am with one of Jaco Finlay's sons

Collecting plants (specimens 58-62), including a species in the class Syngenesia ('[perennial], leaves opposite, cordate, serrate, pubescent on the underside, as also the peduncle and stem, upper side scabrous, flowers yellow. In open woods, a handsome plant, a foot to 18 inches high'), Hylosteum ciliatum, var. album [identification unresolved as at Sep 2018] ('of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh]? In rocky, dry soils, appears not to be plentiful. A low, slender shrub, faint white'), Oxytropis or Astragalus missouriensis ('var. alba, of Nuttall [Thomas Nuttall]? Flowers faint white and yellow, carmine tinged with purple. This very interesting small plant is found in great abundance on all dry, gravelly soils and among rocks'), a species of Ribes ('leaves 3-lobed, smooth, serrate, covered on the back with small golden glands. Flowers erect, in a long spike, white, fragrant, wood white. An exceedingly handsome, strong-growing plant, 4 to 10 feet high, with an aromatic scent like the common blackcurrant. In rocky places, plentiful. Make every effort to procure seeds of this highly ornamental plant, as I think it new [added on a separate sheet, dated 20 Jul 1826, 'peduncle very long, erect, fruit prolific, large, round, smooth, black and glossy, juicy. Taste good, exactly like the common blackcurrant, but more acid. This may (should it produce fruit in England) prove worthy of cultivation as a fruit, in addition to its showy, beautiful fragrant blossoms']) and Ribes aureum ('Mr Finlay tells me that Ribes aureum in that neighbourhood produces very fine large, yellow fruit, that he never saw it black or brown') [here the journal includes a list of 4 more plants]

(13 May 1826) Saturday. Deciding to travel towards the Columbia River. Jaco Finlay offering one of his sons to escort Douglas. Enquiring about a local sheep, about the same size as one described by Lewis and Clark [Meriwether Lewis's and William Clark's expedition in 1804-1806 charted the Pacific Northwest], 'but instead of wool, it has short, thick, coarse hair of a brownish-grey, from which it gets the name of mouton gris [bighorn sheep] of the voyageurs [French Canadian fur transporters]', with the horns of the male being dirty white and forming a volute [spiral], weighing up to 18-24lbs, the female horns being bent backwards and curved outwards, about 10 inches to a foot long: 'the flesh is fine. I offered a small compensation to the sons to procure me skins of male and female, at the same time showing them what way they should be prepared'. Being promised one in August from the Rocky Mountains

[The following notes, inserted on separate sheets, paginated 22a-b, dated 20 Jul 1826, include notes relating to a species of Ribes [see above entry on 12 May] and a species of sheep, are addressed to Joseph Sabine. 'Mouton gris of the voyageurs, or grey sheep [bighorn sheep]. Although I have made every possible exertion in my power to put myself in possession of this interesting animal, I am still unable to procure any, and can say little of it, having never had an opportunity of seeing it alive'. The hunters saying this sheep was the one discovered by Lewis and Clark by the Missouri [Missouri River], near the Rocky Mountains, 'which is certainly erroneous', Douglas having seen the animals collected by them at the Philadelphia Museum [Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States of America]. Mouton gris being a distinct, 'and still more interesting animal', in shape and size resembling the common sheep, weighing 150-240lbs, with no wool but short, coarse, thick, brownish-grey hair, with the flanks, hips and thighs dirty white, the male horns large, curving backwards to form a volute: 'frequent instances have been known of the horns so overgrown that they prevented the animal from feeding, the skulls being found with the horns grown in the jaws, which may naturally lead one to suppose the animal died of starvation', the horns a dirty yellowish-white, the tail short and hairy. The female's horns small in comparison, 5-10 inches long, bending slightly backwards, and said to have one or two kids at a time. The flesh said to be fine, the lean meat brown, 'beautifully marbled with fat of a delicate white colour'. The sheep living on the highest mountains, seen in large herds between the Athabasca River [Alberta, Canada] and the Columbia River, in the Rocky Mountains, and between the Peace [Peace River, British Columbia and Alberta] and Smoky Rivers [Smoky River, Alberta]. Fewer sheep living on the Columbia River, near the Lakes [Great Lakes, Canada and United States of America] and on the mountains of McGillivray's River [Kootenay River, British Columbia, Canada and Montana and Idaho, United States of America] and Flathead River [British Columbia and Montana], between the Columbia and Fraser's River [Fraser River, British Columbia], and towards Rio del Norte [?Rio Grande, United States and Canada] in the south. 'Their voice is precisely the same as the sheep, ma-aa-aa'. The sheep being shy, ascending the mountains quickly to hide in the most inaccessible places on the rocks, 'and will, on gaining such situations, composedly stand and steadfastly look down on you, where by an expert rifleman they are oftentimes brought from the height of several hundred feet. Lewis and Clark's sheep is (if I recollect aright) of a dirty white, with hair and wool of coarse texture, and stands under the name of Ovis communis [unidentified] beside the antelope or mouton blanche of the voyageurs [?pronghorn], which is seen on the highest peaks of the mountains'. Added on 27 Jul 1826: 'Purchased a pair of male horns of the above from an Indian, for which I gave him three charges of ammunition and a few crumbs of tobacco. They are small, and in my opinion the animal could not be more than two and a half or three years old - as some of the larger and older ones weigh 18 to 24lbs']

Seeing an Indian burial ground near the old establishment: 'certainly one of the most curious spectacles I have seen in the country. All the property of the dead, consisting of war implements, garments, gambling articles, in fact everything, even the favourite horse of the departed is shot with his bow and arrow, and his skin with the hoofs and skull hung over the remains of [the] deceased owner', with small bundles tied to trees, Douglas being unsure whether for food or as a sacrifice to the gods. The body being placed in the grave in a sitting position, with the knees touching the chin and the arms folded across the chest: 'it is very difficult to get any information on this point, for nothing seems to hurt their feelings more than even mentioning the name of a departed friend'

Leaving Spokane at 8am with one guide. Seeing nothing new on the way, and therefore stopping less frequently. Swimming across the Barriere River [Little Pend Oreille River, Washington] before dusk. Heavy rain all afternoon. Camping on the riverbank under pine trees

(14 May 1826) Sunday. A rainy night, feeling cold with a wet blanket and clothes, despite the shelter and a large fire. Unable to sleep, rising at 2am to dry the blanket and a spare shirt, and placing plants collected in the dry shirt. Boiling his small kettle for tea. Feeling a severe pain between his shoulders, thinking it due to the swimming and wet clothes: 'as I had no medicine to take, I set out a little before 4am on foot, driving the horses before me, thinking that perspiring would remove it, which it partly did'

Arriving at the first encampment at noon. Collecting a species of Ribes (specimen 63) ('leaves equally 3-lobed, serrate, both sides covered with strong, viscous, glandulose hairs, peduncle and petiole equally so, corolla faint green on the outside, yellow inside, in a thick close raceme. Wood white, resembling that of white raspberry, leaves very fragrant, exactly like the scent of Pelargonium odoratissimum. This desirable plant will no doubt prove Ribes viscosissimum of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh]. All the seed of this must be taken great care of, as well as the other species. In rocky places, I have as yet only seen it in this one place' [Added on a loose leaf pasted on to the page, dated 27 Jul 1826: 'fruit long, oblong, hairy, hairs viscid, skin thin, dry and divested of fleshy substance. Seeds very prolific, small, taste musty and very disagreeable, causes vomiting. Will never be of any use as a fruit, but a great addition to the ornamental garden'])

Reaching Kettle Falls in the evening: 'although I have not obtained a great number of plants, yet with the repairing of my gun and the few plants collected, I must say I felt satisfied'

(15-16 May 1826) Monday and Tuesday. The pain between his shoulders and his headache forcing Douglas to remain in bed: 'as I was feverish, and likely to become worse, I took some salts and then a few grains of Dover's powder [a mixture of ipecacuanha, opium and potassium sulphate, used to treat fever and other ailments], which relieved me greatly'. Rain and thunder

(17 May 1826) Wednesday. Rain. Turning specimens and changing specimen papers. The weather cold and raw, with a northerly wind

(18 May 1826) Thursday. Collecting plants at Kettle Falls (specimens 63-67 [includes some apparent overlap with previous specimen numbers]), including a species of 'Juniperus?' ('leaves opposite, glaucous on the upper side. This fine plant, of which I could only find the female, is seen on rocky grounds near springs. 3 to 4 feet high, somewhat procumbent, however I am inclined to think it attains a larger size. Rare'), a species of Geum ('[perennial], flowers faint yellow, leaves radical, pinnate, ciliate, stem and peduncle hairy. A fine small plant, 12 to 30 inches high. Plentiful on the plains, on the banks of rivers, and under the shade of pines'), a species of Arabis ('[annual], on moist mountain rocks and banks of rivers, flowers white'), a species of Ranunculus ([perennial], flowers yellow, abundant in all low moist meadows') and a species of Juncus ('[perennial], in the like places, abundant')

(19 May 1826) Friday. Going to a nearby hill at dawn, returning at dusk. Collecting plants (specimens 64-68 [includes some apparent overlap with previous specimen numbers]), including several species of Ribes, a species of Viola ('[perennial], leaves smooth, cordate, round and somewhat reniform. Flowers small, yellow, with dark purple veins. Under the shade of pines, in rich vegetable soil'), a species of Prunus ('flowers white, in a cluster, leaves lanceolate, obtuse, smooth, minutely serrate. Fragrant, with a bitter astringent taste. Abundant on rocky grounds, near river and mountain springs, 6 to 12 feet high [Added on a loose leaf pasted onto the page, dated 15 Jul: 'fruit small, scarlet, astringent, and is in every point an insipid fruit']), Saxifraga nivalis ('on the summit of the high mountains, plentiful') and another species of Saxifraga ('[perennial], small, 4 to 8 inches high, flowers white')

(20 May 1826) Saturday. Clear, warm and pleasant, with a southerly wind. Going 20 miles up the south side of the river and returning at dusk. Collecting plants (specimens 69-70), including a plant in the class and order of Pentandria, Monogynia, related to Myosotis ('[perennial], anthers short, surrounding the orifice. Flowers blue, radical leaves linear-oblong, cauline linear, alternate, sessile, or somewhat amplexicaul, leaves and stem hirsute. A foot to 2 1/2 high, on dry gravelly soils') and a species of Anemone ('[perennial], radical leaves digitate, upper surface smooth, under (as well as the stalk) covered with a soft thick pubescence. Petiole of the floral leaves short, one to three flowered, white. Abundant in the same places as the preceding plant')

(21 May 1826) Sunday. Too tired to go out from all the walking on the previous days. Tying up a bundle of dried plants and making a small box to shelter them against damp and insects. A cloudy morning and a warm afternoon

(22 May 1826) Monday. Crossing the Columbia River to the Dease River [Kettle River, Washington and British Columbia], one of its northern branches. Ascending the river for 10 miles in a canoe 'with two Indians and a Mr Kittson [William Kittson, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader], who was going to examine it, being never entered before by Europeans'. Walking along the banks, with the rest of the party in the canoe, but the stream being too strong to proceed. The river supposedly running from the Rocky Mountains

Collecting plants (specimens 71-72), including a Penstemon in flower, a plant in the class and order Didynamia, Angiospermia ('calyx 5-leaved, bibracteate, corolla bilabiate, lower plaited and bearded. Bark slightly fringed, anthers lanuginous, sterile filament shorter, 4 to 7 hairs on the upper side near the middle. Seeds angular, stem fruticose, reclining. Leaves opposite, sessile, lanceolate, smooth, slightly denticulate, floral, broader and more obtuse, somewhat pubescent. Upper part of the stem, peduncle and calyx equally so. This plant common in some points to Penstemon frutescens [Pennellianthus frutescens], if it is, the anthers and sterile filament must have been overlooked, seeds being not membraneously margined makes it differ from the genus, it may be an anomaly. Abundant on rocky and gravelly soils on the upper parts of the Columbia and its branches') and a species of 'Polemonium?' ('[perennial], calyx 5-cleft, corolla partially rotate, tube short, closed at the base with valves. Stigma trifid, cap not in perfection, leaves pinnate, slightly pubescent. Calyx somewhat glutinous. Flowers bright blue. A delicate little plant, 10 to 20 inches high. On rocky situations and light soils, in great abundance on the banks of this river, the only place it has come under my notice')

(23 May 1826) Tuesday. Collecting plants (specimens 73-75), including a species of Umbellifera ('[perennial], root large, fusiform, tastes somewhat like a parsnip. Radical leaves entire (sinuated when in rich damp soils), lanceolate, smooth, 3-nerved, floral pinnate, amplexicaul, flowers sulphur-yellow colour. Plentiful in all low swampy grounds. The roots are gathered by the natives and boiled or roasted as an article of food (taste insipid), called by them missouri'), another species of Umbellifera ('[perennial], leaves ternate, cordate, serrate, smooth, flowers yellow. Like the former, found on low wet ground and margin of mountain springs'), a species of Heuchera ('[perennial], scape pilous, leaves lobed, acute, upper side smooth, under nerved and slightly pubescent, dentate and mucronate. Flowers white, this does not differ much from Heuchera caulescens [identification unresolved as at Sep 2018] of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh], may probably prove to be it. Abundant on the subalpine hills in rocky places, usually in partially shady spots. A fine plant), Collomia linearis ('of Nuttall [Thomas Nuttall], on the channel of the Columbia [Columbia River] and its creeks, in sandy soils, less luxuriant in the lower country'), a species of Malvaceae ('in open woods, not yet in blossom'), a small species of Artemisia ('in rocky places, with pinnate, revolute leaves, woolly underneath) and a species of Helonias ('leaves entire, smooth, dies down to the ground in the winter'). A pleasant day with showers of rain

(24 May 1826) Wednesday. Showery, with a south-westerly wind. Turning plants and taking some out of the press. Collecting plants (specimens 76-82), including a species of Crataegus ('the only one of the genus I have seen in the interior, on the edges of rivers and creeks, a low-spreading shrub'), a species of Allium ('[perennial], flowers purple, on the banks of rivers. This plant is the only vegetable that I have to use in my food, I get it generally stewed down in a little dried buffalo meat or game'), two species of Populus and a species of Ribes ('flowers small, green, leaves round, lobed, serrate, smooth, plentiful in rocky situations') [here the journal includes a list of 2 more plants]

(25 May 1826) Thursday. A warm and pleasant day. Walking along the river. Killing swallows, 'but all too much destroyed by the shot to preserve'. The male bird with white on the belly and on the side of the head, with green back and upper part of head, bright purple rump and points of tail and wings light brown, the female similar but of fainter hue, about the size of an English wren. The second kind with a light brown or amber belly, dark glossy purple back and brown wings, with a long tail. Killing a large male black partridge, intending to skin it the following morning 'to complete two pairs of that fine species'

Collecting plants (specimens 83-85), including a species belonging in the order Pentandria, Monogynia, related to Echium ('calyx 5 leaves, linear, corolla 5-cleft, obtuse, filaments longer than the corolla, hairy, style bifid, purple-blue. Leaves alternate, linear, revolute, hirsute, stem somewhat less hirsute than the leaves. [Annual], a fine plant, 8 inches to 18 high, rarely branching. On light hilly soils, abundant'), a species of Collomia ('[annual], stem round, smooth. Lower leaves opposite, sessile, linear, floral leaves and upper part of the stem slightly pubescent, petals toothed. A more straggling plant than linearis [Collomia linearis], less viscid. Flowers large, faint pink colour. Found in conjunction with it in all sandy soils on the banks of rivers') and a species of Myosotis ('[perennial], leaves alternate, sessile, linear, hirsute, stem equally so. Only one plant I could find for the present. Flowers small, white')

(26 May 1826) Friday. Going to the nearby hills at dawn. A warm day, temperature 86° at noon: 'I felt so much fatigued and overpowered with the heat that I sat down under the shade of Thuja occidentalis in a valley near a small spring, where I fell asleep and did not wake till 4pm'. Being tempted to stay overnight, being 20 miles away from his lodgings, but returning, not wanting to worry John Warren Dease. The journey back taking six hours over the rugged and mountainous terrain. Discovering that Dease had intended to send 'some Indians' to look for him in the morning: 'on informing him of my delay, he laughed heartily'

Killing a female curlew and a small male pheasant, 'the latter too much destroyed for preserving'. Collecting plants (specimen 86), including a species belonging in the order Pentandria, Monogynia ('calyx 5-partite, acute, corolla 5-partite, obtuse. Leaves vertillicate, linear. A slender [annual] plant, 3 to 9 inches high, on gravelly soils, rare'). Seeing Pinus balsamea [Abies balsamea] on the mountains

(27-28 May 1826) Saturday-Sunday. Cold, raw and unpleasant weather with high winds, hail and rain showers. Walking a short distance up the south bank of the Columbia River, but not finding anything new. Seeing several species of Rubus, one ('species 109 of 1825') in flower, with smaller shrubs than lower in the country. Collecting better specimens of Saxifraga than previously

(29-31 May 1826) Monday-Wednesday. Collecting plants (specimens 87-95), including a species of Prunus ('flowers white, in a long raceme. Fragrant, resembling Crataegus. Leaves ovate, smooth, serrate. A small tree, and in dry light soils a low shrub, frequenting rocky situations on the subalpine hills. Plentiful'), a species of Gnaphalium ('[perennial], flowers small, white, in a corymb. Leaves alternate, linear-lanceolate. A low plant, 6 inches to 18 high. On all hilly, light gravelly soils'), a species of Gramineae ('[perennial], on low dry soil'), a species of Carex ('on low damp soils, a fine specimen, plentiful') and a species of Rubus ('leaves 3-lobed, serrate. Shoots hispid. Flowers small, white. On rocks and dry gravelly soils near rivers') [here the journal includes a list of 4 more plants]

(1 Jun 1826) Thursday. Walking southwards to the hills. A warm and pleasant day. Finding two new plants, a plant in the class and order Tetrandria, Monogynia ('calyx 4-partite, linear. Petals 4, acute, faint blue. Leaves opposite, sessile, linear. A low perennial plant, a foot to 18 inches. Plentiful on the meadows') and a perennial species in the class Syngenesia ('in fissures of rocks. Leaves pinnate. Flowers brownish-yellow. Has a strong scent like mint. This plant I saw some days ago, but not in blossom')

(2-4 Jun 1826) Friday to Sunday. Packing three bundles of dried plants ('being all that are in a state fit to be sent to the coast'). Shooting mountain or rock grouse, curlews and a small female pheasant. Changing specimen papers. Preparing for a journey to the plains. Writing a letter to his brother. Intending to leave by boat at dawn

(5 Jun 1826) Waking up at 2.30am. Leaving his belongings in the care of John Warren Dease. Leaving the 'wild, romantic scenery' of Kettle Falls with William Kittson at 5am after breakfast. Riding for two miles and embarking on the boats at 7am. The river swollen by melting snow, 12-14 feet deep and 600 yards wide: 'on getting into the current, the boats passed along like an arrow from the bow'

Reaching Thomson's Rapids after half an hour. The guide, Mr Pierre L'Etang [boatman and hunter in Hudson's Bay Company] thinking the water was suitable for 'jumping the rapid, as he termed it', but Douglas refusing to stay in the boat to cross the rapids: 'although I am no coward in the water, and have stood unmoved, indeed with pleasure, at the agitation of the ocean raging in the greatest pitch, yet to descend such a place I can never do unless necessity calls for it'. Admiring the dexterity of the Canadian boatmen, passing through rapids, whirlpools, and narrow channels: 'in such places, where you think the next moment you are to be dashed to pieces against the steep rocks, they approach and pass with an indescribable coolness, leaving it behind, cheering themselves with an exulting boat-song'

Reaching the junction of the Spokane River, 90 miles away from Kettle Falls, at 3.20pm. Collecting plants around the place where they camped in April. Camping at dusk opposite the Cinqpoil River [Sanpoil River, Washington], 40 miles down the river: 'I was much obliged by Mr K. [William Kittson] kindly putting to shore for anything that attracted my attention'

(6 Jun 1826) Tuesday. Embarking on the boat before 3am. Passing Little Dalles [Columbia River, Washington] at 11am. Collecting plants. Arriving at the Okanagan establishment [Fort Okanogan] at 1pm. Meeting his 'old friend' John Work, Mr William Conolly [William Connolly, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader], Mr P.C. Pambrun [Pierre-Chrysologue Pambrun, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] and James Douglas [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader], with a party of men from Western Caledonia [New Caledonia, Hudson's Bay Company trading district, British Columbia]. Meeting Mr Francis Ermatinger [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] from Thompson's River [Thompson's River Post, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Kamloops, British Columbia], brother of his guide in the spring [Edward Ermatinger]: 'I shall ever feel no small degree of pleasure on thinking of the kindness I had from these people, which is naturally doubly esteemed in this distant, uninhabited country. I must mention in particular the genuine and unaffected friendliness of Mr Connolly, who instantly begged that I would consider myself as an old acquaintance'

Work preserving two grouse for Douglas ('both very well done'), with some eggs. Having to leave them with Ermatinger until the autumn, as he had no time to make a box for them, being busy collecting and arranging plants

[Inserted on a loose sheet, dated 10 Jun and 21 Aug: the birds abundant between October and April, 'easily killed by the Indians with the bow' on the riverbanks, and seen in large flocks at the Priest's Rapids [Priest Rapids]. Being told they can be found also around Lewis and Clark's River [Lewis and Clark River], Snake River [Wyoming, Idaho, Oregon and Washington, United States of America] and Kooskooskee River [Clearwater River, Idaho, United States of America], being sensitive to the levels of humidity of the coast and to the cold of the mountains. Seeing two large flocks near the Grand Coulee [Washington], with possibly 10-12 broods in each flock, altogether 100-120 birds. Being able to go within 20 yards of them. The large grouse not rare, although at the present season retiring to dry elevated grounds from the riverbanks to breed. The male in particular being 'a very noble bird', two feet to 34 inches in length, weighing 5-8lbs, with 'two remarkable spots destitute of plumage' on their chests. The flesh dry, white and tender, with 'perhaps as little nutriment as any known animal substance'. The female smaller, its plumage more uniform. The birds not being shy, not necessarily flying away even when shot at. Their flight 'swift but steady', producing an initial burring sound with their wings, flapping and then floating: 'so unwieldy do they appear at first that they look as if wounded'. Their nests appearing 'very careless', with a few straws of dead grass in the sand under the branches of Tigarea tridentata [Purshia tridentata] or Artemisia, the birds feeding on the buds and leaves, hatching 10-17 small eggs, similar to those of the common English partridge, with a few small, brownish spots. 'A river is said to exist called by the American hunters Prairie Hen River [Green River, Wyoming, Colorado and Utah, United States of America], thought to fall into Rio del Norte [?Rio Grande, Colorado, New Mexico and Texas, United States of America, and Mexico] in the Spanish possessions. If this is the same bird, so called by Lewis and Clarke [Meriwether Lewis and William Clark], the range of country it inhabits must be very great']

Collecting more plants around the Okanagan River [Washington]

(7 Jun 1826) Wednesday. Leaving for Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces] at 8am with a 'brigade of 5 boats'. Intending to stay there for six or eight weeks. Passing the 'Stony Islands', a rugged and dangerous spot. Camping at 4pm, two of the boats having been broken: 'this circumstance gave me a few hours among the rocks, which I spent to great advantage'. Killing a three-foot long rattlesnake. Temperature 92° in the shade at noon. Lightning without thunder or rain during the night

(8 Jun 1826) Thursday. Continuing the journey at dawn. Breakfasting on 'very fine fresh salmon and buffalo tongue' at the Priest Rapids. William Connolly eager to reach their destination quickly. Writing to Joseph Sabine, but not being able to finish the letter due to heavy rain. Being received at Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces] by Samuel Black. Settling on the floor of the 'Indian Hall', having had little sleep during the journey, but being awakened by 'an indescribable herd of fleas'. Attempting to sleep out in the bushes, but being disturbed by ants. Finishing the letter to Sabine 'as soon as I could see to make a pen'

(9 Jun 1826) Copying in to the body of the journal a letter to Joseph Sabine, written at the junction of Lewis and Clark's River [Lewis and Clark River] and the Columbia River:

He is writing due to the unexpected opportunity of communicating with the coast; he is sending about a 100 new specimens, including six species of Ribes, with two new species and Ribes viscosissimum of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh] ('his description will require some amendment'); he last wrote from the junction of the Spokane River on 12 Apr, and left shortly afterwards for Kettle Falls, 90 miles up the river, staying there until 5 Jun; he travelled in the region collecting plants, although he did not manage to collect as many as he wished, but did find many new and not very well known species; he will travel to a ridge of snowy mountains around 25 Jun, a journey of 150 miles; afterwards he will travel up Lewis and Clark's River to the forks for 10-12 days and return overland to Kettle Falls; then he will join John Work on his trading excursion near the Rocky Mountains, and afterwards retrace his steps, expecting to reach the ocean around November; carrying everything he collects is difficult, and he often has to restrict his collecting; he has procured 'very handsome' species of rock grouse, possibly a new species, usually only found in the mountains; he has collected curlews with 'singular habits', roosting on trees, and a small female pheasant, all packed in a box with three bundles of plants; he is too busy to send a copy of his journal ('a circumstance I regret exceedingly'); he has five 'splendid' species of Penstemon, only one of which, Penstemon coeruleus [identification unresolved as at Sep 2018] having been previously described by Nuttall [Thomas Nuttall], Tigarea tridentata [Purshia tridentata], several species of Rubus, Lupinus and two species of Prunus; he is in a good location for fruit and hopes to collect some; he will not be able to write again, as he will not reach the coast before the ship sails to England; he is in excellent health and hopes to hear from Sabine

Writing to John McLoughlin and all his 'kind friends' at Fort Vancouver about sending his belongings on the ship, John Work promising to ensure the box and other items would land safely. William Connolly giving Douglas 12 feet of tobacco ('better than 2lb') for his journey: 'being as it were the currency of the country, and particularly scarce, I esteemed it invaluable, as it will enable to have guides and other services performed more willingly'. Changing specimen papers

Copying notes on plants from his notebook (specimens 99-120), including a species of Phlox ('stem shrubby, pubescent. Leaves opposite, revolute, the base dilated, smooth. Calyx glaucous. Flowers white and rose colour, very large and fragrant. In partially shady woods at the junction of Spokane River. This may only prove a variety of Phlox speciosa, but is nevertheless a desirable plant, much stronger, larger flower, and more profuse'), a species of Allium ('[perennial], leaves plain. Flowers faint purple and white. A low plant, 6 to 10 inches high. Abundant on a low sandy point at the junction of the Spokane River'), Linum lewisii ('[perennial], on all dry elevated open places plentiful, and individual plants under the shade of solitary pines'), a species of Salvia ('shrubby, leaves obovate. Petioles short, soft, or somewhat fleshy (under the microscope thickly covered with minute yellow glands). Flowers verticillate, large, bright blue, surrounded by orbicularciliated bracteae. A splendid shrub, with a powerful and not disagreeable scent. 2 to 4 feet high. Plentiful on all hilly, rocky situations. This would be a most valuable addition' and a species of Santolina ('[perennial], leaves amplexicaul, cordate-acute, dentate, pubescent, likewise the stem, calyx more so. Flowers bright blue and purple, beard of the sterile filament brown. Plentiful on rocks near Okanagan [Washington, United States of America]. A foot to 18 inches high') [here the journal includes a list of 16 more plants]

Temperature 63°-90° in the shade. Going to bed early, having had little sleep for the last five nights. Shortly after dusk, 'an Indian' bringing letters and newspapers from Fort Vancouver, with news of the arrival of a ship in the river: 'I grasped the parcel eagerly, and tore it open', finding a letter from Mr Goode [Thomas Goode, clerk at the Horticultural Society of London] and Mr William Booth [William Beattie Booth, garden clerk at the the Horticultural Society garden at Chiswick, London], with a note from John McLoughlin saying he had retained the letters from people from the Society, 'not deeming it prudent to risk them by the Indian': 'never in my life did I feel in such a state: an uneasy, melancholy, but pleasing sensation stole on my mind, with an inordinate longing for the remaining part, and although I did not hear directly from my friends, I now for once in my life enjoy and relish the luxury of hearing from England'. Receiving letters from his friends on the coast, with wishes that his work was going well. Being delighted to receive letters the same day he had been writing to England, the post being so infrequent

(10 Jun 1826) Saturday. A warm night, and cloudy morning. Reading the letters until after midnight, before lying down to sleep on his mat. Feeling unwell due to not having slept and not wanting to exert himself in the heat of the day. Mending his shoes

Collecting plants along the river (specimens 121-123), including a species of Lupinus ('[annual], small, hairy. Flowers blue and white. Legume 2-seeded. 4 to 8 inches high. On the open barren plains. This is no doubt Lupinus pusillus of Nuttall [Thomas Nuttall]'), a plant in the class Diadelphia ('[perennial], legume double-curved, many-seeded, seeds small. Leaves pinnate, ovate, obtuse. Stem and leaves hispid. Flowers purple and white. A most beautiful low-spreading plant, 6 inches to a foot high. Plentiful on dry gravelly soils') and 'Melilotus?' ('[perennial], flowers white and blue. This plant I saw last year near the Great Falls [Celilo Falls] on Columbia River, but in an imperfect state. Abundant over all the plains')

(11 Jun 1826) Sunday. Heavy rain during the night. A warm and clear day. Arranging plants

(12 Jun 1826) Monday. Warm. Collecting plants (specimens 124-126), comprising a plant in the class Polydelphia ['[annual], calyx 5-leaved, lanceolate. Petals obtuse, 5. Stem white, smooth. Leaves amplexicaul, very rough. Capsule sessile, long, 1-celled. Seeds small and numerous. Flowers yellow (if I recollect, a magnificent plant of the same genus I found at the Great Falls [Celilo Falls] last year in blossom, but could obtain no perfect seeds of it). The present is seen in little patches among Tigarea [Purshia] and some species of Artemisia on the dry sandy plain. Not very abundant'), a plant in the class and order Hexandria, Monogynia ('[annual], calyx 4-partite. Corolla 4 petals, petals lanceolate-obtuse, 2 small (narrower). Leaves digitate, glaucous. Leaflet lanceolate, 3-5. Flowers terminal stamens exerted, flowers yellow. A plant 1 foot to 2 1/2 high, frequenting dry soils. Not unhandsome, but has a very foetid burned-like scent. Found abundance of Clarkia pulchella on the rising ground and laid in a few specimens'] and a species of Crucifera ('[annual], this plant may prove only a variety of No 114, as there appears to be little difference, except the present has purple flowers and the leaves narrower and more sinuated, which situation may affect. On dry rocks. A showy plant, flowering in a thick, close spike. 4 to 10 feet high'), Lupinus villosus ('variable flowers, sometimes pale purple, approaching to dingy yellow') and seeds of Phlox speciosa ('this seems not to produce seeds in abundance, probably the sudden intensity of the summer heat is too great')

(13-14 Jun 1826) Tuesday and Wednesday. Windy and rainy during the night: 'I had the greater part of my paper and all my clothing wet, not a dry stitch to put on'. Drying the papers in the sun and arranging plants

Collecting plants (specimens 127-143), including a plant in the class and order Pentandria, Monogynia ('[perennial], a 2nd species of the genus [of specimen] 115, also very fragrant during the night. Plant glaucous. Stem smooth, white, purple at the joints, brittle and somewhat succulent. Leaves ovate-obtuse, entire. Root creeping and produces shoots like the genus Salix and Populus when exposed above ground. A low, but wide-spreading plant. Plentiful on the plains, near the junction of Lewis and Clark's River [Lewis and Clark River] and the Columbia River. Would be a valuable addition to the garden. This I think is the plant I saw last year at the falls, and had not time to look at at the moment (that found this year at the Stony Island a second species'), a species of Oenothera ('[annual], leaves small, glabrous, sessile, alternate, linear. Capsule long, slender, twisted. Flowers faint rose colour. A minute plant, never exceeding 6 or 8 inches high. On the plains, abundant in dry sandy soils'), a species of Eriogonum ('[perennial], leaves linear-lanceolate, villous. Flowers white. Abundant on the plains'), a species of Clematis ('flowers white. On shady places, among rocks. Not plentiful') and a species of Orobanche ('[annual] (not a parasite). Abundant on the dry sand-scorched plains') [here the journal includes a list of 11 more plants]

No salmon caught for three days, being unable to take the canoe out to fish due to high south-westerly winds. Killing three small Arctomys, two males and one female, nine inches long with 1 1/4 inch tail, the back light grey with white spots, the sides, legs and neck whitish, nose and around the anus light brown, eyes blue and purple-black. Living in sand burrows under brushwood, feeding on the leaves and fruit of Tigarea tridentata [Purshia tridentata] and the leaves of Artemisia. 'Having nothing to eat, they, with some boiled horseflesh, formed my supper. I found the former rancid, or rather a musty taste, probably from the bitter strong-scented plants on which it feeds. Called by the Wallawallah [Walla Walla] and Kyuuse [Cayuse] Indians limia'

(15 Jun 1826) Thursday. Windy and showery. Setting off on foot at 4am to the other side of the river. Stopping for a breakfast of the remains of the previous night's supper. Not being able to find any water: 'my eyes began to trouble me much, the wind blowing the sand, and the sun's reflection from it is of great detriment to me'. Returning fatigued at 4pm, with badly inflamed and painful eyes

Collecting seeds and plants (specimens 144-146), including Phlox speciosa, a species of Myosotis ('[perennial], stem hirsute, calyx more so. Leaves sessile, lanceolate, entire, smooth above, slightly silky below. Flowers white, with 5 yellow prominent nectaries surrounding the orifice. A fine, low plant, 8 to 14 inches high. On the banks of Columbia River, a few miles below the junction of Lewis and Clark's River [Lewis and Clark River]. Rare'), a species in the class Syngenesia ('[perennial], smooth-branching and twiggy. Leaves long, sessile, linear, entire, smooth. Flowers fine pink colour. Root and branches yield a viscid, milky, bitter juice. A foot to 18 inches high. On the banks of rivers, not very plentiful') and Opuntia ferox [identification unresolved as at Sep 2018] ('abundant on all dry rocky and sandy soils and many times gives me great trouble picking the spines from my feet. Flowers yellow. Style and stigma purple, filament and anther yellow')

(16 Jun 1826) Friday. A more moderate wind, warm and pleasant. Preparing for a journey southward to the Blue Mountains [Oregon and Washington] and Grande Ronde [Grand Ronde, Oregon], 140 miles away. Sending a message to the Indian camp for his guide to be ready at dawn the following day

Rats eating his seeds and dried plants during the night and stealing his razor and soap-brush: 'one, as he was in the act of depriving me of my inkstand, which I had just been using before I lay down and was lying close to my pillow, I lifted my gun (which is my night companion as well as day, and lies generally alongside of me, the muzzle to my feet) and gave him the contents'. Finding the rat a strange species, 10 inches long with a seven-inch tail, white hairy belly and light brown back, with the ends of the hairs darker, large ears, long black whiskers and long pointed nose. Destroying the skin with large shot. Rising at dawn to wait for another one to appear to shoot it with lighter shot. Being told the rats were abundant in the Rocky Mountains, in particular to the north of the Peace [Peace River] and McKenzie Rivers [Mackenzie River, Yukon and Northwest Territories], causing much damage in the winter

Collecting plants (specimens 147-148), including a species in the class Syngenesia ('[perennial], leaves opposite, ovate, 3-nerved, smooth above, slightly pubescent under. Flowers sessile, yellow, sweet-scented. Calyx 5-leaved. A singular plant, 8 to 19 inches. Abundant on the plains, in light dry sandy soils') and a plant in the class Diadelphia ('[perennial], stem smooth. Leaves pinnate, 9-15, smooth, ovate-lanceolate. Flowers white. Peduncle pubescent. Root creeping. A foot to 1 1/2 high. On gravelly banks, not plentiful')

(17 Jun 1826) Saturday. The guide not arriving until 8am, and Douglas being unsure of whether he would arrive, the horses not brought in from the meadow or his provisions set up. Taking 'considerable time' to explain the guide his plans, Samuel Black translating Douglas's explanations to his Canadian interpreter, who in turn translated it in the Kyuuse [Cayuse] language to the guide: 'as a proof of the fickle disposition and keenness of bargain-making in these people, he made without delay strict inquiry what he should get for his trouble. This being soon settled, then came the smaller list of present wants, beginning, as his family had been starving for the last two months, and he going just at the commencement of the salmon season, by asking Mr Black to allow them something to eat'. The guides' other requests including new shoes, leather to replace his worn leggings, a scalping knife, a little tobacco and a strip of coarse red cloth for a cap. The negotiations taking two hours to complete over a stone pipe. Black offering to send a 12-year old boy, the son of the interpreter, fluent in the [Cayuse] language and speaking a little French, to accompany Douglas and the guide

Being provided with three 'excellent' horses for carrying his papers, blanket and provisions, giving one to each of his companions. Preferring to walk whenever possible, placing more luggage on his horse. Black giving Douglas a supply of pemmican, biscuits, sugar and tea for 10 days, with dried salmon for the guides: 'with what we would kill, I might consider myself comfortable'

Setting off at midday towards the south-east following the Wallawallah River [Walla Walla River, Washington]. Stopping to collect plants on the way. Camping on the edge of a small spring among birch trees, water being scarce on the plains

(18 Jun 1826) Sunday. Being kept awake during the night by mosquitoes and rain: 'I had the horses brought in, and started at 5, and continued my journey'. A cool morning. Feeling relieved the sand was not being blown by the wind. The country to the north comprising a plain of sand and gravel, without any trees apart from a few low birch and willows by springs and rivulets. On the south side, the ground undulating, with some decomposed veins of brown granite and volcanic rock visible. Passing the southern branch of the Walla Walla River at 8am. Seeing plenty of Ribes aureum on the steep gravel and lime shores, its fruits black or yellow and 'of exquisite flavour', with numerous racemes and berries about the size of a currant. The fruit seemingly growing only in light, gravelly soil, not in rich, damp soil

The air cooling on approaching the mountains. Camping at the foot of the mountains at 5pm. Making tea and eating a 'comfortable supper' of dried salmon, the first meal of the day. Seeing many interesting plants around the encampment, but deciding to leave them for the return journey. Leaving some tea in the kettle to save time in the morning

(19 Jun 1826) Monday. Setting off on foot after breakfast at sunrise, the guides taking the horses. Ascending gradually towards the east for about 15 miles. The mountain becoming more rugged and difficult to climb. Camping half way up the mountain in the afternoon, after 35-40 miles' walk. The woods similar to other mountains. Seeing two species of Ribes, including Ribes viscosissimum and a species of Lonicera or Xylosteon, collected by the Spokane River six weeks previously

(20 Jun 1826) Tuesday. Setting off at dawn to reach the summit: 'the further I went, the more difficult I found my undertaking'. Stopping at midday to collect plants. Seeing the first snow. Continuing after eating 'a little dried salmon and a mouthful of water from a chilly crystal spring'. Finding the guides and the horses at 4pm about 1,500 feet below the summit, having been stopped by 'deep wreaths of eternal snow'. Feeling disappointed, having hoped to reach the low alluvial grounds on the other side. Camping under a projecting rock. The horses being hobbled. 'As it appeared to me my guide seemed somewhat alarmed, I thought it prudent to give him a little time to cool or change his opinion'

Setting off alone with a gun and some paper for the summit. Walking with difficulty on the soft snow without snowshoes, but the hard frosted snow closer to the summit easier to walk on: 'I without the least difficulty placed my foot on the highest peak of those untrodden regions, where never European was before me'. Estimating the height as 7,000-7,500 feet, or 9,000 feet above the sea. Temperature at 5pm 26°, temperature the previous day at the foot of the mountain 92°. Admiring the view. After 45 minutes, the upper part of the mountain suddenly enveloped in dense black cloud, followed by a storm with thunder, lightning, hail and wind: 'I never beheld anything that could equal the lightning'. Returning the camp below, not wishing to spend the night on the summit

Reaching the camp at 8pm, at twilight, the storm still raging. Tying the alarmed horses to trees. Being unable to light a fire, having only dried salmon to eat. Stripping off his wet clothes and sleeping in his rolled up blanket, not having any spare clothes. Waking up cold at midnight, with his knees refusing to work: 'I scoured them well with a rough towel, and as the storm was over, made a cheering fire. I could not resist the temptation of making a little tea, which I found restored me greatly'. Temperature 26°. Hanging his clothes up to dry. Sleeping until 3am

(21 Jun 1826) Wednesday. Finding 'the spirits of my guide and interpreter greatly damped', and both afraid to continue. Still wishing to reach the other side of the mountain, but 'as I had every reason to suppose, the young rascally boy told the Indian the reverse of what I wished him to do'. His guide eventually telling him he might be able to reach the other side by crossing the Utalla River [Umatilla River, Oregon] by swimming across or by raft, 'and as his nation was at war with the Snake tribe [Northern Paiute, Bannock and Shoshone], and we going on the confines of their lands, in all likelihood they would steal our horses and perhaps kill us. As it would be very improper to force him to go with me, and impossible for me to go alone, I was reluctantly obliged for the present to give up the idea of crossing'. Collecting plants. Camping half-way between the previous encampments

(22-24 Jun 1826) Thursday-Saturday. Continuing to collect plants in different locations, until he had collected 'all that appeared peculiar to that district'. Reaching the Columbia River on Saturday, after eight days' journey, 'during which I saw no human, except my guides. I found the boy had told the Indian not to go with me, as it was dangerous'. Being determined to make another similar excursion in a different direction after drying the plants collected

(25 Jun 1826) Sunday. Changing specimen papers, putting some of the newly collected plants under the presser. Arranging the seeds that had been drying for the last 10 days

Copying into this journal information from his notebook about plants collected (specimens 149-180), including a species of Paeonia ('[perennial], root large and jointed, partly creeping. Stem glaucous, red. Leaves alternate, compoundly lobed, smooth and glaucous. Flowers small, petals same length as the stamens, centre and the outside dark purple, on the edge and inside bright yellow. A low plant, 6 inches to a foot high. In great abundance, in clumps, among low bushes on the sunny side of the mountains, flowering in perfection on the confines of perpetual snow, lower down it is seen in feeble enervated plants, and in the more temperate regions completely disappears. This valuable addition will, I trust, be an acquisition to the garden. If in my power, seeds of it must be had'), a species of Salix ('male. A low shrub, on the hills. Rare. I regret the female of this species could not be found'), a species of Pedicularis ('[annual], flowers white. A low plant, on moist ground on the summit of the hills'), a species of Mitella ('[perennial], will probably prove diphylla [Mitella diphylla]. In the close, shady pine-woods, in rich decayed vegetable soils') and a species of Anemone ('flowers white. A low plant. On the upland and mountain woods, on dead wood, and all shady soils. Abundant. Perhaps Anemone nemorosa') [here the journal includes a list of 26 more plants]

(26 Jun 1826) Monday. Wishing to make another excursion to the mountains, being somewhat disappointed with the previous trip. The guide refusing to go, saying the previous trip had weakened him too much: 'he was certainly a little broken down, but I saw nothing that would seriously injure him'. The guide escaping Douglas's 'corporal chastisement to teach him'. Learning that Young Wasp, the interpreter's son, had told the guide Douglas was a 'great medicine-man, which is always understood as a necromancer, or being possessed of or conversant with evil spirits', the guide fearing Douglas would turn him into a grizzly bear, 'to run and live in the mountains, and he should never see his wife again, which of course acted powerfully on him. The boy was paid by his father according to the merit of his services'

Samuel Black giving Douglas another guide. Being pleased with his new guide: 'he was no smoker, and at the time such a knave that no one would dare to steal from him, and it is worthy of notice that there has hardly ever been an instance of dishonesty known when they saw that trust was placed in them by depositing property in their hands'. Setting off along the north bank of the Walla Walla River to the northern branch of the river. Finding few new plants during the two-day journey to the mountains. The weather dry and hot, temperatures ranging from 98° to 31° on the mountains

(28-29 Jun 1826) Wednesday and Thursday. Reaching snow on the mountains on Wednesday evening. Camping at dusk. Not seeing many new plants, continuing his journey, wishing to have a few days for collecting and drying seeds on the plains before the arrival of the people from the coast. Reaching the Columbia River on Saturday morning, tired and in pain from a 'violent inflammation of the eyes', and unable to read or write

Collecting plants (specimens 175-194 [includes some apparent overlap with previous specimen numbers]), including a species of Allium ('[perennial], flowers white. A small low plant, 4 to 5 inches high. On the mountains near the snow. Plentiful'), a species of Chenopodium ('[perennial], flowers whitish-yellow. Leaves nearly sessile, slightly dentate, maculate, spots red. Near Indian villages. Common'), a species of Geum ('[perennial], flowers small, yellow. On the mountains. Abundant'), a species of Delphinium ('[perennial], leaves smooth, multipartite. Flowers bright azure-blue, on a long spike. Margins of rivers and lakes, in deep alluvial soils') and a species of Rhus ('flowers dingy-white and yellow. Near springs on the hills, abundant. A foot to 18 inches high') [here the journal includes a list of 14 more plants]

(4 Jul 1826) Tuesday. Drying plants and arranging seeds. The weather variable. Collecting a species of Malva (specimen 195) ('[perennial], stem reclining. Leaves reniform, orbicular, scabrous below, pubescent above. Flowers fine yellow. In low sandy soils, near springs. Not abundant')

(5 Jul 1826) Wednesday. Making a short excursion south of the Walla Walla River. Collecting a few seeds and a species of Oenothera. Returning in the evening to find Messrs McDonald [Archibald McDonald, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] and MacKay [Jean Baptiste Desportes McKay, French-Algonquin free trapper, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] on their way to the coast ('the same persons I accompanied last year in August'), offering to take dispatches with them

(6-8 Jul 1826) Thursday-Saturday. Making a box, airing plants and seeds and packing them. Very warm, with thunder in the evenings

(9 Jul 1826) Sunday. Copying in to the body of the journal a letter to Joseph Sabine, written at the junction of Lewis and Clark's River [Lewis and Clark River]:

He last wrote a month ago; he has just returned from a fatiguing but successful journey to the Blue Mountains; he found on the snowy mountains a beautiful species of Paeonia, Lupinaster macrocephalus [Trifolium macrocephalum], a 'splendid' species of Trifolium, Lupinus argenteus of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh] and another species of Lupinus, finer than Lupinus nootkatensis, with a golden-yellow spike of blossoms a foot to 20 inches long: 'I have placed Mr Turner's [John Turner, assistant secretary of the Horticultural Society] name behind it'; he found a new species of Penstemon; he has been moving constantly, not staying for longer than three nights in one place; by coincidence he met Archibald McDonald returning from a hunting excursion, who offered to transport his boxes; the collection consists of three bundles of dried plants, of 97 species, 45 papers containing seeds, three Arctomys and 'one curious rat'; he received letters from Thomas Goode and William Booth on 9 Jun, but not Sabine's letter, which John McLoughlin deemed safer to be kept behind; he is about to set off down the river, two days' march away, to receive the letter; he is preparing to return to the upper country and wishes to hear from Sabine before that, but he is in a hurry 'as the people are starting'; he asks Goode to tell Mr Atkinson [William Atkinson] that he is well, as Atkinson will inform his brother, Douglas having no time to write himself; 'I can only think of Messrs Turner, Lindley [John Lindley, assistant secretary of the Horticultural Society of London] and Munro [Donald Munro]. It is impossible I can write them a single line'

[Here the journal includes a PS on a separate slip of paper, pasted into the gutter, dated 11 Jul: 'On the Great Falls [Celilo Falls] of the Columbia at sunrise. I arrived here late last night and have secured your communication. To say I am happy would only convey but a faint idea of the rapture I enjoy in hearing from you. I have no time, am just setting out again for the upper country and am glad to think I may reach the coast before the ship sails for England. D.D.']

Embarking on the boat at 10am, proceeding at 12 miles an hour. In the afternoon, a strong westerly wind slowing the boat down, forcing it eventually to stop for the night before sunset. The currents being too strong for salmon fishing, having to kill a horse instead, 'part of the flesh of which, and a mouthful of water, I made my supper'. A warm day, temperature 97° in the shade. Thunder and lightning during the night. Having to sleep in the tent to avoid the mosquitoes

(10 Jul 1826) Monday. Continuing the journey at dawn, 'after a cheerless night, and but little refreshed'. A calm, pleasant morning. Stopping for breakfast at 11am at Day's River [John Day River, Oregon], a southern branch of the Columbia River 50-55 miles away. Having food from the previous night, only needing to light a fire for smoking. 'While eating my food an Indian who was standing alongside of me managed to steal my knife, was tied to my jacket by a string, and being the only one used for all purposes, I was loth to part with it'. Offering unsuccessfully a little tobacco in exchange. Finding the knife eventually 'secreted under the belt of one of the knaves. When detected, he claimed the premium, but as he did not give it on the first application, I paid him, and paid him so well, with my fists, that he will, I daresay, not forget the Man of Grass for some days to come'

Having to stop 12 miles above the Great Falls [Celilo Falls], not being able to get around a rocky island due to strong winds. Continuing the journey at 4pm. Reaching the Great Dalles [Columbia River, Washington], six miles below the Great Falls, at 7pm. Seeing smoke rising among the rocks, thinking it Indians fishing and going to look for salmon: 'instead of Indians, I was delighted beyond measure to find it the camp of the brigade from the sea. I cannot describe the feeling, which seizes me even on seeing a person again although I am but partially acquainted with them. After travelling in the society of savages for days together, and can but speak a few words of their language, assuredly the face of a Christian, speaks friendship, although stranger'. Everyone being kind and hospitable, bringing him water for washing, clean shirts and food

Douglas's 'old friends' John Work and Archibald McDonald giving him letters, 'which were grasped greedily and eagerly broken open', from Joseph Sabine, Donald Munro ('both gratifying'), William Atkinson, his brother [John Douglas] and a note from John McLoughlin and other friends from the coast: 'there is a sensation felt on receiving news after such a long silence, and in such a remote corner of the globe, more easily felt than described. I am not ashamed to say (although it might be thought weakness by some), I rose from my mat 4 different times during the night to read my letters'

(11 Jul-15 Jul 1826) Tuesday-Saturday. Writing a note to Joseph Sabine about receiving his letter. Continuing the journey up the river in the boats at dawn. Walking on the riverbanks, collecting seeds and plants, but finding 'nothing particular'. Warm, dry weather, with thunder in the evenings. Arriving at Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces] on Saturday

(16 Jul 1826) Sunday. Collecting seeds and packing them in a small chest with 'some notebooks and other things', to be taken to Kettle Falls by river. Temperature 96° in the shade

(17 Jul 1826) Monday. Setting off with John Work, Archibald McDonald and 'a party of 28 men' for the fork of Lewis and Clark's River [Lewis and Clark River], about 150 miles away: 'as their marches would be short, I hope to put myself in possession of most of the plants found along the banks of that river'. Camping 15 miles up the river

(18-24 Jul 1826) Tuesday-Monday. The river of 'considerable magnitude', up to 300 yards broad, deep and rapid, with four times as much water as in the Thames. 25 miles from its junction with the Columbia River, the country changing from undulating, dry and barren to high rugged mountains, without a 'blade of grass', except in the valleys or near the springs

Rising at dawn every day, camping about 10am and resting until 3 or 4pm to avoid the heat of the day. Covering 15-20 miles in the cool of the evenings. Temperature 98°-106° in the shade: 'the only thing I might say that renders it superior to the deserts of Arabia is abundance of good water enjoyed in inland voyages'. Catching salmon in the river, but not as much or as good quality as in the Columbia: 'we obtained occasionally a few of them from the Indians, but their extreme indolence prevents them from catching barely what serves themselves. Our general fare was horse flesh cooked by boiling, and sometimes roasted on the point of a spike before the fire. I learnt that the wants of the natives are simple, and they require but little to support life in original simplicity'. Finding relief from heat by bathing in the mornings and evenings ('although it causes weakness in some degree')

Arriving at the branches of the river on Monday at dusk. Finding a camp of '3 different nations, upwards of 500 men able to bear arms', from Pelusbpa [?Palus, also known as Paloos and Palouse], the Pierced Nose (Chawhaptan) [Niimiipuu, also known as Nez Perce] and Chamuiemuch [unidentified]. The chiefs staying with the party until bed time, giving them horses

(25 Jul 1826) Wednesday. Wishing to make an excursion to the mountains about 60 miles away, the same ridge he had visited the previous month further towards the south-east. His travelling companions not having made 'any arrangement with the natives, it was not thought prudent to go from the camp'. A 'conference' being held, ending 'favourably and with great splendour by dancing, singing, haranguing and smoking. All were dressed in their best garments, and on the whole presented a fine spectacle and certainly a new one to me'

(26 Jul 1826) Thursday. Setting out at dawn towards the south-east with one of Archibald McDonald's men, Cock de Lard, 'more as a companion than guide, for he was as much a stranger [in the region] as myself'. The country undulating and barren. Passing only two springs during the day. Camping at 4pm, uncertain whether more springs could be found. Finding one species of Penstemon and some seeds. A warm day

(27 Jul 1826) Friday. Reaching the mountains at 9am. Breakfasting on dry salmon and water among large Thuja occidentalis, 'the spot pointed out to me by the Indians, where Lewis and Clark [Meriwether Lewis and William Clark] built their canoes'. Leaving Cock de Lard to take care of the horses and ascending the mountain [Craig Mountain, Idaho, United States of America]

Reaching the highest peak of the first range at 2pm. Finding a 'very remarkable' spring, 11 feet in diameter, with water rising 9 inches to 3 1/2 feet above the surface, lowering and rising in sudden gushes, flowing from a stream 15 feet broad and 2 1/2 feet deep, running down the mountain with great force, and disappearing into a small marsh. Not being able to find the bottom of the spring. Surrounding the spring, a thicket of Ribes grossularia [Ribes uva-crispa], 12-15 feet high, its fruit 'of a very superior flavour, and large, nearly as large as a musket ball'. Not having seen the species before: 'should it prove new, I hope it may be called Ribes munroi [identification unresolved as at Sep 2018], as I have called the spring Munro's Fountain [after Donald Munro]. At the same time, how delighted he would feel to see such in the garden'. Collecting seeds of Ribes viscosissimum, Paeonia, a species of Vaccinium and Xylosteum [?Lonicera]

Returning to 'the man and horses' at 6pm. Camping at the same place as the previous night. Finding that the man had accidentally taken salmon only for one day, 'and both having a good appetite, we mutually agreed to make for the camp'. Setting out at dusk, before the moon rose, Cock de Lard as the guide, but going about 10 miles in the wrong direction. Arriving at the camp at dawn, and sleeping in a tent. Being woken up after two hours, 'to take on myself the profession of a soldier, a misunderstanding having taken place between the interpreter and one of the chiefs, the latter accusing the former of not translating faithfully. Words became high till at last the poor man of language had a handful of his long jet hair torn out by the roots. On the Indian being reproved, he went off in a fit of rage, and summoned his followers, amounting to 73 men. All arrived and came to our camp with their guns cocked and every bow strung [...] We (31 of us) stood to our arms and demanded if war was wanted. It was answered 'no, we want only the interpreter killed, and as he was no chief there could be but little ill done''. Being told no one was to be killed, even if 'it was only an Indian under our protection'. Eventually making peace ('the coolness that seemed to be the prominent feature in our countenance had the desired effect of cooling their desire for war') and celebrating it with speeches: 'if it may be allowed to judge from gesture and the language of nature, many of them possess qualifications that would be no disgrace to a modern orator', seeing speakers and hearers sobbing and crying aloud with emotion, with the proceedings delayed until they were recovered, the affair concluding in the exchange of presents. Despite the peace agreement, deeming it prudent to remain in the camp. Arranging and airing seeds. Setting off to camp on the northern shore of the north branch on Sunday

(31 Jul-4 Aug 1826) Monday-Friday. Securing plants and seeds carefully in a saddle bag early in the morning. Archibald McDonald leaving to continue down the river. Setting off overland with John Work and two other men to Kettle Falls towards the north-east. Finding the road good in some places, very bad in others, with badger and rabbit holes covered in grass. Travelling about 45 miles. Camping mid-afternoon on a low piece of ground with water, having only passed one spring during the day. No trees, the soil light, dry and gravelly with a little grass. Collecting seeds of two species of Astragalus. Temperature 97°. The nights dewy and rainy, minimum temperature 53°. Starting early on Tuesday and Wednesday, travelling 'briskly' until 11am, then stopping for breakfast and to rest in the heat. Opening the saddle bag to air the seeds. Making an excursion to the high grounds, leaving his watch with Work 'to know when to start' and to pick up Douglas on their way. Waiting longer than expected, and returning to find Work and the other men fast asleep. Packing and continuing the journey until dusk. Camping under a solitary poplar by a stagnant pond full of Nuphar luteum [Nuphar lutea], Nuphar advena and a species of Potamogeton: 'water very bad'. A warm day, but the wind during the night keeping the mosquitoes away. Collecting seeds of Mimulus albus [identification unresolved as at Sep 2018] and arranging specimens

Reaching the high grounds and belts of wood south of the Spokane River on Wednesday. Intending to stop by a small rivulet, but their guide ('one of the men') missing the turning. Finding no good water until 3pm, and stopping for 'breakfast' for two hours by a small lake. Proceeding northwards through woods and plains to the Spokane River, two miles below the waterfall, a perpendicular pitch of 10 feet across the river. Travelling for seven miles along the south side of the river. Camping at nightfall, rather than crossing 'some very high perpendicular rocks' in the dark. Collecting seeds of a species of Lilium. Not finding any seeds of Lilium pudicum [Fritillaria pudica], but digging up some roots, hoping they would keep on the journey to England. Warm, temperature 56°-99°, heavy dew

(3-4 Aug 1826) Thursday-Friday. Crossing the Spokane River to the old establishment on the south side at 9am. The 'old Mr Finlay [Jaco Finlay]' giving them plenty of fine fresh salmon. Leaving at noon after breakfast, for the Columbia River

Passing an Indian camp after an hour. Observing their fishing methods, using a barrier constructed of willow, placed obliquely across the channel to prevent the rapid currents from affecting it, with a small square of 35 yards within it, enclosed by funnels of basket-work ('just made in the same manner as all traps in England') for salmon to pass through to the barrier, the funnels then being closed with brushwood before spearing the fish. 1,700 fish having been caught that day by 2pm: 'how many may be in the snare I know not, but not once out of 12 will they miss bringing a fish to the surface on the barb'. The point of the spear being bone, laced to a foot-long piece of wood, 'and, at pleasure, locks on the staff and comes out of the socket when the fish is struck. It is fastened to the staff by a cord', 1,500-2,000 fish being caught within a day

Camping before dusk near a place he camped in May. Collecting seeds of a currant with white flowers. A cold night. Setting off at dawn on Friday ('as usual'). Diverting at 7am to collect more seeds of Ribes, seen the previous night, but taking a considerable time to find enough. Reaching his companions again 10 miles beyond Barriere River [Little Pend Oreille River, Washington]. Being able to ride across the river, having had to swim across it in the spring. Stopping at noon for breakfast. Continuing the journey at 2pm. On crossing the Cedar River, a small rapid stream nine miles from the Columbia River, Douglas's horse accidentally striking Douglas in the face with its head, plunging him into the river: 'I fortunately received no further injury than a good ducking, and got wet what seeds I had collected during the day, which were in my pockets and knapsack with my notebook'

Arriving at Kettle Falls at 7pm, after two months' absence. Being 'cordially and hospitably entertained' by John Dease

(5-6 Aug 1826) Collecting seeds and plants (specimens 196-227), including a species of Helonias ('[perennial], root somewhat bulbous. Leaves long, grassy. Flowers white, in a long spike. Abundant in low valleys between Spokane [Washington] and Kettle Falls'), a species of Trifolium ('[annual], flowers faint red. On wet soils in the valleys. Not plentiful'), a species of Artemisia ('flowers dirty yellow. Abundant on the banks of rivers'), a species of Lupinus ('[perennial], hirsute. Flowers blue. Legume 3-4 seeded. On the plains, in small patches. Rare') and a species of Clethra ('flowers white. Leaves ovate, serrate. A fine, strong evergreen shrub, 4 to 6 feet high. Abundant in mountain woods') [here the journal includes a list of 26 more plants]

(7-15 Aug 1826) Monday-Tuesday. Collecting and drying seeds and packing. The boats arriving on Monday, but Douglas's box containing 'seeds, plants and sundries', left for collection at the junction of Lewis and Clark's River [Lewis and Clark River], had been forgotten: 'I regret it the more, as it contains 46 papers of seeds to be sent across the Rocky Mountains this autumn, which of course I will take with me in the spring'

Having found seeds of 'most of the plants' around Kettle Falls by 15 Aug, except four species of Pinus. Asking John Work to collect them for him in October. Not being able to find perfect seeds of Lilium pudicum [Fritillaria pudica] or Claytonia lanceolata, 'being both scorched up shortly after flowering'. Digging up roots of the former. Planning to accompany Work to the upper parts of Flathead or Clark's River [Flathead River] ('as he is under the necessity of making a new arrangement and altering his course in consequence of some misunderstanding (or war party) among the different tribes inhabiting that country'), but changing his mind, considering the environment too similar to that around Kettle Falls

(16 Aug 1826) Wednesday. John McLoughlin informing Douglas that the ship [the Dryad], possibly the last one for the next few years sailing directly to England, would not leave until 1 Sep. Preparing to send his collections by the ship ('having a collection of seeds amounting to 120 of this year's gleanings') and determining to reach the ocean somehow, unless Mr Simpson ('the governor') [George Simpson, governor of Hudson's Bay Company] should arrive in the next few days. Packing a small box with five quires of paper ('3 brown and 2 cartridge'), 69 papers of seeds ('a portion of those collected on my journey') and two linen shirts, to be sent across the Rocky Mountains, for Douglas to collect at Fort Edmonton [Hudson's Bay Company trading post in Edmonton, Alberta] in June. A warm day. John Dease asking Little Wolf, 'a chief of the Okanagan [Syilx] tribe', to provide Douglas with a guide, the river ('still high with the cascades, rapids, dalles [narrow rapids] and whirlpools') being unnavigable without a six- or eight-man canoe, and no canoes large enough being available

(17 Aug 1826) Packing a bundle of dried plants in his trunk among his clothes, consisting of 'one shirt, one pair of stockings and a night cap, and a pair of old mitts, with an Indian bag of curious workmanship, made of Indian hemp, Apocynum species, Helonias tenax [Xerophyllum tenax] and eagles' quills, used for carrying roots and other articles in'

A party arriving of '21 men and 2 females belonging to the Cootanie [Kutenai, also known as Ktunaxa, Ksanka, Kootenay and Kootenai] tribe' from Cootanie Lake [Kootenay Lake, British Columbia], the source of Columbia River. Their presence causing unease, due to an ongoing dispute regarding fishing at the falls: 'the parties met stark naked in our camp, painted, some red, black, white and yellow, with their bows strung, and such as had muskets and ammunition were charged. War caps of calumet eagle [golden eagle] feathers were the only particle of dress they had on'. John Dease striking on the nose a man aiming his bow and arrow at a chief of the opposing party, injuring him but not causing much damage. The day 'spent in clamour and haranguing'. Dease's proposal of a truce agreed for the following morning: 'it would be much better they should go to each other's lands as friends, than butchering each other like dogs'. The Wolf [Little Wolf], Douglas's guide, having to stay for the peace-making

(18 Aug 1826) Friday. 'Bustle and uproar'. A peace agreement being signed in the evening and sealed with an exchange of presents. The Wolf [Little Wolf] being uncertain when he would be able to leave, with a great feast being planned. Douglas being in a hurry, John Dease asking 'an Indian, who is in the habit of attaching himself to the establishment and going on journeys with his people' to be Douglas's guide instead. Planning to leave early the following day

(19 Aug 1826) Saturday. Not being able to leave until 8am, their horses having to be found and caught. Preparing for the journey with dried buffalo meat, a little sugar and tea and a small tin pot.John Work lending him a double-barrelled rifle-pistol, Douglas's gun having broken: 'going alone as I am [without the fur traders], it is perhaps much better to have as little as possible of tempting articles about me'

Leaving the 'delightful place', pleased with his collections and the hospitality he had received. John Dease giving him a pair of deer-skin trousers and shoes ('which in my present state were very acceptable'), and providing him with three of his 'best horses, one for my guide, one for carrying my little articles, and one for myself'. Taking only one shirt and one blanket in addition to what he was wearing

Setting out for Okanagan [Fort Okanogan], 250 miles along the south banks of the Columbia River. The path mountainous and rugged, the woods similar to other parts. Nothing in particular occurring: 'my guide (to whom I cannot speak a single syllable) seems to conduct himself very well'. Camping at the foot of a high conical hill 10 miles from the Spokane River, near a small spring surrounded by birch and willow

(20 Aug 1826) Sunday. Having the horses saddled at 2am. Driving them before him on the uneven, rocky terrain. Finding travelling more pleasant in the clear moonlight than during the day. Arriving at the Spokane River, nine miles from the Columbia River, at Indian fishing lodges. Giving them a little tobacco and having four men accompany him two miles down the river to assist in crossing the horses and transporting Douglas across in a canoe. Leaving the forests and riding through a trackless, barren plain: 'not a vestige of green herbage to be seen'

Stopping opposite the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids] at 1pm for rest and breakfast, having travelled nearly 50 miles. Making a small pot of tea, letting it cool and settle, 'then sucked the water of the leaves'. Collecting some seeds and bathing in the rapid ('which recruited me greatly'). Continuing the journey westwards in the cool evening. Not being able to find fresh water until 11pm. Finding a small spring, but no wood for fuel. Attempting unsuccessfully to boil his small pan with dry grass ('a large species of Triticum'), but managing eventually to make a fire with horse droppings to boil his tea. Sleeping on the grass: 'I have a tent, but generally am so much fatigued that the labour of pitching it is too great. Here it could not be done for want of wood, and tent-poles cannot be carried'

(21 Aug 1826) Monday. Sleeping late and not leaving until 4am. Passing Grand Coulee [Washington], 'a most singular channel, and at one time must have been the channel of the Columbia [Columbia River]', up to nine miles broad, with waterfalls 'of very extraordinary height' and perpendicular volcanic rocks up to 1,800 feet high in the middle. Collecting small pieces of lava. The 'whole chain of this wonderful specimen of nature' being 200 miles long, with plants similar to those on the rocky shores of the Columbia River. Stopping by a small lake formed by a spring to rest the horses on the grass. The horses refusing to drink the sulphur-tasting water, despite not having drunk any water since the previous night. Continuing the journey at noon. The country covered with shattered stones: 'I would advise those who derive pleasure from McAdamised [macadamised] roads to come here, and I pledge myself they will find it done by nature'

One of the horses falling into a pool of water covered with Lemna or duckweed. Attempting to save the horse unsuccessfully when, about to shoot it, 'the Indian, having had some skin pulled off his right hand by the cord, through a fit of ill-nature struck the poor creature on the nose a tremendous blow with his foot, on which the horse reared up to defend himself', Douglas pricking him in the flank with his pen-knife: 'not being accustomed to such treatment, with much exertion he wrestled himself from his supposed grave'. Not being able to drink the water

(22 Aug 1826) A warm night, 'with the whole firmament in a blaze of sheet lightning and parched to a cinder'. Being unable to sleep. Setting off before dawn. Reaching the Columbia River opposite the establishment at noon. Seeing an old man spearing salmon. Having the horses watered and hobbled, and crossing the river in a small canoe with the guide. Archibald McDonald and [?Francis] Ermatinger receiving Douglas 'with every kindness'. Washing and being given a clean shirt and dinner. Finding his box [which he had left at Kettle Falls 18 Aug 1826, to be sent across the Rocky Mountains for him; see RHS/Col/5/2/1/1, page 185]. McDonald and Ermatinger purchasing a small canoe for Douglas and hiring two Indians to guide him to the junction of Lewis and Clark's River [Lewis and Clark River]. Writing a note to John Dease to be taken back by his guide, 'who behaved himself in every way worthy of trust'. Arranging seeds and plants. Going to bed early, but being troubled by mosquitoes, having had to leave doors and the parchment windows open due to the heat: 'I was under the necessity of abandoning the house at midday [midnight], and took myself to a sort of gallery over the door or gate, where I slept soundly'

Being given a little tea and sugar and a 'small tin pot made in the form of a shaving pot, the only cooking utensil. They regretted the only provision they had that would do for carrying was dried salmon, but as I still had, through the goodness of Mr D., my last host, a little dried meat, in that respect I was not so bad'. Leaving at 7am. Passing two and a half miles of rapids, taking the precaution to walk along the shore with his papers, seeds and blanket. The waves sweeping everything from the canoe, 'except the dry meat, which being very weighty, by chance was wedged in the canoe'. Losing his tea, sugar and the pot, but being pleased to have saved his papers and seeds. Camping at the mouth of the Piskahoas River [Entiat River, Washington] at dusk. Not feeling tired, but having blistered hands from having steered the canoe

(24 Aug 1826) Thursday. Before 8am reaching a dangerous part of the river with narrow channels and stony island. Hiring a pilot for 'a few crumbs of tobacco and a smoke from my own pipe', his guides being unfamiliar with the location. Eating 'some crumbs' of dried meat and salmon. Lighting his pipe with his lens to prevent the delay from kindling a fire. Reaching the top of Priest Rapids at 6pm. Taking the canoe down the rapids, his guides ('they were father and son'), being tired and carrying his belongings instead. Having to stop and camp on the north side of the river in the middle of the rapids

(25 Aug 1826) Friday. Having to wait until dawn before setting off, with four and a half miles of 'very bad water' remaining to paddle through. Leaving by land an hour before the canoe. After waiting at the foot of the rapids, returning, worried about the safety of his guides. Finding them 'comfortably seated in a small cove, treating some of their friends to a smoke with some tobacco I had given them the preceding evening'. Travelling quickly with strong currents and no rapids. Arriving at the Wallawallah establishment [Fort Nez Perces] at sunset. Being too tired to eat. Asking Samuel Black to give him two guides to the Great Falls [Celilo Falls] the following morning. Sleeping 'on a heap of firewood, to be free from mosquitoes'

(26 Aug 1826) Saturday. Writing a note to Archibald McDonald to be taken back by his guide. Giving the guide 'ten charges of ammunition and a little tobacco to buy his food on the way home'. Replacing his canoe with a larger one from Samuel Black and leaving with his two guides at 6am. Buying a fresh salmon, roasting half of it for breakfast and saving the other half for the following day. Knowing the river and its 'bad places', drifting all night, steering in turn, wishing to pass 'a camp of Indians, who are noted pillagers', unnoticed in the dark of the night

(27 Aug 1826) Sunday. Reaching Great Falls [Celilo Falls] at noon. Finding the canoe too heavy to carry, hiring another one to take him to the dalles six miles away. Purchasing a pair of grey sheep [bighorn sheep] horns, 'for which I paid 3 balls and powder to fire them. The Indian had the skin dressed, forming a sort of shirt, but refused it me unless I should give him mine in return, which at present I cannot spare'

Finding 500-700 people at the Dalles [the area was the centre for fishing and trading]. Not finding the chief Pawquanawaka at home, having hoped to have his services as a guide for the final stretch to the sea. Finding two guides easily, one of them already familiar, being 'in my own province again, and understanding the language tolerably well'. Eating nuts and whortleberries and proceeding overland for 15 miles, 'taking an Indian to assist me in carrying my things', his guides taking the canoe over the Dalles. In the evening, 73 men coming to smoke with Douglas. Discovering his tobacco tin had disappeared, Douglas perching on a rock, 'and in their own tongue I gave them a furious reprimand, calling them all the low names used to each other among themselves. I told them they saw me only [as] one Blanket Man, but I was more than that, I was the Grass Man, and was not afraid'. Not being able to recover his tobacco, but being left to sleep in peace

(28 Aug 1826) Monday. Detained by a strong wind until 8am. Travelling slowly. Camping 15 miles above Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids]

(29 Aug 1826) Tuesday. Having to carry his belongings along the shore, due to the strong wind and high waves, his guides bringing the canoe down the river. Arriving at the village on Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids] at 3pm. Being given salmon and whortleberries, 'laid before me on a mat', by the chief Chumtalia [a local chief], his guide from the previous year. Asking for a large canoe and guides to the sea. Chumtalia offering to come himself, but, 'as he was busily employed curing salmon, I was loth to accept his services'. Being offered the services of Chumtalia's brother and nephew. Continuing the journey in a large canoe in the evening. Camping on a low sand bank, free of grass and insects. Continuing the journey before dawn to avoid the wind. Passing Point Vancouver [Washington] at sunrise

Landing at Fort Vancouver at noon, after almost 800 miles' journey in 12 days, 'unattended by a single person, my Indian guides excepted'. His friends giving him 'every attention a way-worn wanderer is entitled to', having thought on seeing him that he was the only survivor of his companions. Wearing a shirt, leather trousers and an old straw hat, without 'shoe nor stocking nor handkerchief of any description, and perhaps my careworn visage had some appearance of escaping from the gates of death'. Meeting Peter Skeene Ogden ('brother of the solicitor general for the Canadas') [Peter Skene Ogden, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, explorer, brother of Charles Richard Ogden, solicitor general of Lower Canada], 'a man of much information and seemingly a very friendly-disposed person, and Captain Davidson of the Dryad [James Davidson, captain of the Hudson's Bay Company ship Dryad]. All Douglas's collections having arrived safely, apart from one curlew and one partridge. Unpacking and repacking seeds, the ship being due to sail the following day

(31 Aug 1826) John McLoughlin providing Douglas with boxes. Finishing packing by noon. Writing to Joseph Sabine, and intending to write to Donald Munro and William Atkinson in the evening

[Here the journal is signed by Douglas at Fort Vancouver, 31 Aug 1826; the section preceding this was presumably sent to England on the Dryad, along with his collections]

(31 Aug 1826) Writing to Munro, Atkinson, Thomas Goode, William Booth and his brother [John Douglas], despite being tired and 'in a state little qualified for giving my friends a year's news'. Spending another restless night

(1 Sep 1826) Friday. Seeing his chests placed on a boat for the ship, having at first intended to see them to the ship himself, but giving his instructions instead to the captain. Returning up the river after saying goodbye to those travelling to England

(2-15 Sep 1826) Saturday-Friday. Warm and cloudy, with heavy dew at night. Collecting seeds of selected plants, including Ribes sanguineum, Gaultheria shallon, Acer macrophyllum, Berberis aquifolium and Acer circinatum. Arranging specimens of Pinus taxifolia [?Abies balsamea or Pseudotsuga menziesii] with fine cones. Collecting woods, gums and barks of various trees

Consulting with John McLoughlin about an intended journey south of the Columbia River and Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel, Oregon] towards the Umpqua River [Oregon]. Having spoken about this previously to Jean Baptist Mackay [Jean Baptiste McKay], 'one of the hunters', but McKay having passed through earlier than expected, in July. Being promised a passage with a party due to be despatched in that direction in a few days under A.R. McLeod [Alexander Roderick McLeod, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, explorer], 'a gentleman who has given me much civility'. McLeod leaving on Friday by land to McKay's abandoned establishment on the Multnomah River, 56 miles from the Columbia, to wait for the rest of the party

(16-19 Sep 1826) Saturday-Tuesday. Preparing for the journey. His gun having broken, having to buy a new one for £2. Packing lightly as the journey would be on uncharted territory by land. Packing six quires of paper 'and other little articles for my business', a small copper kettle and tobacco for presents and for paying his way. In addition to the clothes worn, taking one linen and one flannel shirt, two blankets and a tent ('as heavy rains may be expected'). John McLoughlin sending 'one of his finest and most powerful' horses to the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel] for Douglas

(20 Sep 1826) Wednesday. Leaving Fort Vancouver at noon with Mr Manson ('one of the persons in authority') [Donald Manson, superintendent at Hudson's Bay Company] and 12 men in one boat, with their hunting equipment. Camping five miles up the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel] at dusk

(21 Sep 1826) Continuing the journey at sunrise. Camping on the rocks on the falls among the drift wood. A warm day, with heavy dew at night

(22 Sep 1826) Friday. The boat having sustained damage at the falls, the party having to spend two hours gumming it. Collecting seeds, including Penstemon richardsonii. Continuing the journey at 7am. Stopping for breakfast after an hour. Reaching Alexander McLeod's encampment at 4pm. Pitching tents and having supper at dusk. A pleasant day, with a beautiful evening sky

(23-25 Sep 1826) Being detained, several horses having strayed into the woods. Collecting seeds, including two species of Rosa, Viburnum with large, oval, black berries, a species of Caprifolium [Lonicera] and a Ribes similar to Ribes sanguineum. Warm and pleasant weather, with heavy dew at night

(26 Sep 1826) Tuesday. Being detained at the camp, five horses still being lost. Pleasant day. Drying seeds and arranging specimens

(27 Sep 1826) The horses retrieved in the morning. Continuing the journey westwards at noon, towards the coast. Camping at 2pm by a small creek. The country undulating, with rich, light soil and beautiful solitary oaks and pines, but everything having been burned. Having no fresh meat, everyone taking their guns. Douglas raising two small deer but not managing to shoot them. Expecting Alexander McLeod to bring back 'something'. The day's journey five miles

(28 Sep 1826) Thursday. Alexander McLeod returning after dusk the previous night, bringing with him an Indian guide from the coast, 'south of the country inhabited by the Killimuks [Tillamook, also known as Nehalem]'. No one having managed to shoot anything, despite seeing nine deer altogether. A pleasant but chilly morning with heavy dew. Temperature 41°. Continuing the journey at 8am towards the south-west. Passing two small streams. At noon finding four deer in a small hummock of Corylus and Pteris aquilina [Pteridium aquilinium], one of the hunters killing one 200 yards away. Camping on the south side of Yamhill River [Oregon], a small stream 25 yards wide, with fine cascades. The soil fine and rich, with more oaks and fewer, smaller pines. Drying seeds and papers. Walking a few miles up the river. Collecting plants in the open woods, including a species of Donia in flower and a small annual plant related to Phlox. The hunters searching for deer: 'I expect a fine fall, as 17 shots were heard in various directions in the woods'

(29 Sep 1826) Friday. A dull and cloudy morning. Alexander McLeod managing to kill only one young deer, wounding its mother but not managing to find her afterwards. One of the hunters returning at 8am with a 'very large, fine doe'. Continuing the journey at 9am towards the south-west. Camping near the summit of a low hill at 3pm. Heavy rain. Distance covered that day about 13 miles. Not seeing anything new

(30 Sep 1826) Saturday. A cloudy morning, clear and fine with a westerly wind in the afternoon. Drying wet items in the morning. Continuing the journey towards the south at 9am. The country largely burned, with little greenery to be seen: 'some of the natives tell me it is done for the purpose of urging the deer to frequent certain parts to feed, which they leave unburned, and of course they are easily killed. Others say that it is done in order that they might the better find wild honey and grasshoppers, which both serve as articles of winter food'. Not finding anything new. Seeing four large bucks. Returning to the camp at 4pm. Going out with a hunting party after supper and cleaning his gun. An Indian hunter killing two deer, and Alexander McLeod injuring one. Returning shortly after dark

(1 Oct 1826) Sunday. Heavy dew at night, followed by a clear and pleasant day with a westerly wind. Continuing the journey in the morning. Having to circle around two deep ravines. Not finding anything new, despite walking most of the day. Seeing some Arbutus laurifolia trees [?Arbutus unedo, Gaultheria fragrantissima or Arbutus xalapensis], 15 inches to two feet in diameter, 30-45 feet high, larger than those on the Columbia River, its fruit nearly ripe, growing in deep, rich, black loam near springs. Passing Indians digging up roots of Phalangium quamash [Camassia quamash] on a low plain, with large bulbs. Camping at 4pm by a small stream falling into Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel] three miles to the east

Sunday being observed on such journeys 'only by the people changing their linen, and such of them as can read, in the evenings peruse religious tracts etc, whose tenets are agreeable to the Church of Rome'. Walking out with his gun at dusk. Seeing a large wasp-nest, taken from a tree by bears. One of the hunters, John Kennedy, seeing a large male grizzly bear 200 yards away: 'being too dark, we thought it prudent to leave him unmolested'. The day's journey amounting to 18 miles

(2 Oct 1826) Monday. A chilly morning with heavy dew, clear and fine during the day and lightning in the evening. A small doe killed near the camp in the morning and placed on one of the horses. Searching for the bear from the previous night. Having trouble passing two deep gullies at noon, the banks being covered with brushwood, willow, dogwood and alder. Travelling southwards. The country burnt, apart from the deep ravines, covered with Pteris aquilina [Pteridium aquilinium], Solidago and a species of Carduus. On high grounds with deep rich loam, seeing oaks measuring 18-24 feet in circumference, but rarely more than 30 feet high. A curious species of Viscum growing abundantly in less fertile places, with scrubby and small trees: 'I recollect Dr Hooker [William Jackson Hooker] asking me if I ever saw it on oak in Scotland, which I never did'. Finding no fodder for the horses until 4pm. Camping by a woody rivulet after a journey of 21 miles. Having painful feet, toes cut with the burned stumps of a species of Arundo and Spiraea tomentosa

(3 Oct 1826) Tuesday. Attempting unsuccessfully to hunt for deer with Alexander McLeod the previous night, having almost run out of provisions. The Indian hunter, having been out all night, returning in the morning with a deer. A raw and chilly morning, rain forcing the party to camp at 1pm after only nine miles. Seeing a small, light mottled grey hawk with a bright azure head and neck, and plenty of large buzzards. Collecting seeds of a species of Gentiana ('leaves ovate, acute, entire. 2 feet high, on moist black soil. Near springs')

(4 Oct 1826) Wednesday. A cloudy morning. The sky clearing. Continuing the journey at 10am towards the south. Passing three small streams, all flowing into Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel], 10 miles away. Not finding a suitable place to camp until 5pm. Camping by a muddy stream, its banks covered with Fraxinus. Seeing several deer, but not killing any. Nothing in particular happening. Stopping after a journey of 24 miles, 'somewhat fatigued'

(5 Oct 1826) Thursday. Continuing southwards at 9am after a 'scanty' breakfast. The country becoming hillier. Passing Mount Jefferson [Oregon] at 1pm, 25-30 miles away, the summit covered with snow. Seeing two high mountains east of Mount Jefferson, 'in an unknown tract of country called by the natives who inhabit it Clamite [Klamath, Oregon]'. Seeing large Pinus resinosa on the low hills, four to six feet in diameter, 90-130 feet high: 'secure specimens on your return'. Killing a large grey squirrel, 2 feet long from tail to snout. Seeing ground or striped squirrel and flying squirrel, but not managing to catch them. Camping by a low woody stream on a burnt plain. One of the hunters killing a small doe: 'an unexpected supper'. A fine, clear day with a strong north-west wind. Temperature 74° at noon in the shade. The day's journey amounting to 19 miles

(6 Oct 1826) Friday. Heavy dew at night, followed by a clear and fine day with a northerly breeze. Two of the hunters killing three small deer early in the morning. Being pleased, as all the meat had been cooked for breakfast. Continuing at 9am towards the south. Collecting seeds of a species of Argemone, likely a fine species, but being unable to say, having no reference book. Being joined at noon by Jean Baptiste McKay and two Iroquois hunters on their way to the Umpqua River. McKay having sent someone five days ago to collect the cones requested by Douglas the previous spring. Having to camp earlier than usual, the day being warm and the horses tired. Camping by a long narrow lake, its banks covered with Scirpus, Typha angustifolia and Nymphaea advena [Nuphar advena]. Pyrus, common on the Columbia River, plentiful on the outskirts of the woods. The day's journey amounting to 16 miles. Having sore feet from the burned stumps of brushwood and tough grasses

(7 Oct 1826) Saturday. A pleasant morning, sunny and warm day. Having to wait until 12pm one of the Indians, having lost his way the previous night. Buying the skin of a large female grizzly bear from Jean Baptiste McKay for an old small blanket and a little tobacco: 'this was to make myself an under robe to lay on, as I found it cold, from the dew, lying on the grass'. McKay promising to kill Douglas a male and a female bear, 'so as I might have it in my power of measuring them, if not to skin them'. John Kennedy being attacked by a large grizzly bear when out hunting, having escaped up a small oak tree, the bear catching him with its paws: 'very fortunately his clothing was not strong, or he must have perished. His blanket, coat and trousers were almost torn to pieces. This species of bear cannot climb trees'. The country hillier and the soil poor and dry, with limestone in the small rivulets. Seeing a species of Quercus on the summits of low hills, in dry, parched soil, clay or rocks, 2-3 feet in diameter but rarely taller than 30-40 feet, possibly Quercus tinctoria [Quercus velutina]. Camping in a low, wooded valley at 3pm after seven miles' march

(8 Oct 1826) Sunday. A cool and pleasant morning, warm and clear day. Temperature 82° in the shade. Lightning and a westerly wind in the evening. Continuing the journey at 9am towards the south. Seeing plenty of Quercus and Fraxinus in the valleys and Pinus taxifolia [?Pseudotsuga menziesii] on the mountains, smaller than on the Columbia River and the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel]. Finding no new plants. Camping under oaks on a low hill after a five-hour march of 13 miles. Not having much to eat, having killed no deer. One of the hunters killing a small deer after dusk for breakfast: 'we are just living from hand to mouth'

(9 Oct 1826) Monday. A cloudy and rainy morning. Continuing the journey at noon. The hunters finding a small herd of elk, but only managing to kill one after 11 shots: 'at this season the males are very lean and tough eating'. The elk weighing about 500lbs, with large antlers, 33 inches between the tips with five prongs on each, the body brown with a black four-inch mane: 'I am pretty certain this is the same sort of animal which I have seen at the Duke of Devonshire's [William Cavendish, the 6th Duke of Devonshire, had a menagerie of animals at Chiswick House, London], and unquestionably a very distinct species from the European stag'

Climbing a low hill, about 2,500 feet high, with low shrubs, small oaks and a species of Castanea growing on the summit. Having seen the Castanea growing to a low height at the foot of the hill, judging it to be a species of Shepherdia from its lanceolate, deep glossy green above and ferruginous underneath leaves, but seeing the trees growing to 60-100 feet high, judging it to be Castanea chrysophylla [Chrysolepis chrysophylla]: 'its rich, varied foliage, quivering in the wind, clothed to the very roots with wide-spreading branches, and standing alone on the dry knolls or on the crevices of rocks, gives a tint to the general appearance of American vegetation of more than ordinary beauty'. Never having seen it before and not having a reference book, being unable to say whether the species was new, but thinking it to be rare: 'at least I had a laborious search to find it in fruit'. Finding only one tree with fruit, with sharp prickles on the husk. Hoping to find more on high ground, making 'every effort to secure such a desirable object'. A large evergreen shrub, possibly a species of Clethra, growing under the tree, four to ten feet high with ovate, five-nerved, serrated leaves with glutinous and sweet-scented upper side. Seeing plenty of a curious species of Helleborus with ternate leaves. Collecting specimens, 'sticky as they are'. Walking along a small serpentine stream on the other side of the hill for six miles to find the party encamped in a small cove. Having his tent pitched and belongings secured, the weather appearing unsettled

(10 Oct 1826) Tuesday. A cool, pleasant and cloudy morning. Continuing the journey at 8am, having to cross the same hill he climbed the previous day: 'apprehending rainy weather, and the horses poorly off for fodder and ourselves on bad hunting ground'. Encamping on the other side of the hill at 2pm in a small valley. Seeing several species of Pinus, including Pinus resinosa on more elevated parts, all very large, up to 250 feet high and 35-55 feet in circumference. Seeing plants including Arbutus menziesii, Spiraea capitata [Physocarpus capitatus], Berberis nervosa and a species of Carex [here the journal includes a list of 10 more plants]. Attempting to find Ilex dahoon [Ilex cassine], but without success. Seeing the plant assumed the previous days to be a species of Clethra, and finding it to be a new species, different from that on the higher parts of the Columbia River and from the deciduous species on the coast. Being unable to collect many seeds due to the late season, hoping to find more of these and seeds of Arbutus laurifolia [?Arbutus unedo, Gaultheria fragrantissima or Arbutus xalapensis] later. Collecting specimens of two species of Caprifolium, one resembling Caprifolium ciliosum [identification unresolved as at Sep 2018] of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh], the other with small ovate, hirsute leaves, a slender plant, three to four feet tall, twining around low brushwood

Heavy rain in the afternoon and through the night. The day's journey amounting to 11 miles: 'as I walked all the way, and my course was much more circuitous than the brigade, I felt no little embarrassment in making my way through the thicket' made up of Pteris aquilina [Pteridium aquilinium] 8-10 feet high, bound together with Rubus suberectus [?Rubus nessensis] and several species of decayed Vicia, having to rest every 300 or 400 yards

(11 Oct 1826) Wednesday. Cloudy and windy with heavy rain and thunder until noon. Alexander McLeod deciding to stay at the camp for the day, the horses needing a rest, not having had much food the previous days. Hanging up his blanket and clothing to dry. Changing specimen and seed papers and drying them in the sun. Being forced to turn back from a walk to a small wood because of rain, but finding his papers saved by McLeod. Rain throughout the night

(12 Oct 1826) Thursday. Heavy showers. Having to remain at the camp, two of the horses having strayed to the previous encampment. Walking northwards. Not finding anything new, except a very small partridge, 10 inches long including its tail, its back dusky-brown, its breast lead and brick coloured or purple red with a white streak, tips of feathers white, with a 'remarkably small' beak, lead-coloured head with three black feathers, weighing 8-12 ounces: 'this most curious little bird I learn inhabits the upland dry low woods, and in the winter and spring are seen in flocks of 40 to 100 together'. Seeing five of the birds, but only managing to shoot one: 'I regret exceedingly that this was so much shattered, the upper beak and right leg being taken by the shot, being too large'. Determining to find one and shoot it with smaller shot. The horses having been found, intending to continue the journey early the following morning

(13 Oct 1826) Friday. Heavy dew at night, the morning dull and foggy, clear and fine at noon, bright sky in the evening. Temperature 66°. Alexander McLeod leaving before dawn to hunt for a herd of elk seen the previous evening. Arranging specimens and leaving at 7am. Reaching a small rivulet at 9am, running from the mountains into the Umpqua River 35-40 miles away

Finding Jean Baptiste McKay, and shortly afterwards McLeod. McKay and McLeod shooting two small deer, giving Douglas the opportunity of measuring them. Providing dimensions for the male and female, including the distance between the eyes, length of the neck, girth, legs and tail. Regretting not being able to preserve them, being on the move every day. Their bodies light grey, with the belly, inside of thighs and under the tail white, changing their colour to a light reddish-brow in the summer season, after having their young in April and May. The female deer weighing 90-100lbs, 'without the gut'. The antlers of the buck curved with four to seven prongs. Measuring the dimensions of the antlers, and, 'being the only thing in my power to keep, I tied it to my knapsack', hoping to obtain specimens of the entire animal later

McKay making them 'fine steaks' after a rest, roasting a shoulder of the roe for breakfast with an infusion of Mentha borealis, sweetened with sugar. Eating off the mossy foliage of Gaultheria shallon instead of a plate, drinking tea out of a large wooden dish, their spoons made of the horns of mountain sheep: 'a stranger can hardly imagine the hospitality and kindness shown among these people. If they have a hut, or failing that, if the day is wet, one of brushwood is made for you, and whatever they have in the way of food, you are unceremoniously and seemingly with much good-will invited to partake'. After smoking with 'a few straggling Indians belonging to the Umpqua tribe', continuing the journey along the banks of a small stream

The track mountainous and rugged, covered with wood. Having to use a small hatchet or a large knife as a hedge-bill to cut through Acer circinatum forming the underwood. Camping at 3pm five miles down the stream, having walked 11 miles. McKay's hunter returning from the Umpqua River, but due to a misunderstanding, bringing only a few seeds baked on the embers of pine. The party including two people fluent in Cheenook [Chinookan] ('in which I make myself well understood'), Douglas being hopeful of finding the pine [sugar pine] in abundance at their destination. Failing that, determining to make his way to 'that very partially known country called Clamite [Klamath, Oregon]' to the north-east, the pine growing there according to Archibald McDonald. McDonald, having passed through in Sep 1825, Douglas asking him then to look for it in the Cascade Mountains [British Columbia, Canada and Washington, Oregon and California, United States of America] or near Mount Hood [Oregon, United States of America] and another snowy mountain, called by Douglas Mount Vancouver [?Mount Rainier, Washington]: 'he found it there, being then going on a year's journey, not knowing where to, and no doubt entertaining views of no very pleasant nature, he of course could not bring me any'

(14 Oct 1826) Saturday. Not pitching his tent, the evening being bright and calm, but being woken up by heavy rain at 4am. Raining all day. Several small deer killed in the morning, and several others wounded. The remaining journey being hilly and through woods, eventually having to stop and wait for better weather. Cleaning his gun and reading old newspapers. Measuring a large antler of an elk found by one of the men, 4 feet 1 1/4 inches long, weighing (dry) about 12lbs

(15 Oct 1826) Sunday. A dull and cloudy morning, clearing at noon, with variable winds. The horses unable to proceed on the hilly, rough path through the woods. Several small deer killed. Making a short trip to nearby hills. Finding a strong evergreen shrub 4-15 feet high with obovate, smooth and ciliated leaves, growing abundantly in rocky and sandy locations on the low hills, but not finding seeds or capsules. Seeing several large Castanea trees, but failing to find fruit. Fine evening

(16 Oct 1826) Monday. A foggy, dull and raw morning. Temperature 42°. Continuing the journey at 9am towards the west. Travelling for two miles through open, hilly country with small streams, then entering thick woods, passing three ridges of mountains, the highest peak about 2,700 feet. Taking the lead with Alexander McLeod, followed by Jean Baptiste McKay and two hunters, hewing down branches and clearing fallen trees to allow the horses to pass. Several horses falling, rolling down the hills on the muddy ground. Douglas taking the precaution to carry his collections on his back, tied up in a bear skin. Crossing the small stream by which they camped the previous night

Seeing a fine large tree in the valleys growing beside rivulets, possibly belonging to Myrtaceae, its fruits large and globular with think green skin around a small nut and abundant flower buds: 'pressed as I am at present, can only carefully preserve them, and that will be done by one amply qualified for the task'. The leaves lanceolate, entire and smooth, the wood, fruit, bark and leaves aromatic, resembling Myrtus pimenta [Pimenta dioica], 'and, when rubbed in the hands, produces sneezing, like pepper'. The tree 40-70 feet high, 18 inches to three feet in diameter, with smooth, whitish bark and bright green young shoots, appearing to be favoured by squirrels: 'this very splendid evergreen tree will prove, I hope, a most valuable addition to the garden, and perhaps may be found useful in medicine or as a perfume'. Being unable to climb up the smooth bark to obtain seeds, having to cut down a large tree, blistering his hands

Seeing large Castanea trees, but not in fruit, and plenty of Ribes sanguineum and Rubus spectabilis, growing luxuriantly in deep shady places near water. Finding a horn of black-tailed deer: 'the temptation was too great, so I tied it on the bear-skin bundle', the animal appearing larger than the long-tailed deer [?white-tailed deer]. Having to rest every 200-300 yards, stopping a few times for a pipe of tobacco: 'in this way did I drag over the most laborious and tedious marches I have experienced for many days'. On reaching the final summit, seeing the Umpqua River, flowing through the mountains, woods and plains of 'a variable and highly decorated country'

Camping by the river at 5pm, after 17 miles' march. With little fresh food remaining, McLeod and McKay going out to hunt deer. Douglas chopping wood, kindling the fire and setting up the camp. Bathing in the river in the twilight. The river running north-west, 90 yards wide with a worn sandstone bed. Seeing a small rapid and small grassy islands 200 yards further down, the channels too narrow and rocky to admit a boat larger than 'a ship's jolly-boat'. The ocean about 30-35 miles away, judging by the presence of Menziesia ferruginea and Pinus canadensis [Tsuga canadensis], which tend to grow along the coasts

Only some of the horses having arrived by 8pm, not expecting them to arrive until the following day, despite the moonlight. Not having anything to lie down on, his horse and belongings not having arrived. McLeod returning, not having succeeded in killing any deer, although wounding one. A fine evening

(17 Oct 1826) Tuesday. Having sat up by the fire until 10pm the previous evening, and learning that some of their party had camped in the first valley or before that, along with Douglas's horse and belongings, Alexander McLeod giving Douglas his own blanket and buffalo-robe, sleeping himself with two great-coats. A dull and heavy morning, followed by a clear and fine day with an easterly wind. Going out to hunt with McLeod and Jean Baptiste McKay, not having anything for breakfast

Finding the deer wounded by McLeod the previous evening, McKay shooting it in the chest at the distance of 200 yards, the deer attempting to swim across the river, 'when he passed a second in at one ear, and out of the other'. Returning to the camp at 12 pm 'in fine spirits'. The deer floating down the stream, being dragged onto shore 'by an Indian boy'. Measuring the dimensions of the deer, weighing about 190lbs ('very fat'). Eating a 'comfortable meal'. Arranging specimens and drying seeds and cones of Pinus taxifolia [?Pseudotsuga menziesii]. Finding nothing new by the river. His horses arriving at 4pm 'in a sad condition'. Finding the tin box containing his notebooks and papers and a canister of preserving powder broken, and his spare shirt 'worn by rubbing between them, like a piece of surgeon's lint', but finding his papers in good condition, and feeling pleased to have carried his specimens of plants and seeds on his back

Hoping finally to find the pine [sugar pine] he had been searching for in the mountainous country up the river, near the place described to him in August 1825 by an Indian on the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel], with large seeds in his smoking-pouch. Intending to leave in a few days, providing the weather was good and there were enough provisions. McKay giving him 'one of his Indian hunters', an 18-year old man, as a guide: 'what nation he belongs to, he does not know, but tells me he was brought from the south by a war party when a child, and kept as a slave until McKay took him: he is very fond of this sort of life, and has no wish of returning to his Indian relations'. The man speaking a few words of Umptqua [Umpqua may refer to several distinct groups of people speaking different, unrelated, languages] and understanding Cheenook [Chinookan]. Douglas feeling confident they would have no trouble communicating with each other. Preserving the horns of the large buck, intending to measure them later. Fine evening

(18 Oct 1826) Wednesday. Heavy dew at night, followed by a dull and heavy morning. Not being ready to leave until 11am. Setting off southwards through varied country, crossing the river five miles from the camp. Finding two lodges and about 25 people, mostly women of 'Centrenose (an Indian word)', a local chief living by the river [Upper Umpqua], the chief himself being 45 miles up the river. Being 'very courteously' brought a large canoe for crossing, 'in which I embarked, and swam the horses at the stern, holding the bridles in my hand'. Staying only a few minutes, finding his guide did not speak the language [the guide may have spoken a Lower Umpqua language, whereas the local people appear to have been Upper Umpqua]. Being given Corylus nuts, roots of Phalangium quamash [Camassia quamash], meal made from seeds of a Syngenesia and 'the nuts of my smelling-tree [?Umbellularia californica]', roasted in embers. The men wearing shirts and trousers made of the skins of the small deer, with 'the richer sort' striped and decorated with marine shells ('which proves our distance from the ocean to be short'). The women wearing petticoats made of Thuja occidentalis tissue, similar to Cheenook [Chinookan] women, and a leather gown, with sleeves more open than those worn by the men. Paying for the smelling-tree nuts [?Umbellularia californica] with beads, brass rings and a pipe of tobacco. The children, on seeing Douglas, running 'with indescribable fear'. At first seeing only one man and one woman: 'the others I conceive came on being made acquainted with my friendly disposition'. Measuring several trees 2 1/2 feet in diameter and 60-70 feet high. A decoction of the leaves and tender shoots being used to make a 'by no means an unpalatable beverage'

Continuing the journey at 2pm, having been told he could save time by crossing a low hill to another part of the river. Seeing a herd of 17 small deer on the riverbanks, shooting one 'through the vertebrae on the fore-part of the shoulder, and [it] dropped instantly on the spot', having previously seen them frequently run for several hundred yards, even when shot through the heart. In order to climb the mountains, attempting to find a place to cross the river. Making a raft instead: 'after an hour's hard labour, in the course of which my hands were in a sad condition with blisters, and after all I found it by far too small'. Kindling a fire and roasting venison ribs for supper

(19 Oct 1826) Thursday. Temperature 41°, but chilly and raw with a heavy dew. Having to wake up three times to rekindle the fire, having only one blanket and a small piece of buffalo-skin to sleep on ('which during the day serves in lieu of a horse-rug'), with his hands too 'bad' in the morning to be able to use the hatchet. Sending a note to Alexander McLeod by his guide, as he was only nine miles away. Going to hunt in the meanwhile. Wounding a very large buck in the shoulder near the camp, and following it, but falling into a deep gully filled with dead wood, waking up on his belly, his face covered with mud. Writing the journal at 5pm, experiencing severe chest pain. Being assisted to his camp by 'six Indians of the Calapooie [Kalapuya] tribe'. Deciding to return to the main camp, asking his helpers to saddle his horse: 'it gave me more pleasure than I can well describe, to think I had wherewith for them to eat, and after expressing my gratitude in the best way I could, one came to lead the horse while I crept along by the help of a stick and my gun'. Finding John Kennedy by the Indian lodges, having been sent by McLeod to make Douglas a raft. Kennedy giving Douglas his horse to ride. 'I had a little tea made me, and bled myself in the left foot, and since I find [myself] somewhat relieved'. Eight small deer and two large bucks having been killed that day. A cool evening

(20 Oct 1826) Friday. A dull and foggy morning after a chilly night. Not having had much sleep. Not being in pain any longer, but finding his back and shoulders stiff, 'as if under a heavy load'. Refreshing himself by bathing in the river early in the morning. Waiting until midday for the horses to be collected, and for the promised visit of chief Centrenose [Upper Umpqua chief]. Two of the chief's son coming after 10am to say he would return from the upper country in the evening

Setting off at 12pm on the right bank of the river, heading westwards towards the ocean. The river circuitous and the bedrock composed of sandstone, with woody banks. The country hilly. Attempting to shoot 'one very large male small deer', but not managing despite firing eight shots. Passing a high, steep, densely wooded hill, with a small stream and dense woods at the foot. Not being able to ride through the fallen timber and shattered rocks and having to walk, 'but little able to endure it. Remained in the rear, and by so doing, had the way well pathed [a path cleared] for me'. Finding that what he had assumed to be two species of Caprifolium [Lonicera], only being a single species, the same found the previous year at Oak Point [Washington] by the Columbia River, growing more hirsute and less luxuriant in open, dry locations than in the shady woods: 'if I had not seen the difference on the same plant, undoubtedly I should have considered them distinct'. Camping on a low semi-circular plain surrounded by hills: 'find myself much broken by this day's march' of 10 miles. A cool and dewy evening

(21 Oct 1826) Saturday. A heavy dew at night, chilly at sunrise, clear sunshine during the day and a westerly breeze in the afternoon. Feeling better, but still stiff: 'having to go only about 5 miles to where the horses must be left, I am in hopes of having a rest for a day or two'. Continuing the journey at 10am. Passing through two 'bad', densely wooded gullies, with a path having to be cut for the horses, taking a considerable time. Camping before dusk at the end of a small, rich plain, at the foot of high mountains covered with pine: 'I perceive a hardness in the sky, and a softness in the atmosphere for the last 3 days', the temperature being higher during the night and lower during the day, indicating closeness to the ocean. A message being sent to an Indian village a mile down the river to inform them of their arrival. The messengers being accompanied on their return by the chief, his son, and about 20 others, arriving in large fine canoes, similar to those used on the Columbia River and bringing fine salmon trout, 2-3 ½ feet long. Learning that the fish were caught using a spear: 'as I understand, the Indians are totally unacquainted with fishing with a net'. Cloudy evening

(22 Oct 1826) Sunday. A cloudy but pleasant morning, with a light westerly wind. Being visited by 'our new Indian friends' in the morning. Cooking 'excellent' salmon brought by the visitors for breakfast. Alexander McLeod and Jean Baptiste McKay shooting a large black-tailed deer feeding among the horses near the camp. The deer being a distinct species, much larger than the long-tailed deer [?white-tailed deer], with two-pronged, straight antlers, long neck and short tail, its back light grey and belly, inside of the forelegs and thighs, neck and ears bluish white, a black ring around the nose, a short black mane and black tail. Inhabiting different places than the long-tailed deer, on high ground rather than on the plains, preferring a southern climate and rarely seen beyond 48°N, rarer than the long-tailed deer

McKay having brought Douglas a snare made of grass last spring, Douglas assuming it to be a species of Helonias, but discovering it to be a small species of Iris, growing abundantly on low, damp, rich grounds. Being unable to find seeds due to the lateness of the season. The snare used for hunting elk and deer, strong enough to 'hold the strongest bullock, and [is] not thicker than the little finger'

All the women tattooed, mainly on the lower jaw from the ears: 'some in lines from the ear to the mouth, some across, some spotted, and some completely blue. It is done by a sharp piece of bone and cinder from the fire. It is needless to say [it] is considered a great mark of beauty. I have little doubt that such a lady in London would make a fine figure, particularly when a little red and green earth is added to the upper part of the face'

McLeod making arrangements for his journey south of the river, to explore the existence of other rivers. Douglas planning to travel towards the headwaters of the Umpqua River, provided he stayed healthy, hoping to find additions to his collections. Centrenose, 'the principal chief of the upper country' [Upper Umpqua chief], visiting the camp in the afternoon, McLeod arranging through interpreters for Centrenose or his sons to accompany Douglas. Feeling better. A fine but cloudy evening

(23 Oct 1826) Monday. A cloudy and calm morning. Alexander McLeod arranging for the chief's son to accompany Douglas to the upper country. Not wanting to take more than two horses, with the hilly, woody, difficult terrain, one for the guide and one for his blanket and papers. Setting off at 10am. Crossing the river at the chief's lodge: 'they readily carried me across in the canoe, and behaved very civilly'. Returning to the spot of his earlier raft-making attempt. Killing a small doe, 'which gave me a little hope at the beginning of my march'. The guide kindling a small fire to invite assistance, and two men coming from their lodge two miles further up to take Douglas across in a canoe and to guide the horses across a shallow part of the river. Camping near the lodge. Not being able to speak their language, 'but by signs they kindled my fire, brought me water, nuts, roots of Phalangium quamash [Camassia quamash], and the sort of meal made of the Syngenesious plant spoken of before, and some salmon trout. Finding them not only hospitable, but kind in the extreme, I gave them all the flesh of the deer except one shoulder, some presents of beads, rings and tobacco'. Rain in the afternoon, fine and clear in the evening. Seeing a shrubby species of Lupinus on the rocky riverbank ('leaflets 5, 7, 9, lanceolate, silky on both sides. 2 foot to 4 high')

(24 Oct 1826) Tuesday. A cloudy, raw and dull morning. Douglas's 'new friends' waking him up before dawn to eat trout they had speared during the night at a small rapid nearby. Leaving the camp at dawn. Passing a low, rich plain four miles long, along the riverbanks, then a dense wood five miles wide. Stopping by a river bend at noon to refresh the horses, tired after the nine-mile journey over deep, rocky gullies covered with fallen trees. Continuing the journey at 2pm towards the east, crossing a small, shallow but rapid stream on the other side of a bare hill and entering a hilly wood three miles wide with 'an almost impenetrable thicket'. Emerging from the wood at 5pm, attempting to find a feeding place for the horses. Torrential rain beginning before setting up the camp. Cooking the last of the deer flesh, eating it with a few ounces of boiled rice: 'lest I should not see any Indians, I cannot afford but one meal a day'. Seeing a species of Vitis on rocks and trees, the first seen to the west of the Rocky Mountains ('leaves partially 5-lobed, smooth, slightly serrated. Wood slender with white bark. Destitute of fruit'). Having covered 17 miles on foot that day

(25 Oct 1826) Wednesday. 'Last night was one of the most dreadful I ever witnessed'. Being unable to keep a fire due to the rain, his tent being blown down by the violent winds, after which 'I lay among Pteris aquilina [Pteridium aquilinium], rolled in my wet blanket and tent till morning. Sleep of course was not had', with trees crashing down, thunder and lightning. The horses being afraid, hanging their heads over Douglas, neighing. The storm abating before dawn. Feeling cold. Having to light a fire and dry his drenched clothing, 'indulging myself with a fume of tobacco being the only thing I could afford'

Setting off at 10am, shivering with cold, despite rubbing himself with his handkerchief in front of the fire. Being seized with a severe headache, stomach pain, giddiness and trouble with his sight. Having no medicine left apart from a few grains of calomel [mercury chloride used as a purgative], 'I threw myself into a violent perspiration, and in the evening felt a little relieved'

Proceeding 13 miles over open, hilly country. Crossing the river near some Indian lodges. Being given salmon, 'at this season scarcely eatable, but I was thankful to obtain it'. Staying for a short time and continuing southwards towards a mountain ridge, hoping to find 'my pine [sugar pine]'. Camping in the early afternoon to dry the rest of his clothes, having travelled 18 miles that day

(26 Oct 1826) Thursday. Dull and cloudy. 'When my people in England are made acquainted with my travels, they may perhaps think I have told them nothing but my miseries. That may be very correct, but I now know that such objects as I am in quest of, are not obtained without a share of labour, anxiety of mind, and sometimes risk of personal safety'. Setting off at dawn for an excursion, leaving the guide to care for the camp and the horses. Finding on his return in the evening 'everything as I wished', including his wet papers dried

Meeting an Indian after about an hour's walk, 'who on discovering me, strung his bow and placed on his left arm a sleeve of raccoon skin, and stood ready on the defence. As I was well convinced this was prompted through fear, never before [having] seen such a being [as Douglas], I laid my gun at my feet on the ground, and waved my hand for him to come to me'. Asking the man to place his bow and quiver next to the gun, giving him a smoke and some beads. Making a rough pencil sketch of the cone and pine he was looking for, the man pointing at the hills 15-20 miles to the south: 'as I wanted to go in that direction, he seemingly with much good-will went with me'

Finding the 'long-wished for' Pinus [annotated at the top of the page: 'called by the Umpqua tribe natcle[?] [sugar pine]'], examining it and collecting specimens and seeds [a description of the tree was published in the 'Transactions of the Linnean Society', volume 15, 1827, pages 497-500 'An account of a new species of Pinus, native of California: in a letter to Joseph Sabine, esq., F.R. and L.S., secretary of the Horticultural Society. By Mr David Douglas, A.L.S. Communicated by Mr Sabine. Read November 6, 1827']. 'Lest I should never see my friends to tell them verbally of this most beautiful and immensely large tree, I now state the dimensions of the largest one I could find that was blown down by the wind' [here the journal includes a small drawing of the tree], being 57 feet and nine inches in circumference three feet from the ground and 215 feet in length, the trunk 'remarkably' straight, with smooth, whitish or light-brown bark, yielding large quantities of amber-coloured gum and largely without branches. The branches at the top being pendulous, the cones 'hanging from their points like small sugar loaves in a grocer's shop'. Being able to collect only three cones, which 'nearly brought my life to an end'. Shooting at the branches, being unable to climb the trees or to cut them, but the gun shots bringing eight Indians, 'all painted with red earth, armed with bows, arrows, spears of bone and flint knives, and seemed to me anything but friendly'. Attempting to explain what he was doing, the men sitting down to smoke, 'but had no sooner done so, than I perceived one string his bow and another sharpen his flint knife with a pair of wooden pincers, and hang it on the wrist of the right hand, [which] gave me ample testimony of their inclination'. Determined to stand up for himself, Douglas cocking his gun and pulling one of his pistols from his belt, holding it in his left hand: 'as I as much as possible endeavoured to preserve my coolness and perhaps did so, I stood 8 or 10 minutes looking at them and they at me without a word passing, till one at last, who seemed to be the leader, made a sign for tobacco, which I said they should get on condition of going and fetching me some cones'. Douglas picking up his three cones 'and a few twigs', and hastily retreating to his camp, reaching it at dusk. Sending his new guide away, worried he would be betrayed. [Annotated in the margin: 'wood of the pine fine and very heavy']. The leaves short, 'in 5, with a very short sheath, bright green', the cones 14 1/2 inches long with fine seeds. The cones being collected by the Indians, roasted on the embers, cut and the seeds shaken out, dried by the fire and pounded into a flour

'How irksome a night is to such a one as me under my circumstances! Cannot speak a word to my guide, not a book to read, constantly in expectation of an attack, and the position I am now in is lying on the grass with my gun beside me, writing by the light of my Columbian candle, namely a piece of wood containing rosin'

(27 Oct 1826) Friday. Roasting a small trout for breakfast, brought back by the 'last guide', who had gone out at midnight to fish. The guide returning two hours before dawn, shrieking. Douglas thinking the Indians from the previous day had found them, but learning that the guide had been attacked by a large grizzly bear: 'I signed to him to wait for day, and perhaps I would go and kill it. A little before day, bruin had the boldness to pay me a visit, accompanied by two whelps, one of last year's and one of this. As I could not consistently with my safety receive them so early in the morning, I waited [for] daylight'. Packing up his belongings in the saddle-bags, and sending the horse a mile from the camp. Riding back on the other horse, and finding the bears feeding on acorns under a large oak: 'I levelled my gun at the heart of the mother, but as she was protecting one of the young, keeping them right before her, and one standing before her belly, my ball entered the palate of the young one, and came out at the back part of the head. It dropped instantly, and as the mother stood up a second time, I lodged a ball in her chest, which on receiving she abandoned the remaining live young, and fled to an adjoining hummock of wood. The wound was mortal, as they never leave their young until ready to sink'. Giving the carcass of the young bear to his guide, 'who seemed to lay great store by it'. Returning and crossing the river two miles further down. Camping for the night in a wood near a small stream. Heavy rain all day

(28-29 Oct 1826) Saturday-Sunday. Having difficulties staying dry in the rain, and trying hard to reach the coast. Having to lead the tired horse on the increasingly difficult roads. Camping on Saturday evening at his second crossing place, but being unable to obtain any food from the Indians, who were unable to fish due to the bad weather. Boiling the last of his rice for supper and eating it without salt or anything else

Continuing the journey at dawn on Sunday, proceeding 'prosperously' until one of the horses fell down a woody hill: the horse 'would have been inevitably dashed to pieces in the river, had he not been arrested by being wedged fast between two large trees that were lying across the hill'. Tying the horse's legs and head close to the ground to keep it still, cutting it free with a hatchet. Douglas feeling bad, although the horse was not badly injured, having been given it by John McLoughlin, 'and it was his favourite horse'. Reaching the camp at the coast at dusk. Finding Mr Michel Laframboise [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader and interpreter], 'the Cheenook [Chinookan] interpreter' and an Indian boy. Being told that 'the Indians had been troublesome' after the hunters leaving on Monday. Laframboise helping Douglas to pitch his tent, giving him 'a little weak spirit and water' and a refreshing pot of tea. Heavy rain during the night

(30 Oct 1826) Several armed Indians seen around the camp: 'of course instead of sleep, we had to make a large fire, leave the camp a little distance, [and] hide in the grass to watch'. Before dawn, a party of 15 passing them: 'we immediately fired blank shot and scared them'. Returning to the camp for a breakfast of tea and a little dried salmon. Sitting in his tent all day with a fire on the doorway, not having anything dry to wear

(31 Oct 1826) Tuesday. Heavy showers with a south-westerly wind from the ocean. Cold and raw. Bringing in wood for fuel and branches of pine and Pteris aquilina [Pteridium aquilinium] for bedding. An Indian guide returning at noon from an expedition with two hunters to a small lake 20-30 miles south-east, bringing 'on his back one of their coats, and had in his possession some of the hunting implements, and looked altogether very suspicious. For the present, as we do not understand their language, we pay no attention. Perhaps he has stolen, and not murdered them'. Keeping up their watch, and nothing happening during the night. Feeling tired and weak

(1 Nov 1826) Wednesday. Heavy rain until the afternoon. Jean Baptiste McKay returning from the coast, saying he had hardly ever experienced such bad weather. Being relieved by McKay joining their small party to strengthen it, hoping he would procure fresh food. A cloudy evening

(2 Nov 1826) Thursday. Jean Baptiste McKay killing a large female long-tailed deer [white-tailed deer], bringing it back on his horse at noon: 'I was glad to stand cook, and ere 4pm I had a large kettle of fine rice soup made'. About to sit down to eat, 13 of the hunters appearing in five canoes and being invited to eat. Having a pleasant evening: 'although the society at many times uncouth, yet to have a visage of one's own colour is pleasing'. The hunters telling stories of their trip: 'I find [I] myself stand high among them as a marksman, and passable as a hunter'

(3 Nov 1826) Friday. Setting off early in the morning and travelling 12 miles down the river, hoping to find Alexander McLeod. The riverbanks steep and rocky, densely wooded with pine. The river 700-800 yards wide at its lowest section, the tide flowing 27 miles up the river, the water rising four feet 15 miles from the sea. Returning at 6pm. Heavy rain all day

Finding an evergreen shrub 4-10 feet high growing abundantly in rocky places, with ripe fruit, the round, slightly pointed berries in a thick, long raceme, '2-seeded in a soft blood-red pulpy juice', with hard, brittle, pubescent skin, opposite, entire leaves, pubescent underneath, short, ovate, smooth petiole and hard and brittle wood, the bark whitish. Hearing the shrub was plentiful to the north ('in the country inhabited by the Killimuck [Tillamook, also known as Nehalem] Indians') and to the south, but the berries were not edible. Collecting seeds and twigs of Vaccinium ovatum, growing abundantly with small, jet black berries in clusters at the end of the branches, with 'thin, watery, bloody juice, but exceedingly pleasant acid'. Not finding Castanea or Ilex dahoon [Ilex cassine]. At a small village of seven or eight lodges 19 miles from the sea, being given large, light blue berries of a species of Vaccinium, with hardly any acid but containing thick blue jelly. The shrub growing on the mountains, but being unable to find out anything else about it

(4 Nov 1826) Saturday. Alexander McLeod returning from his travels the previous night, saying the Umpqua River was not suitable for shipping, being less than a mile wide at its mouth, with a shallow sand bar and broken water during the tide. McLeod having found another river of about the same size 23 miles further down the coast, with salmon and salmon trout and several bays at its mouth. The country less mountainous. Travelling in a canoe 20 miles further south, McLeod having found a third river, a little smaller, but Indian accounts suggesting it came a long way from the interior: 'here for the present his expedition stops, until he has his party all forward'. The Indians having told him of another large stream falling into the sea about 60 miles further south: 'one of his linguists, who has seen the Columbia [Columbia River] and the new river, says it is much larger than it'. The country being very different from that near the Columbia River, with no Pinus, the 'fine-smelling tree' [?Umbellularia californica] growing plentifully instead on the riverbanks and the mountains, some measuring 12 feet around and 70-100 feet high: 'the lightest breath of wind to stir the leaves sends a fragrance through the whole grove'. The natives having never seen 'such people as we are, […] viewed him [McLeod] narrowly and with much curiosity, but [were] hospitable and kind in the extreme', kindling his fire, assisting him in setting up his camp, pleased 'beyond measure' on receiving beads, rings or buttons ('in fact the smallest trifle of European manufacture') for their services. Their houses and clothing similar to those around the present neighbourhood

Douglas deciding to return with two of McLeod's men, leaving for Fort Vancouver with a despatch on Monday, the rainy season having set in and opportunities for communication being few before 1 Mar, his intended date to travel across the continent: 'I shall retain a grateful recollection of the kindness and assistance I have uniformly had from this gentleman (recollect on your arrival in London to get him a good rifle gun as a present)'

(5 Nov 1826) Sunday. A dull and cloudy morning, heavy rain during the day. Tying up his 'little parcels' in bear skin to preserve them from the rain

(6 Nov 1826) Monday. Heavy rain in the morning, with a strong westerly wind all day

(7 Nov 1826) Tuesday. Torrential rain during the night. Deciding to leave, not being able to count on the arrival of good weather. Setting off at 10am with John Kennedy ('an Irishman') and Fannaux ('a Canadian'), and nine horses. Alexander McLeod expressing regret at seeing Douglas leave him with only a few dried salmon trout purchased from the Indians and a little Indian corn [flint corn] and rice mixed together, brought from Fort Vancouver: 'in all, a week's food for two persons'. Hoping to find plenty of wild fowl or deer. Having to use three small canoes to carry their belongings up the river, the rains having rendered the high hill impassable for horses with baggage. Camping 12 miles up the river near two Indian lodges. Being given some salmon trout. A fine and fair evening, with clear moonlight, giving them an opportunity for drying their clothing

(8 Nov 1826) Wednesday. A cold and chilly night, and foggy morning. Going on an unsuccessful hunt before dawn. Waiting for the canoes until 12pm. Catching and loading the horses, and continuing the journey. Being irked by the lacing on the saddle bags slackening, having to be tightened every 300-400 yards. Passing their first encampment on the Umpqua River at 2pm and picking up the deer horns and wood specimens left there three weeks ago. Camping on a small circular plain by the wooded hill, 10 miles from the river. The horses tired and having almost no grass to eat. Not having managed to catch anything, therefore eating only one meal a day. One of Jean Baptiste McKay's dogs coming to the camp around midnight [from the other encampment]: 'I found him in the morning at his accustomed place, asleep at my feet'. Taking him along with them to wait for his owner

(9 Nov 1826) Thursday. Finding the River la Bische [Hood River, Oregon] unfordable, having been only four or five feet deep on the outward journey. Having to make a new path on a slippery hill through an 'immense quantity' of low brushwood: 'several of the horses were so reduced and weak, that we apprehended we should be under the necessity of leaving them', including both of Douglas's horses, despite their powerful appearance and light baggage, the other one carrying only 45lbs with his collections and blanket. Walking for six hours over the hill. Camping at the low plains in the encampment of 13 Oct. A fine, dry and clear day, heavy dew at night. The men proposing a supper of soup made of pounded camass, or the roots of Phalangium quamash [Camassia quamash], and having made it, pronouncing it 'very fine', but Douglas becoming sick due to its 'sweet sickening taste, together with the exertion I had made during the day'. Not sleeping all night. Seeing several deer, but not managing to shoot them

(10 Nov 1826) Being up long before dawn, 'anxiously wishing for the morning, and certainly wished for a little tea, the greatest and best of comforts after hard labour'. His horses being so weak, John Kennedy giving him one of his own horses to ride, and Fannaux placing Douglas's belongings on one of his horses to allow Douglas's horses to rest. Heavy dew at night, an overcast morning and torrential rain all day. Crossing the second hill 'hard labour', despite it not being as high or difficult as the previous day's hill. Seeing nothing new, having travelled the same way earlier. Only managing to kill one goose. Feeling anxious to reach the camp they had stayed at on 7 Oct, it being the nearest good place for feeding the horses. Attempting to find it in the dark, going off the path and having to camp by a small brook in the torrential rain. Pitching the tent with 'great difficulty', and being unable to light a fire: 'we soon crept below our blankets for the night'

(11 Nov 1826) Saturday. After lying down to sleep the previous night, the men quarrelling about the correct route: 'all tenacious of our opinions [...] The fact plainly this: all hungry and no means of cooking a little of our stock, travelled 33 miles, drenched and bleached with rain and sleet, chilled with a piercing north wind, and then, to finish the day, experienced the cooling, comfortless consolation of lying down wet, without supper or fire. On such occasions I am very liable to become fretful'

Agreeing to go to a small lake seven miles away, hoping to find wild fowl and a resting place for the horses. Douglas setting off at dawn on foot, leaving the men to bring the horses. Having walked for three miles, realising that he was off track. Without a compass in the rain, returning to the camp, but finding his companions gone, 'but by which course, I could not say'. Finding the camp of 7 Oct and continuing the same route. Meeting John Kennedy at midday, searching for Douglas, not having found him by the lake as agreed. At 4pm Douglas going to hunt for wild fowl on a plain three miles from the camp and sending Kennedy back to the camp: 'we did not part without my getting strict caution about going astray a second time'. Having caught three geese and one duck by 6pm, seeing a large flock on his return journey: 'I laid down my hunt [game], gun-slip and hat to approach them, and after securing one, returned in search of my articles, but was unsuccessful in finding them, although I devoted 2 hours to it'

Continuing to the camp, but finding it in the dark only with the help of his companions' gun signals. Managing to kill another duck flying overhead: 'I was hailed to the camp with 'Be seated at the fire, sir', and then laughed at for losing myself in the morning, my game and other property in the evening. There is a curious feeling among voyageurs. One who complains of hunger, or indeed of hardship of any description, things that in any other country would be termed extreme misery, is hooted and brow-beaten by the whole party as a pork-eater or a young voyageur, as they term it, and although in many instances I have observed they will endure much privation through laziness, and not unfrequently as bravado, to have it said of them they did so-and-so, I found in this instance my men very willing to cook the fowls, and still less averse to eating them'. Heavy rain

(12 Nov 1826) Sunday. Heavy rain with a strong westerly wind all night. Managing to find the items lost the previous evening, with 'an additional goose' nearby, having killed it without knowing: 'today could afford myself and people breakfast!!'. Continuing the journey. Passing the Longtabuff River [Long Tom River, Oregon] at 2pm, flowing into the Multnomah [Multnomah Channel]. Deciding to leave the old track in favour of a more northerly route along the west bank of the river, intending to cross the Multmomah River 150 miles above their old camp. Douglas killing seven geese and Kennedy killing two, providing them with plenty of food. Camping by a small lake with abundant wild fowl. The country open, rich, level and beautiful. The day's journey amounting to 34 miles in frequent hail and rain showers

(13 Nov 1826) Monday. Four geese killed the previous night 'by random shots' on the lake. The gunshots and smoke attracting 'several Indians [...] belonging to the Calapooia [Kalapuya] tribe', hungry and asking for food: 'I was glad in being able to relieve them, and as none of us knew the way, one of them undertook to guide us to the crossing place, and to procure for us a canoe at the same time'. Douglas's horses unable to proceed further, leaving them with the Indians to wait for 'the men [the hunters]'. The river being deep and rapid, about 150 yards wide at the crossing place. Taking two hours to cross with the horses and belongings. Continuing the journey over an extensive plain with narrow belts of wood and groups of low oaks, with deep, rich, alluvial soil on clay and gravel. Reaching a small stream flowing west to the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel], its deep banks densely covered with alder, poplar, ash and willow. Not being able to find a crossing place. Camping on the south bank. Drizzly rain, cloudy and dull

(14 Nov 1826) Tuesday. Two Indians 'fortunately' coming to the camp in the morning, saying they could cross the river on a fallen tree and showing them a place for the horses to swim over. Continuing the journey and camping at dusk near a small rivulet with a fine white sandstone bottom, near a 'channel of a river of large dimensions'. Rain all day

(15 Nov 1826) Wednesday. Light rain. Leaving the camp on foot at dawn to search for game. Finding the village at the large Sandiam River [Santiam River, Oregon] deserted, with no canoes. Not wanting to make a raft, being unable to guide it through the rapid currents. Finding a place to swim across: 'the men chose to swim on their horses, I alone'. Fannaux, in spurring his horse, hurling down into the water with the horse, but managing to free himself from the stirrups, 'and of course had to adopt my plan of swimming alone'. Douglas's clothing, bedding and ('what gave me most pain') his collections being drenched. Finding an Indian village two miles further down, with plenty of canoes. Camping at 3pm, and spending all evening drying his collection and clothing. Killing no game. Distance covered that day about 18 miles in the wet and cold, causing his ankles to be swollen, painful and stiff

(16 Nov 1826) Thursday. Hoping to reach their old camp on the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel], but getting lost. Keeping to the riverbank, being unfamiliar with the country. Meeting Tochty 'or Pretty, one of the Callapooie [Kalapuya] chiefs' at 2pm and being sent in the right direction, with a promise of canoes on the Multnomah, a few miles above Tochty's house. 'Our horses failing us, we had to camp 10 miles from the place where we were to leave them'. Frost in the morning

(17 Nov 1826) Friday. A cold morning. Setting off shortly before the men to hunt for deer, having nothing to eat. Seeing several, but being unable to get near enough to shoot them due to the 'crisping noise among the frozen grass'. Finding two Calapooia [Kalapuya] lodges, 'where I was kindly treated by the inmates. The only article in the way of animal food was a small piece of the rump of long-tailed deer [?white-tailed deer], which the good woman, on seeing I stood in need of food, had without loss of time cooked for me. The greater part of it was only the bare vertebrae, which she pounded with two stones, and placed it in a basket-work kettle among water, and steamed it by throwing red hot stones in it, and covering it over with a close mat until done'. Having a 'good breakfast' of it, along with a few hard nuts and roots of Phalangium quamash [Camassia quamash]. Paying for the food with shots, shot powder and a few beads. Continuing the journey towards the old camp on the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel], five miles away

Arriving at 1pm, finding the men and the horses there. Looking for a canoe, intending to continue the journey by water. One of the men going a few miles up the river to an Indian village, and Douglas going down the river to search for Etienne Lucien, 'one of the Canadian hunters', having heard he was camping seven miles downstream. Not finding him, but killing a large buck, bringing half of it back to the camp and hanging the other half on a small tree, out of the reach of wolves, 'lest we should stand in need, if not, to give it to some poor Indian'. Fannaux returning at 9pm, not having found a canoe. An overcast day with light rain

(18 Nov 1826) Saturday. An old woman and her son coming to the camp, saying that Etienne Lucien's family was at the salmon fishing place at the falls, 25 miles away. Persuading the woman to lend her small canoe for one of the men to go and obtain a larger one for the party. Douglas and his companions embarking in the new canoe around midday, arriving at their destination in the evening. Finding Mr James Birnie [clerk at Hudson's Bay Company] and B. La Zand, 'the Columbian guide', with a party of six men on their way to Umpqua River. Being given a 'comfortable supper' of venison steaks, potatoes and tea: 'having had no tea for some time before, it prevented me from sleeping'

(19 Nov 1826) Sunday. Setting off in a boat at 4am with the guide and seven men. Arriving at Fort Vancouver 'by a hard day's work' at 8pm, having been away from there for two months

(20 Nov 1826) Monday. Receiving 'by express' across the continent [York Factory Express or Columbia Express, Hudson's Bay Company annual fur brigade transporting supplies and despatches between Hudson Bay, Manitoba, Canada and Fort Vancouver in Washington] letters from Joseph Sabine, dated 20 Feb [for the letter from Joseph Sabine to David Douglas, 20 Feb 1826, see RHS/Col/5/2/2/2], Stewart Murray of Glasgow and his brother [John Douglas]

Being welcomed by Mr Simpson [Aemilius Simpson, British Royal Navy lieutenant, employed by his cousin, Hudson Bay Company governor George Simpson, to survey the route of the York Factory Express], and Mr McMillan, 'one of the resident partners of the fur company' [James McMillan, chief trader at Hudson's Bay Company]. Receiving a 'very punctual note' from Mr J.G. McTavish, the chief factor at York Factory in Hudson's Bay [John George McTavish, chief factor of Hudson's Bay Company at York Factory], acknowledging the arrival of Douglas's tin box of seeds sent last spring by Mr McLeod [?John McLeod], saying it would be sent to England by the next ship. Learning that the box of collections from the summer, left at Kettle Falls in August had not been sent to Hudson's Bay. Spending the day drying seeds, paper and clothing

(21-30 Nov 1826) Having to remain indoors for nine days due to swollen and painful ankles, 'from fatigue and constant exposure to the rain and cold'. Arranging and drying plants and seeds and making a small packaging box. Repairing shoes. The weather mild, but rainy and cloudy with westerly winds

(1-8 Dec 1826) Collecting woods and some cryptogamic plants in the forests

(9-25 Dec 1826) Deciding to visit the coast to collect Fuci [Fucus], shells and other things, 'my time lying heavy on my hands'. Hiring a canoe from trading Cheenooks [Chinook] and setting off with one of John McLoughlin's men and two Indians. After two days' journey, staying at Fort George [Hudson Bay Company's trading post on the Columbia River prior to the building of Fort Vancouver] to wait for the winds to abate before crossing the river to the north side. A strong south-westerly gale and torrential rain: 'one of the most dreadful nights I ever witnessed'. Being woken up at midnight by the surf breaking, driftwood crashing and the sea rising, dashing Douglas's canoe to pieces. Having to take down his tent and retreat into the woods

In the morning visiting Cassicass, son of Chief Comcomly [chief of the Chinook confederacy], to borrow a canoe. Crossing Baker's Bay [Baker Bay, Washington] and the portage over Cape Disappointment [Washington], reaching the bays near Cape Shoalwater of Vancouver [Washington] after two days' march in the rain

Reaching the house of his 'old Indian friend', Cockqua [Lower Chehalis chief] after another days' journey, and being received 'with that hospitality, for which he is justly noted by people of the establishment and his countrymen'. Cockqua apologising for offering only dried salmon and berries of Gaultheria shallon, the weather having driven wildfowls from the area, and the sea being too rough for fishing. The salmon being 'very bad' and lean, having been killed in the spawning season in the autumn, resembling rotten dry pine bark when dried: 'having nothing but it to subsist on, I was seized with a most violent diarrhoea, which reduced me in 4 days unable to walk'. With the weather showing no signs of improving, and being worried about having dysentery, Douglas deciding to return, 'having obtained one duck to make a little broth'

After three days' journey, reaching the village of Oak Point. Ten sturgeons had been caught that day, but Douglas was asked for his hatchet or coat as payment: 'being neither willing, nor could [I] encourage such on principle, I declined bargaining'. His offers of tobacco, [gun] powder and shots and his knife instead being refused: 'but as I was a good chief and liked them, they would let me have it, if I would give the handkerchief from my neck for one small bit, and 7 buttons off my coat for a second bit of the same size, which I did! I have heard of people put to many shifts to live, but never in my life was I in such a hard case of bargain-making. He had my blessing, and promise of a sound flogging, should I ever meet him in a convenient place'. Sleeping half a mile from the village. Continuing the journey early the following morning

Going on shore below the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel] to wait for the tide. Travelling all night, arriving at Fort Vancouver on Christmas Day, 'having gleaned, like my trip in the same quarter last year, less than [on] any journey I have had in the country'. Collecting one specimen of Pinus ('a low, scrubby, small tree, on marshy ground. Rare'), Ledum latifolium [identification unresolved as at Sep 2018], a species of Kalmia, Vaccinium, Oxycoccus ('on low marshy ground') and some mosses

(26-31 Dec 1826) Dry and pleasant weather, with a northerly wind and some frost. Going out occasionally to hunt and collect woods and mosses. Having the blacksmith make a 'mineral hammer', having left his other one behind. Recovering from his sickness 'by a change of food'

(1 Jan 1827) A dull but dry morning: 'the new year was ushered in by a discharge of the great guns at daybreak'. Being satisfied with his day, having gone for a ride with his gun after breakfast, returning at dusk for dinner. 'The evening, like many I have passed in NW America, lay heavy on my hands'

(2-31 Jan 1827) Heavy rain and sleet with a south-easterly wind and frost on 5 Jan. Temperature 10°. 18 inches to two feet of snow on 7-9 Jan: 'the forest presents a most dismal appearance, the immense pines loaded with snow, and their wide, spreading branches breaking under their load'. Being frustrated by not being able to go out, the snow being too soft to walk on with snowshoes. From 22 Jan, the snow thawing during the day, with showers of hail and rain. Spending time copying 'some notes of the Cheenook [Chinook] tribe of Indians'

(1-28 Feb 1827) Thursday-Wednesday. More snow on 10 Feb, thawing on 25 Feb. Rainy and windy. Killing a very large vulture, and obtaining information about it from Etienne Lucien, 'one of the hunters, who has had ample opportunity of observing them'. The birds building their nests of dead sticks and grass in pine trees, deep in the impenetrable parts of the forest, having only two young at a time, their eggs very large, circular and jet black in colour. The vultures seen in large numbers during the summer on the Columbia River, from the ocean to the mountains of Lewis and Clarke's River [Lewis and Clark River], 400 miles away, possibly migrating south in the winter, Douglas having seen them himself on the Umpqua River, and Alexander McLeod having seen them further south. The birds feeding on 'all putrid animal matter, and are so ravenous, that they will eat until they are unable to fly', and are difficult to shoot due to their shyness, but easy to catch with a steel trap. The birds flying swiftly and steadily, rarely moving their wings. Their colouring blackish-brown with a little white under the wing, a deep orange head, sulphur-yellow beak and yellowish-brown neck: 'I have never heard them call, except when fighting about food, when they jump trailing their wings on the ground, crying 'crup cra-a', something like a common crow'. Heavy rains

(1-9 Mar 1827) Thursday-Friday. Going to the sea for a week with Edward Ermatinger on 2 Mar, intending to 'procure the little animal, which forms their robe' [for an earlier reference to this species of fox used by the Kalapuya tribe, see the journal of David Douglas on 2 Jan-1 Mar 1824, RHS/Col/5/2/1/1]. Being unsuccessful, due to the death of one of the 'principal men of the village', Cockqua's cousin, the night before Douglas's arrival: 'on such occasions it is extremely difficult to get them to do anything'. Being promised the animals would be brought to the establishment later. Heavy rains with light westerly winds

(10-19 Mar 1827) Learning that his journey across the continent was due to start on 20 Mar. Packing collections to send to England on the first ship. Making a tin box for as many seeds as he expected to be able to carry on his back across the mountains: 'in this will go my journals'. Packing three boxes by 17 Mar, leaving room in one of them for the plants that were due to be sent down in the autumn, with promises from John McLoughlin to have more made if necessary. Preparing his 'very small clothing', paying his debts 'and received a copy of the account'. The weather remaining fine until 17 Mar

Alexander McLeod ('my old friend') and his party returning from the south, having been forced to abandon their journey due to the heavy rains. Being told of several streams running into the ocean [south of the Umpqua River], 'but the famous river so much spoken of by natives for its size is by no means so large as represented', being about 300 yards wide, deep and clean, with rocky banks, navigable for small vessels 30 miles from the sea. The party having 'found the natives hostile, one of his party [was] killed by them'

(20 Mar 1827) Tuesday. Showers. Preparations being made for the annual express journey across the continent. Leaving Fort Vancouver at 5pm with Edward Ermatinger for Hudson's Bay [Hudson Bay, Manitoba, Canada], while John McLoughlin, Alexander McLeod, Francis Annance and Pierre-Chrysologue Pambrun headed towards the interior of the country. Being seen off by 'the few remaining individuals, who constituted my little society during the winter'. Being glad to be heading towards England. Being grateful for the assistance and hospitality of the people at Fort Vancouver, McLoughlin in particular. Camping at sunset four miles away

(21 Mar 1827) Wednesday. A cold and raw morning. Setting off at 4am and stopping for breakfast at 9am on Point Vancouver. Camping 'on the Cascade portage [Bonneville Dam, previously Cascades Rapids, Columbia River, Washington]' at dusk. Purchasing a fine salmon trout weighing 15lbs. Drizzly rain, nothing in particular occurring

(22 Mar 1827) Thursday. Heavy rain in the morning with showers until noon. Crossing the portage and stopping for breakfast at 10am. Camping halfway between Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids] and the Dalles [Great Falls, or Celilo Falls] on a sandy bluff. A strong wind at night

(23 Mar 1827) Friday. A cloudy and cool morning, followed by a clear and pleasant day. Breakfasting at Thomson's portage [Thomson's Rapids]. Collecting several species of Umbellifera in blossom, Lilium pudicum [Fritillaria pudica] and Crucifera ('[annual], seed-vessel nearly orbicular, 3 to 4-seeded, maculate on one side. Leaves radical, hastate, smooth. Flowers faint white and red. On moist ground, near springs. Rare'), the only plant not seen previously. Reaching Lower Dalles at 3pm and Upper Dalles [Great Falls, or Celilo Falls] at 5pm. Camping on a gravelly beach by the river, 'lest we should be annoyed by the Indians on the Falls'. Purchasing wood for boiling the kettle. Keeping watch all night

(24 Mar 1827) Saturday. Setting off at 5am. Stopping for breakfast at the falls at 9am, and having the boat gummed and repaired ('being slightly injured'). One of the boats being returned to Fort Vancouver. Some of the party continuing the journey on foot, not being able to find horses, including Mr McLoughlin [John McLoughlin], Mr McLeod [Alexander McLeod]. Mr Pambrun [Pierre-Chrysologue Pambrun] and Douglas following them for a while, but embarking on the boat at 1pm, 'as the road was bad, and unable to keep pace with the boat'. Meeting the people who had left by foot in the morning, saying they had been promised horses by Indians living 12 miles above the falls

Camping seven miles above Day's River [John Day River]. Being joined by their friends who had walked all day. Overy, a servant, having waited to bring the horses, returning after dark, 'having in his hand 8 or 10 broken arrows, which he wrested from an Indian, who threatened to put one through him, if he did not allow himself to be pillaged. He might have laid him dead on the spot, but prudently chose to allow him to walk away, being rewarded previously with a heavy flogging and deprived of his bow and arrows'. Receiving five horses, with the owner agreeing to go to Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces]. A strong south-westerly wind at night

(25 Mar 1827) Sunday. The Indian employed the previous night changing his mind: 'he got a comfortable supper and a whiff of the pipe, which perhaps was all he wanted'. Three of the party walking and three going by boat until 9am, then changing over. A windy morning. Seeing many butterflies and swallows. Camping nine miles 'below the big island' [?Blalock Islands, Oregon and Washington]

(26 Mar 1827) Monday. Crossing a point of land on foot at dawn, meeting the boat at 9am by the island for breakfast. Travelling by boat for the rest of the day. Stopping at 2pm and discovering John McLoughlin had left his gun at the other end of the island: 'being loath to lose it, having some celebrity attached to it (Sir Alexander McKenzie [Alexander Mackenzie, also known as Alasdair MacCoinnich, explored Mackenzie River, later named in his honour, in 1789, and Peace River in 1792-93] used it on both his former journeys), Overy, another Canadian and an Indian were despatched for it'. Waiting for their return. Seeing nothing new, but observing two abundant species of Cactus being used as food, baked similarly to Phalangium [Camassia]. Purchasing some horseflesh to dine on. High winds at night. Keeping watch and cooking, using the kettle, with Alexander McLeod

(27 Mar 1827) Tuesday. Dupond ('the Canadian') returning at dawn, saying that Indians had taken the gun, with Overy following them. Hiring 'with difficulty' four horses from a Kyuse [Cayuse] Indian at 11am to continue the journey, leaving one of them for Overy to follow. Walking along the riverbanks, but not finding anything new. Killing a grouse: 'although not so large nor well plumed as many I have seen, I could not help skinning it, lest I should not get a better one', its gizzard large but smooth, its windpipe large and very strong: 'their voices I cannot learn'. Seeing two others, but not managing to catch them. Camping on an island seven miles below Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces]

(28 Mar 1827) Wednesday. Setting off at 5am, reaching Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces] at 11am. Finding the men with horses had arrived the night before. Staying until 3pm, to arrange plants and 'put my grouse in order'. Camping three miles below Lewis and Clarke's River [Lewis and Clark River]. A fine evening

(29 Mar 1827) Thursday. A dull and heavy morning. Seeing a large flock of grouse rising from the riverbanks, but being unable to shoot them from the boat. Seeing them in groups of eight or ten 'dancing, most likely holding their weddings'. The vegetation later than the previous year, Lilium pudicum [Fritillaria pudica] being the only plant in flower on the plains. The Blue Mountains ('where I was last year') covered in snow. Strong south-westerly winds. Camping 'above the commencement of the clayey hills'

(30 Mar 1827) Friday. Heavy rain. Walking all day: 'nothing worthy of notice occurred'. Seeing three guns, but being unable to shoot them with wet guns. Camping 15 miles below Priest Rapids. Having painful feet from walking on gravel and shattered rocks, 'having nothing but shoes of deerskin, dressed, that is, the hair off and smoked with rotten wood'. Finding a fine camping place with plenty of firewood, enabling them to dry their clothing

(31 Mar 1827) Saturday. A fine and pleasant morning. Crossing the river to low gravelly grounds below the rapid, thickly covered with Tigarea [Purshia] and Artemisia, with 'clouds of grouse' flying overhead. The grouse appearing more shy than in the autumn, dancing again in groups, the males spreading their tails like fans, puffing up their breast feathers, and 'like the pigeon, singing their song, which I listened to with much pleasure. The voice is 'hurr-r-r-r, hoo, hurr-r-r-r, hoo', a very hollow, deep, melancholy sound'. The female call resembling the common pheasant ('cack-cack-cack') when rising from the ground. The grouse flesh fine, but not as white as 'many others'. Both Douglas and Alexander McLeod killing two cocks, but injuring them all too much to preserve them. Archibald McDonald from Thomson's River [Thompson's River Post, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Kamloops, British Columbia, Canada] accompanying them to Okanagan [Fort Okanogan]. Baptist Latand, their guide, having never seen the river as low. Having difficulties in dragging the boat over the shallow rocks. Douglas in the meanwhile collecting plants, finding a species of Allium ('2 to 6 inches high, pink and white flowered, in gravelly and rocky places') and shooting birds, including a hen pheasant ('which I shall skin tomorrow') and curlews. Camping part way down the rapid at dusk. Not being able to keep up the fire during the night due to the strong wind

(1 Apr 1827) Sunday. Skinning the pheasant. Stopping for breakfast after the rapids. Walking until dusk. Taking samples of steep rocks formed of marble and granite, and 'as no plants came under my notice, picked up a few minerals'. Camping 17 miles above the rapids on the south side of the river

(2-5 Apr 1827) Monday-Thursday. The country more mountainous and covered with snow, with little vegetation visible. Collecting curious minerals: 'found some very fine pebbles'. Arriving at Okanagan [Fort Okanogan] on Thursday

(6 Apr 1827) Friday. Fine, clear and pleasant. Embarking on the boat alone at 2pm 'to go round the big bend, a day and a half's journey', his feet being very painful and blistered after walking for 11 days. Parting with Archibald McDonald, having received 'much information, assistance and hospitality'. Camping 14 miles from the establishment. Having intended to leave his grouses there, 'but not being perfectly dry, I was afraid they would fall prey to insects'

(7 Apr 1827) Passing the dalles at midday: 'a dangerous part of the river during the time of high water', with trees three feet in diameter lying on the rocks, 43 feet above the present water level and a very strong current. Killing some ducks. Camping 'at the Big Stone, or more properly a natural column', 30 feet high and 900 feet in circumference, composed of trap, clink, lime and gravel, common over the country, with some octagonal, hexagonal or circular in shape, and some composed only of trap rock with iron. The overland party with Edward Ermatinger returning worried to look for Douglas: 'they rode down to my camp and roused me from a sound sleep at half-past nine. Supper was made then, and we laid down at 11. Had good jokes at losing the way'

(8-12 Apr 1827) Sunday-Thursday. Seeing nothing new, having been there the previous year. Collecting some duplicate plants. Mostly walking, and taking the boat to pass over 'the perpendicular rocks'. The high ground around the Spokane River and Kettle Falls covered with snow. The journey 'afforded good sport with the gun', shooting a pheasant, curlew and a black or mountain grouse [sage grouse]. Arriving at Fort Colvile at Kettle Falls with John McLoughlin and Alexander McLeod, after 17 miles' walk. Being welcomed by his 'old and kind friends', John Dease and John Work. Finding his box safe, arranging his papers and examining his seeds

(13-17 Apr 1827) Friday-Tuesday. Hail, snow and rain, with a northerly wind. The 'famished Indian dogs' devouring and tearing to pieces his grouses, despite their being carefully tied in a small oilcloth and hung from the tent poles, the dogs gnawing at the leather casing. Feeling 'grieved at this beyond measure', having carried the cock bird for 457 miles and the hen for 304 miles on his back. Writing a note to Archibald McDonald at Okanagan [Fort Okanogan] to attempt to procure another pair for him to send on the next ship to England. John Work showing him a pair of well-preserved skins of mouton blanche of the voyageurs [?pronghorn], killed on the high mountains 20 miles up the river, 'by the Indians on snowshoes, with their bows'. Having seen the same animal seen in Peale's museum in Philadelphia [Charles Willson Peale's Philadelphia Museum], brought there by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. The male weighing 200-250lbs, the female smaller, whiter, with shorter beard and horns. Seeing a well-preserved pair of black-tailed deer, abundant on the mountains nearby. Work having a skin of the small wolf of the plains [?coyote], 'a singular variety, and curious from its being the deity or god of the Flathead [Salish] tribe of Indians. Perhaps I might have got the whole off Mr Work, but knowing them to have been procured at the particular request of Mr Garry [Nicholas Garry, deputy governor of Hudson's Bay Company] in London, I of course could not ask for them. Mr Sabine [Joseph Sabine], I hope, will get them through that channel'

Taking single specimens of each plant not already sent to England, packing them in one of his old journals, 'to save room'. Packing the rest to send to England, leaving his minerals with Work. Collecting bulbs of Claytonia lanceolata and Lilium pudicum [Fritillaria pudica], and roots of Erythronium grandiflorum: 'although in a bad season for removal, I cannot forbear making a trial'. Writing a note for John McLoughlin regarding the packing of the two boxes at Fort Vancouver, 'to be placed on the ship's invoice as 'dry plants, seeds, preserved animals and articles relating to natural history' for the Horticultural Society of London'. Writing a note to be read to his 'Cheenook [Chinook] friend' Cockqua about the Arctomys skins he had been unable to get. Writing a note to Joseph Sabine, dated 16 Apr, to inform him of the four boxes on board the Hudson's Bay Company ship, containing the 'total collection' by Douglas in north-west America. Writing a note to the commander of the ship about the treatment of the boxes

Having made the preparations by Tuesday afternoon, going for a horse ride with McLoughlin and Alexander McLeod. Being taken to the camp, about a mile from the establishment, at 9pm, in order not to lose time in the morning: 'having now just bid farewell to my Columbian friends, I cannot in justice to my own feelings refrain from acknowledging the kindness shown to me during my stay among them, a grateful remembrance of which I shall ever cherish'. The remainder of the journey being in the company of Edward Ermatinger ('a most agreeable young man') and seven men: '4 Canadians and 3 Iroquois Indians', their next stop Jasper House [Hudson's Bay Company trading post on Athabasca River, Alberta, Canada] in the Rocky Mountains, about 370 miles away. Going to sleep at 2am

(18 Apr 1827) Wednesday. Sleeping late, until dawn, 'when we hurriedly pushed off, lest we should be seen by our old friends, who left us last night'. Snow showers. Temperature 28°, with a piercing northerly wind. The river running northwards, surrounded by rugged high mountains of granite, iron and trap rock, with Pinus taxifolia [?Pseudotsuga menziesii] and Pinus resinosa growing on the hills, and Pinus larix [Larix decidua] in the valleys. The river narrow in many places, 70-100 yards broad, with rocks and high gravelly banks forming rapids and making it difficult to ascend. Passing the dalles at 8pm and being caught up by an Indian with a forgotten letter. The only plants in flower being Lilium pudicum [Fritillaria pudica] and a species of Pulmonaria. Camping at dusk eight miles above the dalles after 29 miles' journey. Edward Ermatinger playing the flute 'with great skill' whilst waiting for the kettle to boil. Cloudy

(19 Apr 1827) Thursday. Heavy snow showers from midnight until 2am, with three inches of snow on the ground in the morning, but none five miles further up. 'Like many others, this day's journey admits of little variety'. The country becoming more mountainous and rugged, and the trees smaller. Passing the Flathead River at 8am, only 30 yards wide at its entrance, 'but throws a large body of water into the Columbia [Columbia River]', the cascades forming a 'fine effect', flowing from a subterranean passage surrounded by high hills with overhanging pines. Being told by Peter Skene Ogden, 'who possesses more knowledge of the country south of the Columbia than any other person', that the source of the river was a small lake in the Rocky Mountains, flowing into both oceans, being the headwater of a branch of the Missouri River [Missouri River] as well as the Columbia

Stopping for breakfast at 9am for half an hour ('our usual time'). Seeing only huge mountains 'as far as the eye can behold': 'ridge towering above ridge in awful grandeur', covered in snow and destitute of woods. Lower down, the scenery composed of rugged granite cliffs and scattered rocks, 'which from time to time have been hurled from their beds in masses too large and weighty for anything to withstand'. Seeing trees and plants, including a small Pinus larix [Larix decidua], Pinus strobus (abundant, being lofty but not exceeding two feet in diameter: 'now I see this, I think the large species found on the Umpqua River and south of it has considerable affinity to it, but at the same time still specifically distinct'), birch growing in damp valleys and riverbanks, a species of Ranunculus and Erythronium grandiflorum [here the journal includes a list of 6 more plants]

The river flowing northwards with frequent rapids. Camping at the foot of a high circular mountain. A cool morning, followed by a clear and pleasant day. A beautiful sky at sunset, with the snowy mountain summits tinted with gold: 'the parts secluded from his rays are clothed with cloudy branches of the pine wearing a darker hue, while the river at the base is stealing silently along in silvery brightness or dashes through the dark recesses of a rocky dalle. How glad should I feel if I could do justice to my pencil (when you get home, begin to learn)'

A small stream called the White Sheep River [?Sheep Creek, near Northport, Washington] ('from the antelopes found on its banks') four miles below their last camp ('last night I forgot to say') flowing into the river: 'also I must observe that Mr Work [John Work] presented me with a nightcap made of the hair and wool of that animal, netted by an Indian girl, and a pair of inferior snowshoes called bear's paws'. Distance covered that day 33 miles

(20 Apr 1827) Friday. A slight frost in the morning. Having to light a small fire to thaw and dry out the wet tent before folding it. Passing McGillivray's or Cootanie River [Kootenay River], a large rapid stream with clear water: 'this is said to be a good route across the mountains, but from the hostile disposition manifested by the natives inhabiting the higher parts of the Saskatchewan [Saskatchewan River, Canada], the Athabasca portage [Athabasca Landing Trail, Alberta, Canada] is preferred, being free from such visitors'. Five miles above it, the Columbia River widening gradually into a lake [Lower Arrow Lake and Upper Arrow Lake, British Columbia, Canada] 1 to 2 1/2 miles wide and very deep, with perpendicular rock edges and small bays with sandy or gravelly beaches. The scenery fine, but less rugged, the hills more thickly wooded, surrounded by snowy peaks

Stopping for breakfast at 8am and proceeding for a further nine miles. The course of the river varying between north-westerly and north-easterly. A light breeze at 10am enabling the use of a sail. A fine and clear day. 'Intended to have arranged a few words of the Cheenook [Chinookan] language, but was molested out of my life by the men singing their boat songs'. The only new plant being a small species of Juniperus, found at Kettle Falls the previous year. Camping at dusk on a low sandy point, four miles from the upper end of the lake, after 47 miles' journey

(21 Apr 1827) Saturday. An Indian with two children coming to the camp after dusk to sell a small piece of venison, some small trout ('of good quality') and some small suckerfish, common in the river. Learning that sturgeons, although present, were not fished by the Indians. A clear and fine morning, making swift progress with the easterly wind. Setting off at dawn along the north shore. Stopping to buy three pairs of snowshoes ('such as I obtained at Kettle Falls') from an Indian [?Sinixt] camp. Seeing at least a hundred reindeer ('caribou of the voyageurs') skins in his lodge, the animals being killed easily with a bow and arrow. Having learned from Alexander McLeod, based on his experience on the McKenzie River [Mackenzie River], that there were two varieties of reindeer, not differing very much from each other, the smaller abundant at high latitudes in the north, the larger by the Columbia River: 'the large hoof, which this species has, not observed in any other of the genus, is a proof of the wise economy of nature, given it to facilitate its tedious wanderings in the deep snows'. Stopping for breakfast at 10am at the upper end of the lake: 'instead of 4 miles [long], as I observed last night, I found it to be 11'. Seeing four Indians collecting lichen from the pines, to be used to 'make a sort of bread-cake in times of scarcity'. Seeing in their camp horns of black-tailed deer and one pair of red deer horns, not having seen them since leaving the coast

The last 11 miles of the lake turning eastwards. Seeing driftwood on the rocks, 10 feet above the water level. The river returning to its former width of about 150 yards with a swift current, before widening into another lake [Lake Revelstoke, British Columbia, Canada], not as large or deep as the first one, the shores at first low sand and gravel, with a species of Lunaria growing under the Pinus larix [Larix decidua] and Pinus canadensis [Tsuga canadensis]. No longer seeing any Pinus resinosa. The country becoming more 'broken', with 'bolder shores' and smaller trees, the lake widening out into bays. The local canoes being different from those seen before, made of the fine bark of Pinus canadensis [Tsuga canadensis] underneath, and of birch bark about a foot from the gunwale, sewn with the roots of Thuja, the seams gummed with pine resin. The canoes being 10-14 feet long with sharp ends ('bent inwards so much at the mouth, that a man of middle size has some difficulty in placing himself in them'), designed to carry six people, with their provisions on their shoulders

The weather pleasant, temperature 55° in the shade, with a chilly evening. Camping on the right side of the river near a white marble rock. Seeing stumps and entire dead trees standing out of the water: 'by some change in nature, the river has widened. The same thing occurs 10 miles above the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids], 148 miles from the sea'. Distance covered that day 31 miles

(22 Apr 1827) Sunday. Continuing the journey 'in the grey of the morn', at 4am. A pleasant journey, with calm weather. A slight frost at night, with a warm but cloudy day. Stopping for breakfast in a gravelly bay after 15 miles at 9am. The shores of the lake bold and rocky, the lake running north and eastwards. Seeing a 'remarkable' perpendicular blue limestone rock further on, 240 feet high, on a substratum of granite. Seeing 'the most sublime view' of water with an island on one side and a deep bay on another, surrounded by lofty, snowy peaks, with the 'deep rich hue of Pinus canadensis [Tsuga canadensis] with its feathery, cloudy branches quivering in the breeze', contrasting with the pine growing at the base, and the 'light tints, but more majestic height of Pinus strobus exalting their lofty tops beyond any other tree of the forest, [imparting] an indescribable beauty to the scene'. A river appearing to flow into the bay to the east

Stopping by three Indian lodges at the end of the lake, at the foot of a high hill. Purchasing some dried reindeer meat and some black bear for dinner. Seeing many skins of black-tailed deer, reindeer and red deer: 'they seem to live comfortably'. Buying some mouton blanche [?pronghorn] wool for seven bullets and seven charges of gunpowder, to show the quality of the wool: 'get a pair of stocking made of it'. Continuing the journey northwards at 4pm. The river being very shallow, 200 yards wide with a fine gravelly bottom and low banks covered with poplar, birch, Cornus and Symphoricarpos, and many sandbanks with dead timber buried in the sand. Seeing small wren-like birds fluttering in the pines with a 'sweet, chirping voice', hanging upside down from the pine cones

Camping at dusk on a high, wooded spot. The river covered in snow. 'A Sunday in any part of Great Britain is spent differently from what I have had in my power to do. Day after day without any observance (except date) passes, but not one passes without thoughts of home'. Seeing plants, including Pinus nigra, Linnaea borealis, Asplenium trichomanoides [identification unresolved as at Sep 2018] and larger species of Pinus strobus and Thuja occidentalis than further south [here the journal includes a list of three more plants]. Distance covered that day 29 miles on the lake and seven miles on the river

(23 Apr 1827) Monday. Continuing the journey at 4am. The riverbanks low, shallow and gravelly, with large Thuja on the low points, growing to 200 feet tall. Stopping for breakfast at 9am after nine miles' journey. Purchasing grey and red suckerfish and white mullet 'of fine quality' from 'a woman'. The river and the country remaining similar until 5pm, when the river suddenly turned north-east, 'and to all appearance loses itself in the mountains. At this place and for two miles higher, a scene of the most terrific grandeur presents itself': the river only 35 yards wide, with rapids, whirlpools and still basins with dark water, surrounded by rugged hills covered with dead trees, torrential winds baring their roots and bringing down large granite blocks. 'Passing this place just as the sun was tipping the mountains, and his feeble rays now and then seen through the shady forests, imparts a melancholy sensation of no ordinary description, filling the mind with awe on beholding this picture of gloomy wildness'. The passage ending in a dangerous rapid with a nine-foot fall: 'to pass [...] took all our united strength', two guiding the boat with poles and seven 'on the line'. Douglas carrying all his belongings. The river widening, with rocky shores and deep snow making walking difficult. Seeing granite, blue limestone and white, red-veined marble in the rocks

Camping two miles further up part way up the rapids among large stones and snow. A mild morning, calm and warm day, temperature 65° and a fine, but chilly evening. Being almost too tired to write. Not having seen any new plants. Distance covered that day 28 miles

(24 Apr 1827) Tuesday. 'Scarcely anything worthy of notice occurred this day'. Continuing the journey at dawn, the river full of shoals and very rapid. Travelling eight miles before breakfast. Camping on the edge of a thick wood. Having trouble finding a dry spot in the melting snow. A mild and cloudy morning, with light drizzly rain for the rest of the day ('now 1/2 past 7'). Distance covered that day 23 miles. Seeing only a species of Shepherdia ('found last year at Kettle Falls, of diminutive growth') and an Aralia or Panax, found on the Cascade Mountains. Seeing geese, duck and two beavers in the water, but not managing to kill them

(25 Apr 1827) Wednesday. The rain stopping. A dull but pleasant morning: 'the mornings and evenings appear long. The high mountains on the banks of the river screen the sun's cheering influence from us until 8am, which is withdrawn shortly after 4pm'. Stopping for breakfast at 9am at the foot of Dalles des Morts [later submerged by Lake Revelstoke Reservoir, British Columbia, Canada] after eight and a half miles' journey. The river 35-50 yards wide, with a very rapid current and large stones. Reaching the head of the dalles shortly after noon, 'but not without much labour and anxiety'. Douglas carrying all his valuables ('seeds and notes') on his back along the rocks, with his other belongings brought by one of the men

The place being considered one of the most dangerous parts on the whole river, and being named after a 'melancholy circumstance' some years ago, in which a party of men ascending the river ('as we now are') had their canoes dashed to pieces. Having escaped to the shore, they faced 'a short respite from death, more unsupportable than immediate death itself: without food, without arms, scarcely any clothing, being stripped, and three hundred miles from any assistance'. Two of them managed to reach Spokane [Spokane House] 'in such a state as readily bespoke of the misery they had endured. One of the veterans I have seen, an Iroquois, by name Francis, one of the best boatmen'. The six remaining men, unable to decide what to do, all died except one, 'who, it is supposed on good foundation, supported his dreadful existence on a forbidden fare, having previously imbrued his hands in the blood of his companions or companion in suffering. This, be it as it may, could not be brought home to him in point of law, and the wretch was sent out of their [Hudson Bay Company] service to Canada' [in 1817, a group of North West Company voyageurs were wrecked, with the final survivor, La Pierre, being found on the shores of Upper Arrow Lake, confessing to cannibalism]

Camping on the right-hand side of the river on a sandbank, ten and a half miles from the dalles, having travelled altogether 19 miles. Not seeing any new plants. Seeing rocks of micaceous granite. A warm day and cool evening. Seeing high, snowy mountains 40 miles away: 'will prove, I hope, the dividing ridge of the continent'

(26 Apr 1827) Thursday. Having to rise twice during the frosty night to make a fire. A clear morning, and fine, warm day with temperature of 70° and a chilly afternoon. Stopping for breakfast after seven miles. Seeing no plants. The woods becoming smaller and Pinus strobus becoming rare. The snow six feet deep in many places, the riverbanks steep and rugged, and the river running rapidly northwards. Having to lie down on the shore among rocks, the only place clear of snow, being unable to find anywhere to camp: 'but being fatigued, glad of any place'. Distance covered that day 23 miles, walking in the morning on the crusty snow. Seeing high mountains in every direction and a ridge to the north-east, probably the Rocky Mountains: 'passed those seen last night, which I took for them'. Having a headache caused by the cold during the night: 'walked until in a state of perspiration, which gave me relief'. Minimum temperature 27°

(27 Apr 1827) Friday. A frosty night and clear morning with an easterly wind. Continuing the journey at dawn after a 'comfortless night's rest'. Stopping for breakfast at 9am after eight miles. After breakfast, seeing 'one of the most magnificent prospects in nature', the mountains dividing the continent six miles away. The mountains being 6,000-6,500 feet high from the level of the river, covered with wood and the summits with eternal snow: 'one rugged beyond all description, rising into sharp rugged peaks, many beyond the power of man to ascend, being perpendicular black rocks'. The mountains to the right of the Canoe River [later submerged by Mica Dam, British Columbia, Canada], a northern branch of the Columbia River, being most rugged, with the highest peak rising on the left of the Columbia. Despite having travelled for two weeks surrounded by high snowy mountains, 'yet on beholding those mentioned impresses on the mind a feeling beyond what I can express, I would say a feeling of horror [awe]'

Arriving at the Boat Encampment [site named by David Thompson, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader and explorer, after time spent attempting to build a boat in 1811; the site was later submerged by Mica Dam, British Columbia, Canada] at 12pm, at the junction of the Columbia and Canoe Rivers, the former 60 yards wide and with three channels of water at low tide, and the latter 40 yards wide and very rapid. Seeing large Pinus taxifolia [?Pseudotsuga menziesii], Pinus canadensis [Tsuga canadensis], Thuja occidentalis and Populus around the camp, with the underwood composed of Cornus, Corylus, Juniperus and Salix. Seeing Linnaea borealis growing on the coast, and a species of Lilium on the highest mountains 'just peeping through the ground'

Finding the seeds in his tin box in good order and repacking them and his wardrobe, consisting of '4 shirts (2 linen and 2 flannel), 3 handkerchiefs, 2 pair stockings, a drab cloth jacket, vest and trousers of the same, 1 pair tartan trousers, vest and coat; bedding, 1 blanket; 7 pairs of deer-skin shoes, or as they are called, moccasins; 1 razor, soap-box, brush, strop and 1 towel, with half a cake of Windsor soap. In addition to these I was presented with a pair of leggings by Mr Ermatinger [Edward Ermatinger], made out of the sleeves of an old blanket-coat or capot of the voyageurs. This, trifling as it may appear, I esteem in my present circumstances as very valuable. When the half of these, my sole property, is on my back, the remainder is tied in a handkerchief of the common sort'

'Now that I conceive my wanderings on the Columbia and through the various parts west of the Rocky Mountains to be over, I shall just state as near as possible their extent', with a list of his destinations 1825-1827 and the distance travelled, including 'in July [1825], to and from the ocean and along the coast, 216 miles' , 'an allowance of my daily wanderings from Fort Vancouver, my headquarters, 850 miles', 'in May [1826], journey to Spokane [Spokane House], 150 miles', 'from Okanagan [Fort Okanogan] to Fort Vancouver, 490 miles', 'in March and April [1827], the whole chain of the Columbia from the ocean to the Rocky Mountains, 995 miles' [here the journal includes a list of 23 more entries], the whole totalling 7,032 miles: 'my notes will show by what means it was gained'

(28 Apr 1827) Saturday. A cold night, temperature 18°-51°. Having to rise during the night to make fire. Being delayed by Edward Ermatinger arranging the boat and 'other articles en cache' until 8am. Leaving the Columbia River and travelling eastwards. Passing a low wood and a swamp three miles long, frequently sinking to the knees in water ('doubly fatiguing from the thin ice on its surface, too weak to bear us up'), a deep muddy creek and a second hilly wood. Having to resort to wearing his 'bears' paws' or snowshoes, the snow four to seven feet deep and softened by the sun, but being annoyed throughout the day by the lacing of the shoes slackening due to being wet: 'being little skilled in the use of them, now and then I was falling head over heels'. Passing several rivulets, visible where the river flowed rapidly, otherwise covered with snow

Seeing plants, including Betula nana, Pyrola secunda [Orthilia secunda], Berberis aquifolium ('of diminutive size in the shady wood'), a low spiny-stemmed rose ('rare') and Pinus banksiana [here the journal includes a list of 16 more plants]. Camping on the west side of the middle branch of the river at 2pm after nine miles. Seeing a small bunting ('the whole body of a uniform light brown, except the wings, which were dirty-white. Beak short, thick, white'), blue crested jays ('so common on the coast'), light chocolate-coloured squirrels feeding on pine seeds and a large wolverine ('escaped before a shot could be put his way')

'Today is a scene of some curiosity even to myself, and I can hardly imagine what a stranger would think to see 9 men, each with his load on his back (food and clothing), his snowshoes in his hands, starting on a journey over such an inhospitable country: one falling, a second helping him up, a [third] lagging and far behind, a [fourth] resting smoking his pipe, and so on'. Edward Ermatinger offering all of Douglas's belongings to be carried for him, but Douglas not accepting. Carrying all the seeds in the tin box and his journals, tied up in an oilcloth and weighing 43lbs, his clothes and blanket: 'somewhat tired, my shoulders painful from the straps'. Fine evening

(29 Apr 1827) Sunday. A clear morning, temperature 23°-43°. Continuing the journey at 4am, refreshed by a sound sleep. Travelling eastwards for six miles, crossing the river seven times from one channel to another. The river at high water during the summer covering the whole valley. Turning towards the north-east, crossing more fords with water 2 ½ to 3 1/2 feet deep and strong currents. Not requiring the snowshoes, the snow being hard with frost. Cold, the temperature 'alternately plunging to the middle in water 35° Fahrenheit, and skipping with my load to recover my heat among the hoar frost'. Having to use the snowshoes on entering a wood with four to seven feet deep snow, dead trees and brushwood making walking difficult. Camping by a river at noon, 'the snow having become soft, and we weary with fatigue'. Eagerly making breakfast, everyone being hungry after the walk. Continuing through the wood for four and a half miles, altogether walking for 15 miles

Seeing many geese, but not killing any. Killing one female wood partridge, quite similar to those on the coast: 'I wanted to take it alive, stood till within 2 yards, and then fluttered among the dead leaves, when I placed a little lead in her body'. Collecting seeds of Aralia or Panax, found on the Cascade Mountains, growing 8-12 feet high and strong. Seeing Potentilla fruticosa [Dasiphora fruticosa] and Dryas in the dry places in the valley, and a species of Betula in the damp woods, growing 40-60 feet high and 18 inches to 2 1/2 feet in diameter: 'of this the canoes are made'. A wolverine visiting the camp: 'I gave a few shots, which he thought he could carry, which he did in consequence of it being dark, he secreting himself in some hole under the root of a tree'. A fine evening. Making a pair of socks by adapting an old pair of stockings: 'the feet being worn, took the skirts of [off] my coat to wrap round my toes instead of socks. Strict economy here is requisite. My feet, ankles and toes very painful from the lacing of my snowshoes. Otherwise, well and comfortable, lying in a deep hole or pit among the snow on a couch of pine branches with a good fire at my feet. If good weather visits us, we are thankful, if bad, we make the best of a bad situation by creeping each under his blanket, and, when wet, dry it at the fire'

(30 Apr 1827) Monday. Maximum temperature 43° at the camp 700 feet on the mountain, and 22° in the valley at 4pm. Continuing the journey at dawn on snowshoes through the wood. Entering a second valley. Resting after two and a quarter miles, 'in the course of which we made seven fordings over the same river that we crossed yesterday'. Continuing for four more miles, and crossing the river another four times. The stream dividing into two branches, one flowing towards the north and the other towards the east. Continuing towards the north-east between the two, through a wood with plenty of large Pinus balsamea [Abies balsamea]. Reaching the foot of a densely wooded, steep hill known as the Big Hill, with 'unmeasurable' ravines or gullies. Walking with difficulty in the deep, soft snow, sliding back, 'the snowshoes twisting and throwing the weary traveller down (and I speak as I feel), so feeble that lie I must among the snow, like a broken-down wagon-horse entangled in his harnessing, weltering to rescue myself'. Camping at noon two miles up the hill, everyone very tired. Melting snow for water ('makes good tea'). Being glad to have any food. On arriving at a camping place, one person collecting dry twigs to make a fire, two or three procuring fuel for the night, others collecting soft green branches of Pinus balsamea [Abies balsamea] or Pinus canadensis [Tsuga canadensis] to sleep on ('termed 'flooring the house''), each hanging up their wet clothing by the fire to dry, repairing their snowshoes and arranging their load for the following day. In the morning, rising, shaking the blankets and tying them on the top: 'then try who is to be at the next stage first'. Dreaming of being in Regent Street in London. Distance covered that day nine miles

(1 May 1827) Tuesday. Their fire having sunk through the snow during the night into a hole six feet deep, 'making a natural kitchen'. Temperature 2°-44° on the big hill. Continuing the laborious ascent at dawn, the snow deepening and the trees diminishing in size towards the summit. Frequently losing the path, the marks on the trees being covered with snow. Reaching the summit at 10am. Descending towards the north-east and encountering the same river. Camping at midday in the valley by a wood of small trees of Pinus nigra and Pinus banksiana, unable to go further in the soft, deep snow, having walked for seven miles

Edward Ermatinger killing a 'most beautiful' small male partridge, with a jet black neck and breast, a lighter back, grey belly, mottled with white and a black beak: 'above the eye, bright scarlet, which it raises on each side of the head, screening the few feathers on the crown'. The bird similar to those mentioned by Alexander McLeod on the higher parts of the Peace River and the Smoky River, and also said to be found in Western Caledonia [New Caledonia], but smaller: 'perhaps there may be two varieties'. Preserving it, being the first of this breed seen by Douglas, 'although mutilated in the legs, and in any circumstances little chance of being able to carry it, let along being in a good state' [annotated in the margin: 'the flesh of the partridge remarkably tender when new killed, like game that has been killed several days. Instead of being white, of a darkish cast']

After breakfast at 1pm, wanting to ascend one of the peaks, being on the highest part of the route: 'accordingly I set out alone on snowshoes' to the highest-looking peak [Mount Brown, British Columbia, Canada; Douglas called the mountain Mount Brown, but neither that mountain or Mount Hooker [later McGillivray Ridge] nearby, also named by Douglas, were as high as Douglas assumed, although both were referred to as the highest mountains in North America until 20th century, causing confusion]

Ascending laboriously the lower, pine-covered section of the mountain, sinking frequently in the snow. Half-way up the hill finding no more vegetation, not even moss or lichen, and walking becoming easier on the hard snow. Further up, the mountain becoming 'pure ice, sealed far over by nature's hand as momentous work of nature's god'. The height perhaps 5,500 feet, with the timber line at 2,750 feet, 1,000 feet of perpetual snow and the final 1,250 feet a glacier with a thin layer of snow. The ascent taking five hours, the descent an hour and a quarter: 'places where the descent was gradual, I tied my shoes together, making them carry me in turn as a sledge. Sometimes I came down at one spell, 500 or 700 feet in the space of one minute and a half'. Staying on the summit for 20 minutes, but having to descend before dark, having no means to light a fire. Being impressed by the views: 'nothing, as far as the eye could perceive, but mountains such as I was on, and many higher, some rugged beyond any description, striking the mind with horror [awe] blended with a sense of the wondrous works of the almighty. The aerial tints of the snow, the heavenly azure of the solid glaciers, the rainbow-like hues of their thin broken fragments, the huge mossy icicles hanging from the perpendicular rocks with the snow sliding from the steep southern rocks with amazing velocity, producing a crash and grumbling like the shock of an earthquake, the echo of which resounding in the valley for several minutes'. Seeing plants, including Menziesia coerulea [identification unresolved as at Oct 2018], Lycopodium alpinum, dead stems of Gentiana nivalis, a small species of Epilobium and Juncus triglumis [here the journal includes a list of seven more plants]

(2 May 1827) Wednesday. Not being able to sleep well due to pain in his ankles and knees. Rising at 3am to kindle the fire. Temperature 20°. Continuing the journey at 4.15am through the wood, ascending gradually. Reaching one of the head springs of the Columbia River after an hour, a small lake or basin 20 yards in diameter, flowing to the Pacific [Pacific Ocean] and to the Hyperborean Sea [the North Sea]: 'namely, the headwaters of the Athabasca River. A small lake, about 47° of N latitude, divides its waters between the Columbia and one of the branches of the Missamac [?MicMac River, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada], which is singular'. Descending on the east side. The little river becoming considerably larger, with cascades and waterfalls four and seven miles from its sources falling over cauldrons of fine white and blue limestone and basalt columns: 'where the torrents descend with furious rapidity, it spreads out into a broad channel bounded by the mountains'. The mountain rugged, the snow gradually diminishing eight miles below the ridge. Passing very high ('perhaps 4000 feet') perpendicular rocks with flat tops standing against the background of the glacier and the valley, with 'columns and pillars of ice running out in all the ramifications of the Corinthian order [classical architectural style]'. The view resembling the crater of a volcano, enormous stones having been carried by the current across the valley in the summer months

The climate and the vegetation changing. No longer seeing huge Thuja, Pinus taxifolia [?Pseudotsuga menziesii], Pinus strobus, Acer or Berberis, so abundant on the other side. Seeing plenty of Pinus nigra and Pinus banksiana, and some Salix. In the shade, seeing Ledum palustre and Sphagnum, and in the dry hilly parts Ledum buxifolium [Kalmia buxifolia] and Arbutus uva-ursi [Arctostaphylos uva-ursi]. The only bird a small, light dun jay, 'who, with all the impudence peculiar to most of his kindred, fluttered round our camp last night picking any food thrown to him'. Not being able to say anything about the structure of the mountains: 'it is worthy of notice, however, that all I have yet seen here and west of the Rocky Mountains have a dip of from 30° to 45° south-west. I do not recollect a single exception'. The most common rocks being blue and micaceous granite, limestone trap and basalt. Not having seen any sandstone or freestone. Stopping at 10am for breakfast fifteen miles from the ridge. Continuing the journey at 2pm. Very warm, temperature 57°. Passing through the valley and entering a rocky wood along the river, now narrow and rapid. Seeing Dryas octopetala and another species, perhaps Dryas integrifolia, on the dry, gravelly shores. Finding the low, wet wood difficult to pass over. Seeing a species of Aralia, growing as a low, two-foot shrub

Douglas getting lost, the others being three miles behind him, but seeing smoke at sunset about a mile away, and finding Jacques Cardinal [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] with eight horses, 'who had come to meet us'. One of the men arriving after an hour. Hearing shots fired as a signal for Douglas: 'which obliged me to send the man on horseback to say I had arrived at the Moose encampment [also known as Camp or Campement d'Orignal, Alberta, Canada]'. 'Old Cardinal' roasting a shoulder of mouton gris [bighorn sheep] ('very fine'), and boiling his food in a 'pint copper kettle patched in an ingenious manner', that and a knife being his only cooking utensils. Cardinal pointing at the river, saying ''This is my barrel, and it is always running'. So, having nothing to drink out of, I had to take my shoulder of mountain sheep and move to the brook, helping myself as I found it necessary'

Hearing that Dr Richardson [John Richardson, doctor and naturalist accompanying John Franklin on his expedition] had arrived at Cumberland House [Hudson's Bay Company trading post on Saskatchewan River, Saskatchewan, Canada] in February, that Captain Franklin had met a ship in the North Sea [John Franklin, explorer who charted Canada and the Arctic in 1825-1827, was due to meet Captain Frederick Beechey's ship Blossom, but he turned back before actually encountering the ship], and that Mr Drummond [Thomas Drummond, botanist] ('who spent last summer in this neighbourhood'), had gone to Fort Edmonton on Saskatchewan River [North Saskatchewan River, Alberta and Saskatchewan, Canada] in November. None of Douglas's companions having arrived, Cardinal giving Douglas his blanket, sleeping on a reindeer skin himself. The mountains high and uneven, but more wooded and with less snow. [Annotated in the margin: 'Crossed the river 15 times in 3 places; 2 half-full water, very rapid, full of large stones. This day marched 25 miles']

(3 May 1827) Thursday. Jacques Cardinal going out shortly after dawn and bringing back Douglas's companions at 7am. Breakfasting and tying their belongings on two of the horses. Continuing the journey on the ice- and snow-covered riverbed, over woods, low marshes and low hills, the path very difficult to walk on, being covered in dead wood and melting snow. Travelling north-east towards the camp on the main branch of Athabasca River, a rapid stream 77 yards wide. Finding travelling easier than expected and the horses in a better condition, deciding to continue past the camp with the horses, Douglas following behind with his gun, in search of birds. Arriving tired at 'a small hut called the Rocky Mountain House [Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Alberta, Canada. There were several posts called Rocky Mountain House]' at 6.30pm, having walked 34 miles

Killing one partridge, a small bird for its kind, according to Cardinal. Not being able to preserve it. Attempting unsuccessfully to shoot a light grey cock bird with a black 'ruffle and top' resembling the common wood pheasant. Collecting two specimens of a 'handsome' Anemone with large, pale blue and white flowers growing in dry rocky places: 'seems to be the first flowering plant'. Temperature 25°-51°. Seeing a small lake near the camp, with beautiful plains on each side. The soil light and gravelly, the oval-shaped valley seven miles in length with a fine view of the mountains. Fine evening

(4 May 1827) Friday. Being glad and 'somewhat relieved' to know that they had left the mountains behind, the journey for the next three days being over water to Assiniboine [Fort Assiniboine, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Alberta, Canada]. Continuing the journey at dawn in two birch canoes, travelling lightly and rapidly down the stream. The riverbanks low and narrow in many places, widening to long, narrow, shallow lakes, the mountains gradually reducing in height and more densely wooded. Stopping for breakfast on a small, low, sandy island. Being joined by a hunter with a large female sheep killed an hour previously on the mountains, cut up in quarters, with short, coarse and very thick light brown wool, estimating its weight to be 170lbs

Continuing the journey and passing a high, rugged range of mountains and, lower down, 'seemingly the termination of the dividing ridge'. Arriving at Jasper House [Hudson's Bay Company trading post, at this time possibly located by Brule Lake, Alberta, Canada] ('3 small hovels') at 2pm. Staying for the day to rest. Temperature 29°-61°, fine and warm. The country to the south undulating and woody, to the north low, hilly and woody, with a beautiful view of the Rocky Mountains: 'the difference of climate is great, and the total change of verdure impresses on the mind of the traveller an idea of being, as it were, in a different hemisphere, more than in a different part of the same continent, and only a 100 miles apart'

Obtaining from Jacques Cardinal a pair of large ram's horns and a skull without the lower jaw. Eating 'some of the much talked-of white fish' for supper, finding it good, despite having been simply boiled in water without salt or any sauce or seasoning: 'afterwards drinking the liquor in which it was boiled. No bread'. Being comfortable. Seeing no new plants. Seeing one prickly species of Ribes on the riverbanks and two species of Salix, one large, 6-10 feet high, with red bark

(5 May 1827) Saturday. An old violin having been found at the house the previous night: 'Mr E.'s [Edward Ermatinger] servant being something of a performer, nothing less than dancing in the evening would suit them [...] This may serve to show how little they look on hardship when past: only a few days ago, and they were as much depressed, as they are now elated'

A fine morning. Temperature 29°-62°, with an easterly wind. Continuing the journey at dawn in the canoe, passing the sandy shores and shoals of the lake to the stream: 'this day admits little variety'. The river 100-140 yards wide, shallow and full of rapids. Having to repair the canoe at 2pm. The riverbanks high and gravelly further up, and sandy clay on sandstone further down, low and gravelly, covered with Pinus nigra, Pinus banksiana, Betula and Alnus. Seeing the last view of the Rocky Mountains at 11am. The water muddy and the river small in comparison with the 'clear, majestic Columbia [Columbia River]'. Killing several geese and ducks. A northern chia [great northern diver or common loon], with a 'wild and mellow voice' visiting the camp in the evening, its eggs greenish blue and about the size of a goose egg. Hoping to have some sent from the Columbia. The river running southwards. Camping on the left bank at dusk, after 93 miles

(6 May 1827) Sunday. Windy, temperature 34°-56°. Continuing the journey at dawn. Stopping for breakfast after 27 miles, finding the current abating and more ice on the riverbanks. Overtaking Mr George McDougall [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] and four men on their way from Western Caledonia [New Caledonia]: 'had suffered great hardship passing the mountains from hunger', having spent nine days travelling from Jasper House, where Douglas and his companions had left the previous day, following the clearing ice. The party stopping until 4pm before being able to follow the breaking ice again. Having to stop for the night after another six miles. 'Country the same as yesterday, nothing of interest except to myself. Burnt my blanket and great toe at the fire last night'

(7 May 1827) Monday. Continuing the journey at dawn, but being held up after a few miles by the ice. Eating a 'scanty' breakfast of goose killed the previous day. After waiting for two hours, resolving to make a 'short portage' over the ice into the freely flowing main channel of the river. Stopping at noon to let a large ice flotilla pass. Continuing the journey at 2pm. Seeing a large 'moose-deer' on the riverbank: 'having only one deranged [defective] gun in our canoe, a sight of him was all that was had'

Being welcomed to Assiniboine [Fort Assiniboine] at dusk by Mr Harriott [John Edward Harriott, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader]. The river from Jasper House for the whole 184 miles being very similar: 'seeing one mile gives an idea of the whole', the riverbanks low, marshy or clay and gravel, with small trees including Pinus alba [Picea glauca] and Betula, the underwood composed of Corylus, Mespilus and Hypericum [here the journal includes a list of five more plants and trees], with coal beds under rotten slate on the riverbanks. Temperature 37°-59° with an easterly wind

(8 May 1827) Tuesday. Intending to wait for 'the people from Lesser Slave Lake [Alberta, Canada]', considering it unsafe to proceed in such a small party, with scarce provisions and 'the hostile disposition of the Indian tribes in the south'. Douglas accepting an invitation from George McDougall to join him and his party, travelling down the river to procure food for the men from the Columbia River and Western Caledonia [New Caledonia], with the intention 'merely to see the country' and to shoot birds, the season being too early for plant collecting

Setting off in one birch canoe with 11 men at 9am after a 'scanty, but the best breakfast the place afforded'. The country low and marshy, the riverbanks piled with large ice masses. Seeing few Pinus, but plenty of Betula and Populus. Not managing to kill any animals. Camping at dusk on the north side of the river after 47 miles' journey. A rainy evening after a cloudy day, temperature 40°-63°. 'No supper'

(9 May 1827) Wednesday. A clear and fine morning, temperature 40°-61°. Continuing the journey, still unsuccessful in procuring food. Arriving at the camp of a Nipissing hunter at 8am, and being given a small black bear, killed by the hunter the previous day, and some half-dried beaver meat: 'a hearty meal'. Continuing the journey to the junction of the Slave Rise River [Lesser Slave River, Alberta, Canada], flowing from Lesser Slave Lake into the Athabasca River. Being joined by the Lesser Slave Lake party, headed by John Stuart [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader], chief factor of the district: he 'received me in the most friendly manner'. Preparing reindeer steaks whilst waiting for the canoes to be repaired. Continuing the journey up the Athabasca. The country low and marshy

(10 May 1827) Thursday. Temperature 36°-40°. Being unable to continue the journey due to heavy snowfall all day. The camping place 'very bad', being situated on low ground among Equisetum hyemale. Finding John Stuart to have 'a more intimate knowledge of the country than any person I have yet seen, and a good idea of plants and other departments in natural history', having been the 'first individual' to cross the Rocky Mountains, establishing Western Caledonia [New Caledonia] in 1805, reaching the Pacific [Pacific Ocean] at Fraser's River [Fraser River] near Puget Sound [Washington] and exploring much of the same area as Alexander McKenzie, including the Columbia River. Stuart having received a letter from John Richardson from Fort Resolution on Great Bear Lake [Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Northwest Territories, Canada] saying that the whole expedition had returned without having reached Icy Cape [Alaska, United States of America], and that they had surveyed 13° longitude, west of Mackenzie River, 'but from the hostile disposition of the Esquimaux [Yupik, Inupiat or Inuit], they found it impenetrable, and that on the navigation opening they should all be at Cumberland [Cumberland House]'

Douglas abandoning his idea of going to Montreal [Quebec, Canada] or New York [United States of America], 'from the information he gives me of the opportunities that canoe travelling affords of collecting subjects of natural history', resolving to keep to his plans with Joseph Sabine and sail to England from Hudson Bay. This plan allowing him six weeks somewhere in the interior before sailing, whereas travelling through Canada 'nothing could be done, and my trip would no doubt be expensive'. Hoping to go to the Swan River [Manitoba, Canada] and Red River [Manitoba, Canada, and Minnesota and North Dakota, United States of America] overland from Carlton House [Fort Carlton, Hudson's Bay Company trading post on North Saskatchewan River, Saskatchewan, Canada], a journey of 20 days: 'this I am told will depend on the route taken by the Stone Indians [Assiniboine], who are hostile'

Hearing that Mr McDonald [?Finan McDonald], to whom Douglas had entrusted his seed box to be left at Fort Edmonton on the Saskatchewan River [North Saskatchewan River], 'had endured much misery descending the Athabasca [Athabasca River]' due to the ice. Hearing that McDonald was accompanied by Thomas Drummond: 'hope my box is safe (do not relish botanist coming in contact with another's gleanings)'

(11 May 1827) Friday. Temperature 25°-45°. Continuing the journey at dawn, 'cheerless and comfortless', in 12 inches of snow. Camping at the junction of the Pembina River [Alberta, Canada], a large muddy stream, 100 yards wide. Some of the party ascending the river, others continuing to Fort Assiniboine

(12 May 1827) Saturday. Temperature 29°-42°. Continuing the journey: 'nothing occurred'

(13 May 1827) Sunday. Temperature 32°-55°. Cloudy. Setting off early and travelling 10 miles before breakfast. Leaving the canoe and cutting through a low wood, arriving at Fort Assiniboine at 2pm. John Stuart killing a male partridge (called by him 'white flesher [ruffed grouse]'), the same species seen by Douglas 'in the bosom of the mountains'. The bird too much damaged to be worth preserving: 'make some small slug [shot], and procure a pair of this fine bird'

(14 May 1827) Monday. A dull and cloudy morning, temperature 36°-61°. Thunder and hail. Crossing the river at 2pm: 'Mr S. [John Stuart], I must mention, gave me two horses, one to carry my collection and one to ride, but being averse to that he went light'. Setting off towards the south, through a low marshy country with poplar and birch growing on the low areas, and pines higher up. Sinking to the knees on the muddy path: 'kept by the still frozen soil at the bottom from going further'. Passing through a wood and camping five miles from the river. Killing a female partridge, slightly lighter in colour from that on the Rocky Mountains, but being unable to preserve it: 'regret it'

(15 May 1827) Tuesday. 'This uninteresting wretched country affording me no plants, at daylight I took a gun and went in quest of partridges', shooting a pair of white fleshers [ruffed grouse] and a dark red hen of another species: 'the male a beautiful bird', but only the hen white flesher worth skinning, with small, white eggs, 'remarkably white' flesh and a very high and short breast-bone. Camping at 'Two Rivers [unidentified]', 'much fatigued'. Seeing two species of Ribes, both common west of the mountains beside rivulets. Temperature 29°-53°

(16 May 1827) Wednesday. Continuing the journey on the bad road, seeing no plants. Stopping for breakfast and to refresh the horses on a wet plain near a narrow lake. Seeing old beaver dams. Camping in a wood by another plain. Rain and thunder. Temperature 38°-48°

(17 May 1827) Thursday. A raw and unpleasant morning, temperature 33°-52°. Heavy showers. Walking for two hours on an 'excessively bad road' to Paddle River [Alberta, Canada], a rapid muddy creek, 30 yards wide, swollen by the melting snow. A raft being built, with two men swimming across, pulling it over by a rope: 'by this tedious operation we got all over in the space of 3 hours'. Continuing until midday, having not found any fodder for the horses. After a rest on a plain, continuing through thick woods intersected by narrow lakes. Reaching the Pembina River at dusk: 'regretted at not finding the canoes which we parted from 6 days ago'

(18 May 1827) Friday. A fine and pleasant morning. Three large rafts being made, sufficient for carrying all the baggage and people in one trip, the river being too wide and fast flowing to make return trips with one raft. Everyone crossing, apart from John Stuart, who intended to wait for his canoes. Douglas going ahead on an unsuccessful quest for birds. Fewer woods and a better path than the previous days. Arriving at 2pm at Eagle Lake [unidentified], six to eight miles long and three to four wide. 31 fish caught, including grey suckerfish and pike or jackfish, in preparation for the rest of the journey to Saskatchewan River [North Saskatchewan River]

(19 May 1827) Saturday. The fishermen catching only 60 fish during the night, including grey suckerfish or carp of the voyageur, and jackfish [pike]: 'both good eating'. Pleasant, temperature 39°-64°. Finding a species of Fumaria ('[annual] or [biennial], in blossom. Flowers yellow. On the edge of the lake. Saw only one plant, laid in specimens'). Killing a pair of white fleshers in the woods by the lake, the male a 'fine bird, and having time on my hands, I preserved it'. Finding a nest with six small, bright dun-coloured eggs, but the hen escaping. Temperature 31°-63°

(20 May 1827) Sunday. A windy night, temperature 36°-61°. Cloudy towards the evening. Receiving a 'friendly note' from John Stuart saying that if Douglas wished to spend a few days at Fort Edmonton, he could wait for Stuart and descend the Saskatchewan River [North Saskatchewan River] in his boat. Enough fish having been caught, continuing the journey at 10am towards the south. The road worse than before: 'passing the numerous swamps, often sinking nearly to the middle in mud and water'. Having to camp early due to the horses being fatigued, and having to pass through five miles of woodland ahead, with no fodder. Intending to continue on foot to the establishment 40 miles away, in order to have a few days collecting plants before the 'brigade' arrived: 'at the same time, I am most anxious to learn the fate of my packet of seeds'. The day's journey nine miles

(21 May 1827) Monday. Setting off at 4am on foot, accompanied by 'an old Nipissing Indian' familiar with the country west of the Rocky Mountains: 'although to appearance upwards of 70 years of age, I found him a most excellent walker'. After walking for six miles through a deep, muddy swamp and a thick pine wood, learning that the laborious part of the day's journey was over. Meeting five men with 25 horses at 7am, on their way to meet the 'brigade'. Being offered a horse, but choosing to walk, thinking the horses would be required to bring all the baggage

Continuing along Lake Bowland [unidentified], where two men had been sent to fish. Not staying with them for long, since they had not caught any fish. Crossing a deep, narrow creek and a low, damp meadow. The country becoming 'very different', fine, undulating terrain with poplar and willow in the low parts, Mespilus canadensis [?Amelanchier arborea or Amelanchier canadensis], rose and Rubus in the dry areas, the two latter 'shy in growth, the country being from time to time burned by the Indians'. Crossing two small, deep rivulets 'by means of throwing down two trees'. The plains submerged in water. Seeing horns of red deer and long-tailed deer [?white-tailed deer] and buffalo skulls lying on the ground

Reaching the Sturgeon River [Alberta, Canada] at 3pm, a small, deep, muddy stream, which had burst its banks. Taking two hours to make a raft using a small hatchet: 'I would not have lost 3 minutes in crossing, but my poor old guide was afraid the chilliness of the water would injure him, having perspired much, and on his account I assisted him in raft-making'. Being only nine miles from Fort Edmonton, 'my spirits revived, and I hastily tripped over the ground, and passed many muddy creeks and shallow sheets of water, wading to the middle'

The dark descending, hearing the 'evening howl of the sledge dogs, which to me was sweet music'. Seeing hearth fires alight in lodges near the establishment. Being covered with mud, returning for half a mile to a small lake to wash himself, 'and then comforted myself with a clean shirt, which I carried on my back in a bundle'. Being kindly received by Mr John Rowand [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, chief factor at Fort Edmonton]. Being given supper of fine moose-deer steak: 'most acceptable after a walk of 43 miles through a most wretched country without having anything to eat'. Meeting Mr McDonald [?Finan McDonald], who had taken Douglas's box the previous year: 'I now learn it had sustained injury, it having been broken. Will see it in the morning'. Rowand, thinking the specimen papers should be changed, had had them examined by Thomas Drummond ('now at Carlton House [Fort Carlton]'): 'this was kind'. Frosty morning, temperature 30°-49°, showery and windy

(22 May 1827) Tuesday. Too tired to sleep, rising at dawn to open the box. Finding the seeds in a better condition than expected 'from the trouble the person had before he reached this place', with only 18 papers having suffered, including ('I am exceedingly sorry to say') a Paeonia, one of the finest plants in the collection: 'it often happens that the best goes first'. Listing the seeds, including a species of Rubus, a perennial species of Anemone, a tall perennial species of Malva, a golden-yellow Lupinus and a shrubby species of Penstemon [here the journal includes a list of 10 more seeds]. 'Seeds or plants should be enclosed in soldered tin boxes to prevent wet or moisture, and placed in strong wooden boxes. Fortunately, my shirts were in the box, so they absorbed the moisture. However, from my very small stock being entirely rotten, I can at the moment ill spare them'

(23-26 May 1827) Wednesday-Saturday. Not seeing any mosses or many plants, apart from Viola canadensis, Viola pedata and a few Gramineae. Killing a small male pheasant and preserving it, the same species common on the dry sandy plains of the Columbia River. The country undulating, with low stunted pines, Populus, Betula and Salix growing on the riverbanks

John Rowand giving Douglas a fine young calumet eagle [golden eagle], brought from the Cootanie [Kutenai] lands on the Rocky Mountains, near the headwaters of Saskatchewan River [North Saskatchewan River]: 'his plumage is much destroyed by the boys, who had deprived him of those in the tail that were just coming to their true colour. Many strange stories are told of this bird as to strength and ferocity, such as carrying off young deer entire, killing full-grown long-tailed deer [?white-tailed deer] and so on'. Having seen other birds abandoning their prey, 'manifesting the utmost terror' at the approach of a Calumet eagle. The tail feathers being highly prized as decoration for war caps and other garments: 'the pipe-stem is also decorated with them, hence comes the name [calumet is the name for a ceremonial or peace pipe]'. The birds being abundant in the Rocky Mountains, with a few seen on the coastal mountains south of the Columbia River in the winter. The birds being caught by means of digging a deep pit in the ground for the hunter to sit in, covering it with sticks, straw, grass and earth and placing a piece of meat attached to a length of string above the pit: 'the bird, on eyeing the prey, instantly descends, and while his talons are fastened in the flesh, the hunter pulls bird and flesh into the pit. Scarcely an instance is known of it failing in the hunt'. The hunter protecting his hands and arms with strong deerskin leather sleeves. The eagles building their in inaccessible rock clefts, having two young at a time in June or July: 'this one had been taken only a few days after hatching, and is now docile. The boys, who have been in the habit of teasing him for some time past, having ruffled his temper, I took and caged him with some difficulty'

Having a new box made for his seeds and another one for his 'journals, portfolio, and sundry articles', but finding no lock to put on it. The river 400 yards wide, with high, clay and mud banks: 'coal is found in abundance'

(26-31 May 1827) Saturday-Thursday. Edward Ermatinger being asked to 'indulge us with a tune on the violin', accompanied by dancing as a farewell party for Douglas: 'I could not do less than endeavour to please by jumping, for dance I could not. The evening passed away pleasantly enough'. Having breakfast at 5am and embarking on John Stuart and John Rowand's boat. A warm and pleasant day. Stopping at dusk to cook supper. Tying their two boats together, and sleeping in them, drifting all night, deeming it too unsafe to sleep at the camp by the fire, due to the 'hostile intentions' of the Stone Indians [Assiniboine]. Douglas 'finding this mode of travelling very irksome', having to stay on the boat apart from stopping for breakfast and supper at dusk: 'I began to think this sort of travelling ill adapted for botanising'

Stopping for breakfast at Dogrose Creek [unidentified]. Finding Ribes hudsonianum, mentioned by John Richardson in John Franklin's journal. The country 'much better', with small hills, poplars and rocks. Chasing after and killing two swimming red deer at dusk. Seeing a 'huge' grizzly bear ('unsuccessful in killing him') and several small plain wolves [?coyote or Great Plains wolf]. Passing the abandoned establishment of Fort Vermilion [Paint Creek House, former Hudson's Bay Company trading post on North Saskatchewan River, Alberta, Canada]. After Bear Hill [unidentified] and Red Deer Hill [unidentified], the country becoming 'pastoral and highly adorned by nature'. The soil dry and light, 'not unfertile'

Seeing five large buffalo bulls by the river on Wednesday morning. John Harriott ('a skilful hunter') killing two and wounding two more: 'all would have fallen, had not some of the others imprudently given them the wind'. Seeing a herd of buffaloes 50 miles further down. Killing deer and prong-horned antelopes. Skinning one of the antelopes, but being unable to preserve the hair on it: 'this little animal is remarkably curious in his disposition. On seeing you, he will at first give 3 or 4 jumps from you, return slowly up to within a 100 or a 150 yards, stand, give a snort, and again jump backwards. A red handkerchief or white shirt, in fact any vivid colour, will attract them out. Hunters crawl to them on all 4s [fours], raising the back like a quadruped walking, and readily kill them'

(1 Jun 1827) A party of hunters setting out at dawn in search of the buffaloes seen the previous day. Douglas following them 'most willingly, not for the purpose of hunting, but gathering plants'. Finding Phlox hoodii. Arranging specimens of Diadelphia and Gramineae. Returning to the camp 'well pleased'. Having supper earlier than usual, and continuing the journey

John Harriott, Edward Ermatinger and three hunters killing two large buffaloes: 'seeing their boat at the side of the river and no one in it, gave us to know they had all gone for the meat, and we put on shore'. A party with Finan McDonald sent to help the hunters, finding Harriott and Ermatinger chasing after a wounded bull: 'the animal, which had suffered less injury than was expected, turned and gave chase to Mr McDonald', striking him on his thigh and pitching him in the air: 'the wound sustained was a dreadful laceration, literally laying open the whole back part of the thigh to the bone'. The bull continuing the attack, 'he laid hold of his wig (his own words) and hung on: man and bull sank the same instant. His companions had the melancholy sensation of standing to witness their companion mangled and could give no assistance, all their ball being fired'. Not expecting McDonald to survive, his companions returning to the camp to inform the others and to fetch guns. Returning to the scene, Douglas intervening to stop some 'half-breed hunters' from firing at the bull, in case McDonald was still alive. A shot going off by accident, 'and had the good fortune to raise the bull, first sniffing his victim, turning him gently over, and walking off'. Douglas finding McDonald still alive, 'but quite senseless', having been injured on his left-hand side, having been saved by a shot-pouch made of sealskin against his heart: 'the horn went through the pouch, coat, vest, flannel, and cotton shirts, and bruised the skin and broke two ribs', his thigh cut and his left wrist dislocated. Douglas bleeding him ('my lancet being always in my pocket like a watch'), having his wounds bandaged and giving him 25 drops of laudanum. McDonald being taken to Carlton [Fort Carlton], in the hope that Dr John Richardson would be there

The following day several more buffaloes being killed: 'from what I had seen, my desire of seeing such dreadful brutes cooled'. Collecting plants. Arriving at Carlton House on the afternoon of 3 Jun, and being received 'with politeness' by Mr Pruden [John Peter Pruden, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, chief factor at Fort Carlton]. Finding Thomas Drummond, having come down with Richardson in the spring, and Richardson himself at Cumberland House. Drummond telling Douglas about his travels, saying he had received a note from Joseph Sabine about Phlox hoodii: 'he appears to have done well [here a section in the manuscript is crossed out and illegible]. I must state he liberally showed me a few of the plants in his possession, birds, animals etc in the most unreserved manner'

(4 Jun 1827) Monday. Walking around the establishment with Thomas Drummond's guidance. Learning 'with regret' that his journey overland to the Swan River and Red River would not be possible, as two horses would be required to carry his papers, blanket and food ('unsafe to have one in the event of dying'), and there was uncertainty over where the Stone Indians [Assiniboine] were ('in the event of their meeting me, mine would beyond any doubt be a done career'). 'One of the Canadian servants' had been murdered less than four miles away a month ago: 'his gun and horses taken, and his body left stripped. The villain, who committed this horrid deed was, I am informed, kept during the winter in food, being an object of pity, and his family starving, and on his quitting in spring manifested his ingratitude by perpetrating the foulest of crimes'

Douglas deciding to proceed to Norway House [Hudson's Bay Company trading post on Lake Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada], hoping to visit Red River from there, 'in preference to going by Canada or the States, both being monstrously costly'. Preferring to stay at Carlton House, but unable to do so, fearing that remaining 'might be looked on as an encroachment by him [Thomas Drummond, as a rival botanist]'. In addition, with no Hudson's Bay Company boats, the only travel opportunity being with Captain Back [George Back, British sailor and explorer, serving as commander on John Franklin's expedition to the MacKenzie River in 1824-1826] returning from Great Bear Lake [Northwest Territories, Canada], and Douglas being aware that 'from the embarrassed state of their boats with their own collection, which I learn with pleasure is grand, it is doubtful if they could accommodate me. For these reasons I now go to Cumberland'

(5-9 Jun 1827) Tuesday-Saturday. The route from Carlton House [Fort Carlton] to Cumberland House being too well known to write down, and the journey 'admits of little variety'. Beyond the place known as the Women's Encampment [?near Cole Rapids, Saskatchewan, Canada], 80 miles below Carlton on the left-hand side of the river, the 'pastoral and rich verdure' being replaced by low, dense, marshy woods, composed of Pinus banksiana, Pinus rubra [?Pinus sylvestris, Pinus resinosa or Picea rubens], Pinus alba [Picea glauca], Betula, Populus and Salix, with Carices and Gramineae growing on the marshes. Rainy and windy. Collecting some plants

Arriving at Cumberland House on Saturday at 5pm, and being 'kindly welcomed' by Mr J. Leith [James Leith, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, chief factor at Cumberland House]. Meeting John Richardson, 'safe from his second hazardous journey from the shores of the Polar Sea. Every man must feel for the hardship and difficulties which he endured and overcame, and the successful termination of the perilous undertakings'. Seeing Richardson's 'splendid herbarium and superior collection in almost every department of natural history'. Richardson saying George Back would have given Douglas a passage, had he stayed at Carlton House [Fort Carlton], and approving of Douglas's plans of going to Red River and sailing from Hudson's Bay: 'could do nothing going to Canada [the British colonies of Upper Canada and Lower Canada, known collectively as the Canadas, 1791-1841, comprised Southern Ontario, parts of Northern Ontario, United States of America, and Quebec and Labrador, Canada; the part Douglas was travelling through to Hudson Bay was known as Rupert's Land]'

(10 Jun 1827) Examining and admiring Thomas Drummond's collections from the Rocky Mountains, and seeing 'many fine alpine plants', including new species of Dryas, Potentilla, Juncus, Salix, Saxifraga and Menziesia, and a 'superior collection' of Musci. Looking around the establishment. The ground marshy and densely wooded. The doctor [John Richardson] promising to take letters to England from Norway House, should Douglas travel to Red River

(11-16 Jun 1827) Monday-Saturday. The country uniform, with dense, low, wet woods and muddy banks. Collecting a species of Salix and Carex: 'no place for botanising'. Reaching Grand Rapid [Grand Rapids, Manitoba, Canada] at dusk on the second day. Walking through the wood, while the boats descended the rapids. Having to stay for a day to repair one of the boats, having struck rocks. Collecting plants in the woods. Killing a 'fine' large male pelican and preserving the skin: 'the mischievous boys tore the neck and otherwise injured it'. Killing and preserving a small plover

Windy and sleety. Not rising until midday. Embarking at sunset and entering Lake Winnipeg [Manitoba, Canada]. Not getting any sleep, but 'charmed by the mournful cries of the northern diver [common loon]'. Stopping for breakfast at 8am on a cold, pure white limestone beach. Finding gulls' eggs on the small rocky islands. Having to land towards noon due to high winds. Collecting some Musci. Continuing the journey the following morning at dawn with a fair wind. Passing Mossy Point [Warren Landing, Manitoba, Canada] with steep muddy banks and rotten moss

Stopping for breakfast at the old Norway House at 1pm. Arriving at 8pm at the new Norway House, 18 miles further down on Jackfish River [Jack River, Manitoba, Canada]. Finding his 'old friend' John McLeod ('who last year carried my letters across from the Columbia') and John George McTavish ('from whom I had much kindness'). Receiving a letter from Joseph Sabine, dated 10 Mar [1827] in London, with the good news that Douglas's collections had arrived safely from the Columbia. Receiving letters from William Booth, Stewart Murray, William Jackson Hooker and his brother [John Douglas], 'the latter affording me but news of a melancholy cast' [?possibly news of the death of Douglas's father, John Douglas]

(17 Jun 1827) Governor George Simpson arriving from Montreal. Greeting Douglas with 'friendly attentions and kind offices. Seeing me perhaps rather indifferently clothed, he offered me some linen etc, which I refused, at the same time extremely indebted to him'. Changing specimen papers. Arranging plants [specimens 1-94] collected on the descent of the Saskatchewan River [North Saskatchewan River] from Fort Edmonton to Norway House, including a species of Linum ('[perennial], flowers blue. In dry, light, elevated soils. In solitary plants, 1 foot to 18 inches high'), Lithospermum canescens ('on the plains in gravelly soils. 1 foot high. Flowers bright yellow'), Juncus arcticus ('in the marshes'), a species of Draba ('[annual], abundant around Carlton [Fort Carlton]') and a species of Alnus ('glutinous. On the Grand Rapid [Grand Rapids, Manitoba, Canada]') [here the journal includes a list of 89 more plants]

[The following page is blank; the preceding section was presumably sent to England from Norway House]

(2 Jul 1827) Monday. Being ready to leave at 3pm, 'but being lumbered much more than expectation, a place for Augustus [?the golden eagle] could not be found. He had therefore to remain at Norway House'. Taking a packet of letters to deliver to the Red River Settlement [Red River Colony or Selkirk Settlement, later Manitoba, Canada], 'and a box containing church ornaments for the Roman Catholic bishop'. Sending the calumet eagle [golden eagle] to Hudson Bay with Mr Ross [Alexander Ross, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader], 'wild fowl and other meat being scarce, and as he will not eat fish, I was unable to keep him at the latter place'. Leaving the white-headed [?bald eagle] under the temporary care of 'a woman attached to the establishment'. Leaving his collections from the Saskatchewan River [North Saskatchewan River] and the roots and bulbs from the Columbia River in a 'well-secreted place in the wood, contained in a folded piece of birch bark, fearing the mice may find them' and in a paper bag, 'hung up to the roof of the house with some bird skins'

Setting off at 4pm. A pleasant day. Camping 18 miles above the establishment at 8pm. Rain and thunder in the evening and at night

(3 Jul 1827) Tuesday. A cool and calm morning. Setting off 3.15am, 'and went on very prosperously, there being no swell on the lake'. Stopping for breakfast on a small rock and resuming the journey after an hour, until dusk. The lake shores muddy peat, sandy and gravelly, with some granite visible, and numerous shallow pools or small lakes. Seeing Pinus alba [Picea glauca], Pinus banksiana, Pinus rubra [?Pinus sylvestris, Pinus resinosa or Picea rubens], Pinus balsamea [Abies balsamea], Populus trepida [?Populus tremuloides], Betula and several species of Salix. Collecting two species of Corydalis, one on the Assiniboine portage [Manitoba, Canada], yellow-flowered and glaucous-leaved, the other an upright-growing, strong species with purple flowers. 'Laid in' specimens of Potentilla and Gramineae. Camping on a small rocky island

(4 Jul 1827) Wednesday. High winds nearly blowing the tent down. In the rain, the captain [John Franklin] supporting the poles inside, while the doctor [John Richardson] and Douglas went to search of large stones to support the tent, the pegs being of no use on the rock: 'before we had accomplished this, we were well drenched, and as the fire was washed out, each crept under his blankets until day'. The rain stopping by the morning, setting off at 5am. Travelling for four hours before having to stop for shelter in a small rocky bay due to strong wind and heavy surge: 'these stoppages give a few moments for collecting, shifting and drying paper'. Continuing the journey at 3pm. Camping at dark on a small rocky island near Pigeon River [Manitoba, Canada]. Arranging plants, including Poa, Carex and Potentilla

(5 Jul 1827) Thursday. 'Had a fine camp last night'. Preferring to sleep by the fire on the rock with a breeze, rather than be annoyed by mosquitoes. Not being able to leave until 10am due to wind. 'Laying in' Phlox linearis [?Collomia biflora]. Having to stop by a small muddy creek. Not collecting anything, but drying papers at the fire. The shore low and marshy

(6 Jul 1827) Friday. A light wind and drizzly rain. 'Made a good day's march'. Camping on a small island. Finding a perennial species of Cerastium, a perennial species of Apocynum and an annual Silene. Seeing Quercus for the first time, with stunted trees of Quercus obtusiloba [Quercus stellata] and small Fraxinus pubescens [Fraxinus pennsylvanica]. A fine, dewy evening

(7 Jul 1827) Saturday. Setting off at 5am. Stopping at 9am due to high winds, although the lake was only three and a half miles wide at that point, with heavy waves breaking over white limestone shores. Finding plants in the woods, including Pyrola rotundifolia, Pyrola uniflora [Moneses uniflora], a species of Vicia, Orchis and Solanum [here the journal includes a list of three more plants]. Being annoyed by the wind blowing smoke whilst drying paper at the fire

(8 Jul 1827) Sunday. Setting off at 6am. Passing several high limestone cliffs. Stopping for breakfast on a low sandy shore. Seeing plenty of Utricularia in flower in the still waters. Continuing the journey for another 12 or 14 miles. Stopping for 'changing linen'. Arriving at Fort Alexander, or 'Basch' on Winnipeg River [Ontario and Manitoba, Canada]: 'the Riviera of the voyageurs'. Being welcomed by Mr John McDonald [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, chief factor at Fort Alexander] ('a brother of the person [?Finan McDonald], who crossed the Rocky Mountains last autumn'), and meeting Rev Mr Picard from the Roman Catholic Mission [Thomas-Ferruce Picard Destroismaisons, priest and missionary stationed at Red River], both on their way to Canada

(9 Jul 1827) Monday. Having a large fire made early in the morning to dry papers. Changing all specimen papers before breakfast. Writing a short letter to Governor Clinton of New York [DeWitt Clinton, naturalist and governor of New York] to say he intended to sail from Hudson Bay to England. John Franklin and John Richardson setting off in their canoe for Canada at 10am, taking with them Thomas-Ferruce Picard, who had not been able to travel with Hudson's Bay Company canoes and barges. Feeling 'obliged' to Franklin ('good man')

Walking around the establishment collecting plants. Heavy showers, thunder and lightning. The scenery fine, rich and beautiful, the country low, level and 'well-wooded', the soil a deep fertile alluvial loam. Asking John McDonald to hire him a small canoe for Red River. Neil McDonald ('the person who accompanied Captain Franklin') [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader. He accompanied John Franklin on his expedition to the Canadian Arctic 1825-1827] offering to take Douglas in his canoe, but finding it too small for all of their luggage. Douglas hiring 'a Canadian' ('the Indians being camped a considerable distance from the place, and all at this season being much engaged'), to take him for four dollars and his food. Making arrangements for leaving the following morning

(10 Jul 1827) Tuesday. Being delayed until 10am due to high winds and swells too heavy for the small canoe. Descending the river to the lake with the man and their provisions. Pleasant, clear weather. Travelling along the western shore, wooded and flooded in many places. Not seeing any plants. Seeing flocks of passenger pigeons [a species extinct by 1914]. Camping at dusk on a gravelly beach near a small creek. Purchasing birch bark for his specimens ('serving instead of pasteboard') from visiting Indians

(11 Jul 1827) Wednesday. Setting off at 6am, the violent wind in the night having abated. Travelling in the canoe among large species of Arundo, Scirpus, Typha and Carex. Encountering a low projecting point at 10am and deciding to stop for breakfast, being worried about wetting his papers if he crossed it. Arranging and drying the plants collected in the sun. Taking a short walk in the woods: 'unable to paddle any further myself, yesterday's labour having put both my hands in sheets of blisters'. Crossing the point at 2.30pm, the wind having eased. Travelling west among brushwood and grass, sheltering from the wind. Not seeing many aquatic birds

Entering Red River [Manitoba, Canada] at 6pm, five or seven miles above the lake, 'having, as I stated before, cut the overflowed points'. The river 'considerable', 250-300 yards wide, deep and muddy with low banks of deep black alluvial earth. The riverbanks sparsely wooded with Alnus, Platanus, Quercus alba and Acer. Collecting Gramineae, Utricularia, Polygonym and Asclepias. A cloudy evening with many mosquitoes

(12 Jul 1827) Thursday. A cool, dewy morning. Setting off at 3am up the river. Passing several 'thinly planted' low houses at sunrise, with small herds of cattle: 'humble and peasant-like as these may appear to many, to me, who have been no sharer of civilised society for a considerable time past, they impart a pleasant sensation'. Stopping for breakfast at 7am below the rapid. Leaving the canoe and his luggage to go by land with his 'boards and paper'. Strangers seeming to be rare in the area: 'scarcely a house I passed without an invitation to enter, more particularly from the Scottish settlers, who no doubt judging from my coat (being clothed in the Stewart or royal tartan) imagined me a son from the bleak dreary mountains of Scotland, and I had many questions put to me regarding the country, which now they only see through ideal recollection'. The people seeming to live comfortably, with 'the means of subsistence by little exertion'

Walking along the north bank of the river. Passing the missionary establishment at 2pm, hearing the bell ring 'for the boys to assemble to school'. Seeing two children, four to six years old, playing. Asking them if they were scholars and what they read at school: 'the elder, who was the spokesman, said 'I read the parables, and he (pointing to the younger) reads Tom Bowles [an educational story to teach Christianity and morals for young children]'. This all pleasing, I presented them with a few trifling articles, when as soon as they manifested their thanks by a low bow, they galloped off to their companions, who flocked round them to hear their story'

Passing a large windmill, and seeing Fort Garry [Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada] at the junction of the Assiniboine River [Manitoba and Saskatchewan, Canada] and the Red River, among large oaks, with the Roman Catholic church and mission on the opposite side, 'both forming a fine effect'. Visiting the establishment and introducing himself to Donald McKenzie, the governor of the colony [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, explorer, governor of the Red River Colony]. Being received with 'great kindness'. McKenzie preparing a tea for Douglas, and Douglas enjoying 'a large tureen of fine milk'. Giving McKenzie George Simpson's note, 'but found that a note was unnecessary with Mr McKenzie. His conversation to me is the more acceptable from the intimate knowledge he possesses of the country west of the Rocky Mountains'. McKenzie having ascended Missouri River in 1819, crossing the continent to the mouth of the Columbia River with an 'American party' [Astorian expedition, 1811], including Mr Nuttall [Thomas Nuttall] and Bradbury [John Bradbury, botanist], and travelled south of the Columbia beyond the Spanish settlements. Sharing the 'fatigues and hardships' with Douglas: 'but his was more than usual, being the first who ventured on these untrodden wilds'

Being visited by Spokane Garry, 'an Indian boy, native of the Columbia, who is receiving his education at the missionary school' [also known as Slough-Keetcha, son of the tribal chief of the Middle Spokanes, called Spokane Garry on leaving to attend school after his people and the deputy governor of Hudson's Bay Company, Nicholas Garry]. The boy asking after his father and brothers, who Douglas had seen, speaking good English, and having almost forgotten his mother tongue Spokane. Douglas sending his box and letters to the bishop. A fine evening

(13 Jul 1827) Friday. Arranging plants and drying papers. Collecting a few plants on a short evening walk. Showery, with thunder and lightning

(14 Jul 1827) Making a short excursion up Assiniboine River before breakfast. Being visited by Monseigneur J.N. Provenchier, the bishop of the Roman Catholic Mission [Joseph-Norbert Provencher, bishop at the Red River Colony], Rev Theophilus Harper [unidentified] and Mr Buchier [Francois Boucher] ('a young ecclesiastic'), making 'a long stay'. The bishop speaking good English, 'but with that broken accent peculiar to foreigners'. Harper speaking English as fluently as his native language French: 'they conversed in the most unreserved, affable manner', inquiring about the places Douglas had visited: 'I have some reason to think well of their visit, being the first ever paid to any individual, except the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company. I am much delighted with the meek, dignified appearance of the bishop, a man considerably above 6 feet and proportionally stout, appears to be a man of the most profound acquirements, seen only through the thick rut of his great modesty'. Going for a walk in the evening to collect plants

(15 Jul 1827) Sunday. Going to church to listen to a sermon by Rev David T. Jones, minister of the English church [missionary and Anglican minister at Red River]. With no clock in the colony and the people spread out wide, 'the hour of the day is guessed by the sun'. Douglas missing the beginning of the service, having got lost. Being spotted by the clergyman from a window, a boy being sent to fetch him: 'this struck me as the man of the world who, in the parable, was compelled to go to the feast by the person stationed on the wayside'. Jones receiving Douglas 'with every demonstration of kindness' after the service, inviting him to his house. Returning at midday to arrange plants. Warm and cloudy

(16 Jul 1827) Monday. Arranging plants [specimens 107-180] collected on the journey from Norway House, including Populus trepida [?Populus tremuloides] from Lake Winnipeg [Manitoba, Canada], a species of Poa ('[perennial], a fine, low-growing plant in rocky places. Abundant at Norway House, Lake Winnipeg'), Vaccinium buxifolium [Vaccinium triflorum] ('in dry open and rocky situations. Abundant at Norway House'), a perennial species of Carex and Pyrola chlorantha [here the journal includes a list of 68 more plants]

(17 Jul 1827) Tuesday. Showery, with thunder and lightning. Collecting plants [specimens 181-186], including a species of Monarda ('18 inches to 2 feet high. In most dry light soils, common. Flowers pink colour'), two species of Astralagus, a species of Penstemon ('leaves sessile, minutely serrated, smooth. Flowers fine light blue. 1 to 2 feet high. In solitary tufts, interspersed over all the dry soils. This will I think prove one of Nuttall's [Thomas Nuttall] Missouri plants, perhaps serrulatus [Penstemon serrulatus]'), 'Helonias?' ('on the plains, in great abundance') and a species of Allium ('flowers rose colour. On the plains, very common')

(18 Jul 1827) Wednesday. Receiving an invitation to dine with the bishop [Joseph-Norbert Provencher] at the mission house. Collecting some plants in the morning [specimens 187-194], including 'Lobelia inflata?' ('common, on moist ground'), a species of Galium ('[perennial], abundant everywhere'), a species of Polygonum ('on marshy ground, a strong plant'), a species of Spiraea ('a small shrub. On banks of streams, common') and a species of Linum ('[perennial], flowers blue. On the plains. Rare, in solitary tufts') [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants]

Spending a pleasant evening with the bishop. Being shown his garden, farm, church and mission establishment, 'which reflects great credit on its conductor. The aborigines and Bules [Bois-Brules, French- or Michif-speaking Metis of the Red River Colony] have not only a religious education, but are taught domestic economy, farming, spinning and weaving cloth from the wool of the buffalo'. The buildings having been damaged by flood the previous year: 'from the pressing state of the church funds, the most rigid economy is required to keep the mission alive'

(19 Jul 1827) Thursday. Rain: 'shifting papers etc'

(20 Jul 1827) Friday. Making a short trip to 'The Pines', a small area of undulating country a few miles from the river. Collecting plants [specimens 195-209], including several species of Gramineae, a species of Apocynum ('1 to 2 feet high. Flowers pink colour. In moist low places. This is found over the whole continent, much stronger on the west side'), a species of Viburnum ('a strong shrub. On the moist banks of rivers and thin woods. Rare'), a species of Hedysarum ('[perennial], 1 to 2 feet high. On low moist plains, seen sparingly in small tufts among the short grass') and a perennial species of Anemone [here the journal includes a list of 9 more plants]

(21 Jul 1827) Saturday. Collecting plants on Assiniboine River, 'after the daily shifting and drying papers' [specimens 210-217], including a species of Quercus ('may prove Quercus alba. This is one of the few trees that adorn the Red River, which appears to be its most northern range [of growth]. 40 to 60 feet high, 18 inches to 2 feet diameter. The wood is soft and liable to become shaky'), a species of Vitis ('this would appear to be the most northern boundary of this genus. All that have come under my observation are enervated, stunted plants, and none in fruit, although I am given to believe they bear in favourable seasons'), a species of Scutellaria ('[annual], in moist ground. Abundant'), a species of Mentha ('disagreeable foetid scent') and an unnamed plant ('[annual], an inconspicuous small plant, found abundantly everywhere') [here the journal includes a list of 4 more plants]

(22 Jul 1827) Sunday. Attending the morning service at church. Arranging plants in the evening

(23-24 Jul 1827) Monday-Tuesday. Setting off for Whitehorse Plain [St Francois Xavier, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada], 18 miles up the Assiniboine River with Rev Harper from the Roman Catholic Mission. The country similar to that on the banks of the Red River. Staying the night at the house of Mr Grant [unidentified]: '[we] were very civilly entertained'. Returning at dusk on Tuesday. Collecting plants [specimens 218-234], including Potentilla fruticosa [Dasiphora fruticosa] ('frequents elevated, dry, light soils or limestone rocks'), a species of Solanum ('[annual], rare. Flowers yellow. Found only one plant near an old camp'), several species of Hedysarum, a species of Lysimachia ('[perennial], abundant near springs') and Alisma plantago [identification unresolved as at Oct 2018] ('in springs and pools') [here the journal includes a list of 11 more plants]

(25-27 Jul 1827) Wednesday-Friday. Collecting plants around the establishment [specimens 235-251], including a species of Triglochin ('in low saline marshes, abundant'), a species of Aspidium ('in shady places near springs, abundant'), a species of Eupatorium ('[perennial], a strong upright plant. Frequenting moist meadows on the outskirts of woods and river springs'), Hordeum jubatum ('abundant on all the dry plains') and a species of Carex ('large root, tuberous. In all moist places') [here the journal includes a list of 11 more plants]

(28 Jul 1827) Saturday. Rainy. Drying papers. Visiting Mr Logan [Robert Logan, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, settler at Red River]

(29 Jul 1827) Sunday. Hot and sultry, with thunder in the evening. Attending a service at the Roman Catholic church and listening to a sermon by Rev Mr Harper: 'music good'

(30-31 Jul 1827) Monday-Tuesday. 'Much indisposed: violent headache and feverish'. Mr Richard Julian Hamlyn, the surgeon at the company and colony, giving Douglas medication

(1 Aug 1827) Wednesday. Setting off at dawn on horseback for a small limestone hill 16-18 miles away. Seeing some low poplars, willow and birch in low places. Having to go around by Sturgeon Creek [Manitoba, Canada] on the Assiniboine River to avoid the flooded plains by the Red River. Returning late. Collecting plants [specimens 252-268], including a species of Juncus ('dry elevated spots'), a species of Gramineae ('[perennial], 1 to 2 1/2 feet high. Common on all dry soils. Gives great annoyance to the traveller, the seeds sticking in the trousers and moccasins, and accumulating in large masses on the feet'), a species of Prunus ('a low shrub, flowers white. Fruit bitter and astringent'), a species of Solidago ('a strong species, outskirts of woods and banks of streams') and a species of Pedicularis ('flowers yellow. On the low meadows, abundant. Fine plant') [here the journal includes a list of 11 more plants']

(2-4 Aug 1827) Thursday-Saturday. Collecting plants, weather permitting [specimens 269-287], including a species of Pteris ('small. In the dry crevices of limestone rocks, abundant'), a species of Gerardia ('[annual], on the low damp grounds, abundant'), a perennial species of Potentilla, a species of Aster ('[perennial], small. Flowers white. Rare') and a species of Liatris ('flowers rose colour. Abundant on dry soils and on limestone rocks') [here the journal includes a list of 13 more plants]

(5 Aug 1827) Sunday. Heavy rain, thunder and lightning at night, cool and fine morning. Going to church to listen to a sermon by Rev David T. Jones. Spending the evening dining at Jones' house

(6 Aug 1827) Monday. Collecting plants, including a species of Gramineae ('[perennial], common in all moist grounds near springs'), two species of Helianthus ('[perennial], leaves lanceolate, rough. Flowers large, yellow. A strong plant, 3 to 6 feet high. Abundant in all fertile soils. This is what is called the 'Indian potato' by the Canadian voyageurs, a worthless insipid root, nothing compared to Jerusalem artichoke'), and a species of Betula ('small shrub. In dry limestone rocks, abundant. In fruit')

(7 Aug 1827) Tuesday. Drying and arranging the collection. Donald McKenzie organising 'ample stock of provisions' for Douglas's departure and enquiring about the departure of the boat

(8 Aug 1827) Wednesday. Finishing packing and arranging plants. Taking a short walk in the afternoon

(9 Aug 1827) Thursday. Thunder and rain in the morning, dry and windy the rest of the day. Going for a walk, but not wanting to go far, 'lest an opportunity should offer of getting away'

(10 Aug 1827) Friday. A fine morning. Donald McKenzie intending to send a boat to Norway House. Douglas deciding to take the boat, instead of waiting for the other boats, not wanting to miss the ship at Hudson Bay. David Jones and Rev Mr Cockran [William Cockran, missionary and Anglican minister at Red River] giving him small packages to take to Hudson Bay and England: 'both these gentlemen have shown me much civility. A few seeds from the Society would be of great benefit to the missionary establishment, and would be thankfully received'. Being grateful for the 'polite attentions' of McKenzie. Saying goodbye to McKenzie and the bishop [Joseph-Norbert Provencher]. Leaving with Richard Julian Hamlyn for Hudson Bay

Being delayed on the descent of the river by requests to convey letters and other items for Hudson Bay. Being given cheese, 'which I could not well refuse'. Visiting James Bird [James Curtis Bird, retired Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, former chief factor at Red River], living 'a considerable way' down the river and receiving a letter from him for Joseph Sabine: 'I forgot to mention a week ago, being near his house on one of my walks, I called on him and he received me with civility and attention', offering tea and saying Sabine had mentioned in an earlier letter the possibility of Douglas's visit. Camping a few miles below the rapid. Collecting two species of Artemisia and some other plants

(11 Aug 1827) Saturday. Thunder and lightning at dawn. Setting off at 5am down the river and reaching the lake at 8am. Travelling along the south-west coast for 15 miles. Stopping on a small sandy island to boil the tea kettle. Collecting two fine Gramineae, a species of Fraxinus and a perennial species of Hieracium. Seeing a species of Prunus, called sand-cherry by the voyageurs, growing luxuriantly on gravelly places and limestone rocks on the Red River, with large fruit: 'appears to be astringent, but if only for novelty is worthy of a place in the garden'

Continuing the journey until 3pm. Strong winds making it difficult to cross a deep bay. Landing on a low, sparsely wooded island at 5.30pm: 'our poor men exhausted, and myself somewhat anxious'. The water appearing to have risen much higher than previously, with trees 8-10 feet under water, and dead poplars standing in places which had formerly been islands. Changing specimen papers and drying plants

(12 Aug 1827) Sunday. The wind increasing 'to a perfect hurricane'. Having to sleep in the boat, the water rising to flood the camp. Setting off at 9am on largely calm waters. Travelling along the shores. Camping at 7pm after a 25-mile journey

(13 Aug 1827) Monday. Setting off at 2am by moonlight, the wind being favourable. Stopping at dawn for breakfast and to 'replace the things in the boat'. A cloudy and heavy morning with rain. Continuing the journey at 9am. Crossing to the south side of the lake, but having to land due to a south-westerly wind. Continuing four hours later in the gloomy weather. Having to stop and camp, the shore to the south-west being steep limestone rock with no opportunity to land. 'Nothing occurred'

(14 Aug 1827) Tuesday. A dull, cloudy and drizzly morning. Setting off at 5am across the lake. Stopping for breakfast at Dog's Head [Dog Head, Lake Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada] at 11.30am: 'delayed 46 minutes'. Passing Rabbit Point at 1pm, 'and a second at 4'. The wind turning, having to return to land on a small sandy beach: 'ere all the baggage was out, the waves were breaking on the shore with all the violence of a sea hurricane'. Arranging plants and drying papers in the evening and 'laid in' some fine specimens of plants in fruit, including Pyrola rotundifolia, Cornus canadensis and Artemisia. The boat having to be hauled up the shore, 'all our strength being inadequate to pull it up at once'. Writing the journal at 10pm in the increasingly violent wind

(15 Aug 1827) Wednesday. The morning clear and more moderate, but still unable to continue the journey. Finding specimens of Linnaea borealis in fruit: 'this is the first time I have ever seen this plant in this state'. John Scouler saying he had found one in 1825 in the shady forests at Nootka Sound [Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada]. The plant growing near his tent,' in sand that has been thrown on the shore by the lake storms, in partially shady situations'. Drying papers and arranging plants. Nowhere to walk, everywhere being a swamp. Continuing the journey at noon. Having to stop at 3pm after seven miles due to the wind. Camping on an exposed sandy beach: 'afternoon and evening the same'

(16 Aug 1827) Thursday. Stormy. Continuing the journey at 11am. Stopping for a few minutes at Banning's River [unidentified]. Hearing from Mr Spencer [?John Hodges Spencer, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] that the other boat from Red River had passed the previous night. Continuing the journey at 4pm in a favourable breeze, sailing along the shore until dawn, anxious not to lose more time

(17 Aug 1827) Friday. A rainy morning. Stopping for breakfast at 6am. Continuing with a strong breeze until 4pm. Crossing the narrow bay to Norway House. Finding John Stuart and Cameron [?John Dugald Cameron, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] 'on their way to winter quarters. Both these gentlemen showed me every kindness', informing Douglas that George Back had passed through two days previously on the way to Hudson Bay

(18 Aug 1827) Saturday. Leaving Norway House at 6am with Mr Joseph Bird [son of James Curtis Bird], intending to stay with him for the rest of the journey, the other boat returning to Red River. At 8am passing two canoes on Play Green Lake [Playgreen Lake, Manitoba, Canada] with 'the men belonging to the Land Arctic Expedition [?belonging to John Franklin's party] on their way to Montreal [Ontario, Canada]'. Making little progress with a strong contrary wind. Reaching the 'lower establishment' on Jack River at midday. Finding his 'old friend' John McLeod: 'learned with regret my silver-headed eagle had died of starvation', but finding everything else safe, including the roots hidden in the woods

(19 Aug 1827) Sunday. Packing and setting off at 10am in Joseph Bird's boat. Camping 25 miles down the river. The country low and swampy with small trees of Pinus banksiana, Pinus larix [Larix decidua], Betula and Populus. Seeing nothing new. Changing and drying specimen papers in the evening

(20 Aug 1827) Monday. Continuing the journey at 4am along Black Water Creek [Echimamish River, Manitoba, Canada], a narrow natural channel, with low swampy ground and small willows alongside it. Stopping for breakfast on a small rock at 10am. Rain at midday. Meeting Mr Evans [unidentified] 'of Red River', coming from Hudson Bay. Arriving at Painted Stone portage at dusk and passing over to White Water Creek [Hayes River, Manitoba, Canada] after dark. A fine evening. Seeing faint Aurora borealis

(21 Aug 1827) Tuesday. Dull and cloudy. Setting off before dawn. Passing through a small lake and creek. Stopping for breakfast at White Fall portage [Robinson portage, Manitoba, Canada] at 10am. The men carrying their belongings and dragging the boat over the portage, while Douglas arranged plants, including Umbellifera ('perhaps Aralia [Osmoxylon umbelliferum]'), Gentiana, Parnassia caroliniana and a species of Hydrocharis. Losing some plants from Lake Winnipeg [Manitoba, Canada] overboard. The White Fall being 'a small cataract with high rocks on one side, adorned by timber of low growth, insignificant, but at the same time worth going a few yards to see'. Continuing the journey at 4pm. Passing the upper or small Hill Gate [Manitoba, Canada] and lightening the boat before the rapid: 'navigation intricate'. Camping on rocks a mile below the rapid. A fine, dewy evening

(22 Aug 1827) Wednesday. Setting off at dawn. Reaching Hill Gate [Manitoba, Canada] at 7am, a rocky rapid part of the river: 'a considerable time was lost lowering the boat with the line'. The trees becoming smaller nearer the coast. Travelling through a chain of small lakes with low, marshy, flooded banks. Reaching Oxford Lake [Manitoba, Canada] at noon, a small and narrow but beautiful lake with bold rocky banks. Camping at dusk on one of the numerous islands after a 'fine day's journey'

(23 Aug 1827) Thursday. Thunder and lightning at night. Setting off early and reaching Oxford House [Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Manitoba, Canada] at 10am for breakfast. Receiving a letter from Mr Colin Robertson [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] ('one of the resident partners of the Company') regarding some bird skins left for Douglas at York [York Factory, Hudson's Bay Company trading post at Hudson Bay, Manitoba, Canada]: 'certainly much obliged, having never seen him nor had any correspondence. Wrote him a note of thanks'. Continuing the journey at 11am. Passing some 'very bad' rapids. Stopping at Trout Fall portage [Manitoba, Canada] and spending the rest of the day repairing the boat. Collecting plants

(24 Aug 1827) Friday. The boat still leaking, but continuing the journey through Knee Lake [Manitoba, Canada] with favourable wind. Stopping for breakfast on the lake near Tea Islands, 'so named from Ledum palustre being abundant on them'. The scenery fine, similar to Oxford Lake [Manitoba, Canada], with numerous islands. Camping at sunset by Lower Jack River [Hayes River, Manitoba, Canada], a narrow stream with low banks

(25 Aug 1827) Saturday. The boat being damaged in the low water. Passing through Swampy Lake [Manitoba, Canada] and then Hill River [Hayes River, Manitoba, Canada]. The boat breaking while descending a rapid: 'just had time to reach a small island, when she was filled. My hands tied up, could not get off'. Drying papers. Planting in a small box Erythronium grandiflorum, Lilium pudicum [Fritillaria pudica] and Claytonia lanceolata ('all fresh. Why did you not bring Gaultheria alive, across the continent, 2,900 miles? It could be done')

(26 Aug 1827) Sunday. Repairing the boat until 3pm, although it continued to leak afterwards. Camping a few miles below by a low hill

(27-28 Aug 1827) Monday-Tuesday. A dull morning, being delayed by the weather, unfavourable for passing the Rock Fall [Rock Depot, Hayes River, Manitoba, Canada]. Passing it safely at 7am. Stopping for breakfast at the junction of the Steel River [Hayes River, Manitoba, Canada] and York River [?Fox River, Manitoba, Canada]. Stopping again at dusk, and continuing the journey after boiling the kettle. Seeing beautiful Aurora borealis: 'the idea of finishing my journey, and expectations of hearing from England made the night pass swiftly'

Seeing the 'pleasing scene' of York Factory at sunrise, with the Hudson's Bay Company ship from England anchored by it. Being heartily welcomed by John George McTavish and other people: 'in the most polite manner, everything that could add to my comfort was instantly handed, and I adduce no further proof of this gentleman's goodness than to state that he had, without my knowledge, made for me a new suit of clothing, linen etc to put on'. No letters from England. Regretting the death of the calumet eagle [golden eagle], which had been strangled a few days previously by the cord which tethered it, and was found dead in the morning: 'what can give one more pain? This animal I carried 2,000 miles, and now lost him, I might say, [at] home'. Receiving a note from George Simpson. Meeting George Back, Lieutenant Kendall [Edward Nicholas Kendall, explorer and assistant surveyor on John Franklin's Arctic expedition in 1825-1827] and Thomas Drummond, who had arrived the previous day: 'it now only remains to state that I have had great assistance, civility, and friendly attentions from the various persons I have formed an acquaintance with during my stay in North America'.

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1 volume

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RHS archive: plant collector papers

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Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library

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Royal Horticultural Society

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RHS Lindley Collections

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