Second expedition of David Douglas: Journal 3
Information
Title - Second expedition of David Douglas: Journal 3
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/5/2/1/3
Date - 1 Mar 1826-28 Aug 1827
Scope & content - David Douglas's journal, on the Columbia River and across the continent of North America to Hudson Bay, Canada
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-85: Narrative of journey, 1 Mar-31 Aug 1826
Pages 97-240: Narrative of journey, 31 Aug 1826-28 Aug 1827
Physical description: Unbound manuscript enclosed in a 20th-century paper wrapper labelled 'D. Douglas, Journal of an expedition to NW America, March 1 1826 to Aug 28 1827. Originals – see watermark John Davis[?]'. The pages are in gatherings, with many loose pages and enclosures, including some pages with protruding edges. The edges of some of the pages are torn. There is a small burnt hole on pages 13-14. Fragile. Handle with care
The journal is divided into three parts, with separate original pagination for the first two parts; the third part is paginated in pencil by the editors of the 1914 transcription, continuing from the second part. The first part (paginated 1-85) was sent to England on 1 Sep 1826 from Fort Vancouver on Columbia River in Washington, United States of America, and the second part (originally paginated 1-103) was sent to England in June 1827 from Norway House in Manitoba, Canada, along with collections of specimens and seeds. The third part (paginated 104-131) ends with Douglas's arrival in England. The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
The volume is written on both rectos and versos in David Douglas's hand. There are annotations in pencil by the editors of the 1914 edition of Douglas's journal, clarifying spellings and sentence structures, a pencil title on the first page ('Douglas. Journal of Expedition to NW America, March 1, 1826-Aug 28, 1827') and a title in ink written in the same hand on the cover ('D. Douglas, Journal of an expedition to NW America, March 1, 1826 to Aug 28 1827. Originals – see watermark John Davis[?]'). The initial blank sheet is later, and includes a watermark 'Snelgrove 1833'
Illustrations: There is a small drawing of a sugar pine (page 29, within the entry of 26 Oct 1826)
Enclosures: The volume includes 12 inserted leaves, pasted in the gutter or loose within the pages, containing additional notes by Douglas, primarily relating to plants or animals (pages 9, 11, 15, 17, 17, 17, 22a, 22a-b, 24, 25, 33, 59)
Summary of contents:
(1-20 Mar 1826) Packing plants, birds 'and other things' in two boxes to be sent to England, and preparing for the journey to the interior. Constant rain, temperature 35°-55°, with westerly winds. With assistance from Mr McLoughlin [John McLoughlin, also known as Jean-Baptiste McLoughlin, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, chief factor at Fort Vancouver], packing up 30 quires of paper, weighing 102lbs, 'which, with the whole of my other articles, is by far more than I could expect when the difficulty and labour of transportation is taken into consideration'. Packing in a small tin box 197 seed papers, to be sent across the continent to Hudson's Bay [Hudson Bay, Canada]. Dried plants being too bulky to be sent on that route and more likely to reach England in good condition by sea, as otherwise the chests would have to be lined with 'tin or some such article, to preserve them against water, things which cannot be had in this country'
(20 Mar 1826) Leaving Fort Vancouver [Hudson Bay Company's trading post on the Columbia River, Vancouver, Washington, United States of America] in the afternoon along with John McLeod [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, explorer], on his way to Hudson's Bay, and Mr Francis Ermatinger [possibly in fact Francis's brother, Edward Ermatinger; both the brothers were Hudson's Bay Company fur traders], with 'two boats and 14 men'. A rainy day. Camping among poplars and willows on the north side of the river, a few miles from the establishment [Hudson's Bay company trading post]
Continuing the journey at dawn, but not managing to proceed more than 35 miles up the river in the strong easterly wind. Camping seven miles below the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Bonneville Dam]. Continuous rain.
Camping on a small, stony island ten miles above the rapids the following night. The rapids 'seen to advantage', the river being low, and the scenery 'grand beyond description', with high, pine-covered mountains: 'the rainbow from the vapour of the agitated water, which rushes with furious rapidity over shattered rocks and through deep caverns, producing an agreeable although at the same time a somewhat melancholy echo through the thick wooded valley. The reflections from the snow on the mountains, together with the vivid green of the gigantic pines, form a contrast of rural grandeur that can scarcely be surpassed'
(23 Mar 1826) Thursday. Strong westerly wind. Continuing the journey at dawn. Reaching the lower part of the Dalles [Columbia River, Washington] at dusk, six miles below the Great Falls [Celilo Falls, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Dalles Dam]. Camping in a small cove under a 'shelving rock'. A fine, pleasant night with moonlight. 'As the natives had collected in greater numbers than expectation, and showed some disposition to be troublesome, not getting such a large present of tobacco as they want, we were under the necessity of watching the whole night'. Using some of his remaining wax tapers [candles] ('which I lay great value on') for writing a note to Mr Murray at Glasgow [Stewart Murray, curator of the Glasgow Botanic Gardens]. Arranging Musci collected the previous day
(24 Mar 1826) Friday. Relieved in the morning, 'after a tedious night [...] being surrounded by at least 450 savages, and [who] judging from appearances, [were] everything but amicable. As no one in the brigade could converse with them better than myself, little could be done by persuasion'. Finding two men who understood the Cheenook tongue, 'with which I am partially acquainted' [Chinookan is a language group comprising several now extinct languages, and Chinook jargon, with which Douglas was familiar, was used as a pidgin trade language in the Pacific Northwest in the 19th century]
Having breakfast at 7am on the rocks at the Dalles [Columbia River, Washington], four miles below the Great Falls [Celilo Falls]. A clear, pleasant day. Crossing the falls at 5pm, 'where we found the Indians very troublesome'. John McLeod saying they were intending to pillage the boats. Presenting them with tobacco and being asked by them to camp for the night, 'no doubt expecting to effect their purpose. The first thing that was observed was their cunningly throwing water on the gun locks, and on the boats being ordered to be put in the water, they refused to allow them'. One of the men threatening to shoot McLeod with a bow and arrow: 'as I was standing on the outside of the crowd, I perceived it and as no time was to be lost, I instantly slipped the cover off my gun, which at the time was charged with buckshot, and presented it at him, and invited him to fire his arrow, and then I should certainly shoot him'. The chief of the Kyeuuse [Cayuse] with three young men of the same tribe, 'who are the terror of all other tribes west of the mountains, and great friends of the white people as they call them', stepping in and settling the matter with a few words: 'this very friendly Indian, who is the finest figure of a man that I have seen, standing nearly 6 feet 5 inches high', accompanying the party a few miles up the river to the camping place, after being remunerated by McLeod for his help: 'I being King George's chief, or the Grass Man, as I am called, bored a hole through the only shilling I had, one which has been in my pocket since I left London, and the septum of his nose being perforated, I suspended it to it with a brass wire. This was to him the great seal of friendship'. The chief returning to the village after smoking, promising that there would be no more trouble
Unable to sleep, Douglas writing a letter to Dr Hooker [William Jackson Hooker, professor of botany at the University of Glasgow and director of the Glasgow Botanic Gardens]. Heavy rain during the night
(25 Mar 1826) Resuming the journey at dawn. Sleet and rain, with a northerly wind: 'being almost benumbed with cold, I preferred walking along the banks of the [river]', despite the path being rugged. Camping 40 miles above the Falls [Great Falls, or Celilo Falls], 'much fatigued'. Finding his knee painful and stiff during the night and the following morning
(26-28 Mar 1826) Clear, warm weather, temperature 50°-64°. Arriving at the establishment of Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Wallula, Washington] at 3pm. Being kindly received by S. Black [Samuel Black, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, explorer], 'the person in charge'
Seeing no trees growing on the gravel and rock plains. Using Tigarea tridentata [Purshia tridentata] as fuel for boiling their little kettle. Seeing several curious species of shrubby Artemisia, and other unknown shrubs: 'the whole herbage [is] very different indeed from the vegetation on the coast'. Seeing a ridge of high, snowy mountains towards the south-east, 90 miles away, terminating near the ocean, about 300 miles south of the Columbia [Columbia River, Washington and Oregon, United States of America, and British Columbia, Canada]. Expecting to find there most of the plants found in the Rocky Mountains [Canada and United States of America], Black having arranged a journey for him in early June for 14-15 days. The river running south-west towards the ocean, with rapids in many places making it very dangerous
(30 Mar 1826) Thursday. Continuing the journey early in the morning. Walking on the plains along the river until 10am. Stopping for breakfast opposite Lewis and Clark's River [Lewis and Clark River, Oregon], 'a stream of considerable magnitude', 100-150 yards wide. Hearing there were plenty of salmon to be caught as far up as the Falls [Great Falls, or Celilo Falls]. A fine, clear day. Writing a note to Mr Atkinson [William Atkinson, architect in London, who Douglas knew from Scotland; Atkinson also employed Douglas's brother John Douglas]
Resuming walking in the cool evening, 'picking any[thing] on my way'. Camping on a low, grassy island 40 miles from the establishment [trading post]. Seeing no trees. The soil light brown earth, sandy and gravelly on the riverbanks. Seeing several species of Lupinus, Oenothera and other Syngenesia, and 'the beautiful Tigarea' on sandy hills blown by the wind. A keen north wind
(31 Mar 1826) Friday. Clear weather, and a fine sky in the evening
(1 Apr 1826) The country becoming mountainous, composed of white clay with no vegetation except in the valleys. The river broadening with a large bend, running parallel with the coast. Camping on the Priest Rapids [Columbia River, Washington] at 7pm. The river narrowing, divided into two channels with a narrow dell through the small rocky island. The rocks rugged limestone: 'this is considered one of the most dangerous parts of the whole river'. Writing to his 'old companion' Mr Scouler of Glasgow [John Scouler, naturalist and surgeon on the William and Ann]
(2-6 Apr 1826) Continuing the journey each day at dawn and camping at dusk. Arriving at 8pm at the establishment on the Okanagan River [Fort Okanogan, Hudson Bay Company's trading post, Washington], a northern branch of the Columbia River. Being cordially received by Mr Annance, 'the person in charge' [Francis Annance, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader]. The riverbanks steep granite and sandstone, with an 'immense' species of Pinus ('Pinus rubra? [?Pinus sylvestris, Pinus resinosa or Picea rubens]') growing in the valleys and in damp places. Not being able to collect anything due to snow, up to five feet deep in some places
(7-8 Apr 1826) Searching unsuccessfully for grouse on the plains. Seeing only one small black partridge, 'the same as that sent home in 1825'
(9 Apr 1826) Continuing the journey early in the morning on horseback 'in company with my companions', to meet the boats up the river. The path around the mountain very rough, with broken stones covered with snow. Seeing beautiful yellow lichen on dead brushwood: 'it affords a very durable, beautiful yellow colour, and is used by the natives in dyeing'. The snow two to four feet deep. Meeting the boats at 11am and continuing the journey by boat after breakfast. A dry and pleasant day with a beautiful clear sky in the evening. Camping after 20 miles
(10-11 Apr 1826) Monday-Tuesday. The weather warm and pleasant, temperature 55°-69°. Arriving at sunset at the junction of the Columbia River and the Spokane River [Washington and Idaho, United States of America]. Finding John Warren Dease [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] with a party of 14 men, on their way to Kettle Falls [Washington; later submerged by Grand Coulee Dam], 90 miles up the Columbia: 'I was by this gentleman received with extreme kindness and had every attention and kindness that could add to my comfort', Dease being the brother of 'the gentleman now accompanying Captain Franklin [Peter Warren Dease, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader and arctic explorer accompanied John Franklin on his expedition] on his two journeys to the Polar Sea [Arctic Ocean]'. Being introduced to Dease by 'the general notice sent by that agreeable gentleman Mr McLoughlin [John McLoughlin]'. This part of the river the most beautiful and varied, with extensive plains and groups of pine trees ('like an English lawn'), rising bluffs covered with small brushwood and rugged rocks covered with ferns, mosses and lichens
(12 Apr 1826) Drying wet papers and some small plants collected during the journey. Writing to Joseph Sabine [secretary of the Horticultural Society of London], Mr Munro [Donald Munro, gardener at the Horticultural Society of London] and Douglas's brother [John Douglas]. Copying his notes. Pleasant weather
(13 Apr 1826) Thursday. Copying notes for John McLeod to take with him to Hudson's Bay the following day: 'I am particularly obliged also to this gentleman for his friendly attention. He has in the most careful manner taken my small tin box of seeds in his own private box, and will hand it over to Mr McTaust [?John George McTavish, chief factor of Hudson's Bay Company at York Factory]'
Meeting Mr John Work [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader], being acquainted with him from the previous year, Work having sent him some seeds from the interior and given him information about the local plants. Noting that the package of seeds 'marked 'wormwood of the voyageurs' is Tigarea tridentata [Purshia tridentata], [and] that marked by myself as if with a query, is a very fine species of Crataegus found only in the interior'. Intending to continue the journey to Kettle Falls, stopping 'at the different posts as appear most advantageous to my views'
Collecting plants during the journey (specimens 1-33), including a species of Salix ('male and female, a small scrubby tree, found near rivulets and moist ground in the mountain valleys'), a species of Geranium ('[annual], leaves compoundly pinnate, flowers small, azure purple. On the sides of rivers in sandy and gravelly soils. Plentiful'), a species of Lilium ('Lilium pudicum [Fritillaria pudica] of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh, botanist]. I find that No 25 of 1825, which I mistook for it, will prove still a more interesting plant, perfectly distinct from the genus Lilium, the style being invariably 3-cleft. The present, which agrees perfectly with his description, is found in great abundance from the falls upwards on all dry, light soils. This highly ornamental plant I must try to preserve roots to send home. Roots eaten both raw and roasted on the embers by the natives, and are collected in July and dry [dried] in the sun for winter store'), a species of Sisyrinchium ('[annual], 8 inches to a foot high, on the summit of the low hills, plentiful. A white flowered variety is usually found with it') and a species of Pulmonaria ('[perennial], glaucous leaves, sessile. Flowers blue. A small plant 4 to 8 inches high. Abundant on the plains and open woods') [here the journal includes a list of approximately 30 more plants]
[There are two inserted leaves pasted into the volume at this point, with additions to the list of plants: 'Ribes aureum is seldom seen to bear fruit in rich soils, and the little to be seen is small, sickly, and liable to be attacked with insects. On the rare channels of rivers where there is scarcely any soil, in rocky, dry situations on the banks of rivers it thrives less luxuriant, it bears by far more abundantly and the fruit is of better quality, particularly so if there is a portion of lime in the soil or rock. The fruit is large, about the size of the common white currant, in thick close strings with an exquisitely fine flavour. Nuttal [Thomas Nuttall, botanist in America] observes that on the Missouri [Missouri River, Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Iowa, Kansas and Missouri, United States of America] the black variety is the more abundant. Here it is rarely seen. That most common is a deep amber or between that and sulphur-yellow. Perhaps it might be well to try it in a very dry, poor soil with a little lime. June 27th', '[Specimen] 24, Phlox speciosa of Pursh is rarely to be seen in perfect seed. The intense heat, which generally sets in in May, long ere they arrive at maturity, completely dries them up. I found with difficulty a few on the plains in June and in July; on the high mountains near the N [north] and S [south] branches of Lewis and Clark's River [Lewis and Clark River], I found a larger quantity, being in a more temperate situation. Aug 5th']
(16-19 Apr 1826) Sunday-Wednesday. Making small trips near the junction of the Spokane River, 'being so early in the spring, more for the purpose of viewing the soil and face of the country with any bird or animal I might pick up'
(19 Apr 1826) Wednesday. Leaving at 11am with John Warren Dease and his party of 14 men and two boats for 'the new intended establishment called Fort Colville', near Kettle Falls [Fort Colvile at Kettle Falls, Hudson Bay Company's trading post, Washington; Fort Colvile and Kettle Falls were later submerged by Grand Coulee Dam]: 'I am much indebted to this gentleman for the care he took in placing my paper and other articles in a safe place in the boat, and for the kindness he showed myself by inviting me to a seat in his own boat'
The country becoming more mountainous and rugged nearer the Rocky Mountains, with thick woods of three species of Pinus, 'Pinus resinosa?', a tree resembling Pinus taxifolia [?Abies balsamea or Pseudotsuga menziesii], larger than on the coast, and Pinus larix [Larix decidua] in the mountain valleys: 'much larger than any I have seen on the other side of the continent, or even read [about]', measuring 30 feet in circumference, and some felled by storms 144 feet long, with clean and perfectly straight wood. Seeing thick grass on the plains and in the valleys, with several species of shrubs growing in the snow among the rocks. Warm during the day and frosty at night, temperature 28°-65°. Camping by the river 'as no place could be found more suitable', after 27 miles' journey in the rapid river
(20 Apr 1826) Thursday. Continuing the journey at 4am. Proceeding 40 miles on foot, 'except being crossed three times, as I could not pass by steep rocks'
(21 Apr 1826) Friday. Continuing the journey at dawn. Arriving at a rapid, almost as large as the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids], but unnamed, and breakfasting earlier than usual, at 9am. Calling the rapids Thomson's Rapids [also known as Grand Rapids or Rickey Rapids, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Franklin D. Roosevelt Lake], 'after the first person who ever descended the whole chain of the river from its source to the ocean [David Thompson, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader and surveyor, who navigated the full length of the Columbia River in 1811]'. Rain from 10am until 4pm
Arriving at the falls [Kettle Falls] at 6pm, 'thoroughly drenched to the skin, and gladly walked over the portage 3/4 of a mile to a small circular plain surrounded by high hills on all sides, where the new establishment is to be'. Pitching tents and eating 'a comfortable supper of salmon trout and dried buffalo meat, served up to us by the man who started the day before us with a band of horses'. Finding it difficult to keep plants dry despite having covered them with a double oilcloth. Changing specimen papers and placing them under pieces of bark near the fire for the night to dry
The Falls being a perpendicular pitch of 24 feet across the northern branch of the river, the southern branch being smaller with a semi-circular curve, and a small rocky island with a few stunted trees where the channels divide. The river 43 yards wide 'where it leaves the cascade in snowy flakes of foam'. The country 'exceedingly picturesque' and grand
(23 Apr 1826) Heavy rain and snow on the hills. Changing specimen papers
(24 Apr 1826) Clear and cold. Walking southwards to a hill. Seeing three species of a shrubby Penstemon with dried capsules. Killing three partridges, the same species as the male bird sent to England, a very rare bird near the coast, found on the hills among rocks, rarely on the plains, but not a shy bird: 'when raised, they fly a few yards and will either light on a rock or on a pine, where they can be easily killed'. Uncertain of the number of young or the colour of their eggs. Preserving the birds, 'as I had spare time'
(25-26 Apr 1826) Tuesday-Wednesday. Clear and cold. Taking a short walk by the river. Collecting plants (specimens 34-36), including a species of Acer ('flowers green, young shoots red. A small shrub, 4 to 14 feet high in low woods near springs or moist grounds'), a species of Betula ('a tree sometimes attaining the height of 20 to 30 feet and 9 inches to a foot diameter. On the margin of mountain springs and rivulets, where it is found most abundantly') and a species of Trillium ('flowers sessile, brownish-red, leaves ovate-orbicular, a fine species, inhabiting low moist, peaty soils among Betula and Salix. This I take to be Trillium ovatum of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh]'). Seeing Berberis aquifolium ('in greater abundance than in the lower country, plants much smaller, and a greater profusion of blossoms, growing among shattered rocks where there is scarcely any earth') and Collinsia of Nuttall [Thomas Nuttall]
Killing a male curlew and preserving the skin, 'having a spare hour in the evening'. The birds plentiful on the dry plains, perching in trees when shot at, different from the European curlews that lived near morasses or damp ground. Finding an egg in a nest, a similar size to a partridge egg, light brown with blue spots and a pointed end
(27-28 Apr 1826) Cold with rain showers and snow on the hills. Collecting plants (specimens 37-38), including Erythronium grandiflorum of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh] ('this exceedingly beautiful plant came under my notice 15 or 16 days ago, but being not then in blossom, I took it for Fritillaria. Abundant over all the undulating country, under the shade of solitary pines, in light dry soils. It has a most splendid effect in conjunction with Dodecatheon and a small species of Pulmonaria. Omit not to procure seed and roots of such a desirable plant') and Claytonia lanceolata of Pursh ('abundant in all open pine woods, in light soils. Its small roots are eaten by the natives, both in a raw state and cooked by roasting in the embers. When raw it is bitter and in every shape an insipid root. This species is different from most others of the genus, as it is seldom seen luxuriant in rich soils, such as near old villages or encampments')
(29 Apr-1 May 1826) Saturday-Monday. Variable weather with showers, temperature 28°-56°. Collecting plants (specimens 39-42), including Pinus larix [Larix decidua] ('abundant in the valleys. I have already observed that its size is much greater than any on the other side of the continent'), Shepherdia of Nuttall [?Shepherdia argentea] or Hippophae of Pursh [?Lepargyrea argentea] ('leaves ovate-lanceolate, deciduous, covered with rusty scales on the underside and stellately silky on the upper. Stamens eight, situated between the calyx and the eight glands. An upright slender shrub, 5 to 10 feet high, inhabiting the subalpine grounds under partially shady woods. I am for the present unable to find the female' [added on a separate slip of paper, pasted on to the page: 'I have with much care, but in vain, endeavoured to find this curious species in perfect fruit, although the males and females are usually seen together. Aug 15']), a plant in the class and order Diandria, Monogynia ('[perennial], calyx 3-partite, capsule 2-celled, seeds unknown. Radical leaves cordate, serrate, glabrous, on long petioles, cauline sessile or somewhat amplexicaul, with small ovate bractea at each flower, filaments red. A plant 1 to 2 1/2 feet high, flowering in a spike. Found abundantly on the plains among grass and several species of Artemisia and other Syngenesia not yet in blossom') and Claytonia alsinoides [Claytonia sibirica] ('Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh], flowers small, white, a small plant, found on all rich soils near rivers')
(2 May 1826) Tuesday. Rainy, with snow on the hills
(3-4 May 1826) Wednesday and Thursday. Walking on the southern bank of the river. Collecting plants (specimens 42-47 [includes some apparent overlap with previous specimen numbers]), including two species of Rosa and an evergreen shrub, possibly Clethra ('abundant in the woods, from the great profusion of mutilated capsules. This must be a plant worthy of strict attention'), a species of Viola ('leaves cordate, nearly entire, smooth, flowers blue, a small stemless plant. 2 to 4 inches high, plentiful on low, open, moist ground'), a species of Umbellifera ('[perennial], flowers purple, one of the strongest of the tribe found in the upper country. The tender shoots are eaten by the natives. Very plentiful in all rocky situations and sandy soils near rivers') and a species of Vaccinium ('[perennial], flowers pink colour. A small plant, 4 to 6 inches high, in open pine woods' [added on a separate slip of paper pasted onto the page: 'fruit abundant, small, globular, colour light brown, with an agreeable acid [flavour]. Jul 19']) [here the journal includes a list of 5 more plants]. Temperature 36°-57° with a northerly wind
(5 May 1826) Friday. Walking to the hills on the opposite side of the river. Collecting a species of Viola (specimen 48) ('[perennial], leaves ovate-lanceolate, smooth, flowers yellow. Seldom exceeding 6 or 8 inches high, abundant on open ground')
(6 May 1826) Saturday. Rain. Making an excursion to the opposite side of the river. Killing a small female pheasant, a shy bird and difficult to shoot. Endeavouring to preserve the skin, but 'the plumage is not so fine as I should have wished, very thin on the breast, probably hatching its eggs'. Seeing two species of Prunus not in blossom, and a fine species of Penstemon coming to flower, with lanceolate-denticulate leaves and red flowers. Returning at dusk
Collecting plants (specimens 49-53), including Gymnocaulis uniflora [identification unresolved as at Aug 2018] ('of Nuttall [Thomas Nuttall], on moist, shady places near Kettle Falls on Columbia River. In the same place I picked up Pterospora andromedea, measuring 4 1/4 feet high'), a species of Carex ('a small plant, 4 to 6 inches high, on elevated grounds, plentiful'), a species of Musci and a species of Polytrichum [here the journal includes a list of 5 more plants]
(7 May 1826) Sunday. Arranging plants and changing specimen papers. Drying clothes. A pleasant day, temperature 47°-61°
(8 May 1826) Monday. Weather cold and raw with hail showers. Walking to a nearby meadow, but not finding anything new
(9 May 1826) Tuesday. Leaving Kettle Falls at 10am with two horses, one for the provisions ('buffalo dried meat, a little tea and sugar, my blanket and paper'). His two guides being the sons of Mr Jaques Raphael Finlay [Jacques Raphael Finlay, also known as Jaco Finlay, Canadian Scottish-Saulteaux fur trader and explorer], 'a Canadian Sauteur [Saulteaux]' living in the abandoned establishment of Spokane [Spokane House, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Spokane, Washington], with extensive knowledge of the country and the local wildlife. John Warren Dease sending Finlay a note asking him to show Douglas 'anything that he deemed curious in the way of plants etc'
Going northwards over the mountains towards the Spokane River, 100-110 miles away. The path along the bottom of the mountain being 'scarcely passable' due to melting snow running down the mountain in rivulets, flooding the meadows and forcing Douglas to take a longer route. Camping under a large pine on a plain at 4am, after 27 miles' journey. Hobbling his horses. Walking around the camp
Collecting plants (specimens 54-55), including a plant in the class and order Pentandria, Monogynia ('[perennial], calyx 5-cleft, obtuse. Corolla five, narrower than the calyx, stigma bifid, flowers white, half the inside of the corolla covered with strong yellow hairs and purple veins. Peduncle solitary, one flower. Leaves lanceolate, smooth, entire. In low wet ground. This is not far removed from Menyanthes') and a species of Vicia ('[perennial], flowers large, purple, a very showy plant. Plentiful under the shade of solitary pines and outskirts of the woods'). Seeing a species of Ribes, but leaving it for the return journey, as it wasn't in flower. The scenery picturesque
(10 May 1826) Wednesday. Having the horses saddled at dawn and leaving at 5am. Eager to continue the journey, eating nothing but a little dry meat and water. At 12pm, crossing a small rapid river, called by his guides Barriere River [Little Pend Oreille River, Washington]: 'as there were no Indians near the place, we had to choose either making a raft or to swim'. Deciding to swim ('all of us good water-men') and unsaddling the horses. One of the horses getting tangled in brushwood and struggling to free itself, but managing in the end. Douglas swimming across twice, carrying first his papers and pen and then his blanket and clothes, holding them above the water with his hands. The guides swimming across the 30-yard wide river three times for the saddles and the provisions. A heavy hail shower. Lighting a fire to keep warm after nearly half an hour in the 40° water. After giving the guides tobacco and warming up, continuing the journey through the 'delightful undulating country'. Crossing a second ridge of mountains at 3pm. Camping at dusk in a densely wooded valley near a small stream. Seeing a small, beautiful species of Phlox, with white, blue and pink flowers
Collecting plants (specimens 56-57), including a species of 'Dioecia?' ('calyx 0 [zero], corolla 3-4 cleft, minute filaments, anthers sessile on the centre of each petal. No female flower. A most singular jointed, leafless, succulent parasite on a small species of pine, belonging to the 2 section of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh], different from any yet in my possession, but I regret that it could not be found in perfection. Like Viscum, it does not survive the death of its supporter. Abundant on all the slender twigs, and particularly so where the pines are in a light, sandy, dry soil. I took it first for a species of lichen, and passed [it over] as such, thinking it already collected') and an unnamed plant belonging to the same genus ('may prove only a variety of the same species')
Killing seven black partridges in crossing the mountain, finding in the ovary of the females 13-17 eggs. Finding a nest with seven eggs, the same size as a pigeon's, a bright 'brownish-dun' colour with red spots: 'blew one egg as a specimen, and cooked the others. Together with the partridges and buffalo meat, I had a comfortable supper'
(11 May 1826) Thursday. Waking up before dawn to heavy rain: 'in the twilight of the morn raised camp, the weather assuming a more inviting appearance'. Reaching the summit of the last range of hills between the two rivers [Columbia River and Spokane River] at 7am: 'one of the most sublime views ever beheld'. The soil becoming more barren towards the banks of the Spokane River, except in small belts in the valleys
Reaching the old establishment at Spokane [Spokane House] at 11am. Being kindly received by Jaco Finlay: 'he regretted exceedingly that he had not a single morsel of food to offer me', his family having lived for the last six weeks on the roots of Phalangium quamash ('cal
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