Second expedition of David Douglas: Journal 2

Title

Second expedition of David Douglas: Journal 2

Record type

Archive

Original Reference

RHS/Col/5/2/1/2

Date

24 Jul 1824-13 Apr 1826

Scope & content

David Douglas's journal relating to his second expedition to the north-western coast of North America, covering the journey via Madeira, Cabo Verde, Brazil, Juan Fernandez Islands and Galapagos Islands to the Columbia River

Overview of contents:
(Additional leaf pasted on to the first leaf): 'Memorandum'
Page 1a: 'Memorandum'
Pages 1-287: Narrative of journey, 24 Jul 1824-3 Oct 1825
Pages 289-331: Narrative of journey, 4 Oct 1825-13 Apr 1826

Physical description: Bound in hard covers with marbled paper sides in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled 'Douglas 5th. See also package of half-sheets' and 'Douglas, D. Journal, 1823-1827'. The text block is detached from the binding. Some foxing. The end of the volume contains a series of foolscap leaves, mounted on stubs, each leaf folded to fit within the covers. Some of the edges are brittle and have small tears. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 34 (h) 23.5 (w) cm

This volume covers the same period as RHS/Col/5/2/1/1, and overlaps partly with RHS/Col/5/2/1/3. A transcription combining the text in the different volumes was published by the Royal Horticultural Society in 1914, edited by the secretary of the society, Rev William Wilks and the librarian, H.R. Hutchinson ('Douglas' journal 1823-1827')

The journal is written on rectos only in David Douglas's hand

The volume contains two parts, each foliated separately, comprising the main volume paginated 1-140, followed by the added leaves, numbered 1-22. The volume was paginated during cataloguing on the upper right-hand corner of rectos

Illustrations: There is a small illustration of channels on page 108 [20 Jun 1825]

Summary of contents:

Includes a heading: 'Extracts from D. Douglas's journal' and a note on a loose leaf, which appears to have been previously pasted on the cover, in a later hand: 'This, watermarked 1824, is in fact a shortened fair copy & ends 13th April 1826'

The following note is written in an unidentified hand and pasted onto the page. Undated (c.1820s). 'Memorandum. There is a valley formed by a stream, which lies on the side of the house of the venerable Mr Van Renselaar [Stephen van Rensselaer III, landowner, businessman and politician in New York] (called the Patroon), which you ought to visit. Also an island below the city called the Patroons Island [Van Rensselaer Island, New York, United States of America] – excellent places for botanizing. On the latter I am told you will find two or three trees of the pecan nut, the Juglans olivaformis [Carya illinoinensis]. I speak from information. If true it is a great curiosity'

(24 Jul 1824) Saturday. Parting with Joseph Sabine [secretary of the Horticultural Society of London] 'and all other friends' after several weeks' preparation for a voyage to the Columbia River [Washington and Oregon, United States of America, and British Columbia, Canada] on the west coast of North America. Writing letters to his father [John Douglas senior], Dr Hooker [William Jackson Hooker, professor of botany at the University of Glasgow and director of the Glasgow Botanic Gardens] and Mr Murray of Glasgow [Stewart Murray, curator of Glasgow Botanical Garden]

Leaving London with his brother [John Douglas junior] on Sunday morning from the Spread Eagle office on Piccadilly [coaching inn at Webb's Hotel, 220 Piccadilly, London] by Times Coach to Gravesend to join the Hudson Bay Company ship William and Ann. A pleasant, cloudy and calm morning. Passing rye and barley fields. Meeting Mr John Scouler of Glasgow, the surgeon on the ship [John Scouler, naturalist and surgeon on the William and Ann] at Gravesend: 'this was to me news of the most welcome kind, being previously acquainted with each other and on the strictest terms of friendship'. Visiting the ship and returning on shore for dinner. Seeing his brother to the steamboat for London at 4pm: '[he] was affected at parting with me'. Boarding the ship

(26 Jul 1824) Monday. Stowing away and securing luggage. Sailing at 4pm with a fine breeze and light rain: 'we made only 7 miles when night stole on us'. Anchoring for the night

(27 Jul 1824) Tuesday. A cold, foggy morning. Sailing down the river at dawn. Striking the 'Shivering Sands' off the Nore [Thames estuary] at 7am and 'beat with great violence for an hour. Fortunately the wind was moderate with little swell at the time, otherwise our situation must have been perilous'. Getting clear, pleased little damage had been sustained, with only 'trifling' increase of water in the hold. The pilot leaving the ship off the coast at Deal at 6pm

(28 Jul-3 Aug 1824) The winds light and variable all the way down the channel. The weather warm during the day and pleasant in the evenings, with a beautiful sky. On the evening of 31 Jul, seeing the 'delightful view' of the rocky shore of Cornwall. 'Great variety' in the scenery of sky and water. Medusae, Physalae and other zoophytes at night 'giving off their phosporing or illuminating particles over a vast expanse of water, produces a very fine effect'

(3 Aug 1824) A cold, northerly wind. The sun visible at midday. Latitude 45°22, longitude 12°45W. 'A year has now elapsed since I arrived at New York after a tedious passage of 57 days'. Seeing two birds resembling gulls: 'seemed shy'

(4-8 Aug 1824) Winds continuing favourable, the ship making rapid progress. Saturday night spent singing songs with the sailors: 'the goodwill shown was more to be admired than the melody'. Sunday pleasant and warm. Prayers read in the forenoon, with a sermon by the captain and the surgeon. At 3pm, coming in sight of Porto Santo [Madeira, Portugal]. Expecting to land at dawn

(9-12 Aug 1824) Coming within 12 miles of the island in the morning. Passing the north-east point of the island at 7am in a pleasant breeze. On the eastern side of the island the hills rising into high, rugged, barren peaks and numerous large rocks rising above the water 200-400 yards from the shore. On the west side, the ground lower and more fertile. The town of Porto Santo 'pleasantly situated on a gentle declivity' on the south side of the island. Seeing the high mountains of Madeira at 11am. Passing the rugged and barren eastern extremity of the island, with low rocks, copper or blackish colour, resembling volcanic remains. Seeing on the left, 12 miles away, the barren Deserters Islands [Desertas Islands, Madeira], 'where the Portuguese transport their criminals'. The ship becalmed in the afternoon. Admiring the view of several 'rich and romantic' valleys 4-10 miles from Funchal [Madeira], the capital of the island

Anchoring in the Bay of Funchal at dusk. Being visited by boats from the Board of Health, objecting to their anchoring in the bay without a bill of health from London: 'matters were soon adjusted after a little explanation' Writing to Joseph Sabine in the morning. Going on shore. Visiting Mr Veitch's [Henry Veitch, British consul in Madeira] house, but finding Veitch was on a tour to Italy. The vice consul advising Douglas about the best way of spending his time on shore

Visiting the vegetable and butcher market on the south-west side of the town, a square of 50 yards enclosed on two sides by sheds fitted as stalls, on one side by a house serving as the butcher market, and the only entrance, with a high iron rail and a gate on the north side, and four rows of wooden houses or shops with pavilion roofs in the centre of the square. The square neatly paved with round stones, clean and 'has a genteel appearance'. The daily market overseen by officers: '[their] services I valued as [it] was evident, like most merchants, [they were] liable to impose on strangers'. Among the few vegetables, seeing cabbage ('of one sort, seemingly a late one of inferior quality'), yam ('in lieu of potatoes, and are preferred by the inhabitants to them. They are prepared in the same manner as potatoes. I am informed they are excellent for taking to sea, being not so liable to grow as potatoes in warm latitudes and of course keep much longer'), onion ('large, chiefly of one sort, red and flat, and appeared good. I judge it to be a favourite vegetable from the innumerable quantity exposed for sale'), two varieties of pepper ('one small, longish, of a red colour; one small round yellow; the former is a native of the island) and tomato ('generally small') [here the journal includes a list of 9 more vegetables], but 'not even a blade of parsley could be seen'. The fruits being more plentiful and of a better quality, including banana or Musa sapientum ('extensively cultivated and perfects its fruit in abundance. Usually eaten without any preparation; when fried in a little butter it tastes like a pancake'), lemon ('abundant, finer by far what [than] any I ever saw'), apple ('one sort of apple, large, round and red-streaked, dry and mealy, an insipid fruit'), three kinds of pears, including a pear resembling 'what is called in Scotland Crawford pear', four or five varieties of grapes and two varieties of peach

Mr Atkinson [William Atkinson, architect in London, who Douglas knew from Scotland; Atkinson also employed Douglas's brother John Douglas] had given Douglas several varieties of grapes, 'which I carried here in a good state of preservation', one possibly the White Muscat of Alexandria. Seeing only a few heavier bunches, and none with large berries: 'on the whole, although they had been cut 15 days, I would prefer the flavour of it to any at Madeira'. A bunch of grapes weighing about a pound costing three farthings. Bananas being sold 'according to the number of fingers on a bunch', one with 40-50 selling for 1s 6d, pears being sold by number, 30 for 3d, and two varieties of figs, 50 of the small green fruit or 30 of the long black fruit, for 4 1/2d. Soft fruits carried to the market on the head in baskets, and pears, apples and lemons being carried in hog skin bags on mules: 'the poorer class carry them on their backs'

Going to the north of the town to see the vineyards, the vines thriving in the valleys and deep ravines as well as on high grounds, on top of old walls and on the roofs of thatched cottages. The soil light brown, resembling burned sand. Not being able to learn what, if any, manure was used. The vines planted 6-12 feet apart and supported on horizontal wood railings four or five feet from the ground. When pruning, very little old wood being left, with two or four-inch spurs left on the principal shoots. Water conveyed to the plantations by way of channels dug in the numerous rivulets: 'a cheap mode of watering, and at the same time adds variety to the place'. The clusters daubed with mud or lime: 'for what purpose, I do not know', possibly to prevent damage from wasps and other insects. The undersides of the leaves covered with white mealy bugs, similar to those on pineapple plants in England. Old women and young girls being employed to pinch off leaves shading the fruit, stooping under the trellises. Douglas being disappointed with the quantity and quality of the grapes, seeing only a few weighing more than 2.5-3.5lbs. The clusters thinned early in the season. Passing along the lanes through the vineyards, escorted 'by an elderly matron with her distaff, a little boy or girl, whose suspicious eyes indicated their profession'. The best, most sheltered locations for cultivation reserved for bananas. Figs thriving in low, moist, partially shaded locations. Seeing other plants cultivated and growing around the island, including Eugenia jambos [Syzygium jambos], called jambos in Portuguese, producing abundant fruit in dry sandy or rocky soils

Going to the summit of the high mountains north of the town on 11 Aug. Seeing plants including Castanea ('the only forest tree to which the Portuguese direct their attention. All the valleys and the less fertile spots are planted with this tree. Most of the large ones have a large protuberance 4 feet from the ground. I thought they had been grafted, but on inquiring found it to be done by way of ornament'), Fuchsia coccinea and the common Chinese rose (which 'decorate old walls and constitute the hedges surrounding the vineyards'), a species of Aspidium ('tall, on moist rocks on the hills') and an annual species of Lobelia ('flowers small, blue') [here the journal includes a list of approximately 20 more plants]. Seeing in Henry Veitch's garden many fine forest trees, larger than elsewhere, fruit trees including lemon, orange, peach, Eugenia jambos [Syzygium jambos], grape ('all in great perfection') and a fine breadfruit tree (Artocarpus incisa) [Artocarpus altilis], 20 feet high

Temperature on board the ship at 10am and 800 feet above the sea 80°, and on the summit of the highest peak at 4pm 72°. Purchasing with John Scouler '1/16 of a pipe of wine (about 6 and 1/2 dozen [bottles]), for which we paid £7'. Sailing at 6pm on Wednesday, with a pleasant south-easterly breeze, pleased with the short stay in Madeira

(12 Aug 1824) Thursday. Losing sight of the mountains of Madeira. A north-easterly wind speeding up the voyage. 'I shall just state briefly what [I] observed during the time from Madeira to Rio de Janeiro [Brazil]'

(12-24 Aug 1824) The weather unremarkable, largely pleasant. The heat increasing on the approach to the Equator, with 21 Aug the warmest day, the temperature 84° under an awning in the shade. Being delighted with flying fish (Exocoetus volans) [Exocoetus volitans] and the noise of the tropical birds Phaeton aethereus in the early mornings, the latter becoming numerous on approaching the Cape de Verd Islands [Cabo Verde], but very shy, never coming within shooting distance. Several flying fish jumping on board the ship on 24 Aug. Seeing a curious species of Beroes [cigar comb jelly], retaining 'their transparent principle for a long time in a bucket of water'

(25 Aug-10 Sep 1824) The weather changing between 25 Aug and 10 Sep, with thunder, lightning, torrential rain and gusts of wind interspersed with calm periods. Temperature 84-86°, once measuring 88° in the cabin, and the only time comfortable enough to sleep being a little after sunrise. Encountering the ship Jane, from Philadelphia [Pennsylvania, United States of America] on 1 Sep, bound for Valparaiso [Chile]. Hoping to continue the journey with her, but losing sight of the ship in a storm the following night. Passing the Equator on 10 Sep, with the 'usual ceremony' performed with 'much merriment': 'all unqualified sons of the deep had an interview with old Neptune' [refers to the line-crossing ceremony, performed on persons first crossing the Equator and often involving the figure of Neptune, the Roman god of sea]. Heavy dews at night

(10-28 Sep 1824) The weather continuing variable for the first two days, then a fine south-easterly breeze speeding up the journey. Coming in sight of Cape Frio [Cabo Frio, Rio de Janeiro] on 26 Sep. The temperature lower than at the same northern latitude: 'this would naturally be the case at this season'. Temperature 79°-82°, water temperature 65°. The ship surrounded by sea birds, some of them very large. Seeing several turtles. Arriving in the bay [Rio de Janeiro] at 4pm on Tuesday. Being visited by officers from the Custom House, Board of Health and police. Two officers from a British man-of-war enquiring after mail and spare newspapers. Going on shore in the evening with the captain [Henry Hanwell, captain of the William and Ann]

(29 Sep 1824) Wednesday. Visiting John Dickson [British Royal Navy surgeon in Brazil], a friend of Joseph Sabine and a Horticultural Society correspondent. Douglas being received 'with much kindness' and invited to stay at Dickson's house. Showing Dickson his instructions and explaining the purpose of his journey, and learning he had hosted 'the late Mr Forbes [John Forbes, Horticultural Society plant collector, who died in Mozambique in 1823'; for the papers of Forbes, 1821-1823, see RHS/Col/3]' two years before: 'the affectionate manner [in] which he spoke of him, of his disposition and the becoming way [in] which he conducted himself during his residence, reflects much honour on his memory'. Dickson introducing Douglas to his friends. Being unable to make long journeys due to rain

The approach to Rio [Rio de Janeiro] being 'particularly grand', the entrance to the bay or harbour about half a mile wide, with several small wooded islands, one with a telegraph station. The land mountainous but not rugged, covered with luxurious vegetation to the summit, with palms growing high up. Seeing on the left Sugarloaf Mountain [Rio de Janeiro], a hill composed of 'primitive rock, not unlike the Aberdeen granite, with which the London streets are paved', a small fort at its base with a few guns, and a larger fort on the opposite side. The town having a fine appearance from the water. The houses regularly built, 'but of coarse workmanship', with lofty rooms and large doors, the windows generally not glazed, but with latticed shutters. 'The only buildings worthy of notice' being churches, including the emperor's [Pedro I] private chapel and another Gothic church in the Palace Square, both 'reflect credit on the architect'. Going to a service at the Gothic church at midnight: 'the gorgeous tapestry hung round the saints, the brilliancy of the candles and lamps, together with the general neatness of the edifice, impress on the mind of a stranger a pleasing sensation'

Meeting William Harrison [merchant in Brazil] of Liverpool, 'one of the most respectable English merchants' and brother of Arnold Harrison of Aighburgh, a fellow of the Horticultural Society. Harrison, being 'fond of plants and birds', and having introduced many plants to the Botanic Garden of Liverpool. Visiting Harrison's fine garden with a collection of African, European and indigenous plants, and seeing on an old wall about 70 species of Epidendrum and Orchideae: 'only the branch or stump on which the plant originally grew was nailed on the wall without any earth, many of them were thriving luxuriantly'. Harrison having nearly 80 beautiful live birds in cages, mostly Brazilian. Seeing a curious orange, probably not cultivated in England, resembling a lemon in shape, colour and size, but lacking the acidity of lemon and the saccharine taste of an orange: 'most assuredly a much pleasanter fruit than either. This, if not in Britain, would form a valuable addition'. Being unable to send young plants, fearing they would not survive the voyage, and being informed by Harrison that the seeds would not vegetate. Harrison promising to send plants collected by Douglas on one of his ships. Harrison giving Douglas a letter of introduction to his friends, Messrs McCulloch and Hartnell of St Barbara [Messrs McCulloch and Hartnell, merchants in Santa Barbara, California, United States of America] on the coast of New California [Alta California, comprising California, Nevada, Utah and parts of Arizona, Wyoming, Colorado and New Mexico, United States of America]

Harrison introducing Douglas to Mrs Maria Graham [author and illustrator], a travel writer in Chile and Brazil: 'she is a lady of much information, of very amiable manners, is fond of botany and tolerably conversant on most departments of natural history'. Listening 'with delight' to her descriptions of the plants around Valparaiso and Juan Fernandez [Juan Fernandez Islands, Chile]

Seeing at the fish, butcher and vegetable market on the east side of the town 'Convolvulus batatas [Ipomoea batatas], Dioscorea, Arum esculentum [Colocasia esculenta] and two kinds of pepper. Seeing plenty of orange, lemon and coconut. The only cabbage seen being purchased by the captain of the Hudson's Bay Company ship for half a dollar. 100 oranges or lemons costing a dollar ('about two bushels of Winchester measure'), with coconuts also cheap, about three half pence each, but culinary vegetables being more expensive than potatoes in England. Beef and pork ('both of inferior quality') the only meat at the market, with poultry plentiful and comparatively cheap. The fish market having a plentiful supply with a great variety of shellfish ('many of them singular and beautiful'), for 'a very moderate price'

During his walks around the city, being delighted to see many of the plants cultivated in England growing much more luxuriantly, including the 'almost endless' quantity of Scitamineae and Orchideae. Seeing Maranta zebrina [Calathea zebrina], another small species of Maranta ('lately figured at Bayswater [?Flora Tea Gardens in Bayswater, London]'), Gloxinia speciosa [Sinningia speciosa], Passiflora racemosa, Passiflora microcarpa [Passiflora punctata], two fine species of Rhexia and several unknown species

Never having seen a place 'so inviting, and never laboured under greater disadvantages', with only six fair days during Douglas's 12-day stay. Collecting two boxes of plants to send to England: 'this afterwards I thought as useless work, as they would arrive in England in the depth of winter. On the other hand, I regretted to allow any opportunity to pass without endeavouring to fulfil the objects of my voyage'. Packing them in closed boxes, there being no room for them on the deck, hoping they would reach England 'in such a state as will at the least compensate for the expense of collecting'. Taking with him the collection of about 200 species of dried plants. The specimens not quite dry, and Douglas unable to identify them 'for want of a book of general reference'

(8 Oct 1824) Writing to Joseph Sabine, Mr Munro [Donald Munro, gardener at the Horticultural Society of London], William Atkinson and Douglas's brother [John Douglas]. John Dickson giving Douglas £10 'on the Society to purchase several articles for the voyage and the country I was about to visit. All this was done [by] him and his servants with his usual politeness'. Expecting the ship to sail the following day, Dickson inviting some friends for dinner on Saturday 9 Oct, comprising Mr Louden, the British admiral's secretary, and Dr Scott ('his physician'): 'the good feeling and harmony manifested by every guest towards each other and at parting the good wishes towards my success was, I confess, to me gratifying'. Leaving this 'agreeable society' at 8pm. On stepping on the boat, heavy rain starting to fall with thunder and lightning. Taking off his coat and vest to keep his specimens dry. Having difficulty finding the correct vessel in the harbour, the ship having 'hauled out to a more commodious place for sailing since I was last on board'

(10 Oct 1824) Sunday. Cloudy with light rain and unfavourable winds. Going on shore at 5pm. Not finding John Dickson at home, but spending two hours with his assistant Mr Gogerty [unidentified] ('the intimate friend of Mr Forbes [?John Forbes, Horticultural Society plant collector, who visited Brazil in 1822 and stayed with John Dickson; for the papers of John Forbes, see RHS/Col/3]'). Gogerty accompanying Douglas to the ship

(11-13 Oct 1824) Not being able to leave the ship, as they were expecting favourable weather for sailing: 'this I regretted, the weather being dry and finer than any during my stay'

(14-22 Oct 1824). Sending a note on shore to John Dickson. Sailing at 7am with a light north-westerly wind: 'we left that interesting country with regret, but [...] with the hope of visiting it at a future period'. The wind continuing variable for a few days, with rain in the evenings. Temperature 66°-82°. Benefitting from a fine breeze from 4am on Tuesday, 'we pursued our voyage along the Brazilian coast with pleasure. Day after day passes away almost imperceptibly; at breakfast enquiries are made how the wind has been during the night, and the like. Such questions at home among friends this would appear ridiculous, but here are of the greatest importance'. Calculations being made of the wind direction and the speed of reaching destinations

Seeing immense shoals of a species of seaweed passing the ship. Catching one specimen measuring 60 feet in length, the stems round, three inches in diameter at the thickest part, the leaves 'alternate, lanceolate, crisped', the vesicles large and oval, and starfish, shells, white sand and lime clinging to the roots: 'having no fresh water to immerse them in, previous to laying them in paper, I put up a large jar in spirits, which will convey a good idea of its magnitude'. The weather 'much like that usually experienced in the Gulf of Florida'

Petrels abundant, 'and easily caught with a small hook and line baited with fat of pork'. Catching and preserving three mottled petrels, possibly Procellaria capensis [Daption capense]. Seeing two other shy species, but not managing to catch them, one of them large and jet black, the other brown. Seeing two species of albatross, one large, white and brownish-black, possibly Diomedea exulans, and a smaller black one. Catching the latter off the Falkland Islands with a stronger line and hook, preserving two of them, 'one of which has since spoiled with me', possibly a Diomedea fuliginosa [Phoebetria fusca]

(5 Nov 1824) Saturday. Off the Falkland Islands, latitude 54.5°S: 'I now began to feel the chilliness of Cape Horn [Chile] and experience the bad weather of its forbidding, dreary climate'. Managing to catch albatrosses only 'when the wind blows furiously and the ocean is covered with foam like a washing tub', contrary to earlier accounts of albatrosses which suggested they could only be caught in calm weather. The call of the birds resembling the bleating of goats. The birds emitting an oily matter from their mouths when killed, possibly caused by their diet of Physaleae, Beroe and other zoophytes. Seeing a third species off the Cape,, with a white belly and greyish back, blackish-brown on the upper side of the wings, with a light azure neck, black and yellow beak and black legs and feet. Catching two, but only managing to preserve one due to the bad weather. 'One of the sailors, in assisting me to lay hold of the one now sent home, was bit through the trousers in the thigh. The piece was taken out as if with a knife'. Catching altogether 49 of the black birds and two of the other kind: 'their flesh is fishy and rancid'. Catching two petrels, of a bluish-white colour, with legs and beak partly red, graceful in the water, their call resembling 'the chuckling of young ducks'

The weather stormy with a 'mountainous angry sea' during the ten days of 'doubling around the Cape, as the sailors term it'. The ship rocking, with waves frequently breaking over it: 'no sleep could be had until completely worn out with fatigue'. The southerly and south-westerly wind very cold, and the temperature varying between 39° and 45°, with 'a piercing rawness in the atmosphere', unlike that of similar latitudes in the northern hemisphere. Daylight lasting 16 hours, with clear skies and beautiful sunsets

(16 Nov 1824) Rounding Cape Horn, 'gladly I bade adieu to such inhospitable regions'. Gradually navigating more peaceful waters

(17 Nov 1824) Catching two Diomedea exulans, the larger weighing 18lbs and measuring 12 feet and four inches, or four feet from the beak to the tail. Both moulting, and 'not worth preserving'. When taking off from the water, the birds raising their wings like swans, but not shaking them, rising from the water partly running and partly flying for several hundred yards. The birds being unable to fly from the deck of a ship, and flying with their wings curved when fishing. At latitude 54°S, longitude 77°W seeing a curious species of porpoise, with a pure white stripe on each side, from the snout to the tail, much smaller than the common porpoise, moving too quickly to be caught. The weather continuing variable until the Straits of Magellan [Chile], with boisterous winds, rough sea, rain and thick fogs

(21 Nov-14 Dec 1824) 'Nothing worthy of notice took place'

(14 Dec 1824) Seeing the island of Massefuera [Alejandro Selkirk Island, Juan Fernandez Islands, Chile] about seven leagues away, resembling a conical black rock. Passing within two miles of the island, but being unable to land due to the surf. The island looking barren, with some 'verdure' in the valleys and some trees on the hills, and goats on the rocks. Sailing towards Juan Fernandez Island [Juan Fernandez Islands], about 80 miles north-east. The winds calming, therefore not reaching the island until 'the morning of the second day'. Embarking on a boat sent to search for fresh water, but being unsuccessful, returning in a few hours

Going to the north side to Cumberland Bay [Robinson Crusoe Island, Juan Fernandez Islands] ('so named by Anson in 1741 [George Anson, British Royal Navy commodore, who navigated around the world in the 1740s]') the following day. The island mountainous, volcanic and covered with trees to the summits of the hills, their tops enveloped in clouds. Going on shore on Friday and Saturday: 'was much gratified with my visit'. Seeing a small vessel anchored on the shore, and a hut on the beach with smoke rising from it

Stepping out of the boat, a man 'sprang out of the bushes to our astonishment', directing them to a sheltered creek. 'He gave me the following account of his adventures': William Clark, a sailor from Whitechapel in London, was discharged in Chile five years ago from a Liverpool ship called Lolland. He was now employed by Spaniards visiting the island for hunting seals and wild bullocks, with his five companions who stayed on the other side of the island, and visited him once a week, he being left to take care of the little bark [boat] and other property. On seeing the boat, he had at first fled to the woods, thinking Douglas and his companions were pirates: 'he sprang from his place of retreat as soon as he heard us speak English. No language can bespeak the pleasure he seemed to feel'

Clark had been on the island for five weeks, and intended to stay for another five. His clothing consisted of a pair of coarse blue woollen trousers, a flannel and a cotton shirt and a hat ('but he preferred to go bareheaded'), and no coat. Douglas and the surgeon [John Scouler] giving him 'as much as we could spare from our small stocks, for which he was very thankful'. Visiting his little hut made of turf and stones, thatched with wild oat straw, his bed a bunch of straw and a blanket in one corner, the only furniture a log of wood to sit on. The only cooking utensil was a 'common cast-iron pot with a wooden bottom, in which he boiled his food by sinking it a few inches in the floor of his lodge and placing the fire round the sides'. Clark had a longing to taste roast beef, not having had any for seven years, and tried to 'bake some, as he termed it, but in the baking the bottom, as might naturally be expected, gave way - so poor Clark could not accomplish his new mode of cooking. I told him under his circumstances roasting beef was an easier task than boiling'

Clark's library amounting to 17 volumes ('he was a man of some information'), including the Bible, the Book of Common Prayer ('which he had to keep in a secret place when his companions were with him'), 'Tales of my landlord [Sir Walter Scott, 1816-1832]', 'Old Mortality [Sir Walter Scott, 'The Tale of Old Mortality', 1816]', 'several volumes of voyages, Cauper's poems [William Cowper]: '[he] had the one partly by heart addressed to Alexander Selkirk [William Cowper, 'Verses supposed to be written by Alexander Selkirk', 1782; Selkirk was a castaway in the South Pacific Ocean in 1704-1709, whose story is said to have inspired Daniel Defoe's Robinson Crusoe], but what is still more worthy of notice, a fine bound copy of Crusoe's adventures [Daniel Defoe, 'Robinson Crusoe', 1719], who himself was the latest and most complete edition'. Like 'all English sailors, he had no aversion to rum', and on being given a single dram by Douglas, being unaccustomed to it, it 'made him forget his exile. He was then like the heroes of Troy: 'fought his battle over again and slew the slain three times''

Seeing the now-abandoned Spanish colony, the houses and the fort destroyed, and 26 cannons lying on the shore. Seeing the vestiges of a church, the lintel of the door inscribed 'La casa de Dios puerta del cielo y so colocoesta [y se coloco esta] a 24 de Septiembre, 1811' - 'The house of God consecrated 24 Sep, 1811'. Seeing a circular brick oven nearby, seven feet in diameter, dated 1741 and possibly built by Anson [George Anson] during his residence: 'it is now occupied by a small species of blue pigeon as their cote; in it I found some eggs, but no young ones. This I told Clark he should use'. Seeing in the old gardens three or four species of peach ('very luxuriant'), apple, quince, two kinds of pear ('a quantity of the last three we took for puddings'), fig, vines and 'a sort of' strawberry ('of a tolerably large size, of a whitish pale red, flavour not unpleasant; leaves, stem and calyx very downy. Dried a paper of seeds of this sort, lest it may prove indigenous to the island or the coast of Chile'). Sowing vine, pear and other fruit and vegetable seeds received from William Atkinson and giving some to Clark to sow, since radish was the only culinary vegetable on the island. Spending Saturday afternoon fishing, catching 'a sort of rock cod' and a smaller fish: 'both were very good and afforded a pleasant meal'

(18 Dec 1824) The temperature on the summit of a high hill south of Cumberland Bay [Robinson Crusoe Island, Juan Fernandez Islands] 70° in the shade at 2pm, and in the valley at 4pm 74°, the weather cloudy and calm with a little rain. Clark giving them a 'fine female goat' as a parting gift, 'but not one of Crusoe's [Robinson Crusoe], being a young one'. Leaving Clark standing on a large stone on the shore on Saturday evening, intending to return the following morning. On reaching the ship four miles away, strong south-easterly winds setting in, 'which obliged me to leave that enchanting spot with reluctance, and my new acquaintance Clark'. The winds continuing unfavourable for reaching land, driving the ship for three days. Sailing towards the Islands of Gallipagos [Galapagos Islands, Ecuador] at longitude 80°W

Collecting plants during the visit to Juan Fernandez [Juan Fernandez Islands] (specimens 1-78), including a species of 'Aspidium?' ('an elegant, strong plant, 4 to 6 feet high, gave me much annoyance in passing through its thick herbage; 4 to 6 feet high'), tree fern ('the finest of the tribe, 12 to 15 feet high, with a strong, rough stem, footstalks very long and black. At a distance look like a young plantation of pine'), a species of Silene ('[annual], small leaves lanceolate, linear, whole plant hispid'), a species of Gnaphalium ('[perennial], leaves amplexicaule, lanceolate, woolly; flowers yellow; whole plant glutinous. Abundant') and a species of Hordeum ('[annual], a beautiful plant, not more than 8 inches to a foot high, on the highest peaks of the mountains') [here the journal includes a list of approximately 77 more plants]

On Thursday morning, the weather becoming more moderate and a south-easterly trade wind carrying the ship within half a degree of the Equator. Christmas spent at latitude 27°S, longitude 84°W, dining happily on the goat given by Clark and drinking to the health of their friends in England. Temperature 69°-77° in the shade, water temperature 65°

(1 Jan 1825) Saturday. Latitude 19°S. Good weather continuing: 'nothing occurred deserving to be noticed'. The heat feeling less oppressive than in the Atlantic Ocean, despite there being little difference in the temperature

(9 Jan 1825) Sunday. Passing Chatham Island [San Cristobal, Galapagos Islands]. The island not mountainous, with little vegetation. On Monday morning going on shore at James Island [Santiago Island, Galapagos Islands], 37 miles west of Chatham Island, at latitude 13°S, longitude 90°. The island volcanic and mountainous with vestiges of volcano crates and 'vitrified lava', the highest hills about 2,000 feet above sea level. Not much vegetation compared to other tropical places, probably due to the lack of fresh water, although some of the trees in the valleys large. Seeing few plants but numerous birds, some 'exceedingly handsome [and] so little acquainted were they with man's devices that they were readily killed with a stick', using a gun only to shoot them down from rocks or trees: 'many of the smaller ones perched on my hat and, carrying my gun on my shoulder, would perch on it. During my stay of three days (2 hours each [day] on shore), I killed 45, of 19 genera, all of which I skinned carefully - and had the mortification to lose them all, except one species of Sula, by the almost constant rain of 12 days after leaving the island'. The birds including two species of pelican, four species of Sula, four species of hawk ('one particularly fine, nearly orange colour') and one 'very curious' small pigeon

Being almost as unfortunate with plants, collecting 175 specimens, but being able to save only 50: 'I never was in such a state in my life, touching at a place where everything, indeed the most trifling particle, becomes of interest in England, and [to] have so little to show I have been there'. Drying the remaining plants 'with no small labour' and sending them to England: 'what they may be, I cannot say', the weather during the rest of the journey being 'such as did not admit of examining them', and having had no time to do so since his arrival [at the Columbia River]

Seeing in the valleys on the island a 'very singular' large species of cactus (Opuntia), 20 to 50 feet high, with a trunk two or three feet in diameter, large bright yellow flowers and a fine species of Gossypium with large yellow flowers and yellow cotton, 4 to 10 feet high. Sending seeds of both to England, 'with seeds of a plant which may be found to belong to Coniferae'. Seeing a large species of tortoise, some weighing over 400lbs, a bright orange-yellow lizard, two and a half feet long [?Galapagos land iguana]: 'both make very good soup'. Losing the skin of the lizard: 'I regret its loss the more, being not [previously] observed'. Seeing turtles on the shore, possibly the green turtle of the West Indies. On Wednesday whilst on shore, the rain ceasing for about an hour, the sun raising an 'almost suffocating' steam from the ground. Temperature 96°, with no wind. Leaving the island in the evening. Passing Albemarle Island [Isabela Island, Galapagos Islands] to the east: 'people were on it'. Seeing lights after dark. Setting off 'some blue lights, to which they answered'

(16 Jan 1825) Sunday. Thunder and lightning from 4am to 2pm: 'I never witnessed anything equal to it. 4 tons of water was had from the sails and deck, which was a great relief, our allowance was more [increased], and [we] got some of our clothes washed'. Killing a small black gull-like bird, preserving it despite the fact it was moulting. Rain continuing for almost a fortnight, the ship tumbling and rolling on the waves. The ship being carried by a current nearly 10° westward in the correct direction for 45-60 miles a day: 'a most fortunate circumstance'. The winds continuing variable for the remaining time in the tropics, with thunder and lightning in the evenings. Catching two albatrosses at latitude 34°N off Cape Horn, one mostly black, with a little bit of white around its eyes and beak, similar to Diomedea fuliginosa [Phoebetria fusca] caught off Cape Horn: 'this I have no doubt will prove a very distinct variety if not a species'. Preserving both carefully and sending them to England. Two days later, catching two Diomedea exulans, smaller than those on the southern hemisphere, seven feet in length: 'I was prevented from preparing them by the violence of the storm'. The second mate of the ship falling on the deck and fracturing his thigh during the storm: 'the excruciating pain, which this poor man suffered until the termination of our voyage can hardly be expressed'

(12 Feb 1825) Coming in sight of a river at latitude 46°15', longitude 134°W, but being prevented from approaching the coast by the 'boisterous and frightful' weather. Being tossed about and driven by the winds for six weeks, attempting many times to reach their destination. Experiencing the hurricanes of North West America: 'a 1,000 times worse than Cape Horn'. A small species of transparent azure-blue Physaleae frequently washed up on the deck. South-westerly and north-westerly winds. Attempting several times to reach the harbour

(2 Apr 1825) Saturday. Coming in sight of Cape Disappointment [Washington, United States of America] 30 miles away: 'sail was shortened to wait a new day for entering'

(3 Apr 1825) Sunday. A calm and cold morning. An easterly wind carrying the ship within four miles of the river [Columbia River], but having to sail back to the sea due to another violent storm

(5 Apr 1825) Approaching the land again, having been 170 miles out at sea

(7 Apr 1825) Thursday. Approaching the coast, 40 miles away, in a north-easterly breeze: 'such an opportunity was not lost, all sail was set, joy and expectation was on every countenance, all glad to make themselves useful'. Keeping the soundings [measuring the depth of the water] with the doctor [John Scouler]. Safely crossing the bar ('which is considered dangerous, many ships having been injured and some lost'). Anchoring in Baker's Bay [Baker Bay, Washington] on the north side of the river at 4pm. Cannons being fired to announce their arrival at the establishment [Hudson Bay Company's fur trading post on the Columbia River, Washington] seven miles up the river. Being relieved to finish the 'long and tedious' voyage of 8 months and 14 days: 'the joy of viewing land, the hope of, in a few days, ranging through the long wished-for spot & the pleasure of again resuming my wonted employment may be readily calculated'. Spending the evening 'with great mirth' and going to sleep in the early hours: 'to sleep without noise and motion, the disagreeable attendants of a sea voyage. With truth I may count this one of the happy moments of my life'

(8 Apr 1825) Friday. Heavy rain. Temperature 47°

(9 Apr 1825) Saturday. Going on shore with John Scouler: 'on stepping out of the boat, the first plant that took my attention was Gaultheria shallon. So pleased was I that I could scarcely see anything but it'. Seeing Rubus spectabilis ('abundant, both these delightful plants [were] in blossom'), several species of Vaccinium, a species of Tiarella and Heuchera, returning to the ship 'amply gratified'. Going on shore again the following morning. Seeing nothing new, except some Gramineae and Muci [Musci]. On returning to the ship, finding 'a canoe with one Canadian and several Indians', bringing potatoes, milk and fresh butter along with news from the establishment [Hudson Bay Company]. Eating the potatoes in the evening. 'The natives viewed us with curiosity, and put to us many questions. Some of them have a few words of English, and by the assistance of signing make themselves very well understood. The practice of compressing the forehead, of perforating the septum of the nose and ears with shells, bits of copper, beads or in fact any hardware, gives a stranger a curious idea of their singular habits'. The locals, having brought dry salmon, fresh sturgeon, game, roots and dry berries for sale, 'soon showed themselves to be a dexterous people at bargaining'

(11 Apr 1825) Monday. Going up the river in the ship to the 'establishment [Hudson Bay Company]'

(12 Apr 1825) Tuesday. Going on shore. Being 'very civilly received' by Mr McKenzie [?Alexander McKenzie, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader], 'the person then in charge'. Being informed that the company was about to abandon the location for a larger establishment 90 miles up the river, where 'the chief factor', John McLouchlin [John McLoughlin, also known as Jean-Baptiste McLoughlin, chief factor of Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Vancouver] was, but that he would return on receiving news of the ship's arrival. Not leaving the ship until Saturday, but visiting the shore daily: 'with respect to the appearance of the country and its fertility, my expectations were fully realized'

The country very varied, with hills and plains, the soil generally good. Most of the country covered in several species of pine trees, with less variety than on the Atlantic side of the country, with no Fagus, Gleditschia [Gleditsia], Magnolia or Juglans, and only one Quercus and Fraxinus. Cape Disappointment, 'a remarkable promontory', rising about 700 feet above the sea to the north, covered with pine and brushwood. The country hilly to the north near the ocean. Point Round or Point Adams [Oregon] of Lewis and Clarke [Meriwether Lewis's and William Clark's expedition in 1804-1806 charted the Pacific Northwest] on the south side of the river low and swampy for 40 miles as far as Cape Lookout [Oregon], with a ridge of hills. The river about five miles wide at its mouth, not including Baker's Bay [Baker Bay], with a deep bend. The current strong, westerly winds producing 'great agitation'. The water breaking over the sandbar without forming a channel, making it dangerous for ships to cross it either way

Being unable to do much collecting, having only a little paper with them and the cargo of the ship not having been taken out. Collecting plants (specimens 1-20), marking those with seeds sent to England, keeping a small quantity of the seeds when possible, to be sent across the continent, according to the instructions. A dried specimen of each kept for reference for collecting seeds, to be taken or sent to England later by sea, being too bulky to send across the continent. The plants including Gaultheria shallon ('called by the natives salal, not shallon, as stated by Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh, botanist], figure and description good. Abundant in (as is very correctly observed by Mr Menzies [Archibald Menzies, surgeon, botanist and naturalist] all the pine forests, more luxuriant where partially shaded, particularly so near the ocean. I have since seen it as far as 40 miles above the Grand Rapids of the Columbia [Cascades Rapids, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Bonneville Dam], but as it leaves the coast, it becomes less vigorous. Was in flower when I arrived, and is now (Aug) still, and in fruit. Bears abundantly fruit, good indeed, by far the best in the country. Should the seeds now sent home rise, as I hope they may, I have little doubt but it will ere long find a place in the fruit garden as well as the ornamental. In my walks I have frequently seen the young plants on the stumps of trees, 4 to 10 feet from the ground and on dead wood, growing luxuriantly. It might be worth mentioning to Mr Munro [Donald Munro] to try it in rich decomposed vegetable soil, being its natural way of propagating. I am sorry that I have it not in my power to send specimens of the fruit in spirits with the ship that put up when on my last journey to the ocean, [as it] was by some evil-disposed person stolen for the sake of the spirits they were in. I have every reason to think it was some of the Eroque [Iroquois] Indians belonging to the establishment. [It] flowers the whole summer, fruit ripe in July, and continues bearing until checked by the frost'), Ribes sanguineum ('flowers beautiful pink colour, inside of the petals and anthers white, in large racemes. This exceedingly handsome plant is abundant on the rocky shores of the Columbia and its branches, and in such places produces a great profusion of flowers, but little fruit. In the shady woods the flowers are less numerous and beautiful, but produce more fruit. I am happy to send a good portion of its seed. Fruit ripe in Aug, flowers April'), a species of Alnus ('a tree 50 to 70 feet high, may prove [to be] Alnus glutinosa, may be larger by being in a finer climate, plentiful on the sides of rivers'], a species of Equisetum ('a plant usually found near springs and swampy ground, the male stems are eaten in a raw and boiled state by the natives') and Phalangium quamash [Camassia quamash] ('its roots are prepared as follows: a round hole is scraped in the ground in which are placed a number of stones, a fire is then kindled on them and kept burning until nearly red hot, which is then removed and some brushwood and straw placed on them. The roots are then put on it and covered with leaves, moss or straw and a layer of earth, and left until baked or roasted, which occupies a few hours. They are then taken out and put up to dry, sometimes [they] are bruised and made into cakes and round lumps, which are placed on shelves in the lodges for winter use. When cooked, they have a sweetish and by no means an unpleasant taste. It is not improbable that a very palatable beverage might be made from them. Lewis & Clarke [Meriwether Lewis and William Clark] observe they are apt to produce bowel complaints when eaten in large quantities. This I am not aware of, but assuredly they produce flatulence. Abundant in all low alluvial plains on the margins of woods and banks of rivers') [here the journal includes a list of 15 more plants]

(16 Apr 1825) Saturday. The chief factor [John McLoughlin] arriving by river from the new establishment: 'he received me with much kindness'. Douglas showing him his instructions and explaining his pursuits, and being promised assistance 'in the most handsome and frank manner', including accommodation, canoes and people to accompany Douglas when possible: 'I am confident that will give Mr Sabine [Joseph Sabine] much pleasure in communicating to the committee of the Hudson Bay Company'. Receiving his belongings from the ship, and being advised to visit the new establishment, as the company was about to abandon the present one

(19 Apr 1825) Tuesday. Leaving in the morning in a small boat with John McLoughlin, with 'one Canadian and 6 Indians'. Proceeding only 40 miles with no wind. Dining on roasted sturgeon, tea and a slice of bread. Sleeping in the boat pulled on the shore. Continuing the journey at 3am the following morning, and reaching their destination at 10pm. The scenery on the riverbanks 'exceedingly grand': 27 miles from the coast seeing undulating pine woods and plains of deep, rich alluvial soil with thick vegetation, becoming mountainous, with perpendicular sandstone or limestone and blue granite rocks with waterfalls, rising to a height of several hundred feet. The country continuing mountainous until the lower branch of the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel, Oregon], the Belle Vue Point of Vancouver [Oregon], about 70 miles from the ocean

To the south, towards the headwaters of the Multnomah, a ridge of snowy mountains running south-west from the Columbia River, with a fine view and a conspicuous conical mountain, probably Mount Jefferson [Oregon], mentioned by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. Seeing two other conspicuous mountains to the east and north, Mount Hood [Oregon] and Mount St Helens of Vancouver [Washington]. Estimating their height to be 10,000-12,000 feet, with two thirds of the range continuously covered in snow. Not having seen any melting of the snow from April until August, having been near Mount Hood in June: 'its appearance presented barriers that could not be surmounted by any person to reach its summit'

Staying on the north bank of the river, 12 miles below Point Vancouver [Washington] near the place where 'the officers from the Vancouver Squadron discontinued their survey of the river [Columbia River] [Vancouver expedition, 1791-1795, to circumnavigate the globe, led by George Vancouver]'. The establishment being called Fort Vancouver [Hudson Bay Company's fur trading post on Columbia River, Vancouver, Washington], near 'Menzies' Island' [Hayden Island, Oregon], named after Archibald Menzies, 'when his companion on that famous expedition'

Being offered a tent to stay in, there being no houses yet. Staying in the tent for some weeks: 'a lodge of deerskin was then made for me, which soon became too small by the augmenting of my collection and being ill-adapted for drying my plants and seeds'. At the time of writing (16 Aug), living in a hut made of the bark of Thuja occidentalis, which 'most likely will be my winter lodging'. Having spent only three nights in a house since his arrival, the first three nights on shore: 'on my journeys I have a tent, where it can be carried, which rarely can be done, sometimes I sleep in one, sometimes under a canoe turned upside down, but most commonly under the shade of the pine without anything. In England people shudder at the idea of sleeping with a window open. Here, each individual takes his blanket and with all the complacency of mind that can be imagined, throws himself on the sand or under a bush, just as if he was going to bed. I confess at first, although I always stood it well and never felt any bad effects from it, it was looked on by me with a sort of dread. Now I am well accustomed to it, so much so that comfort seems superfluity'

Listing plants (specimens 21-156), including a species of Iris ('flower blue, a small plant, 6 inches to a foot high, on rich plains near springs, abundant'), 'Acer macrophylla?' [Acer macrophyllum] ('one of the largest and most beautiful trees on the Columbia [Columbia River]. Its large foliage and elegant racemes of yellow fragrant flowers contrast delightfully with the dark leathery branches of the lordly pine, 6 to 16 feet in circumference, 60 to 90 high. Banks of the Columbia as far as a few miles above the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids] to the ocean, also in several of its branches. A jar of seed is put up with a large paper. Correctly noticed by Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh] to have the largest foliage of any'), a species of Taxus ('a tree 20 to 60 feet high, with its durable wood the natives of the Columbia make their bows. Plentiful in dark, low valleys'), a species of Pyrus ('a large tree, 30 to 40 feet high, flowers white and fragrant. From the wood of this tree, the natives make their wedges for splitting the pine fruit small, not yet ripe. Plentiful on the banks of rivers') and a species of Carex ('[perennial], one of the strongest of the genus, 4 to 6 feet high, found in all marshy grounds. Used by the natives in making mats and thatching their huts') [here the journal includes a list of 130 more plants]

(5 May 1825) Collecting Gramineae and other plants (specimens 157-224), a species of Rhus ('small upright shrub, 2 to 4 feet high. On the sides of woods in dry gravelly soils, flower yellow'), a species of Geum ('[annual], small, 4 inches to a foot high. Flower yellow colour. Abundant in sandy places'), a species of Viola ('flowers small, yellow. In open ground in light, rich soil, plentiful'), a species of Mespilus ('a large tree, flowers white') and a species of Saxifraga ('[perennial], on rocky situations') [here the journal includes a list of 62 more plants]. Returning on Wednesday evening after a 'prosperous but fatiguing' journey

(17-18 May 1825) Drying paper and arranging plants. Frequent rain interrupting the excursions

(20-25 May 1825) Collecting plants nearby, making excursions of 10-30 miles (specimens 225-263), including Delphinium virescens [Delphinium carolinianum] of Nuttal [Thomas Nuttall, British botanist , who studied North American plants in 1808-1841] ('a fine specimen, in all dry, light soils near the outskirts of woods and under the shade of trees in the plains, abundant. Seeds'), a plant which 'may probably turn out Trifolium ('[annual], a fine plant in the like places as the preceding plant, plentiful'), a plant in the class Syngenesia ('[perennial], 1 to 2 feet high, flowers yellow'), Linnaea borealis ('this fine, little fragrant plant is very abundant in all the close pine and cedar woods among moss. I am unable to find its fruit') and a species of Epilobium ('[annual], a small plant with minute white flowers, in dry sandy soils on the banks of rivers') [here the journal includes a list of 33 more plants]

(7-10 May 1825) Listing plants [this is a list of plants collected at an earlier date] (specimens 176-184, 239-254), including a species of Oxalis ('a small plant, 4 to 8 inches high, flowers bright yellow, in light, sandy soils, edges of woods'), 'Caulophyllum?' ('in shady, dry woods, plentiful'), Pyrola aphylla [Pyrola picta] ('it was with much pleasure I found this curious little plant. It will, I think, on careful examination be found to differ from the description. It has a profusion of bracteate leaves. Is parasite, on the decayed wood, like Monotropa or Orobanche. Style declining, stamens bent upwards. About 70 specimens of this singular plant I collected, which will, I am confident, find admirers. In thick shady woods among moss in vegetable soil and dead stumps of trees'), a species of Sedum ('flowers yellow, on the rocks. Plentiful') and Campanula perfoliata [Triodanis perfoliata] ('plentiful in moist soils near springs') [here the journal includes a list of 19 more plants]

(25 May 1825) Collecting plants (specimens 255-263), including Equisetum hyemale ('in all marshes'), a species of Erigeron ('[annual], flower pale rose colour. Rare on Menzies Island [Hayden Island] on the sands'), a species of Gramineae ('[perennial], a tall grass, 3 to 4 feet high. In light, sandy soil. Abundant'), another species of Gramineae ('belongs to the same genus as the former plant, found together') and a species of Lupinus ('[perennial], leaves digitate, leaflets 7-9, lanceolate. Flower faint blue and purple, striated with blue of a deep hue. Whole plant glabrous. Flower rarely to be seen, being destroyed by a species of aphis, which confines itself to this plant. Common on elevated dry soils. Seeds') [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants]

(31 May 1825) Wednesday. Making a three-day journey towards the rapids on the north banks of the river. Accompanied by 'one Indian belonging to a tribe called Kyuse [Cayuse]. His name was Yes, I mean the Indian name. He had no good qualifications, except being a good huntsman'

Collecting plants (specimens 264-295), including a species of Antirrhinum ('[annual], [male], glabrous, leaves alternate, linear, obtuse, flowers blue and purple, stem erect, 18 inches high. Seeds'), a species of Orchis ('roots palmate, flowers white and fragrant. A tall, fine plant'), Arbutus uva-ursi [Arctostaphylos uva-ursi] ('abundant on all rocky, elevated, dry grounds. The leaves are dried at the fire and smoked by the natives'), a species of Oenothera ('[annual], stem erect, rarely branching, except when growing in very rich soil, slender, leaves sessile, alternate, linear, entire, smooth, flowers very large, rose colour, petals obtuse with a dark spot of purple in each, capsules sessile, long. This exceedingly beautiful species I call Oenothera lindleyana [identification unresolved as at Oct 2018], after Mr John Lindley, the garden secretary [assistant secretary of the Horticultural Society of London]. Seeds. Anthers white, stigma yellow') and a species of Euphorbia ('[annual], in hilly dry grounds, common') [here the journal includes a list of approximately 25 more plants]

(20 Jun 1825) Travelling up the river with [Hudson's Bay Company] canoes on their way to the various trading posts inland: 'I was at a loss to decide whether my time would be better employed there or between here and the ocean', the seaside providing a rich harvest, and the interior probably less fertile, but possibly containing interesting items from the plains and the mountains. John McLoughlin, 'from whom I have experienced every attention and assistance', assuring Douglas he will do everything to make sure Douglas gets back to England, and that his time will be beneficial to the Horticultural Society, and comfortable for Douglas himself. Douglas considering joining the ship for Nootka [Nootka Sound, Vancouver Island, British Columbia], but McLoughlin informing him that, due to 'the turbulent disposition of the natives', opportunities for collecting would be limited, 'people having to be armed and in large parties'. Douglas deciding to stay on the Columbia [Columbia River], making trips from there when possible

The ascent up the river being slow due to the strong currents, Douglas taking the opportunity to make excursions on the banks and nearby hills. Having to shelter frequently in the creeks from the swelling water: 'although our canoes were considered good, yet we could not see each other except at a short distance, so great was the swell'. The Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids] ('as they are termed by Lewis and Clarke [Meriwether Lewis and William Clark]'), having been formed by the river passing through a narrow, rocky channel, with three small islands above it, one of them a burial ground of the people living on the southern banks of the river. The full length of the rapids being about two miles, but the water passing 'with great agitation' only for about half a mile. The level of water low at the present season, being nine feet higher in May, rising 12 feet between 24 May and 16 Jul. The banks high, steep and rugged, composed of limestone, sandstone and some blue and grey granite, with many large, petrified trees lying between the rocks. The trees appearing to be of two kinds, soft and hard wood, a pine and possibly Acer macrophylla [Acer macrophyllum], some measuring five feet in diameter

The rapids a popular fishing ground: 'this being the fishing season, the Indians are here numerous', coming several hundred miles for fishing, catching 'an almost incredible' number of salmon. The salmon being caught by making various small channels among the rocks before the water rose in the summer [here the journal includes a drawn illustration of the channels], and placing a platform over the channels to stand on. Fastening a net or a scoop net around a hoop at the end of a long pole, the person fishing placing the net at the top of the channel to be carried by the current: 'the poor salmon, in passing his agreeable road as he conceives it, thrusts himself in the net and is instantly thrown on the shore', the pole being tied to the platform to prevent it being snatched out of the fisher's hands. The hoop being made of Acer circinatum, a tough wood, the pole of pine, and the net from the bark of a species of Apocynum, being very durable

The fish being good quality, similar in size to those in the rivers of Europe, 15 to 25lbs, some more. Measuring two fish, the larger three feet five inches and 10 inches broad, weighing about 35lbs: 'both were purchased for 2 inches of tobacco (about 1/2 an ounce), value 2 pence', the same quantity in England costing £2 or £3, 'and not crisped [another version of Douglas's journal reads 'crimped'; see RHS/Col/5/2/1/1] as is termed by those acquainted with refinement of dishes, as I have it cooked under the shade of a lordly pine, far removed from the abodes of civilised life. It is wonderful the comfort, at least the pleasant idea of being comfortable in such a place, surrounded by multitudes of individuals, who perhaps had never before seen such people, and were we to judge by their appearance, are very hostile. The luxury of a night's sleep on a bed of pine branches can only be appreciated by those who have experienced a route over a barren plain, scorched by the sun or fatigue, by groping their way through a thick forest, crossing gullets [gully], dead wood, lakes and stones. Since I have been here, I have 3 times suffered much by fatigue and hunger. Twice I crawled, for I could hardly walk to an abandoned hut. I had in my knapsack one biscuit'. Killing two partridges ('the same sort as the one sent home') and boiling them in a small kettle for supper: 'the Canadian and the two Indians had eaten their dry salmon and were asleep'. Falling asleep before the birds were cooked, waking up at dawn to find the supper burned to ashes and three holes in the bottom of the kettle. 'Before leaving my resting place I had to make a little tea, which is the best of all food after fatiguing journeys. This was done by scouring out the lid of my tinderbox and boiling the water in it. I have oftentimes heard that necessity has many inventions, which I now know and partly believe'

'The natives are inquisitive in the extreme, treacherous and will pillage or murder when they can do it with impunity. Most of the tribes on the coast, Chenooks [Chinook], Cladsaps [Clatsop], Killemucks [Tillamook, also known as Nehalem] and Chilts [Chehalis], from the association they have had with Europeans, are anxious to imitate them. Many of them are not unfriendly, and some by no means destitute of abilities, will converse in English tolerably well, make articles after European models etc. Those in my canoe were much surprised to see me make an effervescent draught and drink it, boiling as they thought it. They know there are good and bad spirits, and that I belong to the latter class, in consequence of drinking boiling water, lighting my tobacco pipe with my lens etc. They call me 'Olla-piska [uləptski]', which in the Chenook tongue signifies fire. Placing a pair of spectacles on the nose is beyond all comprehension, the hand is immediately placed on the mouth, a token of dread or astonishment'

The salmon being also caught on sandy shores with no rapids or projecting rocks, with a draught net, as in Britain. The net being made of Apocynum bark, floated by pieces of wood or cork. From the rapids to the falls [Great Falls, also known as Celilo Falls, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Dalles Dam], for about 100 miles, the riverbanks steep and rugged, with high hills but no trees or large shrubs. No Acer found beyond the rapids, but seeing Thuja, Pinus balsamea [Abies balsamea] and one species of Populus, all gradually diminishing into low scrub-wood. 16 miles below the falls, 'we are no longer fanned by the huge pine stretching its branches in graceful attitude over a mountain rivulet or deep cavern, nor regaled by the quivering of the aspen in the breeze'. Seeing only extensive plains and barren hills, with all the vegetation scorched by the intense heat. On Saturday, crossing a plain, a 19-mile stretch of pure white sand, without any water: 'I suffered much from the heat and reflection of the sun's rays'

Temperature in the shade 97°, and the upper part of his feet blistering. Six miles below the falls, reaching the Dalles [Columbia River], as they are known by the voyageurs [French Canadian fur transporters], the water rushing through narrow channels, surrounded by 'singular', rugged rocks, worn by water, probably having previously formed the boundaries of the river. The present riverbed being over 6,000 feet lower. The Falls stretching across the river in an oblique direction: 'at present its effect is somewhat hid, the water being high. I am told it is fine at low water'. The ground on both sides high, the only vegetation being Berberis nervosa [identification unresolved as at Oct 2018] and aquifolia [Berberis aquifolium], Tigarea tridentata [Purshia tridentata] and a species of Ribes with bright scarlet fruit

Collecting plants during the journey ('some very fine and will, I am confident, amuse the lovers of plants in England') (specimens 296-369), including a species of Lupinus ('[perennial], a tall strong plant, all parts alike hairy white, flowers faint rose colour, with a tint of yellow. On the plains at the falls of the Columbia. Seeds'), a species of Achillea ('[perennial], among rocks'), a species of Clematis ('[perennial], white, banks of rivers'), Clarckia pulchella [Clarkia pulchella] ('[annual], Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh], figure and description accurate, flower rose colour. Abundant in sandy soils on the Columbia and its branches. Seeds. An exceedingly handsome plant, I hope it may grow in England') and a species of Alopecurus ('[perennial]') [here the journal includes a list of 68 more plants]. These plants collected during the ten-day journey, returning on 6 Jul

(6-19 Jul 1825) Arranging plants, writing and making journeys in the neighbourhood. Collecting plants (specimens 370-418), including a species of Stachys ('[perennial], flowers rose colour, edges of wood and rivers, common'), a species of Mentha ('[perennial], in all low grounds'), a species of Campanula ('[perennial], flowers white, teeth of the corolla reflexed after a few days' expansion, a small curious species in the woods. Seeds'), a species of Solidago ('[perennial], flowers yellow, in all elevated grounds'), a species of Rumex ('a strong plant in all marshes') and a species of Scirpus ('[perennial], a tall, strong plant, 4 to 8 feet high, in marshy ground. The natives make a sort of mat of it by weaving them together with twisted strings made from the leaves of Typha angustifolia. One of the mats is sent home. The tender part of the stem is eaten raw') [here the journal includes a list of 43 more plants]

(19 Jul 1825) Leaving his residence early in the morning in a small canoe, with 'one Canadian and 2 Indians', heading for the sea to search for a species of Cyperus mentioned by Frederick Traugott Pursh. Having to return without the plant after a journey of 12 days along the north shore of Cape Disappointment. Seeing several dead roots washed onto the shore, agreeing with the description of Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. His guide, 'tolerably conversant with most of the tongues spoken by the inhabitants of the coast', learning that the plant was abundant on the shore towards the south, near the river. Being unable to travel there due to wars between the local peoples. Losing many specimens due to continuous rain, and being unable to keep his blanket and plants dry, despite having a good oilcloth. Seeing many pelicans, possibly the same species as the one killed at Gallipagos [Galapagos Islands], a large, brown gull and a smaller, white gull with blue wings, but not managing to catch any of them. Catching plenty of small trout and young salmon in the creeks: 'with a small piece of biscuit and a little tea, I managed to live well'

Visiting Cockqua [Cockqua, Lower Chehalis chief], 'one of the principal chiefs of the Chenooks and Chits [Chehalis, a Salish tribe]. His acquaintance I previously had. He is exceedingly fond of all King George's [George IV of the United Kingdom] chiefs' words taught them by Broughton expedition & Vancouver [William Robert Broughton and George Vancouver, British Royal Navy officers], and other navigators visiting the river. He welcomed me to his village by a shake of his hand (he imitates all European manners), and a 'clachouie', which signifies 'How are you, friend', or 'food', water was brought for me to wash'. A fire being kindled, and Douglas taken to a large canoe, with a very large sturgeon, to choose a part to be cooked for him: 'in justice to my Indian friend, I cannot but say he afforded me the best meal I had had for a considerable time before, from the spine and head of the fish'

Sleeping in a 'tent [which] had been left here, in which 2 slept'. Cockqua, being at war with the Cladsop [Clatsop] nation from the opposite bank of the river, and, expecting an attack during the night, pressing Douglas to sleep in his lodge instead: 'this offer I would have most gladly accepted, but as fear should never be shown, I declined and slept in my tent about 50 yards from the village. In the evening about 300 men danced the war dance and sung several death songs. The description would occupy too much time. In the morning he said I was a great chief, for I was not afraid of the Cladsap'. One of Cockqua's men ('with not a little self-consequence') showing Douglas his skills with the bow and arrow and with a gun, passing arrows through a small hoop of grass, six inches in diameter, thrown into the air, and shooting with his rifle at a distance of 110 yards: 'he said no chief from King George could shoot like him, neither could they sing the death song nor dance the war dance'. Douglas shooting a large Falco leucocephala [Haliaeetus leucocephalus], perched on a tree stump, by walking within 45 yards of the bird, throwing a stone and shooting the flying bird: 'this had the desired effect. Many of them placed their right hands on their mouths, a gesture of fear'. Douglas being asked to shoot at the man's hat, throwing it in the air: 'the shot carried all the crown away, leaving nothing but the brim. My fame was sounded through the whole county, and a high value put on my gun. Ever since I find it to be of the utmost to bring down a bird flying when going near the lodges, at the same time taking care to make it appear as a little thing, and as if you were not observed'

At the lodge, seeing baskets, hats, cups and pouches 'of fine workmanship', some made with leaves of Typha angustifolia and Helonias tenax [Xerophyllum tenax], others of the tissues of Thuja roots and inner bark, or with linear-leaved Fucus and Carex. Being given a collection of items, including Cockqua's own hat, with promises that the maker, 'a little girl 12 years old, a relation of his', would make Douglas hats 'like the chiefs' hats from England'. Spending two days in the village, including a rainy day spent learning 'some of their favourite games', and being given pieces of wood 'made with a beaver tooth of Spiraea capitata [Physocarpus capitatus], used in one of the games'

(Aug 5 1825) Giving small presents of tobacco, knives, nails and gun flints. Returning up the river. Collecting plants during the journey (specimen numbers 419-446), including a species of Santolina ('[perennial], flowers yellow. A strong plant 2 to 3 feet high on the seashore. Abundant'), Samolus valerandi ('edges of creek and mountain springs. Plentiful'), a species of Lupinus ('[perennial], stem slender, creeping. Leaves digitate, leaflets 5-7, silky, linear. Legume. 8-12-seeded, generally 10. Pubescent seeds small, mottled. Root, large, tuberous and roasted by the natives, and sometimes chewed raw. This is the liquorice spoken of by Lewis and Clark [Meriwether Lewis and William Clark]. Abundant on the sea shore. Lupinus tuberosa [Lupinus littoralis, also known as Chinook licorice]. Seeds'), a species of Triticum ('very handsome. I regret that all the seeds of this fine plant were destroyed by birds') and Pteris aquilina [Pteridium aquilinium] ('abundant in all open woods and meadows. The roots are dried and eaten by the natives, boiled and roasted') [here the journal includes a list of 22 more plants]

(6-18 Aug 1825) Drying plants. Making occasional short trips in the neighbourhood. Collecting seeds of plants already collected. 'Nothing of interest occurred during this time'. Being frequently hampered by rainy weather

(19 Aug 1825) [Original manuscript reads 19 Jul] Leaving in a small canoe 'with one Canadian and 4 Indians', on their way to Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel], a branch of the Columbia River. Travelling about 56 miles. The river 'nearly as large as the Thames'. Seeing fine waterfalls 36 miles from the Columbia, 43 feet high, spanning the whole river, the water dividing into three channels during the dry season, rushing 'in an unbroken sheet' in the summer, rising to 47 feet in July, with little or no current from the Columbia to the falls. The riverbanks covered mainly with a species of Quercus and Populus, growing in rich soil. The current strong above the falls making it difficult to proceed, and having to spend three hours hauling the canoe up with ropes

The location previously considered to be one of the best hunting places west of the Rocky Mountains [Canada and United States of America]: 'I was much gratified in viewing the lodges & dams of that wise economist, the beaver'. Seeing plenty of deer, possibly Cervus wapiti [Cervus canadensis], a species mentioned by Mr Sabine in his description of the animals observed by Franklin's party [Joseph Sabine wrote a 'Zoological appendix' to John Franklin's 'Narrative of a journey to the shores of the Polar Sea, in the years 1819, 20, 21 and 22']. 17 deer killed during Douglas's ten-day stay: 'it grieved me exceedingly I was so placed that only a small young male, 4 months old, could be preserved', the one sent to England having been killed on crossing the river. Losing his notes about their measurements and colour, but hoping to visit again and preserve more of them. Their horns short, with three or four branches, about 15 inches long, the fur light brown with white on the belly, the young deer being white-spotted until six months old. The deer coming in the mornings to a nearby salt marsh. Killing five pigeons, their feet, legs and beaks yellow, with a white ring around the neck. Skinning one ('a miserable specimen')

Collecting plants and seeds (specimens 447-460), including Nicotiana pulverulenta [unidentified as at Aug 2018] ('of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh], correctly supposed by Nuttall [Thomas Nuttall] to exist on the Columbia. Whether this plant's original habitat is here, in the Rocky Mountains or on the Missouri [Missouri River, Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Iowa, Kansas and Missouri, United States of America], I am unable to say, but am inclined to think it must be in the mountains. The hunters inform me it is more abundant towards them, and particularly so on the ground of the Snake Indians [Northern Paiute, Bannock and Shoshone in Idaho, Oregon, Nevada, Utah, Wyoming, Montana and Canada], who visit the natives inhabiting the headwaters of the Missouri, by which it might be carried both directions. I saw only one plant before, in the hand of an Indian 2 months since at the Great Falls of the Columbia [Celilo Falls, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Dalles Dam], and although I offered him 2oz of manufactured tobacco, he would on no consideration part with it. It is not cultivated near the camps or villages, lest it should be used before mature. An open place in the wood is chosen where there is a dead tree or stump, which are burned and the seeds sown in the ashes. Fortunately I found one of the little plantations, and supplied myself without delay with specimens and seeds. On my way home the owner met me, who seeing it under my arm, appeared to be much displeased. On presenting him with a finger-length of European tobacco, his wrath was appeased and we became good friends. He gave me the above description of cultivating it. He told me that wood ashes made it grow very large! Seeds'), a species of Oxalis ('[perennial], flowers yellow, in woods'), a species of Lycopus ('in all wet meadows'), Phlox sabinii [unidentified as at Aug 2018] ('I considered myself fortunate in finding abundance of seeds of Phlox sabinii, a very small portion I had from the first place on the Columbia, here it was much stronger, 30 inches high in light, rich brown loam, in open places of the wood') and a species of Viburnum ('fruit black, a strong shrub. On the sides of rivulets, plentiful') [here the journal includes a list of approximately 10 more plants]

(30 Aug-3 Sep 1825) Returning from the journey. Arranging plants, drying seeds, and writing up notes. Going to the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids] to collect seeds of plants seen in flower in June and July. Travelling in a canoe with Chamtalia [also spelled Chumtalia], a local chief living on the northern side of the river at the rapids. Arriving on the second day in the evening. Staying in a tent near the village: 'I caused my Canadian to drench the ground well with water to prevent me from being annoyed with fleas, although I was not altogether exempted from them, yet it had a good effect'. Douglas finding his 'Indian friend' very attentive: '[I] received no harm nor insult. Here, only a few years since, they were very hostile. The company's [Hudson Bay Company] canoes have been pillaged, and some of their people killed by them. My visit was the first ever made without a guard'

Going to a mountain on the north side of the river on Saturday, guided by the chief's brother. Leaving 'the Canadian' to take care of the tent and his other property. The journey being 'one of the most laborious undertakings I ever experienced'. Being able to carry only a little paper for collecting through the rough road, with detached rocks, rivulets and dead wood: 'indeed I had to leave my blanket at the first encampment 2/3 up, which on my routes is all my bedding. My provision was 3oz tea, 1lb sugar and 4 small biscuits'. Catching no fish on the second day. Seeing no other birds except hawks and eagles at the high altitude. Killing one young white-headed eagle, and roasting it in his small tea pan: 'I found [it] very good'. Sleeping one night on the summit. Making a small fire of grass and twigs, and drying his clothes, wet from perspiration. Sleeping on the grass with his feet to the fire. Having to rise four times during the night to keep warm by the fire: 'fortunately it was dry, and a keen north wind prevented dew'. Returning to the tent on Monday morning, 'very much fatigued and weak'. Making another trip to the summit of a hill south of the river two days later. Sleeping there one night

Collecting plants and seeds (specimens 461-462, 263-265, 466-499]), including several species of Pinus ('a tall, splendid tree, glaucous leaves. Probably I am mistaken, which I thought to be plentiful on the banks of the river. This I think more likely to be it [?Pseudotsuga menziesii, Douglas fir]. The cones being on the top, I was unable to procure any, the trees being too large to be cut down with my hatchet, and as to climbing I have already learned the propriety of leaving no property below [for the incident referred to, when his coat was stolen while he climbed a tree during his first journey, see RHS/Col/5/1/1/1, 20 Sep 1823]. I found the top was too weak to bear me. The height was so great, that I could not bring down any with shot from my gun'), Helonias tenax [Xerophyllum tenax] ('this very interesting plant gave at first much pleasure, seeing it in an imperfect state. I looked on it as certain either to find flowers or seed. After a search of 3 days, I had to content myself with strong plants of this year's growth, and decayed stalks and capsules of last. No seeds could be found. Probably only flowers every other year. Is not eaten by any animals. Its beautiful green bids defiance to the intense cold of its high habitation, the temperature 45° in the shade on the summit of the hill. The same day at noon at Fort Vancouver 84°. The Indians of the Columbia call it 'quip quip'. Pursh is correct as to their making watertight baskets of its leaves. Last night my Indian friend Cockqua arrived here from the sea, and brought, according to promise, 3 of the hats, made in the English fashion, which I ordered when there in July. The 4th, which will have some initials wrought in it, is not yet finished, but will be sent in the other ship. I think them a good specimen of the natives' ingenuity. Paid for them one blanket (value 7/ [7s]), the 4th one included. We smoked, [and I] gave him a dram, a few needles, pins, beads and rings as a present to the little girl, the maker of the hats. He brought me a large quantity of the berries of Vaccinium ovatum, which I showed him when there, then in an unripe state'), a species of Artemisia, a small species of Pyrola and Cornus canadensis ('in fruit') [here the journal includes a list of 33 more plants]

(13 Sep-3 Oct 1825) Returning [to Fort Vancouver]. Learning from John Scouler ('who had taken possession of my house') that the ship would be returning to England shortly. Drying seeds and specimens, packing and transcribing the journal. Writing to Joseph Sabine, William Jackson Hooker, Stewart Murray, Archibald Menzies and his brother [John Douglas]. Intending to go the following morning to ensure the boxes would be placed safely on the ship

[The following entries were originally written on loose pages, which were later folded and pasted onto the volume]

(4 Oct 1825) Injuring his knee by falling on a rusty nail while packing boxes and being unable to take the boxes to the ship. Writing a note to Captain Henry Hanwell, requesting the boxes to be placed 'in an airy situation', particularly the chest of seeds, and preferably above the water level. Giving Hanwell a note for Joseph Sabine. Receiving a quick response with a promise to comply with Douglas's request and to visit Sabine on arrival in England

(7 Oct 1825) Douglas's leg becoming 'violently inflamed', with a large abscess on the knee joint, lasting until 16 Oct: 'it is needless to observe that I was unable to continue my labour or increase my collection during the time. This very unfortunate circumstance gave me much uneasiness, being my seed harvest'

(22 Oct-15 Nov 1825) Learning that the ship had been detained by contrary winds. Feeling much better and wishing to take advantage of the season. Leaving Fort Vancouver in a small canoe, accompanied by '4 Indians' to visit his old shipmates, intending to continue to Whitby's Harbour of Vancouver [Gray's Harbor, Washington] on Cheecheeler River [Chehalis River, Washington] at latitude 48° to collect new plants and plants for which there were only imperfect specimens, including Helonias tenax [Xerophyllum tenax], 'a very desirable plant for cultivation'. Camping at the junction of the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel] at sunset, after travelling only 20 miles, a strong westerly wind setting in from the sea. Leaving at dawn on Sunday morning, but having to have the canoe 'freshly gummed' [to waterproof it] before leaving the encampment. Striking a tree stump after a few miles, the canoe splitting and Douglas having to paddle quickly to the shore: 'during the time my Indians were repairing it, I occupied the office of cook', making himself tea and boiling salmon for them. Continuing the journey at 10am

Arriving at Oak Point village [Washington] at 8pm to find food, and receiving (from 'an Indian') a letter from John Scouler, the surgeon of the ship, informing him the ship would not leave for a few more days. Wishing to write to Joseph Sabine 'up to that date'. Going four miles further down the river to dine, having obtained some dried salmon and a wild goose. Continuing the journey at 11pm, expecting to reach the sea 43 miles away before dawn. Having to stop at 4am on Monday morning due to a strong breeze: 'indeed this was almost necessary under any circumstance, my canoe being so frail'

Landing at the mouth of the river and finding 'from the natives' that the ship had sailed an hour before. Feeling disappointed, having his letter ready to dispatch. After breakfast, the canoe men lying down to sleep, and Douglas taking his gun and knapsack to walk along the bay looking for seeds. Returning in the evening to the lodge of Madsue or Thunder [Comcomly], one of the Chenook [Chinookan] chiefs. Finding Madsue's brother Tha-a-muxi, or the Bear, a chief from Cheecheeler River [Chehalis River] or Whitby Harbour [Gray's Harbor], on his way home. Tha-a-muxi offering to accompany Douglas

(25 Oct 1825) Tuesday. Being ferried across the river by Madsue [Comcomly] in a large canoe: 'I found his [canoe] so much more commodious than mine that I bargained with him for a lend of it, which he did'. Camping at sunset near Knight's River [Wallacut River, Washington] in Baker's Bay [Baker Bay]

Giving the two chiefs in the evening 'a dram of well-watered rum, which pernicious liquor they will make any sacrifice to obtain. I found an exception in my new guide [Tha-a-muxi]. On my inquiring the reason, he informed me with much mirth that some years ago he got drunk and became very quarrelsome, so much so that the young men of his village had to take and bind him hand and foot, which he looks on as a great disgrace, and will never taste any more. In lieu of that I found him an expensive companion in the way of smoking, so greedily would he seize the pipe and inhale any particle of smoke in the lungs, that regularly, 5 or 6 times a day, he would fall down in a state of stupefaction. Smoking with them being indispensable, of course, I had to join. I found my mode gave him as much sport as his did me. He observed 'Oh, why do you throw away the food? Look at me, I take it in my belly''

On Wednesday, travelling four miles over Cape Disappointment, the north point of the Columbia River, to a small rivulet flowing into the ocean 12 miles to the north. Finding it difficult to drag the canoe through the wood, over rocks, stumps and gullets [gully]. Going a few miles along the coast. A thick fog with drizzly rain setting in two hours before dusk. Having to camp for the night under a rock a little above the tidemark, overshadowed by large pines. His knee becoming more painful and stiff due to having had to carry the canoe, or because of the rain and cold

Continuing the journey at dawn after 'a comfortless night's rest'. Having nothing to eat, apart from 'a small cake of chocolate, about 2 ounces', not having been able to procure salmon in the village the previous day. Travelling as quickly as possible. Reaching Cape Foulweather [Douglas appears to have been at Cape Shoalwater, Washington, and may be confusing the name with Cape Foulweather south of the Columbia River, in Oregon] in the evening, 40 miles along the coast. With sixteen miles left, realising it was 'too great an undertaking for so few', sending 'two of the Indians' with the canoe to the Columbia River. Not having had any food, they preferred leaving the same evening, hoping to obtain some fish. Douglas staying behind with his guide [Tha-a-muxi] and two others. After about two hours, 'a most violent hurricane' setting in. Douglas worrying about the safety of the travellers, but learning later they had sheltered in a creek. Feeling very hungry in the evening and collecting berries of Arbutus uva-ursi [Arctostaphylos uva-ursi], the only thing he was able to find. Being unable to make a fire due to the heavy rain and wind. Not seeing any birds, all the wild [fowl] having fled to more sheltered parts. Ready to leave Cape Foulweather ('which name it merits')

Deciding to walk to the north side of Whitbey Harbour [Gray's Harbor], having been two days without food, and his guide expecting a fishing party there from his village. Arriving at 6pm: 'I can hardly tell what state I was in'. The storm continuing to be violent, preventing the fishing party from leaving their village, 'which increased my misery'. The guide and the Indians collecting driftwood [for fuel] and Douglas making a small booth of pine branches, straw and some old mats, his blanket having got wet in the rain and there being nowhere to dry it: 'I deemed it prudent not to lay down to sleep, therefore I spent this night at the fire'

Feeling much worse on Saturday and his knee too painful all day to move. 'Crawling out' at dusk with his gun, killing five ducks ('with one shot') and cooking them: 'one of the Indians eat [ate] a part of his share raw. To save time I singed the feathers off mine and with a bason [basin] of tea, I made a good supper. I was certainly hungry, but as soon as I saw the birds fall, my appetite fled. I could hardly persuade myself I had been in want'. Their guides arriving at midnight, attracted by the fire and expecting the chief to arrive. Douglas remaining asleep, and being woken up in the morning by Tha-a-muxi: 'he would not allow them to wake me or make any noise, having had but little rest for the 3 preceding nights'

Killing two large gulls during the bay crossing, one white with bluish wings and black feathers, the other mottled grey, and a species of Colymbus [grebe or loon], but not being able to preserve them. Reaching the guide's [Tha-a-muxi] house before dusk: 'I had every kindness and all the hospitality Indian courtesy could suggest'. Staying for several days. Finding seeds of Helonias, but not finding much else due to the lateness of the season. Collecting plenty of seeds of Carex (specimen 432, 'splendid') and Lupinus, 'called by them somuchtan' (specimen 426, 'the roots of this plant are gathered and roasted in the embers and eaten. This is the liquorice alluded to by Lewis and Clarck [Meriwether Lewis and William Clark]. It contains a large quantity of farinaceous substance, and it is a very nutritious food'). Collecting several other new seeds

(7 Nov 1825) Proceeding up the river in a canoe with his guide. Stopping when seeing 'anything different from what I had seen'

(11 Nov 1825) Finding the canoe too large to pass many places in the shallow, cascading waters 60 miles from the ocean. Deciding not to proceed further. Giving his guide Tha-a-muxi 'such presents as was adequate for the service and kindness I experienced of him'. The guide requesting Douglas shave him, 'as he had pretentions to civilisation and imitated with much nicety English manners'. Douglas inviting him to visit at new year, 'when I should give him a smoke, a dram and shave him again. He told me before he left to let all King George chiefs know of him, when I spoke to them with paper'

The river [Chehalis River] a large stream, nearly as large as the Thames, rapid with numerous cascades, and rocky, steep banks covered with woods similar to those on the Columbia River

Staying at a village: 'I bargained with an Indian to carry my baggage on his horse to the Cow-a-lidsk River [Cowlitz River, Washington], 40 miles distant. I had some difficulty in arranging with this fellow and found him the most mercenary rascal I have yet met. Having no alternative, I had to give him 20 shots of ammunition, 2 feet of tobacco, a few flints and a little vermilion'. The rain too heavy the following day to proceed

(13 Nov 1825) Setting out early in the morning 'with my two Indians on foot, the horse carrying the baggage and owner'. The roads being very bad and flooded due to the heavy rains, and Douglas having to take off his clothes and swim across some of them. Torrential rain in the afternoon. The country a plain, with no place for camping

Reaching Cowalidsk [Cowlitz River] at sunset, 'being greatly fatigued'. The route following the foot of Mount St Helens of Vancouver [Washington], a few miles to the north-east. Schachanaway, 'the chief' [Scanewa, chief of the Cowlitz] had brought some potatoes, flour, molasses and rum from a trading visit, 'all of which I had a portion. A small boat had been lent to him, which I considered a fortunate circumstance, as it enabled me to proceed without delay'

(14 Nov 1825) Setting off before 5am, after breakfast. Camping in the afternoon on a small, wooded island near the Columbia River, 55 miles from the ocean. The river large, 150-200 yards wide, deep and rapid, with currents running over five or six miles an hour. The boat grounding at ebb tide. Having to wait for the tide in the morning, 'not having strength enough to slide her along on the sand'. Proceeding up the Columbia River at 6am with a fresh breeze. Arriving at Fort Vancouver at 12.30pm, after 25 days 'during which I experienced more fatigue, and gleaned less than [on] any trip I have had in the country'

Collecting plants during his journey (specimens 500-510), including a species of Cerastium ('stem prostrate. Flowers small, white. On the sandy shores of rivers. Plentiful'), a species of Artemisia ['[perennial], tall, 3 to 4 feet high. Erect and rarely branching. A fine species. Banks of the Cow-a-lidsk River [Cowlitz River]. Rare'), a species of Portulaca ('[annual], creeping. Plentiful on sands in islands and low soils'), a plant in the class Syngenesia ('[perennial], abundant on the margins of lakes and rivers, and all low, damp grounds') and a species of Pinus ('a low tree, rarely more than 20 to 40 feet high, and seldom thicker than 10 or 18 inches in diameter. On the barren grounds between Cape Foulweather [Cape Shoalwater] and Whitby Harbour [Gray's Harbor]. Plentiful') [here the journal includes a list of 5 more plants]

(16 Nov-31 Dec 1825) Due to his 'infirm state' and the rainy season, Douglas 'totally banished every thought from my mind of being able to do much more in the way of botany for a season', regretting having to abandon his work

(18 Nov 1825) The 'express [York Factory Express or Columbia Express, Hudson's Bay Company annual fur brigade transporting supplies and despatches between Hudson Bay, Manitoba, Canada and Fort Vancouver in Washington], consisting of 2 boats and 40 men', arriving from Hudson's Bay [Hudson Bay, Canada], having left on 21 Jul: 'in this distant land, where there is only an annual post, it might be expected they were welcome guests. I hastened to the landing-place, congratulating myself on the news from England, where I learned with regret there were no letters, parcel, or an article for me'. Having left Hudson's Bay before the arrival of the ship that had left London the previous May, the party had left any possible letter from Joseph Sabine on the other side of the continent until the following November

Mr McLeod [John McLeod, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, explorer], 'the person in charge', had met Captain Franklin's [John Franklin] party in July at Cumberland Lake [Saskatchewan, Canada] on their way to their winter residence at Bear Lake [Great Bear Lake, Northwest Territories, Canada]. Hearing a Mr Drummond [Thomas Drummond, Scottish botanist] was accompanying the party as a botanist, having come with McLeod to the foot of the Rocky Mountains, intending to spend the summer in the country near the Peace [Peace River, British Columbia and Alberta, Canada] and Smoky Rivers [Smoky River, Alberta]: 'this I take to be Drummond of Forfar, from the description given of him'

McLeod ('an agreeable gentlemanly man, and from whom I have had much civility') had spent the last five years at Fort Good Hope [Northwest Territories] on the Mackenzie River [Yukon and Northwest Territories, Canada]. MacLeod knowing the area very well, and informing Douglas that, 'if the natives can be believed, with whom he was well known and spoke their language fluently', there was another large river west of the Mackenzie River, running parallel to it and falling into the sea near Icy Cape [Alaska, United States of America], with a trading post at the mouth of the river on a wooded island. In this trading post, 'the people have large beards and are very wicked. They have hanged several of the natives to the rigging, and are ever since in much disrepute amongst them. Much stress may with all safety be laid on this statement, as Mr M. showed me some Russian coins, metal combs etc. But the most convincing proof, and proves that the difficulty of transportation by land or water is trifling, is large 4, 5 & 6-gallon malleable iron pots of very different workmanship from anything in the trade of the British Fur Company. He exchanged some of his for them'. The sea west of the Mackenzie River said to be open after July, making it possible to reach Icy Cape by land ('!!!'): 'he had the Indians assembled for the purpose of extending their territory in that direction', before having to leave for Hudson's Bay: 'in him there is a great example of perseverance, visiting the Polar Sea [Arctic Ocean], the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans in the short space of 11 months'

During the short spells of good weather, Douglas 'crawling out' to shoot birds or other animals, or to collect Musci or cryptogamic plants in the woods. Hardly any frost yet (15 Dec) and the days pleasant when dry, but the nights cold and damp

(24 Dec 1825) Torrential rain, his small Thuja bark hut flooding, with 14 inches of water in it. John McLoughlin inviting Douglas to stay in his half-finished house, 'as my lodgings were not of the most comfortable sort'. Taking his belongings there on Christmas day. 'After the morning service was performed, they took an airing on horseback', but Douglas unable to join them due to his 'troublesome knee'. Seeing in an old American newspaper a notice of 'Mr James McRae's famous trip to Sandwich Islands [Hawaii, United States of America] and South America [Horticultural Society plant collector, who travelled to Hawaii and South America. For the papers of James McRae, 1824-1826, see RHS/Col/6]'

(1 Jan 1826) Sunday. 'Commencing a new year in such a far removed corner of the globe, where I am nearly destitute of civilised society, there is some scope for reflection'. On this day in 1824, being on the Atlantic on his way to England, in 1825, between the islands of Juan Fernandez [Juan Fernandez Islands] and the Gallipagos [Galapagos Islands] in the Pacific Ocean

(2 Jan-1 Mar 1826) 'As my journal would be of little interest containing little more than a statement of weather and so on, it is not worth transcribing'. Hunting birds during the season, including silver-headed eagle [?bald eagle], abundant all over the country by all rivers with fish, perching on dead stumps and trees over the water, in particular near the cascades and falls: 'it is a very wary bird, and difficult to kill'. Their call a shrill whistle ('something like 'tuck chuck''), the birds building their nests in large trees on conspicuous points on the riverbanks and having two to four young at a time. The young birds keeping to their nest for several weeks and rarely going far. The colour of the first plumage brownish-black, turning into mottled grey the first spring, and the head and tail turning white during their second year

Returning from the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids] the previous September, Douglas seeing an eagle take a sturgeon 15 inches long, weighing 4lbs, out of the water: 'I lifted my gun and brought him down. The claws were so firmly clenched through the cartilaginous substance of the back, that he did not let go before I introduced a needle in the vertebrae of the neck'

Hunting other birds, including the common magpie (rare in the low country, the first one seen in November. Hearing they were plentiful in the upper country, perhaps migrating there in the summer. The birds being similar to the European species, except in size and the brighter azure purple of the male tail feathers: 'the American sort has the same trait of annoying horses that have any sores about them'. Killing a pair in January), wood partridge (not rare, but not as numerous as on the other side of the continent, living in dry, gravelly soils among hazel bushes and other brushwood on the outskirts of woods, very shy and staying in the low thicket: 'it is only by a chance shot on wing they can be secured. I preserved 2 pairs of this fine species, but a villainous rat mutilated one of the males so much that it is unfit to be sent home. Since I could not replace it on the Multnomah [Multnomah Channel], there is one of a very diminutive size'), small blue jay (distinct species from C. cristatus [Cuculus cristatus, Coua cristata] of Wilson [James Wilson, zoologist]: 'indeed I do not remember any species that will agree with it in his work', the common blue jay being a shy bird, seen in the autumn in large flocks, rarely near houses. This bird usually seen in flocks of 30-40, very tame, visiting the dunghills of Indian villages like the English robin. Preserving three) and a species of buzzard or vulture ('the largest of all birds here, the swan excepted'. Killing one with a buck shot through the head, rendering the bird unfit to be preserved: 'I regret it exceedingly, for I am confident it is not yet described'. Not having been successful in shooting another one. On finding a dead animal, the birds 'eat so glutiously [gluttonously] that they have been unable to fly, and have been killed with a stick. They are of the same colour as the small Canadian buzzard sent home. Beak and legs bright yellow. The feathers of the wings are highly prized by the Canadian voyageurs for making tobacco pipe stems. I am shortly to try to take them in a baited steel trap, gleaned from the hunters') [here the journal includes a list of 6 more birds]

A smaller variety of quadrupeds than in other parts of America, but including elk ('which the hunters say agrees precisely with the biche of the other side of the continent'. Plentiful in the woods), two species of rabbits and one species of hare ('neither I have seen alive'), a 'most singular sort' of fox [gray fox] ('smaller than any other, except the white fox of the other side', 33-40 inches long, with short, coarse hair, 'and, what is very singular, it is brown at the bottom, white in the middle and black at the points, which gives a light grey colour', with a white belly, light brown sides and a black stripe on the back: 'it differs from most of the genus in its propensity for climbing trees, he mounts with as much facility as a squirrel'. Seeing it first on the Multnomah in August, and hoping to be able to procure some before leaving) and lynx ('on a hunting excursion with Mr McLeod in February, we started a large lynx, [and] a small bulldog belonging to him instantly caught it by the throat and killed it without any trouble. The skin being not much destroyed, I had it prepared neatly') [here the journal includes a list of 3 more animals]

(20 Feb 1826) Jean Baptist McKay [Jean Baptiste Desportes McKay, French-Algonquin free trapper], one of the hunters returning from the Multnomah [Multnomah Channel], bringing Douglas a cone of a species of Pinus. Douglas having asked McKay the previous August to bring him 12 cones, twigs and a small bag of seeds, having seen large seeds and scales 'in an Indian's shot-pouch' and been told ('after treating him to a smoke, which must be done before any questions are put') the tree grew a little to the south. Receiving instead only one cone and being told that there were no seeds during that season: 'as he left strict orders with some of his Indian friends, I am certain of securing abundance of it in the summer'. The tree belonging to Pursh's [Frederick Traugott Pursh] '2. section', 20-50 feet in circumference, 170-220 feet high, almost without branches until the top, the wood fine with plenty of resin: 'growing trees that have been burned by the natives to save the trouble of collecting other fuel, a thing they practice greatly, produces a quantity of a sugar-like substance, which is used in seasoning, in the same manner as sugar in civilised society'. The seeds gathered at the end of the summer, pounded and baked into a cake, 'considered a great treat amongst them. The Indian assured me he should give me plenty of it to eat when I visited his lands'

Obtaining an elk snare from McKay, 'a netted purse, of ingenious workmanship, made of a durable grass, I think will prove a new species of Helonias'. Asking McKay to bring him the plant and seeds. Offering him a 'little compensation to attend to anything that may attract his attention' and giving him some paper bags, paper and fine shot for shooting the crested partridge. Being grateful to John McLoughlin for explaining to McKay what Douglas wanted

Concluding there is still much to do around the country: 'after a careful consideration as to the propriety of remaining in the country for a season longer than I am instructed to do, I have finally resolved not to leave for one year to come'. Having seen some of the upper country towards the head of the river and the Rocky Mountains, 'I cannot in justice to the Society's interest do otherwise'. Being however uncertain of his justification for staying, apologising if his decision should not be approved: 'in doing so, two considerations presented themselves, first, as I am incurring little or no expense, and second, being laid up an invalid last autumn during the end of my seed harvest, and doubtless lost many things, which I would have otherwise been in possession of'. 'Most cheerfully will I labour for this year without any remuneration, if I am only allowed a little to purchase some clothing'

Having the opportunity to cross the continent to Montreal [Quebec, Canada]: 'could never for a moment forget myself so far as to pass over unnoticed a country deserving the strictest research'. If crossing the continent should be impossible in spring 1827, promising to attempt to reach London by sea, but hoping that would not be necessary. Planning to stay at Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Wallula] ('the lowest'), Spokane [Spokane House, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Spokane, Washington] ('the middle'), or Kettle Falls [Fort Colvile at Kettle Falls, Hudson Bay Company's trading post, Washington; Fort Colvile and Kettle Falls were later submerged by Grand Coulee Dam] ('the highest establishment on the Columbia, and its branches as may appear most interesting, and as the distance does not exceed more than 800 miles, frequent journeys can be made to and from each in the course of the season'). Expecting the ship which he was to return on to reach the coast soon, but not expecting to be on the coast himself until November, therefore intending to pack up his collection to send to England now, send his seeds to Hudson's Bay and 'make a few extracts of my journal, which at this season cannot be expected to afford much interesting matter'

(1-20 Mar 1826) Packing his collection in two boxes to be sent to England by the first ship, and preparing for the journey to the interior: 'the whole of this time was very rainy, not so much as one fair day'. Temperature 40°-45°, with westerly winds

With assistance from John McLoughlin, packing up 30 quires of paper, weighing 102lbs, 'which, with the whole of my other necessary articles, is by far more than I could expect when the labour and difficulty of transportation is taken into consideration'. Packing in a small tin box 197 seed papers to be sent across the continent to Hudson's Bay. Dried plants being too bulky to be sent on that route and more likely to reach England in good condition by sea, as otherwise the chests would have to be lined with 'tin or some such article, to preserve them against water, things which cannot be had in this country'

(20 Mar 1826) Leaving Fort Vancouver in the afternoon along with John McLeod, on his way to Hudson's Bay, and Mr Francis Ermatinger [possibly in fact Francis's brother, Edward Ermatinger; both the brothers were Hudson's Bay Company fur traders]. A rainy day. Camping among poplars and willows on the north side of the river, a few miles from the establishment [Hudson's Bay company trading post]

Continuing the journey at dawn. Not managing to proceed more than 35 miles up the river in the strong easterly wind. Camping seven miles below the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids]. Continuous rain. Camping on a small, stony island ten miles above the rapids the following night. The rapids 'seen to advantage', the river being low, and the scenery 'fine beyond description', with high, pine-covered mountains: 'the rainbow from the vapour of the agitated water, which rushes with furious rapidity over the shattered rocks and through the deep caverns, producing an agreeable although at the same time a somewhat melancholy echo through the thick woody valley. The reflections from the snow, with the vivid green of the lordly pines, presents a spectacle of rustic grandeur, more than I can imagine or describe'

(23 Mar 1826) Thursday. A 'fine' wind. Continuing the journey at dawn. Reaching the lower part of the Dalles [Columbia River] at dusk, six miles below the Great Falls [Celilo Falls]. 'As the natives had collected in greater numbers than usual, and showed some disposition to be troublesome, not getting such a large present of tobacco as they want, we were under the necessity of watching the whole night'. Having some wax tapers remaining ('which are invaluable') and using them for writing a note to Stewart Murray at Glasgow [Glasgow Botanic Gardens]. Arranging some Musci collected the previous day

(24 Mar 1826) Friday. Relieved in the morning, 'after a tedious night [...] being surrounded by at least 450 Indians and if we judge from appearances, [they were] anything but amicable'. Continuing the journey after breakfast to the second portage of the Great Falls [Celilo Falls]. Camping three miles above the falls: 'as we were followed by great numbers of Indians, no sleep could be had this night'. To stay awake, writing to William Jackson Hooker in Glasgow. Heavy rain during the night

(25 Mar 1826) Resuming the journey at dawn. Sleet and rain, with a northerly wind: 'I preferred walking along the banks of the [river], being almost benumbed with cold', despite the path being rugged. Camping 46 miles above the falls [Great Falls, or Celilo Falls], 'much fatigued'. Finding his knee painful and stiff during the night and the following morning

(26-28 Mar 1826) Clear, warm weather, temperature 50°-64°. Arriving at the establishment of Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces] at 3pm. Being kindly received by S. Black [Samuel Black, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, explorer], 'the person in charge'. No trees growing on the gravel and rock plains. Using Tigarea tridentata [Purshia tridentata] as fuel for boiling their little kettle. Seeing several curious species of shrubby Artemisia, and other unknown shrubs: 'the whole herbage differs so much from that on the coast that few of them are known to me'

Seeing a ridge of high, snowy mountains towards the south-east, 90 miles away, terminating near the ocean, about 300 miles south of the Columbia [Columbia River]. Expecting to find there most of the plants found in the Rocky Mountains, Black having arranged a journey for him in early June for 15-20 days. The river running south-west towards the ocean, with rapids in many places making it very dangerous

(30 Mar 1826) Thursday. Continuing the journey early in the morning. Walking on the plains along the river until 10am. Stopping for breakfast opposite Lewis and Clark's River [Lewis and Clark River, Oregon], 'a stream of considerable magnitude', 100-150 yards wide. Hearing there were plenty of salmon to be caught as far up as the Falls [Great Falls, or Celilo Falls], and on some of the branches of the river, passing through the country for 1500 miles. A fine, clear day. Writing a note to Mr Atkinson at Grove End [the Atkinson residence in St John's Wood, London]

Resuming walking in the cool evening, 'picking any[thing] on my way'. Camping on a low, grassy island 40 miles from the establishment [trading post]. Seeing no trees. The soil light brown earth, sandy and gravelly on the riverbanks. Seeing several species of Lupinus, Oenothera and some bulbous plant

(31 Mar 1826) Clear weather, and a fine sky in the evening

(1 Apr 1826) The river narrowing and the country becoming mountainous, the riverbanks composed of white clay with no vegetation except in the valleys. The river running towards the east following a bend. Camping on the Priest Rapids [Columbia River, Washington] at 7pm. Writing to his 'old companion' John Scouler of Glasgow

(2-6 Apr 1826) Continuing the journey each day at dawn and camping at dusk. Arriving at 8pm at the establishment on the Okanagan River [Fort Okanogan, Hudson Bay Company's trading post, Washington], a northern branch of the Columbia River. Being cordially received by Mr Annance, 'the person in charge' [Francis Annance, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader]. The riverbanks steep granite and sandstone, with an 'immense' species of Pinus ('Pinus rubra? [?Pinus sylvestris, Pinus resinosa or Picea rubens]') growing in the valleys and in damp places. Not being able to collect anything due to snow, up to five feet deep in some places

(7-8 Apr 1826) Searching unsuccessfully for grouse on the plains. Seeing only one small black partridge, 'the same as the one sent home in 1825'

(9 Apr 1826) Continuing the journey early in the morning on horseback 'in company with my 2 companions', to meet the boats up the river. The path around the mountain very rough, with broken stones covered in snow. Seeing beautiful yellow lichen on dead brushwood: 'it affords a very durable, beautiful yellow colour, and is used by the natives in dyeing'. The snow two to four feet deep. Meeting the boats at 11am. Continuing the journey by boat after breakfast. A dry and pleasant day with a beautiful clear sky in the evening. Camping after 20 miles

(10-11 Apr 1826) Monday-Tuesday. The weather warm and pleasant, temperature 55°-69°. Arriving at sunset at the junction of the Columbia River and the Spokane River [Washington and Idaho, United States of America]. Finding John Warren Dease [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader] ('commandant in the interior') with a party of 14 men, on their way to Kettle Falls, 90 miles up the Columbia: 'I was by this gentleman received with extreme civility and had every comfort that could be suggested'. Dease being the brother of 'the person now accompanying Captain Franklin [Peter Warren Dease, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader and arctic explorer accompanied John Franklin on his expedition] on his 2 journeys to the shores of the Polar Sea [Arctic Ocean]'. Being introduced to Dease by 'the general notice sent by that agreeable gentleman Mr McLoughlin [John McLoughlin]'. This part of the river the most beautiful and varied, with extensive plains and groups of pine trees ('like an English lawn'), rising bluffs covered with small brushwood and rugged rocks covered with ferns, mosses and lichens

(12-13 Apr 1826) Drying wet paper and some small plants collected during the journey. Writing to Joseph Sabine, Donald Munro and Douglas's brother [John Douglas]. Copying his notes. Pleasant weather

Meeting Mr Work [John Work, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader], being acquainted with him from the previous year, Work having sent him some seeds from the interior and given him information about the local plants. Noting that the package of seeds 'marked 'wormwood of the voyageurs' is Tigarea tridentata [Purshia tridentata], [and] that which I marked myself is a singular species of Crataegus found only in the interior'. Intending to continue the journey to Kettle Falls within a few days, stopping at various places 'as seems best calculated for fulfilling the objects of my mission. I am reluctantly obliged to seal my parcel, as Mr M. [John McLeod] is just in his canoe (4 o'clock am) and have not time to copy the list of my plants, some of which are very interesting. Ribes 1 species, Astragalus 2, Oxytropis lambertii, general new of Umbelliferae, Pulmonaria. D. Douglas'

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1 volume

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RHS archive: plant collector papers

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Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library

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Royal Horticultural Society

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RHS Lindley Collections

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