Second expedition of David Douglas: Journal 1

Title

Second expedition of David Douglas: Journal 1

Record type

Archive

Original Reference

RHS/Col/5/2/1/1

Date

25 Jul 1824-1 Mar 1826

Scope & content

David Douglas's journal relating to his second expedition to the north-western coast of North America, covering the journey from England via Madeira, Cabo Verde, Brazil, Juan Fernandez Islands and Galapagos Islands to the Columbia River

Overview of contents:
Pages 1-142: Narrative of journey, 25 Jul 1824-1 Mar 1826
Pages 143-144: 'Box second, continued'
Pages 145-151: Narrative of journey, 1 Mar 1826
Pages 152-160: Blank
Pages 161-162: 'Box 4th'
Page 163: 'Copy of the contents of the boxes sent home by the William & Ann 1825'
Page 164: 'Box 2nd'
Page 165: 'Added to No 2, Aug 31 1826'
Pages 167-168: 'Box 3'
Page 169: 'Collection packed in March 1826, box first'
Pages 171-177: Notes on the habitat, distribution, behaviour and appearance of quadrupeds
Page 179: Notes on P. contorta [Pinus contorta]
Page 181: Notes on quadrupeds continued
Page 183: An unidentified map
Page 185: 'Sent from the Kettle Falls on the Columbia'

Physical description: Bound in hard covers with marbled paper sides in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins, with brown and purple veined endpapers. Labelled 'Fair Journal, David Douglas 1823'. The binding is in fair condition. Many leaves are detached, and there are loose inserted slips of paper and leaves of various sizes pasted in at the rear of the volume. Dimensions: 32.5 (h) 20.5 (w) cm

This journal is a draft version. Another version of this was written later by Douglas (for another version of Douglas's journal, 24 Jul 1824-13 Apr 1826, see RHS/Col/5/2/1/2). A transcription combining the two texts was published by the Royal Horticultural Society in 1914, edited by the secretary of the Society, Rev William Wilks and the librarian, H.R. Hutchinson, with the title 'Douglas' journal 1823-1827'

The volume is written in David Douglas's hand. Loose leaves at the rear of the volume include additions in Douglas's hand and in an unidentified hand. There are annotations in pencil and ink in another hand, probably by the editors of the journals in 1914. These annotations expand abbreviations, clarify spelling and separate the entries, and have not been noted in the description

The volume is written initially on rectos only, and then reversed and written on versos (entries 1 Jan 1825-7 Apr 1825, pages 53-62); thereafter it is written on both rectos and versos

Original pagination is on the upper right-hand corners of rectos and versos. The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing

Enclosures: The volume includes four loose inserts comprising notes on plants (inserted at pages 71, 77, 79 and 97)

Illustrations: There is a small drawing of a steam hut or a sauna on page 82, within the entry for 1 May 1825. The text includes symbols to indicate annual or perennial plants, which have been rendered in the description as [annual] and [perennial]

Summary of contents:

(25 Jul 1824) Leaving London at 8.30am by the Times Coach to Gravesend. Passing rye and barley fields. Going on board the Hudson Bay Company ship William and Ann, with Captain Hanwell [Henry Hanwell, captain of the William and Ann], bound for the Columbia River [Washington and Oregon, United States of America, and British Columbia, Canada], north-west coast of America. Returning on shore at 2pm. Seeing his brother [?John Douglas junior] to the steamboat for London in the evening and returning to the ship

(26 Jul 1824) Monday. Stowing away luggage. Sailing at 4pm with a fine breeze and light rain. Temperature 58°. Anchoring at dusk

(27 Jul 1824) Tuesday. A cold morning. Passing the Nore [Thames Estuary] at dawn. Striking the 'Shivering Sands' [Thames estuary] at 7am: 'beat about dreadfully for an hour' before being rescued, with little damage: 'I confess it gave me pleasure to be enabled to proceed, as delays in such undertaking are by no means agreeable'. The pilot leaving the ship off the coast at Deal at 6pm. Temperature 63°. Not writing [letters], the captain intending to stop at Portsmouth, 'to await the orders of the company as to his proceeding to sea, not knowing how far he might be justified in his present circumstances: 14 inches of water in the hold'

(28 Jul 1824) Wednesday. A pleasant day, temperature 73°. Passing Dover. Almost becalmed towards the evening

(29 Jul 1824) Thursday. Passing Dungeness with a favourable breeze. Becalmed at noon off the Isle of Wight. The captain deciding not to anchor at Portsmouth, the ship being in a better condition than anticipated: 'the vessel made only 2 inches of water during the last 24 hours'. Temperature at 8am 57°, at noon 73° and at 8pm 64°

(30 Jul 1824) Friday. Light winds at midnight. Seeing the Portland lights [Portland Bill lighthouse] at dawn. Calm and warm at midday. A fine wind continuing until the evening

(31 Jul 1824) Saturday. A cool, rainy morning. Warm and dry at midday. Passing the Lizard [Lizard Point, Cornwall] at 11am. A strong southerly wind with rain in the afternoon. Temperature at noon 62° and 57° at 4pm

(1 Aug 1824) Sunday. A strong north-easterly wind with heavy rain showers during the night. The sun visible in the morning. In the afternoon, the winds moderate and pleasant. Passing a schooner at 4pm. Seeing about 50 gulls and a few other seabirds during the journey down the channel. Temperature 66° at 5pm

(2 Aug 1824) Monday. Pleasant, favourable northerly wind. Latitude 47°N, longitude 11°W. Water temperature 63°, air 67°

(3 Aug 1824) A cold, northerly wind. Temperature 62° at noon. The sun visible. Latitude 45°32, longitude 12°43. 'A year has elapsed today since I arrived at Staten Island near New York [United States of America]. It was warm and pleasant, and afforded gratification after a tedious passage of 57 days from Liverpool. Is there anything in the world more agreeable to the feelings of a prisoner than liberty?' Seeing two birds resembling gulls: 'they seemed shy'

(4 Aug 1824) Proceeding about seven miles all day. The sun visible. Latitude 41°38, longitude 14°12. Temperature 68° at noon in the shade

(5 Aug 1824) Thursday. A pleasant northerly wind, warm during the day with a breeze. Cool, damp evening. Temperature 74°

(6 Aug 1824) Friday. Pleasant and dry. The sun visible. Latitude 47°. Temperature at noon 68°, water temperature 62°. Moderate winds

(7 Aug 1824) Saturday. A pleasant but cloudy morning. The sun visible at 10am. 'An observation was had, which gave 45°41'. The afternoon cloudy. Increasingly warm in the evening and during the night. Passing a vessel bound eastward

(8 Aug 1824) Sunday. A pleasant fanning wind. Prayers read by the surgeon at the captain's request. Coming in sight of Porto Santo [Madeira, Portugal] at 3pm: 'in the morning shall be regaled with a fine view'

(9 Aug 1824) Monday. Seeing the island of Porto Santo in the morning, about four leagues away. Passing the north-east point of the island at 7am in a pleasant breeze. On the eastern side of the island, the hills rising into high, rugged, barren peaks. Seeing numerous large rocks rising above the water 200-400 yards from the shore. The town 'pleasantly situated on a gentle declivity', with the high peaks to the left and less rugged conical hills to the right. The houses generally low, made of whitewashed stone, each with a large garden or a piece of cultivated land, making the town look more like a village, with vines and fruits growing well. Seeing on the western side of the island large rocks rising out of the ocean. A sudden rise in temperature, from 71° the previous day to 79° at 8am. Seeing the high mountains of Madeira at 11am, their tops in cloud: 'objects which we hailed with pleasure'. Reaching Point Lorenza [Ponta de Sao Lourenco, Madeira], the eastern point of the island. Seeing no cultivation for several miles, with low rocks, copper or blackish colour, resembling volcanic remains, and three leagues away, the barren Deserters Islands [Desertas Islands, Madeira], 'where the Portuguese transport their criminals'

The ship becalmed in the afternoon: '[it] left us to contemplate several rich and romantic valleys near the side of the ocean'. Seeing few seabirds. Anchoring in the Bay of Funchal at 7pm. Being visited by boats from the Customs and the Board of Health: 'the latter made considerable noise, as the captain had no bill of health from London. Fair words and a good deal of courtesy had to be used before matters could be adjusted'. The number of people on board being counted, and a white flag ordered to be hoisted at the masthead at dawn as a sign of quarantine. Douglas remembering his 'imprisonment' on board during his earlier journey [for Douglas's journals of his first expedition to North America, 1823-1824, see RHS/Col/5/1/1/1-2], 'but in the meantime, the health of all friends was drunk with much pleasure; and with these sensations on my mind, which will ever afford satisfaction, I wished my fellow voyagers 'good night' and went to sleep'. Temperature at 12am in the shade 80° and in the water 76°

[10-11 Aug 1824) Tuesday and Wednesday. Writing to Joseph Sabine [secretary of the Horticultural Society of London]. Summary of letter:

Written from Madeira, 10 Aug 1824. Douglas is pleased to inform Sabine of his arrival at Madeira after a pleasant passage from England; he has not yet been on shore, but will go as soon as he receives permission to do so, hoping to see a little of the island; the woods and valleys look beautiful and undoubtedly contain many interesting things; he will endeavour to see Henry Veitch [British consul in Madeira]; if the vessel stops at Rio [Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] 'or some other place equally good', he hopes to collect 'some of the yet hidden treasures'; he is grateful for the kindness and attention shown by Captain Henry Hanwell, and he is very comfortable; he is sorry for not having seen Mr Turner [John Turner, assistant secretary of the Horticultural Society] before he left

Writing to his brother [John Douglas] and going on shore after breakfast. Visiting the vegetable market on the south-west side of the town, a square of 50 yards enclosed on two sides by sheds fitted as stalls, on one side by a house serving as the butcher market, with the only entrance on the north side, and a high iron rail and a gate and four rows of wooden houses or shops with pavilion roofs in the centre of the square. The square neatly paved with round stones, clean and 'has quite a genteel appearance'. The daily market overseen by officers: 'their services I valued much, particularly as it was evident, from the movements of merchants, they were not strangers to deception'. The few vegetables including cabbage ('of inferior size, seeming a late variety; had no opportunity of tasting it'), yam ('used in lieu of potatoes, and preferred by the inhabitants to them; they are used in the same way as potatoes are in England. This is a vegetable admirably calculated for taking to sea, being not so liable to grow in warm latitudes as potatoes, and (according to experienced seamen) will keep much longer'), onion ('large, of one sort, red and flat, but much milder than those in England. From the large quantity exposed for sale I judge it to be here a favourite vegetable'), two varieties of cayenne pepper ('one small, longish fruit of a red colour; one small round yellow; the former is a native of the island) and tomato ('neither remarkable for size nor quality') [here the journal includes a list of 9 more vegetables]

The fruits being 'richer and generally of better quality', including banana or Musa sapientum ('extensively cultivated and perfects its fruit in abundance. It is usually eaten without any preparation, but when fried in a little butter it tastes like a good pancake'), lemon ('larger and better than any we are ever accustomed to see; I think them very fine'), apple ('one variety of apple, like Summer Redstreak, which it probably is. It is large, round and red-streaked, dry and mealy, an insipid fruit'), a pear resembling 'what is called in Scotland Crawford pear' ('this is by far the best fruit') and two varieties of peach ('one a large, long and pointed fruit towards the top, in form much like a lemon, with a yellow, thin and downy skin; the pulp is also bright yellow, rather, if anything, coarse flavour, and adheres to the stone') [here the journal includes a list of approximately 7 more fruits]

Mr Atkinson [William Atkinson, architect in London, who Douglas knew from Scotland; Atkinson also employed Douglas's brother John Douglas] had given Douglas several varieties of grapes, one possibly the White Muscat of Alexandria. Seeing only a few 'weighty bunches', and none with large berries: 'I am informed that the smaller bunches are brought to market and the good fruit reserved for wine. Most people have fruit of their own, so that it is chiefly for vessels calling and for the destitute', a bunch weighing about a pound costing three farthings. Bananas being sold 'according to the number of fingers on a bunch', one with 40-50 selling for 1s 6d, 'which will serve six or seven individuals for one meal'. Pears being sold by number, 30 for two and a half pence. Potatoes being sold by weight, and expensive compared to other things. Two varieties of figs, 50 of the small green fruit or 30 of the long black fruit costing four and a half pence. Soft fruits, figs and grapes carried to the market on the head in baskets, similarly to strawberries in England, and pears, apples and lemons being carried in hog skin or hemp bags on mules: 'the poorer class carry them on their backs'. Seeing two varieties of plum, a small round green fruit ('in form like greengage, colour a brighter green than it, but the flavour far inferior') and a longish oval, black fruit ('insipid taste')

Going to the north of the town to see the vineyards, the vines thriving in the valleys and deep ravines as well as on high ground, on top of old walls and on the roofs of thatched cottages. The soil light brown, resembling burned sand. Not being able to learn what, if any, manure was used. The vines planted 6-14 feet apart and supported on horizontal wood railings four or five feet from the ground. When pruning, very little old wood being left, with two or four-inch spurs left on the principal shoots. Water conveyed to the plantations by way of channels dug in the numerous rivulets: 'a cheap mode of watering, and at the same time adds beauty to the place'. The clusters daubed with mud or lime: 'for what purpose, I do not know', possibly to prevent damage from wasps and other insects. The undersides of the leaves covered with white mealy bugs, similar to those on pineapple plants in England. Old women and young girls being employed to pinch off leaves shading the fruit, stooping under the trellises: 'a delightful occupation, screened from the influence of a scorching sun'. The best fruit reserved for wine, as said at the market, but Douglas being 'somewhat disappointed' with the overall size and quality of the grapes. The clusters thinned early in the season. Passing along the lanes through the vineyards, escorted 'by an elderly matron with her distaff, and a little girl or boy, whose suspicious eyes indicated their profession'

The best, most sheltered locations for cultivation reserved for bananas. Figs thriving in low, moist, partially shaded locations. Seeing other plants cultivated and growing around the island, including Eugenia jambos [Syzygium jambos] ('matures its fruit in abundance with little attention. It is considered one of the finest fruits by the Portuguese. It thrives well in dry, light, sandy soil'), Castanea ('the only wood of the forest that the inhabitants seem to pay attention to. All the valleys and the less fertile spots on the high grounds are planted with this tree. Most of the large trees have a large protuberance, occasioned by tying ligatures round them. I thought they were grafted, but on asking was informed that it is done by way of ornament'), a species of Jasminum ('decorates old walls and hedges that surround the vineyards, forming a delightful fence'), a species of Aspidium ('tall, on moist rocks on the hills') and an annual species of Lobelia ('flowers small, blue') [here the journal includes a list of 28 more plants]

Visiting Henry Veitch's house, but finding Veitch 'had some weeks since gone on a tour to Italy'. Seeing in his garden ('laid out and kept with considerable taste') many fine trees, larger than elsewhere, with fruits including banana, Eugenia jambos [Syzygium jambos], lemon, orange, grape and peach ('in a high state of perfection'), flowers 'of warmer regions' and a fine specimen of Artocarpus incisa or bread fruit [Artocarpus altilis] 20 feet high. Temperature on board the ship at 10am and 800 feet above the sea 80°, and on the summit of the highest peak at 4pm 72°: 'the sun shone in full vigour; the fatigue of descending after a laborious day's work made me enjoy a night's rest'. Temperature on the beach at noon 84°, and the water temperature at thirty fathoms 79°. Sailing at 6pm on Wednesday, with a pleasant south-easterly breeze, pleased with the short stay in Madeira

(12 Aug 1824) Thursday. Losing sight of the mountains of Madeira. Temperature 78°-80°

(13 Aug 1824) Friday. Some seabirds hovering around the ship. More wind than the previous day. Temperature further out at sea 74°-78°

(14 Aug 1824) Saturday. The wind from the same direction. Changing specimen papers for the few specimens obtained at Madeira offering 'a fine amusement during some of the tedious hours'. Temperature 75°-79°

(15 Aug 1824) Sunday. A north-easterly wind, and a cool and pleasant morning, with temperature 70° at 6am. Seeing two gulls and, for the first time, 'immense schools' of flying fish (Exocoetus volans) [Exocoetus volitans]. Temperature at noon 78°, water temperature 75°. 'As usual, we had sermon performed'

(16 Aug 1824) Monday. No sun. Temperature 71°-76°

(17 Aug 1824) Tuesday. A strong north-easterly wind with showers. Temperature 75°-77°

(18 Aug 1824) Wednesday. A pleasant breeze. Temperature 72°-76°

(19 Aug 1824) Thursday. Seeing a ship bound eastward, 'but having a favourable wind, we did not speak [to] her'. Temperature 77°-79°

(20 Aug 1824) Friday. A cool and pleasant day. Seeing porpoises and flying fish. Temperature 76°-78°

(21 Aug 1824) Saturday. A warm day. Temperature 79°-82°. Heavy showers

(22 Aug 1824) Sunday. A gentle north-easterly wind and light showers. Seeing a ship bound southward. The sun visible at midday. Temperature 82° in the shade, water temperature 77°. Heavy rain from 2pm until 10pm and showers during the night

(23 Aug 1824) Monday. Heavy showers during the night with gusts of wind. The morning still and warm. The sun visible at 8am, cloudy the rest of the day. The evening cool and calm. Temperature 84° in the shade, water temperature 78°. Catching two species of seaweed, a variety of Fucus natans [Sargassum natans], with small shellfish attached to it, and a species of Conferva 'in close thready tufts of a bright olive colour. Intermingled with the Conferva, a small species of Fucus with circular branches and minute flattened bladders. On the same, two very minute insects of the same species, having a beautiful shining azure colour'. 60 miles off the islands of Cape Verde [Cabo Verde]

(24 Aug 1824) Tuesday. Light showers and gentle wind, cloudy. Temperature 84° in the shade, water temperature 81°. Several flying fish being washed on board during the night, 'but being much damaged, were not worth preserving'. Temperature 86° in the cabin at 8pm 'with all the air that could be given'

(25 Aug 1824) Wednesday. Temperature 87° in the shade, water temperature 81°. Light westerly winds with showers

(26 Aug 1824) Thursday. Westerly wind with heavy rain. Temperature 86° at noon, water temperature 81°. A cool and pleasant evening

(27 Aug 1824) Friday. A strong westerly wind with showers. Temperature 81°, water temperature 78°

(28 Aug 1824) Saturday. A cool and pleasant morning, fine breeze. Temperature 81°, water temperature 79°. Several large birds, possibly a species of gull, hovering around the ship, with brown backs and white under the wings and on the belly

(29 Aug 1824) Sunday. A light south-easterly wind. Temperature 83° and 80° in the shade. A cool and pleasant evening

(30 Aug 1824) Monday. A north-westerly wind. Warm, temperature 86° in the shade, water temperature 84°

(31 Aug 1824) Tuesday. Cloudy, with a westerly wind. Temperature 81° in the shade, water temperature 70°. Heavy rain in the evening

(1 Sep 1824) Wednesday. A cool and pleasant morning. Temperature 82° in the shade, water temperature 79°. Warm and close in the afternoon, with light showers. Encountering the ship Jane, from Philadelphia [Pennsylvania, United States of America], '47 days from that port', bound for Valparaiso [Chile]

(2 Sep 1824) Thursday. Very light wind and heavy rain, torrential in the evening. Temperature 78°-82°

(3 Sep 1824) Friday. A cool and pleasant morning. Temperature 79°-84°. Heavy rain in the afternoon. Preserving three specimens of 'a curious zoophyte' surrounding the ship at night in large numbers, 'producing a beautiful illumination. On being put in a bucket of sea water, they retained the same power for a few minutes, and then died'

(4 Sep 1824) Saturday. Cool and damp. The sun visible at noon. Temperature 80°, water temperature 77°. Heavy rain in the evening

(5 Sep 1824) Sunday. A light south-westerly wind. Seeing 'great flocks of a small sort of bird', resembling the European lapwing in size and in its manner of flying. Temperature 82°, water temperature 79°. 'Exceedingly pleasant' in the afternoon and evening

(6 Sep 1824) Monday. A southerly wind. Temperature 81°, water temperature 77°. Numerous petrels following the ship. Latitude 4°N

(7 Sep 1824) Tuesday. A cool and pleasant morning. Southerly wind. Temperature 84° and 80°

(8 Sep 1824) Wednesday. A pleasant morning with a light southerly wind. Temperature 81°, water temperature 76°: 'the temperature of the air and water is much greater than a person would suppose'

(9 Sep 1824) Thursday. The coolest, most pleasant time of the day from dawn until 8 or 9am, 'as usual'. A southerly wind. Temperature 79°, water temperature 76°. A pleasant evening. Heavy dews at night. Seeing no birds in recent days

(10 Sep 1824) Friday. A light and cool south-westerly wind. Temperature 86°, water temperature 79°, a larger difference than previously. 'The god of the seas paid us a visit and informed us that he would hold a levee the following day'

(11 Sep 1824) Saturday. Heavy rain during the night, with a light south-easterly wind. 'At 10 o'clock this morning Neptune, accompanied with his guard of honour, fulfilled his promise made last night, when all his unqualified sons had an interview with his majesty. The day was passed with much pleasure' [refers to the line-crossing ceremony, performed on persons first crossing the Equator and often involving the figure of Neptune, the Roman god of sea]

(12 Sep 1824) Sunday. A fine, clear day, dry, southerly and north-westerly winds. Temperature 82° and 80°. A cool and pleasant evening

(13 Sep 1824) Monday. A south-easterly wind. Temperature 79°, water temperature 79°: 'this is the first time that the temperatures came to each other'. Seeing several birds in the evening

(14-15 Sep 1824) Tuesday and Wednesday. A fanning south-easterly wind. Temperature 79°, water temperature 70°

(16 Sep 1824) Thursday. A pleasant day. Temperature 71° at 5am, 81° at noon in the shade, water temperature 80°

(17 Sep 1824) Friday. A cool south-easterly wind. Temperature 81° and 80°. 'A small bird, not unlike a sand snipe [?sandpiper], sought refuge on the vessel; unfortunately I could not make him a prisoner'. A beautiful sunset

(18 Sep 1824) Saturday. A fine easterly wind. Temperature 83°, water temperature 81°. Seeing flocks of birds, some appearing to be land birds, and insects: 'welcome visitors, the sight of which tends to make people uneasy, particularly when they cannot be caught'

(19 Sep 1824) Sunday. Temperature 78° at 8am, 83° at noon, water temperature 81°. Passing a schooner bound northward. A pleasant afternoon with a favourable easterly breeze. Latitude 15°30S

(20 Sep 1824) Monday. An easterly wind, warm and clear. Temperature 82°, water temperature 79°. Pleasant evening. Making paper bags for seed in preparation for reaching Rio Janeiro [Rio de Janeiro]. Latitude 17°52'S

(21 Sep 1824) Tuesday. A strong southerly wind and rain, producing a heavy sea. Catching a butterfly. Several birds following the ship. No sun. Temperature 73°, water temperature 74°

(22 Sep 1824) Wednesday. Southerly wind. Temperature 70° at 8am, 75° at noon, water temperature 74°. Pleasant but cold towards the evening. Killing a bird known by the sailors as the Cape pigeon [Cape petrel]. Latitude 19°6S

(23 Sep 1824) Thursday. A strong south-easterly wind. Temperature 72°, water temperature 70°. The number of birds increasing

(24 Sep 1824) Friday. A cold and wet morning. Temperature 68°, with a strong northerly wind, clearing away at noon, 'which gave an opportunity of finding our latitude'. The weather becoming 'more boisterous' in the afternoon and through the night: 'very little sleep was had by any person'

(25 Sep 1824) Saturday. A cloudy morning with a northerly wind, heavy showers and rough sea, clearing towards midday. Coming in sight of Cape Frio [Cabo Frio, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] at 2pm about eight leagues away: 'great flocks of birds with innumerable swarms of butterflies came to invite us to their coast'. Temperature 75°, water temperature 72°. A cool but pleasant evening. Heavy dew at night, temperature 63° at 4am

(26 Sep 1824) Sunday. A clear and pleasant but cool morning. A fine view of the high mountains of Cape Frio [Cabo Frio]. Temperature 75°, water temperature 72°. Seeing numerous seabirds, some very large. Rough sea in the afternoon. Seeing turtles, one of them weighing probably 250-300lbs, passing the ship: 'our attempts to take them were ineffectual'. 'The vessel on tack all day, wind being foul'

(27 Sep 1824) Monday. A pleasant morning with a light north-westerly wind. Temperature 76°, water temperature 73°. Calm during the night

(28 Sep 1824) Tuesday. A warm, pleasant morning, with light westerly and southerly winds. Entering the river at noon, anchoring at 2pm. Being visited by officers from the Custom House, Board of Health and police. Having to go on shore to visit the master of police, 'which all passengers have to do'. Temperature 84° at noon in the shade and 74° at 8pm

(29 Sep 1824) Wednesday. Going on shore in the evening for two hours with the captain [Henry Hanwell]. Visiting John Dickson [British Royal Navy surgeon in Brazil], a friend of Joseph Sabine and a Horticultural Society correspondent. Douglas being received 'with great kindness', and invited to stay at Dickson's house. Showing Dickson his instructions and explaining the purpose of his journey, and learning he had hosted 'the late Mr Forbes' [John Forbes, Horticultural Society plant collector, who died in Mozambique in 1823. For the papers of Forbes, 1821-1823, see RHS/Col/3] two years previously: 'the affectionate manner in which he spoke of him, of his disposition, of the amiable way he conducted himself during his residence, reflects much honour on his memory'. Dickson helping Douglas by 'sending his servants' and introducing Douglas to his friends. Being unable to make long journeys due to rains and uncertainty regarding the date of sailing

The approach to Rio [Rio de Janeiro] being 'particularly grand', the entrance to the bay or harbour about half a mile wide, with four or five wooded islands, one with a telegraph station. The land mountainous but not rugged, covered with forests to the summit, with luxurious palms. Seeing on the left Sugarloaf Mountain [Rio de Janeiro], a conical hill composed of 'primitive rock, not unlike the Aberdeen granite, with which the London streets are paved', a small fort at its base with a few guns, and a larger fort on the opposite side. The houses regularly built ('but of coarse workmanship'), with 'lofty' rooms and large doors, the windows generally not glazed, but closed by latticed shutters with hinges at the top. 'The only buildings worthy of notice' being churches, including the emperor's [Pedro I] private chapel and another Gothic church in the Palace Square, both 'neat and reflecting great credit on the architect'. Going to a service at the Gothic church at midnight: 'the gorgeous tapestry hung round the saints, the brilliancy of the lamps and candles, with the general neatness of the edifice, impress on the mind of a stranger a pleasing sensation'. The palace, constructed of 'plain rubble-work', surrounding the square on three sides: '[it] would only do for a potentate of America'

Meeting William Harrison [merchant in Brazil] of Liverpool, brother of Arnold Harrison of Aighburgh, a fellow of the Horticultural Society. Harrison being 'fond of plants and birds', having a fine garden about five miles from the town with a collection of African, European and indigenous plants. Harrison having introduced many plants to the Botanic Garden of Liverpool. Seeing on an old wall about 70 species of Epidendrum and Orchideae: 'only the branch or stump on which the plant originally grew was nailed on the wall without any earth, many of them were thriving luxuriantly'. Harrison having about 70 live birds in cages, mostly Brazilian and many beautiful. 'This gentleman showed me many civilities', saying many of his acquaintances were fellows of the Horticultural Society. Harrison giving Douglas a letter of introduction to his friends, Messrs McCulloch of St Barbara, New Albion [Messrs McCulloch and Hartnell, merchants in Santa Barbara, California, United States of America]: 'tokens of his friendship, which at all times I shall think on with pleasure. To have friends in such a remote spot of the globe is of great consequence'

Harrison introducing Douglas to Mrs Maria Graham [author and illustrator], a travel writer in Chile and Brazil and 'tutoress to the young princess [Graham tutored Princess Maria da Gloria of Brazil in 1824]': 'she is a lady of much information, of very amiable manners, and tolerably conversant in botany, of which she is fond, and some other branches of natural history'. Listening 'with delight' to her descriptions of the plants around Valparaiso and Juan Fernandez [Juan Fernandez Islands, Chile]

The vegetables in the market 'few in number and of bad quality', with Convolvulus batatas [Ipomoea batatas], yams (Dioscorea) [yam] ('both substitutes for potato') and two kinds of pepper. Orange, lemon and coconut being the only fruits. Seeing in Harrison's garden a fruit between an orange and a lemon, with shape and colour of lemon, but without the acidity, or the saccharine taste of orange: 'it might be an acquisition to have it'

Never having seen a place 'more inviting, and never laboured under greater disadvantages'. During Douglas's 12-day stay, only six days were fair, rendering many of the collected specimens useless, and having to dry them at sea with difficulty in a small vessel. Collecting two boxes of plants to send to England: 'this afterwards I thought as useless work, for they would arrive in England in the winter. On the other hand, I regretted to allow any opportunity to pass without endeavouring to fulfil the objects of the Society'. Harrison promising to send them, 'on one of the vessels employed by himself'. Taking with him the collection of about 200 species of dried plants. The specimens not quite dry, and Douglas unable to identify them 'for want of a book of general reference'

(8 Oct 1824) Writing to Joseph Sabine, Mr Munro [Donald Munro, gardener at the Horticultural Society of London], Mr Atkinson [William Atkinson] and his brother [John Douglas]. Preparing for sailing

(9 Oct 1824) Saturday. John Dickson giving Douglas £10 'on the Society to purchase several articles for the voyage and the country I was to visit. All these things were done for me by his people with his usual politeness'. Expecting the ship to sail the following day, Dickson inviting some friends for dinner including Mr Louden, the admiral's secretary, and Dr Scott, his physician: 'the good feeling and harmony that were shown by every guest at table among themselves and good wishes towards my welfare at parting was, I must confess, gratifying to me'. Leaving this 'agreeable society' at 8pm

On boarding the boat, heavy rain starting to fall, with thunder and lightning. Taking off his coat and vest to keep his specimens dry. Having difficulty finding the correct vessel in the harbour, the ship having 'hauled out to a more commodious place for sailing since I was last on board'

(10 Oct 1824) Sunday. Cloudy with light rain, and sun at midday. Light and contrary winds. Going on shore at 5pm. Not finding John Dickson at home, but spending two hours with his assistant Mr Gogerty [unidentified], and Mr Graham [unidentified]

(11-13 Oct 1824) Unable to leave the ship, as they were expecting favourable weather for sailing: 'this I regretted exceedingly, the weather being dry and finer than any during my stay'

(14 Oct 1824) Thursday. Sailing at 7am with a light north-westerly wind: 'I left that interesting country certainly with regret, but [...] with the hope of being enabled to make a longer stay at a future period'

(14-22 Oct 1824) The wind continuing variable for a few days, with rain in the evenings. Temperature 66°-82°. Benefitting from a fine breeze from 4am on Tuesday, 'we pursued our voyage along the Brazilian coast with pleasure. Day after day passes away almost imperceptibly. At breakfast enquiries are made how the wind has been during the night, and the like questions. At home among friends this would look ridiculous, but here they appear of great moment'

Seeing immense shoals of a species of seaweed at latitude 37°S, longitude 37°W, some 60 feet in length, with round stems, three inches in diameter at the thickest part, the leaves 'alternate, lanceolate, partly serrate and crisped', the vesicles large and oval, and starfish, shells, white sand and lime clinging to the roots: 'having no fresh water to immerse them in, previous to laying them in paper, I put up in a large jar a portion of the Fucus in spirits, which will convey an idea of its magnitude'

The weather 'much like that usually experienced in the Gulf of Florida'. Seeing plenty of petrels: '[they] could be taken with a hook and line baited with fat of pork'. Catching and preserving three mottled petrels, possibly Procellaria capensis [Daption capense]. Seeing two other shy species, but not managing to catch them, one of them large and jet black, the other brown. Seeing two species of albatross, one large, white and brownish-black, possibly Diomedea exulans, and a smaller black one, possibly Diomedea fuliginosa [Phoebetria fusca]. Catching the latter off the Falkland Islands with a stronger line and hook

(5 Nov 1824) Saturday. Off the Falkland Islands: 'we now began to feel the chilliness of Cape Horn [Chile], and experience the bad weather of its forbidding dreary climate'. Managing to catch albatrosses only 'when the wind blows furiously and the ocean is covered with foam like a washing tub [...] diametrically opposite to every account I have read of them', accounts which suggested albatrosses could be caught only in calm weather. The call of the birds resembling the bleating of goats. When caught, the birds emitting an oily matter from their mouths, possibly caused by their diet of zoophytes. Catching altogether 49 and preserving two, both males. Seeing a third species off the Cape, with a white belly and greyish back, blackish-brown on the upper side of the wings, with a light azure neck, black and yellow beak and black legs and feet. Catching two, but only managing to preserve one, the larger and stronger bird: 'he was very ferocious, and would bite at sticks held out to him. One of the sailors, in assisting me to lay hold of him, was bitten in the thigh through the trousers - the piece was taken out as if cut with a knife'. Catching two petrels, graceful-looking in the water, of a bluish-white colour, with legs and beak partly red

The weather stormy during the ten days of sailing around the Cape, with the ship rocking and waves frequently breaking over it: 'no sleep until completely worn out with fatigue'. The southerly wind very cold, and the temperature 39°-45°: 'there is a piercing rawness in the atmosphere', unlike that of similar latitudes in the northern hemisphere. Daylight lasting 16 hours

(16 Nov 1824) Rounding the Cape [Cape Horn]: 'gladly we bade adieu to such inhospitable regions'. Gradually navigating more peaceful waters

(17 Nov 1824) Catching two Diomedea exulans, the larger weighing 18lbs and measuring 12 feet and four inches, or four feet from the beak to the tail. Both moulting, and 'not worth preserving'. Observing the birds flying, rising from the water partly running and partly flying with their wings raised for several hundred yards. The birds being unable to fly from the deck of a ship. The weather continuing variable until the Straits of Magellan [Chile], with boisterous winds, rough sea, rain and thick fogs. 'From this time to the 14th of December nothing worthy to be noticed occurred'

(14 Dec 1824) Seeing the Island of Mas-a-Fuera [Alejandro Selkirk Island, Juan Fernandez Islands, Chile] resembling a conical black rock. Passing within two miles of the island, but being unable to land due to the surf. The island appearing barren, with some 'herbage' in the valleys and some trees on the hills, and plenty of goats

Sailing towards the Island of Juan Fernandez [Juan Fernandez Islands], about 80 miles north-east, and catching sight of the island 'on the morning of the second day'. Embarking on a boat sent to search for fresh water, but having to return in a few hours. Going to the north side to Cumberland Bay [Robinson Crusoe Island, Juan Fernandez Islands] ('so named by Anson in 1741 [George Anson, British Royal Navy commodore, who navigated around the world in the 1740s]') the following day. The island mountainous, volcanic and covered with trees to the summits of the hills, their tops enveloped in clouds

Going on shore on Friday and Saturday: 'was much gratified with my visit'. Seeing a small vessel anchored on the shore, and a hut on the beach with smoke rising from it. On stepping out of the boat, a man 'sprang out of the thicket to our astonishment', directing them to a sheltered creek. 'He gave me the following account of his adventures': William Clark, a sailor from Whitechapel in London, was discharged in Chile five years ago from a Liverpool ship called Lolland, and was now employed by Spaniards hunting seals and wild bullocks on the island, with his five companions who stayed on the other side of the island, and visited him once a week. On seeing the boat, he had at first fled to the woods, thinking Douglas and his companions to be pirates: 'on hearing us speak English, he sprang from his place of retreat'

Clark had been on the island for five weeks, and intended to stay for another five before returning to Coquimbo in Chile. His clothing consisted of a pair of blue woollen trousers, a flannel and a cotton shirt and a hat ('but he chose to go bareheaded'), and no coat. Douglas giving him 'as much as could be spared from my small stock, for which he expressed many thanks'. Visiting his little hut made of turf and stones, thatched with wild oat straw, his bed a bunch of straw and a blanket in one corner, and the only furniture a log of wood to sit on. His only cooking utensil a 'common cast-iron pot with a wooden bottom, which he had sunk a few inches in the floor - and placed fire round the sides!'. Clark had a yearning to taste roast beef, not having had any for seven years, and tried to 'indulge with a little baked, as he termed it, but in the baking the bottom gave way, as might reasonably be expected; so poor Clark could not effect the new mode of cooking'

Clark's library amounting to 17 volumes, including the Bible, the Book of Common Prayer ('which he had to keep in a secret place when his Spanish friends were there [the Book of Common Prayer had been banned under the Spanish inquisition until 1714]'), 'Tales of my landlord [Sir Walter Scott, 1816-1832]', 'Old Mortality [Sir Walter Scott, 'The Tale of Old Mortality', 1816]', 'some of voyages', Cowper's poems: 'he had the one by heart addressed to Alexander Selkirk [William Cowper, 'Verses supposed to be written by Alexander Selkirk', 1782; Selkirk was a castaway in the South Pacific Ocean in 1704-1709, whose story is said to have inspired Daniel Defoe's Robinson Crusoe], but what is still more worthy to be noticed, a fine bound copy of Crusoe's adventures [Daniel Defoe, 'Robinson Crusoe', 1719], who himself was the latest and most complete edition'. Like 'all English sailors, he had no aversion to rum', and on being given a single dram by Douglas, being unaccustomed to it, it 'made him forget his exile. He was like the heroes of Troy: 'fought his battle over again and slew the slain three times''

Seeing the now-abandoned Spanish colony, the houses and the fort destroyed, and 26 cannons lying on the shore. Seeing the vestiges of a church, the lintel of the door inscribed 'La casa de Dios puerta del cielo y so colocoesta [y se coloco esta] a 24 de Septiembre, 1821 [sic; 1811]' - 'The house of God consecrated 24 September, 1811'. Seeing a circular brick oven nearby, seven feet in diameter, dated 1741 and possibly built by Anson [George Anson] during his residence, now occupied by a small species of blue pigeon as their cote: 'in it I found some eggs, but no young ones'. Seeing in the old gardens three or four species of peach ('very luxuriant'), apple, quince, two kinds of pear ('a quantity of the last three we took for puddings'), fig, vines and 'a sort of' strawberry ('large fruit of a pale whitish-red, not unpleasant; leaves, stem and calyx very downy'), with radish the only culinary vegetable. Sowing fruit and vegetable seeds received from William Atkinson and giving some for Clark to sow. Spending Saturday afternoon fishing, catching 'a sort of rock codfish' and a smaller fish: 'both good eating, and after such a length of time on salted food were considered a luxury'

Clark giving them a goat, 'but not one of Robin's [Robinson Crusoe], for it was young'. Leaving Clark standing on a large stone on the shore on Saturday evening, intending to return the following morning. On reaching the ship, strong south-easterly winds setting in, 'which obliged me to leave such an interesting speck of the globe, and my new acquaintance Clark'. The winds continuing to drive the ship for three days towards the islands of Gallipagos [Galapagos Islands, Ecuador]. Spending Christmas at latitude 27°S, longitude 84°W, dining on the goat given by Clark and drinking to the health of their friends in England

Collecting plants during the visit to Juan Fernandez [Juan Fernandez Islands] (specimens 1-78), including a species of 'Aspidium?' ('an elegant, strong plant, abundant in moist places, gives great annoyance in passing through it; 4 to 6 feet high'), '?tree fern' ('without exception the finest of the kind that came under my notice on the whole island. Stem strong, thick and rough, footstalks long and black. 12 to 15 feet high. Abundant in groups on hilly places. Appearing at a distance like young pines'), a species of Silene ('[annual], leaves lanceolate, bractea linear, stem hispid. Not in flower. A low species, on the gravelly beach'), a species of Gnaphalium ('[perennial], leaves amplexicaul, lanceolate, woolly. Flowers capitate, yellow, stem glutinous. Abundant on dry elevated spots') and a species of Hordeum ('[annual], a delightful small species, not more than 8 inches or a foot high. Abundant on the highest peaks of the mountains') [here the journal includes a list of 73 more plants]

(1 Jan 1825) Saturday. Good weather continuing: 'nothing occurred deserving to be mentioned'. The temperature increasing on approaching the Line [the Equator], but the heat feeling less oppressive than in the Atlantic

(9 Jan 1825) Sunday. Passing Chatham Island [San Cristobal, Galapagos Islands] at a distance of 15 miles

(10 Jan 1825) Monday. Going on shore at James Island [Santiago Island, Galapagos Islands], a volcanic, mountainous and rugged island with vestiges of volcano crates and 'vitrified lava', the highest hills rising about 2,000 feet above the sea level. Not seeing much vegetation compared to other tropical places, although the trees were large. Staying for three days, with two hours on shore each time: 'few of its plants were known to me'. Seeing many birds, some pretty and 'so little acquainted with man's devices that they were readily killed with a stick', using a gun only to shoot them down from rocks or trees: 'many of the smaller sorts perched on my hat and [when I] carried my gun on my shoulder, would sit on the muzzle. During my stay I killed 45, of 19 genera, all of which I skinned carefully - and had the mortification to lose them all, except a species of Sula, by the almost constant rain of 12 days after leaving the island', there being no room for them below the deck on the ship. The birds including two species of pelican, four species of Sula, four species of hawk and one 'very curious' pigeon

Being almost as unfortunate with plants, collecting 175 specimens, but being able to save only 40: 'never in my life was I so mortified, touching at a place where everything, indeed the most trifling particle, becomes of interest in England, and [to] have such a miserable collection to show I have been there'. Drying the remaining plants 'with no small labour' to send them to England: 'what they may be, I cannot say', as the weather during the rest of the journey was 'such as did not admit of looking to plants', and having had no time since his arrival [at Columbia River]

Seeing a large species of tortoise on the island, one weighing 400lbs, and a bright orange-yellow lizard three feet long [?Galapagos land iguana], 'both good eating'. Losing a fine skin of the lizard: '[I] regret it exceedingly, [it] being not described'. Seeing abundant turtles 'of good quality' on the shores. Finding no fresh water, apart from a small spring in one of the craters. The rain ceasing for about an hour on the last day, and the sun raising an 'almost suffocating' steam from the ground. Temperature 96°

Leaving on Wednesday at dusk. Seeing lights on Albemarle Island [Isabela Island, Galapagos Islands] to the east: 'people were on it'. Setting off 'some blue lights, to which they answered'. Almost constant rain for the first 12 days, and generally calm

(16 Jan 1825) Sunday. A thunderstorm with lightning from 4am to 2pm: 'I never witnessed anything equal to it. 5 tons of water was had from the sails and deck; this was a great relief, for our allowance was more [increased], and [we] had our clothes washed'. The ship being carried nearly 10° westward in the correct direction by a current: 'a fortunate circumstance'. The winds continuing variable for the remaining time in the tropics

Catching two mostly black albatrosses in latitude 34°N off Cape Horn, similar to Diomedea fuliginosa [Phoebetria fusca], but managing to preserve only one. Catching another bird, similar to Diomedea exulans, but much smaller: 'I was prevented from skinning this one by the violent storm, during which the second mate fell on the deck and fractured his right thigh'

(12 Feb 1825) Coming in sight of the river [Columbia River] in longitude 134°W, but being prevented from approaching the coast by the 'boisterous and frightful' weather. Being tossed about and driven by the winds for six weeks, attempting many times to reach their destination

(2 Apr 1825) Saturday. Coming in sight of Cape Disappointment [Washington, United States of America] 30 miles away: 'sail was shortened to wait a new day for entering'

(3 Apr 1825) Sunday. A calm and cold morning. An easterly wind carrying the ship within four miles of the river [Columbia River], but having to sail back to the sea due to another violent storm. Approaching the land again the following Tuesday

(7 Apr 1825) [Part of the entry for 7 Apr is duplicated on the verso leaves] Thursday. Approaching the coast, 40 miles away, with a fine light north-easterly breeze: 'such an opportunity was not to be lost, all sail was set, joy and expectation was on every countenance, all were glad to make themselves useful'. Keeping the soundings [measuring the depth of the water] with the doctor [John Scouler, naturalist and surgeon on the William and Ann]. Safely crossing the bar ('which is considered dangerous and on which many vessels have been seriously injured and some wrecked')

Anchoring in Baker's Bay [Baker Bay, Washington] on the north side of the river. Enjoying the sight of land, 'free from the excessive motion and noise of the ship', after the voyage of nearly nine months. The ground on the south side of the river being low, densely covered with woods, mainly Pinus canadensis [?Tsuga canadensis], Pinus balsamea [Abies balsamea] and possibly Pinus taxifolia [?Abies balsamea or Pseudotsuga menziesii, Douglas fir]. Cape Disappointment to the north 'a remarkable promontory', rising about 700 feet above the sea and covered with woods

(9 Apr 1825) Saturday. Going on shore. The ship unable to proceed up the river due to rain and fog. Being pleased on finding Gaultheria shallon immediately after stepping on shore, Mr Menzies [Archibald Menzies, surgeon, botanist and naturalist] having correctly observed them growing under dense pine forests 'in great luxuriance […] [they] would make a valuable addition to the gardens'. Seeing the plant growing well on the edges of the forest near the ocean: 'Pursh's [Frederick Traugott Pursh, German-American botanist] figure of it is very correct'

(11 Apr 1825) Monday. Going up the river to the 'Company's establishment [Hudson Bay Company's fur trading post on the Columbia River, Washington]', seven or eight miles away. Hearing the fort had been mostly abandoned, and a new one built 70 miles up on the opposite side of the river, where all the staff was to move in a few days

(12 Apr 1825) [the journal reads '12th March 1825'] Tuesday. Going on shore. Being 'very civilly received' by Mr McKenzie [Alexander McKenzie, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader], 'the other person in authority'. Being informed that 'the chief factor, a Mr McLachlan [John McLoughlin, also known as Jean-Baptiste McLoughlin, Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, chief factor at Fort Vancouver]' was expected to come down from the new establishment. McKenzie 'made me as comfortable as his circumstances would admit'. Being unable to do much collecting, with all of his papers still in the hold on the ship

Collecting plants (specimens 1-20), including Gaultheria shallon ('thick woods and banks'), 'Ribes sanguineum?' ('flowers pink or rose colour, inside of the petals white, anther white. A most beautiful shrub. In open, dry places, 7 to 10 feet high'), a species of Alnus ('a tree 50 to 70 feet high, may prove [to be] Alnus glutinosa. Its size occasioned by the richness of the soil. Moist places on the Columbia [Columbia River]. April'], a species of Equisetum ('the male stems eaten by the natives in a raw state and sometimes boiled. Abundant in moist places') and Phalangium quamash [Camassia quamash] ('its roots form a great part of the natives' food. They are prepared as follows: a hole is scraped in the ground in which are placed a number of flat stones on which the fire is placed and kept burning until sufficiently warm, then taken away. The cakes, which are formed by cutting or bruising the roots and then compressed into small bricks, are placed on the stones and covered with leaves, moss or dry grass, with a layer of earth on the outside, and left until baked or roasted, which takes generally a night. They are, when newly taken off the stones, moist, [and] are hung up to dry, then placed on shelves or boxes for winter use. When warm they taste much like a baked pear. Lewis [Meriwether Lewis, explorer, who charted the Pacific Northwest in 1804-1806 with William Clark] observes that when eaten in large quantity, they occasion bowel complaints. This I am not aware of, but assuredly they produce flatulence: when in the Indian hut, I was almost blown out by strength of wind. Flowers large, blue, abundant in plains and margins of woods') [here the journal includes a list of 15 more plants]

[Here the journal contains a loose slip of paper: 'Vaccinium species, 4 fruit globular, about the size of a common pea, scarlet, transparent, very juicy with an agreeable acid. July 25th']







The chief factor [John McLoughlin] arriving by river on Saturday. Douglas showing him his instructions and explaining his pursuits. Being advised to proceed to the new establishment as soon as possible, and leaving with him on Tuesday morning. Travelling only 40 miles against strong currents before having to pull the canoe up to the beach and sleep in it. Dining on 'a piece of good sturgeon', tea and a slice of bread. 'We had 6 Indians for paddling the canoe. They sat round the fire the whole night roasting sturgeon, which they do by splitting a branch and placing the meat in it, twisting a bit of rush at the top to prevent it falling out. They ate a fish weighing about 26 or 28lbs from 10 o'clock [at] night till day light the following morning. They paddled 40 miles without any sort of food except the young shoots of Rubus spectabilis and water'

Arriving at their destination on Wednesday at 10pm. The scenery fine on the riverbanks, with mountains about 50 miles from the coast, terminating in a high ridge. The remaining 40 miles being beautiful, undulating countryside, small woods and plains divided by rivulets, with rich, black, alluvial soil on the north side and grass and other vegetation. Douglas staying near the place where 'the officer from the Vancouver Squadron discontinued his survey of the Columbia [William Robert Broughton of the Vancouver expedition, 1791-1795, explored the river in October 1792]'. The establishment being called Fort Vancouver [Hudson Bay Company's fur trading post on the Columbia River, Vancouver, Washington], near 'Menzies' Island' [Hayden Island, Oregon, United States of America], named after A. Menzies [Archibald Menzies]

Collecting plants [the list includes additions made three months later, in July, between the lines and on loose slips of paper between the pages] (specimens 21-130), including a species of Iris ('flower blue, 6 inches to a foot high. In fertile plains, near the margin of rivulets'), 'Acer macrophylla?' [Acer macrophyllum] ('one of the largest trees on the Columbia River, exceeding 100 feet high, 15 to 20 circumference. Plentiful about the banks of the river'), a species of Taxus ('a tall tree. The natives prefer this wood to any other for making their bows. Branches pendulous, a handsome tree'), a species of Pyrus ('a tree 10 to 35 feet high, sometimes 18 inches [in] circumference. Few spines on it. Flower very fragrant. Plentiful on the south side of the Columbia near the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel, Oregon]') and a species of Carex ('[perennial], one of the most luxuriant of the genus. In low, marshy places. The natives use it for making their pouches, sometimes mats are made of it, thatching their huts etc') [here the journal includes a list of 115 more plants]

[Here the journal contains three slips of paper, loose between the pages or pasted in the gutter, including '86 [a species of Rubus] fruit long, black and well tasted']

(1 May 1825) Sunday. Leaving the fort early in the morning to visit a large plain seven miles away. Passing several 'Indian steaming huts or vapour baths: a small hole is dug about 1 foot deep in which hot stones are placed and water thrown on them so as to produce steam. The bather then goes in naked and remains until well steamed. He immediately plunges into some pool or river, which is situated not to be far distant. It is formed of sticks, mud and turf thus [here the journal includes a small drawing of the hut or sauna], with a small hole for allowing [entry]. They are most frequently used when they come of [from] their hunting parties, after the fatigues of war, and also before they go on any expedition which requires bodily exertion. My curiosity was not so strong as to regale myself with a bath'

Seeing plenty of Fraxinus ('which a few days since I said was scarce') and a fine Quercus tree, no taller than 70 feet, with some of them measuring six feet in diameter and six feet from the ground, with a distinctive crossed and rugged bark, resembling an ash at a distance. Collecting plants (specimens 131-138), including a species of Dodecathon [Dodecatheon] ('var. alba, this fine variety, among the beautiful blossoms of the species makes a fine contrast'), a species of Rosa ('open places, near the sides of rivulets. Abundant. Flowers blush colour, faint odour'), Gaultheria shallon ('I find near the ocean it thrives more luxuriant than elsewhere, the further removed from it, it gradually becomes less vigorous'), a species of Gnaphalium ('abundant on dry sterile plains') and Pentandria ('monogynia, calyx 5-partite, stigma globose. A single specimen of this plant I found near the ocean on the south side of the river in an unexpanded state [with leaves not yet fully open]. The tree from which I took these [was] 17 to 20 feet high') [here the journal includes a list of 4 more plants]

(2 May 1825) Visiting Menzies Island [Hayden Island] in the Columbia River, opposite the Hudson Bay Company's establishment at Point Vancouver [Vancouver, Washington], 75 miles from Cape Disappointment. The island low and sandy on the shores, easily flooded, with rich vegetable soil in the middle

Collecting plants (specimens 141-168), including a species of Leontodon ('[perennial], on the sand shores'), a species of Syngenia [Syngenesia] ('[annual], in open, dry places. A very beautiful low plant, 1 foot to 18 inches high'), a species of Stellaria ('[perennial], in partially shaded places. Not uncommon'), Myosotis hookerii [Chionocharis hookeri] ('[annual], scarce, only 3 specimens of it were found, 2 of which are in my possession') and Mimulus luteus ('on the edge of pools [and] rills, very abundant') [here the journal includes a list of 22 more plants]

(6-7 May 1825) Friday. Rain during the night and in the morning. Drying paper, turning specimens, fixing 'my new tent'. Arranging plants collected two miles east, on the north side of the river (specimens 169-181), including a species of Rhus ('a small shrub, in low woods and plains, in dry soil. Flower faint yellow'), a species of Geum ('[annual], flower small, yellow colour. 6 inches to 10 high. Banks of river in sandy soil'), a species of Geranium ('[perennial], dry meadows. Flower purple'), a species of Lupinus ('var. flor. alba. This I doubt not will prove Lupinus villosus of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh]. Only two plants of this beautiful variety') and a species of Gallium ('boreale? [Galium boreale] On dry gravel and rocky places near rivers. Abundant') [here the journal includes a list of 12 more plants]

(10-14 May 1825) Going down the river to the ocean and returning the following Monday, 16 May. Collecting plants (specimens 182-224), including a species of Sedum ('[perennial], rocks. Very plentiful'), a species of Arbutus ('leaves ovate, oblong, entire, glabrous on the upper side, glaucous on the under. Raceme axillary, peduncle pubescent, an obtuse bractea at the foot of each. Calyx minute, 5-cleft, white. Corolla nearly entire, partially revolute, white & very fragrant. Pistil the length of corolla, filaments at the base very pubescent. Wood hard and brittle, of a white colour, bark smooth, yellow, not unlike the 2 [second] bark of Betula. 30 to 40 feet high, 14 to 20 inches in diameter. Frequently very dry elevated places on the banks of river. This without exception is the most beautiful tree which I have seen. It cannot be Arbutus laurifolia [?Arbutus unedo, Gaultheria fragrantissima or Arbutus xalapensis], having interleaves. Which is it? Above all things do not fail to put up a treble supply of its seeds, being evergreen it [is] the more desirable'), a species of Mimulus ('[annual or perennial]?, stem creeping. Jointed leaves subrotundate, partially dentate, 3-nerved. Flower leaves obovate-lanceolate, flower small, very fine bright yellow, in the lower lip 2 streaks of a purplish crimson colour with 2 minute dots of the same in the upper. This interesting species I call Mimulus scoullerii [Mimulus guttatus subsp. scouleri], after John Scouler, who has been the companion of my long voyage from England, and walks on the solitary Columbia [Columbia River]'), a species of Galium ('[perennial], a small, inconspicuous plant. Plentiful in soils among stones') and a species of Viola ('in open, dry places, plentiful') [here the journal includes a list of approximately 40 more plants]

Collecting these plants on the way up and down the river from Point Vancouver to the ocean. Returning on Wednesday evening after a tiring journey with only one dry day

(17-18 May 1825) Arranging plants. Frequent showers of rain interrupting the excursions

(20-25 May 1825) Collecting plants near Fort Vancouver (specimens 225-263), including Delphinium virescens [Delphinium carolinianum] of Nuttal [Thomas Nuttall, British botanist , who studied North American plants in 1808-1841] ('a very fine early-flowering plant. Frequents open dry plains, abundant'), a plant which 'may probably turn out Trifolium ('a very fine plant, 10 to 20 inches high. Flowers pink colour, [annual]'), a plant in the class Syngenesia ('[perennial], 1 to 2 feet high, flowers yellow. On dry gravelly plains, abundant'), Linnaea borealis ('this beautiful fragrant plant is very plentiful in most upland or hilly forests, in great profusion in the close pine or cedar woods. I have not yet seen it nearer the ocean than 40 miles') and a species of Epilobium ('[annual or biennial], flowers small, white. Abundant in moist ground') [here the journal includes a list of 33 more plants]

(31 May 1825) Wednesday. Collecting plants on the northern banks of the river, a few miles below the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Bonneville Dam] (specimens 264-295), including a species of Antirrhinum ('[annual], glabrous, leaves alternate, linear, obtuse. Flowers bluish-purple, flower stems erect, others creeping. Abundant on dry ground in light soil'), a species of Orchis ('tall, beautiful plant. Flowers white, very fragrant. Root palmate, plentiful in rich meadows. This species does not seem to be noticed by Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh]'), Arbutus uva-ursi [Arctostaphylos uva-ursi] ('abundant on all rocky, dry situations. The leaves when dried over a fire is [are] smoked by the natives'), a species of Oenothera ('[annual]?, stem erect, rarely branching, except when in very rich soil, slender, leaves alternate, linear, smooth, entire. Capsules long, sessile. Flowers large, rose colour, with a beautiful dark pink spots in the centre of each petal, round, nearly entire, stigma yellow. An exceedingly interesting species, and new. Abundant on elevated gravelly plains and rising grounds') and a species of Euphorbia ('[annual], in dry gravelly meadows') [here the journal includes a list of approximately 25 more plants]

[Here the journal includes a loose slip of paper: '[Specimen] 287, Oenothera, distinct from the former. Capsule not only shorter, but 8-grooved, while it is only 4 and then [but] slightly. July 20th']

(20 Jun 1825) Travelling up the river in [Hudson's Bay Company] canoes on their way to the various trading posts inland, a few miles above the Great Falls [Celilo Falls, Columbia River, Washington; later submerged by Dalles Dam], about 200 miles from the ocean. 'I was at a loss to decide whether my time would be better employed here or between there and the ocean', the seaside providing a rich harvest, and the interior probably less fertile, but possibly containing interesting items from the plains and the mountains. John McLoughlin, 'from whom I have experienced every attention as to the furthering of my pursuit and comfort', promising assistance in making Douglas's journey fruitful and comfortable

Douglas considering joining the ship for Nootka [Nootka Sound, Vancouver Island, British Columbia], but McLoughlin informing him that, due to 'the turbulent disposition of the natives', opportunities for collecting would be limited, 'persons being under the necessity of meeting them armed and in a large party'. Douglas deciding to stay on the Columbia [Columbia River], making trips from there when possible

The ascent up the river being slow due to the strong currents, giving Douglas the opportunity to botanise on the banks and nearby hills. Having to shelter frequently in the creeks from the swelling water: 'although our canoes were considered good, yet we could not see each other except at a short distance, so great was the swell'. The Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids] ('as they are termed by Lewis and Clarke [Meriwether Lewis's and William Clark's expedition in 1804-1806 charted the Pacific Northwest]'), having been formed by the river passing through a narrow, rocky channel, with several islands above it, one of them a burial ground of the people living on the southern banks of the river. The full length of the rapids being about two miles, but the water passing 'with great agitation' only for about 600 yards. The level of water low at the present season. The banks high, steep and rugged, composed of limestone, sandstone and some blue granite, with many large, petrified trees lying between the rocks. The trees appearing to be of two kinds, soft and hard wood, Pinus balsamea [Abies balsamea] and a species of Acer, possibly Acer macrophyllum, measuring five feet in diameter

The rapids a popular fishing ground: 'this being the fishing season, the natives are numerous on the banks of the river', coming several hundred miles for fishing, and catching 'an almost incredible number of salmon'. The salmon being caught by making various small channels among the rocks before the water rose in the summer and placing a platform over the channels to stand on. Fastening a net or a scoop net around a hoop at the end of a long pole, the person fishing placing the net at the top of the channel to be carried by the current: 'the poor salmon, coming up his smooth and agreeable road as he conceives it to be, thrusts himself in the net and is immediately thrown on the stage', the pole being tied to the platform to prevent it being snatched out of the fisher's hands. Not having been able to ascertain which plant was used for making the nets, the hoop being made of 'Bois du diable of the Canadian voyagers [voyageurs, or French Canadian fur transporters]', so called because of its toughness, probably Acer circinatum, similar to Acer rubrum, and the pole of balsam pine [balsam fir], being light when dried. The fish being good quality, similar in size to those in the rivers of Europe, 15 to 25lbs, some more

Measuring two fish, the larger three feet five inches and 10 inches broad, weighing about 35lbs: 'both were purchased for 2 inches of tobacco (1/2 oz), value 2 pence, 1 penny each', the same quantity in England costing £3 or £4, 'and not crimped [another version of Douglas's journal reads 'crisped'; see RHS/Col/5/2/1/2] salmon as I have it, cooked under the shadow of a lordly pine or rocky dell far removed from the abodes of civilised life. It is very wonderful the comfort, at least the pleasant idea of being comfortable in such a place, surrounded by multitudes of individuals, who perhaps had never seen a white person before, viewing us narrowly with surprise. The luxury of a night's sleep on a bed of pine branches can only be appreciated by those who have experienced a route over a barren plain, scorched by the sun, or fatigued by groping their way through a forest, crossing gullets [gully], dead wood, stones etc. Indeed, so much worn out was I 3 times that I crawled under a small abandoned hut twice'. Killing two partridges and boiling them in a small kettle for supper: 'my two Indians had eaten their dry salmon and were asleep'. Falling asleep before the birds were cooked, waking up at dawn to find the supper burned to ashes and holes in the bottom of the kettle. 'Before leaving my resting place I had to make a little tea, which is the monarch of all food after fatiguing journeys. This I did by boiling the water in my tinder box! I have oftentimes heard that 'necessity is the mother of industry', which I now know and partly believe'

'The Indians are inquisitive in the extreme, anxious to imitate the whites (I mean the Cheenooks [Chinook], Cladsaps [Clatsop], Clikitats [Klickitat] and the Killimucks [Tillamook, also known as Nehalem]), and are on the whole not unfriendly. Some of them are by no means deficient of ability. Some will converse in English tolerably well, make articles after the European fashion etc. They are much prejudiced in favour of their own way of living, although at the same time will not fail to eat a most inordinate quantity if offered to them. My canoe men and guides were much surprised to see me make an effervescent draught and drink it, boiling as they thought it. They think there is [are] good and bad spirits, and that I belong to the latter class, and call me 'Olla-piska ['uləptski' in Chinook jargon. Chinookan is a language group comprising several now extinct languages, and Chinook jargon, with which Douglas was familiar, was used as a pidgin trade language in the Pacific Northwest in the 19th century]', which in the Chenook tongue signifies fire, in consequence of drinking boiling water, lighting my tobacco pipe with my lens and the sun, but above all to place a pair of spectacles on the nose is beyond all the comprehension, they immediately place the hand tight on the mouth, a gesture of dread or astonishment'

The salmon being also caught on sandy shores with no rapids or projecting rocks, with a draught net, as in Britain. From the rapids to the Great Falls [Celilo Falls], 58 or 60 miles away, the riverbanks steep and rugged, the woods becoming smaller. No Acer found beyond the rapids, but seeing Thuja, Pinus balsamea [Abies balsamea] and one species of Populus, all gradually diminishing into low scrub-wood. 16 miles below the Falls, 'we are no longer fanned by the huge pine stretching its branches over a mountain rivulet or deep cavern, or regaled by the quivering of the aspen in the breeze'. Seeing only extensive plains and barren hills, with all the vegetation scorched by the intense heat, the temperature in the shade 97°

Crossing a plain stretching for 19 miles: 'scarcely can I tell the state of my feet in the evening from the heat of the sand, the upper part of them were all in blisters'. Reaching the Dalles [Columbia River], six miles below the falls, the water rushing through narrow channels, surrounded by 'singular', rugged rocks, worn by water, probably having previously formed the boundaries of the river. The falls stretching across the river in an oblique direction: 'at present it is imperfectly seen, but I am told it has a good effect when the river is low'. The ground on both sides high, the only vegetation being Berberis aquifolia [Berberis aquifolium], Tigarea tridentata [Purshia tridentata] and a species of Ribes with small red berries

Collecting plants during the journey ('some very interesting and will, I am sure, amuse the lovers of plants at home') (specimens 296-369), including a species of Lupinus ('[perennial], a tall strong plant, all parts alike hairy. Flowers faint rose colour, with a tint of yellow, very beautiful. On the plains near the Falls'), a species of Achillea ('[perennial], among rocks on the banks of all the rivers'), a species of Clematis ('[perennial], flowers white. Edges of rivers and woods'), Clarckia pulchella [Clarkia pulchella] ('Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh], description and figure very good, flower rose colour. Abundant on the dry sandy plains near the Great Falls [Celilo Falls], on the banks of 2 rivers 20 miles above the Rapids. An exceedingly beautiful plant') and a species of Alopecurus ('[perennial]') [here the journal includes a list of 68 more plants]. These plants collected during the journey up the river: 'my time I consider well spent'

(6 Jul 1825) Collecting plants (specimens 370-404), including a species of Stachys ('[perennial], flowers purple. Edges of rivers, pools and moist soil, in shady places plentiful'), a species of Menentha [Mentha] ('[perennial], in all low grounds, flowers white, tinged with red'), a species of Campanula ('[perennial], flowers white. Teeth of the corolla reflexed after a few days' expansion. In thick shady woods among moss, plentiful, plant reclining'), a species of Solidago ('[perennial], flowers yellow. In all elevated grounds, plentiful'), a species of Rumex ('[perennial], plentiful in moist soils') and a species of Scirpus ('[perennial], 4 to 10 feet in marshy ground. The natives make one of their sorts of mats of it by weaving them together with tissue from the roots of the Cyperus. The tender part of the stem next the root, which is white, is eaten by them and considered a luxury') [here the journal includes a list of 29 more plants]

(19-22 Jul 1825) Collecting plants on Menzies Island [Hayden Island] (specimens 405-418), including a species of Artemisia ('Artemisia longifolia?'), another species of Artemisia ('stems straight, partly suffruticose. Leaves entire, sessile, lanceolate, linear. Smells strong like tansy'), Epilobium angustifolium ('edges of woods and rivers among decayed vegetable soil'), a species of Gramineae ('[perennial], a very fine, silky grass, abundant in all meadows') and a plant in the order Syngenesia ('[perennial], in all dry barren plains') [here the journal includes a list of 9 more plants]

Leaving his residence early in the morning in a small canoe, with 'one Canadian and two Indians', heading for the ocean shores to search for a species of Cyperus mentioned by Frederick Traugott Pursh, the plant said to resemble potato when boiled. Not finding the plant, despite a 'laborious' journey of 12 days along the north shore of Cape Disappointment. Seeing several dead roots washed onto the shore, agreeing with the description of Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. His guide, 'tolerably conversant with many of the tongues spoken by the inhabitants', learning that the plant was abundant on the shore from Point Adams [Oregon], at the southern entrance to the river, but being unable to travel there due to wars between the local peoples

Losing many specimens due to continuous rain, and being unable to preserve any birds, despite covering them with oilcloths. Seeing many pelicans, one albatross, some petrels, one large, brown gull and a smaller, white gull. 'Now I have a little idea of travelling without the luxuries of life', only two of the nights on the shore having been dry, and having to dry his blanket for an hour before being able to lie down to sleep. Catching plenty of small trout and young salmon in the creeks: 'with a basin of tea, a small piece of biscuit and now and then a duck, I managed to live very well'

Visiting Cockqua [Cockqua, Lower Chehalis chief], 'the principal chief of the Chenooks and Chachalii [Chehalis, a Salish tribe] tribes, who is exceedingly fond of all the chiefs that come from King George [George IV of the United Kingdom], words which they learn from Broughton [William Robert Broughton, Royal Navy officer] & Vancouver [George Vancouver, British Royal Navy officer] and other commanders of English ships. His acquaintance I previously had. He imitates all European manners: immediately after saluting me with 'clachouie', their word for 'friend', or 'How are you?', and a shake of his hand, water was brought for me to wash'. Douglas being shown a large sturgeon in a canoe, to choose a part to be cooked for him: 'in justice to my Indian friend, I cannot but say he afforded me the most comfortable meal I had had for a considerable time before, from the spine and head of the fish'

Sleeping in a 'tent [which] had been left here'. Cockqua, being at war with the Cladsaps [Clatsop] from the opposite bank of the river, and, expecting an attack during the night ('which was not made'), pressing Douglas to sleep in his lodge instead: 'this offer I would have most gladly accepted, but as fear should never be shown, I slept in my tent 50 yards from the village. In the morning he said I was a great chief, for I was not afraid of the Cladsaps'. One of Cockqua's men ('with not a little self-consequence') showing Douglas his skills with the bow and arrow and with a gun, passing arrows through a small hoop of grass, six inches in diameter, thrown into the air, and shooting with his rifle at a distance of 110 yards: 'he said no chief from King George could shoot like him, neither could they dance the war dance'. Douglas shooting a large species of eagle (Falco leucocephala [Haliaeetus leucocephalus]), perched on a tree stump, by walking within 45 yards of the bird, throwing a stone and shooting the flying bird: 'this had the desired effect. Many of them placed their right hands on their mouths, the token for astonishment or dread'. Douglas being asked to shoot at the man's hat, throwing it in the air: 'I carried the whole of the crown away, leaving only the brim. Great value was then laid on my gun and high offers made. My fame was sounded through the camp'

At the lodge, seeing baskets, hats 'made after their own fashion', cups and pouches 'of very fine workmanship', some made with leaves of Typha and Helonias tenax [Xerophyllum tenax], others of the tissues of Thuja and some with a small linear-leaved Fucus and leaves of Carex. Being given a collection of items, including Cockqua's own hat, with promises that the maker, 'a little girl 12 years of age', would make Douglas 'some hats like the chiefs' hats from England'. Giving small presents of tobacco, knives, nails and gun flints on 5 Aug and returning up the river to Fort Vancouver, a journey of two and a half days

Collecting plants during the journey (specimens 419-446), including a species of Santolina ('[perennial], flowers yellow. On the seashore, abundant'), 'Samolus valerandi?' ('in shady places near springs'), a species of Trifolium ('[perennial], flower large, light red. Plentiful near the sea'), a species of Triticum ('very handsome, abundant on the shore. I regret that all the seeds of this beautiful [annual] species was gone') and Pteris aquilina [Pteridium aquilinium] ('abundant and grows exceedingly strong in rich open woods. The roots are dried and eaten by the natives when boiled or roasted') [here the journal includes a list of 22 more plants]

(6-18 Aug 1825) Drying plants. Making occasional short trips in the neighbourhood. Collecting seeds of plants already collected. 'Nothing of interest occurred during this time'. Being frequently hampered by rainy weather

(19 Aug 1825) Leaving in a small canoe 'with one Canadian and 2 Indians, in company with a party of men going on a hunting excursion'. Heading 56 miles southwards towards the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel], a branch of the Columbia River, 'nearly as large as the Thames'. Seeing fine waterfalls 36 miles from the Columbia, 43 feet high, spanning the whole river, the water dividing into three channels during the dry season, rushing 'in an unbroken sheet' in the summer, rising to 47 feet in July, with little or no current from the Columbia to the falls. The riverbanks covered with Pinus taxifolia [?Abies balsamea or Pseudotsuga menziesii, Douglas fir], Pinus balsamea [Abies balsamea], Quercus and Populus, growing in rich soil. The strong current above the falls making it difficult to proceed and having to spend three hours hauling the canoe up with ropes

The location previously considered to be one of the best hunting places west of the Rocky Mountains [Canada and United States of America]. Seeing no beavers, now scarce: 'I was much gratified in viewing their deserted lodges & dams of that wise economist'. Seeing plenty of deer, possibly a species mentioned by Mr Sabine in his description of the animals observed by Franklin's party [Joseph Sabine wrote a 'Zoological appendix' to John Franklin's 'Narrative of a journey to the shores of the Polar Sea, in the years 1819, 20, 21 and 22']. 17 deer killed during Douglas's ten-day stay: 'it grieved me exceedingly I was so placed that only a small one could be preserved', having killed the young male from the distance of 115 yards 'with ball'. The flesh fine and delicate white. The deer coming in the mornings to a nearby salt marsh. The weather good except on one day

Collecting plants and seeds (specimens 447-460), including Nicotiana pulverulenta [unidentified] ('of Pursh [Frederick Traugott Pursh], correctly supposed by Nuttall [Thomas Nuttall] to exist on the Columbia. Whether its original habitat is here, in the mountains or on the Missouri [Missouri River, Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Iowa, Kansas and Missouri, United States of America], I am unable to say, but am inclined to think it must be in the mountains. I am informed by the hunters it is more abundant towards them, and particularly so among the Snake Indians [Northern Paiute, Bannock and Shoshone in Idaho, Oregon, Nevada, Utah, Wyoming, Montana and Canada], who frequently visit the Indians inhabiting the headwaters of the Missouri. The natives cultivate it here, and although I made diligent search for it, it never came under my notice, until now. They do not cultivate it near their camps or lodges, lest it should be taken for use before maturity. An open place in the wood is chosen where there is dead wood, which they burn and sow the seeds in the ashes. Fortunately, I met with one of the little plantations, and supplied myself with seeds and specimens without delay. On my way home I met the owner, who seeing it under my arm, appeared to be much displeased, but by presenting him with 2 finger-lengths of tobacco from Europe, his wrath was appeased and we became good friends. He then gave me the above description of cultivating it. I was much pleased with the idea of using wood ashes. Thus we see that even the savages on the Columbia know the good effects produced on vegetation by the use of carbon. His knowledge of plants and their uses gained him another finger-length. When we smoked we were all in all [comfortable]'), a species of Oxalis ('[perennial], flowers yellow, abundant in low, moist woods'), a species of Lycopus ('in all wet meadows'), Phlox sabinii [unidentified as at Aug 2018] ('it gave me much pleasure to meet with [it], with abundance of seed, a very small portion which I had from the first place I found it on the Columbia. Here it was much stronger, 2 feet to 30 inches high in light, rich brown loam') and a species of Prunus ('a small tree. Fruit small, red and sour') [here the journal includes a list of approximately 10 more plants]



(30 Aug-1 Sep 1825) Returning from the journey. Drying and arranging seeds. Writing up notes

(1 Sep 1825) Going to the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids] to collect seeds of plants seen in flower in June. Travelling in a canoe with Chumtalia, a local chief. Arriving the following evening. Chumtalia accompanying Douglas on some of his excursions: 'I found him during my stay very attentive and received no harm or insult. They were only a few years since very hostile. The company's [Hudson Bay Company] boats were frequently pillaged by them'

Going to the top of a mountain on the north side of the river, the journey taking three days through dead wood, detached rocks and rivulets. Being able to carry only a little paper for collecting: 'indeed I was obliged to leave my blanket, which on my route is all my bedding, at my first encampment about 2/3 up. My provision was 3oz tea, 1lb sugar and 4 small biscuits'. The vegetation on the summit consisting of low shrubs, mainly herbs. Catching no fish on the second day. Seeing no other birds except hawks, eagles and vultures at the high altitude. Killing one young white-headed eagle [bald eagle], roasting it with his small tea pan: 'I found [it] very good eating'. Sleeping one night near the summit. Eating fresh salmon without salt, pepper or other spices, with some biscuits and tea: 'a great luxury after a day's march'

Collecting plants and seeds (specimens 461-499), including several species of Pinus ('a tall, splendid tree, leaves glaucous. Probably I am mistaken as to Pinus taxifolia [?Abies balsamea or Pseudotsuga menziesii, Douglas fir], which I supposed to be plentiful on the banks of the river. This I think more likely to be it. The cones being on the top, I was unable to procure any: all the trees were too large to be cut down with my small hatchet, and as to climbing I have already learned the propriety of leaving no property at the bottom of the tree [for the incident referred to, when his coat was stolen while he climbed a tree during his first journey, 20 Sep 1823, see RHS/Col/5/1/1/1]. I went up one, but the top was too weak to bear me. The height was so great, that I could not bring down any cones with buck-shot. Make a point of obtaining it by some means or other'), a species of Poa ('[annual], small, creeping, on the sandy banks of rivers'), a species of Oxalis ('[perennial], leaves large, flowers white, mountain springs'), Lycopodium denticulatum [Lycopodioides denticulata] ('abundant') and Cornus canadensis ('in fruit') [here the journal includes a list of 33 more plants]

Being excited to see Helonias tenax [Xerophyllum tenax] on the summit, but the plant not being in flower or in seed, 'I had the mortification to be content with strong plants of this year's growth, and decayed stalks and capsules of last year's growth. The plant not susceptible to being eaten by animals, and able to withstand the cold climate, with the temperature 43° on 8 Sep. The leaves of the plant, known as 'quip quip', being used for making watertight baskets. Douglas's friend Cockqua arriving from the coast and bringing him three English-style hats, as ordered in July, with the fourth hat ('which will have some initials wrought in it') to be sent when ready: 'I think them a good specimen of the ingenuity of the natives, and particularly also being made by the little girl, 12 years old'. Paying one blanket ('value 7s') for them. Smoking together, Douglas giving Cockqua 'a dram and a few needles, beads, pins and rings as a present for the little girl'. Cockqua giving Douglas seeds of Vaccinium ovatum: 'I have circulated notices among my Indian acquaintances to obtain it for me'

(13 Sep-3 Oct 1825) Returning to Fort Vancouver. Learning on arrival that the ship had returned from the north and would be proceeding to England: 'my time must now be taken up packing, arranging and writing for a short time'. Arranging seeds and specimens and transcribing the journal. Writing to Joseph Sabine, Dr Hooker [William Jackson Hooker, professor of botany at the University of Glasgow and director of the Glasgow Botanic Gardens], Mr Murray of Glasgow [Stewart Murray, curator of the Glasgow Botanic Gardens], Archibald Menzies and Douglas's brother [John Douglas]. Going the following morning to ensure boxes placed safely on the ship [here the page is signed with: 'Fort Vancouver, Columbia River, Oct 3 1825, D.D.']

Listing plants (specimens 500-508), including Monoecia ('[annual]. Male flowers small, anther yellow. Leaves alternate, ovate, entire, scabrous. Capsule 2-celled, 2-seeded, seeds oblong. This plant I found early in the spring, destitute of leaves, with perfect seeds on the withered stalks of last year. Plentiful near villages and banks of rivers'), a species of Cerastium ('[annual], stem prostrate, flowers small, white. On the sandy shores of rivers. Plentiful'), a species of Artemisia ('[perennial], tall, 3 to 4 feet high, erect and rarely branching. A fine species. Banks of the Cow-a-lidsk River [Cowlitz River, Washington]. Rarer than most other species'), a species of Portulaca ('[annual], creeping. On sandy shores of rivers and all low soils') and a species of 'Donia?' ['[annual], abundant on all dry, elevated gravelly plains. This I think I found a few starved specimens of early in the season at the falls of the Columbia [Columbia River]

(4-22 Oct 1825) Injuring his knee by falling on a rusty nail while packing boxes and being unable to take the boxes to the ship. Writing a note to Captain Henry Hanwell, requesting the boxes to be placed 'in an airy situation', particularly the chest of seeds, and preferably above the water level. Giving Hanwell a note for Joseph Sabine. Receiving a quick response with a promise to comply with Douglas's request and to visit Sabine on his arrival in England. Douglas's leg becoming 'violently inflamed' on 7 Oct, with a large abscess on the knee, lasting until 16 Oct: 'it is needless to observe that I was unable to continue my journeys or increase my collection during the time. This very unfortunate circumstance gave me much uneasiness, being my harvest of seed'

(22 Oct-15 Nov 1825) Leaving Vancouver [Washington] on learning that the ship had been detained by contrary winds. Travelling in a small canoe accompanied by '4 Indians'. Intending to visit his old shipmates before going to Whitbey Harbour [Gray's Harbor, Washington] on the Cheecheeler River [Chehalis River, Washington] at latitude 48° to collect new plants and plants for which there were only imperfect specimens, including Helonias tenax [Xerophyllum tenax] ('a very desirable plant for cultivation')

Camping at the junction of the Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel] at sunset, after travelling only 20 miles, a strong wind setting in from the sea. Leaving at dawn on Sunday morning, but having to have the canoe 'freshly gummed' [to waterproof it] before leaving the encampment. The canoe breaking on a tree stump after a few miles, and Douglas having to paddle quickly to the shore: 'during the time my Indians were repairing it, I occupied the office of cook', making himself tea and boiling salmon for them. Continuing the journey at 10am. Arriving at Oak Point village [Washington] at 8pm to find food, and receiving (from 'an Indian') a letter from John Scouler, the surgeon of the ship, informing him the ship would not leave for a few more days. Wishing to write to Joseph Sabine 'up to that date'. Going four miles further down the river to dine, having obtained some salmon and wild gooseand continuing the journey at 10pm, expecting to reach the sea 45 miles away before dawn. Having to stop at 4am on Monday morning due to a strong westerly breeze: 'indeed this was almost necessary under any circumstance, my canoe being so frail'

Reaching the mouth of the river at 9am and finding out to his disappointment that the ship had sailed an hour before. After breakfast, the canoe men lying down to sleep, and Douglas taking his gun and knapsack to walk along the bay looking for seeds. Returning in the evening to the lodge of Madsue or Thunder [Comcomly, chief of the Chinook confederacy], one of the Chenook [Chinookan] chiefs. Finding Madsue's brother Tha-a-muxi, or the Bear, a chief from Whitby Harbour [Gray's Harbor], on his way home. Tha-a-muxi offering to accompany Douglas

(25 Oct 1825) Tuesday. Being ferried across the bay by Com Comly or Madsue [Comcomly]: 'our canoe being small, and as I found his so much more commodious, I negotiated with him to lend it to me'. Receiving the larger canoe at Baker's Bay [Baker Bay], at the entrance to Knight's River [Wallacut River, Washington]

Giving the two chiefs in the evening 'a dram of well-watered rum, which pernicious liquor they will make any sacrifice to obtain. I found an exception in my guide Tha-a-muxi, he would not taste any. I inquired the reason and he informed me with much merriment that some years since he got drunk and became very quarrelsome in his village, so much so that the young men had to bind his hands and feet, which he looked on as [a] great affront. He has not tasted any since. In lieu of that I found him an expensive companion in the way of smoking, so greedily would he seize the pipe and inhale any particles of smoke in the lungs, that he regularly would 5 or 6 times a day fall down in a state of stupefaction. Smoking with them being the test of friendship, it is indispensable. I was of course compelled to join. I found my mode gave him as much sport as his gave me. He observed 'Oh, why do you throw away the food? Look at me, I take it in my belly''

On Wednesday, travelling four miles over Cape Disappointment on the north side of the Columbia River, to a small rivulet flowing into the ocean 12 miles to the north. Finding it difficult to drag the canoe through the wood, over rocks, stumps and gullets [gully]. Going a few miles along the coast. Thick fog with drizzly rain setting in two hours before dusk. Having to camp for the night under a rock a little above the tidemark, overshadowed by large pines. His knee becoming more painful and stiff due to having had to carry the canoe, or because of the rain and cold

Continuing the journey at dawn after 'a comfortless night's rest'. Travelling as quickly as possible, with nothing to eat. Reaching Cape Foulweather [Douglas appears to have been at Cape Shoalwater, Washington, and may be confusing the name with Cape Foulweather south of the Columbia River, in Oregon] in the evening, 40 miles along the coast. With sixteen miles left, realising it was 'too great an undertaking to be done by so few'. Sending 'two of the Indians' with the canoe to the Columbia River: not having had any food, they preferred leaving the same evening, hoping to obtain some fish. Douglas staying behind with his guide [Tha-a-muxi] and two others. After about two hours, 'a most violent hurricane' setting in. Douglas worrying about the safety of the travellers, but learning later they had sheltered in a creek. Not being able to make a fire due to the heavy rain and wind. Ready to leave Cape Foulweather ('which name it merits'). Being unable to walk well. Not seeing any birds, all the wild [fowl] having fled to more sheltered parts


Deciding to walk to the north side of Whitbey Harbour [Gray's Harbor], having been two days without food, his guide expecting a fishing party there from his village. Arriving at 6pm, having walked since 4am: 'I hardly can give an idea of my afflicted state'. The violent storm continuing, preventing the fishing party from leaving their village, 'which increased my misery'. The guide and the Indians collecting fuel and Douglas making a small booth of branches, grass and some old mats, his blanket having got wet in the rain and there being nowhere to dry it: 'I deemed it prudent not to lay down to sleep, therefore I spent this night at the fire'

Feeling much worse on Saturday and his knee too painful all day to move. 'Crawling out' at dusk with his gun, killing five ducks ('with one shot') and cooking them: 'one of the Indians ate a part raw, the other did not take time to pluck the feathers off, but literally burned them to save time'. Douglas, although hungry, losing his appetite and making a pot of tea: 'with a bit of duck, I made a good supper. Very little sufficed me'. Their guides arriving at midnight, attracted by the fire and expecting the chief to arrive. Douglas sleeping, and being woken up in the morning by Tha-a-muxi: 'he would not allow them to wake me or make any noise, having had no sleep last night, and very little the 2 nights before'

Killing two large gulls, one white with bluish wings and black feathers, the other mottled grey, and a species of Colymbus [grebe or loon], but not being able to preserve them. Reaching the guide's village before dusk

Cheecheeler River [Chehalis River] a large stream, nearly as large as the Thames, rapid with numerous cascades. Staying for several days at the guide's [Tha-a-muxi] house. Finding seeds of Helonias, but not finding much else due to the lateness of the season. Collecting plenty of seeds of Carex (specimen 432, 'splendid') and Lupinus (specimen 426, 'the roots of which are gathered and roasted in the embers and eaten', the wild liquorice mentioned by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark: 'there is in the root a large quantity of farinaceous substance, and it is a very nutritious, wholesome food [...] called by them somuchtan [...] seed-vessel 1-celled, seed angular, calyx none, corolla 5-petal, lanceolate, stamens 5-9, style 3-cleft, flowers faint white, leaves alternate, linear, sessile, revolute, stem suffruticose, covered with chaff scales')

(7 Nov 1825) Proceeding up the river in a canoe with his guide. Stopping when seeing 'anything different from what I had seen before'

(11 Nov 1825) Finding the canoe too large to pass many places in the shallow, cascading waters 60 miles from the ocean. Deciding not to proceed further. Giving his guide Tha-a-muxi 'such presents as were adequate for the service and kindness I had experienced from him'. The guide requesting Douglas shave him, 'as he had pretentions to civilisation and aped with nicety European manners'. Douglas inviting him to visit at new year, 'when I should give him a dram, a smoke and shave him again'

Staying at a village: 'I bargained with an Indian to carry my baggage on his horse to the Cou-a-lidsk River [Cowlitz River], one of the northern branches of the Columbia [Columbia River]. I had some difficulty with this fellow in accomplishing my end, he was the most mercenary rascal I have seen. I had to give him 20 shots of ammunition, 2 feet of tobacco, a few flints and a little vermilion'. The rain too heavy the following day to proceed

(13 Nov 1825) Setting out early in the morning 'with my two Indians on foot, the horse carrying my little baggage with the owner', for a distance of about 40 miles. The roads being very bad and flooded due to the heavy rains, and Douglas having to take off his clothes and swim across some of them. Torrential rain in the afternoon. The country a plain, with no place for camping

Reaching Cow-a-lidsk [Cowlitz River] at sunset, 'being greatly fatigued'. The route following the foot of Mount St Helens of Vancouver [Washington]. Staying at the house of Schachanaway, the chief of the Chenooks [Chinookan] [Scanewa, chief of the Cowlitz], who had brought a bag of potatoes, flour, molasses and rum from a trading visit, 'all of which I had a portion, and a comfortable night's lodging. A small boat had been lent to him, which I considered fortunate, as it enabled me to proceed without delay'

(14 Nov 1825) Setting off before 5am, after breakfast. The river narrow but deep and rapid, with currents running over six miles an hour. Camping in the afternoon on a small wooded island near Columbia River, 40 miles from the ocean

(15 Nov 1825) The boat grounding at ebb tide. Having to wait for the tide in the morning, 'not having strength enough to slide her along on the sand'. Proceeding up the Columbia River at 6am with a fresh breeze. Arriving at Fort Vancouver at 11.30pm, after 25 days 'during which I experienced more fatigue and misery, and gleaned less than [on] any trip I have had in the country'

(16 Nov-31 Dec 1825) Due to his 'infirm state' and the rainy season, Douglas 'totally banished every thought from my mind of being able to do much more in the way of botany for a season', regretting having to abandon his work

(18 Nov 1825) The 'express [York Factory Express or Columbia Express, Hudson's Bay Company annual fur brigade transporting supplies and despatches between Hudson Bay, Manitoba, Canada and Fort Vancouver in Washington], consisting of 2 boats and 40 men', arriving from Hudson's Bay [Hudson Bay, Canada], having left on 21 Jul: 'in this distant land, where there is only an annual post, they were by every person made welcome guests. I hastened to the landing-place, congratulating myself on the news from England. I learned with much regret there were no letters, parcel, or any article for me'. The party, having left Hudson's Bay before the arrival of the ship that had left London the previous May, had left any possible letter from Joseph Sabine on the other side of the continent until the following November

Mr McLeod [Hudson's Bay Company fur trader, explorer], 'the person in charge of the party', had met Captain Franklin's [John Franklin] party in July at Cumberland Lake [Saskatchewan, Canada] on their way to their winter residence at Bear Lake [Great Bear Lake, Northwest Territories, Canada]: 'their stay being only a few minutes, Dr Richardson [John Richardson, doctor and naturalist accompanying John Franklin on his expedition] did not write to me'. Hearing a Mr Drummond [Thomas Drummond, Scottish botanist] was accompanying the party as a botanist, having come with McLeod to the foot of the Rocky Mountains, intending to spend the summer in the country near Peace [Peace River, British Columbia and Alberta, Canada] and Smoky Rivers [Smoky River, Alberta]: 'this I take to be Drummond of Forfar, from the description given of him'

McLeod ('an agreeable gentlemanly man, and from whom I have had much kindness'), had spent the last five years at Fort Good Hope [Northwest Territories] on the Mackenzie River [Yukon and Northwest Territories, Canada] and knew the area very well. McLeod informing Douglas that, 'if the natives can be believed, with whom he was well acquainted and perfectly conversant in their language', there was another large river west of the Mackenzie River, running parallel to it and falling into the sea near Icy Cape [Alaska, United States of America], with a trading post at the mouth of the river on a wooded island. In this trading post, 'the people have large beards and [are] very wicked. They have hanged several of the natives to the rigging, and have ever since been in much disrepute. Much stress may with many be laid on this statement with all safety, as he showed me several articles of Russian manufacture, among which were small Russian copper coins, metal combs etc. But the most convincing proof that the difficulty of transportation by land or water is trifling, is large 4, 5 & 6-gallon malleable iron pots of very coarse workmanship, and very different from anything in the trade of the British Fur Company'. The sea west of the Mackenzie River said to be open after July, making it possible to reach Icy Cape by land or by water: 'Mr M. had the Indians assembled for the purpose of extending their territory in that direction', before having to leave for Hudson's Bay: 'in him there is a great example of perseverance, visiting the Polar Sea [Arctic Ocean], the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans in the short space of 11 months'

During the short spells of good weather, Douglas 'crawling out' to shoot birds or other animals, or to collect Musci or cryptogamic plants in the woods. Hardly any frost yet and the days pleasant when dry, but the nights cold and damp. Torrential rain on 24 Dec, his small bark hut flooding, with 14 inches of water in it: John McLoughlin inviting Douglas to stay in his half-finished house 'as my lodgings were not of the most comfortable sort'. Taking his belongings there on Christmas day. 'After the morning service was performed, they took an airing on horseback', but Douglas unable to join them due to his 'troublesome knee'

(1 Jan 1826) Sunday. 'Commencing a year in such a far removed corner of the earth, where I am nearly destitute of civilised society, there is some scope for reflection'. On this day in 1824, having been on the Atlantic on his way to England, in 1825, between the Juan Fernandez [Juan Fernandez Islands] and the Gallipagos [Galapagos Islands]: 'I am now here, and God only knows where I may be the next. In all probability, if a change does not take place, I will shortly be consigned to the tomb. I can die satisfied with myself. I never have given cause for remonstrance or pain to an individual on earth. I am in my 27th year'

(2 Jan-1 Mar 1826) 'As my journal would be of little consequence containing a statement of weather and so on, I do not transcribe it'. Hunting birds during the season, including silver-headed eagle [?bald eagle], 'called by the natives 'chuck chuck'', abundant by all rivers with fish, but wary and difficult to catch. Their call a weak whistle, building their nests in large trees on conspicuous points on the riverbanks and having two to four young at a time. The young birds keeping to their nest for several weeks and rarely going far. The colour of the first plumage brownish-black, turning into mottled grey the first spring, and the head and tail turning white during their second year. Returning from the Grand Rapids [Cascades Rapids] the previous September, Douglas saw an eagle taking a sturgeon out of the water: 'I lifted my gun and brought him down. The claws were so firmly clenched through the cartilaginous substance of the back, that he did not let go until I introduced a needle in the vertebrae of the neck'

Hunting other birds, including the common magpie (rare in the low country, the first one seen in November. Hearing they were plentiful in the upper country, perhaps migrating there in the summer. The birds being similar to the European species, except in size and the brighter azure purple of the male tail feathers: 'the American variety has the same trait in his character as the European, of annoying horses that have any sores about them'. Killing a pair in January), wood partridge (not rare, but not as numerous as on the other side of the continent, living in dry, gravelly soils among hazel bushes and other brushwood on the outskirts of woods, very shy and staying in the low thicket: 'it is only by chance shot on wing they can be secured. I preserved 2 of this fine species, but a villainous rat mutilated one of the males so much that I had to throw it away', and being unable to replace it), small blue jay (distinct species from C. cristatus [Cuculus cristatus, Coua cristata] of Wilson [James Wilson, zoologist]: 'indeed I do not remember any species that will agree with it in his work', the common blue jay being a shy bird, seen in the autumn in large flocks, rarely near houses. This bird usually seen in flocks of 30-40, very tame, visiting the dunghills of Indian villages like the English robin. Preserving three) and large brown eagle (less plentiful and less shy than other eagles, not as ferocious as the silver-headed eagle, 'of which he stands [in] great awe'. Catching only one, apparently not feeding on fish, but finding wild fowl in its stomach) [here the journal includes a list of 6 more birds]

(Pages 143-144) [here the volume includes a blank page with a note, probably by the editors of the 1914 transcription, for the printers: 'Do not set up any of following']. The verso page, reversed, contains a list of the contents of a box, with a heading 'Box second, continued' [for the beginning of the list of the contents of the box, see page 164], including three small blue jays, a female lynx, 'a cake of Gaultheria shallon or sallal, compressed and dried in the sun for winter use', 'buffalo tongue, pickled, will only require to be warmed before being used' and '40 unwashed arrows' [here the list includes 21 more items. There is a pencil note, probably by the 1914 editors: 'do not set this']

The country containing a smaller variety of quadrupeds than in other parts of America, including elk ('which the hunters say agrees with the biche of the other side'), two species of rabbits and one species of hare ('neither I have seen alive'), a 'most singular' species of fox [gray fox] ('smaller than any yet known', 33-40 inches long, with short, coarse hair, 'and, what is singular, brown at the base, white in the middle and black at the points, which gives a light grey', with a white belly, light brown sides and a black stripe on the back: 'it differs from most of the genus in its propensity for climbing trees'. Seeing it first on 'two skins forming a robe for an Indian child, belonging to the Calapooie [Kalapuya] tribe' on Multnomah River [Multnomah Channel]. Wishing to purchase some of the skins in August 1825 'for the purpose of showing them at the establishment, but too great value was put on them') and lynx ('on a hunting excursion in February in company with Mr McLeod, we raised a large lynx, [and] a small bull terrier dog immediately seized the lynx by the throat and killed it without much trouble. This skin I preserved, being in a good state') [here the journal includes a list of 3 more animals]

(20 Feb 1826) Jean Baptist McKay [Jean Baptiste Desportes McKay, French-Algonquin free trapper], one of the hunters returning from the Multnomah, bringing Douglas a cone of a species of Pinus. Douglas had asked McKay the previous August to bring him 12 cones, twigs and a small bag of seeds, having seen large seeds and scales 'in an Indian's shot-pouch' and being told the tree grew a little to the south. Receiving instead only one cone and being told that there were no seeds during that season: 'he is in a few days to start for the same quarter, and as he has left orders with some of the Indians to collect seed cones and twigs, I am certain of obtaining it'. The tree belonging to Pursh's [Frederick Traugott Pursh] '2. section', 20-50 feet in circumference, 170-220 feet high, almost without branches until the top, the wood fine with plenty of resin: 'growing trees that have been burned by the natives to save the trouble of collecting other fuel, yield a sugar-like substance, which they gather and use in seasoning, in the same manner as sugar in civilised society'. The seeds gathered at the end of the summer, pounded and baked into a cake, 'considered a great treat amongst them'. Being confident of being able to get more information about 'this very desirable tree', offering McKay 'a reasonable compensation' for bringing it to him. Being grateful for John McLoughlin for explaining to McKay what Douglas wanted. Obtaining an elk snare from McKay, 'a netted purse, made of a durable sort of grass, I think a different species of Helonias'. Giving McKay some paper bags, paper and fine shot for shooting small birds to send to Douglas during the summer

Concluding there is still much to do around the country: 'after a careful consideration as to the propriety of remaining for a season longer than instructed to do, I have resolved not to leave for one year to come'. Having seen some of the upper country towards the head of the river and the Rocky Mountains, 'I cannot in justice to the Society's interest do otherwise'. Being however uncertain of his justification for staying, apologising if his decision should not be approved: 'in doing so, two considerations presented themselves, first, as I am incurring very little expense, second, being laid up an invalid last autumn during my seed harvest, and lost doubtless many interesting things [...] Most cheerfully will I labour for this year without any remuneration, if I get only wherewith to purchase a little clothing'

Having the opportunity to cross the continent to Montreal [Quebec, Canada], he 'could never for a moment forget myself so far as to pass over unnoticed a country deserving the strictest research'. If crossing the continent should be impossible in spring 1827, promising to attempt to reach London by sea, but hoping that would not be necessary. Planning to stay on the Columbia River at Wallawallah [Fort Nez Perces, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Wallula, Washington] ('the lowest'), Spokane [Spokane House, Hudson's Bay Company trading post, Spokane, Washington] ('the middle'), or Kettle Falls [Fort Colvile at Kettle Falls, Hudson Bay Company's trading post, Washington; Fort Colvile and Kettle Falls were later submerged by Grand Coulee Dam] ('the highest establishment on the Columbia, and its branches as may appear most interesting, and as the distance does not exceed more than 800 miles, frequent journeys can be made to and from each in the course of the season'). Expecting the ship which he was to return on to reach the coast soon, but not expecting to be on the coast himself until November, therefore intending to pack up his collection to send to England now, send his seeds to Hudson's Bay and 'make extracts of my journal, although at this season it can be of but little interest to the society'

(Pages 161-162) 'Box 4th', list of the contents of a box, including '1 small jar of pickled salmon (PS The salmon will only require to be warmed)', '3 mats, one made of a species of Scirpus, one of Typha angustifolia, and one of the inner bark of Thuja occidentalis from Puget Sound [Washington], the 2 former are from the Columbia [Columbia River]', '1 male white albatross from Cape Horn', '1 small vulture from the Columbia' and '1 Chenook [Chinookan] hat, formerly property of Cockqua, the principal chief (who presented it to me) of the tribe inhabiting the north banks of the Columbia, near the ocean' [here the list includes 14 more items]

(Page 163) 'Copy of the contents of the boxes sent home by the William & Ann 1825', including '184 papers of seeds, North America, a portion of the finer in 2 jars', '1 bottle of Gaultheria shallon', '1 jar of seed, Acer macrophylla [Acer macrophyllum]', '35 papers [of] seeds, Juan Fernandes [Juan Fernandez Islands]' and '2 bundles [of] dry plants, most of the finer ones collected are in these and the 2 succeeding numbers' [here the list includes 4 more items]

(Page 164) 'Box 2nd', list of the contents of a box, including '12 bundles of dry plants, North America, numbers 3-14', '10 Indian pouches made with the bark of Typha angustifolia, Helonias tenax [Xerophyllum tenax] and a small species of Fucus', 'a few marine shells, Rio de Janeiro and minerals from Juan Fernandes [Juan Fernandez Islands]', '1 pair of Indian slippers' and '1 cake of bread, made of a root which grows on the high grounds towards the Rocky Mountains' [here the list includes 6 more items; for a further list of items in the box, see pages 143-144]

(Page 165) List of additions to the boxes, 31 Aug 1826, including '3 mountain crows, 2 male, 1 female', '1 rat', '1 bow covered with snake skin used by the natives inhabiting Fraser's River', '4 hats made of Helonias tenax [Xerophyllum tenax], Mr Sabine [Joseph Sabine] will find one with his initials in the crown, 2 for him and 2 for Mr Turner [John Turner]' and '134 papers of seeds collected 1826' [here the list includes 8 more items]

(Pages 167-168) 'Box 3', list of the contents of a box, including 'bundle [of] dry plants, Rio de Janeiro', '3 hats made after the European fashion of Helonias and Typha', '1 Indian shot pouch decorated with porcupine quills', '1 very singular species of rat with pouches. Killed in anger in my hut. During the whole season I have been much annoyed by these intruders carrying away and destroying my seeds. They burrow in the plains. In the nest of the only one killed which was in the floor of my hut, were a large portion of my seeds, bits of paper, 5 small rocks, balls and buck shot, and one of my pens, which I thought had been stolen by some of the natives. The one now sent is female. I am first constructing traps to take more of them') and '1 pair of moles, sex unknown' [here the list includes 12 more items]

(Page 169) 'Collection packed in March 1826, box first', including '1 bottle acorns in sand', 'an elk snare', '2 lots of gambling articles used in a favourite game', 'a Cheenook [Chinookan] tobacco pipe' and 'a mineral used as soap by the inhabitants of the Strait of Juan de Fuca [Canada and United States of America], contains soda carb' [here the list includes 11 more items]

(Pages 171-177, 181) Notes in an unidentified hand on the habitat, distribution, behaviour and appearance of quadrupeds, including prong-horned antelope ('common on the open plains [...] Carlton House is the best place to procure. It inhabits the plains of the Columbia also, but is less common'), mouton gris of the voyageurs [bighorn sheep] ('this interesting animal is common, it would appear, over an immense extent of country'), red deer or stag ('the animal so common on the shores of N. America, and described by navigators under the name of elk, is considered by the hunters to be the same species'), black bear ('common in most places, and readily taken. A pelt of this species is seen almost at any Indian camp, and may be procured without the least difficulty') and moose[?] ('Jacques Cardinal, who lives in the mountains at Jasper's House possesses more knowledge of this animal than any other man, and could, I have no hesitation in saying, by the aid of his hunter, succeed in procuring it') [here the list includes 9 more animals]

(Page 179) Notes on P. contorta [Pinus contorta], with a reference to Joseph Sabine's article in Transactions of the Horticultural Society of London [sic; a letter from David Douglas to Joseph Sabine was published in the Transactions of the Linnean Society, volume 15, 1826, 'An account of a new species of Pinus, native of California: in a letter to Joseph Sabine, esq, FR and LS, secretary of the Horticultural Society. By Mr David Douglas, ALS Communicated by Mr Sabine. Read November 6, 1827', and in volume 16, 1833, 'Description of a new species of the genus Pinus'. For Douglas's unpublished manuscripts on the genus Pinus, see RHS/Col/5/2/3/1-2; this note appears to be related to those manuscripts, and to have been written following Douglas's journey]

(Page 183) A map drawn in an unidentified hand, depicting possibly a river with two or three locations marked, including a caption 'Cape [illegible]'

(Page 185) List of contents of three boxes 'Sent from the Kettle Falls on the Columbia [Columbia River]', 5 Jun-18 Aug [1826], including '1 box containing 3 bundles of dried plants', '1 small female pheasant', 'a letter to Joseph Sabine, esq, containing a note to my brother', '1 female rat (curious species)' and '2 shirts' [here the list includes 4 more items]. One of the boxes (18 Aug [1826]) is noted as having been left at Kettle Falls 'to be sent across the Rocky Mountains [...] addressed to be left at Fort Edmonton [Hudson's Bay Company trading post in Alberta, Canada], where I will find [it] early in May 1827'.

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1 volume

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RHS archive: plant collector papers

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Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library

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Royal Horticultural Society

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RHS Lindley Collections

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