Second expedition of David Douglas: Journal 1
Information
Title - Second expedition of David Douglas: Journal 1
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/5/2/1/1
Date - 25 Jul 1824-1 Mar 1826
Scope & content - David Douglas's journal relating to his second expedition to the north-western coast of North America, covering the journey from England via Madeira, Cabo Verde, Brazil, Juan Fernandez Islands and Galapagos Islands to the Columbia River
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-142: Narrative of journey, 25 Jul 1824-1 Mar 1826
Pages 143-144: 'Box second, continued'
Pages 145-151: Narrative of journey, 1 Mar 1826
Pages 152-160: Blank
Pages 161-162: 'Box 4th'
Page 163: 'Copy of the contents of the boxes sent home by the William & Ann 1825'
Page 164: 'Box 2nd'
Page 165: 'Added to No 2, Aug 31 1826'
Pages 167-168: 'Box 3'
Page 169: 'Collection packed in March 1826, box first'
Pages 171-177: Notes on the habitat, distribution, behaviour and appearance of quadrupeds
Page 179: Notes on P. contorta [Pinus contorta]
Page 181: Notes on quadrupeds continued
Page 183: An unidentified map
Page 185: 'Sent from the Kettle Falls on the Columbia'
Physical description: Bound in hard covers with marbled paper sides in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins, with brown and purple veined endpapers. Labelled 'Fair Journal, David Douglas 1823'. The binding is in fair condition. Many leaves are detached, and there are loose inserted slips of paper and leaves of various sizes pasted in at the rear of the volume. Dimensions: 32.5 (h) 20.5 (w) cm
This journal is a draft version. Another version of this was written later by Douglas (for another version of Douglas's journal, 24 Jul 1824-13 Apr 1826, see RHS/Col/5/2/1/2). A transcription combining the two texts was published by the Royal Horticultural Society in 1914, edited by the secretary of the Society, Rev William Wilks and the librarian, H.R. Hutchinson, with the title 'Douglas' journal 1823-1827'
The volume is written in David Douglas's hand. Loose leaves at the rear of the volume include additions in Douglas's hand and in an unidentified hand. There are annotations in pencil and ink in another hand, probably by the editors of the journals in 1914. These annotations expand abbreviations, clarify spelling and separate the entries, and have not been noted in the description
The volume is written initially on rectos only, and then reversed and written on versos (entries 1 Jan 1825-7 Apr 1825, pages 53-62); thereafter it is written on both rectos and versos
Original pagination is on the upper right-hand corners of rectos and versos. The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Enclosures: The volume includes four loose inserts comprising notes on plants (inserted at pages 71, 77, 79 and 97)
Illustrations: There is a small drawing of a steam hut or a sauna on page 82, within the entry for 1 May 1825. The text includes symbols to indicate annual or perennial plants, which have been rendered in the description as [annual] and [perennial]
Summary of contents:
(25 Jul 1824) Leaving London at 8.30am by the Times Coach to Gravesend. Passing rye and barley fields. Going on board the Hudson Bay Company ship William and Ann, with Captain Hanwell [Henry Hanwell, captain of the William and Ann], bound for the Columbia River [Washington and Oregon, United States of America, and British Columbia, Canada], north-west coast of America. Returning on shore at 2pm. Seeing his brother [?John Douglas junior] to the steamboat for London in the evening and returning to the ship
(26 Jul 1824) Monday. Stowing away luggage. Sailing at 4pm with a fine breeze and light rain. Temperature 58°. Anchoring at dusk
(27 Jul 1824) Tuesday. A cold morning. Passing the Nore [Thames Estuary] at dawn. Striking the 'Shivering Sands' [Thames estuary] at 7am: 'beat about dreadfully for an hour' before being rescued, with little damage: 'I confess it gave me pleasure to be enabled to proceed, as delays in such undertaking are by no means agreeable'. The pilot leaving the ship off the coast at Deal at 6pm. Temperature 63°. Not writing [letters], the captain intending to stop at Portsmouth, 'to await the orders of the company as to his proceeding to sea, not knowing how far he might be justified in his present circumstances: 14 inches of water in the hold'
(28 Jul 1824) Wednesday. A pleasant day, temperature 73°. Passing Dover. Almost becalmed towards the evening
(29 Jul 1824) Thursday. Passing Dungeness with a favourable breeze. Becalmed at noon off the Isle of Wight. The captain deciding not to anchor at Portsmouth, the ship being in a better condition than anticipated: 'the vessel made only 2 inches of water during the last 24 hours'. Temperature at 8am 57°, at noon 73° and at 8pm 64°
(30 Jul 1824) Friday. Light winds at midnight. Seeing the Portland lights [Portland Bill lighthouse] at dawn. Calm and warm at midday. A fine wind continuing until the evening
(31 Jul 1824) Saturday. A cool, rainy morning. Warm and dry at midday. Passing the Lizard [Lizard Point, Cornwall] at 11am. A strong southerly wind with rain in the afternoon. Temperature at noon 62° and 57° at 4pm
(1 Aug 1824) Sunday. A strong north-easterly wind with heavy rain showers during the night. The sun visible in the morning. In the afternoon, the winds moderate and pleasant. Passing a schooner at 4pm. Seeing about 50 gulls and a few other seabirds during the journey down the channel. Temperature 66° at 5pm
(2 Aug 1824) Monday. Pleasant, favourable northerly wind. Latitude 47°N, longitude 11°W. Water temperature 63°, air 67°
(3 Aug 1824) A cold, northerly wind. Temperature 62° at noon. The sun visible. Latitude 45°32, longitude 12°43. 'A year has elapsed today since I arrived at Staten Island near New York [United States of America]. It was warm and pleasant, and afforded gratification after a tedious passage of 57 days from Liverpool. Is there anything in the world more agreeable to the feelings of a prisoner than liberty?' Seeing two birds resembling gulls: 'they seemed shy'
(4 Aug 1824) Proceeding about seven miles all day. The sun visible. Latitude 41°38, longitude 14°12. Temperature 68° at noon in the shade
(5 Aug 1824) Thursday. A pleasant northerly wind, warm during the day with a breeze. Cool, damp evening. Temperature 74°
(6 Aug 1824) Friday. Pleasant and dry. The sun visible. Latitude 47°. Temperature at noon 68°, water temperature 62°. Moderate winds
(7 Aug 1824) Saturday. A pleasant but cloudy morning. The sun visible at 10am. 'An observation was had, which gave 45°41'. The afternoon cloudy. Increasingly warm in the evening and during the night. Passing a vessel bound eastward
(8 Aug 1824) Sunday. A pleasant fanning wind. Prayers read by the surgeon at the captain's request. Coming in sight of Porto Santo [Madeira, Portugal] at 3pm: 'in the morning shall be regaled with a fine view'
(9 Aug 1824) Monday. Seeing the island of Porto Santo in the morning, about four leagues away. Passing the north-east point of the island at 7am in a pleasant breeze. On the eastern side of the island, the hills rising into high, rugged, barren peaks. Seeing numerous large rocks rising above the water 200-400 yards from the shore. The town 'pleasantly situated on a gentle declivity', with the high peaks to the left and less rugged conical hills to the right. The houses generally low, made of whitewashed stone, each with a large garden or a piece of cultivated land, making the town look more like a village, with vines and fruits growing well. Seeing on the western side of the island large rocks rising out of the ocean. A sudden rise in temperature, from 71° the previous day to 79° at 8am. Seeing the high mountains of Madeira at 11am, their tops in cloud: 'objects which we hailed with pleasure'. Reaching Point Lorenza [Ponta de Sao Lourenco, Madeira], the eastern point of the island. Seeing no cultivation for several miles, with low rocks, copper or blackish colour, resembling volcanic remains, and three leagues away, the barren Deserters Islands [Desertas Islands, Madeira], 'where the Portuguese transport their criminals'
The ship becalmed in the afternoon: '[it] left us to contemplate several rich and romantic valleys near the side of the ocean'. Seeing few seabirds. Anchoring in the Bay of Funchal at 7pm. Being visited by boats from the Customs and the Board of Health: 'the latter made considerable noise, as the captain had no bill of health from London. Fair words and a good deal of courtesy had to be used before matters could be adjusted'. The number of people on board being counted, and a white flag ordered to be hoisted at the masthead at dawn as a sign of quarantine. Douglas remembering his 'imprisonment' on board during his earlier journey [for Douglas's journals of his first expedition to North America, 1823-1824, see RHS/Col/5/1/1/1-2], 'but in the meantime, the health of all friends was drunk with much pleasure; and with these sensations on my mind, which will ever afford satisfaction, I wished my fellow voyagers 'good night' and went to sleep'. Temperature at 12am in the shade 80° and in the water 76°
[10-11 Aug 1824) Tuesday and Wednesday. Writing to Joseph Sabine [secretary of the Horticultural Society of London]. Summary of letter:
Written from Madeira, 10 Aug 1824. Douglas is pleased to inform Sabine of his arrival at Madeira after a pleasant passage from England; he has not yet been on shore, but will go as soon as he receives permission to do so, hoping to see a little of the island; the woods and valleys look beautiful and undoubtedly contain many interesting things; he will endeavour to see Henry Veitch [British consul in Madeira]; if the vessel stops at Rio [Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] 'or some other place equally good', he hopes to collect 'some of the yet hidden treasures'; he is grateful for the kindness and attention shown by Captain Henry Hanwell, and he is very comfortable; he is sorry for not having seen Mr Turner [John Turner, assistant secretary of the Horticultural Society] before he left
Writing to his brother [John Douglas] and going on shore after breakfast. Visiting the vegetable market on the south-west side of the town, a square of 50 yards enclosed on two sides by sheds fitted as stalls, on one side by a house serving as the butcher market, with the only entrance on the north side, and a high iron rail and a gate and four rows of wooden houses or shops with pavilion roofs in the centre of the square. The square neatly paved with round stones, clean and 'has quite a genteel appearance'. The daily market overseen by officers: 'their services I valued much, particularly as it was evident, from the movements of merchants, they were not strangers to deception'. The few vegetables including cabbage ('of inferior size, seeming a late variety; had no opportunity of tasting it'), yam ('used in lieu of potatoes, and preferred by the inhabitants to them; they are used in the same way as potatoes are in England. This is a vegetable admirably calculated for taking to sea, being not so liable to grow in warm latitudes as potatoes, and (according to experienced seamen) will keep much longer'), onion ('large, of one sort, red and flat, but much milder than those in England. From the large quantity exposed for sale I judge it to be here a favourite vegetable'), two varieties of cayenne pepper ('one small, longish fruit of a red colour; one small round yellow; the former is a native of the island) and tomato ('neither remarkable for size nor quality') [here the journal includes a list of 9 more vegetables]
The fruits being 'richer and generally of better quality', including banana or Musa sapientum ('extensively cultivated and perfects its fruit in abundance. It is usually eaten without any preparation, but when fried in a little butter it tastes like a good pancake'), lemon ('larger and better than any we are ever accustomed to see; I think them very fine'), apple ('one variety of apple, like Summer Redstreak, which it probably is. It is large, round and red-streaked, dry and mealy, an insipid fruit'), a pear resembling 'what is called in Scotland Crawford pear' ('this is by far the best fruit') and two varieties of peach ('one a large, long and pointed fruit towards the top, in form much like a lemon, with a yellow, thin and downy skin; the pulp is also bright yellow, rather, if anything, coarse flavour, and adheres to the stone') [here the journal includes a list of approximately 7 more fruits]
Mr Atkinson [William Atkinson, architect in London, who Douglas knew from Scotland; Atkinson also employed Douglas's brother John Douglas] had given Douglas several varieties of grapes, one possibly the White Muscat of Alexandria. Seeing only a few 'weighty bunches', and none with large berries: 'I am informed that the smaller bunches are brought to market and the good fruit reserved for wine. Most people have fruit of their own, so that it is chiefly for vessels calling and for the destitute', a bunch weighing about a pound costing three farthings. Bananas being sold 'according to the number of fingers on a bunch', one with 40-50 selling for 1s 6d, 'which will serve six or seven individuals for one meal'. Pears being sold by number, 30 for two and a half pence. Potatoes being sold by weight, and expensive compared to other things. Two varieties of figs, 50 of the small green fruit or 30 of the long black fruit costing four and a half pence. Soft fruits, figs and grapes carried to the market on the head in baskets, similarly to strawberries in England, and pears, apples and lemons being carried in hog skin or hemp bags on mules: 'the poorer class carry them on their backs'. Seeing two varieties of plum, a small round green fruit ('in form like greengage, colour a brighter green than it, but the flavour far inferior') and a longish oval, black fruit ('insipid taste')
Going to the north of the town to see the vineyards, the vines thriving in the valleys and deep ravines as well as on high ground, on top of old walls and on the roofs of thatched cottages. The soil light brown, resembling burned sand. Not being able to learn what, if any, manure was used. The vines planted 6-14 feet apart and supported on horizontal wood railings four or five feet from the ground. When pruning, very little old wood being left, with two or four-inch spurs left on the principal shoots. Water conveyed to the plantations by way of channels dug in the numerous rivulets: 'a cheap mode of watering, and at the same time adds beauty to the place'. The clusters daubed with mud or lime: 'for what purpose, I do not know', possibly to prevent damage from wasps and other insects. The undersides of the leaves covered with white mealy bugs, similar to those on pineapple plants in England. Old women and young girls being employed to pinch off leaves shading the fruit, stooping under the trellises: 'a delightful occupation, screened from the influence of a scorching sun'. The best fruit reserved for wine, as said at the market, but Douglas being 'somewhat disappointed' with the overall size and quality of the grapes. The clusters thinned early in the season. Passing along the lanes through the vineyards, escorted 'by an elderly matron with her distaff, and a little girl or boy, whose suspicious eyes indicated their profession'
The best, most sheltered locations for cultivation reserved for bananas. Figs thriving in low, moist, partially shaded locations. Seeing other plants cultivated and growing around the island, including Eugenia jambos [Syzygium jambos] ('matures its fruit in abundance with little attention. It is considered one of the finest fruits by the Portuguese. It thrives well in dry, light, sandy soil'), Castanea ('the only wood of the forest that the inhabitants seem to pay attention to. All the valleys and the less fertile spots on the high grounds are planted with this tree. Most of the large trees have a large protuberance, occasioned by tying ligatures round them. I thought they were grafted, but on asking was informed that it is done by way of ornament'), a species of Jasminum ('decorates old walls and hedges that surround the vineyards, forming a delightful fence'), a species of Aspidium ('tall, on moist rocks on the hills') and an annual species of Lobelia ('flowers small, blue') [here the journal includes a list of 28 more plants]
Visiting Henry Veitch's house, but finding Veitch 'had some weeks since gone on a tour to Italy'. Seeing in his garden ('laid out and kept with considerable taste') many fine trees, larger than elsewhere, with fruits including banana, Eugenia jambos [Syzygium jambos], lemon, orange, grape and peach ('in a high state of perfection'), flowers 'of warmer regions' and a fine specimen of Artocarpus incisa or bread fruit [Artocarpus altilis] 20 feet high. Temperature on board the ship at 10am and 800 feet above the sea 80°, and on the summit of the highest peak at 4pm 72°: 'the sun shone in full vigour; the fatigue of descending after a laborious day's work made me enjoy a night's rest'. Temperature on the beach at noon 84°, and the water temperature at thirty fathoms 79°. Sailing at 6pm on Wednesday, with a pleasant south-easterly breeze, pleased with the short stay in Madeira
(12 Aug 1824) Thursday. Losing sight of the mountains of Madeira. Temperature 78°-80°
(13 Aug 1824) Friday. Some seabirds hovering around the ship. More wind than the previous day. Temperature further out at sea 74°-78°
(14 Aug 1824) Saturday. The wind from the same direction. Changing specimen papers for the few specimens obtained at Madeira offering 'a fine amusement during some of the tedious hours'. Temperature 75°-79°
(15 Aug 1824) Sunday. A north-easterly wind, and a cool and pleasant morning, with temperature 70° at 6am. Seeing two gulls and, for the first time, 'immense schools' of flying fish (Exocoetus volans) [Exocoetus volitans]. Temperature at noon 78°, water temperature 75°. 'As usual, we had sermon performed'
(16 Aug 1824) Monday. No sun. Temperature 71°-76°
(17 Aug 1824) Tuesday. A strong north-easterly wind with showers. Temperature 75°-77°
(18 Aug 1824) Wednesday. A pleasant breeze. Temperature 72°-76°
(19 Aug 1824) Thursday. Seeing a ship bound eastward, 'but having a favourable wind, we did not speak [to] her'. Temperature 77°-79°
(20 Aug 1824) Friday. A cool and pleasant day. Seeing porpoises and flying fish. Temperature 76°-78°
(21 Aug 1824) Saturday. A warm day. Temperature 79°-82°. Heavy showers
(22 Aug 1824) Sunday. A gentle north-easterly wind and light showers. Seeing a ship bound southward. The sun visible at midday. Temperature 82° in the shade, water temperature 77°. Heavy rain from 2pm until 10pm and showers during the night
(23 Aug 1824) Monday. Heavy showers during the night with gusts of wind. The morning still and warm. The sun visible at 8am, cloudy the rest of the day. The evening cool and calm. Temperature 84° in the shade, water temperature 78°. Catching two species of seaweed, a variety of Fucus natans [Sargassum natans], with small shellfish attached to it, and a species of Conferva 'in close thready tufts of a bright olive colour. Intermingled with the Conferva, a small species of Fucus with circular branches and minute flattened bladders. On the same, two very minute insects of the same species, having a beautiful shining azure colour'. 60 miles off the islands of Cape Verde [Cabo Verde]
(24 Aug 1824) Tuesday. Light showers and gentle wind, cloudy. Temperature 84° in the shade, water temperature 81°. Several flying fish being washed on board during the night, 'but being much damaged, were not worth preserving'. Temperature 86° in the cabin at 8pm 'with all the air that could be given'
(25 Aug 1824) Wednesday. Temperature 87° in the shade, water temperature 81°. Light westerly winds with showers
(26 Aug 1824) Thursday. Westerly wind with heavy rain. Temperature 86° at noon, water temperature 81°. A cool and pleasant evening
(27 Aug 1824) Friday. A strong westerly wind with showers. Temperature 81°, water temperature 78°
(28 Aug 1824) Saturday. A cool and pleasant morning, fine breeze. Temperature 81°, water temperature 79°. Several large birds, possibly a species of gull, hovering around the ship, with brown backs and white under the wings and on the belly
(29 Aug 1824) Sunday. A light south-easterly wind. Temperature 83° and 80° in the shade. A cool and pleasant evening
(30 Aug 1824) Monday. A north-westerly wind. Warm, temperature 86° in the shade, water temperature 84°
(31 Aug 1824) Tuesday. Cloudy, with a westerly wind. Temperature 81° in the shade, water temperature 70°. Heavy rain in the evening
(1 Sep 1824) Wednesday. A cool and pleasant morning. Temperature 82° in the shade, water temperature 79°. Warm and close in the afternoon, with light showers. Encountering the ship Jane, from Philadelphia [Pennsylvania, United States of America], '47 days from that port', bound for Valparaiso [Chile]
(2 Sep 1824) Thursday. Very light wind and heavy rain, torrential in the evening. Temperature 78°-82°
(3 Sep 1824) Friday. A cool and pleasant morning. Temperature 79°-84°. Heavy rain in the afternoon. Preserving three specimens of 'a curious zoophyte' surrounding the ship at night in large numbers, 'producing a beautiful illumination. On being put in a bucket of sea water, they retained the same power for a few minutes, and then died'
(4 Sep 1824) Saturday. Cool and damp. The sun visible at noon. Temperature 80°, water temperature 77°. Heavy rain in the evening
(5 Sep 1824) Sunday. A light south-westerly wind. Seeing 'great flocks of a small sort of bird', resembling the European lapwing in size and in its manner of flying. Temperature 82°, water temperature 79°. 'Exceedingly pleasant' in the afternoon and evening
(6 Sep 1824) Monday. A southerly wind. Temperature 81°, water temperature 77°. Numerous petrels following the ship. Latitude 4°N
(7 Sep 1824) Tuesday. A cool and pleasant morning. Southerly wind. Temperature 84° and 80°
(8 Sep 1824) Wednesday. A pleasant morning with a light southerly wind. Temperature 81°, water temperature 76°: 'the temperature of the air and water is much greater than a person would suppose'
(9 Sep 1824) Thursday. The coolest, most pleasant time of the day from dawn until 8 or 9am, 'as usual'. A southerly wind. Temperature 79°, water temperature 76°. A pleasant evening. Heavy dews at night. Seeing no birds in recent days
(10 Sep 1824) Friday. A light and cool south-westerly wind. Temperature 86°, water temperature 79°, a larger difference than previously. 'The god of the seas paid us a visit and informed us that he would hold a levee the following day'
(11 Sep 1824) Saturday. Heavy rain during the night, with a light south-easterly wind. 'At 10 o'clock this morning Neptune, accompanied with his guard of honour, fulfilled his promise made last night, when all his unqualified sons had an interview with his majesty. The day was passed with much pleasure' [refers to the line-crossing ceremony, performed on persons first crossing the Equator and often involving the figure of Neptune, the Roman god of sea]
(12 Sep 1824) Sunday. A fine, clear day, dry, southerly and north-westerly winds. Temperature 82° and 80°. A cool and pleasant evening
(13 Sep 1824) Monday. A south-easterly wind. Temperature 79°, water temperature 79°: 'this is the first time that the temperatures came to each other'. Seeing several birds in the evening
(14-15 Sep 1824) Tuesday and Wednesday. A fanning south-easterly wind. Temperature 79°, water temperature 70°
(16 Sep 1824) Thursday. A pleasant day. Temperature 71° at 5am, 81° at noon in the shade, water temperature 80°
(17 Sep 1824) Friday. A cool south-easterly wind. Temperature 81° and 80°. 'A small bird, not unlike a sand snipe [?sandpiper], sought refuge on the vessel; unfortunately I could not make him a prisoner'. A beautiful sunset
(18 Sep 1824) Saturday. A fine easterly wind. Temperature 83°, water temperature 81°. Seeing flocks of birds, some appearing to be land birds, and insects: 'welcome visitors, the sight of which tends to make people uneasy, particularly when they cannot be caught'
(19 Sep 1824) Sunday. Temperature 78° at 8am, 83° at noon, water temperature 81°. Passing a schooner bound northward. A pleasant afternoon with a favourable easterly breeze. Latitude 15°30S
(20 Sep 1824) Monday. An easterly wind, warm and clear. Temperature 82°, water temperature 79°. Pleasant evening. Making paper bags for seed in preparation for reaching Rio Janeiro [Rio de Janeiro]. Latitude 17°52'S
(21 Sep 1824) Tuesday. A strong southerly wind and rain, producing a heavy sea. Catching a butterfly. Several birds following the ship. No sun. Temperature 73°, water temperature 74°
(22 Sep 1824) Wednesday. Southerly wind. Temperature 70° at 8am, 75° at noon, water temperature 74°. Pleasant but cold towards the evening. Killing a bird known by the sailors as the Cape pigeon [Cape petrel]. Latitude 19°6S
(23 Sep 1824) Thursday. A strong south-easterly wind. Temperature 72°, water temperature 70°. The number of birds increasing
(24 Sep 1824) Friday. A cold and wet morning. Temperature 68°, with a strong northerly wind, clearing away at noon, 'which gave an opportunity of finding our latitude'. The weather becoming 'more boisterous' in the afternoon and through the night: 'very little sleep was had by any person'
(25 Sep 1824) Saturday. A cloudy morning with a northerly wind, heavy showers and rough sea, clearing towards midday. Coming in sight of Cape Frio [Cabo Frio, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] at 2pm about eight leagues away: 'great flocks of birds with innumerable swarms of butterflies came to invite us to their coast'. Temperature 75°, water temperature 72°. A cool but pleasant evening. Heavy dew at night, temperature 63° at 4am
(26 Sep 1824) Sunday. A clear and pleasant but cool morning. A fine view of the high mountains of Cape Frio [Cabo Frio]. Temperature 75°, water temperature 72°. Seeing numerous seabirds, some very large. Rough sea in the afternoon. Seeing turtles, one of them weighing probably 250-300lbs, passing the ship: 'our attempts to take them were ineffectual'. 'The vessel on tack all day, wind being foul'
(27 Sep 1824) Monday. A pleasant morning with a light north-westerly wind. Temperature 76°, water temperature 73°. Calm during the night
(28 Sep 1824) Tuesday. A warm, pleasant morning, with light westerly and southerly winds. Entering the river at noon, anchoring at 2pm. Being visited by officers from the Custom House, Board of Health and police. Having to go on shore to visit the master of police, 'which all passengers have to do'. Temperature 84° at noon in the shade and 74° at 8pm
(29 Sep 1824) Wednesday. Going on shore in the evening for two hours with the captain [Henry Hanwell]. Visiting John Dickson [British Royal Navy surgeon in Brazil], a friend of Joseph Sabine and a Horticultural Society correspondent. Douglas being received 'with great kindness', and invited to stay at Dickson's house. Showing Dickson his instructions and explaining the purpose of his journey, and learning he had hosted 'the late Mr Forbes' [John Forbes, Horticultural Society plant collector, who died in Mozambique in 1823. For the papers of Forbes, 1821-1823, see RHS/Col/3] two years previously: 'the affectionate manner in which he spoke of him, of his disposition, of the amiable way he conducted himself during his residence, reflects much honour on his memory'. Dickson helping Douglas by 'sending his servants' and introducing Douglas to his friends. Being unable to make long journeys due to rains and uncertainty regarding the date of sailing
The approach to Rio [Rio de Janeiro] being 'particularly grand', the entrance to the bay or harbour about half a mile wide, with four or five wooded islands, one with a telegraph station. The land mountainous but not rugged, covered with forests to the summit, with luxurious palms. Seeing on the left Sugarloaf Mountain [Rio de Janeiro], a conical hill composed of 'primitive rock, not unlike the Aberdeen granite, with which the London streets are paved', a small fort at its base with a few guns, and a larger fort on the opposite side. The houses regularly built ('but of coarse workmanship'), with 'lofty' rooms and large doors, the windows generally not glazed, but closed by latticed shutters with hinges at the top. 'The only buildings worthy of notice' being churches, including the emperor's [Pedro I] private chapel and another Gothic church in the Palace Square, both 'neat and reflecting great credit on the architect'. Going to a service at the Gothic church at midnight: 'the gorgeous tapestry hung round the saints, the brilliancy of the lamps and candles, with the general neatness of the edifice, impress on the mind of a stranger a pleasing sensation'. The palace, constructed of 'plain rubble-work', surrounding the square on three sides: '[it] would only do for a potentate of America'
Meeting William Harrison [merchant in Brazil] of Liverpool, brother of Arnold Harrison of Aighburgh, a fellow of the Horticultural Society. Harrison being 'fond of plants and birds', having a fine garden about five miles from the town with a collection of African, European and indigenous plants. Harrison having introduced many plants to the Botanic Garden of Liverpool. Seeing on an old wall about 70 species of Epidendrum and Orchideae: 'only the branch or stump on which the plant originally grew was nailed on the wall without any earth, many of them were thriving luxuriantly'. Harrison having about 70 live birds in cages, mostly Brazilian and many beautiful. 'This gentleman showed me many civilities', saying many of his acquaintances were fellows of the Horticultural Society. Harrison giving Douglas a letter of introduction to his friends, Messrs McCulloch of St Barbara, New Albion [Messrs McCulloch and Hartnell, merchants in Santa Barbara, California, United States of America]: 'tokens of his friendship, which at all times I shall think on with pleasure. To have friends in such a remote spot of the globe is of great consequence'
Harrison introducing Douglas to Mrs Maria Graham [author and illustrator], a travel writer in Chile and Brazil and 'tutoress to the young princess [Graham tutored Princess Maria da Gloria of Brazil in 1824]': 'she is a lady of much information, of very amiable manners, and tolerably conversant in botany, of which she is fond, and some other branches of natural history'. Listening 'with delight' to her descriptions of the plants around Valparaiso and Juan Fernandez [Juan Fernandez Islands, Chile]
The vegetables in the market 'few in number and of bad quality', with Convolvulus batatas [Ipomoea batatas], yams (Dioscorea) [yam] ('both substitutes for potato') and two kinds of pepper. Orange, lemon and coconut being the only fruits. Seeing in Harrison's garden a fruit between an orange and a lemon, with shape and colour of lemon, but without the acidity, or the saccharine taste of orange: 'it might be an acquisition to have it'
Never having seen a place 'more inviting, and never laboured under greater disadvantages'. During Douglas's 12-day stay, only six days were fair, rendering many of the collected specimens useless, and having to dry them at sea with difficulty in a small vessel. Collecting two boxes of plants to send to England: 'this afterwards I thought as useless work, for they would arrive in England in the winter. On the other hand, I regretted to allow any opportunity to pass without endeavouring to fulfil the objects of the Society'. Harrison promising to send them, 'on one of the vessels employed by himself'. Taking with him the collection of about 200 species of dried plants. The specimens not quite dry, and Douglas unable to identify them 'for want of a book of general reference'
(8 Oct 1824) Writing to Joseph Sabine, Mr Munro [Donald Munro, gardener at the Horticultural Society of London], Mr Atkinson [William Atkinson] and his brother [John Douglas]. Preparing for sailing
(9 Oct 1824) Saturday. John Dickson giving Douglas £10 'on the Society to purchase several articles for the voyage and the country I was to visit. All these things were done for me by his people with his usual politeness'. Expecting the ship to sail the following day, Dickson inviting some friends for dinner including Mr Louden, the admiral's secretary, and Dr Scott, his physician: 'the good feeling and harmony that were shown by every guest at table among themselves and good wishes towards my welfare at parting was, I must confess, gratifying to me'. Leaving this 'agreeable society' at 8pm
On boarding the boat, heavy rain starting to fall, with thunder and lightning. Taking off his coat and vest to keep his specimens dry. Having difficulty finding the correct vessel in the harbour, the sh
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