Journal of Karl Theodor Hartweg
Information
Title - Journal of Karl Theodor Hartweg
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/7/2/1/1
Date - 13 Nov 1845-3 Jun 1848
Scope & content - Karl Theodor Hartweg's travel journal describes his full journey from his arrival in Mexico in 1845, his travels in Mexico in 1845-1846 and in California in 1846-1848, and his return journey via Guatemala and Nicaragua in 1848. For a partial copy of Hartweg's journal included within his correspondence, 7 Mar-Nov 1846, see RHS/Col/7/2/2/20
This volume is on loan from Aberystwyth University for 5 years from 2017
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-100: Narrative of journey, 13 Nov 1845-3 Jun 1848
Pages 101-176: Blank
Physical description: Bound in full green leather. Dimensions: 17 (h) x 11.5 (w) x 2 (d) cm. Conserved in 2017: the binding and pages were cleaned and repairs were carried out to both
The inside front covers contain printed labels ('90. Hartweg's journal of a in-8, cartonne', 'George Ernest John Powell. Nanteos, Aberystwith [George Powell, 1842-1882, was a collector, who lived on the estate of Nanteos in Aberystwyth, who donated his collections to the University of Aberystwyth]', 'Sold by G.J. Baynes, bookseller, Turnham Green', '79. Gronovius (Jacobus) Habraeos – 221 pa') and handwritten notes ('bought in the sale of the library of the Horticultural Society, No 293. May 3rd 1859' and 'MS 126', 'Mr Hartweg's Journal') [the journal was sold by the Horticultural Society in 1859]
Original pagination
Summary of contents:
(13 Nov 1845) Arriving at Vera Cruz [Veracruz, Mexico] after a 45-day passage on a Royal Mail steam packet [ship]
(14 Nov 1845) Leaving the ship. Hartweg delivering his letters of introduction and making arrangements with Messrs Manning & Mackintosh [agents of the Royal Mail steamers in Mexico] for forwarding his collections
(15 Nov 1845) Leaving Vera Cruz [Veracruz] for 'the sugar estate of Mirador', about three miles from Zacuapan [Zacualpan, Mexico]. Being 'warmly welcomed' by his old friend, Mr Sartorius [Carl Christian Sartorius, German botanist in Mexico], whom he had met when he first arrived in Mexico in December 1836 [for papers relating to Hartweg's first expedition, 1836-1843, see RHS/Col/7/1]. Fine views over the lowlands of Vera Cruz
Making an excursion to the colder district of Orizaba [Mexico], passing through a deep ravine to the village of Chicdequila[?], with only a short time available to spend there. Finding a Magnolia ('a large tree with oblong, shining leaves'), several species of oak, Garrya macrophylla [Garrya laurifolia subsp. macrophylla], Cobaea scandens and Tilia mexicana [Tilia americana var. mexicana] [here the list includes 6 more plants]
(29 Nov 1845) Arriving at Jalapa [Xalapa, Mexico]. Taking a diligence [stagecoach] to Mexico [Mexico City, Mexico]
(3 Dec 1845) Arriving at Mexico [Mexico City]. Delivering his letters of introduction
(5 Dec 1845) Leaving for the Hacienda de Laureles near Angangueo [Mexico], 'where seven years previously I found Achimenes patens & heterophylla [Achimenes heterophylla], the objects of the present journey'., Having difficulties in finding the roots and not being able to see any leaves, despite remembering the location he had found them in flower in September 1838: 'under these circumstances, I consider myself fortunate in having found roots of some species of Achimenes'
(13 Dec 1845) Saturday. Returning to Mexico [Mexico City]
(15 Dec 1845) Being 'obliged to be present in clearing my luggage at the Custom House'
(16 Dec 1845) Going to search for Abies hirtella [Abies religiosa], which Humboldt [Alexander von Humboldt, Prussian naturalist and explorer, who travelled in South America in 1799-1804] said was found at El Guarda, 'an insignificant military port on the road to Cuernavaca [Mexico]', 10 leagues [30 miles] from the capital, on a 'lofty' plain. Not seeing any silver firs apart from Abies religiosa in a small wood on a mountain to the south. Asking about other silver firs, but being able to learn 'nothing satisfactory'. Finding near Ajusco [Mexico] a new pine, possibly Loudon's [John Claudius Loudon, botanist] Pinus montezumae: 'it has the same glaucous appearance as the Pinus montezumae of the Society's garden', but with shorter leaves and more pointed cones, growing 40 feet high, resembling Pinus pinea
(17 Dec 1845) Returning to Mexico [Mexico City]
(18 Dec 1845) Visiting the British minister, Mr Bankhead [Charles Bankhead, British minister plenipotentiary to Mexico]. Being given letters of introduction from the Mexican government to the governors of Guadalajara [Mexico], Mazatlan [Mexico] and California [United States of America]
(19 Dec 1845) Taking the diligence [stagecoach] for Guadalajara [Mexico]
(25 Dec 1845) Arriving at Guadalajara after an 'uninteresting' journey: 'not a tree to be seen, safe [save] a few stunted Schinus molle and Operaitias[?]'
(28 Dec 1845) Leaving on horseback with Mr K., 'a young merchant' on his way to Mazatlan
(1 Jan 1846) Arriving at Tepic [Mexico] after five days of 'hard riding'. Deciding to wait for his luggage, after having been advised by his friends in Mexico and by Messrs Barron & Forbes [Eustace Barron and Alexander Forbes, mercantile agents in Mexico] ('to whom I have been warmly recommended by their friends in England') not to proceed to California without his luggage
The town situated on a plain about 3,000 feet above the sea level, with temperatures of 80° in the summer and 65°-70° in the winter. The highest point of a volcanic mountain range to the south-west called Cerro de San Juan [Mexico]. The mountains composed of 'crumbled pumice stone, which gives it a whitish appearance at a distance', and mainly covered with pines, including one resembling Pinus macrophylla, 60-80 feet high, with 'beautiful, long foliage' and cones 12-16 inches long. Another large Pinus called 'by the natives' ocote hembra ('female pine, in opposition to the first, which is named ocote colorado, or ocote macho, red or male pine'), with foliage 16 inches long and cones 4-5 inches long. The higher parts covered with oaks, an Arbutus, a white, flowering Ceanothus, Bouvardia splendens [Bouvardia ternifolia], Lobelia laxiflora and Macromeria exserta [here the list includes 8 more plants]
(8 Jan 1846) Crossing the plain to the east. Arriving at the forest of Morte de los Quartos[?] after a six-hour ride. The forest mainly oaks, with some pines. The only plant in flower Lupinus ehrenbergii [Lupinus mexicanus], growing on the banks and in the dried-up bed of a rivulet crossing the mountain, and Littaea geminiflora [identification unresolved as at Jun 2019] ('with a flower stem 12-18 feet long, bent down by the weight of its numerous seedpods'). Arriving at the village of Ocotillo in the evening
(9 Jan 1846) Reaching the hamlet of Ausita[?]at noon at the foot of Tetitlan[?] volcano. Finding 'with difficulty' a guide to the mountain and preparing the necessities ('including a calabash with water'). Reaching the volcano before sunset and camping in a 'beautiful pine forest'
(10 Jan 1846) Leaving his horses with his servant and ascending the mountain with his guide, 'who, being armed with a machete (a kind of long knife), cleared a path among the brushwood and long grass that encumbered our way'. Ascending for four hours through a forest composed of pines, a few oaks, Mimosa, a Laurus, Garrya laurifolia and a Fraxinus. Arriving at the 'ledge of the volcanic mass, destitute of all vegetation', with no visible crater. The volcano located about 6,000 feet above sea level, and 'centuries must have passed since it was in activity; no tradition exists when it first broke out'. Returning to the encampment in two hours. Reaching the farm of La Estancia in the evening
(12 Jan 1846) Returning to Tepic
(16 Jan 1846) Finishing writing letters to England. Intending to set out on an excursion to the south, but being prevented by heavy rain, despite the dry season. The rains called aguas nieves, 'snowy rains [sleet]: they are not accompanied by thunder, but continue for several days without intermission'
(20 Jan 1846) The weather having cleared, 'sallied forth on horseback' with a servant 'hired for the occasion'. Crossing the plain of Tepic to the south. After an easy four-hour ride, entering a ravine with a meandering stream: 'the vegetation here assumes a tropical character'. Collecting plants including Cattleya, Stanhopea, Mormodes, Catasetum and Epidendrum, but none of them in flower
Arriving in the evening at Compostela [Mexico], said to be the oldest town in the state of Jalisco: 'judging from its dilapidated appearance, tradition seems not to be at fault'
(21 Jan 1846) Crossing the plain of San Jose del Conde [unidentified], a 'rich pasture' for cattle. Descending to the river of Huilotitlan [unidentified] in a ravine about 800-1,000 feet below the plain: 'the perpendicular sides present no facilities of a road being made there. We therefore had to pass up the ravine, fording the river eight times, which owing to the late rains was nearly impracticable, as the water reached up to our saddles'. The vegetation offering 'little interesting' during this season, with mainly deciduous, leafless shrubs, 'only relieved by a giant Cereus forming a singular tree', with a stem 18 inches in diameter and 2-4 feet in height, its numerous angular branches rising 20-30 feet high: 'in May it yields a delicious fruit called pitaya, which is much sought after by the natives'. Arriving at the small village of Matanejo in the evening
(22 Jan 1846) Leaving Matanejo early in the morning. Collecting plants in an oak forest, including two species of Epidendrum, Oncidium, Odontoglossum and Epiphyllum ('like E. ackermannii [Disocactus ackermannii], inhabiting trees [...] judging from its broad, deeply cut leaves, or rather stems, it will prove a valuable acquisition to that interesting tribe of plants'). The white timber of the oak not appearing very durable, rotting quickly when exposed to the weather and even the healthy trees appearing usually to be hollow in the centre
(25 Jan 1846) Returning to Tepic, 'not seeing any prospect of finding anything to warrant my proceeding farther in this direction'
(26 Jan 1846) The aguas nieves setting in again and continuing until 29 Jan
(29 Jan-6 Feb 1846) Making some excursions on foot in the vicinity of Tepic, but 'without finding much worth noticing'
(7 Feb 1846) Setting out for San Blas [Mexico] with his servant. Arriving in the evening at the farm of La Manuela, in a wood composed of Acacia, Prosopis, Laurus, palm, cedar and several species of Ficus: 'among the latter there is one sending forth roots, which descend in to the earth, giving support and nourishment to the numerous far-spreading branches, or sometimes encircling a palm with its stem, thus presenting the singular deception of palm leaves growing on the fig tree. It may be supposed the embrace in time proves fatal to the palm'. Seeing a species of Annona, probably Annona laevigata [identification unresolved as at Jun 2019] ('the native name is anona') with a fruit resembling cherimoyer [cherimoya], 'but bears no comparison with the latter as to quality', often cultivated in the warmer parts of Mexico
(8 Feb 1846) Arriving at San Blas. The country 'perfectly level' to the seashore and liable to flooding from Rio Grande de Santiago [Mexico], running into the sea by several outlets seven leagues [21 miles] above the town. Travelling for five leagues [15 miles] 'knee-deep in mud' due to a recent flood. Strolling on the beach and the surrounding saltmarshes, but deciding that he 'need not look for any novelties there'. 'Incessant' rain
(9 Feb 1846) Returning to Tepic via Camino de Aguas, a shorter and rockier route, passable even in the rainy season. Copying observations on the amount of rain in Tepic, Jun 1845-Mar 1846 by Mr Alexander Forbes [merchant and explorer in Mexico], the rainfall varying between 0.5 and 12.8 inches within a month, with the total of 48.1 inches of rain within those nine months, 'above the average in ordinary seasons'. The rainy season lasting from mid-June to the end of September
(23 Feb 1846) Returning from an excursion to Rio Grande de Santiago, the largest river in central Mexico, running for over 600 miles north-west from the swampy plains by the towns of Lerma [Mexico] and Tolucca [Toluca, Mexico] near Mexico City. The level of the water rising due to the rain 14 feet above the ordinary levels, destroying the early crops of Indian corn [flint corn], and 'carrying everything before it that impeded its course'. The vegetation similar to that near San Blas, and not finding many plants. Collecting an Epidendrum, an Oncidium and another orchidaceous plant growing on palms and resembling Catasetum, but with a branched flower stem, 8-10 inches long, growing from the apex of the pseudobulbs
(7 Mar 1846) Dispatching a tin case of seeds collected in Tepic and Guadalajara to be forwarded by diligence [stagecoach] to Vera Cruz [Veracruz]
(9 Mar 1846) Dispatching two chests of Orchidaceae and pine cones to Tampico [Mexico]. Luggage arriving from Mexico City [Mexico], having been detained for a month due to no transport and a change in the government: 'on such occasions the muleteers contrive to keep out of the way from fear of having their mules embargoed or losing them altogether'
(14 Mar 1846) Leaving Tepic for San Blas ('whither my luggage had preceded me')
(15 Mar 1846) Embarking on board a small schooner for Mazatlan [Mexico], the 'most important port' on the western coast of Mexico, due to the 'more accommodating' Custom House than San Blas or Acapulco [Mexico]. Enquiring after merchant vessels for northern California, but discovering there had been none for six months and none likely in the near future. Applying ('backed by a letter of introduction from some influential house in Mazatlan') to Commodore Sloat [John D. Sloat, captain in the United States Navy, who claimed California for the United States in July 1846] for a passage on a United States ship, Portsmouth, due to sail in a few days for Monterey [California], but being refused due to the unsettled circumstances between the United States and Mexico and the captain wishing to keep the ship's destination secret ('a circumstance well known three weeks before she sailed')
(May 1846) Applying for passage at the beginning of May to Rear Admiral Sir George Seymour [British Royal Navy officer] of HMS Collingwood. Seymour promising Hartweg a passage on HMS Juno
(11 May 1846) Boarding HMS Juno for Monterey and sailing the following morning
(7 Jun 1846) Arriving at Monterey after a journey of 26 days
(8-9 Jun 1846) Delivering letters of introduction and settling in the 'quiet little town' of Monterey, surrounded by green fields and pine-covered mountains, in contrast to the 'dried-up vegetation' around Mazatlan
The predominant trees an evergreen oak (Quercus californica [Quercus kelloggii]) with a globular crown and 'distorted' branches, growing to 30 feet high in low, dry locations, and Pinus insignis [Pinus radiata] growing to 60-100 feet high in the higher parts, with a stem 2-4 feet in diameter. Varyingly sized leaves and cones depending on the location, the leaves growing to 4 ½-5 ½ inches and the cones 4-4 ½ inches in close woods, but remaining smaller closer to the seashore, where the trees grow one-sided, 'a defect caused by north-west winds'. The differences ('too insignificant to establish them even as varieties') in Pinus insignis leading to the tree being variously known as Pinus tuberculata and Pinus radiata, collected according to Loudon [John Claudius Loudon] by the 'late Dr Coulter [Thomas Coulter, botanist and explorer, who collected plants in Mexico and California in 1820s and 1830s]' near the seashore in Monterey, probably in Point Pinos [California]. Seeing on Point Pinos the cones growing in pendulous clusters of three or four and remaining on the trees for several years after shedding their seeds, their apex somewhat 'deformed, that is the scales on one side are more developed than on the other', ripening in about 18-24 months
Seeing on the dry banks of ravines north-east of the town the Californian horse chestnut (Pavia californica [?Aesculus californica]), an 'extremely ornamental shrub', growing up to 25 feet high in a 'globular' shape, with an abundance of fragrant white and pink flowers on spikes 12 inches long ('which I had the curiosity to count [and one] had more than four hundred open flowers and buds upon it'). Collecting other shrubs including Ceanothus thyrsiflorus growing in the pine woods 10-15 feet high, Sambucus[?] ('No 28'), Lonicera racemosa [Symphoria racemosa], Spiraea ariifolia [?Holodiscus dumosus or Holodiscus discolor] and Caprifolium douglasii [unidentified] [here the list includes 13 more plants]. Collecting other annual and perennial plants, including Hugelia ('No 5'), Delphinium ('No 24, 26, 61'), Leptosiphon androsaceus [Linanthus androsaceus], Collinsia bicolor [?Collinsia verna or Collinsia heterophylla] and Malva ('No 25') [here the list includes 8 more plants]. Collecting bulbs including Calochortus luteus, Cyclobothra alba [Calochortus albus], Brodiaea congesta [Dichelostemma congestum], Calliprora flava [Triteleia ixioides], Hesperoscordum lacteum [Triteleia hyacinthina] and a Zygadenus called 'amote' ('of which the bruised roots serve as substitute for soap')
(22 Jun 1846) Leaving Monterey for the Santa Cruz Mission [Santa Cruz, California] across the bay, with 'an American gentleman, who obligingly furnished me with a horse for the occasion', the journey by land 60 miles, and by water 25 miles. Travelling along the seashore over the plain and arriving at the mission in the afternoon 'after a gallop of seven hours: this speed is the usual mode of Californian travelling', with horses driven ahead for longer journeys
Seeing wooded mountains with Taxodium sempervirens [Sequoia sempervirens], called by the American settlers 'redwood' or 'bastard cedar', and growing to an 'enormous size', with the average height of 200 feet and a trunk 6-8 feet in diameter ('straight as an arrow'). Seeing a tree known as 'the giant of the forest', 270 feet high with the circumference of the stem 55 feet and reddish, smooth bark 6-12 inches thick. The timber a 'beautiful' red ('like pencilwood'), close-grained, light and brittle, 'well-adapted for in- and outdoor work, as the boards when seasoned, do not warp, nor is it attacked by insects'. The timber frequently exported to the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii, United States of America], 1,000 feet of 1-inch boards being worth £8
Seeing some 'fine' trees of Abies douglasii [Pseudotsuga menziesii] on the mountains, scattered among the redwood. Seeing other trees, including mountain oak ('No 84, ?Castanea chrysophylla ['chrysophylla' crossed out] [Chrysolepsis chrysophylla]'), growing in shady woods in a 'pyramidal' shape 50 feet high with lanceolate, serrated leaves covered on the underside with a yellowish down, fructiferous catkins, and nuts or acorns, initially covered with down and enclosed in an open cup covered with coarse, scaly hairs: 'some Indian tribes eat the acorns either new, or make a sort of bread of them'
Seeing on the outskirts of the woods Arbutus procera [Arbutus menziesii], growing 50 feet high with linear, light green leaves, two species of Ceanothus, Corylus ('No 85'), Spiraea and Zauschneria with scarlet flowers ('No 87') [here the list includes 8 more plants]
(2 Jul 1846) Returning to Monterey on board an American bark [barque], the journey lasting for four hours. Finding that Commodore Sloat [John D. Sloat] had arrived in the Savannah accompanied by two sloops [single mast sailing boat] of war
(7 Jul 1846) The American commodore landing a party of 'marines and seamen' and hoisting the American flag, due to a 'rupture' between the United States and Mexico near Matamoros [Mexico], resulting in the defeat of the Mexicans. General Castro [Jose Antonio Castro, Californio politican, commanding general of Mexican forces in Las Californias during the Mexican-American War, 1846-1848], in command of Monterey, 'had previously gone to the north, where a party of American backwoodsmen had hoisted the flag of independence, i.e. a grizzly bear looking up at one star [the Bear Flag is the official flag of California, first used in Jun 1846 in Sonoma as part of a rebellion declaring California as independent California Republic; three weeks later, California was declared part of United States]. These adventurers, who were indirectly acting for the United States government, and supplied with arms and ammunition from the US Ship Portsmouth lying at San Francisco [California], surprised the little town of Sonoma and made General Vallejo [Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, Californio politician, commanding general of Alta California] and several others prisoners. General Castro remained quietly at San Jose [San Jose, California] until Captain Fremont [John Charles Fremont, major in the army of the United States], with his hardy mountaineers marched towards him, when he went to the south, probably to Santa Barbara [California] to join his force with that of the governor Pio Pico [Pio de Jesus Pico, Californio politican, governor of Alta California], thus leaving one half of Upper California [Alta California] undefended, in the possession of the Americans'
Fields and woods, previously covered with flowers, drying due to the lack of rain during the summer months, and even the bulbous plants shedding their flowers and ripening their seeds
Not succeeding in finding horses, Castro having taken all available horses for the use of his army, intending to march against the Americans. Not being able to venture far from Monterey due to safety concerns: 'I might fall in with a party of country people, who could not be persuaded that a person would come all the way from London to look after seeds, which in their opinion are not worth picking up, but might suppose that I have some political object in view'
Walking to Carmel Bay [California], an easy two-hour walk over wooded hills. Finding a Diervilla ('No 47'), Cupressus macrocarpa ('No 143', growing 60 feet high with a stem nine feet in circumference, its branches far-spreading and flat at the top like cedar of Lebanon), Eschscholzia crocea [Eschscholzia californica], Abronia rosea [Abronia umbellata] and Abronia mellifera ('No 92 & 93. These two species, the former with pink and the latter with orange flowers, are spreading on the sands near the seashore, and delightfully scent the air with their perfume towards evenings') [here the list includes 7 more plants]
Making another excursion to Rancho de Tularcitos, via the mission of Carmel [Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo, Carmel-by-the-sea, California]: 'this, like all other missions in California since their breaking up in 1836 [the Mexican secularization act of 1833 aimed to reduce the Spanish influence in California by distributing land owned by the Spanish Roman Catholic establishments to the native inhabitants previously under the missionary rule, although in practice most of the land became the property of Spanish and Mexican rancheros], are in a sad state of neglect. The buildings are fast falling to ruins, and the lands nearly in the same wilderness as the first settlers found them. The Indians who were employed by the friars as labourers, and held in a state of slavery, were then thrown upon their own means for subsistence. The greater part went to the Tular Valley [Tulare, California], from whence they commit their depredations upon the property of the white settlers, chiefly carrying of herds of horses, which form their principal food'
Following the narrow valley of the Carmel River [California] and entering a 'beautiful' wood composed of alders, willows and plane trees, some growing 80 feet high. Seeing herbaceous plants and shrubs including two species of Solidago ('No 118 & 119'), an unnamed plant ('No 120, with an extremely powerful smell, which, if inhaled in excess, produces bleeding of the nose'), a 'half-climbing' Caprifolium ('with small, dingy, yellow flowers'), Clematis ('No 121') and Berberis aquifolium growing on rocky grounds [here the list includes 4 more plants]. Seeing on the high mountains oaks and Pinus macrocarpa [Pinus coulteri], growing 80-100 feet high with a 6-8 feet wide stem. Collecting cones of the smaller trees with 20-30 years' growth, the larger ones not yet ripened
Returning via the mountain of El Toro [California], destitute of trees or shrubs, but thickly covered with wild oats (Avena). Finding in a ravine some small trees of Pinus sabiniana, growing 8-30 feet high: 'in this situation they appear to produce their cones when yet very young', the cones ripening around November
(23 Aug 1846) Being invited by Don Jose Antonio Aguirre [also known as Don Antonio, Spanish merchant and rancher in Alta California] for a trip on board the bark Joven Guipuzoana to San Francisco Bay. Intending to visit the valley of Sacramento River [California], hoping to be able to procure horses for riding back to Monterey
(24 Aug 1846) Anchoring off Santa Cruz. Making an excursion to the mountains. Passing through a copse wood composed of Pavia californica [?Aesculus californica], Quercus californica [Quercus kelloggii], Ceanothus thyrsiflorus, Corylus ('No 85') and Rhus viride[?] ('called yedra, and justly dreaded by the inhabitants for its poisonous properties')
Entering a 'beautiful' pine forest, the leaves of the pines in threes, growing to 11 inches long, longer than the reddish-brown cones, with scales terminating in a small, sharp point. The trees growing to 100 feet high, with stems 3-4 feet in diameter. The cones, growing in clusters of three or four, ripening in September, about eight or nine months from flowering. Naming the apparently new species of pine after the secretary of the Society, George Bentham, as Pinus benthamiana [Pinus ponderosa]
Finding another species of pine, 'probably the doubtful and little known Pinus californica [Pinus attenuata]', growing slowly to no higher than 25 feet, with leaves 4 ½ inches long, in bundles of threes and cones, light brown in colour, turning to silvery grey, and only produced on the main stem, about 5 inches long with curved outer surface, the seeds on the outer surface more developed
(28 Aug 1846) Continuing for Yerba Buena [San Francisco] on the bark. Encountering a strong north-westerly gale off Cape Ano Nuevo [Point Ano Nuevo, California], tearing some of the sails. Having to return to repair the sails
(30 Aug 1846) Sailing again with strong winds and currents. The coast destitute of trees or shrubs, except on Point Ano Nuevo, with some pines or cypresses
(2 Sep 1846) Opposite the 'narrow, but safe' entrance to San Francisco Bay, a large inland sea divided into several branches, the principal port in California and the largest and safest port on the western coast. Anchoring off the small town of Yerba Buena [San Francisco] ('[the town] rising rapidly in importance')
Having trouble in the customs with two Wardian cases supplied by the Society, which had been shipped from London to the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii] and then to Yerba Buena [San Francisco], 'under the Mexican government' but without details of their contents or ownership: 'some miscreant thinking he might profit by the occasion, denounced them as containing contraband goods', but on inspection at the Custom House, 'instead of silk stockings and printed calicoes, they found two small greenhouses, some kitchen garden seeds, nails &c'. Without paperwork to proof [prove] his ownership, sending a petition to the captain of the port, proving the property before a magistrate before receiving his boxes, 'after a good deal of running to and fro'
The vegetation around Yerba Buena 'poor', the surrounding sand hills thinly covered with brushwood of oak (Quercus californica [Quercus kelloggii]), Ceanothus thyrsiflorus, Rhus, Prunus 'toyon' [Heteromeles arbutifolia] ('No 102') and Baccharis[?] ('No 123')
(10 Sep 1846) Going across the bay to Sausalito [California] with Don Antonio [Don Jose Antonio Aguirre] and Captain C., on their way to their farms on the northern side of the bay
Being joined at the mission of San Rafael by General Vallejo [Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo], 'who brought the intelligence that twelve hundred Wallawalla [Walla Walla] Indians from Oregon had arrived in the Sacramento Valley, and sent a message to Sutter's Fort [California], demanding the cattle due to them, and that the person of a Mr Cook [Grove Cook, American settler] be given up to them unconditionally. This affair arose from a quarrel about a mule in the autumn of 1844'. Relating an incident involving the Wallawalla, trading 'leather pantaloons, buffalo robes and elk skins for cattle' and Mr Cook ('an American') spotting a mule he had previously lost among the horses, being threatened by the chief Elijah [Elijah Hedding, also known as Toayahnu, son of a Walla Walla chief]: 'the following day, being Sunday, the Indians came to church at the fort. After service, Elijah was invited into another apartment, and while talking with another chief about things alleged against them by the river Indians, Cook observed 'yesterday you were going to shoot me, now you must die', at the same time drawing a pistol. The young chief, who had been brought up at a Methodist mission, and had learned to read, write and to speak the English language fluently, said deliberately 'let me pray a little first', and, kneeling down, commenced, and while invoking the divine mercy was shot through the heart upon the spot. The Indians immediately moved their camp, and leaving the cattle they had bartered for behind them, returned home. In consequence of their arrival now, when their intentions of avenging themselves were but too well known, the Americans concentrated their naval forces in the bay of San Francisco. Captain Fremont [John Charles Fremont] with his mounted rifle corps returned from the south, volunteers and the landed proprietors were called out, and sent up to the river Sacramento, to keep the depredations of the Wallawallas in check'
Hartweg's companions having to proceed with General Vallejo to the small town of Sonoma, 'in order, as he said, to defend their country from the attacks of the Indians'. Hartweg following them, having no horse, guide 'or knowledge of the country'. The general embargoing a horse for Hartweg. Arriving at Sonoma in the evening after a ride of 48 miles 'under a broiling hot sun'
200 Wallawallas rumoured to be encamped 20 miles from Sutter's Fort, about 100 miles from Sonoma, with a further 1,000 people higher up in the valley. The town of Sonoma, consisting of a large square with a row of houses on two sides of the square, 'was put in a state of defence', guarded by a few marines and sailors from Yerba Buena [San Francisco]. The American and Californian volunteers sent away in parties of 30 men. Hartweg's two companions, 'being intimate friends, and one of them a near relation of the general, were retained in his staff'. Hartweg having to give up on his plans of visiting Sacramento Valley 'under these war-like circumstances'
Enjoying the hospitality of General Vallejo for three days before continuing with F. ('an Englishman', formerly a boatswain in the British Navy) to his farm at San Miguel, 30 miles away, 'where he is established with two of his countrymen in raising grain and rearing horses and cattle'. Now about 60 years old, 'as vigorous and healthy as a man of forty. Being an expert horseman, he occupies his time chiefly in breaking in horses'
The country around Sonoma and San Miguel level and 'capable of great agricultural improvements', with several species of oak thriving in the fine, black vegetable mould, growing in 'large, irregular clumps, giving the country the appearance of an immense park, enlivened by numerous herds of elk and antelope'. A ridge of mountains near San Miguel thinly scattered with oaks and some Abies douglasii [Pseudotsuga menziesii], but no other kinds of pine. Finding in the shaded dells Viburnum, Euonymus and a large-leaved Calycanthus
Continuing from San Miguel to Bodega [California], 'where the Russians a few years back had an establishment granted them by the Mexican government in order to supply their possessions in the north with wheat etc. When their term expired, it was purchased by Captain S., an American, who erected a steam sawmill there [Stephen Smith established a lumber mill or sawmill near Bodega in 1843, but the land including Bodega was purchased by John Augustus Sutter, also known as Johann August Suter]', timber supplied by redwood trees ('the most northern limit of this magnificent tree')
Returning to Sausalito via San Rafael [California], over a 'beautifully undulated prairie, destitute of water or trees'. Seeing numerous bands of coyotes ('a kind of a wild dog'), the size and colour of foxes: 'when observed, they scamper off without the range of a rifle ball, and then commence barking, as if in defiance'
(end of Sep 1846) Returning to Yerba Buena [San Francisco]. Learning that 'the Wallawalla affair had ended very differently from what the preparations had indicated. Instead of twelve hundred fighting Indians, there were but forty peaceable families, who only came to claim their due, and to exchange horses for cattle'
(7 Oct 1846) Returning to Monterey on the bark Joven Guipuzoana. Preparing for a trip to San Diego [California], the ship's next destination
Intending to return from San Diego by land before the rainy season, but having to change his plans due to an insurrection at Pueblo de los Angeles [Los Angeles, California] by a 'party of Californians against the American government', in which 30 'marines and seamen' garrisoned at the Pueblo were attacked on 24 Sep by Californians, capitulating after running out of supplies some days later 'on terms honourable to both parties'. The Californians gave the Americans horses and carts: 'they moreover allowed them a free passage with their arms and ammunition to the port of San Pedro [Los Angeles, California]', where they embarked on a merchant ship. The crew of the US frigate Savannah, '327 in number, with Captain Mervine [William Mervine, rear admiral in the United States Navy, captain of the Savannah]' landed on 7 Oct and marched towards the Pueblo, 'with the intention of retaking it. They however soon came in sight of double their number of Californians, all well-mounted and having a small fieldpiece, a four-pounder, which soon decided in favour of its possessors', the Americans retreated after seven of their number having been 'killed and wounded'. Rumours of the success of the Californians spreading, the Mexican flag was hoisted 'in all the ports and towns south of Monterey', and American soldiers forced to capitulate or retreat. 'Serious apprehensions were entertained of an attack from the Californians on Monterey. The timely arrival, however, of Colonel Fremont [John Charles Fremont] with 200 riflemen on the 25 of October, dispelled all fear of the attach that had been contemplated for some time'
(Nov 1846) The rainy season setting in, the rain and thunder continuing until the end of March, with the heaviest rainfall in January and February. El Toro, east of Monterey, being briefly covered with snow. Frosty mornings following the rainy days, but the cold not sufficient to freeze water. Temperature in Monterey 62°-65° during the summer, and 50°-55° now during the day
(Jan 1847) 'Unusually severe' rains flooding Salinas River [California] and other rivers. Seeing first indications of spring with the flowering of Garrya elliptica, Berberis aquifolium, Ribes speciosum, Ribes malvaceum and Arctostaphylos [here the list includes 3 more plants]
Continuing his 'rambles' on foot in the mountains of Monterey, weather permitting. Discovering on the western declivity near the seashore a possibly new species of pine, with two leaves in a sheath 3-5 inches long and oval cones 3 inches long growing in clusters of four to seven, changing from reddish brown to light brown when ripe, with 'pyramidal' scales. The trees growing to about 20 feet, with a stem of 12 inches in diameter, growing surrounded by Pinus insignis [Pinus radiata] on an area of half a square mile, thriving in 'coarsely decomposed granite'. Naming the tree Pinus edgariana [Pinus muricata], after Thomas Edgar, the Society's treasurer
Seeing in the same location a cypress (Cupressus, No 166), possibly a variety of Cuprissus macrocarpa, but with smaller cones, growing 6-10 feet high. Returning via thick brushwood of Arctostaphylos and Ceanothus growing on a steep declivity in a shaded dell. Finding a Rhododendron 5 feet high, without seeds or flowers, and the evergreen chestnut, Castanea chrysophylla [Chrysolepis chrysophylla] (annotated by Hartweg: 'what has been called so above is a different species of Castanea'), a shrub 3-8 feet high shaped like a pyramid with lanceolate leaves, green above and golden yellow below. Hoping to be able to introduce it to London, judging it able to survive the English winters, 'since it is known from experience, that Ceanothus thyrsiflorus, with which it grows, is of that degree of hardiness'
(Feb 1847) More plants appearing, including Dodecatheon ('No 170), Fragaria vesca, Cardamine ('No 174, No 175'), Viola ('176') and Saxifraga ('178') [here the list includes 3 more plants]. Seeing in the sandy plains near Salinas River Viola chrysantha [Viola toroensis] ('large, golden-flowered'), Nemophila insignis [Nemophila menziesii subsp. insignis], Escholtzia crocea [Eschscholzia californica] and Escholtzia californica
His instructions restricting his travels in California to one year, with another year in northern Mexico: 'until I receive orders to the contrary, that I can stay the whole term of two years in California, I resolved, in the absence of new instructions from the Council of the Society, not to proceed to northern Mexico, where during the war with the United States my peaceful occupation might be disturbed, and my personal safety endangered, but to remain another season in California', not having been able to make all the excursions he had intended due to his late arrival: 'the next step to be considered is, whither can I proceed to follow my occupation, with satisfaction to my employers and myself?'
The political situation in California uncertain, the country having been occupied by 'an American force, much against the goodwill of the Californians, who quietly submitted to it at the time. Soon, however, their patriotism showed itself, they declared themselves independent, and fought, until, overwhelmed by a superior force, submitted again'. Worrying about possible disturbances affecting his plans. Deciding to visit the Sacramento Valley, 'where the settlers are all foreigners, and where I need not be under any apprehensions of disturbances'
(8 Mar 1847) Embarking on Tasso, an American bark. Arriving at Yerba Buena [San Francisco] after five days. The bark being detained for a few days, enabling Hartweg to collect plants including ('among other, less interesting plants') a white Myosotis ('No 190'), Liliaceae ('No 192'), Oenothera ('No 194'), a scarlet Aquilegia ('No 198'), Iris ('No 204') and Ribes echinatum [Limnobotrya echinata] ('common on the sand hills that surround the town')
(23 Mar 1847) Embarking on a small launch with Mr Cordua [Theodore Cordua, German settler and merchant], on his way to his farm in Sacramento Valley. Cordua inviting Hartweg to use his house as his headquarters, 'an invitation which I gladly accepted, as from his long residence in the country, and the situation of his farm in the centre of the valley, I anticipated many happy results'
(24 Mar 1847) Arriving at Corte de Madera, 'which, as the name implies, is a wood-cutting establishment, where Mr Cordua [Theodore Cordua] had some business to transact'. During a 'half an hour's ramble' in a redwood grove finding a small, brown flowering Martagon [Lilium] ('No 218'), Boraginaceae ('No 217') and Equisetum ('No 219'). Continuing the journey in the evening
(25 Mar 1847) Passing through Carquinez Strait [California] into Suisun Bay [California] and arriving at Sacramento River in the afternoon. The country flat, 'a boundless field of rushes as far as the eye can reach', with a mountain ridge on each side covered with snow after the harsh winter. The lowlands liable to flooding in the spring months. Trees only growing on the riverbanks, higher than the rush fields due to the accumulation of soil during the floods, including oak, willow, poplar, Negundo californicum [Acer negundo subsp. californicum] and a dwarf birch [here the list includes 5 more trees]
(31 Mar 1847) Arriving at Fort Sacramento [Sutter's Fort] after a 'tedious' and difficult journey against a strong current. Disembarking at the mouth of the American Fork [American River, California] after the launch nearly capsized, and continuing on foot along the river for about six miles with Theodore Cordua
(1 Apr 1847) Procuring horses and after one and a half day's ride, arriving at Theodore Cordua's farm on the left bank of Sacramento River, at the junction of Yuba [Yuba River, California] and Feather River [California]
The vegetation in Upper Sacramento Valley being 'much earlier' than around San Francisco Bay, with oaks 'sending forth their young leaves and the prairies were teeming with flowers, among which I recognised many old acquaintances. It was delightful to behold the variety of colours over the extensive prairie', including Leptosiphon ('No 205', 'No 228'), Gilia tricolor, Gilia capitata, Oxyeira chrysanthemoides [unidentified] and Platystemon californicus [here the list includes 9 more flowers]
(13 Apr 1847) Leaving with Mr L. [unidentified] for his farm, 70 miles up the valley: 'Mr L. had been in the lower country, and came up thus far with his goods in a large canoe, and was now proceeding with them in waggons'. Crossing the deep and 80-yard broad Feather River and continuing along the river through a 'beautiful wood of evergreen and deciduous oaks'. Finding Leptosiphon ('No 232, with white, fragrant flowers'), Collinsia ('No 238') and Collinsia bicolor [?Collinsia verna or Collinsia heterophylla] ('invariably growing at the foot of large oaks')
Continuing across a prairie for 20 miles. Seeing 'immense fields' of Eschscholzia crocea [Eschscholzia californica], Eschscholzia californica and Ranunculus ('No 239'), producing a 'splendid effect' with Lupinus nanus, Delphinium ('No 205', 'No 236') and other plants [here the list includes 4 more plants]. Finding a small patch of 'the beautiful little' Leptosiphon aureus with golden flowers. The prairies in the valley divided by small rivers ('termed creeks by the American settlers') with oaks growing on their banks. Seeing other plants growing on the dry riverbeds, with seeds apparently carried down from the mountains during the rainy season, including Penstemon azureus ('No 255'), another Penstemon ('No 313'), Umbelliferae (No 257, 'with an aromatic taproot, held in respect among the Indians for its medicinal properties'), Clintonia elegans [Downingia elegans] ('in rather damp places'), Clintonia pulchella [Downingia pulchella] and Limnanthes alba ('No 315')
(16 Apr 1847) Arriving at the farm after four days' 'slow drive'. Being offered an opportunity to visit the mountains, 'which I embraced with pleasure, as from the hostile character of the mountain Indians towards the settlers, it was not deemed prudent for me to make an excursion in the direction, attended by a guide only'. Joining a party of settlers going to the mountains to 'examine the timber, and if possible, to find a site for a sawmill'
Camping under a large oak on the first night near Pine Creek, a small mountain rivulet. Finding Asagraea ('No 273'), Lychnis ('No 286'), Umbelliferae ('No 302'), Triteleia ('No 301, with a head of pink flowers, supported on a twining stem, five feet long') and Saxifrageae ('No 296') [here the list includes 3 more plants]
Ascending the mountains. Passing through a brushwood composed of Ceanothus ('No 285'). Resting shortly at the edge of a 'noble pine forest'. One of his companions shooting a deer and Hartweg collecting plants, including Viola ('No 287'), Erythronium ('No 288'), Prunus ('No 289'), Lilium ('No 294') and Cyclobothra [Calochortus] ('No 295'). The forest composed mainly of Pinus benthamiana [Pinus ponderosa], with some Pinus lambertiana, Abies nobilis [?Abies alba or Abies procera] and a species of Thuja. The only other plants Ceanothus ('No 284') and Cornus florida ('No 297')
Returning through a steep ravine. Finding a shrubby Cercis ('No 282, with pink flowers'), Prunus ('No 283') and Cyclobothra ('No 295')
[end of Apr 1847] The 'carpet of flowers' on the prairies disappearing, and a 'yellow, sickly tinge pervades the whole. Such is the rapidity of vegetation under the cloudless sky of a tropical sun'. The bulbous plants appearing, including Triteleia laxa, growing on the open prairie as well as in the shaded, damp lowlands. Finding a pure white variety: 'it is however by no means common'. Other bulbous plants include Calochortus ('No 306') including a 'whitish' variety, Brodiaea congesta [Dichelostemma congestum], other species of Brodiaea and Liliaceae ('No 250', 'No 300')
(beginning of May 1847) Collecting seeds, 'being now aware of the rapidity of Californian vegetation', and returning to his headquarters at the beginning of May: 'most kinds had, during the fortnight I first saw them in flower, ripened their seeds, and it was with difficulty I found a few grains of the beautiful little Leptosiphon aureus, and similar plants, which between their taller neighbours had almost become invisible'
Making an excursion to the Butes [Sutter Buttes, California], a group of mountains between Sacramento River and Feather River. Finding plants including Campanulaceae ('No 316', 'No 317'), Trifolium ('No 331'), Clarkia elegans [?Clarkia pulchella or Clarkia unguiculata], Lupinus densiflorus and Umbelliferae ('No 339, called yerba de la vivora. The leaves and stem of which are universally used with success against the bite of rattlesnakes') [here the list includes 8 more plants]. The summit offering a beautiful view of Sacramento Valley, the lower country having formed an 'immense lake' from the melting snow and consequent flooding
Making another excursion to the mountains. Riding for 15 miles along the bank of the Yuba River over the prairie, 'now parched up'. The lower parts covered with Ceanothus ('No 285'), some oaks and Pinus sabiniana. Finding along a small rivulet Mentha ('No 348'), Labiatae [Lamiaceae] ('No 352'), Stenactis ('No 353'), a shrubby Labiate ('No 355, with large, white flowers') and Collinsia tinctoria ('No 354. This new species of Collinsia is of stronger growth, though less striking than C. bicolor [?Collinsia verna or Collinsia heterophylla]', growing on the dry, sandy bed and banks of the rivulet, its flowers yellowish, mottled with purple. Returning later to the same location to search for seeds of Collinsia tinctoria, and having his hands stained yellow from the glandular hairs covering the seedpods, 'from which circumstance I named it Collinsia tinctoria'). Finding Nemophila speciosa [identification unresolved as at Jun 2019], with white petals, 'one third of which is tipped with purple', growing near rivulets or in damp, shaded places: 'if the few seeds I procured should vegetate, it will prove a great acquisition to that handsome genus'
The higher parts of the mountains not as accessible as on his previous visit, and being unable to proceed from the steep banks and overflown Yuba River
(beginning of Jun 1847) Setting out with Theodore Cordua and 'an Indian' to visit the snowy mountains, 'generally termed by emigrants from the United States the California mountains'. Crossing Yuba River, crossing the prairie and reaching the mountains near Bear Creek [unidentified]. Camping in a grove of Pinus sabiniana and oaks. The vegetation similar to the banks of Yuba River, including the common Calochortus ('No 306'), the white variety more common than the yellow
Continuing the journey early in the morning. Passing through an 'interminable' wood composed of Pinus sabiniana and oaks. Seeing a 'pretty little' Allium with purple flowers ('No 357), Asarum ('No 364'), Viola ('No 365', 'No 366'), 'Polemonium?' ('No 382'), Hosackia bicolor [Hosackia pinnata], Mimulus bicolor and another species of Mimulus ('the two last luxuriating in the sandy bed of dried-up rivulets')
Gradually ascending the mountains and seeing Pinus benthamiana [Pinus ponderosa], 'which seems to be the characteristic of the upper region'. Some of the trees growing to an 'enormous size', with the largest measured 28 feet in circumference and 220 feet high. Scattered among the Pinus benthamiana, seeing large Pinus lambertiana and Thuja ('No 402'), growing to 130 feet high. Not seeing many plants, the main ones including several species of Cyclobothra [Calochortus] ('No 370-372'), Calliprora ('No 384'), Iris ('No 372'), Cyrus floridae[?] ('No 387') and Taxus ('No 401') [here the list includes 5 more plants]
Reaching Bear Valley on the fourth day, a 'beautiful little mountain valley, surrounded by a lofty ridge of mountains' with Pinus benthamiana growing on them. The north side of the valley covered with snow, but seeing on the southern side some spring flowers, including Paeonia californica] ('with brown petals edged with orange'), Compositae ('No 398'), Ranunculus ('No 363'), Corydalis ('No 362') and Nicotiana ('No 367'). Seeing a new species of pine ('No 413') in the valley, but finding only two trees 'of dwarf growth, probably stragglers from a more northern latitude', with leaves 3 inches long in pairs and cones 2 inches long: 'in general appearance the tree is not unlike a young Scotch fir. The cones at the time of my visit were open, and the seeds had fallen out'
The upper end of the valley 'bounded by a mass of granite, terminating in a precipice 800 feet in depth, below which the Yuba River is winding its way, appearing like a sheet of foam'. Collecting plants including Allium, Penstemon ('No 368'), Statice ('No 369'), Phlox ('No 380') and Calochortus. The higher parts above the valley covered with snow after the severe winter, 'for which reason we returned hence by the same road we came'
Going on another excursion to Upper Sacramento Valley to collect seeds he had not been able to collect previously
(30 Jun 1847) Packing up his collections, and sending some of them by water to San Francisco. Leaving for Monterey with an American guide. Arriving in the evening to the junction of Feather River and Sacramento River
(31 Jun 1847) Crossing the river swimming with their horses and their luggage in a canoe ('the distance from shore to shore being not less than three hundred yards'). Continuing across the prairie along the right bank of Sacramento River for two days
(2 Jul 1847) Crossing Sacramento River to the south side in a ferryboat at the Carquinez Strait
'A kind of tertian fever, accompanied by violent headache under which I had been suffering some days previous to my departure, here developed itself into a quotidian fever and ague, which for want of proper medicines, the constant exposure to a tropical sun during the day, and camping out at night, soon reduced me to such a state of debility as scarcely to be able to sit on horseback'
Continuing along San Francisco Bay to Pueblo of San Jose [San Jose]
(8 Jul 1847) Arriving at Monterey
Curing himself with the assistance of his 'little medicine chest'. Making excursions around Monterey. Collecting 'such kinds of seeds as I thought worth preserving'
(end of Jul 1847) Going to Santa Cruz to collect seeds. Visiting the farm of a family 'with whom I had become intimately acquainted during their winter residence in Monterey'. Falling ill again with 'fever and ague'
Finding evergreen chestnut with ripe fruit: 'this shrub, of which I had been most anxious to procure seeds, attains the height of ten feet, and is of a pyramidal form, the nuts which are produced in prickly clusters on the points of the young wood, are each enclosed in separate cells, and are of the same size and shape as the beechnut. The kernel is pleasant to eat, resembling the filbert [hazelnut] in flavour'
(13 Aug 1847) Returning to Monterey. Falling ill again, and not recovering until the beginning of September
(6 Sep 1847) Going to Santa Cruz to search for ripe pine cones. Finding cones of Abies douglasii [Pseudotsuga menziesii], Pinus californica [Pinus attenuata] and Pinus benthamiana [Pinus ponderosa], although the cones of the latter were unusually scarce and smaller than the previous year, having suffered from the late spring
(20 Sep 1847) Leaving Monterey for the south, 'which on account of the disturbed state of last year, I could not visit before'. Employing as a guide the same man, who had accompanied him on his last excursion to Santa Cruz, 'and who from his profession as a hunter was well acquainted with the intricate mountain paths'. Arriving at the mission of La Soledad [Mission Nuestra Senora de la Soledad, Soledad, California], 'an ill-constructed, half-ruined building' in the Salinas Valley [California] and camping by Salinas River near the mission
(21 Sep 1847) Continuing the journey on horseback at sunrise. Entering a mountain defile [narrow passage] leading to the mission of San Antonio [Mission San Antonio de Padua, Jolon, California]. Seeing a shrubby Arctostaphylos with large, brown seeds, a half-climbing Caprifolium ('No 133, profusely covered with scarlet berries'), an evergreen shrubby oak ('No 2, see list of Wardian cases') and a sub-deciduous oak ('No 7') growing 30 feet high
The high mountain range extending along the coast from San Antonio seeming barren, but being told that the western side covered with large pines. The lower region thinly covered with evergreen Californian oak [California live oak], Ceanothus, Cercocarpus, a small-leaved, shrubby Fraxinus and Pinus sabiniana with ripe cones. Seeing an evergreen shrubby Prunus, ('islay [Prunus ilicifolia]'), with leaves resembling holly and red fruit resembling cherry plum: 'the thin pulp which surround the proportionate [proportionately] large seed is sweet and pleasant to eat. The kernel, after being roasted and made into gruel is a favourite dish amongst the Indians'
Ascending the first ridge and passing through thickets of Arctostaphylos tomentosa and Ceanothus thyrsiflorus. Entering a forest of Pinus lambertiana, with the seeds already having fallen from the open cones. Picking a few seeds from the cones blown down from the trees
Descending the western side of the mountains. Finding the 'long-wished-for' Abies bracteata growing in the ravines: 'this remarkable fir attains the height of fifty feet, with a stem from twelve to fifteen feet in diameter, one third of which is clear of branches, and the remainder forming an elongated tapering pyramid, of which the upper part for three feet is productive of cones'. Finding to his disappointment that the cones had been damaged by frost: 'I was thus precluded all hope of introducing this remarkable fir into Europe'
Returning to San Antonio, finding it difficult to continue the journey to the south along the coast due to the numerous ravines. Crossing the mountain by the farm of El Riojo: 'a small pinewood, which became visible on our descent, extending along the beach, looked like an oasis in the desert, the dark green of the pines forming a beautiful contrast between the parched-up fields'. The wood composed of Pinus insignis [Pinus radiata] with cones larger but fewer than those in Monterey
Continuing along the seashore for nine miles before turning inland towards the mission of San Luis Obispo [Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, California]. Proceeding over a 'flat and uninteresting country' to the mission of Santa Ines [Mission Santa Ines, Solvang, California]. The route 'poorly wooded' with a few stunted oaks. Ascending to the mission of La Purisima [Mission La Purisima Concepcion, Lompoc, California], where the 'monotony of the bare hills was somewhat relieved by a small forest of Pinus edgariana [Pinus muricata]'
Hartweg had been told before leaving Monterey that 'a kind of thin-shelled pine nut is occasionally brought for sale by the Indians to Santa Ines and Santa Barbara [Mission Santa Barbara, California], without being able to learn any more respecting it'. Being told at Santa Ines that 'the Indians bring them from a great distance, [and] that the harvest of them was over, but that I might procure a few of [from] the Mission Indians'. Being shown a hut, and buying a gallon of fresh seeds. Being given two cones, 'when, judge my surprise, I recognised in them those of Pinus llaveana [Pinus cembroides], which I had on former occasions found in several parts of Mexico'
With no prospect of collecting more seeds towards the south, returning to San Luis Obispo, 'near which mission the late Dr Coulter [Thomas Coulter] gives the station of Pinus muricata, and which seemed to have escaped my notice when first passing through that place', but finding on the cuesta ('ascent') only Pinus macrocarpa [Pinus coulteri]
(18 Oct 1847) Arriving at Monterey
(25 Oct 1847) Leaving Monterey with his former guide to visit the San Antonio mountains [San Gabriel Mountains, California] by a different route. Following the coast over hills intersected by numerous deep ravines, but being unable to proceed after the third day over the steep mountains: 'the only object derived from this excursion were some very fine cones of Pinus macrocarpa [Pinus coulteri]', some 15 inches long growing on trees 30-40 feet high, on exposed locations 4,000 feet above the sea level
(beginning of Nov 1847) Returning to Monterey, the rainy season about to start. Preparing to return to Europe with his collections, but not being able to find a passage before February, due to 'the little traffic carried on between California and the western parts of Mexico or Central America'
(5 Feb [1848]) Embarking on the SS, a Hawaiian schooner, bound for Mazatlan and the coast of Central America
(17 Feb 1848) Arriving at Mazatlan, 'where I learned that it would be extremely hazardous to pass across Mexico with my collections during the present disturbed state of that country'. Continuing the journey after a few days on the SS to Iztapa [Guatemala]
(16 Mar 1848) Arriving at Iztapa
(17 Mar 1848) Landing with his collections and luggage. 'Easily' procuring mules for travelling to Guatemala [Guatemala City, Guatemala], 100 miles away
(20 Mar 1848) Arriving at Guatemala City accompanied by 'the supercargo, an American gentleman, who was proceeding to the United States. Half an hour's talk with my old friends, who were very glad to see me once more, convinced me of the necessity of retracing my steps to Iztapa, as the country is in a very unsettled state. The same party, who during my former stay in that country had raised Carrera [Rafael Carrera y Turcios, president of Guatemala 1844-1848 and 1851-1865] into power, were now opposed to him, and held possession of the road by which I ought to pass in order to reach the British settlement of Honduras [Belize]'
Returning to Iztapa with his companion. Embarking on board the SS for Realejo [El Realejo, Nicaragua]
(1 Apr 1848) Arriving at Realejo [El Realejo]
(5 Apr 1848) Leaving Realejo on horseback for Granada [Nicaragua] by the Lake Nicaragua [Nicaragua]. Hiring a cart drawn by oxen to transport his collections and luggage, 'which performed the distance of 150 miles in six days, whilst we arrived in four'. Embarking in a canoe in Granada and rowing along the northern shore. Arriving after three days' journey at the eastern end of the lake. Descending the San Juan River [Nicaragua]
(21 Apr 1848) Arriving at the settlement of San Juan de Nicaragua [Nicaragua]
(24 Apr 1848) Embarking on board the Severn, a West India steamer
(3 Jun 1848) Arriving at Southampton after a 'very fine passage'.
Extent - 1 volume
Repository - Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library
Copyright - Royal Horticultural Society
Credit Line - RHS Lindley Collections
Usage terms - Non-commercial use with attribution permitted (CC BY-NC 4.0)