Journal of Karl Theodor Hartweg
Information
Title - Journal of Karl Theodor Hartweg
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/7/2/1/1
Date - 13 Nov 1845-3 Jun 1848
Scope & content - Karl Theodor Hartweg's travel journal describes his full journey from his arrival in Mexico in 1845, his travels in Mexico in 1845-1846 and in California in 1846-1848, and his return journey via Guatemala and Nicaragua in 1848. For a partial copy of Hartweg's journal included within his correspondence, 7 Mar-Nov 1846, see RHS/Col/7/2/2/20
This volume is on loan from Aberystwyth University for 5 years from 2017
Overview of contents:
Pages 1-100: Narrative of journey, 13 Nov 1845-3 Jun 1848
Pages 101-176: Blank
Physical description: Bound in full green leather. Dimensions: 17 (h) x 11.5 (w) x 2 (d) cm. Conserved in 2017: the binding and pages were cleaned and repairs were carried out to both
The inside front covers contain printed labels ('90. Hartweg's journal of a in-8, cartonne', 'George Ernest John Powell. Nanteos, Aberystwith [George Powell, 1842-1882, was a collector, who lived on the estate of Nanteos in Aberystwyth, who donated his collections to the University of Aberystwyth]', 'Sold by G.J. Baynes, bookseller, Turnham Green', '79. Gronovius (Jacobus) Habraeos – 221 pa') and handwritten notes ('bought in the sale of the library of the Horticultural Society, No 293. May 3rd 1859' and 'MS 126', 'Mr Hartweg's Journal') [the journal was sold by the Horticultural Society in 1859]
Original pagination
Summary of contents:
(13 Nov 1845) Arriving at Vera Cruz [Veracruz, Mexico] after a 45-day passage on a Royal Mail steam packet [ship]
(14 Nov 1845) Leaving the ship. Hartweg delivering his letters of introduction and making arrangements with Messrs Manning & Mackintosh [agents of the Royal Mail steamers in Mexico] for forwarding his collections
(15 Nov 1845) Leaving Vera Cruz [Veracruz] for 'the sugar estate of Mirador', about three miles from Zacuapan [Zacualpan, Mexico]. Being 'warmly welcomed' by his old friend, Mr Sartorius [Carl Christian Sartorius, German botanist in Mexico], whom he had met when he first arrived in Mexico in December 1836 [for papers relating to Hartweg's first expedition, 1836-1843, see RHS/Col/7/1]. Fine views over the lowlands of Vera Cruz
Making an excursion to the colder district of Orizaba [Mexico], passing through a deep ravine to the village of Chicdequila[?], with only a short time available to spend there. Finding a Magnolia ('a large tree with oblong, shining leaves'), several species of oak, Garrya macrophylla [Garrya laurifolia subsp. macrophylla], Cobaea scandens and Tilia mexicana [Tilia americana var. mexicana] [here the list includes 6 more plants]
(29 Nov 1845) Arriving at Jalapa [Xalapa, Mexico]. Taking a diligence [stagecoach] to Mexico [Mexico City, Mexico]
(3 Dec 1845) Arriving at Mexico [Mexico City]. Delivering his letters of introduction
(5 Dec 1845) Leaving for the Hacienda de Laureles near Angangueo [Mexico], 'where seven years previously I found Achimenes patens & heterophylla [Achimenes heterophylla], the objects of the present journey'., Having difficulties in finding the roots and not being able to see any leaves, despite remembering the location he had found them in flower in September 1838: 'under these circumstances, I consider myself fortunate in having found roots of some species of Achimenes'
(13 Dec 1845) Saturday. Returning to Mexico [Mexico City]
(15 Dec 1845) Being 'obliged to be present in clearing my luggage at the Custom House'
(16 Dec 1845) Going to search for Abies hirtella [Abies religiosa], which Humboldt [Alexander von Humboldt, Prussian naturalist and explorer, who travelled in South America in 1799-1804] said was found at El Guarda, 'an insignificant military port on the road to Cuernavaca [Mexico]', 10 leagues [30 miles] from the capital, on a 'lofty' plain. Not seeing any silver firs apart from Abies religiosa in a small wood on a mountain to the south. Asking about other silver firs, but being able to learn 'nothing satisfactory'. Finding near Ajusco [Mexico] a new pine, possibly Loudon's [John Claudius Loudon, botanist] Pinus montezumae: 'it has the same glaucous appearance as the Pinus montezumae of the Society's garden', but with shorter leaves and more pointed cones, growing 40 feet high, resembling Pinus pinea
(17 Dec 1845) Returning to Mexico [Mexico City]
(18 Dec 1845) Visiting the British minister, Mr Bankhead [Charles Bankhead, British minister plenipotentiary to Mexico]. Being given letters of introduction from the Mexican government to the governors of Guadalajara [Mexico], Mazatlan [Mexico] and California [United States of America]
(19 Dec 1845) Taking the diligence [stagecoach] for Guadalajara [Mexico]
(25 Dec 1845) Arriving at Guadalajara after an 'uninteresting' journey: 'not a tree to be seen, safe [save] a few stunted Schinus molle and Operaitias[?]'
(28 Dec 1845) Leaving on horseback with Mr K., 'a young merchant' on his way to Mazatlan
(1 Jan 1846) Arriving at Tepic [Mexico] after five days of 'hard riding'. Deciding to wait for his luggage, after having been advised by his friends in Mexico and by Messrs Barron & Forbes [Eustace Barron and Alexander Forbes, mercantile agents in Mexico] ('to whom I have been warmly recommended by their friends in England') not to proceed to California without his luggage
The town situated on a plain about 3,000 feet above the sea level, with temperatures of 80° in the summer and 65°-70° in the winter. The highest point of a volcanic mountain range to the south-west called Cerro de San Juan [Mexico]. The mountains composed of 'crumbled pumice stone, which gives it a whitish appearance at a distance', and mainly covered with pines, including one resembling Pinus macrophylla, 60-80 feet high, with 'beautiful, long foliage' and cones 12-16 inches long. Another large Pinus called 'by the natives' ocote hembra ('female pine, in opposition to the first, which is named ocote colorado, or ocote macho, red or male pine'), with foliage 16 inches long and cones 4-5 inches long. The higher parts covered with oaks, an Arbutus, a white, flowering Ceanothus, Bouvardia splendens [Bouvardia ternifolia], Lobelia laxiflora and Macromeria exserta [here the list includes 8 more plants]
(8 Jan 1846) Crossing the plain to the east. Arriving at the forest of Morte de los Quartos[?] after a six-hour ride. The forest mainly oaks, with some pines. The only plant in flower Lupinus ehrenbergii [Lupinus mexicanus], growing on the banks and in the dried-up bed of a rivulet crossing the mountain, and Littaea geminiflora [identification unresolved as at Jun 2019] ('with a flower stem 12-18 feet long, bent down by the weight of its numerous seedpods'). Arriving at the village of Ocotillo in the evening
(9 Jan 1846) Reaching the hamlet of Ausita[?]at noon at the foot of Tetitlan[?] volcano. Finding 'with difficulty' a guide to the mountain and preparing the necessities ('including a calabash with water'). Reaching the volcano before sunset and camping in a 'beautiful pine forest'
(10 Jan 1846) Leaving his horses with his servant and ascending the mountain with his guide, 'who, being armed with a machete (a kind of long knife), cleared a path among the brushwood and long grass that encumbered our way'. Ascending for four hours through a forest composed of pines, a few oaks, Mimosa, a Laurus, Garrya laurifolia and a Fraxinus. Arriving at the 'ledge of the volcanic mass, destitute of all vegetation', with no visible crater. The volcano located about 6,000 feet above sea level, and 'centuries must have passed since it was in activity; no tradition exists when it first broke out'. Returning to the encampment in two hours. Reaching the farm of La Estancia in the evening
(12 Jan 1846) Returning to Tepic
(16 Jan 1846) Finishing writing letters to England. Intending to set out on an excursion to the south, but being prevented by heavy rain, despite the dry season. The rains called aguas nieves, 'snowy rains [sleet]: they are not accompanied by thunder, but continue for several days without intermission'
(20 Jan 1846) The weather having cleared, 'sallied forth on horseback' with a servant 'hired for the occasion'. Crossing the plain of Tepic to the south. After an easy four-hour ride, entering a ravine with a meandering stream: 'the vegetation here assumes a tropical character'. Collecting plants including Cattleya, Stanhopea, Mormodes, Catasetum and Epidendrum, but none of them in flower
Arriving in the evening at Compostela [Mexico], said to be the oldest town in the state of Jalisco: 'judging from its dilapidated appearance, tradition seems not to be at fault'
(21 Jan 1846) Crossing the plain of San Jose del Conde [unidentified], a 'rich pasture' for cattle. Descending to the river of Huilotitlan [unidentified] in a ravine about 800-1,000 feet below the plain: 'the perpendicular sides present no facilities of a road being made there. We therefore had to pass up the ravine, fording the river eight times, which owing to the late rains was nearly impracticable, as the water reached up to our saddles'. The vegetation offering 'little interesting' during this season, with mainly deciduous, leafless shrubs, 'only relieved by a giant Cereus forming a singular tree', with a stem 18 inches in diameter and 2-4 feet in height, its numerous angular branches rising 20-30 feet high: 'in May it yields a delicious fruit called pitaya, which is much sought after by the natives'. Arriving at the small village of Matanejo in the evening
(22 Jan 1846) Leaving Matanejo early in the morning. Collecting plants in an oak forest, including two species of Epidendrum, Oncidium, Odontoglossum and Epiphyllum ('like E. ackermannii [Disocactus ackermannii], inhabiting trees [...] judging from its broad, deeply cut leaves, or rather stems, it will prove a valuable acquisition to that interesting tribe of plants'). The white timber of the oak not appearing very durable, rotting quickly when exposed to the weather and even the healthy trees appearing usually to be hollow in the centre
(25 Jan 1846) Returning to Tepic, 'not seeing any prospect of finding anything to warrant my proceeding farther in this direction'
(26 Jan 1846) The aguas nieves setting in again and continuing until 29 Jan
(29 Jan-6 Feb 1846) Making some excursions on foot in the vicinity of Tepic, but 'without finding much worth noticing'
(7 Feb 1846) Setting out for San Blas [Mexico] with his servant. Arriving in the evening at the farm of La Manuela, in a wood composed of Acacia, Prosopis, Laurus, palm, cedar and several species of Ficus: 'among the latter there is one sending forth roots, which descend in to the earth, giving support and nourishment to the numerous far-spreading branches, or sometimes encircling a palm with its stem, thus presenting the singular deception of palm leaves growing on the fig tree. It may be supposed the embrace in time proves fatal to the palm'. Seeing a species of Annona, probably Annona laevigata [identification unresolved as at Jun 2019] ('the native name is anona') with a fruit resembling cherimoyer [cherimoya], 'but bears no comparison with the latter as to quality', often cultivated in the warmer parts of Mexico
(8 Feb 1846) Arriving at San Blas. The country 'perfectly level' to the seashore and liable to flooding from Rio Grande de Santiago [Mexico], running into the sea by several outlets seven leagues [21 miles] above the town. Travelling for five leagues [15 miles] 'knee-deep in mud' due to a recent flood. Strolling on the beach and the surrounding saltmarshes, but deciding that he 'need not look for any novelties there'. 'Incessant' rain
(9 Feb 1846) Returning to Tepic via Camino de Aguas, a shorter and rockier route, passable even in the rainy season. Copying observations on the amount of rain in Tepic, Jun 1845-Mar 1846 by Mr Alexander Forbes [merchant and explorer in Mexico], the rainfall varying between 0.5 and 12.8 inches within a month, with the total of 48.1 inches of rain within those nine months, 'above the average in ordinary seasons'. The rainy season lasting from mid-June to the end of September
(23 Feb 1846) Returning from an excursion to Rio Grande de Santiago, the largest river in central Mexico, running for over 600 miles north-west from the swampy plains by the towns of Lerma [Mexico] and Tolucca [Toluca, Mexico] near Mexico City. The level of the water rising due to the rain 14 feet above the ordinary levels, destroying the early crops of Indian corn [flint corn], and 'carrying everything before it that impeded its course'. The vegetation similar to that near San Blas, and not finding many plants. Collecting an Epidendrum, an Oncidium and another orchidaceous plant growing on palms and resembling Catasetum, but with a branched flower stem, 8-10 inches long, growing from the apex of the pseudobulbs
(7 Mar 1846) Dispatching a tin case of seeds collected in Tepic and Guadalajara to be forwarded by diligence [stagecoach] to Vera Cruz [Veracruz]
(9 Mar 1846) Dispatching two chests of Orchidaceae and pine cones to Tampico [Mexico]. Luggage arriving from Mexico City [Mexico], having been detained for a month due to no transport and a change in the government: 'on such occasions the muleteers contrive to keep out of the way from fear of having their mules embargoed or losing them altogether'
(14 Mar 1846) Leaving Tepic for San Blas ('whither my luggage had preceded me')
(15 Mar 1846) Embarking on board a small schooner for Mazatlan [Mexico], the 'most important port' on the western coast of Mexico, due to the 'more accommodating' Custom House than San Blas or Acapulco [Mexico]. Enquiring after merchant vessels for northern California, but discovering there had been none for six months and none likely in the near future. Applying ('backed by a letter of introduction from some influential house in Mazatlan') to Commodore Sloat [John D. Sloat, captain in the United States Navy, who claimed California for the United States in July 1846] for a passage on a United States ship, Portsmouth, due to sail in a few days for Monterey [California], but being refused due to the unsettled circumstances between the United States and Mexico and the captain wishing to keep the ship's destination secret ('a circumstance well known three weeks before she sailed')
(May 1846) Applying for passage at the beginning of May to Rear Admiral Sir George Seymour [British Royal Navy officer] of HMS Collingwood. Seymour promising Hartweg a passage on HMS Juno
(11 May 1846) Boarding HMS Juno for Monterey and sailing the following morning
(7 Jun 1846) Arriving at Monterey after a journey of 26 days
(8-9 Jun 1846) Delivering letters of introduction and settling in the 'quiet little town' of Monterey, surrounded by green fields and pine-covered mountains, in contrast to the 'dried-up vegetation' around Mazatlan
The predominant trees an evergreen oak (Quercus californica [Quercus kelloggii]) with a globular crown and 'distorted' branches, growing to 30 feet high in low, dry locations, and Pinus insignis [Pinus radiata] growing to 60-100 feet high in the higher parts, with a stem 2-4 feet in diameter. Varyingly sized leaves and cones depending on the location, the leaves growing to 4 ½-5 ½ inches and the cones 4-4 ½ inches in close woods, but remaining smaller closer to the seashore, where the trees grow one-sided, 'a defect caused by north-west winds'. The differences ('too insignificant to establish them even as varieties') in Pinus insignis leading to the tree being variously known as Pinus tuberculata and Pinus radiata, collected according to Loudon [John Claudius Loudon] by the 'late Dr Coulter [Thomas Coulter, botanist and explorer, who collected plants in Mexico and California in 1820s and 1830s]' near the seashore in Monterey, probably in Point Pinos [California]. Seeing on Point Pinos the cones growing in pendulous clusters of three or four and remaining on the trees for several years after shedding their seeds, their apex somewhat 'deformed, that is the scales on one side are more developed than on the other', ripening in about 18-24 months
Seeing on the dry banks of ravines north-east of the town the Californian horse chestnut (Pavia californica [?Aesculus californica]), an 'extremely ornamental shrub', growing up to 25 feet high in a 'globular' shape, with an abundance of fragrant white and pink flowers on spikes 12 inches long ('which I had the curiosity to count [and one] had more than four hundred open flowers and buds upon it'). Collecting other shrubs including Ceanothus thyrsiflorus growing in the pine woods 10-15 feet high, Sambucus[?] ('No 28'), Lonicera racemosa [Symphoria racemosa], Spiraea ariifolia [?Holodiscus dumosus or Holodiscus discolor] and Caprifolium douglasii [unidentified] [here the list includes 13 more plants]. Collecting other annual and perennial plants, including Hugelia ('No 5'), Delphinium ('No 24, 26, 61'), Leptosiphon androsaceus [Linanthus androsaceus], Collinsia bicolor [?Collinsia verna or Collinsia heterophylla] and Malva ('No 25') [here the list includes 8 more plants]. Collecting bulbs including Calochortus luteus, Cyclobothra alba [Calochortus albus], Brodiaea congesta [Dichelostemma congestum], Calliprora flava [Triteleia ixioides], Hesperoscordum lacteum [Triteleia hyacinthina] and a Zygadenus called 'amote' ('of which the bruised roots serve as substitute for soap')
(22 Jun 1846) Leaving Monterey for the Santa Cruz Mission [Santa Cruz, California] across the bay, with 'an American gentleman, who obligingly furnished me with a horse for the occasion', the journey by land 60 miles, and by water 25 miles. Travelling along the seashore over the plain and arriving at the mission in the afternoon 'after a gallop of seven hours: this speed is the usual mode of Californian travelling', with horses driven ahead for longer journeys
Seeing wooded mountains with Taxodium sempervirens [Sequoia sempervirens], called by the American settlers 'redwood' or 'bastard cedar', and growing to an 'enormous size', with the average height of 200 feet and a trunk 6-8 feet in diameter ('straight as an arrow'). Seeing a tree known as 'the giant of the forest', 270 feet high with the circumference of the stem 55 feet and reddish, smooth bark 6-12 inches thick. The timber a 'beautiful' red ('like pencilwood'), close-grained, light and brittle, 'well-adapted for in- and outdoor work, as the boards when seasoned, do not warp, nor is it attacked by insects'. The timber frequently exported to the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii, United States of America], 1,000 feet of 1-inch boards being worth £8
Seeing some 'fine' trees of Abies douglasii [Pseudotsuga menziesii] on the mountains, scattered among the redwood. Seeing other trees, including mountain oak ('No 84, ?Castanea chrysophylla ['chrysophylla' crossed out] [Chrysolepsis chrysophylla]'), growing in shady woods in a 'pyramidal' shape 50 feet high with lanceolate, serrated leaves covered on the underside with a yellowish down, fructiferous catkins, and nuts or acorns, initially covered with down and enclosed in an open cup covered with coarse, scaly hairs: 'some Indian tribes eat the acorns either new, or make a sort of bread of them'
Seeing on the outskirts of the woods Arbutus procera [Arbutus menziesii], growing 50 feet high with linear, light green leaves, two species of Ceanothus, Corylus ('No 85'), Spiraea and Zauschneria with scarlet flowers ('No 87') [here the list includes 8 more plants]
(2 Jul 1846) Returning to Monterey on board an American bark [barque], the journey lasting for four hours. Finding that Commodore Sloat [John D. Sloat] had arrived in the Savannah accompanied by two sloops [single mast sailing boat] of war
(7 Jul 1846) The American commodore landing a party of 'marines and seamen' and hoisting the American flag, due to a 'rupture' between the United States and Mexico near Matamoros [Mexico], resulting in the defeat of the Mexicans. General Castro [Jose Antonio Castro, Californio politican, commanding general of Mexican forces in Las Californias during the Mexican-American War, 1846-1848], in command of Monterey, 'had previously gone to the north, where a party of American backwoodsmen had hoisted the flag of independence, i.e. a grizzly bear looking up at one star [the Bear Flag is the official flag of California, first used in Jun 1846 in Sonoma as part of a rebellion declaring California as independent California Republic; three weeks later, California was declared part of United States]. These adventurers, who were indirectly acting for the United States government, and supplied with arms and ammunition from the US Ship Portsmouth lying at San Francisco [California], surprised the little town of Sonoma and made General Vallejo [Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, Californio politician, commanding general of Alta California] and several others prisoners. General Castro remained quietly at San Jose [San Jose, California] until Captain Fremont [John Charles Fremont, major in the army of the United States], with his hardy mountaineers marched towards him, when he went to the south, probably to Santa Barbara [California] to join his force with that of the governor Pio Pico [Pio de Jesus Pico, Californio politican, governor of Alta California], thus leaving one half of Upper California [Alta California] undefended, in the possession of the Americans'
Fields and woods, previously covered with flowers, drying due to the lack of rain during the summer months, and even the bulbous plants shedding their flowers and ripening their seeds
Not succeeding in finding horses, Castro having taken all available horses for the use of his army, intending to march against the Americans. Not being able to venture far from Monterey due to safety concerns: 'I might fall in with a party of country people, who could not be persuaded that a person would come all the way from London to look after seeds, which in their opinion are not worth picking up, but might suppose that I have some political object in view'
Walking to Carmel Bay [California], an easy two-hour walk over wooded hills. Finding a Diervilla ('No 47'), Cupressus macrocarpa ('No 143', growing 60 feet high with a stem nine feet in circumference, its branches far-spreading and flat at the top like cedar of Lebanon), Eschscholzia crocea [Eschscholzia californica], Abronia rosea [Abronia umbellata] and Abronia mellifera ('No 92 & 93. These two species, the former with pink and the latter with orange flowers, are spreading on the sands near the seashore, and delightfully scent the air with their perfume towards evenings') [here the list includes 7 more plants]
Making another excursion to Rancho de Tularcitos, via the mission of Carmel [Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo, Carmel-by-the-sea, California]: 'this, like all other missions in California since their breaking up in 1836 [the Mexican secularization act of 1833 aimed to reduce the Spanish influence in California by distributing land owned by the Spanish Roman Catholic establishments to the native inhabitants previously under the missionary rule, although in practice most of the land became the property of Spanish and Mexican rancheros], are in a sad state of neglect. The buildings are fast falling to ruins, and the lands nearly in the same wilderness as the first settlers found them. The Indians who were employed by the friars as labourers, and held in a state of slavery, were then thrown upon their own means for subsistence. The greater part went to the Tular Valley [Tulare, California], from whence they commit their depredations upon the property of the white settlers, chiefly carrying of herds of horses, which form their principal food'
Following the narrow valley of the Carmel River [California] and entering a 'beautiful' wood composed of alders, willows and plane trees, some growing 80 feet high. Seeing herbaceous plants and shrubs including two species of Solidago ('No 118 & 119'), an unnamed plant ('No 120, with an extremely powerful smell, which, if inhaled in excess, produces bleeding of the nose'), a 'half-climbing' Caprifolium ('with small, dingy, yellow flowers'), Clematis ('No 121') and Berberis aquifolium growing on rocky grounds [here the list includes 4 more plants]. Seeing on the high mountains oaks and Pinus macrocarpa [Pinus coulteri], growing 80-100 feet high with a 6-8 feet wide stem. Collecting cones of the smaller trees with 20-30 years' growth, the larger ones not yet ripened
Returning via the mountain of El Toro [California], destitute of trees or shrubs, but thickly covered with wild oats (Avena). Finding in a ravine some small trees of Pinus sabiniana, growing 8-30 feet high: 'in this situation they appear to produce their cones when yet very young', the cones ripening around November
(23 Aug 1846) Being invited by Don Jose Antonio Aguirre [also known as Don Antonio, Spanish merchant and rancher in Alta California] for a trip on board the bark Joven Guipuzoana to San Francisco Bay. Intending to visit the valley of Sacramento River [California], hoping to be able to procure horses for riding back to Monterey
(24 Aug 1846) Anchoring off Santa Cruz. Making an excursion to the mountains. Passing through a copse wood composed of Pavia californica [?Aesculus californica], Quercus californica [Quercus kelloggii], Ceanothus thyrsiflorus, Corylus ('No 85') and Rhus viride[?] ('called yedra, and justly dreaded by the inhabitants for its poisonous properties')
Entering a 'beautiful' pine forest, the leaves of the pines in threes, growing to 11 inches long, longer than the reddish-brown cones, with scales terminating in a small, sharp point. The trees growing to 100 feet high, with stems 3-4 feet in diameter. The cones, growing in clusters of three or four, ripening in September, about eight or nine months from flowering. Naming the apparently new species of pine after the secretary of the Society, George Bentham, as Pinus benthamiana [Pinus ponderosa]
Finding another species of pine, 'probably the doubtful and little known Pinus californica [Pinus attenuata]', growing slowly to no higher than 25 feet, with leaves 4 ½ inches long, in bundles of threes and cones, light brown in colour, turning to silvery grey, and only produced on the main stem, about 5 inches long with curved outer surface, the seeds on the outer surface more developed
(28 Aug 1846) Continuing for Yerba Buena [San Francisco] on the bark. Encountering a strong north-westerly gale off Cape Ano Nuevo [Point Ano Nuevo, California], tearing some of the sails. Having to return to repair the sails
(30 Aug 1846) Sailing again with strong winds and currents. The coast destitute of trees or shrubs, except on Point Ano Nuevo, with some pines or cypresses
(2 Sep 1846) Opposite the 'narrow, but safe' entrance to San Francisco Bay, a large inland sea divided into several branches, the principal port in California and the largest and safest port on the western coast. Anchoring off the small town of Yerba Buena [San Francisco] ('[the town] rising rapidly in importance')
Having trouble in the customs with two Wardian cases supplied by the Society, which had been shipped from London to the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii] and then to Yerba Buena [San Francisco], 'under the Mexican government' but without details of their contents or ownership: 'some miscreant thinking he might profit by the occasion, denounced them as containing contraband goods', but on inspection at the Custom House, 'instead of silk stockings and printed calicoes, they found two small greenhouses, some kitchen garden seeds, nails &c'. Without paperwork to proof [prove] his ownership, sending a petition to the captain of the port, proving the property before a magistrate before receiving his boxes, 'after a good deal of running to and fro'
The vegetation around Yerba Buena 'poor', the surrounding sand hills thinly covered with brushwood of oak (Quercus californica [Quercus kelloggii]), Ceanothus thyrsiflorus, Rhus, Prunus 'toyon' [Heteromeles arbutifolia] ('No 102') and Baccharis[?] ('No 123')
(10 Sep 1846) Going across the bay to Sausalito [California] with Don Antonio [Don Jose Antonio Aguirre] and Captain C., on their way to their farms on the northern side of the bay
Being joined at the mission of San Rafael by General Vallejo [Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo], 'who brought the intelligence that twelve hundred Wallawalla [Walla Walla] Indians from Oregon had arrived in the Sacramento Valley, and sent a message to Sutter's Fort [California], demanding the cattle due to them, and that the person of a Mr Cook [Grove Cook, American settler] be given up to them unconditionally. This affair arose from a quarrel about a mule in the autumn of 1844'. Relating an incident involving the Wallawalla, trading 'leather pantaloons, buffalo robes and elk skins for cattle' and Mr Cook ('an American') spotting a mule he had previously lost among the horses, being threatened by the chief Elijah [Elijah Hedding, also known as Toayahnu, son of a Walla Walla chief]: 'the following day, being Sunday, the Indians came to church at the fort. After service, Elijah was invited into another apartment, and while talking with another chief about things alleged against them by the river Indians, Cook observed 'yesterday you were going to shoot me, now you must die', at the same time drawing a pistol. The young chief, who had been brought up at a Methodist mission, and had learned to read, write and to speak the English language fluently, said deliberately 'let me pray a little first', and, kneeling down, commenced, and while invoking the divine mercy was shot through the heart upon the spot. The Indians immediately moved their camp, and leaving the cattle they had bartered for behind them, returned home. In consequence of their arrival now, when their intentions of avenging themselves were but too well known, the Americans concentrated their naval forces in the bay of San Francisco. Captain Fremont [John Charles Fremont] with his mounted rifle corps returned from the south, volunteers and the landed proprietors were called out, and sent up to the river Sacramento, to keep the depredations of the Wallawallas in check'
Hartweg's companions having to proceed with General Vallejo to the small town of Sonoma, 'in order, as he said, to defend their country from the attacks of the Indians'. Hartweg following them, having no horse, guide 'or knowledge of the country'. The general embargoing a horse for Hartweg. Arriving at Sonoma in the evening after a ride of 48 miles 'under a broiling hot sun'
200 Wallawallas rumoured to be encamped 20 miles from Sutter's Fort, about 100 miles from Sonoma, with a further 1,000 people higher up in the valley. The town of Sonoma, consisting of a large square with a row of houses on two sides of the square, 'was put in a state of defence', guarded by a few marines and sailors from Yerba Buena [San Francisco]. The American and Californian volunteers sent away in parties of 30 men. Hartweg's two companions, 'being intimate friends, and one of them a near relation of the general, were retained in his staff'. Hartweg having to give up on his plans of visiting Sacramento Valley 'under these war-like circumstances'
Enjoying the hospitality of General Vallejo for three days before continuing with F. ('an Englishman', formerly a boatswain in the British Navy) to his farm at San Miguel, 30 miles away, 'where he is established with two of his countrymen in raising grain and rearing horses and cattle'. Now about 60 years old, 'as vigorous and healthy as a man of forty. Being an expert horseman, he occupies his time chiefly in breaking in horses'
The country around Sonoma and San Miguel level and 'capable of great agricultural improvements', with several species of oak thriving in the fine, black vegetable mould, growing in 'large, irregular clumps, giving the country the appearance of an immense park, enlivened by numerous herds of elk and antelope'. A ridge of mountains near San Miguel thinly scattered with oaks and some Abies douglasii [Pseudotsuga menziesii], but no other kinds of pine. Finding in the shaded dells Viburnum, Euonymus and a large-leaved Calycanthus
Continuing from San Miguel to Bodega [California], 'where the Russians a few years back had an establishment granted them by the Mexican government in order to supply their possessions in the north with wheat etc. When their term expired, it was purchased by Captain S., an American, who erected a steam sawmill there [Stephen Smith established a lumber mill or sawmill near Bodega in 1843, but the land including Bodega was purchased by John Augustus Sutter, also known as Johann August Suter]', timber supplied by redwood trees ('the most northern limit of this magnificent tree')
Extent - 1 volume
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