Pages 611-702 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 4

Title

Pages 611-702 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 4

Record type

Archive

Original Reference

RHS/Col/6/1/7

Date

6 Oct 1825-24 Jan 1826

Scope & content

Pages 611-702, entitled 'Part fourth, continued from Oct 5th 1825': Narrative of James McRae's journey, describing part of his stay in Chile, and the journey on HMS Blonde from Chile to Saint Helena. The journal continues from part 3 [RHS/Col/6/1/6]

This item is bound in the volume comprising journal and papers of James McRae. This is the fourth of five parts of McRae's journal. All five were subsequently bound together in the same volume. For a description of the first three parts, 8 Sep 1824-5 Oct 1825, see RHS/Col/6/1/4-6. For a description of the final part, 25 Jan-15 Mar 1826, see RHS/Col/6/1/8

Illustrations: Includes a small illustration of a plough on page 611. There are occasional pencil annotations in the margins, mainly consisting of simple crosses

Written at times on both rectos and versos

(6 Oct 1825) A fine morning. Seeing several 'poor farmers' ploughing and harrowing the fields with a plough made of two pieces of wood, 'without any ironwork, & their harrows [made] of brushwood pressed flat between four sticks, fastened crossways at each end, upon which the driver sat behind the oxen to make them heavier to loosen the earth rooted up in clods by their wretched ploughs, which are also drawn by a couple of oxen' [here the journal includes a small illustration of the plough used by the farmers]

The road busy with visitors from the city travelling to dine on board the English ships, some on foot, others on horseback, '& numbers of the better sort of females' in carts drawn by oxen, arched over with wood or canvas, open at both ends and with 'low, clumsy' wooden wheels. Similar carts used by 'every family of consequence in Chile, to carry often their whole number, besides their servants & bedding, leaving their homes deserted till their return'

Not finding many new plants. Temperature 54°-60°

(7 Oct 1825) A fine morning. Spending the day 'numbering & shifting' specimens. The sailors from the English ships coming on shore 'to be reviewed' on the nearby hills with about thirty Araucanian Indians [Mapuche] employed by the Chileans: 'these were brought with their chief by the governor to show the English captains their mode of fighting. Their arms were long wands to imitate spears, which they carried in various ways, & were themselves very noisy, particularly when they represented to charge the enemy either on foot or horseback. They appeared to be excellent horsemen, & but yet little civilised. Their dress consisted of the poncho & dark, woollen trousers of their own manufacture, with sandals on their feet, & the toes only in the stirrups. They were all of a dark copper complexion, with long black hair hanging loose over the shoulders, & high, white, pilled cloth caps on their heads'

Not managing to meet with Lord B. [George Anson Byron, captain of HMS Blonde] and Captain M. [Thomas Maling, captain of HMS Cambridge] due to the reviews and the number of visitors. Not seeing Mr Clark [of the Chilean Mining Company] either, despite his promise to tell McRae more about the journey to Santiago [Chile]. Temperature 54°-62°

(8 Oct 1825) A fine morning. Going to Conception [Concepcion, Chile] at 8am to see Clark and Dr Green [unidentified]. Clark and Green 'strongly recommending' McRae not to travel to Santiago due to safety concerns. 'Mr C. & Dr G. are both two of the oldest residents in Chile, & are well acquainted with the nature of travelling in the country, particularly the former gentleman, who was employed during the most part of the revolution by the patriots as a spy to watch the movement of the royal army, which he did always with success, being considered the best horseman in Chile, from his often riding some hundreds of miles in so short a time as to be hardly impossible'. Clark currently employed by the Chilean Mining Company, advising the commissioner, Mr Cameron, regarding the company's intentions to establish settlements in various parts of the country. Clark promising to acquire Araucaria cones for McRae, and to collect plants for the Society and to correspond with the secretary [Joseph Sabine, secretary of the Horticultural Society of London]

The Blossom with Captain Beachy [Frederick Beechey, captain of HMS Blossom] arriving on its 'voyage of discovery'. McRae hoping to receive a letter from Sabine on the ship. Temperature 56°-67°

(9 Oct 1825) Sunday. A fine morning. Turning specimens and packing amaryllis and orchid roots in sand. Going out in the afternoon to collect plants on the seaside. Losing hope of receiving a letter, the Blossom having sent the letter bag on board the Diamond at Rio [Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] on its way to Valparaiso [Chile], 'which occasions my mind to feel rather unhappy, being still anxious to go from here to Santiago, notwithstanding the unfavourable reports of the state of the country'. Temperature 55°-61°

(10 Oct 1825) A fine morning. Finding several new plants south of the bay, including a flowering red Amaryllis growing in the sand. Going to the woods ('larger than any other place I had been at in Chile') and finding several Myrtus, some ferns and a new species of Cyathea. Meeting 'one of the gentleman collectors from the Blossom', who had seen Joseph Sabine and Mr Brown [Robert Brown, botanist at the Linnean Society] before leaving London. The man promising that their botanist Mr Lay [George Tradescant Lay, botanist on HMS Blossom] (who was 'Mr Sabine's intimate friend') would visit McRae in the town later

Being told on his return that the ship was to sail the following day. Spending the evening planting 'the few living plants' in a box to take to England. Lord B. [George Anson Byron] asking McRae to send his box and other belongings on board, but saying they would not sail until the following day. Captain M. [Thomas Maling] saying that there would be an opportunity for McRae to send more plants or to get a passage for himself in about two months' time, and again in about four months' time, 'to which I returned thanks, & said I would be guided by himself, unless I had word from England to alter my arrangements already made'

Meeting Captain Beachy [Frederick Beechey] and George Tradescant Lay from the Blossom. The captain asking about McRae's journey to Mouna Kaah [Mauna Kea, Hawai'i Island, Hawaii, United States of America], including whether he had measured the exact height of the mountain, 'which I gave him to understand I had no such means, being always alone in my excursions'. Inviting Lay to visit him the following morning to go 'in the fields'. Temperature 54°-62°

(11 Oct 1825) A fine day. Showing George Tradescant Lay his specimens, 'but [he] could give me no information respecting them, farther than what I knew myself'. Intending to go to the city to visit Dr Green to establish him as a correspondent to the Society and having to cancel spending the day with Lay, 'which he readily excused, seeing how I was situated'. During the short visit, Lay confessing to being 'already sick of the voyage, & wished he had not left England, although he considered himself differently situated from me, being as he said possessed with a warrant (which made me smile) from the Admiralty, that entitled him to the rank of an officer on board, & the right of having a cabin to his own use'

Meeting Thomas Maling. McRae telling Maling about the arrowroot of Chile, made from the roots of a species of Alstroemeria, whereas in the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii] it was made from a species of Tacca, & in the W Indes [West Indies] from Maranta. Maling saying he now intended to buy the Chilean arrowroot to 'have them all three anelized [analysed] by the surgeons to ascertain their difference of qualities'

Leaving the port at noon with Maling to go to the city, having received permission to remain on shore for the day ('having now, after the arrowroot business, got more into favour'). Meeting on the way both the consuls [Christopher Henry Nugent and Henry Rouse] with the governor, Mr Clark and Cameron [commissioner of the Chilean Mining Company] on their way to the ships. Leaving a letter for Dr Green with the addresses of Joseph Sabine and the Society's agents, advising him to send plants via Nugent

Going to meet an Araucunan [Mapuche] chief, living in a hut built of reeds and wood with 'several wives & a large family of children. His hut was almost empty, having only a poor bed supported by four sticks, & a few stools. Yet he seemed to possess all the pride & steatleness [stateliness] of a chieftain. He appeared to be in liquer at the time I saw him, & seemed to consider my visit, as I thought, rather intruding. In height he was above the middle size, well-made & rather fairer in complexion than the inferior class of his countrymen. His wives had enormous-sized beads strung to their ears, which reached more than half-way down their bodies'

Seeing plenty of flowering fruit trees in some of the gardens in the city, but hardly any vegetables, and only a few native flowers. Considering it 'somewhat singular that the common sage has never yet found its way to Chile', a wild species of sage being used instead, but basil, thyme, mint and roses growing in abundance. Seeing in some gardens, 'belonging at one time to people of consequence', palm trees with large trunks, resembling the Phynese dactylifera [Phoenix dactylifera], large stone pines and a species of cedar, all native species

Returning to the port at dusk. Seeing several fire rockets being discharged from the Cambridge in honour of the governor of Conception [Concepcion]. Temperature 56°-58°

(12 Oct 1825) [Annotated in pencil in the margin: '1825 Oct on board'] A fine day. Going on board at noon, the Cambridge and the Briton having sailed earlier. The Blossom staying for a few days to finish surveying the harbour before following the other ships to Valparaiso. Spending 12 days in the port of Conception [Concepcion]: 'poor [...] but [with] one of the finest harbour[s] in the world', with the ground full of coal. Wishing he had been able to travel to Santiago at such a favourable season in order to collect plants, in particular 'alstromerias & bulbous-rooted plants'. Temperature 54°-58°

(13 Oct 1825) A fine morning with moderate southerly breezes. Coming in sight of the Cambridge at 4pm. Lowering the boats to tow the ship. Anchoring in 51 fathoms of water in Valparaiso Bay [Chile]. Expecting the ship Waterloo to arrive from Rio [Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] with mail. Temperature 54°-58°

(14 Oct 1825) A fine morning with moderate south-westerly breezes. Sailing at 8am further into the harbour and anchoring at 10am with the Cambridge and the Briton. Going on shore in the afternoon to see Mr Cummings [Hugh Cuming, sailmaker and naturalist in Valparaiso]. Being told that 'the inhabitants had been in arms for a few days since we had been away, against the government for to repeal some arbitrary laws lately enacted much to their disadvantage'. Temperature 54°-59°

(15 Oct 1825) A fine day. Asking Lord Byron [George Anson Byron] how long he intended to stay on the coast, but he 'could not name any certain time'. Embarking on a boat at noon to take on shore a box of living plants and his other belongings. Meeting Mr Cruikshanks [Alexander Cruckshanks, botanist and merchant in Chile], who was sorry McRae had not been able to travel to Santiago from Conception [Concepcion]. Temperature 56°-60°

(16 Oct 1825) Sunday. A fine day. Going south of the port to collect plants at 9am. Finding a fine species of Aristolochia growing near the sea, and several other plants in flower and in seed. Returning to the town at 4pm. Putting the specimens in paper and shifting the earlier specimens still drying. Temperature 57°-62°

(17 Oct 1825) A fine day. Going to the hills above the port at 8am to collect plants. Finding several kinds of orchids, wild potatoes growing in the ravines, amaryllises and alstroemerias. Being told on his return by his landlord that the officers of the English ships were busy organising another play and that the governor of the port had gone on board the Briton 'for protection from the government, who had censured him for suffering the inhabitants of the port to rise in arms against them'. Temperature 58°-61°
(18 Oct 1825) A 'dull', foggy morning. Going to the valley above Alexander Cruckshanks' house, 'where Mrs Gream [Maria Graham, later known as Maria Calcott, travel writer and illustrator, who lived in Chile in 1822, and who McRae met in Brazil in 1824] had so often visited, & found, according to her book of Chile [Maria Graham, 'Journal of a residence in Chile during the year 1822; and a voyage from Chile to Brazil in 1823', 1824], so many plants, which most of them I found had disappeared, since the handsome Steryoxylon [Stereoxylon] was seen here before in February last was not at this time in flower'. Crossing several ravines on his way back, but not finding many new plants

Being told the governor, Lastre [Francisco de la Lastra y de la Sotta, governor of Valparaiso, previously the Supreme Director of Chile], had arrived from the city 'to take the place of Saintone [Jose Ignacio Zenteno, military officer and governor of Valparaiso], [who had] gone on board the Briton for protection & who, [it] is said, is going to Peru to join Boliver [Simon Bolivar, Venezuelan military and political leader]'. Temperature 59°-61°

(19 Oct 1825) A fine day. Christopher Richard Nugent inviting McRae to visit him at 11am. Meeting at Nugent's office George Anson Byron, Thomas Maling and Sir M. Maxwell [Murray Maxwell, captain of HMS Briton] reading the newspapers that had arrived in the post that day. Finding that the post had brought no letters for him. Nugent giving McRae a young Araucaria plant to take to the Society, 'in case it should meet with some accident while in his possession'. Arranging specimens and numbering seeds in the afternoon. Temperature 58°-61°

(20 Oct 1825) A fine morning. Visiting Alexander Cruckshanks at 9am with the Araucaria plant, intending to fill two empty boxes left at Cruckshanks' with plants. Finding Cruckshanks busy writing to Dr Hooker [William Jackson Hooker, professor of botany at the University of Glasgow and director of the Glasgow Botanic Gardens] and Joseph Sabine, 'to whom he said he was sending seeds by a gentleman going home from Santiago by way of Liverpool'. Returning to town in the evening to shift the specimens after a hot day collecting plants on the hills. Temperature 59°-66°

(21 Oct 1825) A fine day. Arranging specimens and seeds. Going to Alexander Cruckshanks' in the afternoon to plant another box of plants. Meeting on his way Lord B. [George Anson Byron], Murray Maxwell and Christopher Richard Nugent. Byron telling McRae that he had spoken with Thomas Maling 'for to endorse my bills after he left, & who wished to see myself respecting it & to know the stay I intended to make'. Temperature 61°-67°

(22 Oct 1825) A fine day. Writing to Joseph Sabine 'to go by the overland post'. Arranging specimens in the afternoon. Loud thunder and vivid lightning during the night. Temperature 62°-65°

(23 Oct 1825) A hazy morning. Visiting Christopher Richard Nugent and Thomas Maling at 10am. Lord B. [George Anson Byron] suggesting McRae return home with him, as he intended to stay longer on the coast than first expected. Maling saying he would be able to get a passage on any HM ship sailing to England. Byron, Nugent and Maling saying they were going to the city in a few days and recommending McRae to go there as soon as possible, to make the best use of his time. Several salutes fired from the English ships in honour of the new governor's visit. Temperature 62°-65°

(24 Oct 1825) A fine morning. Packing for the journey to Santiago. Mr Talbot [Henry John Chetwynd Talbot, lieutenant on HMS Blonde] promising to join McRae if he received permission from Lord B. [George Anson Byron]. Visiting Alexander Cruckshanks in the afternoon to ask him to fill the plant boxes during McRae's absence. Talbot visiting in the evening to say he would be joining McRae, 'which I felt glad [of], being before old travellers together at the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii]'. Temperature 60°-64°

(25 Oct 1825) A fine morning. Rising at dawn to send the luggage in advance to Santiago. Buying a horse for $25, 'as the person with whom I had made an engagement failed to get his in from the country'

Henry Rouse, the consul, and Murray Maxwell with 'another gentleman' visiting McRae and asking him to join them on a visit to the French Hotel to observe an 'experiment to be had upon fowls by a gentleman from Peru, with some kind of herb from that country that had the powerful effect of stopping blood instantly, & also the power of preventing mortification'. Seeing the man ('a Spaniard') with two fowls and a herb resembling a species of Piper, but smelling like sage. The experiment commencing by the landlord cutting one of the birds with a pen knife, 'perfectly through one of the fowls' head & brains, then afterwards cramming himself the mouth full of his yerba basadoe, as he called it, as well as rubbing over [the] wound, which certainly did stop the blood from running, but the fowl died almost instantly. So did also a second, which he tried by running the pen knife through the neck, that disgusted us all in seeing him perform his barbarous experiment'. The man giving McRae some of the yerba and inviting him to visit him in the city

Leaving the port for the city with Mr T. [Henry Talbot] and two other 'gentlemen' from the Blonde. Reaching Casa Blanca [Casablanca, Chile] at 6pm after 36 miles' journey, 'drenching wet' after torrential rain in the afternoon. Having refreshments and attempting to dry their clothes before going to bed. The landlady, 'a Chileno widow woman named Brown, had but very poor accommodations for us, yet the creature was obliging & did her best to make us all comfortable'

The village small and located on a large plain covered with low trees of espina [espino, a species of Acacia] and mimosa, with several varieties of myrtle. Seeing plenty of fruit trees in the gardens of 'the few straggling houses'. The road from the port 'tolerably good' for riding on, 'but hardly fit for carts' due to the many canals and holes made by heavy rainfall during the winter season. The country appearing fertile, but little cultivated and thinly inhabited, being used mainly as pasture for cattle ('generally of a good size & fat'), sheep ('many of the latter we noticed had four, & some six horns, with long tails & of no great size themselves, nor either very fat') and mules ('as good as any in the world & can bear great fatigue & hunger, & often undergo long journeys with heavy hide bags of cord [rope] or fruit etc on their backs, who on these occasions have always a mare led by a peon [farmworker or labourer, or a person subject to peonage, unfree labour] before them, with a small bell round the neck. Mares are considered useless in Chile for anything except the breeding of horses & treading the corn to separate it from the starch, & going before droves of mules on journeys to carry the ringing bell for the rest'). Temperature 58°-61°

(26 Oct 1825) A foggy morning. Rising at dawn. Having the horses fed and having breakfast before resuming the journey at 6am. Reaching the first 'cuesta [hill]' at 9am, called Zapata [Cuesta Zapata, Chile], very high with numerous turns on the road and 'one of the finest prospects imaginable' from the top. Continuing along a straight road over a large plain for eight or ten miles. Seeing some high myrtle trees and plenty of 'yellow, sweet-scented' flowering Mimosa, giving the road the 'beautiful appearance of an avenue'. The hills covered with low trees and shrubs, and steep rocks and piles of stones, 'heaped up above each other, as if ready for to tumble down into the valleys below'. The valleys covered with larger woods, mainly composed of Myrtus, Peumus and several shrubby Sygnisea [Syngenesia] plants

Passing the Half-way House Inn, kept by an American called Stewart. The roadsides 'pleasantly covered with sweet-scented flowering trees and shrubs', different from those growing on the coast, including a fine, rambling species of Eccremocarpus with reddish flowers, growing on trees, bushes and hedges, and Calceolaria growing in shady places

Reaching another inn called Curacavi at 10am, kept by a Spaniard called Lopaz. Stopping to feed the horses and to eat breakfast: 'the hostler [ostler] at this paltry inn we found was a young Scotch lad that had run away from some vessel about six months before, & who, as he said, now hired himself for four dollars a month & his board'

Seeing on the busy roads, travelling in carts and on horseback, 'several respectable females […] banished lately by the government, on their way to the port of Valparaiso for Peru. Several of these females we noticed had with them servants in livery & a number of mules loaded with part of their property, & were guarded as prisoners by three or four cavalry soldiers. Their appearance seemed to us defeated & melancholy, & in no hurry on their journey'. Seeing other travellers, including 'the wretched stagecoaches, or rather gigs, established between the port & the city by a few poor foreigners for the convenience of travellers, for which they charge 24 dollars independent of luggage', and the common heavy carts carrying goods to the city, travelling slowly, drawn by four or six oxen. The shafts and wheels of the carts roughly made and heavy, and the sides composed of bamboos or reeds, arched over the top with coarse canvas, and 'for want of grease always make a disagreeable noise'

Passing another inn at noon at Bustamente [?Cerro Bustamante, Chile], a small village at the foot of Cuesta de Prado [Cuesta de lo Prado, Chile]. The road up the mountain containing numerous turnings and the top of the mountain 'pleasantly covered' with low trees, shrubs and 'plenty of good pasture grass'. Descending to the large Mypo Plain [Maipu, Chile] and crossing Mapocho River [Chile]. Seeing the city 10-12 miles away, its high, white steeples mixed with 'luxuriant' trees. Seeing large flocks of sheep on the plain. Not being able to see the Andes [Chile] due to the hazy fog, until near the city, 'when they at once appeared majestically in view everywhere, covered with snow'

Reaching the city at 6pm. McRae staying at the English Tavern, kept by 'a Yorkshire lady, the name of Shields', while his travelling companions staying with English merchants. Everyone 'somewhat tired' after a 60-mile journey. McRae returning to the inn after ensuring his horse was well fed. The landlady showing him into a large room with a long table, 'where twenty or thirty gentlemen dine daily together, chiefly lodgers, after the manner of an ordinary, a number of whom were yet settling after dinner round the table enjoying their glass, & who, on finding me newly come from the port, were very inquisitive to know the news, particularly what vessels had lately arrived & where from, & what their cargo consisted of & so on with an endless number of other questions, which I was obliged to answer the best way I could till they appeared satisfied'

Temperature 58°-64°

(27 Oct 1825) A fine morning. Delivering a letter of introduction to Major Ross [unidentified], 'who I found was a man of the world, & only talked of Chileno families, military men & the travels he had made in the country during the last fourteen years in the Chilean service'. Ross recommending the baths of Colina [Banos de Colina, Chile] for collecting plants, about 35 miles east of the city at the foot of the Cordilleras [Chile]

Hiring 'a guide peon' and mules for carrying his belongings. Spending the day walking around the town, larger and more populated than expected: 'nothing can be more interesting to a stranger' than seeing the snowy mountains rising above the plains, and the gardens, vineyards and cultivated fields, 'plentifully stocked with all kinds of European & other fruit trees, which give so remote an extensive spot a cheerful & pleasant appearance'. Mapocho River [Chile] separating a part of the suburbs from the city, but connected to it by a 'good stone bridge' with seven arches, with 'a large public work called the tajamar or cutwater [dam]', rising for two miles towards the mountains to protect the town from the melting snow waters

The streets regular, similar to Conception [Concepcion], with small canals for conveying water from the river. The houses built of large, unburnt bricks, usually single-storey to withstand the frequent earthquakes. Many of the houses large, with extensive gardens at the back and a paved, square courtyard at the front with an arched gateway, shut with wooden doors at night. The windows commonly glazed and barricaded with painted iron bars, sometimes decorated with 'gold gilt'. Seeing the Director's Palace and the cathedral on the 'great square or placa': 'both extensive public buildings, which are destroyed in their appearance from the other low houses fronting the square, who are chiefly mean retail shops, while the centre is occupied by a poorer class, exposing for sale coarse cloths & a variety of other articles local to the country, such as spurs, wooden stirrups, bridles, saddles, whips, boots & shoes'., The shops resembling 'our basars'. Seeing several large buildings, many richly ornamented with gold and silver, 'notwithstanding the long-disturbed state of the country'

The 'Alameda or public walk [La Alameda], begun in the time of the directorship of O'Higgins [Bernardo O'Higgins, Chilean leader of independence and the Supreme Director of Chile until exiled in 1823]' running for about a mile through the city, not yet finished but 'much frequented' in the cool evening 'by most of the respectable inhabitants, who dress themselves little inferior to those with us who resort to Hyde Park on Sundays'. The avenue having three 'principal walks', separated by small stone canals, with rows of poplar trees on both sides of each canal, stone seats 'cut in shape of sofas, convenient for persons to sit upon them on both sides', and places for carriages and carts on each side: 'the whole if ever once finished, will add greatly to the respectability of the city', and the circular fountain would have 'a pretty effect'. Seeing no evidence of other 'new improvements' for the future by the government, however the new large, two- and three-storey merchants' houses built 'in a superior style to the former houses'

Temperature 56°-61°

(28 Oct 1825) A fine day. The horse not yet sufficiently recovered from the previous day's journey to go to Colina baths [Banos de Colina]. Walking around the town. Visiting the market place by the new bridge at the end of the tajamar. The market 'better supplied' than in Valparaiso, but 'kept without any order or cleanliness'. Seeing barbers' stalls with hot water ('ready to shave the long-bearded peons that come in from the country'), and a shed with rough trellis-work for butchers' meat, 'to be thrown across, to be exposed for sale, cut in large slices, separated from the bones & of a soft reddish black appearance, far from being inviting to eat'. Seeing men and women without stalls selling wares, including seasonable vegetables, bread, corn and flour, and others cooking 'greasy soup for the peons'. The vegetables consisting mainly of cabbage, young onion, potato, lettuce, pea and three or four varieties of kidney bean, 'which the poorer class of Chilenos make into soup & almost live upon nothing else when the watermelons & other fruits are out of season'

Lord B. [George Anson Byron], Christopher Richard Nugent and Henry Rouse arriving at 4pm at the English inn. Byron saying he intended to stay in the city for ten days, and would be able to tell McRae after that when he intended to sail to England. Temperature 57°-60°

(29 Oct 1825) A foggy morning with light rain. Setting off at 6am and arriving at Colina Baths [Banos de Colina] at 3pm. Not seeing any interesting plants on the way across the plain of Mypo [Maipu]. The hills by the plain covered with grass, low shrubs and cactuses. Seeing several cultivated cornfields, and houses and gardens surrounded by 'healthy' fruit trees

The Baths of Colina located at the head of a deep, narrow ravine at the foot of the Cordilleras [Chile], surrounded by 'plenty of good pasturage, thinly wooded with low trees & shrubs'. The temperature of the water supplying the eight small brick baths 84°-89°, popular during the summer due to their 'romantic situation' and proximity to the city, frequented 'by the first families in Chile, who hire small rooms furnished with a couple of long stools & a common table & temporary empty bed places in each for the sum of three quarter dollars a day, including the use of a large room where the company meet every night to dance. The proprietor of the baths takes very little trouble to provide his numerous visitors with suitable refreshments, most families therefore bring with them nearly all the necessaries they think is wanted for the time they intend to remain'. It being early in the season, McRae finding only eight people at the baths, 'nearly all in ill health, excepting three young men, one of whom said his name was Bullard [unidentified], & but a few months out from London, where on his departure he had been made a corresponding member of the H Society, & intended to collect for them all kinds of seeds & plants'. Temperature 58°-61°

(30 Oct 1825) Sunday. A fine morning. Travelling around the neighbourhood. Finding several new plants, including a brown, flowering Calceolaria, a light yellow and a blue flowering Tropaeolum, only growing near the Cordilleras [Chile] and 'some others equally rare'. The sun in the middle of the day 'hot & disagreeable', despite being in sight of snow

On his return to the baths with his collections, 'nearly all the people at the baths kept coming to my little room to see what they called useless things I had been gathering in the heat of the day, who at times could hardly contain themselves from laughing at me, which putting them in paper & eagerly asking me a number of questions to know what I intended to do with them, & whether I was a fisico [doctor] & wanted them for medicinal purposes, as they were sure they would not grow'. Putting the specimens in paper ready for pressing. Dining with Bullard and his two companions and spending the evening with 'our other Spanish friends' playing card games: 'their curiosity to know what profession I belonged to, which to satisfy them we said a botanist, even the proprietor himself was equally surprised with the rest, although a respectable sort of man, & seemed somewhat pleased to think I visited his baths, as he had never [met] any of my description before, & now began to respect me better, as he said I must know something more than common medico [doctor], or then I would not come all the way from Inglaterra [England] to gather the common plants of the campos or fields'

Temperature 56°-66°

(31 Oct 1825) A fine morning. Going to the mountains at dawn. Reaching the snow at 9am and the first summit at 11am. Not seeing much vegetation in the snow. The air 'chilly & the wind rather fresh, yet pleasant', with the temperature in the sun 79° and in the shade 50°. Staying at the summit for nearly an hour admiring the beautiful scenery, the hills and the fields on one side and the Cordilleras [Chile] on the other side: 'the whole looked wild, cold, dreary & barren, with majestic mountains rising irregularly with their peaks above each other back in the interior as far as the eye could reach', the black rock forming a contrast to the snow sparkling in the sun

Seeing different plants from those seen lower down. The ground covered with Scilla and amaryllises, including crocus growing as far as the snowline, and low, prickly barberries and other shrubs, covered with 'the pretty, red, little, creeping Tropaeolum'. The gravelly surfaces of the mountains full of holes made by chinchillas, 'a little grey animal, about double the size of a rat, with a bushy tail, whose furs are of demand in England & other countries'. Noting that his visit to 'this interesting place' was two months too early in the season to find the local plants in flower, everything appearing 'chilly & partly broken & withered', but some bulbous plants and orchids beginning to appear with the melting snow. Finding one orchid in flower, with 'a curious whitish green flower full of dark spots, with long filaments adhering to the edges of the petals'. Finding several other 'interesting' plants on the lower elevations

Returning home at dusk. Discovering that more people had arrived to use the baths, the newcomers 'like the others last night, thought me a strange sort of being for wandering about in the heat of the day after plants, particularly so far as the snow, which they were doubtful to believe till I presented them with a handkerchief full brought home for that purpose, which turned the conversation upon the danger of travelling so far from habitations, as the ravines in the mountains were commonly frequented with lions, who often came down in the winter & took away with them sheep & even at times young calves, which, as I had not seen any of these ferocious animals, I could not well contradict them'. Temperature 50°-60°

(1 Nov 1825) A fine morning. Finding the temperature of the different baths to vary by three or four degrees. Asking for the horses and mules to be brought from the pasture after breakfast. Preparing to leave 'this pleasant spot', having collected those plants that were in flower, and leaving 'the social friends met here, whose society & manners during my short stay was kind & obliging'. Being invited to visit those who lived in the city

Returning to the city at 6pm. Discovering that 'Mr B. [?possibly Charles Blake, a botanist connected with Alexander Cruckshanks and John Miers in Chile], with whom I was acquainted' had arrived from the port. Being told the Waterloo had arrived from Rio [Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] and was intending to sail for England in a month, and they both would be likely to be able to travel together on it. Mr B. offering to accompany McRae to Melipellia [Melipilla, Chile], 18 leagues [62 miles] away, and to the 'celebrated' Aculio Lake [Laguna de Aculeo, Chile]

Several 'English gentlemen' at the inn inquiring McRae's opinion of the Colina baths [Banos de Colina] and the plants in the neighbourhood, and 'what was their uses or benefit at home, when a person of my description was sent so far to collect them in their wild state, which they considered as useless expense, & that the people of England appeared now not to know what to do with their money, or then they would not send me on purpose, as there was no plants in Chile but what was common at home. Three or four of those who expressed themselves so freely as to their knowledge of the plants of the country were commission merchants for our manufacturing towns, & the captain of [a] merchant vessel consigned to one of their houses, who were all equally ignorant of the subject they pretended to be so well acquainted with, which I found useless to enter into argument with them, as their views went little beyond their own profession. I therefore gave them liberty to enjoy their own opinions'

Temperature 59°-68°

(2 Nov 1825) A fine morning. Rising at dawn. Arranging specimens. Setting off after breakfast with Mr B. for Melipillea [Melipilla, Chile]. Seeing 'nothing interesting' for the first 12 miles, apart from some low farmhouses with gardens full of fruit trees, enclosed within thick mud walls, and corn fields fenced with a prickly Mimosa

Reaching the site of the battle of 5 Apr 1818 between 'the Peruvian General Osorio [Mariano de Osorio, commander of the Spanish Royal Army in Peru] & San Martin [Jose Francisco de San Martin y Matorras, also known as Jose de San Martin or El Libertador, Spanish-Argentine general and leader for South American independence] […] [who] fought a most sanguinary battle, with great loss on both sides, which terminated the independence of Chile & completely annihilated the Peruvians [Spaniards], who retreated to the southwards towards Conception [Concepcion], where they were soon after obliged to capitulate [the battle is known as the Battle of Maipu, ending Spanish rule in Chile]. The government are now erecting on this memorable spot a church of nearly 200 feet in length & otherwise large in proportion, which is to be called the Mypo Chapel [Templo Votivo de Maipu]'

The plain thinly inhabited near the road due to 'the sterility of the soil', light, dry and gravelly, resembling a riverbed, with no vegetation apart from some scattered low-growing Mimosa trees, shrubs and short, dry grass. At 2pm, after about 30 miles' journey, the plain becoming more fertile and more inhabited, with numerous water canals, 'brought for a considerable distance with great labour & some ingenuity from the River Mypo [Maipu River, Chile] to irrigate the cornfields & gardens'. These irrigation systems common in Chile due to the hot, dry summers, their construction and upkeep occupying much of the farmers' time

Passing some palm trees and arriving by 6pm at Mapocho River [Chile], running from the city at the foot of the hills on the western side of the plain and joining a larger river of the same name. Passing St Francesco del Monte [El Monte, Chile], a village 'very pleasantly situated' on both sides of the road to Melipillea [Melipilla, Chile], with numerous vineyards, orchards, gardens and cornfields in a fertile valley between two green mountain ranges. The local people standing in their doorways looking at the visitors: '[they were] meanly dressed in comparison to those we had left in the city, & otherwise poor & retired, without much employment, excepting their little agriculture & wine-making'. Passing through a small square with an old, low, shabby church and a canal running through the centre: 'it happened to be the time in the evening to ring the bell for tiempo de oracion [prayer time], when like the others present, we remained quiet with our hats off for two or three minutes, until the change of sound gave notice that the prayer was concluded'

Leaving the village. The dark descending, with three more leagues [nine miles] to Melipillea [Melipilla, Chile]. After asking at several houses, finding lodgings at a house by the road with grass for the horses. Being given a 'large dishful of casuela, or greasy soup, made of a fowl cut up in pieces, boiled with potatoes, onions & garlic & tallow fat, which on skimming off the oil at top, we then made a comfortable supper, while the elder people of the family were enjoying their favourite mattee [mate] or the Paraguay tea, of which the Chilenos are passionately fond. Before infusion it has a yellow colour, & is partly broken or chopped, with flavour resembling that of fine tea. They make the mattee in small oval-shaped metal or earthen pot about a little more than twice the size of an egg, placed nearly full of water on the hot embers of the brazier, which stands at all seasons of the year in the middle of the sitting room. When the water begins to boil, a lump of sugar burnt on the outside is added. The pot is then removed to a filigree silver stand, on which it is handed round to the guests & the family, who drain the mattee into their mouths through a small silver pipe, seven or eight inches long, furnished at the lower end with a bulb pierced with small holes. The natives drink it almost boiling hot, which very often cost strangers many a tear before they can imitate them in this respect. The tub is never changed lest the company be ever so numerous, & to decline taking mattee because the tub had been previously used, would be the highest of rudeness'

Wanting to leave their own horses on the pasture to rest until their return, and asking for horses to ride to Melipillea the following day. The 'old man of the family' taking them at 11pm to an old barn for the night. Falling asleep on a bullock's hide spread on the floor with their saddles as pillows, tired after nearly 50 miles' journey. Temperature 60°-68°

(3 Nov 1825) A fine morning. Rising at dawn 'after being nearly eat [eaten] up with fleas'. Setting off at 6am and arriving at Melipillea [Melipilla, Chile] at 9am. A 'respectable lady of the name of Dona Lorenza Fuensalida [Mariana Moran Fuenzalida, wife of lawyer Don Lorenzo Fuenzalida]' allowing them to leave their horses at her house, and giving them breakfast of tea, coffee, eggs and beef steaks, 'served up on silver plate, besides good wine of her own making'

Going to see the potteries ('as Melipillea bears the first name for the manufacture of earthenware'), but finding only a few small kilns and 'one or two poor, ragged men or women at, some of them, pounding the clay with a piece of wood for use, & without any ready-made ware by them'. The town divided into 'quadras, or solid squares, by streets crossing one another at right angles'. The houses flat-roofed, white-washed and much smaller than in Santiago and lacking the 'neat parapet running along the front'. The streets growing grass, and covered with mud and pools of water in many places due to the neglect of the numerous canals running through the town. Many of the buildings and the mud walls around the gardens 'in total ruins, & only show the impoverished alteration of the present times'. The town small and 'dull, [but] pleasantly situated' at the end of the Mypo Plain [Maipu], surrounded by green hills and plenty of vineyards, orchards, gardens and fertile cornfields, with the large, rapid stream of Mypo [Maipu River] running through the valley. The town 'has also a governor (Valdez) [Don T. Valdez, governor of Melipilla], a church & a national school for educating boys, who are instructed by the clergyman of the place'

The population of the town being almost 8,000 people, with the chief employment being agriculture, wine-making and fruit-growing: 'nothing can be more interesting to persons fond of gardening than a journey through most parts of Chile during the summer season when the trees are seen loaded with fruit above their strength to support them, yet they are seldom grafted or budded, nor even pruned with the knife, but are suffered to raise themselves from seed & left afterwards to grow without attention, farther than irrigation when the weather is hot & dry'. Many of the pear and walnut trees growing up to 50 feet, and fig trees to 30-40 feet with wide, spreading branches, and 'large & excellent' fruit, growing by the roadsides, 'without enclosures to prevent travellers from taking what they want as they pass them'. Seeing a 'civil officer, who had a boy with him beating on a drum, going through most of the streets reading a paper, which contained a proclamation from the director of state informing the inhabitants to draw up a petition for the government stating whatever alterations they wanted to be made in the lands of the country, & not to rise in arms like the inhabitants of Valparaiso'

Returning at 2pm to the previous night's lodgings. Continuing the journey with their horses at 3pm for Aculio Lake [Laguna de Aculeo, Chile]. Having to stop after 11 miles due to the heat, at a 'miserable, poor hut' for the night: 'this family, like the other last night, made us the same mess for our supper, but instead of using fresh tallow fat to enrich it, they substituted a couple of inches of the bottom end of the candle burning before at the time, which we considered prudent not to interfere with them in their own mode of cooking, but to skim the fat at the top when it came before us to eat, & try to make it as palatable as we could'. Temperature 58°-70°

(4 Nov 1825) A fine morning. Continuing the journey shortly after dawn. Reaching Mypo River [Maipu River] at 8am. The river 'considerably swollen' due to the melting snow on the mountains. Having trouble finding a crossing, without a road to guide them and the river running in numerous rocky streams

Being overtaken by two English merchants from Valparaiso on their way to the baths of Cauquines [Cauquenes, Chile] 'for the good of their health', with several mules for their luggage and 'a few natives' to guide them to good places to cross: 'two or three of these always lead the way, keeping the mules' heads up towards the stream, which often took our horses above the saddle girths'. After a successful crossing, parting with the merchants and entering a fertile, cultivated plain used as pasture for 'some thousand head of cattle' and sheep. Passing through a 'pleasant' village, Valdivea [Valdivia de Paine], separated from another 'equally pleasant' village by Angustura River [Angostura River, Chile]. Both of the villages filled with fruit gardens and vineyards, and wheat and barley fields. Procuring from a farmhouse 'some boiled milk & rice, with a little bread' for breakfast

Crossing the river again about two miles from the village at 2pm. Stopping at the farmhouse of Don Jose Toribio [Jose Toribio de Larrain y Guzman, marquess of Larrain, politician and military officer in Chile], 'cousin to the marquess of Larrain, & owner of the lands around Aculio Lake [Laguna de Aculeo, Chile]'. Resting in the 'oppressive heat', the horses feeding on grass and the travellers quenching their thirst with wine. Despite being 'civilly treated', resuming the journey at 4pm in cooler and more pleasant weather, eager to reach the lake three leagues [nine miles] away before the evening

The road to the lake leading through grassy, enclosed parks with cattle and sheep, dense forests, lakes and marshes, rendering the road 'extremely bad'. The scenery 'magnificent & romantic beyond description' on approaching the lake, located between two high, green mountain ranges. Arriving at the lake at dusk and having no time to continue farther down to two islands in the lake, 'much frequented by flamingos'. Seeing different kinds of water fowl in the lake, 'remarkably tame & [they] suffered us to approach them close, while sitting picking their feathers by the edge of the water'. Seeing numerous black-headed and white-bodied swans, smaller than those in England, and several kinds of ducks, many of them beautiful

Seeing on the side of the lake 'a few straggling, poor huts with little patches of cultivation near them, & some few fruit trees'. Receiving permission to lodge at one for the night. Leaving their horses in a small, enclosed field. Don Jose Toribio visiting them and talking about the politics of Chile and Peru, saying that 'more than once [...] he had made up his mind not to interfere with the government of his country, but remain quiet on his estate, & that he was now come so far tonight to sleep at [a] temporary hut of his own with some of his servants, for the purpose of getting on the hills early in the morning to count his cattle, of which he had several thousands'

Being 'surprised to find the family had managed to make up good beds for us in a shed of reeds & wood outside the house at one end, owing probably from noticing their landlord so familiar with us both during the evening, who, while he remained, kept continually smoking his segars [cigar] & from his address & manner of behaviour, he appeared to be a person of good education & quite the polished gentleman, much taken up with his farm, secluded from society on account of the unsettled state of his native country, which he seemed to respect. In age he might be a few years above thirty'. Temperature 59°-70°

(5 Nov 1825) A fine, but chilly morning with a heavy dew. Leaving 'this pleasant, romantic spot' at dawn for the city, 'without making any collection for want of time, although the neighbouring hills were everywhere encouraging for a person of my description, & the lake itself full of birds of interesting variety, worthy of my attention for several days, if I did no other than remain to have the pleasure of seeing them here in a state of nature, so tame & without fear of mankind, that it would be cruelty to deprive any of them of their lives for the sake of skins'

Crossing the river at 8am. Seeing by the roadside 'two old matrons milking cows in bullocks' horns, which were not very clean, like the English milkmaids' pail'. Arriving at the marquis de Larrain's [marquess of Larrain] house. Being shown his small garden, 'neatly laid out in clumps for flowers, with several rosemary bushes cut out into various figures, such as men on horseback, peacocks & other birds'. Seeing next to the flower garden a large orchard with regularly planted rows of various kinds of trees. Seeing at one end of the house a large square surrounded by a wall, with several sheds for drying jerk beef, produced 'in quantity nearly double to any other person in Chile', with 12,000 cattle, numerous horses and large flocks of sheep. The house one storey high, around three sides of the square, the front paved with small stones and 'kept neat & clean'. The marquis being 'out on his farm'. Seeing long rows of poplar trees

Continuing the journey over a fertile, densely inhabited plain. Seeing numerous orchards and gardens enclosed with mud walls, the fields surrounded by walls made from the prickly branches of Mimosa. Deciding to stop for a rest after 11 miles, 'by the persuasion of my companion, who could not endure the heat, but with whom I wished to keep on good terms, although considered the delay unnecessary, especially as I was anxious to be in the city this evening'

Arriving at a farmhouse. Meeting the owner, 'a decent sort of man', who asked many questions before offering any assistance with the horses, 'which tried my patience so much after remaining for nearly an hour, that I continued my journey to Santiago without Mr B., who I found now did not intend to quit his quarters till tomorrow morning'

The farm, with several hundred cattle in a fold near the house, 'which he was about to kill a number of, & are taken by the peons with the laso [lasso] on horseback, which deserves some description of it'. The lassos being made of strips of 15-20 yard long untanned leather, with a noose at one end, and the other end fastened with a button to a ring in a strong belt or girth bound around the horse: 'the coil is grasped by the horseman's left hand, [of] which the noose, which is held in the right hand, trails along the ground, except when in use, & then is wheeled round the head with considerable velocity during which by a peculiar turn of the wrist it is made to assume a circular form, so that when thrown from the hand, the noose keeps itself open till it falls over the object at which it has been aimed. The peons with precision can fix the laso on any part they please, whether over the horns, round the neck or body, or even one leg or two or any one of the four, with such ease & certainty, that it is necessary to witness that to have a true conception of their skill, which like that of the savage Indian with his bow & arrow can only be imitated by themselves. The use of the laso is early practiced by the boys on cats & dogs, who are unfortunate to come in their way, till of age to mount on horseback, which is generally very soon'

After about six miles, seeing several mules slowly crossing a rope bridge, 'swinging in a frightful manner' over the rapid Mypo River [Maipu River]. The bridge consisting of a narrow walkway built of sticks laid across the ropes, suspended by lines of hide from a set of three thicker ropes on each side of the bridge, and secured on each side of the river to piles of wood: 'the span underneath is little short of 200 feet, & the bridge itself so elastic that it waved up & down, & vibrated from side to side in so alarming a manner when I entered upon it to lead my horse across, that I felt doubtful of its strength, & got one of the peons to take over my horse first'. Managing to cross the bridge, 'not altogether free from alarm, till I got on the sure ground again, which did not pass unperceived by the numerous peons, who enjoyed it heartily'

The roadsides continuing to appear well cultivated and densely inhabited, with enclosed gardens until reaching the gravelly plain of Mypo [Maipu], about eight miles from Santiago. The reed huts becoming smaller and further apart, 'most of them without doors, excepting hides to secure them at nights'. Asking at one of the huts for a drink of water. Seeing a young woman grinding corn in a small mill, made of two stones, 'one larger, grooved & placed on the ground, the other polished, & about twice the size of her hand. The unground corn appeared to be roasted, & would crumble between the finger & thumb. The flour was coarse & dark in colour, but made tolerable good bread, some of which was given me to eat'. Seeing 'several of the inhabitants riding out in the cool of the evening on fine horses, while mine, for want of food all day, was scarcely able to trot'. Arriving at the inn at 5pm. Temperature 54°-76°

(6 Nov 1825) Sunday. A fine morning. Arranging specimens from the Colina Baths [Banos de Colina] and finding many of them damp and mouldy, 'but not past recovery'. Meeting Lord B. [George Anson Byron] in the evening in the Almeda walk [La Alameda] with Christopher Henry Nugent, Henry Rouse, Thomas Maling and other friends. The avenue crowded with 'well-dressed people, & a number of calesas [horse carriage], who had in them beautiful & elegantly dressed females'. Byron telling MacRae he was waiting for the overland mail, expected within a few days, and was then intending to leave the city within a week and to sail to England around mid-November. Temperature 60°-70°

(7 Nov 1825) A fine, foggy morning. Going on St Christopher's Hill [San Cristobal Hill, Chile] to collect plants at dawn, having been told he could find roses growing wild there, and '& most of the other plants in Chile', but not finding any new plants. The hill, almost 2,000 feet high, 'commands a delightful view of the town & the surrounding country for sixty or seventy miles distant, which is grand & picturesque beyond description'

Returning to town in the afternoon. Finding Henry Talbot waiting for him, asking McRae to join him on a trip to the Combre [Uspallata Pass, also known as Cumbre Pass], about 100 miles east of Santiago, 'the highest pass over the Cordilleras [Chile] on the road to Mendoza [Argentina]', and to return to Valparaiso by Qillota [Quillota, Chile]. McRae promising to join Talbot on the 'interesting' journey' instead of making short excursions from the city. Temperature 58°-68°

(8 Nov 1825) A fine day. Going to see 'the mint & printing department [...] an extensive, modern building of two storeys, with numerous apartments & some machinery for coining, but on account of the disturbed state of the country & the poverty of the government, there has been no money stamped here for some time, & at present have only a few mechanics employed to look after the stamps & machinery. The printing office is chiefly confined to public papers of no great interest. There is in the same department also a library & a college for young students intended for the law or divinity, &, at several of the convents, schools for the education of their children'

Packing up all the seeds, specimens and traps to be sent to the port. Hiring a guide for the journey. Temperature 60°-68°

(9 Nov 1825) A rainy morning. Not being able to leave until 10am. Passing the Colina Baths [Banos de Colina] at noon. The country barren, with low shrubs and cactuses growing on the hills. The plains thinly inhabited, with patches of corn fields and small gardens, and prickly Mimosa trees. Climbing the winding road on the cuesta ('or high hill') of Chacabuco [Cuesta Chacabuco, Chile] and gaining the summit at dusk. The wind on the top 'fresh & chilly' and the temperature 44°. Continuing downhill for another two or three leagues [6-9 miles], travelling slowly in the dark on an uneven, stony road

Arriving at St Rosa [Los Andes, Chile] at 11pm. Having difficulty finding lodgings and food for the horses, having to 'wander from house to house for two hours'. Finding the house of 'a respectable man, who on finding we were Englishmen & strangers, politely offered to accommodate us with a room, & apologised for not being able to give us any sort of bed to sleep upon'. Telling the man where they had come from and why they were travelling: 'he then ordered his servants to give us refreshment, & informed us that his name [was] Don Gaspar Mario, lately exiled by the government to Mendoza [Argentina], & was only waiting here for a few weeks until the passage on the Cordilleras [Chile] got more open & warm, being old & in ill health. His conversation was so interesting & his own appearance dull & melancholy, that we did not retire to sleep on the hard floor till nearly daylight, although we had during the day been on horseback for more than twelve hours, & had rode upwards of sixty miles'. Temperature 44°-70°

(10 Nov 1825) A fine day. Staying all day at St Rosa [Los Andes], hiring mules and a new guide, familiar with the rest of the journey. Having to get a passport 'from the commandant or governor (Acosta), to pass us at the guards or guard-house, where a few soldiers are stationed'. Not finding mules 'at a reasonable sum' until the evening. Buying other necessary provisions for the journey

The town located in a deep valley at the entrance of the pass over the Cordilleras [Chile]. The town resembling Melipillea [Melipilla, Chile] with its low, white-washed mud houses, 'but is a third less in size, & perhaps the same in number of inhabitants', with a governor, a school and a church, but no soldiers. The valley bordered on one side by the high mountains of Cordilleras, covered with snow, and a smaller range of green hills on the other side. The valley itself sheltered, '& nothing can exceed the richness of the soil, & the fruitful, magnificent appearance of the numerous vineyards, orchards & gardens, who here produce fruits of all kinds, beyond description'. The inhabitants mostly poor, '& chiefly subsist by the traffic on the road leading through the valley'. The Rio Villanueva [Aconcagua River, Chile] large and rapid, passing near the town between St Rosa and the old town of Anconchua or St Felepe [San Felipe, Chile], 'said to be very ancient', and larger than St Rosa, located about two leagues [six miles] away. Temperature 56°-65°

(11 Nov 1825) A fine morning. Rising at dawn and continuing the journey for the Combre [Uspallata Pass, also known as Cumbre Pass]. Leaving behind the old guide to take care of the horses until their return. Passing an old rope bridge across Rio Villanueva [Aconcagua River] about half a mile from the town, similar to that seen on the Mypo River [Maipu River]. Continuing for two or three leagues [6-9 miles] along the river. Crossing the river by a narrow, decayed wooden bridge, supported by rocks at each end. Heading into the hills and travelling on a narrow, rugged road along the lower slopes of the mountains near the river, 'much torn by the torrents from the hills & full of stones & rocks'. Low trees and shrubs growing on the riversides and on the steep hills, with the vegetation ceasing further up the hills, and the peaks assuming 'a dark brown appearance, with now & then a solitary bird seen resting upon them'. Continuing by the river for several leagues. Passing several 'wretched' huts with 'a few poor inhabitants'

Crossing Rio Colorado [Chile] by an old, decayed bridge. Habitation ceasing. Stopping for breakfast for two hours and setting the mules loose to feed. Collecting several new plants and seeds. Resuming the journey at 3pm. Meeting 'the Buenesayres [Buenos Aires, Argentina] mail, out five days from Mendoza [Argentina] & 25 from Buenesayres. The bags were secured on a mule, & accompanied by two hardy-looking men, who at the time we met them were travelling at low pace'

Reaching the first 'casucha or guard-house, where formerly a few soldiers stopped at to receive passports from persons crossing the Cordilleras from Chile', the station being now located near St Rosa [Los Andes]. The mud-built casucha containing 'two separate apartments' and a grass-thatched roof, but no doors. Their guide unwilling to continue the journey that night. McRae collecting plants until dark, and finding the plants 'very interesting' despite the season being too early for them to be in flower. Seeing plenty of Stereoxylon growing by a small rivulet, and amaryllises, Alstromeria [Alstroemeria], myrtle and Lopezia [here the list includes five more plants]: 'vegetation this far was now confined to no great distance from the Rio Blanco [Chile]', the shrubs in general being small and with 'a broken appearance from the weight of snow lying upon them during the winter'. Seeing water streaming down the mountains from the snow-covered tops. Temperature 56°-64°

(12 Nov 1825) A fine but chilly morning. The temperature in the morning 50° and the temperature of the water flowing from the mountains 47°. Continuing the journey, after 'the peon had collected the mules at daybreak', over a rugged road. Reaching another casucha at 7am, built of bricks with a flight of steps to the door, built high enough to prevent the snow from blocking it: 'there are several of these casuchas within a few miles of one another for the convenience of travellers, & [they] are all arched over at top & resemble small vaults'

Travelling on the snow, with the road only occasionally visible. Eventually being obliged to dismount and continue on foot 'on account of the mules sinking above their bellies at every step'. Leaving the mules behind, having observed them trembling with fear and exertion. Reaching the summit at noon. Meeting 'several peons with horses and mules', who had travelled for five days from Mendoza [Argentina], 'one of which had on his back a small leather box with three [or] four small holes in it, where now & then handsome small, green paraquets [parakeet] kept chattering with their heads through them'. Seeing no vegetation on the summit, but the views of the 'majestic', snow-covered mountains 'magnificent'

Returning after half an hour for the mules, 'regretting for not having it in our power to reach Mendoza, after getting this far to the highest pass over the Cordilleras [Chile]'. Not seeing any new plants. Passing the guard-house of the previous night at 4pm. Continuing for another three leagues [nine miles] before stopping for the night under trees near Rio Blanco, about 21 miles from St Rosa [Los Andes]. Temperature 50°-58°

(13 Nov 1825) Sunday. A fine but chilly morning. Rising at dawn to continue the journey. Stopping for breakfast at St Rosa [Los Andes] at 1pm. Continuing the journey at 3pm for Qillota [Quillota] through the valley of St Roque [San Roque, Chile]. Passing the town of St Felepe [San Felipe, Chile]. Seeing an old, broken stone bridge over Rio Villanueva [Aconcagua River] ('or rather the continuation of the Rio Colorado & Rio Blanco'), the river overflowing the plains at times. Crossing some smaller streams. Seeing several plants of a 'strong, dwarf Mimulus with large yellow flowers, spotted brown'

Entering the valley between two ranges of hills, and Rio Blanco winding its course down the middle. The banks of the river densely inhabited and fertile, the richness of the soil 'exceeding any other part which I had seen in Chile', with grapevines 'spontaneously rambling over trees & hedges'. Seeing numerous orchards, gardens and 'luxuriant' cornfields. Stopping at a farmhouse at dusk by the road for Qillota, with plenty of grass for the horses. Sleeping in a barn on hides, with 'a little bread & wine for supper'. Temperature 54°-67°

(14 Nov 1825) A foggy, chilly morning. Rising before dawn. After having the horses saddled, continuing the journey, expecting to reach the Port of Valparaiso in the evening. Crossing a low cuesta [?Cuesta las Chilcas, Chile] and entering Llaylly Plain [Llay-Llay, Chile], 'thinly inhabited & little cultivated'. Seeing cattle, horses and sheep grazing. The plain marshy in many places, making travelling difficult. Rising over another cuesta at 11am and entering the fertile, cultivated Ocono Plain [Ocoa Valley, Chile]. Seeing 'several mean farm huts & poor inhabitants' by the river. Reaching a high cuesta at noon, 'little inferior to the celebrated cuesta of Chacabuco [Cuesta Chacabuco, Chile]', with low trees and shrubs. The view from the summit 'most beautiful'. Having to walk despite the hot sun, as the road was narrow and steep, 'not altogether safe to ride'

Arriving at the town of Qillota [Quillota] at 3pm, 'much fatigued and hungry, having had nothing to eat all day, & travelled more than forty miles'. Enquiring after 'an Englishman [of] the name of Grimwood [John Raymond Desse Grimwood], who kept an inn, whose house we found with some difficulty & tried to hire horses for to take us to Valparaiso tonight, & leave our horses with the guide to follow the following morning'. The landlord recommending they stay for the night, as they would not be able to reach the city 30 miles away on the bad road before dark. Being served a 'good dinner [...] set before us after the manner of [our] own country, & at night we enjoyed the comforts of a good bed without the annoyance of fleas, as we had been lately accustomed to'

The town located on a large plain, about 20 miles from the coast, surrounded by high hills. The town extending three or four miles in length, 'but of no great breadth', with a high road running through the centre. Nearly all of the largest buildings had been destroyed by an earthquake in 1822. The town having a governor, 'a few soldiers' and several churches, two of them in ruins, and almost the same number of inhabitants as Valparaiso. The valley well-cultivated, with rich soil and numerous vineyards, orchards and gardens, 'but not so interesting in romantic appearance'. The cornfield and gardens irrigated by Rio Blanco, running through the valley near the town. The landlord telling McRae he was 'the son of the late Grimwood, nurseryman [Daniel Grimwood], now Malcolm & Gray [nursery in London] near Kensington, the title deeds of which he produced to strength [strengthen] his assertion'. Temperature 56°-72°

(15 Nov 1825) A fine morning. Rising at dawn and continuing the journey. Reaching the long, sandy beach of Vincha Mar [Vina del Mar, Chile] at 11am. Seeing a 'few straggling houses', with red clay hills rising behind. Coming in sight of the ships anchored in the port at noon, forming 'a lively, interesting scene'. Arriving at Valparaiso at 2pm. McRae's companion leaving to go on board the ship. The landlord of his inn saying that 'himself & Mr Cummings [Hugh Cuming] had took my luggage (sent from Santiago, according to my request, & have all my specimens & seeds collected there) to the person who I had with me at Conception [Concepcion], to dry them as I had given him direction when I left Valparaiso'. Temperature 60°-65°

(16 Nov 1825) A fine day. Arranging specimens. Visiting Hugh Cuming and receiving some Amaryllis roots from Coquimbo [Chile]. General Freire [Ramon Freire Serrano], 'the Supreme Director of Chile' arriving from Santiago at dusk with a small cavalry, 'for to embark soon to take possession of the island of Chiloe [Chiloe Island, Chile] with several thousand men, who are on their march from the capital for the port'. Temperature 61°-64°

(17 Nov 1825) A fine day. Visiting Alexander Cruckshanks and finding the boxes in good condition. Cruckshanks intending to take Mrs Miers [Annie Place Miers, wife of John Miers, botanist and merchant in Valparaiso] over the Cordilleras to Mendoza [Argentina], her husband being in England, and promising to collect any seeds and plants that had not been in flower during McRae's visit

Visiting Mr Caldcleugh [Alexander Caldcleugh, merchant and plant collector in Valparaiso], who had recently arrived from Coquimbo, '& is much against my intentions of going home so soon without having an opportunity of seeing more of Chile, which he said was in his power to facilitate with little expense to the Society from his having vessels chartered at his own command, in the employ of the company, who at times touch at several ports on the coast, & would give me a passage at any time when I wished'. Temperature 61°-63°

(18 Nov 1825) A fine day. The troops for Chiloe [Chiloe Island, Chile] arriving from Santiago to board their ships: 'these troops consisted of a part of three rigments [regiment], in number, I was told by one of their officers, about 250 men, many of whom were raw recruits & only boys, who were more calculated to carry a publican's beer tray than a musket. The greater part of two rigments were wretchedly clothed in the extreme, & had only sandals to their feet. General Freire's [Ramon Freire Serrano] own troop of cavalry, about fifty in number, as his bodyguards, are tolerably well clothed in red jackets with helmet caps'

Going on board the Blonde. George Anson Byron saying he intended to sail in about ten days, and, McRae having remained in Chile for longer than originally intended, 'he strongly recommended me to return with him to England, which as I had never received any letters from home since I left, my mind was in consequence generally unsettled how to act for the best. Therefore, after having some conversation on the subject, I then at last gave my consent to his lordship to return with him to England', promising to have his plant boxes and other belongings on board by 26 Nov. Temperature 62°-67°

(19 Nov 1825) A foggy morning. Arranging specimens and seeds. Writing to Mr Sabine [Joseph Sabine, secretary of the Horticultural Society of London], intending to send the letter by the overland mail the following day with Alexander Caldcleugh's letters. Delivering the letter to Caldcleugh in the evening. Hearing about 'the whole particular circumstance relative to the publication of G. Don [George Don, Horticultural Society plant collector, at that time in dispute with the Society over the publication of his findings; for the papers of George Don, 1821-1824, see RHS/Col/2] & other matters that were at the time very interesting to me, on account of my never receiving any letters or news from home'. Temperature 63°-64°

(20 Nov 1825) A foggy morning. Arranging specimens and seeds. Visiting Alexander Caldcleugh in the evening to ask if there were any letters from London for him on the ship Active, 'with miners & machinery on board from the company'. Caldcleugh expressing surprise at the absence of letters from Joseph Sabine, 'as Mr S. used formerly, when he was in Chile, to write him nearly every month'

The 'naval patriot officers' refusing to accept two months' pay from the government, as they were due several more, 'which they wish to be paid up by the marine department, the same as General Freire [Ramon Freire Serrano] had done with the army before their marching from the capital'. The streets crowded all day and night with naval and military officers, 'whose mean appearance of dress show their present wretched condition for not being paid regularly by the government'. Temperature 63°-64°

(21 Nov 1825) A foggy morning. Going to say goodbye to Alexander Cruckshanks, who was leaving for Mendoza [Argentina], and to arrange for him to become a correspondent for the Society. Going to the hills to collect plants in the afternoon. Hearing reports that 'the Chilean Admiral Blanco [Manuel Blanco Encalada, vice-admiral in the Chilean Navy]' had resigned as a commander of the squadron, as a result of the officers and men under his command having not been paid

A marine soldier on board the Blonde accidentally falling overboard and drowning: 'his body of course [was] not afterwards found', but in his knapsack was found a silver watch belonging to one of the Sandwich Islanders, given to them by the king of England, 'with his arms engraved on the back, which was stolen on board on the passage out to Rio de Janeiro [Brazil]. There was also, besides the watch, found in the knapsack two or three gold rings, which had been stolen from the officers & missing for some time'. Temperature 60°-63°

(22 Nov 1825) A fine day. Going to the hills south of the port to collect plants for the empty boxes at Hugh Cuming's garden, 'who could not afford me any earth, & had to him several donkeys to bring it in hide-bags from the valleys near the town'. The 'naval patriot officers' still refusing to work until they get paid, 'which puzzles the Supreme Director & his confidential advisors, & is said to cost the government 500 dollars a day for demurrage demanded by the contractor, who supplies them with transports. It is also commonly reported the Director wants the commanders of the ships, who have all been paid up & received more in advance, to sail with the expedition without their officers'. Temperature 60°-62°

(23 Nov 1825) A hazy morning. Rising at dawn. Going to the hills to collect more plants to finish a box left with Alexander Cruckshanks, 'but from the pressing nature of his own business, he neglected to plant it as he of himself promised to do during my absence, & is now left for Mendoza [Argentina]'. The hills now in the summer season 'getting as hard as brick', with the leaves of plants falling off and the plants withering. Meeting George Anson Byron and Mr N. [Christopher Henry Nugent]. Byron offering to get McRae permission to see the collections 'made by the two French ships on a voyage of discovery, come in last night from the East Indies [south and south-east Asia] & last from the coast of New Holland [Australia], & out from France nearly twenty months'. Temperature 60°-66°

(24 Nov 1825) A foggy morning. Packing in preparation for going on board the ship. The Chilean naval officers 'still hold with murmurs for their full pay that is due them. It is said the squadron will sail tomorrow. During last night there was several men pressed [impressment was the practice of taking men into the naval force by compulsion] on shore, out of the grog shops & other places'. Temperature 60°-63°

(25 Nov 1825) Preparing to go on board the ship. Temperature 60°-65°

(26 Nov 1825) A fine, but hazy day. Going to get a box of shells from Hugh Cuming from his collection, for the Society. In the afternoon, 'put up for Mr Nugent [Christopher Richard Nugent] 36 parcels of Araucaria seeds to [send] home by the Blonde. Twelve of these were in sugar, & the same number in sand, the others in paper to try the experiment, which was the most likely to vegetate the best on their arrival in England'. Temperature 62°-66°

(27 Nov 1825) A fine morning. Going to the hills above the town to collect more plants and seeds. Several salutes fired by the different ships in the harbour for the Director [Supreme Director of Chile] visiting the English and French ships to meet the commanders. The Director intending to sail at 4pm for his expedition to Chiloe [Chiloe Island, Chile] with the squadron on the Chilean admiral ship the O'Higgins, despite having to leave behind one of the ships with about 500 troops on board, due to 'its decayed state. The naval officers, who held out so long for their pay, was obliged to sail at last with four months due them, & some eight, which disappointed many of them, that had ordered new uniforms to sail on the expedition without them, for want of having money to pay the tailor, who did not feel inclined to give them credit'. Temperature 63°-66°

(28 Nov 1825) A fine day. Going to Alexander Cruckshanks' to arrange for the plant boxes to be taken on board the ship. Packing up the rest of his belongings, but being unable to arrange a boat until the following day. The Chilean squadron still in the bay, their crews assisting the ship left behind, 'to get up her anchor, which after much trouble they succeeded'. The squadron sailing in the afternoon. Temperature 63°-66°

(29 Nov 1825) A fine morning. Going on board the ship after breakfast with the plant boxes. A ship from London arriving in the port with miners and machinery, 'who have neither mines or any settlement to go to reside at. The English merchants in Chile enjoy some mirth at their expense for [coming] so far on speculation without having mines to work'. Temperature 64°-70°

(30 Nov 1825) A hazy morning. Not being able to leave the port in case the Blonde sailed. Meeting Mr Bullard from the Baths of Colina [Banos de Colina], who was intending to sail to Peru on the Active. Bullard giving McRae a few specimens for the Society, collected at Nasa Bay on Cape Horn [Nassau Bay, Cape Horn, Chile] four months ago. Temperature 63°-69°

(1 Dec 1825) A fine day. Going on board with Mr B. [?Charles Blake] 'who had been on the journey with me to Melipillea [Melipilla, Chile]' and Bullard, both wanting to see the Blonde and 'some of our curiosities from the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii]'. Returning on shore in the evening. Temperature 64°-65°

(2 Dec 1825) A fine day. His lordship [George Anson Byron] not wanting to sail on a Friday, 'on account of its being considered by sailors an unlucky day'. Purchasing items for the journey. Visiting Mr Hill [?Henry Hill, American merchant and former consul in Valparaiso] in the afternoon to collect two plants from his garden. Seeing 'the largest grapevine I had even seen' in front of Hill's house, the stem measuring up to three feet in circumference, apparently more than 100 years old, producing bunches of fruit weighing 30lbs: 'this strong grapevine is of the white kind, the fruit of which I recommended, when it again produced more unusual sized bunches, to be sent home to the Society in spirits for their inspection'. Going on board the ship in the evening, 'for good', the ship intending to sail the following morning 'with on board 40,000 dollars belonging to the commissioner (Mr Caldcleugh [Alexander Caldcleugh]), for the use of the company at Coquimbo'. Temperature 63°-64°

(3 Dec 1825) A hazy morning. Sailing at 10am. A French frigate anchoring in the harbour at 11am. Staying in the bay until 4pm. Alexander Caldcleugh coming on board as a passenger for Coquimbo. Sailing with a light south-westerly wind. Temperature 62°-64°

(4 Dec 1825) A fine morning with moderate south-easterly breezes. Standing on and off the land for the night near Coquimbo. Temperature 59°-63°

(5 Dec 1825) A fine, but hazy morning with a light north-westerly wind. Sailing for the 'barren & mountainous' land at dawn. Anchoring at 10am in seven fathoms of water in Coquimbo Bay. Firing a salute and receiving a response from the shore. Going on shore with Alexander Caldcleugh, George Anson Byron and two others to the 'Companies' establishment' in the town of Sierena [La Serena, Chile]. The town consisting of 'a few straggling mud & reed huts, excepting the commandants', which is something better than the rest. As we landed, the peons had plenty of horses ready saddled for to hire to take us up to the city, three leagues [nine miles] from the port'. Travelling for two hours on a sandy road by the beach. Seeing low shrubs growing on the sand, but no grass or trees except in the gardens

More of the 'gentlemen on board' coming on shore to go to the mines the following day. McRae receiving his 'things for collecting'. Going with Mr Forder ('my former old acquaintance, who I had not seen since I left Valparaiso for Conception [Concepcion]') to search for lodgings. Finding a place to stay at an American carpenter's house, 'a civil, accommodating sort of man, but who had no beds in his house for strangers, & [we] was therefore obliged to sleep on chairs for the night'. Temperature 59°-62°

(6 Dec 1825) A fine, but hazy morning. Rising at dawn. Hiring a horse to go to the mines and setting off after breakfast with a company of 'nine in number, besides peons & several mules to carry provisions etc'. Crossing the Seirena [Elqui River, Chile], a large river with the water reaching above the saddles of the horses on crossing the numerous divided streams. The country hilly and sandy, covered with 'low, interesting shrubs, that are nearly all different to those met with more to the southward'. The mines located north-east of the city, 45 miles away, about 6,000 feet above sea level. Not reaching the mines until the evening as a result of the bad road and hot sun tiring the horses

Examining 'six or eight of these silver mines, belonging nearly all to separate persons', each with a small hole and a mud or reed hut for accommodation 'of a few persons employed, who break the lumps of blasted rock upon the surface near the mouth of the vein with hammers, in the same way as they are broke for the roads & streets in London, which at present are afterwards carried by mules in hide-bags to the companies' establishments in town'. Mr C. [Cameron] saying that the mine belonging to the English-Chilean [Anglo-Chilean Mining Association] was believed to be the richest vein, despite the mine only being about 20 feet deep at present: 'the vein is large & had every appearance to run a great length at this depth from the surface, which will require but little labour to work it. The solid rocks are everywhere near the surface, & have a whitish granite appearance, mixed with blue & green streaks. The soil is light & shallow, & generally of a red colour, which is seldom ever seen to vary from it on the mountains, who have no trees upon them, but have a great many variety of fine flowering shrubs & other plants, growing on the sand without any interruption from grass'. Among the visitors from the other mines there to welcome Caldcleugh, was 'an old Spaniard with his two sons, who had both first discovered, not long ago, these new mines, & are but boys about the age of twelve or sixteen'

Spending the evening 'agreeably' with the rest of the party and 'three European workmen in their hut at the mine, who, when our little stock of wine & brandy had run short, supplied us with aguardent punch [aguardiente, distilled spirits] & an old humorous German amused us with playing on the guitar & occasionally singing, & as the punch kept going round several toasts were given, such as the Supreme Director & success to the Chiloe expedition, with numbers of others, among them was that of Joseph S. Esq [Joseph Sabine, secretary of the Horticultural Society of London]'. Temperature 59°-68°

(7 Dec 1825) A fine, but chilly morning. Rising at dawn to collect plants, leaving the rest of the company sleeping on dry rushes on the floor of the hut, the rushes having been brought to thatch another hut

Breakfasting at 8am. Returning to the town with Henry Talbot. Collecting plants and seeds on the way. The rest of the party intending to go further into the country to see more mines. The party passing McRae and Talbot after several leagues, McRae travelling slowly in order to collect plants. Crossing the river just before dark, dangerous during the night as a result of the melting snow swelling the rivers. Temperature 57°-67°

(8 Dec 1825) A fine day. Going to collect plants near the town. Returning in the evening to find 'several of the young gentlemen from on board' on their way to a ball and supper given by Alexander Caldcleugh, 'where most of the respectable inhabitants are invited also, & who are favoured with the band belonging to one of the Chilean rigments'. Temperature 62°-65°

(9 Dec 1825) A fine day. Going on board the ship with 'what little I had collected'. Hearing that the ship was not sailing until the following day, returning to the town to spend the evening with his friend Mr Forder. Temperature 64°-66°

(10 Dec 1825) A fine day. Saying goodbye to Alexander Caldcleugh and Mr Forder, 'both of which I regretted to have been obliged to part with so soon, without having the opportunity to travel more in the country towards the Cordilleras [Chile] in search of plants, which were in this part entirely different'

The entrance to the city from the port being through an arched gateway, with a 12-foot wall surrounding the city. Some of the streets paved with small stones. The houses mainly built of mud and whitewashed. The placa [square] 'tolerably large' with the governor's house in one corner, 'but all the houses fronting it are low & much in want of repairing. There are also here 2 churches, a college, chiefly for the education of students in medicine'. The population 'nearly the same as at Valparaiso, but wants the liveliness & the business that the latter has the advantage of, on account of its harbour being more frequented with shipping'. The country surrounding the city hilly, sandy and barren, with hardly any cultivation apart from on the riverbanks, forming a large valley extending several leagues inland. The port inhabited mainly by poor fishermen

Hearing that the ship was not intending to sail until the following day. Returning on shore to collect plants in the hills near the port. Finding several large Amaryllis bulbs with deep roots requiring 'much labour' to dig up from the hard, gravelly soil. Temperature 62°-64°

(11 Dec 1825) Sunday. A fine, hazy morning with a light wind. Sailing at 1pm, but the ship returning to anchor again at 6pm due to lack of wind. Temperature 63°-64°

(12 Dec 1825) A fine morning. Sailing at 9am with a light north-westerly breeze: 'during the day tacked occasionally to work out of the bay' until reaching open sea with a fresh south-westerly wind at 6pm. Temperature 62°-63°

(13 Dec 1825) A fine morning with a moderate south-westerly breeze, shifting at dusk to south-easterly. Temperature 62°-63°

(14 Dec 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with 'light airs' from the south-east, shifting to south-south-easterly at dusk. Temperature 63°-66°

(15 Dec 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with light south-south-easterly winds. The surgeon [William Davis, surgeon on HMS Blonde] examining the gentlemen on the ship 'to see who among them had the itch [scabies], to be confined by themselves to prevent its spreading farther'. Several men were been found with it, 'who, upon being put upon the doctor's list, felt so much degraded at the thought of rubbing their bodies with sulphur twice every day, that they insisted in never having it before'. Temperature 63°-67°

(16 Dec 1825) A fine morning with light southerly and easterly winds, and southerly breezes at dusk. The ship being treated with brimstone [sulphur was used to treat the 'itch']. Temperature 64°-67°

(17 Dec 1825) A fine morning with light southerly and south-easterly winds, and a heavy southerly swell in the afternoon and moderate south-easterly breezes at dusk. Temperature 65°-67°

(18 Dec 1825) A fine morning with 'light airs' from the east and south-east, calm at noon and in the evening. Temperature 65°-69°

(19 Dec 1825) A fine day with 'light airs' from the east and south-east. Coming in sight of Point of Masafuera [Alejandro Selkirk Island, Juan Fernandez, Chile] with its peaked tops and 'without scarcely any appearance of vegetation'. Temperature 67°-76°

(20 Dec 1825) A fine morning with moderate northerly and north-westerly breezes, the wind shifting to northerly and north-easterly in the evening. Still in sight of Masafuera [Alejandro Selkirk Island, Juan Fernandez, Chile] about 40 miles away. 'The itch-party are still increasing in number, & the surgeon finds his brimstone makes no cure, but does rather irritate the complaint. He says it is the Limenian [from Lima], common to South America, & not the European'. Temperature 66°-69°

(21 Dec 1825) A fine morning with a light easterly wind, heavy rain at night and moderate breezes and occasionally squally at noon. His lordship [George Anson Byron] saying it would be 'a pity' to stop for Chiloe [Chiloe Island, Chile] when the winds were so favourable for sailing round Cape Horne [Cape Horn]. The winds shifting to easterly and south-easterly at dusk. The carpenters repairing the lids of McRae's boxes in preparation for the cold weather. The plants doing well, and some of the Araucaria 'are come up'. 'Lost one of my birds through the neglect of the person feeding them this morning'. Temperature 67°-69°

(22 Dec 1825) A fine morning with light south-westerly 'airs'. George Anson Byron deciding not to go to Chiloe [Chiloe Island, Chile] 'to ascertain the success or failure of the expedition from Chile'. McRae feeling disappointed by this, having expected to have the opportunity to go on shore. The water allowance on board the ship diminished. The ship's course altered for rounding the Horne [Cape Horn] and sailing across the Atlantic for St Helena [Saint Helena, British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha] to take on water, instead of sailing to Rio de Janeiro [Brazil]. Temperature 65°-70°

(23 Dec 1825) A fine morning with moderate westerly and northerly breezes, shifting to westerly and south-westerly at noon. Foggy and occasionally squally. Temperature 63°-66°

(24 Dec 1825) A hazy morning with fresh westerly and southerly breezes, squally and rainy at noon and fine weather at dusk. Drinking toasts for Christmas eve 'to the health of our friends at home, whom we all soon expect to meet'. Temperature 59°-60°

(25 Dec 1825) A hazy morning with fresh westerly and southerly breezes, shifting to south-westerly, and cloudy at dusk. A church service performed at 10am, with ('as usual') the sacrament administered 'to those who thought themselves qualified to receive it'. 'Some of the itch-party have been discharged as cured, but there are yet many on the list uncured'. Temperature 52°-56°

(26 Dec 1825) A rainy morning with fresh westerly and north-westerly breezes, squally at times and heavy rain later. Temperature 49°-53°

(27 Dec 1825) A fine, but cold morning with moderate westerly and north-westerly breezes, rain during the day and squally at dusk with heavy rain. Nailing down tarpaulins on the plant boxes. Temperature 49°-51°

(28 Dec 1825) A rainy morning with fresh breezes, shifting to north-westerly at noon, and squally and rainy at dusk, shifting to westerly and north-westerly with a heavy swell. Temperature 46°-47°

(29 Dec 1825) A hazy morning with strong north-westerly and northerly breezes. Coming in sight of Diego Ramirez [Diego Ramirez Islands, Chile] about 14 or 15 miles away towards the north-west. Reaching the Atlantic Ocean at 1pm. Temperature 46°-49°

(30 Dec 1825) A cold, rainy morning with fresh north-westerly and northerly breezes, with moderate breezes and cloudy at dusk. Coming in sight of Staten Island [Isla de los Estados, Argentina] at 7am. 'We have now for several days past had daylight till past ten at night'. Opening the plant boxes and finding the plants in good condition. Temperature 46°-48°

(31 Dec 1825) A 'thick' morning with fresh north-westerly and northerly breezes, shifting to north-easterly at noon. Heavy rain at dusk. Temperature 46°-48°

(1 Jan 1826) A cold, 'thick' and foggy morning with moderate south-easterly breezes, shifting to south-easterly, and light rain at dusk. Seeing plenty of albatrosses and Cape pigeons [Cape petrel] around the ship. Temperature 45°-46°. The air damp and cold

(2 Jan 1826) A fine morning with moderate north-westerly breezes and heavy rain at noon, the wind shifting to north-westerly and northerly at dusk. Temperature 46°-49°

(3 Jan 1826) A fine morning with moderate westerly and south-westerly breezes, shifting to south-easterly and cloudy at noon. Temperature 51°-63°

(4 Jan 1826) A fine day with moderate north-easterly and northerly breezes, cloudy at dusk. Temperature 49°-50°

(5 Jan 1826) A cold, hazy morning with fresh north-easterly gales and heavy rain. Top gallant taken down and the masts struck. Moderate westerly and north-westerly breezes and cloudy at dusk. Temperature 50°-51°

(6 Jan 1826) A fine day with moderate north-westerly breezes. Temperature 50°-53°

(7 Jan 1826) A fine morning with a light westerly wind, shifting to northerly and north-easterly at dusk. Temperature 54°-58°

(8 Jan 1826) A hazy morning with fresh northerly and north-easterly breezes, and rain at 2pm. Attempting soundings with a '130 fathoms' line, but found no bottom'. Seeing several icebergs, but owing to the thick fog and rain, not spotting them until close by: 'had it been in the night-time, it is probable we would have run upon some of them'. The icebergs rising to about 150 feet high above the water, making their full height, with about two thirds under water, 'about 600 feet'. Their peaks at varying heights making them look like small islands, and not seeing 'that brilliant transparency' due to the wet and foggy weather. The ship altering its course towards the north to avoid the icebergs. Temperature 54°-55°

(9 Jan 1826) A cloudy morning with moderate southerly and south-westerly breezes. All the 'itch-patients' discharged by the surgeon. Temperature 53°-57°

(10 Jan 1826) A cloudy and hazy day with a light northerly wind. 'The naturalist [Andrew Bloxam] has lost his Cordilleras condor bird this morning, who is said by most on board to have died from starvation'. Temperature 54°-58°

(11 Jan 1826) A fine day with moderate south-westerly and westerly breezes, shifting to north-westerly and westerly at 8pm. The plants which had made young wood prior to Cape Horne [Cape Horn] now withering. Temperature 59°-61°

(12 Jan 1826) A fine day with moderate north-westerly and westerly breezes. Temperature 60°-62°

(13 Jan 1826) A fine day with light south-easterly and easterly winds. Temperature 64°-65°

(14 Jan 1826) A fine day with light north-easterly and northerly winds. Temperature 64°-66°

(15 Jan 1826) A fine morning with moderate northerly and easterly breezes. Temperature 67°-69°

(16 Jan 1826) A hazy morning with moderate northerly breezes. Temperature 67°-71°

(17 Jan 1826) A fine day with moderate northerly breezes. Temperature 69°-70°

(18 Jan 1826) A cloudy morning with moderate northerly breezes, thick fog and rain at noon, and fresh breezes and cloudy at dusk. Temperature 66°-70°

(19 Jan 1826) A cloudy morning with fresh north-westerly breezes. Latitude 28°48'S, longitude 7°10'W. Expecting to reach St Helena [Saint Helena], 785 miles away, in a few days owing to a south-easterly trade wind. Temperature 67°-70°

(20 Jan 1826) A fine morning with fresh south-easterly breezes. At 10am 'had the welcome sight to see cables bent, a sure sign of coming soon again to anchor'. Temperature 70°-73°

(21 Jan 1826) A fine day with moderate south-easterly and easterly breezes. Temperature 70°-73°

(22 Jan 1826) A fine morning with moderate easterly by southerly breezes, shifting to southerly at noon and to northerly at dusk. Expecting to see St Helena [Saint Helena] the following morning. Temperature 71°-73°

(23 Jan 1826) A fine morning with moderate south-south-easterly breezes. Coming in sight of St Helena [Saint Helena] at 2am. Shortening sail and anchoring at 7am in 16 fathoms of water off James Town [Jamestown, Saint Helena]. The Ladder Hill battery saluting the ship with 13 guns, the Blonde returning the salute. A St Helena schooner from Cape of Good Hope [South Africa] arriving at 3pm with 'no later news from England than we had on the coast of South America'. Several people going on shore. Temperature 73°-75°

(24 Jan 1826) A fine morning with a light southerly wind. Going on shore at 10am. Visiting Mr Cameron [James Cameron, East India Company gardener at St Helena] and seeing his small gardens. Returning on board in the afternoon to bring the 'traps for collecting' on shore to the inn in preparation for a journey to the country with Cameron the following morning. Cameron promising plants 'worth my notice'. Meeting Lord B. [George Anson Byron] on shore, Byron having spent the previous night with the governor, General Walker [Alexander Walker, governor of St Helena], who had invited McRae to visit him. Byron promising to introduce them the following morning. Temperature 72°-75°

(25 Jan 1826) A fine morning. Rising at dawn and setting off with Mr C. [James Cameron] for the governor's country house, about three miles from the town. The road uphill and the roadsides barren with only a few Ficus religiosus [Ficus religiosa] and nitida [Ficus benjamina], newly planted by Cameron on the sides of the roads for shade. Seeing country houses situated on the sides of the ravines, belonging to the 'officers of the company [East India Company]' with small pine plantations, brambles and firs, 'so common to England'

The governor's house 'pleasantly situated' at the head of a valley, surrounded by large pine plantations and other trees, with a 'pleasant' grass park at the front and a garden with several shaded walks around the house, with no wall or fence surrounding it ('like in all foreign countries'). Being shown two kinds of Araucaria, including the excelsa [Araucaria columnaris], with several other East Indian and Chinese plants ('thriving') and banana and mulberry trees

[Here the journal ends mid-sentence at the foot of the page. For the next part of the journal, bound in the same volume, 25 Jan-15 Mar 1826, see RHS/Col/6/1/8].

Extent

91 pages

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RHS archive: plant collector papers

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Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library

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Royal Horticultural Society

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RHS Lindley Collections

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Non-commercial use with attribution permitted (CC BY-NC 4.0)