Pages 377-609 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 3

Title

Pages 377-609 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 3

Record type

Archive

Original Reference

RHS/Col/6/1/6

Date

28 May-5 Oct 1825

Scope & content

Pages 377-609, entitled '28 May continued from part second': Narrative of James McRae's journey, describing his stay in Hawaii on the islands of O'ahu and Hawai'i, the journey on HMS Blonde from Hawaii to Chile, and the first month of his stay in Chile. The journal continues mid-sentence from part 2 [RHS/Col/6/1/5]

This item is bound in the volume comprising journal and papers of James McRae. This is the third of five parts of McRae's journal. All five were subsequently bound together in the same volume. For a description of the first two parts of the journal, 8 Sep 1824-28 May 1825, see RHS/Col/6/1/4- 5. For descriptions of the later parts of the journal, 6 Oct 1825-15 Mar 1826 see RHS/Col/6/1/7-8

(28 May 1825, continued) McRae had had nothing to do with the planting, 'which, if kept ignorant from them, they would not hesitate to censure me to the world, when they saw in what careless manner they had been planted'. Re-planting orchids from St Catherin [Santa Catarina Island, Brazil]. Starting a list of the live plants, 'but to my surprise found that the natives had stolen all the leaden numbers attached to each plant, as well as the iron hooks, which kept the box lids open when the plants required air on the passage'

Returning to his hut at 10am. Arranging specimens and 'making up duplicates of seeds' to send to England by one of Mr Charlton's [Richard Charlton, British consul at Sandwich Islands] ships. Temperature 75°-87°

(29 May 1825) Sunday. A fine day. Meeting the purser [of HMS Blonde] at 6am at the house of Mr Adams [Alexander Adams, harbour pilot in Honolulu, officer in the navy of the kingdom of Hawai'I, formerly in the British Royal Navy] to go to the other side of the island 'to see the steep cliffs, where Mr A.B. [Andrew Bloxam, naturalist on HMS Blonde] & myself had on the 13th some difficulty in passing'. Rising with Mantle [McRae's assistant from HMS Blonde] at dawn and setting off with a gun and a specimen box

Adams amusing the party with anecdotes of the late Tamahamaah [Kamehameha I, former king of the kingdom of Hawai'i] and his queens, particularly Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu, queen regent (Kuhina Nui) of the kingdom of Hawai'i]. Adams having been on the island since 1809, employed in various ways, including exporting sanderswood [sandalwood] to China and salt to the north-west coast of America. From the latter place he had brought back some deer and let them roam free in the valley, 'when Pitt [William Pitt, Karaimoku, also known as Kalaimoku, Kalanimoku or Billy Pitt, prime minister of the kingdom of Hawai'i, brother of Boki] a short time after happened to get unwell, & fancied that the flesh of the deer would do him good', he ordered one of them to be killed, and, liking the taste, the other one also: 'this ended the life of both poor Adams's deer, & the good which might be expected to arise from the introduction of so useful an animal'

Adams showing McRae the place in the valley of Hana-rura or Nuana [Manoa valley, O'ahu, Hawaii, United States of America], 'where the king of Woahoo's [O'ahu] (Tereaboo [sic; Tereaboo refers to the king of Hawai'i Island, Kalani'opu'u-a-Kaiamamao, the uncle of Kamehameha I, who died in 1782. The king of O'ahu at this time was Kalanikupule]) head general was killed after the invasion of Tamahamaah [Kamehameha I] from Owhyee [Hawai'i Island, Hawaii] to conquer this island'. Tamahamaah had landed his small army with Young [John Young, advisor and interpreter to Kamehameha I] and Davis [Isaac Davis, advisor and interpreter to Kamehameha I] without opposition, armed with 'only one small swivel [gun] & a few firearms, the rest being armed with spears & clubs', while Tereaboo was waiting with his forces in the valley. Davis shot the head general, causing the opposing army to retreat: 'They were then afterwards pursued by Tamahamaah across the island, where on coming to the steep cliff already mentioned, they threw themselves over the precipice, & were thousands of them found lifeless at bottom, when their pursuers came up. In this manner by the help of Young & Davis without hardly any firearms, did Tamahamaah make the easy conquest of this important island, which at present may be considered the first of all the Sandwich Islands on account of its good harbour. The king fled to the mountains, being convinced the custom of putting the vanquished to death would be practised upon. 'I must die', said he to one of his friends, 'for I will not let him enjoy this triumph. I will sacrifice myself to the gods'. His corpse was afterwards found in a cave in the mountains' [McRae is probably referring to the battle of Nu'uanu in 1795]

Returning at 5pm. Skinning the birds he had shot: 'one of these was particularly handsome, being all red, & only met with sucking the blossoms of the Metrosideros'. Richard Charlton, his wife [Betsy Bastram-Charlton] and her sister [Mrs Taylor] visiting before dusk with 'several of the gentlemen from on board'. Temperature 76°-86°

(30 May 1825) A fine day with some light rain showers. Arranging specimens and seeds. Lord Byron [George Anson Byron, captain of HMS Blonde] and the surgeon [William Davis, surgeon on HMS Blonde] visiting on their evening ride to Diamond Hill [Diamond Head, O'ahu] with 'a good deal of conversation respecting the Spaniard [Francisco de Paula Marin, advisor and interpreter to Kamehameha I], who so ill treated my plants brought out from England'. Temperature 76°-86°

(31 May 1825) A fine day. Going to the town in the morning with Richard Charlton to take empty plant boxes from William Pitt to the carpenter to be repaired, but not finding anyone at Pitt's hut. Asking Charlton to help him procure assistance, for which he would pay, 'sooner than remain here losing more time depending on Pitt'. Alexander Adams 'very good-naturedly' borrowing a cart to assist McRae with 'his own people'

Discovering that the plants had been left in the hot sun and consequently all had lost their leaves, apart from one grapevine: 'the entire neglect of these people towards so many useful plants introduced for their benefit, at so much trouble & anxiety for preserving them alive during a passage of nearly eight months, & a distance upwards of 15,000 miles through various climates, at considerable expense to the H Society, easily shows their ignorance yet in the arts of agriculture. In fact the labour & expense of these plants may appear in a manner to be thrown away upon them a century too soon'. Hoping some of the 138 plants would survive

'The Spaniard Marin [Francisco de Paula Marin])' had brought a grapevine in 1814 from Callifornia [California, United States of America], where he had been with Adams 'as linguist [interpreter] in one of the Sandwich Islands vessels to bring over cattle, horses & mules etc'. He had planted the vine in his own garden near Hana-rura [Honolulu, O'ahu] and made the king 'perform the charm of taboo to prevent any being stolen, which till the present time still continues to be in force. So selfish is the disposition of this man that although he has succeeded to cultivate the grapevine with much success, & within the last two years to make more than three casks of wine from the fruit, that sooner than he would part with slips to his neighbours, he actually burned the pruning every year, rather than oblige those who wished for to cultivate them, that he might enjoy the monopoly arising from them himself; which will now soon be out of his power from the liberality of Mr Charlton, who has given away to different individuals several fine grape plants brought with him from the port of Valparaiso [Chile], besides an assortment of vegetable seeds from England, presented to him by the H Society'

Charlton ('who possesses liberal principles') intending to settle at Woahoo [O'ahu] with his family. McRae expecting to see an improvement in cultivation, 'not only in cotton & coffee, but in coco [cocoa] & sugar, where the soil & climate is equally favourable for it to be brought to the same perfection with any in the world'. Temperature 76°-87°

(1 Jun 1825) A fine day, but showery in the morning. Going to the town at 10am with some living plants ('collected for England') to plant them in one of the empty boxes, now being repaired by the carpenter

Seeing Queen Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] 'at a short distance from the road, having several natives with her dragging her four-wheeled cart to the top of a small hill, which was afterwards pushed off to go to the bottom by itself alone with her in it. This ludicrous sort of amusement was always accompanied by the natives with much shouting noise, while her majesty & cart kept going to the bottom'

The captain's clerk visiting McRae at 2pm to say that the Active [Richard Charlton's ship] would be sailing to Valparaiso in a few days. McRae returning to the town in the evening to try and convince 'his lordship [George Anson Byron]' to allow him to send his parcels of seed to Mr Croker [John Wilson Croker, secretary of the Admiralty] instead of Mr Canning [George Canning, British foreign secretary]. Meeting Byron and the surgeon [William Davis] on their way riding to visit 'poor Wilkinson [John Wilkinson, settler at Hawaii]'. Byron granting his permission after some hesitation. Temperature 76°-87°

(2 Jun 1825) A showery morning followed by a fine day. Arranging duplicate seeds to send to England

The 'lofty' Queen Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] and Pio [Lydia Namahana Kekuaipi'ia, also known as Namahana Piia, governor of O'ahu, wife of Kamehameha I and sister of Ka'ahumanu] visiting McRae in the afternoon with several female attendants, 'besides the natives dragging their carts. Both were very inquisitive to know if my friend Mr Forder [a passenger on HMS Blonde] & myself had been married men, who on their being informed we was, they next enquired what was the number of our family, to which my friend, who kept up the conversation with them, said that he had six, but that I had none, at which they remarked, I must only have had but one wife. They then, after some more trifling questions, left us for to bathe in their usual fishpond at a little distance from our hut'

The young king [Kauikeaouli, also known as Kamehameha III] visiting McRae's hut on horseback with a little boy 'brought out from England by Boki [high chief of the kingdom of Hawai'i, royal governor of the island of O'ahu, also known as Poki and Kama'ule'ule]. His majesty was dressed in a shirt, blue jacket & pantaloons of the same colour, but was without a hat, waistcoat, shoes or stockings'. Seeing a boy carrying the young princess [Nahienaena, also known as Harriet or Harrieta Keopuolani Nahi'ena'ena, sister of Kamehameha II and Kamehameha III] from the bathing place. Temperature 76°-87°

(3 Jun 1825) A showery morning followed by a fine day. Arranging and packing specimens to take them on board the ship in preparation for sailing to Owhyee [Hawai'i Island] on 7 Jun. Temperature 74°-85°

(4 Jun 1825) A fine day. Busy stowing away his belongings 'in the midst of noise common to a man-awar [man-of-war]'. One of the 'gentlemen [officers]' catching an 11-foot shark and finding in the stomach 'a large hook & chain, carried away the day before, besides a bullock's foot, part of a pig's head & a variety of other bones, which had been thrown over the ship's side, where he had been noticed for several days past'. Luggage and provisions sent on board in the afternoon by the Hawaiians for the journey to Owhyee [Hawai'i Island]. Temperature 75°-77°

(5 Jun 1825) Sunday. A fine day. A church service performed at 10am. 'Employed all day writing out my accounts' and letters to Mr Sabine [Joseph Sabine, secretary of the Horticultural Society of London]. Temperature 76°-78°

(6 Jun 1825) A fine day. Going on shore at 10am to leave a packet of seeds and letters with Richard Charlton. 'I got Lord Byron [George Anson Byron] to endorse me a bill for £20, which I sold at the rate of 50d per dollar'. Seeing a large pig roasted on hot stones, 'in the customary way with the South Sea slands mentioned already by Captain Cook [James Cook, explorer and captain in the British Royal Navy, who visited Hawaii in 1778 and 1779]'

Seeing a young woman on the street with several puppies in a tapa [paper mulberry, Broussonetia papyrifera, also known as kapa in Hawaiian] cloth wrapped around her shoulders & breasts: 'the custom of suckling dogs & pigs etc is common to the natives of the Sandwich Islands & is held by them in estimation, little inferior to their own offspring, which on my journeys to the woods in search of plants often afforded me the opportunity of being an eyewitness to, while I had occasion to enter the huts, sometimes from curiosity, & at others for a drink of water. I not only observed the suckling of dogs & pigs, but also even feeding them with the poi made from the tarro [taro] root, which they chiefly subsist upon themselves & feed these animals with it the same as a mother would do her own child, which often gave me such disgust that I was obliged to leave their hut immediately. Their dogs are in general useless for anything else but being eat [eaten], & seldom ever heard to bark. In size they are small, with long bodies & ears, sharp piked [pointed] noses & short feet, & mostly of a black colour, but are very often seen covered with mange, to that degree so as to be almost deprived of hair. Yet the natives feed them in this state & preserve all their offspring, which they carry in their arms oftener than do their children, & feel more offended if a stranger passing their huts was to hurt them, than they would do for the other'

Byron attending a general assembly for the chiefs at William Pitt's house for discussing 'fit laws to be established throughout the different islands'. Boki standing up to make a 'surprising speech, which astonished all that were present, particularly some of his own countrymen, who said it must be some other person in Boki's skin', talking about what he had seen in England, comparing it to his own country. Boki recommending that laws and religion be established on the same principles as in England, being 'sorry to observe that their present religion restricted them from lighting fires on Sundays to cook their meals or to bath themselves, contrary to the custom in England, but for his own part he was determined to have a fire in his house when he wanted one'. After some disagreement, the assembly deciding to re-enforce the former laws of Tamahamaah [Kamehameha I]

The sailors coming on shore at 3pm to 'go through several military movements for the gratification of Pitt and others, but unfortunately many of them got intoxicated on their way through the town to the ground, which, to the disappointment of his lordship, several of them were unfit to go through their respective movements', with the royal family and chiefs along with the European residents watching. Seeing Queen Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] in her cart with the young king [Kamehameha III], 'half-naked, sitting above her while she lay in the cart, who upon every time the marines fired, squatted himself with his face downwards on her majesty's back'

Seeing John Wilkinson, who had recovered and wanted to see his lordship [Byron] 'to persuade Pitt to promise him that the small spot of ground given him, when he has improved it, may not be afterwards taken from him', but Byron unable to grant any assurances to him. Staying at Novara's [American innkeeper and merchant in Honolulu] inn with the assistant surgeon, to 'procure some things' before the ship's sailing. Temperature 76°-79°

(7 Jun 1825) A fine day. Visiting his lordship [George Anson Byron] to ask whether he should take his empty plant boxes on board the ship, and being told that was not necessary, as Byron intended to return to the island. Queen Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu], Pio [Namahana Piia], John Young and several chiefs embarking on the ship for Heddo Bay [Hilo Bay, Hawai'i Island]. Saying goodbye to Richard Charlton but hoping to see him again soon

Sailing in the afternoon with fresh easterly and north-easterly breezes. 'Among the queen's attendants are an old, cunning, waggish fellow, named Jack Bligh, a native of Otahite [Tahiti, French Polynesia], who spoke a little English, & had, he informed us, been with Captain Bligh [William Bligh, British Royal Navy officer] in the Bounty at the time the unfortunate mutiny took place [during a mutiny on HMS Bounty in Tahiti in 1789, the crew seized control of the ship, setting the captain and 18 others adrift in the ship's open launch boat]'. Other passengers on board included two missionaries, one with their wife ('for the good of her health') and Sir Joseph Banks [also known as Joe Banks, Hawaiian guide], who acted as an interpreter to Byron. Temperature 76°-78°

(8 Jun 1825) A fine morning with fresh north-easterly breezes. At 10am, 'articles of war was read to the ship's company, then after had 10 of them [sailors] punished, some for drunkenness, & others for disobedience of orders'. Seeing the island of Mowee [Maui, Hawaii] at noon. Northerly winds in the evening. Temperature 73°-55°

(9 Jun 1825) A fine morning with fresh southerly and westerly breezes, calming at 4pm. Joe Banks sent on shore to Mowee [Maui] to procure fish from the huts by the beach, and returning with fresh and salted fish, 'which the natives, immediately after getting them on board, began to devour the fresh in a ravenous manner raw, with some poi & tarro [taro], not even wasting their gills or entrails, but considered them the most delicate parts of the fish, & what was generally eat [eaten] by the queens & chiefs. Among those eating fish in this disgusting manner, we noticed to our surprise Manaware, who we had brought out from England, seated in the midst of them with his shirt sleeves rolled up to his shoulders, eating & tearing to pieces with his teeth the gills & entrails, having his mouth, hands & fingers besmeared with blood from his not using a knife & fork, a thing yet never adopted by the Sandwich Islanders. I was so much disgusted on seeing this fellow, who of late had been accustomed of seeing a different way of living, that I could not help be, without telling him that he ought to have shown his countrymen how he had seen us eat our meals, to which he replied somewhat offended that he & all the people of his country liked fish in this way best, observing at the same time, we see plenty of poor people in England, but we see none here, that they got plenty of poi, tarro & fish, & no want for any, like many poor men at home. Such was the answer I received from a person who had been in England with their king, & who on the passage, like the others of his countrymen, to their own country, was fed by Lord Byron in a style not inferior to what he usually had himself'

The weather fine and still at dusk. Temperature 74°-76°

(10 Jun 1825) A fine morning with fresh north-easterly breezes. Coming in sight of snow-covered Mouna Kaah [Mauna Kea, Hawai'i Island] above the clouds: 'a grand appearance'. Light rain in the evening, temperature 73°-75°

(11 Jun 1825) A fine morning with strong easterly breezes and rain showers during the day. Coming in sight of the round, flat top of Mouna Roa [Mauna Loa, Hawai'i Island]. A cloudy evening with fresh breezes, temperature 73°-76°

(12 Jun 1825) Sunday. A fine, cloudy morning with strong easterly and north-easterly breezes. A church service performed at 10am in the presence of the queens, several of the chiefs and the missionaries. Anchoring in the afternoon

McRae, wanting to use his time on the island well, asking George Anson Byron to request Queen Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] to give him 'natives' to accompany him to Mouna Kaah [Mauna Kea]. With one of the missionaries as an interpreter, communicating to the queen 'the necessity of having 7 or 8 of the natives to accompany me', and the queen giving her consent after some hesitation. 'Having now so far settled things to my satisfaction, I had yet still another favour to ask from her, of being provided with a hut somewhere on shore to remove my traps to tomorrow, where Mr Forder will live till my return on purpose to receive & dry what plants I may find necessary to send home while on my journey'. The queen responding that she did not know about any huts, but would make enquiries. Temperature 73°-77°

(13 Jun 1825) A fine day. Going on shore after dawn to find the huts of 'the only two foreigners at this place besides the missionaries', to ask one of them to act as a guide to Mouna Kaah [Mauna Kea]. Hearing from one of the missionaries, Mr Goodrich [Joseph Goodrich, American missionary in Hawaii], that the people he was searching for had left a fortnight ago to hunt for wild cattle near Mouna Kaah, and would probably stay for several more weeks. Goodrich himself promising to accompany McRae as a guide, having been on the mountain once previously: 'this kind offer completed my wishes'. Deciding to travel by canoe to the foot of the mountain, 'as we had no difficulty to procure a canoe, if I made again application to Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu], who had plenty at her command', and return by land, a 30-mile journey through deep ravines and large rivers

Returning to the ship for breakfast. Asking his lordship [George Anson Byron] to request from her majesty [Ka'ahumanu] a canoe and 'extra natives to man it' for the journey. Byron promising to do so 'in his usual pleasant manner, when he found her in such humour as likely not to refuse him, being at present rather sulky from accounts received of some persons on shore having acted wrong in her absence'

Several officers wishing to join McRae to Mouna Kaah if he could wait for a few days, while other officers intended to wait for the surveyor [Charles Robert Malden, surveyor on HMS Blonde] to return from Pearl River [Pearl Harbor, O'ahu]. The 4th lieutenant, Mr Talbot [Henry John Chetwynd Talbot, lieutenant on HMS Blonde], and the purser, Mr Wilson, asking McRae to request permission for them from Byron ('in case of them being refused'). Byron granting them permission to join the party and Kaumanna promising a canoe for them

Going on shore at noon to search for a suitable hut with the help of Manaware and Goodrich. The huts near the bay 'all pleasantly situated under the shade of breadfruit trees, which in places form woods of themselves & grow to a great height'. Seeing plenty of rose apple and coconut trees, some of them very old and large. Heddo Bay [Hilo Bay] a 'very pleasant spot', with its woods and plentiful water supply, but with little cultivation, apart from small patches of banana, taro and tapa. At the western end of the bay a large river with several waterfalls, convenient for watering vessels in the harbour, and a subterranean river, dammed to form a large freshwater fish pond ('taboo'd for the use of the king & the chiefs'). Seeing a reef running across the bay and a small island with plenty of coconut trees, called Coconut Island [Hawai'i Island]. The north side of Owhyee divided into two districts, belonging to Kaumanna and Pio, who resided ('when at Heddo to receive the rents') on the eastern side of the bay in two huts, 'or rather sheds'. Byron staying in a hut belonging to one of the queens

Returning on board the ship at dusk to hear that the canoe would not be ready until the day after tomorrow. John Young talking about his journey to Mouna Roa [Mauna Loa], the second highest mountain after Mouna Kaah, with Dr Menzes [Archibald Menzies, British botanist and naval surgeon, who visited Hawaii two or three times during the 1780s and 1790s; this was the first recorded ascent of the mountain in 1794]: 'Mr Young's opinion of the height of the latter mountain being much higher than the former goes no farther in proof of their difference, than that during the 36 years he had been on the islands, he never noticed Mouna Kaah free from snow, but had always seen the other without any in summer, which on that account he has considered it to be inferior height to Mouna Kaah'. Temperature 74°-76°

(14 Jun 1825) A fine day. Going on shore at 10 am 'with my traps, salt provisions etc, taking with me Mantle & another lad named Trounce, who are both allowed me from the ship'. Discovering that the hut promised to him by Manaware was no longer available. Being offered part of a chief's hut on the opposite side of the bay. 'Being thus disappointed for want of a hut to secure my provisions & other things, now landed on the beach surrounded by crowds of natives, who, if they had the opportunity, would not hesitate to make free with what they could lay hold of'. Being allowed to leave his belongings at the house of 'his lordship [George Anson Byron]', and Byron offering a tent erected for his servants as temporary accommodation for McRae and Mr Forder

Asking John Young and two of the missionaries whether they thought Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] would 'disappoint' him about the canoe, and whether he should remind her, 'while so many were present whom she could understand'. Finding Kaumanna in her hut, 'as usual lying on the floor with her face downwards & several natives round her brushing the flies from her body'. McRae asking her if he would get the 'canoe & natives' the following morning: 'she hesitated in giving an answer, till she had satisfied herself in taking a survey of me from head to foot, then said [that] when she saw one of the chiefs, she would let me know. On her giving me this unsatisfactory answer, I requested Mr Young, who had more influence over her than the missionaries had, to tell her that if she could not let me have the canoe & people conveniently for nothing, that I was willing to satisfy her or the chiefs with what money she wanted'. Finding this promise to have the desired effect, a canoe was immediately sent across the bay to the head chief, the chief promising McRae his canoe and people the following morning, 'without paying any money whatever'

Sending a message on board the ship for Henry Talbot and Wilson to be ready the following morning. 'The lads' boiling two pieces of salt beef, one for dinner and one for the journey. Spending the evening preparing and packing for the journey. Byron asking McRae to dine with him, the surgeon [William Davis], chaplain [Rowland Bloxam] and painter [Robert Dampier, artist on HMS Blonde] ('his general constant companions while on shore'). Mr Forder joining McRae at sunset on shore, and 'both afterwards took up our bed, going for the night in the tent with two of his lordship's servants'. Temperature 74°-79°

(15 Jun 1825) A fine day following an uncomfortable night, with rain 'pouring through the old tent'. Joseph Goodrich arriving at dawn with a double canoe. Embarking their provisions and luggage, but being detained until 6am, 'on account of some of the natives being still absent, getting their own provisions of poi & fish'

Starting the journey with light, favourable easterly breezes after fetching Henry Talbot and Wilson from the ship, the party 'now in number 17, eleven natives & six of ourselves, with the well-wishes of those on board for our success & safe return'. Landing at 11am after 30 miles' journey at Lapahoi [Laupahoehoe, Hawai'i Island], in a narrow, rocky creek. Bailing out water from the canoe due to the high surf ('useless'). Drying their clothes and 'rubbing our firearms free from the saltwater' on landing. Discovering 40lbs of salt meat ('my share of provisions') missing in the confusion of landing the canoe

Lapahoi a small, stony flat area in a deep ravine with a few huts and scattered sweet potato and taro patches, with the sides of the ravine rising to 500 feet on each side and terminating in a rocky precipice by the beach. Seeing a species of Pandanus growing on the sides of the ravines, the trees giving the coast a 'very pleasant appearance at seeing their green, bushy tops hanging pendant over the rocks, where underneath in many places small subterranean streams of water fall down at no great distance from each other'. The same Pandanus growing most plentifully at Owhyee [Hawai'i Island], and cultivated frequently on the other islands for use in making mats and pillows for sleeping on. Seeing plenty of tea trees [ti plant] in the ravines

'Taking some refreshments' and dividing the baggage into equal loads 'for the natives to carry' before setting off at noon. Leaving behind six people with instructions to wait for four days with the canoe, in case the party wanted to return by water. Stopping briefly to draw breath on top of the summit above Lapahoi, and watching the high surf breaking over the rocks underneath. The country becoming 'more interesting [with] every step'. Ascending a narrow path towards the woods. The fine views reminding them 'much of home, & if cultivated, [the land] appeared to be capable of producing an equal return of crops to any land of a similar climate, [but] is yet suffered to remain as nature had formed it', with no livestock and covered with long grass and 'short, stumpy' Cyathea tree ferns fed on by swine. Seeing 'thinly scattered' huts surrounded by small patches of sweet potato, taro, sugarcane and banana, 'sufficient to supply the wants of the naked beings ['beings' underlined] that inhabit them, which often amount from three to four generations, huddled close together at night in one hut like so many dumb animals', without protection from the cold, heavy dews

Reaching the edge of the wood between in the afternoon after crossing three narrow, deep ravines covered with Metrosideros, Aluritis [Aleurites] and a species of Rhus, 'but without water, excepting during heavy rains'. Goodrich suggesting they stop for the night despite the early hour, having reached the last inhabited huts. Hoping to be able to procure food for the rest of the journey, especially following the loss of McRae's provisions. Their only other hope being to meet the 'two Europeans' hunting for wild cattle in the mountains

On entering one of the largest huts 'to see if it was free from filth', Goodrich meeting a smiling young woman, wife of one of the cattle hunters, who said she had only left the hunters the previous morning and that they had shot two bullocks. The men 'taking possession of the cleanest part of the hut for our accommodation without leave or ceremony, as is customary with these people themselves'. McRae going with Goodrich to find sufficient provisions for the night, but finding pigs too expensive ('nearly triple what they were worth'). Buying some fowls instead, and paying for them with money and 'looking glasses [mirror]'

Finding on their return Messrs T. & W. [Henry Talbot and Wilson] 'highly amused, seated in the midst of a large crowd of natives collected from all quarters, eagerly viewing them with surprise'. McRae going to the woods to collect plants while the supper was prepared. Finding several new species of fern before returning at dusk. The trees in the woods growing to 'a moderate size', and primarily consisting of several species of Metrosideros with different coloured flowers and foliage, including one with straw-coloured flowers, and Aluritis [Aleurites], with abundance of ferns growing underneath them

Finding his three fellow travellers sitting on a mat, each with 'some fowl' in one hand and a 'clasp knife in the other, busy eating in the presence of a number of natives, two of whom held in their hands a light made from the kernels of the kukue or candlenut (Alurites) [Aleurites], several in number passed through [threaded] on a splinter of the bamboo cane, which gave a greater light than two or three common sized candles'. Going to sleep at 9pm in a corner of the hut, 'on a clean mat brought with us on purpose, while every other part was occupied by natives, men, women & children lying mixed together, nay even their shabby disgusting dogs shared part of their bed, who they were seen to take fondly in their arms to lie beside them. The scene around us was so interesting, particularly to Mr T. & W. & myself, that we kept on talking & laughing for hours in the dark till at last overcome by sleep'. Temperature 71°-80°

(16 Jun 1825) A fine, but foggy, morning following a cold night. Temperature 64° at dawn. Continuing the journey at 5am, despite the heavy dew still covering the grass and wetting everyone up to their knees. Entering the woods by a narrow path next to a ravine, edged with banana trees with large bunches of fruit. Joseph Goodrich describing the ravine as 'the place where Mr Young [John Young] & his comrade Davis [Isaac Davis] fought their first battle in the service of Tamahamaah [Kamehameha I] & defeated upwards of 10,000 of the enemy with only 300', during which the chief of Heddo [Hilo Bay] retreated, and the battle 'was decided in favour of Young & Davis, who alone both had firearms that killed the enemy in vast numbers from the crowded manner in which they stood to oppose them, being unacquainted with the destructive effects of firearms. This battle gained to Tamahamaah the conquest of Owhyee [Hawai'i Island]'

Stopping for refreshments at 9am after four miles. McRae wandering off the path while his companions sat down on an old, fallen moss-covered tree. The trees becoming 'more lofty', in particular a species of Acacia used for building canoes, with different kinds of ferns covering the ground and growing as parasites on the trees. Seeing a 'noble' species of Cyathea growing 25 feet high and almost 12 feet in circumference, large Metrosideros with 'red, bunchy flowering tops' with numerous red birds feeding on the flowers, some climbing Besleria, with different-coloured flowers, and several species of Lobelia and shrubby and succulent Psychotria. The variety of plants making the journey 'truly pleasant, notwithstanding the difficulties often met with from the number of large trees laying across the path [...], which we had in general to scramble over, sometimes attended with falls, being wet & slippy from the almost constant rains that fall at nights'

Stopping again briefly at 10am to fill their calabashes with water, 'having got to the last place, where water could be found'. Temperature 69°. Seeing raspberry, strawberry and Vaccinium growing abundantly, 'covered with fruit, which we all eagerly ate of heartily, & found much relief from by quenching our thirst'. The raspberries large and flat at both ends, and 'not impleasant [unpleasant] in flavour', many of the plants growing to a height of 15 feet high: 'we at times fancied ourselves as if we were wandering through a garden neglected to a state of wilderness'

Reaching the end of the woods 12,000 feet above the sea level after a 12-mile journey at 1pm. Seeing the temporary hut of the two Europeans. The wild cattle they were hunting had been introduced by Captain Vancouver [George Vancouver, British Royal Navy officer, who visited Hawaii in the 1790s] from the north-west coast of America, '& since suffered to remain unmolested for upwards of twenty years. But since the death of King Tamahamaah [Kamehameha I], the government have frequently killed & salted many for the supply of their small fleet'

Finding both of the hunters asleep in the hut, dressed in 'the costume of the country', with about 20 native men, women and children, some asleep and others roasting pieces of meat on sticks fixed to the ground by the fire. The hunters offering to supply the party with beef, and 'while the natives were cooking some of the beef for our refreshment, we learned from these two half-naked foreigners, who could speak but indifferent English, although one a Welshman, the other a Prussian blacksmith, who were both for some time once in the English Navy, that they had succeeded during their short stay in shooting several cattle, but not without some difficulty', the cattle being wary of people but liable to 'pursue their destroyers with a kind of furious madness'. The hunters had also killed an old black bull, judging it, by a mark cut off from its right ear, to be one of the original ones brought by Vancouver. The herd, rarely seen outside the woods, thought now to number 'some hundreds' in size. Despite repeated attempts, there had been no success in domesticating the animals, due to the 'extraordinary care of the mother, living with her young in some retired place till old enough to protect itself from being taken by surprise'

The Welshman giving them pieces of roasted beef, served on a piece of bark, 'which with a little salt & our mouldy biscuits, made us a comfortable meal, although the rest where it had been cut from, was exposed in slices to dry in the sun on pieces of bark & the bushes within our sight, nearly black, covered with flies, in appearance like carrion. While we had finished our repast, ending with dessert of strawberries gathered by the natives while our meat was roasting, Messrs T. & W. [Henry Talbot and Wilson] soon retired under the shade of a tree to have a nap, having felt themselves somewhat tired'

McRae putting his specimens in paper 'to be left till my return'. Going to the wood to search for more plants. Temperature at 3pm the same 69° as at 10am. Goodrich saying they would have to travel for another six miles to be able to reach the summit early the following morning, 'before the horizon rose to prevent us from seeing the ship at anchor in the harbour'. McRae waking up his napping companions and resuming the journey, 'but not without an accident, which turned out afterwards with considerable disappointment, owing to the stupidity of a native dropping out of his hand a large calabash containing upwards of two gallons of strong brandy & water, the remaining share of my spirits brought on the journey'

Thick fog setting in after a three-mile journey. The path covered in tufts of dry, rough grass and full of cattle tracks, the soil sandy, pulverized lava. Seeing abundant strawberries and raspberries ('of a better flavour') growing by the sides of small ravines formed by torrents of water from melting snow. By 6pm, the fog becoming 'so thick as scarcely to be able to see ten yards before us, & ourselves drenching wet, shivering with cold & nearly beyond vegetation to afford us shelter for the night'

Cutting some boughs from low Acacia and Sophra [Sophora] trees, and in half an hour the group succeeding in building a hut and cutting firewood with a small axe and saw. The Acacia trees, growing so lofty earlier, were here 'stunted & decayed', barely 10 feet high. Not being able to sleep despite being tired, and 'rambling about among the numerous cranberry bushes, picking specimens till prevented by darkness'. Temperature at 7pm 52°, making the night cold and uncomfortable for everyone, despite the fire lit by the entrance of the hut

(17 Jun 1825) Rising at 2am in the dark ('cold & restless') at the suggestion of the guide [Joseph Goodrich]. Temperature 50°. Resuming the journey at 3am, 'leaving behind the natives, who were all unwilling to accompany us for fear of cold'. Seeing the sunrise at 5am, after three miles' journey over sandy lava, 'sinking every step over our ankles'. The path covered with cattle tracks, tufts of dry grass and occasional low shrubs. The vegetation becoming scarcer, with only one Syginesia [Syngenesia] plant, resembling a Yucca, with sharp, pointed, silver leaves, a green spike three or four feet high and pendular branches with brown flowers [?silversword, Argyroxiphium sandwicense]: 'truly superb & almost worth the journey of coming to see it on purpose'. 'The majestic clouds rising on the horizon at daylight, encircling us all round, as if it were an immense wall, with towers of various forms & sizes on its top placed at unequal distances, gradually rising & keeping changing into fresh forms almost every second, that had the finest effect imaginable'. The temperature falling to the freezing point of 32°

Messrs T. & W. [Henry Talbot and Wilson] complaining of feeling sleepy during a break. McRae eager to gain the summit to see the ship, having promised his lordship [George Anson Byron] to make a fire as a signal for him to see 'with his spyglass [small telescope]'. Leaving one of the lads to watch over the sleeping travellers and continuing on the increasingly steep and barren mountain. Catching sight of the ship at 6am, 'which appeared no more in size to us than a vessel of about fifty tons'. Collecting some decayed stumps and yucca leaves to set a fire as a signal for the ship. Waiting for half an hour, 'anxiously looking after us for our two companions', before continuing over the uneven, hard and brittle lava and sand, which was filling their shoes. The mountain dividing into several high, conical, sandy hills with old, sun-bleached volcano craters. The air becoming warmer and more pleasant after sunrise. Having to stop to catch their breath every few hundred yards: 'it may appear somewhat remarkable that we felt no symptoms of perspiration, but only a difficulty of breathing'

Spotting the lad left with Talbot and Wilson following them at 8am. Stopping to wait for him and 'take a little refreshment'. The boy reaching them at 8.30am 'with the greatest difficulty, & then begged of me not to take him any farther', saying he had left the others asleep and, feeling cold, wanted to try and find McRae and the guide. Giving the 'poor fellow' some time to rest, something to eat and a 'small drop of spirits to refresh him'. Sending him back with all the provisions of water and spirits ('excepting about a pint of water & a biscuit each & part of a bottle of port wine, which was given to our guide by his lordship to drink his health when we reached the snow') and Talbot's theodolet [theodolite, a surveying instrument], which he had brought to measure the height of the mountain 'if sufficiently early on the summit, before the horizon rose to prevent his obtaining a base line, which already had been too late for more than an hour'. Temperature 40°, the sun shining from a clear sky and the air dry and chilly

Resuming their slow journey over the sandy, increasingly rugged hills covered with lava, sand, small stones and sharp-edged granite blocks weighing several tons, resembling those 'blasted by miners, which have beyond doubt been thrown up by some former convulsion'. Coming in sight of snow at 11am, 'when for some time before our water was gone, & nearly all the wine finished by our guide, who complained more than the lad & myself of being very ill with violent pain in his ears, which caused deafness & a headache, as well as an inclination to vomit almost constantly'. Reaching the snow after another two miles, within a quarter of a mile of the summit. The guide feeling unable to proceed further, 'and prayed for god sake for us to make haste & bring him some snow to quench his thirst. The lad Mantle, although young and slender, held out better than we at first expected'

Reaching the summit at 12.30pm. The snow lying on the surface of lava and red sand, mixed with black and red cinders, composed of common quartz and other minerals ('that I am yet unacquainted with'). The snow about three feet deep in places, congealed into solid ice with loose, rough particles on top, melting fast 'through the porous lava, as if through a sieve, which prevented us from being able to fill our empty vessels with its water'. Filling their handkerchiefs with snow and eating it to quench their thirst, 'which we had some difficulty to keep within till it melted, being so very cold'. Mantle taking some of the snow to their guide

Measuring the temperature as 92° in the sun and in the holes beneath the snow 44°. Staying at the summit for almost an hour admiring the scenery, 'which for twelve miles in every direction looked dreary & inhospitable, but the open pasture land below, where the wild cattle feed had a pleasing effect'. The barren tops of Mouna Roa [Mauna Loa] and other hills above the woods hidden in fog. Seeing a skeleton of 'some animal, but without flesh, & apparently not long dead', the guide saying that wild dogs had nearly destroyed all the sheep brought by George Vancouver, 'being often pursued this far beyond vegetation, when they got bewildered & soon after died for want of food'

Returning slowly, still feeling unwell but reluctant to leave such an 'interesting place'. Scrambling with difficulty over the sharp-edged granite blocks, weighed down by the minerals they had collected, and suffering from loose sand in their shoes. Reaching the hut at 6.30pm, 'scarcely able to drag our limbs for the last four miles'. Finding to their surprise that the lad they sent back in the morning had not found Talbot and Wilson: 'at this unlucky circumstance, we both felt not a little uneasy, knowing them to have neither food nor water', thinking they may have felt ill earlier, and feeling sorry to have left them behind. Being relieved shortly afterwards to hear calls and see Talbot and Wilson appear: 'when we enquired of them how long they had slept, they would only acknowledge somewhat better than an hour', saying they had attempted to follow McRae and Goodrich, but been unable to find them and struggled to climb in the sand. Refreshing themselves with 'the snow we had brought home with us [...] the natives having in our absence drank all we had left to about a pint, which if it had been my calabash of spirits & water broke yesterday, they would not have attempted to make so free with it, as they had done with our water'

In the evening ('free from wet fog, with only a light dew'), enjoying themselves 'very pleasantly, sitting by the fire in front of our hut, melting the snow in my specimen tin box, placed far enough from the fire not to get too warm, the duty of which was performed by Mr Talbot, who gave us at our supper, each in his turn, a small quantity at a time, regretting himself much that he had fallen asleep, which prevented him from seeing it on the mountain'. Receiving a leg and thigh massage from the natives: 'a custom very common practiced among themselves when they feel tired after walking, or at any other time when they feel pain in their legs or arms, & [they] term it lummi lummi [lomilomi], which gives the parts they rub a warmth soon after, & causes the stiffness of the legs to feel much less, while they are rubbing, which is pleasant & very agreeable'

Temperature at 7pm 50°, and at 10pm 48°. Calculating the summit of Mouna Kaah [Mauna Kea] to be about 70 miles from Byron's Bay or Heddo Bay [Hilo Bay] by the path used for hunters of the wild cattle, and about half of that by direct line. The mountain rising gently from Lapahoi [Laupahoehoe], 40 miles west of Byron's Bay. Estimating that the mountain 'could not be under 18,000 feet above the level of the sea'. Seeing no woods on the coast, except in the ravines, the woods only starting five to six miles inland, intersected by numerous deep ravines and large freshwater rivers. The vegetation on the coast consisting mainly of Alurites [Aleurites] and several 'handsome, coloured, flowering' species of Metrosideros, some species growing to the height of 40 feet, 'thick in proportion, much used by the natives for building their huts, being hard & durable'. Above the woods the land resembling pasture land, with low-growing shrubs and plenty of strawberries and raspberries, but 'afterwards the vegetation soon ceases for the last eight miles towards the summit'. The clouds rising on the mountains in the morning and dispersing towards the evening, causing rain even with the sun shining on the coast

(18 Jun 1825) A fine morning. Rising at dawn after 'resting but indifferently from the frequent howling of wild dogs in the night & excessive cold, which occasioned us to get up often to keep the fire burning'. Setting out on the return journey at 6am towards the hut of the 'two foreigners' about six miles away, 'but had scarcely left our hut many yards when the natives, unknown to us, set fire to the hut, which soon destroyed it, a common custom our guide informed us, strictly adhered to by these people when they happen to flit from one place to another'

Reaching the hut of the 'Prussian & Welshman' at 10am, having seen no wild cattle, 'only their footmarks, very frequently, & one wild dog & a cat. The dog seemed to be of the same kind as the native one domesticated, which they eat the flesh of. The cat appeared to be like the European'. Being given 'plenty of slices of roasted beef for breakfast, & abundance of water, which took us some time before we could drink enough to satisfy our thirst'. McRae's companions spreading their mats under the shade of a tree and sleeping until noon: 'an indulgence, which I could not afford'. Transferring specimens to dry paper instead, and collecting strawberries and raspberries to take to England

Continuing the journey to Lapahoi [Laupahoehoe], 'where we ordered the canoe & natives to wait for our return when landed, & by whom our wide-awake purser (Wilson) [...] now intended to forward all the fresh beef both these men had for the use of the ship's company. It was astonishing to see the heavy loads the natives with these men willingly undertook to carry a distance of 25 miles at least. Some of them had a whole side of a bullock, & scarcely any had less than a half. We, on our departure, formed an amusing medley of beings on our going through the wood in a straggling manner' along a narrow path. The path becoming increasingly wet: 'for the last four miles we could hardly go a step without falling on the roots of trees & mud, much to our annoyance'

McRae and 'the two lads [...] with two of the natives' being left behind, not being able to keep up with the rest of the party due to the quantity of plants they were carrying. Reaching the first hut at dusk 'drenching wet' and finding only the 'two foreigners', the rest of the party having continued to Lapahoi. 'Both these lazy fellows to whom I gave a dollar each when they had left me in the wood, promising to have a good fire to dry our clothes & something warm ready for us to eat by the time we arrived, had not yet thought of anything of the kind, although at home for some time. However it was the best policy not to grumble at their neglect, but keep on the best terms possible'. Dining on stewed beef at 9pm, cooked in an old saucepan, 'afterwards placed between themselves two & myself, giving the lid with some in it to the two lads, which when we had done, went soon after to sleep with our clothes scarcely half dry, on a dirty mat in a corner of the hut amongst a handful of natives & stinking beef'. Temperature 43°-75°

(19 Jun 1825) A hazy morning with some light rain showers. Rising at dawn feeling very tired. The blacksmith saying that the natives were afraid to travel on a Sunday, due to 'a religious form put in force by the missionaries', alongside prohibitions for lighting fires or bathing. Eating breakfast at 8am and trying to convince his companions to continue the journey. The blacksmith promising 'his own people' to assist McRae at 11am, once the rain had ceased

'Having waited to the hour he proposed without any signs of his coming with me from a party of the natives, with whom he had began [at] an early hour in the morning to gamble with for tapa cloths against part of his stinking beef, who [which] the natives eat with equal fondness to its being fresh. The game (nooah [no'a]), which they played at, is one of the most ancient kind with them, & one which is most frequently seen played at among them. This game consists of five small tapa bags, stuffed with cotton or the down of ferns, placed in a row beside each other, underneath one of which are placed a stone, so as to deceive the parties playing, which of the bags it was put under. The players are seated round & form a circle with each a small wand on his hand, with which he strikes the bag that he supposes the stone to be under. There are generally ten in number playing at the same time, with different coloured rags tied to the upper part of their wands by [way] of distinction between the parties. I have been creditably informed that at this game they gamble their hogs & every other thing they possess, nay even their wives, & are always strict in paying their debt of honour to the winner with equal punctuality of a Newmarket [racecourse in Suffolk] sportsman'

Leaving them gambling and continuing the journey in the light rain shortly after 11am with the two lads and 'two natives'. Reaching his companions a few hours later, about to leave without him by land, the canoe having returned the second day after they had left. Travelling about 10 miles, crossing several deep ravines in the rain and wading through rivers ('at times to our middle, with only our shoes off to make a surer footing over the slippy stones'). Arriving at a 'dirty hut' at 7pm, 'drenching wet'. Changing into dry clothes

'The natives lighted a fire & went about cooking a few cabbages, bananas & breadfruit given us on the road. The latter fruit I recommended to be roasted, as Mr T. [Henry Talbot] & Wilson had never yet tasted any. The manner in which the natives cooked in their own way the others, afforded us an opportunity of seeing something new & curious, worthy to be related. They first progress to get some stones heated red hot, then after put into a gourd calabash with a few leaves of the tea tree [ti plant] underneath, & the same above again, on which the cabbages was placed, cut in pieces intermixed with the bananas, who had only the outer skin taken off. Then over all at top more leaves were put to prevent the steam rising upwards. In about a quarter of an hour all was ready, when the calabash was placed before us, & we then commenced eating, using our knives as a substitute for forks, & found our vegetable supper by no means unpalatable cooked in this simple manner. Our own stock of provisions being now reduced to only three biscuits & about a pint of brandy left in Mr T.'s flask, which we found very acceptable, when taking a mouthful to warm us, while we had wet clothes on'

Spreading their mats in the corner of the hut at 9pm, promising to each other that the first to wake up would rouse the others to continue their journey early. Being unable to get anything to eat for the 'long day's journey' to the ship the following day. Temperature 66°-73°

(20 Jun 1825) A cloudy and cold morning. Getting up at 4am and continuing the journey. Crossing several deep ravines and rivers. One of the rivers 'nearly proved of serious consequence' to Henry Talbot, who, being unfamiliar with the safe stepping stones, was swept off his feet, but caught before being swept away to the waterfall by the currents, finding himself with only his head above the water and one of his legs jammed between two stones: 'I trembled with terror that the natives might perhaps quit their hold, & allow him to get with the stream'. McRae calling for the others to help and managing to free Talbot's leg with the barrel of his gun 'without farther hurt than being bruised a little, & his watch partly injured from the water having got inside'. Eventually the whole party managing to get safely across the river. 'The frightened natives had shown so much anxiety for his preservation, that he gave each of them, on being out of danger, a knife as a mark of gratitude for what they had done. These poor fellows during the remainder of the day often talked of his narrow escape from being drowned, which if it had happened, they said Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] would be sure to kill them for not saving his life, so that they would sooner have died with him than go home alive'

On crossing the next river, Wilson falling and breaking the flask with their remaining brandy. Stopping at 9am by a 'pleasantly situated' hut in a grove of breadfruit trees, hoping to procure something to eat. Being given some taro and poi, 'which we was glad to make a breakfast of'. Crossing deep ravines and drinking the fine, clear water in the rivers. Seeing rose apple and breadfruit trees in fruit, numerous ferns and pendanuses [Pandanus] in the ravines. Arriving at the ship at 5pm, 'much fatigued from having to get up & down 70 ravines since we had left Lapahoi [Laupahoehoe] on Sunday, & travelled a distance of more than forty miles', with Mantle & 'two of the natives', the only ones able to keep up the pace, and the rest of the party following behind. Procuring a canoe to cross the last river at the watering place and to take them on board the ship

Talbot and Wilson asking McRae to dine with them, 'having scarcely tasted food since I left the blacksmith on Sunday morning, & who [the blacksmith] is now with the Welshman on their way to Byron's Bay with their ill-flavoured beef'. Finding out that his belongings still remained on shore, and his friend Mr Forder was still living in the old tent: 'I therefore got away unperceived by Messrs T. & W., without having anything to eat or drink, & got with my man Mantle into the same canoe that took us on board to put us again on shore near the tent, where I found Mr Forder, who informed me that he had repeatedly applied for a boat to remove my things to the chief's hut on the opposite side of the bay, where permission was given me to stay at. When I had got myself shifted & had something to eat, such as my salt provision from the ship could afford, his lordship [George Anson Byron] sent for me to drink tea with him, which I declined from being too much fatigued & wanted rest, yet the surgeon [William Davis] & Mr Bloxam [Andrew Bloxam], who are both almost constantly with him, came afterwards in the evening & tormented [me] till after nine o'clock to hear the accounts of our journey'. Temperature 66°-78°

(21 Jun 1825) A fine day. Putting specimens in dry paper in the morning. 'The lad Trounce with the other natives left behind yesterday' arriving at 9am with the rest of McRae's specimens and seeds. Trounce 'begged I would not be angry with him for telling me that the natives upset the canoe with himself & all my things [...] & had nearly drowned him. On hearing this accident, I felt rather mortified for fear that the salt water might have destroyed my seeds'. Mr Young [John Young] assuring McRae that the water was unlikely to be brackish at low tide. Mr A.B. [Andrew Bloxam] visiting to see McRae's mineral collection: '[I] could not get free from him, till I had given him some'

Lord B. [George Anson Byron] visiting and saying McRae 'wanted to shun him last night & this morning for not coming to tea & breakfast with him'. Byron saying he needed the tent for the surveyor [Charles Robert Malden], who had returned from Woahoo [O'ahu]. McRae promising to leave the tent as soon as he had put his plants and seeds in dry paper. Taking John Young as an interpreter to find a hut to rent. Finding one for 'two blankets for three weeks, in preference to money', which was promised for the following day, 'so that my friend [Mr Forder] & myself will once more have a hut of our own, as we had on the island of Woahoo'. Heavy rain in the evening and through the night, 'coming through the old tent, where we lay on the ground'. Temperature 74°-84°

(22 Jun 1825) A fine morning. Going to check whether his new hut was being prepared. About 200 natives coming from the eastern part of the island with their rents for Queen Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu], bringing tapa cloths and mats 'of various dyed patterns', hogs, sweet potatoes, taro, bananas, sugarcanes and coconuts. 'When they had got in presence of their Royal Mistress, who I noticed never attempted to smile or give a pleasant look to any of them when she examined what each of them had brought, although I was told she had not been on the island for the last four years'. Observing that some of the sugarcanes were large, similar to those in the West Indies, and asking to have three of the largest canes. 'The surgeon [William Davis], both the B.'s [Andrew Bloxam and Rowland Bloxam] & draftsman [Robert Dampier] were looking out for something of another kind, a mat, which was given to the former gentleman [....] I was informed it would take one woman twelve months to make it. It is the duty of the women, when they get to a certain period in years, to manufacture all the tapa cloths & mats, as well as many other kinds of labour'

Leaving that 'interesting a group of people [who had] come in to their queen with what little they possessed', to transfer his belongings to the new hut. Offering the two blankets as agreed for payment, but the owner refusing to accept them: '[he] seemed unwilling for me to come, & his wife with some others of their family present shed tears, which rather surprised me to know what occasioned them to alter their minds so soon'. Bringing Young back 'to ascertain what I had done to displease them, & found it was no other complaint than their fear of my burning their hut when I went away, as was customary with themselves'. On being assured this would not happen, the owner accepting McRae as a tenant

Arranging his specimens on his chest instead of a table. The chief of the villages coming at dusk at Young's request to 'taboo' McRae's hut, 'to prevent my being crowded by the natives. The simple form of this native charm gone through by the chief, was his sticking in the ground a few wands at some distance from each other a little way all round the hut, which on being seen by the natives they never durst to offer to venture inside'. Temperature 74°-85°

(23 Jun 1825) A fine day. Travelling shortly after dawn about nine miles east of Byron's Bay [Hilo Bay] to collect plants. Returning at 3pm with few plants, having mostly seen Metrosideros and Pendanus [Pandanus] and some ferns growing on 'broken lumps of lava'. Being told that Henry Talbot and Wilson had visited to invite McRae to accompany them 'to the volcano on the 25th'. Going on board at 5pm to arrange the journey with them, and asking for 'a guide & people to carry our provisions etc'. Returning at dusk. Heavy rain all evening. Temperature 74°-82°

(24 Jun 1825) A fine day. Arranging specimens in the morning. Going out after breakfast to ask the blacksmith they had met at Mouna Kaah [Mauna Kea] to act as a guide, with 'five natives'. The blacksmith suggesting McRae ask Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] 'to order them [the natives] not to leave us till our return, as otherwise they would likely disappoint us on the road'. Preparing for the journey in the afternoon. Temperature 76°-84°

(25 Jun 1825) A fine morning with some light rain showers. Meeting Henry Talbot, Wilson and the guide at 6am. The guide going to the huts to fetch the 'natives hired to go with us [....], which they are always very reluctant to do early in the morning from the effects of cold'. Seeing 'both the queens & one of the gentlemen living on shore with his lordship [George Anson Byron] bathing together, they with their short petticoat on & him the maro [malo, loincloth]'

Setting off at 7am. Byron and several others from the ship intending to follow the initial party in a few days. Stopping for breakfast after about three miles. Stopping again at 1pm for refreshments after about ten miles. Walking for five miles through a wood on a narrow path composed of sharp, broken pieces of lava, 'which we could hardly bear our own weight upon without pain'. Despite the barren appearance of the ground, many of the trees, particularly the Metrosideros, growing to more than 40 feet high, but slender and smaller than those at Mouna Kaah [Mauna Kea]. Ferns growing under the shade of the trees, covering the lava and growing over the path

After about 20 miles' journey, at 6pm reaching 'the first hut newly put up for the accommodation of Lord Byron [George Anson Byron] on his way to the volcano'. Travelling over open country composed of solid, black lava with shorty, stumpy ferns ('chiefly of the Cyathea tribe, which the natives often burn during the dry season'). Seeing three kinds of cranberries, 'perfectly ripe, which we eat freely of & enjoyed them much, although they were somewhat acid to the taste'

Being joined at the hut by 'a great number of the natives' from the neighbouring huts, 'who many of them eagerly approached us to examine our hands & feet without the least diffidence, to ascertain if the skin was of the same colour with our face. But the children who were under ten years of age, a look from us would make them take to their heels directly trembling with fear'. Seeing women nursing the children and carrying them on their backs, never in their arms, and for travelling longer distances, 'the women then tie their children round the neck & thighs on their back with a bandage of tapa cloth, which gives the woman the liberty of her hands to carry something else'

Thick fog and light rain showers in the evening. Temperature 66°-82°

(26 Jun 1825) Not being able to continue the journey until 8am due to rain and fog. Reaching the last huts before the volcano at noon after about ten miles' journey. The guide unsuccessfully bargaining for two hours for some fowls or a hog for the party to take with them, but the price asked ('three times their value') being deemed too high. Continuing the journey 'with what little provisions we had of our own, but not without much grumbling on part of the natives with us, who felt themselves disappointed for not getting a fresh supply of taro, & would, they said, have to cut ferns [to eat] before we returned'. After they had left, the villagers sending the party a couple of fowls and refusing payment

Reaching two small, old hovels at 6pm at the end of an Acacia wood ('which they make their canoes of') after about 18 miles' journey that day over fern-covered lava, with cranberries and straggling bushes of a 'pretty, red, flowering' Metrosideros, tufts of long grass and beds of strawberries growing under the ferns and grass on sandy, pulverized lava ashes. Stopping for the night at the guide's suggestion, 'being given to understand that we was now not far from the volcano, & that we could not get so good a place farther on'. Repairing the huts before dark with ferns, while the natives cooked the fowls, 'which with some salt beef made us a comfortable supper', having had nothing to eat since the morning. The guide leaving ('without our knowledge'), and on his return informing them that he had seen the volcano smoking, 'but having doubted his report being truth from his manner on the journey, which often gave us reason to place but little confidence in one half [of what] he said, it by this time getting dark, none of us felt inclined to leave the huts, which we sadly repented the following morning'. Temperature 60°-78°

(27 Jun 1825) Not being able to continue the journey until 7am after breakfast due to the mist and fog. Sending 'one of the natives' back to the first huts to prepare for their return. Passing an old volcano crater, 'now closed & covered with verdure' to the bottom, more than 1,000 feet deep, with some low, red-flowered Metrosideros bushes growing on the sides. Arriving at a 'low shed' in good condition near the volcano ('which we with ease could have got to last night'), where 'we would have the gratification of watching the motions of the burning craters underneath during the night, which we now lamented to have missed from the ignorance of our guide not knowing the place'. Standing outside the hut for half an hour, 'gazing with astonishment on the immense depth below, covered with clouds of smoke, while at short intervals a terrific noise was distinctly heard among the different numerous burning craters'

The natives making sandals of grass to protect their feet from the lava 'when they got below, where they felt inclined to accompany us without being invited'. Beginning the descent at 8.30am with walking sticks, there being nothing to hold onto apart from short grass tufts growing in sand and loose stones. Reaching the 'first ledge of lava' at 9.30am without anything worse than a few bruises from the falling stones. Reaching the limit where the vegetation ceased, with the burning craters still 500 feet below them. The descent becoming steeper and more difficult on large, loose, sharp-edged stones, mixed with pieces of 'honey-combed lava'. Managing by noon 'with great difficulty & danger to reach the nearest smoking pillar, about 30 feet high, covered with sulphur, which gave it a beautiful yellow appearance'. Stopping to wait for the natives, 'some of which were lame, & had their naked legs bleeding from falling on their way'. Walking over the hollow layer of lava requiring 'the greatest caution', feeling their way with their walking sticks before placing their feet. 'One poor fellow, who was carrying a calabash of water, which he broke, lamed himself so much that two of the rest was obliged to assist him off the lava, & return back, having got besides his lameness much frightened at seeing the numerous wide rents before him that we had crossed. Some of these openings were constantly smoking & smelt so strong of brimstone [sulphur], which got up our nostrils, when going over them, nearly to suffocate us'. Seeing sudden bursts of smoke at intervals, 'strongly impregnated with brimstone, which obliged us to be careful to avoid when near it picking up specimens of the hot lava covered with sulphur'. The natives ('who all of them experienced both fear & difficulty in coming this far') wanting to return to the top, 'which was readily granted, when ourselves four went farther on to examine another pillar, about 50 feet high, burning red at the top like a furnace & emitting to a considerable distance from it lumps of soft lava, & at times cinders of various colours, which on our getting near it, the terrific noise kept up underneath everywhere round it [...] intimidated our fears while we remained, that the part under us might perhaps be torn to pieces every minute, such was the frightful loud noise'. Everything covered in thick smoke and the smell of sulphur, the burning noise resembling the forge of a blacksmith

Starting their return journey back to the top at 1pm and ascending to the top, a mile from the hut. Temperature in the shade 92° and in the sun 'exceeding the height of my thermometer, which was only 132°'. The volcano located about 40 miles south-east of Byron's Bay [Hilo Bay], at the foot of Mouna Roa [Mauna Loa]. The circumference of the volcano ('according to the statements of the missionaries, who had measured it some years ago') seven miles around the top edge, and five miles around the 'almost circular' basin 1,000-1,200 feet deep, with a ledge about half-way down. 'The number of burning craters in form of pillars exceeded twelve', some of them 50 feet high, 'generally of a bronze, shining colour of various shapes, with several unequal openings' issuing sudden clouds of smoke. The surface of the crater varyingly composed of sharp-edged granite stones, mixed with other hard stones of red, white or black colour, but primarily black and greyish brittle lava ('often undulated like the waves of the sea') forming hollow, burning passages full of red and white ashes: 'when the thin crests above the passage are trod upon, it easily falls in'. Most of the lava crystallized in small glass-like particles on top, 'which, if fallen upon, tore the skin of our hands & feet through our clothes & instantly brought blood'. The west side of the crater steep and without vegetation, while on the south and east sides vegetation growing to the first ledge, 'chiefly the common red, flowering Metrosideros, now got quite dwarf & tufts of two or three kinds of dry grasses'. Seeing near the top a large area covered with brimstone, resembling the chalky cliffs of Dover and Gravesend

Reaching the summit at 2pm, with sanderswood [sandalwood] bushes in flower near the top along with some other plants. Seeing several hot springs under deep, narrow openings, spread over half a mile from the top of the volcano, with 'luxuriant' patches of green moss growing on them 'from the moisture occasioned by the steam, which kept constantly smoking, & when we held the palms of our hands over it, large drops collected upon them in a few seconds. Some of the water, which we drank, lying near the surface, was only warm'. Seeing two temporary sheds built by 'the natives' to provide shelter when cutting trees in the woods for building canoes. Finding several pieces of the trunks of Cyathea ferns, cooked in the steam, 'which the natives were glad to find & eat of [...] & [which] was by no means unpalatable'

Reaching the huts of the previous night at 4pm, too rushed to stop and pick cranberries and strawberries on the way. On opening their calabashes for refreshment, 'we found that the native left behind in the morning with orders to go back to the first huts to have something provided for us by the time we came up, had made free with the greatest part of our biscuit, which we could carry now in our pockets, & made use of the calabashes for our tender, brittle lava specimens. Some of the sulphur, which I had put in a seed paper when down in the volcano at the first pillar, had already burned through both the paper & my coat pocket. Its taste was more of acid than of sulphur'. Continuing the journey after packing the lava specimens 'as secure as circumstances would allow'

Arriving at the next huts shortly after dark. Finding 'the native waiting for us with some poi & tarro [taro], being all he could procure for us'. Warming the taro by the fire and mixing the poi with a little sugar, brought by Henry Talbot and Wilson 'for that purpose to take away its sour taste': 'we managed to satisfy our hunger'. Going to sleep, intending to leave at dawn to return home. Temperature 58°-92°

(28 Jun 1825) A fine but foggy morning. Setting off shortly after dawn. After about four miles, being surprised to meet so early 'the advance party of Lord Byron [George Anson Byron] going to the volcano, consisting of about 30 natives with the head chief (Maro) at Byron's Bay [Hilo Bay] as their leader, to have fires lighted to cook for his lordship what was necessary by the time he arrived'. Shortly afterwards meeting the naturalist [Andrew Bloxam], one of the missionaries, and a little later the surgeon [William Davis], the draftsman [Robert Dampier] and the chaplain [Rowland Bloxam] 'with two natives carrying his hammock, slung to a pole ready for him to get into when he felt tired', then the surveyor [Charles Robert Malden], the first lieutenant, another missionary and 'a boy midshipman' with Byron, followed by 'another boy midshipman, who had his hammock with him ready for to be carried like the chaplain's'

Telling Byron they required provisions: 'he requested that we should take what fowls or anything else we wanted from the natives with him as we passed, who had plenty of everything carrying for his use. Although his lordship had been very lame for the last fortnight from the kick of a horse on his leaving the island of Woahoo [O'ahu], he kept up on the journey with better spirits than most of them'. The first lieutenant had put his foot through his shoes, tying a handkerchief 'to keep his toes from the lava, till he got another pair sent'. 'The cavalcade of natives attending on his lordship, which we was particular in reckoning their number, exceeded 200, composed of men, women & children, loaded with all kinds of provisions, struggling one after the other in a narrow path that would only admit of one person, who occupied alike nearly a mile in length, which afforded us when passing them [an] amusing sight to see so many half-naked beings, some with a dozen of fowls tied by the feet hung on both ends of a stick thrown across the shoulder like the rabbit-men in London [rabbits were bred and sold for meat and fur], while others had a hog tied by the four feet, thrown over the neck, carried on the back, & some had them tied with a rope, drove before, when more than a hundred others were loaded with calabashes of various shapes & sizes, containing poi, water etc, and a number of others carrying bundles of fish & tarro [taro], sweet potatoes etc, tied up in the leaves of the banana & the tea tree [ti plant]'

At 8am reaching the huts where they had spent their first night and staying until after 9am to roast the four fowls and the sweet potatoes given to them by Byron: 'the natives with us [...] we noticed eat the entrails, head & feet of the fowls, after warming them a little before the fire, while the rest was getting done for us. The manner in which they cooked our fowls, when they had picked off the feathers, was afterwards dividing them into four quarters, each of which they put on the end of a stick placed in the ground in a leaning posture over the fire'

Meeting a party of midshipmen at 11am, guided by the Welshman they had met at Mouna Kaah [Mauna Kea]. Arriving opposite the ship at 3pm, 'much fatigued' from walking fast in the heat of the day 'to be home at this hour on account of a trifling wager made with some of L.B. [Lord Byron] party in the morning, having travelled 40 miles in twelve hours over a narrow, uneven lava path, which destroyed all our shoes, that had been new when we left'. The natives with their luggage arriving at dusk, 'very tired & lame'. Temperature 62°-82°

(29 Jun 1825) A fine day. Arranging specimens of plants and lava. Temperature 76°-87°

(30 Jun 1825) A fine, but 'exceedingly warm' day. Arranging specimens and seeds

A 30-year old man dying in a neighbouring hut in the evening, 'which on my going to see him, found that the relations had taken him out of his hut to breathe his last in a temporary shed opposite, covered with coconut leaves, owing to a superstitious custom among them of never afterwards inhabiting the hut which anyone by chance might happen to die in, but immediately burn to destroy it. The body was lying on a dirty mat, rolled up in a piece of tapa cloth with a few of the natives over it making a howling noise, & when I stood near them enquiring what was the matter, they leaned their head on one hand, while they pointed the other towards the sky, where they said he had gone to sleep, & parted from them forever'

Asking John Young ('who was in the habit of calling upon me frequently in the evenings') about the seeming absence of funerals, despite having witnessed several deaths, 'to which he informed me that he never had but one opportunity of seeing one himself, & that through a great favour, which took place in the dead of the night by a few old men & women, who always are entrusted to bury the dead about this hour with great secrecy, for what reasons he never could learn, only supposed it to have originated from an old superstitious custom. Some of them he said never buried the dead, but concealed them for a certain time till the flesh decayed off the bones sufficiently dry to be tied up afterwards inside the roof of their huts, wrapped up in a bundle of tapa cloth'

Temperature 74°-90°

(1 Jul 1825) A fine, but 'exceedingly warm' day. Arranging specimens and seeds and writing. 'His lordship [George Anson Byron]' and the party returning from the volcano: 'some of them got so lame that they did not arrive till dusk'. Temperature 76°-90°

(2 Jul 1825) A showery morning. Going at 5am with Henry Talbot and Joseph Goodrich to a waterfall 60 feet high above Byron's Bay [Hilo Bay] about six miles away. Talbot and Goodrich leaving at 2pm in order to be back home for dinner, and McRae staying in the woods until dusk with Mantle, collecting plants. Finding some new plants, including a beautiful climbing plant with crimson flowers, resembling an Erythrina, several Metrosideros and ferns

Being told on his return that 'his lordship [George Anson Byron]' was intending to sail on Thursday 7 Jul 'for certain, which prevents me going again to the woods, from having a number of specimens & seeds to dry & arrange that cannot be accomplished on board for want of not having a place of my own'. Temperature 74°-86°

(3 Jul 1825) Sunday. A fine morning. Arranging specimens and seeds and writing. Another party of 'gentlemen from the ship' going to the volcano. Temperature 74°-86°

(4 Jul 1825) A rainy morning. 'Busily employed in the forenoon as yesterday'. The weather improving at noon. Planting the 'fine plants' he had collected for taking to England. Going three miles eastwards in the afternoon to collect more young Metrosideros plants. Heavy rain in the evening. Temperature 73°-80°

(5 Jul 1825) A fine morning with some light rain showers. Arranging specimens and seeds. The party from the volcano returning. Being told it was to be the last night on shore and that he should board the ship the following day 'with all my traps, three days sooner than I wished, which prevents me from having the opportunity of a few more journeys'. Temperature 74°-89°

(6 Jul 1825) A fine morning. Packing in the morning and taking his belongings to the beach in the afternoon. Embarking on a boat at 4pm, 'once more to live in the midst of bustle & noise, the ship being crowded with natives & their provisions for Woahoo [O'ahu], besides several new canoes & 140 large bundles of tapa cloths, received by Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] for rent'. Temperature 72°-80°

(7 Jul 1825) A fine morning with a light south-westerly wind. Sailing at 5am for Woahoo [O'ahu] with both the queens, two missionaries with their wives and families and 'upwards of 100 natives'. Anchoring at 7am due to lack of wind. Sailing again at 8am, accompanied by the surveyor's [Charles Robert Malden] schooner with John Young on board 'to be landed on the coast at where he lives, on her way round to Karakaakua Bay [Kealakekua Bay, Hawai'i Island] on the south side of Owhyee [Hawai'i Island], where Captain Cook [James Cook] was killed [Cook was killed on 14 Feb 1779 in Kealekekua Bay after taking Kalani'opu'u-a-Kaiamamao, also known as Kaleiopuu, Tereaboo or Terreeoboo, king of O'ahu, as hostage, following the theft of his ship's cutter]'. Light variable winds in the afternoon. Boats lowered to tow the ship. Fresh breezes at dusk. Temperature 71°-76°

(8 Jul 1825) A fine morning with fresh easterly breezes. Reaching Diamond Point [Diamond Head] near Hana-rura [Honolulu] at 5pm. 'Raised topsails to shorten sail for to stand off & on the land for the night' at 7pm. Temperature 73°-78°

(9 Jul 1825) A fine morning with moderate north-easterly breezes. Anchoring at Hana-rura [Honolulu] at 7am. The pilot, Alexander Adams, coming on board to say that 'the Asia 64, a Spanish ship with two brigs in company, who were pirates on the coast of Callifornia [California, United States of America], was reported to touch here for supplies, by a schooner lately arrived from the coast. In consequence of which all was soon bustle to get the natives on shore with the luggage as soon as possible that the guns might be mounted in readiness for action'

His lordship [George Anson Byron] asking McRae at 9am to go on shore to get his plant boxes on board in case they sailed in the evening to join the schooner at Karakaakua Bay [Kealakekua Bay]. Returning on board at 4pm to find the natives gone and all the guns mounted and loaded, 'the sailors in high spirits wishing for their reported enemies to come in sight to give them battle that they might gain prize'. Temperature 73°-78°

(10 Jul 1825) Sunday. A fine morning with a fresh north-easterly wind. A church service being performed in the morning. Going on shore after dinner, having been informed the ship would not sail until the following day and would not return to this port, 'therefore thought it necessary to go & see, before I left for good, what plants there was alive of those brought from England'. Meeting 'Marin the Spaniard [Francisco de Paula Marin], whom I have before had occasion to mention', at William Pitt's garden. Marin helping McRae to count the number of plants: 'we found them only six, & without leaves', Marin saying he had removed the rest to his farm in the mountains, and many of them were 'doing well'. 'To Mr Marin, for his diligence as a farmer the Sandwich Islands, particularly Woahoo [O'ahu], where he resides, may be said to be under some obligations for his introducing & multiplying various kinds of our animals, which in a few years will be plentiful on the island'. Asking Marin to enquire of Pitt 'if he would give me some patterns of their native tapa cloths for the Society, & received for answer that he would consider it'. Staying at Novara's inn with 'one of the gentlemen on board'. Temperature 75°-78°

(11 Jul 1825) A fine morning with strong winds, raising clouds of dust in the town, so 'as to be almost impossible for persons to walk along the different streets without being in danger of getting blind & nearly suffocated'. Hearing that William Pitt had got married to a 'young woman, who with her sister had before lived with him many years as his wives. Pitt is said to be about the age of 60, & his bride 19. Their marriage is the second, which has ever yet taken place on these islands'. Going on board the ship at 1pm to find all the preparations made for sailing. Temperature 73°-76°

(12 Jul 1825) A fine morning with fresh north-easterly breezes. His lordship [George Anson Byron] being saluted with 13 guns from the forts and being accompanied by William Pitt, Boki and several other chiefs to bid farewell. 'It was now generally understood by all on board that we were to leave the islands as soon as possible for Otahite [Tahiti], after touching at Karakaakua Bay [Kealakekua Bay] for to take on board the surveyors out of the Sandwich Island schooner, given them for their use by the government to survey on the coast'

Pitt, 'while on board, scarcely ever indulged himself with his accustomed habit of being seated when seen in his hut on shore, but walked alone or in company, eagerly examining all parts of the ship till we got underway, when to our surprise he requested the favour of his lordship to make all sail & get out for some distance to sea that he might see how we sailed, & also wished to see the ship's company, who to gratify him were immediately mustered on the quarter deck with the band playing music all the time, when he was going round with his lordship to examine the men & see their number, who, as is customary with them on board a man-awar [man-of-war] touched their hats as they passed them, which afforded to some of the young gentlemen rather severe remarks to be made upon him, for his having the honour of the sailors touching their hats to a half-civilised savage, unaccustomed to such honour from his own bare-headed countrymen'. The visitors being sent on the shore at 3pm. Pitt being honoured with a salute of 13 guns from the ship. Sailing for Karakaakua Bay with fresh breezes and cloudy weather. Temperature 73°-79°

(13 Jul 1825) A fine morning with a moderate north-easterly wind. Several men being punished, 'chiefly for drunkenness & disobedience of orders'. Moderate winds and cloudy at dusk. Temperature 78°-80°

(14 Jul 1825) A fine morning with light westerly winds. Coming in sight of the snow-covered mountains of Owhyee [Hawai'i Island] above the clouds at dawn. Anchoring at Karakaakua Bay [Kealakekua Bay] at 10am and going on shore at 1pm. Seeing several of the midshipmen, 'who had gone before me in different canoes from alongside the ship with natives in them trafficking with persons on board, chiefly shells of no variety, [and] some eating the coconuts that grew on the tree where we was shown a cannon that had gone through [damaged] the trunk, near where Captain Cook [James Cook] was killed', others satisfying their curiosity looking at where Cook had fallen. Going to examine caves nearby dividing Karona [Ka'Awaloa, Hawai'i Island] from Karakaakua. Seeing in the first cave 'several dozens of old muskets', broken and rusty. The party searching 'the corners for curiosities' and finding an old fishing rod made of human bone, and a wooden club shaped like a thigh bone. McRae being given the rod to ask the chief (Nai [Naihe, also known as Nahi, Naihe-Haiha or Naihenui, chief orator and councillor in the kingdom of Hawai'i]) to be given it, 'but was, on seeing the chief at his hut, prevented from having it by the interference of his lordship, who unluckily for me happened to be at the time present, & who requested the club as well as the fishing rod, to be restored, to go where it was taken from. I felt as may be imagined not a little disappointed for his interference in so trifling a thing, that I was sure if the chaplain or any other of the [...] officers [...] had wished for it they would not have received no denial'

Going to 'the spot where Captain Cook's body was said to be divided by the chiefs' at the top of a hill. Discovering that 'the place had been held sacred for some time', judging by the old lava walls, 'about 20 feet square & from four to five feet high & nearly the same in thickness'. Going to another hill in the bay, similar to Karona, but consisting of 'a few straggling huts on uneven broken pieces of black lava' by the sea, with a few coconut trees growing on lava ('it may appear astonishing')

Seeing at Karona the missionaries' 'tolerably good' hut near Nai's hut ('who is one of the most civilised & religious chiefs on the islands'). Seeing 'near where the immortal Cook was cut up, to be divided among the chiefs', a fine, white, shrubby Diadelpha [Diadelphous] plant, growing on the lava near the sea, 'with scarcely any other vegetation nowhere near it'. Collecting plenty of seeds of it, hoping to be able to grow it in England

Returning on board at dusk 'in a native canoe for want of a ship's boat being on shore'. Temperature 78°-80°

(15 Jul 1825) A fine day. Staying on board the ship for the afternoon and giving up on his thoughts of going to the woods to collect plants, not knowing when the ship would be sailing. Picking 'the few plants growing on barren fragments of black lava, which lay in large masses occupying the sea coast' for several miles inland. Beyond that, the land woody and mountainous with more vegetation and cultivations of sweet potatoes and taro, and breadfruit and banana trees growing, giving the land a 'luxurious appearance'. 'The whole coast on this side [of] the island presents a prospect of the most horrid & dreary kind. The ground is everywhere covered with cinders & intersected in places with black streaks & hollow parts underneath which mark the course of lava from the mountain of Mouna Roa [Mauna Loa]', the lava 'piled irregularly' forming sharp points in many places. 'It is surprising to see the industry of the natives where they have taken to cultivate spots of ground about three miles from the coast. These they have cleared away the lava, frequently to the depth of four feet, to get to a more fertile soil of rich ashes & a light mould to grow sweet potatoes, taro & other vegetables, with the tapa, which are generally enclosed with stone walls, or rather lava cleared off the ground'. Unlike at Woahoo [O'ahu] and Mowee [Maui], taro not cultivated in ponds of water, and consequently not growing as high, 'but it is more dry & farinaceous & equally good to that grown in water'. The sea abounding 'with a variety of excellent fish, many of whom possess handsome colours'. Unlike the fertile Byron's Bay [Hilo Bay] on the other side of the island, the land here 'more gloomy & inhospitable [and] dreary'. The water in the hollows of the lava usually brackish

Being shown at Karakaakua [Kealakekua Bay] a large heap of stones by a sandy beach, the location of James Cook's observatory, 'which was formerly a morai [a place for burial and worship] & religious place for human sacrifices'. Seeing nearby three coconut trees 'with cannon-shot holes through them from the firing which took place upon the natives when Cook was killed'

Observing some tobacco plants and banana trees 'for immediate use' in the small lava-fenced gardens around the huts. Seeing 'a dog getting cooked for one of the chiefs, who consider them better eating than any other of their animals, which is done in the same manner with cooking hogs. The throat is first cut, & when the bleeding ceases, they then place the animal over a large fire to get the body deprived of the hair, instead of using hot water, & when the inside is cleaned, it is afterwards filled with hot stones & buried in the ground for some length of time, covered over with leaves & earth. Their filthy manner of killing dogs, which is the employ of several at the time, & are immediately after cooked & eat by the chiefs, is too disgusting to describe, particularly the ravenous way they consume the entrails, while the rest is cooking'

Returning on board the ship at dusk. Discovering that his lordship [George Anson Byron] and others had visited a morai nine miles to the east of the bay [Hale o Keawe], 'where they brought away from several idols, that had been formerly worshipped by the natives, & some other curiosities'. Asking permission from Byron to go and visit the morai the following day. Temperature 76°-81°

(16 Jul 1825) A fine day. Going with a party to see the morai 'or temple, formerly the sacred depository for the remains of the high chiefs' [morai is a burial place; heiau is a temple]. Meeting on their way an old priest coming on board with his canoe and taking him along in their boat. The morai located on the east side of a small bay, 'pleasantly surrounded with several huts underneath thinly scattered coconut trees', but with no cultivated plants

On entering the morai, the old priest 'who had on a straw hat & a cotton shirt, now took them both off and only left on his maro [malo]. On opening the door, which was made of a few old boards, we on entering found only an empty hut of the most filthy description, with a quantity of human bones in heaps under mats at each end of the hut, not yet many of them dry, & disgusting to the sight. In the middle were several effigies in representation of the deceased chiefs, tied to a bundle of tapa cloth containing the bones of each person whom the effigies represented. Most of the effigies were made of wood, but the one representing the late Tamahamaah [Kamehameha I] was substituted by a mask of European manufacture, & was particularly more finely dressed than the others, with handsome native tapa cloths. The party who had been here before us yesterday, having carried away mostly everything which could be given them, left the inside now for us entirely empty with only bones & skulls, which we durst not venture to ask for, & to come away without some memorial from the only morai now standing on these islands'. Asking permission from the old priest to take 'some of the ancient weather-beaten carved figures outside'. Putting them in the boat, McRae with two others returning by land to make space. 'The morai is a small, thatched hut, fenced round with sticks to the height of about six feet, kept together by two rows of ruling bars, where in front at the entrance stand upright, fixed in the ground or rather lava, several various-sized wooden, rude carved hideous figures in representation of their former gods, which they none set but little value upon, & are rarely met with in the huts of the natives'

Returning home by the coast on the uneven lava-covered ground. Seeing only a few plants, including tufts of low Euphorbia, Convolvulus, Sida and a diadelphous plant 'seen common near the spot where the chiefs shared between them the body of Captain Cook [James Cook]', and a species of Hibiscus with yellow flowers, used for producing yellow dye for tapa cloths

Seeing on the way 'a number of small heaps of lava, placed over the dead slain here at one of Tamahamaah's first battles for the conquest of the island'. Returning on board the ship at 4pm. Finding the priest 'waiting for us to make him some present for the images he had given us at the morai, for which we gave him a few articles of clothing, & [he] seemed perfectly satisfied, more so than if we had given him money'

The 'commanding gentleman' sending for McRae, 'for me to take away my wooden gods, who he said were only fit for the cook to boil the coppers in the galley, forgetting himself that he was more lucky on visiting the morai before me to get feather images of more consequence, besides other curiosities that would be denied me like the fishing rod, because I was not considered by the natives to be a chief like himself & others on board'. Temperature 76°-79°

(17 Jul 1825) Sunday. A fine day. Going on shore in the afternoon 'to see after my linen, given to a black American to be washed soon after we had come to anchor, who yet I found had left them untouched in the bag as they were given him, which put me out of temper with him for being disappointed to go to sea again without having them washed'. Sending the linen on board the ship 'for fear of the natives stealing them'

Joining 'several of the gentlemen from on board' to see a monument erected the previous day by his lordship [George Anson Byron] to the memory of James Cook, on the top of a black lava hill above Karona [Ka'Awaloa, Hawai'i Island], 'where it is said his body was divided by the chiefs'. The monument, a 16-foot high capsin bar [capstan bar] from the ship painted white and fixed in a heap of lava, 'that had been raised by the natives formerly when they made the square wall round this spot, whom they now for years look upon as consecrated ground'. A small copper plate fixed on top of the bar, with an inscription ('in small print, rather difficult to be read on account of its height'): 'In memory of Capt James Cook RN, who discovered these islands in the year of our Lord 1778. This humble monument is erected by his fellow countrymen in the year of our Lord 1825'

Returning on board the ship in the evening to find preparations being made for sailing in expectation of favourable winds. Temperature 76°-79°

(18 Jul 1825) A fine morning. Sailing at 12.10am with light west-north-westerly breezes for Otahite [Tahiti]. Leaving 'these interesting islands' with 'all kinds of provisions and about one hundred live hogs. Yet for all the civilities & plentiful supply of provisions we received from the natives during our short stay of little more than two months, none on board I believe regretted leaving so fine a climate, or the uncivilised beings who inhabit it, which with the exception of a few in high rank, who have adopted a little the European customs, still retain the manners & customs nearly the same as given [described] by the unfortunate Cook [James Cook], who fell a sacrifice to their barbarity. The dagger, which is said to have committed the fatal deed, is, I am now informed, in the possession of a gentleman on board with every other particular circumstance relating the misunderstanding, which took place between the parties at the time. But I am inclined to doubt whether such a thing as a dagger at that period had been among them, or why should it be held secret from Vancouver [George Vancouver] & other navigators, who were equally anxious to gain every information respecting the occurrence that took place at the time & with what weapon the fatal act was committed. The small English drum presented by Cook to the king is now in his lordship's possession, with some other things presented by him when he visited the islands, which have been in the morai for many years, & were given his lordship with other interesting things at the time he visited that place a few days ago'. Temperature 76°-81°

Listing plant names in Hawaiian and in English, including ana or ava ('piper, the roots of which they chew to intoxicate themselves') [kava, known in Hawaiian as awa, Piper methysticum], corena ('Indian corn') [flint corn], halla ('pineapple. Not plentiful'), nicoi ('capsicum') and paka ('tobacco') [here the journal includes a list of 21 more plant names]

(19 Jul 1825) A fine morning with fresh easterly and north-easterly breezes, squally in the afternoon and moderate and cloudy at dusk. Temperature 76°-82°

(20 Jul 1825) A fine morning with fresh easterly and north-easterly breezes, and squally and rainy from 4pm. Temperature 78°-81°

(21 Jul 1825) A fine morning with a light north-easterly wind, changing to east-north-easterly at dusk. Temperature 78°-80°

(22 Jul 1825) A fine morning with light easterly and north-easterly breezes, cloudy at noon and squally with rain at dusk. Temperature 78°-82°

(23 Jul 1825) A fine morning with light easterly and north-easterly breezes, and a moderate wind at dusk, shifting to south-easterly. Temperature 80°-82°

(24 Jul 1825) A fine morning with light variable winds, calming at noon, and moderate easterly and south-easterly breezes at dusk. Temperature 81°-83°

(25-26 Jul 1825) A fine morning with light south-easterly breezes and rain at dusk. Temperature 80°-83°

(27 Jul 1825) A fine morning with fresh easterly and southerly breezes. Crossing the Equator in the afternoon. Fresh easterly and north-easterly breezes at dusk. Temperature 79°-81°

(28 Jul 1825) A fine morning with fresh north-easterly and easterly breezes, shifting to easterly and north-easterly at dusk, moderate and cloudy. Temperature 78°-80°

(29 Jul 1825) A fine morning with light easterly and north-easterly breezes, shifting to southerly and south-easterly at noon and to easterly and south-easterly at dusk, moderate and cloudy. Temperature 80°-81°

(30 Jul 1825) A foggy morning with variable winds and light rain showers. Seeing low land towards the south-east in the morning from the masthead. Shortening sail and lowering the whale boat and the cutter to land the surveyors [Charles Robert Malden and the assistant surveyor], the naturalist [Andrew Bloxam], two lieutenants, the surgeon [William Davis], the chaplain [Rowland Bloxam] and McRae. Seeing several sharks and other fish near the shore and flocks of seabirds hovering above the boats. Landing through a high surf on a fine coral sandy beach, covered with shells, mostly large cockles weighing up to 15lbs. Seeing numerous small, red crabs occupying 'the shell of another fish'

Dividing into separate parties to examine the island. The island low and flat, covered with vegetation, 'but without variety', including Sida, two or three kinds of grape and, by the coast, some low bushes of Tournefortia, 'covered with birds that were remarkably tame, & suffered us to approach them to be easily taken with our hands'

Seeing remains of several huts built of coral slabs 'without any timber, nearly of a square form, which on our falling in with them, gave us every reason to suspect that the island had been formerly inhabited by some persons or other, who had been probably unfortunately shipwrecked, & suffered to remain while they lived without being discovered'. The surveyor leaving in one of the huts a sealed bottle, brought on shore for that purpose, 'containing some written inscription, which I am ignorant of its contents'. Attempting unsuccessfully to find signs of cultivation. Finding some fresh water in the holes among the coral rocks away from the sea

'At the moment our stay on shore became most interesting, we had the mortification to hear the report of the recall gun fired for us to return on board', preventing them from finding out more about the former inhabitants, 'which very probable, had our stay been longer to make better search, some important information would have been made. Perhaps not unlikely something concerning the unfortunate Mr de la Peruse [Jean-Francois de Galaup de Laperouse, French naval officer and explorer] & his crew, who the world still remain doubtful where he was lost in these seas [the expedition disappeared in the Pacific Ocean in 1788, but no evidence of their fate was found until 1826, when it was suggested they had shipwrecked in Santa Cruz Islands]. This little island, which is a new discovery of the Blonde, & since named Malden Island [Kiribati] in honour of our surveyor [Charles Robert Malden], is about twelve miles in circumference & very low, scarcely seen fifteen miles distant out at sea'. Seeing numerous 'curious' seabirds, but no quadruped animals, apart from a small species of short-tailed rat, seemingly wild, disappearing into holes, and which could not be caught

Sailing with strong breezes, squalls and rain. Temperature 79°-81°

(31 Jul 1825) A fine day with a light south-easterly wind and light rain showers. Temperature 79°-82°

(1 Aug 1825) A fine morning with light easterly and south-easterly winds. Seeing another island at 11am from the masthead, but being unable to reach it, 'being too far to windward of our course'. The island resembling Malden Island [Kiribati]. Moderate wind and fine weather at sunset. Temperature 78°-81°

(2 Aug 1825) A fine morning with moderate south-easterly breezes and a heavy swell from the east. Temperature 80°-82°

(3 Aug 1825) A hazy morning with fresh easterly and south-easterly breezes and heavy rain in the afternoon. Temperature 79°-81°

(4 Aug 1825) A fine but foggy morning with fresh easterly and southerly breezes and squally. 'Being now among so many undiscovered islands, several on board are not without fear of getting wrecked upon some of them, which occasions many to keep up till late before going to bed'. Temperature 79°-82°

(5 Aug 1825) A fine morning with fresh easterly and south-easterly breezes, fresh and cloudy. Temperature 78°-80°

(6 Aug 1825) A day morning with fresh westerly breezes. Temperature 78°-80°

(7 Aug 1825) A fine morning with moderate easterly and southerly breezes, and squally and rainy from noon. Temperature 76°

(8 Aug 1825) A fine but hazy morning with moderate south-easterly breezes. Seeing another low island at noon. Sailing within four miles of the island. The surveyors unable to land due to the high surf, but reporting having seen 'some natives making signs for them to come on shore'. The coast 'well wooded' with low trees. His lordship [George Anson Byron] wanting to wait by the island for the night, 'to make for the discovery respecting it tomorrow'. Temperature 76°-78°

(9 Aug 1825) A fine morning with fresh easterly and northerly breezes. Sailing towards the shore at dawn and shortening sail at 9am. Seeing several canoes approaching the ship. The people coming on board 'were of a much fairer complexion than the natives of the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii], but like them mostly naked, having only petticoats of tapa cloth half-way down the thigh from the waist. Their language was Otahitian [Tahitian], which resembles a little the Sandwich Islanders [Hawaiian], & could only understand but a few words'. A large double canoe paddled by six men approaching the ship with 'persons better dressed than any of the rest [...] These had on straw hats, & white shirts with blue nankin [nankeen, Chinese cotton] trousers, which convinced us that vessels must have touched here before us, & that the island was no new discovery'. One of the people giving a piece of written paper to the captain saying they were Otahitian missionaries, sent to the island by the missionaries at Otahite [Tahiti] from the London Missionary Society

Wanting to have more information about the island, but no one on board being able to understand the language. Giving some tapa cloths as presents, 'which they accepted with eagerness, & afterwards approached with more confidence, which encouraged them to walk about different parts of the ship, measuring her length with their hands like the Sandwich Islanders'

His lordship [George Anson Byron] going on shore with 'a few others' and returning on board at 4pm. The party reporting that the island was low and flat, covered with vegetation and inhabited by about 200 people, living in 'neat built huts in perfect harmony on an open flat, surrounded with wood resembling a gentleman's park in England'. Seeing a chapel in the village, and hogs, goats and fowls in the gardens, with cultivations of bananas, taro, sweet potatoes and arrowroot, but not seeing any freshwater springs, despite being given some good water to drink. Learning that an American ship had visited the island previously, and the name of the island was Mowtec [Mauke, also known as Akatokamanava, Cook Islands]

Sailing in the evening with fresh south-easterly breezes. Temperature 73°-77°

(10 Aug 1825) A fine morning with fresh south-easterly breezes. Squally with rain during the day and evening. Temperature 65°-79°

(11 Aug 1825) A hazy morning with moderate easterly and south-easterly breezes. Temperature 65°-66°

(12 Aug 1825) A fine morning with moderate south-easterly breezes. Temperature 61°-67.5°

(13 Aug 1825) A fine morning with light variable winds. Temperature 64°-69°

(14 Aug 1825) A fine morning with a light westerly and northerly wind, shifting to northerly and easterly, with moderate and fine weather. Temperature 65°-70°

(15 Aug 1825) A fine but hazy morning with strong north-easterly and northerly breezes. 'Somewhat cold' at dusk. Temperature 62°-67°

(16 Aug 1825) A hazy morning with fresh northerly and north-westerly breezes. Rain during the night. Temperature 61°-66°

(17 Aug 1825) A hazy morning with moderate westerly and northerly breezes. Heavy rain during the night. Seeing several Cape pigeons [Cape petrel] around the ship. The wind shifting to westerly and south-westerly and squally with light rain. Temperature 60°-64°

(18 Aug 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with moderate south-westerly and westerly breezes. Two of the men being punished, 'one for theft, & the other for skulking from his duty, the former with 30 lashes, & the latter with 12'. Temperature 58.5°-59°

(19 Aug 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with moderate westerly and south-westerly breezes, squally with light rain at 4pm. Moderate westerly and southerly breezes at dusk, with a heavy swell from the west. Temperature 59°-69°, with the change in the temperature being 'very sensibly felt on board'

(20 Aug 1825) A fine morning with light westerly and southerly breezes, the wind shifting to northerly at dusk with light rain. Temperature 58°-61°

(21 Aug 1825) Heavy rain in the morning with strong north-easterly breezes and squally. The wind increasing almost to a gale. Lowering the topsail yards and masts. Strong breezes with squalls, sleet and heavy rain. Temperature 58°-59°

(22 Aug 1825) A fine morning with fresh north-westerly breezes, shifting to westerly and north-westerly in the evening with squalls, and later hail, thunder and lightning. Temperature 57°-59°

(23 Aug 1825) A fine morning with strong westerly breezes, later squally with rain. Temperature 56°-59°

(24 Aug 1825) Strong westerly breezes and squally with rain, moderate and fine at noon, the wind shifting to a moderate south-westerly and southerly. Temperature 55°-57°

(25 Aug 1825) A fine morning with a moderate south-westerly wind, and light southerly and south-easterly breezes at noon, calming at 2pm and light north-easterly and northerly breezes at dusk. Temperature 56°-58°

(26 Aug 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with moderate north-easterly breezes. The air 'somewhat chilly' in the evening. Temperature 59°-61°

(27 Aug 1825) Fresh westerly and northerly breezes, hazy with a light rain. Moderate and cloudy in the evening. 'We have now for some days given up the hopes of seeing the island of Otahite [Tahiti], which I have to regret much for not seeing Mr & Mrs Charlton [Richard Charlton and Betsy Bastram-Charlton] and the variety of plants, which I was given to understand were numerous, & quite different from the tribe of the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii]'. Temperature 57°-60°

(28 Aug 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with moderate westerly breezes, fine weather later and strong south-westerly breezes at dusk, at times squally and rainy. Temperature 55°-58°

(29 Aug 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with fresh south-easterly breezes, shifting to southerly and later to south-westerly, with squalls at times. Temperature 56°-58°

(30 Aug 1825) A fine morning with moderate southerly and south-easterly breezes, shifting to south-easterly, squally and rainy later. Temperature 54°-57°

(31 Aug 1825) A cloudy morning with fresh southerly breezes, cloudy and strong south-westerly breezes at noon, and southerly breezes and squally in the evening. Temperature 54°-56°

(1 Sep 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with moderate southerly breezes, shifting to south-westerly and later to southerly. Temperature 55°-58°

(2 Sep 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with moderate westerly and south-westerly breezes, rain at noon and a fine evening. Temperature 54°-58°

(3 Sep 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with fresh west-south-westerly breezes. Temperature 54°-57°

(4 Sep 1825) A fine morning with fresh west-south-westerly breezes, the wind shifting to southerly and westerly at noon and to southerly and south-westerly at dusk. Temperature 54°-58°. Passing the Island of Juan Fernandez [Juan Fernandez islands, Chile] six or seven miles away. The island appearing well wooded and mountainous. Altering course for the port of Valparaiso

(5 Sep 1825) A rainy morning with moderate southerly and south-westerly breezes, fine and moderate later. Temperature 54°-57°

(6 Sep 1825) A fine morning with moderate south-easterly breezes. Coming in sight of the high land of Chile at 4pm and seeing a sail at 5pm. Shortening sail for Valparaiso Bay at 7pm. The captain [George Anson Byron] and the draftsman [Robert Dampier] going on shore. A lieutenant from the Cambridge bringing letters on the Blonde: 'contrary to what I expected, there was not any for me among them'. Standing on and off the harbour for the night, intending to anchor the following day. Temperature 55°-56°

(7 Sep 1825) A fine morning with moderate south-south-easterly breezes. Seeing the Andies [Andes, Chile] covered with snow. Anchoring in the afternoon. Seeing HMS Cambridge, HMS Briton, HMS Tartar and the sloop of war Mersey, with several merchant vessels 'of different nations'

Going on shore at 4pm with a letter for Joseph Sabine, to be sent in the consul general's letter bag, 'but was too late for the post, & found no letters for me at the consul's'. Returning on board at dusk 'after enjoying some refreshments, better than I had been lately accustomed to'. Temperature 54°-58°

(8 Sep 1825) A fine morning. Being disappointed to hear from George Anson Byron that he only intended to stay in Chile for a fortnight before sailing for England, a week at Valparaiso and another week at Conception [Concepcion, Chile] for water and fuel supplies: 'I observed to his lordship that his arrival in England would be in the depth of winter, & unfavourable for me to take home live plants, so that if a passage could be procured me in the month of February or January, it would be of more advantage for me to remain on the coast collecting'. Byron promising to speak to Captain Mailing [Thomas Maling, captain of HMS Cambridge], 'the senior officer on the station, who he had no doubt would do what he could for the Society'

Going on shore in the afternoon to find lodgings and to see Mr Cruckshanks [Alexander Cruckshanks, botanist and merchant in Chile] and his 'other obliging friend' Mr Cummings [Hugh Cuming, sailmaker and naturalist in Valparaiso]. 'Sold a bill for £40'. Returning on board at dusk. Temperature 54°-60°

(9 Sep 1825) A fine morning. Going on shore at noon with 'most of things collected at the Sandwich Islands', to send them home by the Tartar frigate, sailing in a week's time. Meeting Hugh Cuming in the evening, 'who informed me that a person named Anderson [James Anderson, plant collector] from Macky's Nursey in the King's Road [John Bain Mackay had nurseries on King's Road in Chelsea and in Clapton, London] had been here for the last two months collecting plants, & had only left two days ago for Rio [Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] in the Shipply [Shipley] transport, which he belonged to'. Temperature 54°-61°

(10 Sep 1825) A fine morning. 'Busily employed all day dividing my seeds, writing lists of the same etc'. Temperature 50°-60°

(11 Sep 1825) Sunday. A fine day. Going to the hills above the town early in the morning. The hills greener and more pleasant than on the previous visit. Visiting the new market place, but seeing 'nothing worth my while to take notice of', the market still 'filthy & full of hide bags & numbers of black queasy soup earthenware dishes, filled more or less with ready-cooked soup for the peons [farmworker or labourer, or a person subject to peonage, unfree labour] come in from the country, that is made from a mixture of tomatoes, garlic, onions, beans, oil & grease etc'. Temperature 53°-59°

(12 Sep 1825) A fine morning. Going on board the ship before breakfast. George Anson Byron saying that Thomas Maling had promised 'to do anything to his power to forward the interests of the Society', and inviting McRae to meet Maling with him for breakfast. Maling saying that the Mersey sloop of war was going to sail around the specified time, promising McRae passage on it or any other ship, and suggesting McRae move on board the Cambridge to go to Peru. McRae wishing to stay with Byron until he sailed for England, but 'afterwards I would willingly accept of his kind offer'

All the English marine soldiers on the man-of-war in the harbour being sent on shore with the bands of the Cambridge and the Blonde, 'to be reviewed on the hills above the fort of Valparaiso, in number about 300, who made an unusual, fine appearance to the Chilenos, compared to their own dirty, ragged rigments [regiment]'

Bringing the living plants on shore to Hugh Cuming and the specimen cases to his lodgings, 'where I kept afterwards at home working among them the rest of the day'. Temperature 54°-61°

(13 Sep 1825) A fine morning. Visiting Christopher Richard Nugent, who had returned from Santiago [Chile] the previous night. Meeting George Anson Byron at Nugent's house, both of the men speaking 'in a friendly manner respecting my intended stay in Chile or Peru, after the Blonde'. Nugent saying that 'probably Mr Caldclough [Alexander Caldcleugh, merchant and plant collector], lately come out from London, has a letter for me from Mr Sabine [Joseph Sabine], having as yet not had any since I left England'. Arranging seeds and specimens. Temperature 53°-59°

(14 Sep 1825) A fine morning. Arranging seeds all day. Temperature 50°-56°

(15 Sep 1825) A fine morning. Going on board the Blonde at 9am to take most of his collection on shore, 'which on landing at the custom house they were detained for examination tomorrow'. Visiting Christopher Richard Nugent, 'who with the other consul (Mr Rouse [Henry Rouse, vice-consul in Chile]) returned with me to the custom [house] & got my things passed without examination'

Meeting Alexander Caldcleugh in the evening. Caldcleugh saying he had met Joseph Sabine in London, and was intending to send a letter to him by the Tartar, and 'would state anything I wished to communicate in his letter', offering McRae and the Society any other assistance he could give. Temperature 53°-59°

(16 Sep 1825) A foggy morning. Writing to Joseph Sabine, intending to send the letter by the Tartar along with a box of seeds, 'chiefly duplicates from the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii]'. A play called 'Castle Spectre' [by Matthew Gregory Lewis] being performed on shore 'by gentlemen amateurs from the different English manawars [man-of-war], which was pretty well attended, for a dollar a ticket'. Temperature 53°-56°

(17 Sep 1825) A rainy night and morning. At breakfast, feeling a 'severe shock of earthquake' lasting about a minute, shaking the house 'with the cups & saucers & everything else in it, that we expected the whole would fall in upon us'

Going on board the Tartar with his box of seeds. Visiting Alexander Caldcleugh 'to have his opinion, whether it was most advisable to go on my return from Conception [Concepcion] to Peru in preference to the Anglo-Chilian [sic] Mining Association of his [Caldcleugh was commissioned to liquidate the failing Anglo-Chilean Mining Association] at Coquimbo [Chile], to which he gave his opinion in favour of the latter, on account of my short intended stay on the coast'. Temperature 56°

(18 Sep 1825) Sunday. A fine morning. The forts firing a salute at dawn in honour of the independence day of Chile: 'one man was killed, & several others hurt at the time of their firing in the garrison'. Seeing the national flags displayed in all the houses, 'which had a fine effect, as they hung over the narrow streets from the balconies'. The ships in the harbour having flags flying from the masts and rigging. Another salute being fired at noon by the Chilean man-of-war, and returned by the other men-of-war at 1pm, 'while their captains went to church, in procession to the consul-general's house. After dark the town was enlivened by fireworks in the old marketplace, which was strongly attended with all sorts of persons'. Temperature 53°-56°

(19 Sep 1825) A fine morning. Preparing to go on board the ship to sail for Conception [Concepcion] the following day. Hearing that the journey from Concepcion to Santiago, a distance of 140 leagues [420 miles], 'would be very interesting, & to me of great advantage, but would require a guide who knew the road, having in lonely places several thieves upon it'. Finding as a guide a 'stout Irishman [with] the name of Niel', who had been in Chile for almost 10 years, 'but from his fondness to drink is still poor in circumstances, yet honest & is well recommended as a fit person accompany me'

Sending two specimen cases on board. Purchasing 'several articles' for the journey. Temperature 56°-58°

(20 Sep 1825) A dull, cloudy morning. Visiting Alexander Cruckshanks for advice for the journey from Concepcion [Concepcion] to Santiago. Receiving a letter of introduction to 'a person the name of Davidson [unidentified]' in St Fernandez [?San Fernando, Chile]. Cruckshanks ('for whom I feel under obligation to for his civilities & friendly attention') promising to fill one of McRae's boxes with plants in his absence

Going on board at sunset with all his belongings, but returning on shore when the ship did not sail. 'My good friend Mr Forder, who after being on board the Blonde as a passenger for more than twelve months, has at last through the interest of Lord Byron got into the employ of Mr Caldclough [Alexander Caldcleugh] as one of his clerks with, I believe, a liberal salary'. Temperature 54°-62°

(21 Sep 1825) A rainy day. The ships Cambridge, Briton and Blonde making 'signals for sailing' at 10am. Going on board at 12pm with Niel ('my man'), 'drenching wet', but the ships unable to sail due to a northerly wind and a heavy swell. Temperature 56°-59°

(22 Sep 1825) A cloudy morning with some light rain. Sailing at 10am with the ships Cambridge, Briton and Mersey: 'tacked occasionally'. Fine weather at dusk. The Mersey sailing for the coast of Peru. Temperature 56°-60°

(23 Sep 1825) A fine morning with moderate south-easterly breezes, the winds shifting to southerly and south-easterly. Temperature 54°-56°

(24 Sep 1825) A fine morning with moderate southerly and easterly breezes. The three ships competing ('to our amusement') about 'which of the three was the best sailing vessel, when to the unexpected opinions of the persons on board the Cambridge & Briton, the Blonde (alias the ten-chest) sailed the best of the three'. Temperature 54°-56°

(25 Sep 1825) A fine morning with light easterly breezes. The three ships competing again. A church service being performed. Light and variable winds at dusk. Temperature 54°-58°

(26 Sep 1825) A fine morning with light southerly breezes, variable at noon. His lordship [George Anson Byron] going on board the Cambridge with Sir Murry Maxwell [Murray Maxwell, captain of HMS Briton] to dine with Thomas Maling, Christopher Richard Nugent and Henry Rouse. Temperature 53°-56°

(27 Sep 1825) A hazy morning with moderate southerly and south-easterly breezes, and variable winds and fine weather later. Temperature 54°-56°

(28 Sep 1825) A foggy morning with moderate southerly breezes. Hazy with variable winds at dusk. Temperature 54°-56°

(29 Sep 1825) A fine morning with light north-westerly and westerly breezes. The Cambridge and the Briton 'both nearly out of sight off Conception [Concepcion], hid by fog'. Thick fog and light rain at dusk. Temperature 53°-59°

(30 Sep 1825) A fine morning with a light south-westerly wind. Coming in sight of the Island of Qeriqina [Quiriquina Island, Chile] at the mouth of the Bay of Talquehana [Bay of Talcahuano, Bay of Concepcion, Chile] at 10am. Sailing towards the harbour to join the Cambridge and the Briton after 12pm. Seeing snowy hills and a 'clayey'-looking, barren coast, similar to Valparaiso, but with more trees. Seeing several whales and seals on entering the harbour. Anchoring at 4pm. Seeing one ship and two small brigs in the harbour. Temperature 53°-59°

(1 Oct 1825) A fine day with a light south-westerly wind. Going on shore with Niel at 10am to search for lodgings 'in a wretched canoe, hardly sea-worthy'. Finding lodgings with 'a widow woman for a real a day (sixpence)', but having to find beds and other necessary items, with no furniture in the house 'excepting her own bed, a table & a few chairs & stools'. Taking his bedding and other belongings on shore at 5pm. His landlady borrowing an old table and two chairs from her friends. Seeing a 'middling-size' comet after dark. Temperature 55°-60°

(2 Oct 1825) Sunday. A fine day. Rising at dawn after a restless night, 'annoyed with fleas & bugs. Slept for the first time of my life with a brace of pistols under my pillow'

Going with Niel and 'a native boy' west of the bay to collect plants. Returning at 4pm, 'having travelled a good part of the istmus [isthmus]'. Finding many plants, different from those in Valparaiso, including two kinds of calceolerias [Calceolaria], a Fucia [?Fuchsia], some alstromerias [Alstroemeria] and other bulbous plants. Seeing two three-foot snakes, 'which I was informed by the Spanish boy were both poisonous'. The isthmus well-wooded, and 'the Fucias particularly ornamented the moist places by the sides of the small rivulets running through the ravines or quebradas, by their rich scarlet & numerous pendulous flowers'. Seeing plenty of avilano or hazelnut [Corylus avellana], but, 'like most [of] their things, I am too early here for to get them both in flower & seed'

The 'gentlemen' from the ship visiting McRae and amusing themselves 'at my expense, for not being able to accommodate them with chairs or stools to sit upon'. Going to a small Spanish church in the town in the evening. Seeing three fiddlers playing 'several lively airs, but no dancing, all was silent on part of the persons present. This sort of church music I am informed is common in the Spanish churches, but as I never attended any of them during service time before, this was the first time I had an opportunity of seeing fiddlers playing in so sacred a place, which on my entrance at first in among the kneeling congregation, who here have no seats as in our churches, I still felt so doubtful of what I heard when standing at the door, that I ventured to step forward to the farther end, to the railing round the altar, where the priest was going through part of his ceremonies & the fiddlers within the same place, scraping away as loud as possible, at times some of my native airs (not altogether badly played), which on hearing I could not be free from smiling in the presence of a motley group, chiefly females, dressed in black as is customary with the Spaniards, having all of them their heads covered with a black mantle, which deprived me from seeing their faces, but very little now & then, when they attempted to look at me, rather dissatisfied for not kneeling like themselves'

Temperature 55°-59°

(3 Oct 1825) A 'dull, cloudy' morning'. Going in the morning to St Vincent Bay [San Vicente Bay, Chile]. Seeing the large River Biobio [Biobio River, Chile] joining the sea opposite the Bay of Talcaquana [Bay of Talcahuano, Bay of Concepcion, Chile]. The river wide, but shallow, running from Araucaman [Araucania, also known as Araucana, a region in Chile inhabited by the Moluche people, also known as Araucanos] country, dividing the 'vast territory belonging to numerous tribes of Indians of the same name, from the part already conquered to the southward by the Chileans, whom they look upon with jealousy'. The country low and flat, composed of sandy soil with some small, red clay hills extending to the city of Conception [Concepcion], before becoming high, woody mountains with 'a fine, luxuriant appearance'

Seeing no cultivation in the bay, and 'only three ranches formed of wood & reeds, having in them a few miserably poor inhabitants, who live chiefly by fishing & the breeding of a few cattle & horses'. Having trouble finding his way in the large marshes, abounding with wild ducks and other aquatic birds and covered with rushes, Ranunculus and a strongly-scented species of wild mint ('said by the inhabitants to be unhealthy to drink'). Seeing on the dry sandy areas plants including abundant Alstroemeria, several kinds of Amaryllis and other bulbous plants, and a large, flowering strawberry. Temperature 56°-61°

(4 Oct 1825) A fine morning. Leaving Talcaquana [Talcahuano, Chile] at 10am for the city of Conception [Concepcion] with four officers from the Blonde, to see Mr Clark [of the Chilean Mining Company] and 'another gentleman, for whom I had a letter of introduction'

Arriving at noon at Conception, located on a large plain, surrounded by high, red clay hills covered with low bushes on one side, and smaller hills on the other side, cultivated with corn ('chiefly white'). Seeing a large marsh near the city and several fruit trees 'without any fences or cultivation around them'. Leaving their horses at the market place by a small fonda or inn ('who could procure us with a dinner')

Meeting Clark, Dr Green [unidentified] '& others'. Telling them he intended to travel through the country to the city of Santiago, if 'such a thing could be effected without danger from thieves & Indians', and enquiring as to the cost of the endeavour. Being told there was no danger in travelling to Santiago in groups of more than four people, but 'any under that would not be sufficiently strong to defend themselves'. Estimating the expenses for purchasing horses and mules and other necessary items, including provisions and lodgings, at about $200-300

Being told he had 'no chance to fall in with the Araucaria, as it grew about forty leagues in another direction to the southward, at the foot of the Cordilleras in the Araucaria territory, which was inhabited by several tribes of Indians, who were often at war with each other, & would not themselves venture to go among them on any account, particularly at present, as the Spaniards had circulated a report that the four English manawars [man-of-war] in the Bay of Conception [Concepcion] were come to assist them for to take possession of their country, with a view to strengthen their own weak state, & alarm the Indians, who are only waiting for a favourable opportunity to disturb the Chileans'

Clark joining McRae on excursions to the town to find some Araucaria cones, 'but only succeeded in getting two from Dr Green'. Seeing Araucaria trees growing 40 feet high in two gardens, 'said to be thirty-five years old, having the lower branches leaning for some distance from the trunk, touching the ground, which gave it the finest appearance of any tree in the world'. One of them growing in a garden near the nunnery, with the trunk 'for some height disfigured with holes made by the inhabitants for to procure the resinous juice, which they use frequently for sores & other inward complaints. It is of a white colour & flows freely'

Grass growing in the streets of the 'fine' city of Conception, and the large houses and churches in ruins, including the governor's house, soldiers' barracks, a large, unfinished cathedral and the bishop's palace by the Placa, or Grand Square, all 'destroyed during the time of the revolution, with most of its inhabitants, the few survivors of which are now reduced to poverty, & their fine, fertile country of no value & left uncultivated for want of male population, who had been drained by force from their homes to serve as soldiers during the war'. Being told the ratio of women to men was about 12 to one: 'many of the former I noticed were both very fair & handsome, with fine, large, dark eyes, rosy-coloured cheeks & elegant long heads of hair, which the Spanish ladies set great value upon as being their greatest ornament'. Visiting the one remaining nunnery 'of old maidens', but not succeeding in gaining entrance

The road from Talaquana to Conception full of marshes, rendering it difficult to travel in the wet season, apart from a few miles from the city, where it was 'pleasantly covered' with low trees and shrubs, several Alstroemeria and other bulbous-rooted plants and different kinds of fruit trees 'growing spontaneously', including quince and cherry. Otherwise the country resembling England 'from its luxuriance, although but little cultivated'

Returning home in the evening from the city, three leagues [nine miles] from the port. Finding Niel ('my man') drunk in bed, having 'done nothing for me since I left in the morning, but employed himself with three of the sailors' wives from the Blonde going about the town as their interpreter to purchase things for them'. Temperature 56°-62°

(5 Oct 1825) A fine morning. Collecting plants on the road to Conception [Concepcion] in the morning. Finding alstroemerias, amaryllises and two orchids, one with white flowers and the other with yellow flowers, but not seeing many shrubby plants. Some of the clay hills 'cultivated, or rather planted with' grape vines without stakes or trellises, but cut short and the previous season's young shoots pruned, a small circle around each plant kept weeded, and grass growing freely on the rest of the ground, 'which is generally pastured, & have no appearance of vineyards at a short distance', resembling green pastured hills

Seeing several partridges. Getting his feet wet crossing marshes. Seeing in the marshes flocks of wild ducks and swarms of very large 'moschetos [mosquitoes]', 'who annoyed me much with their impleasant [unpleasant] stinging'. Heavy rain at noon making the rest of the day uncomfortable and forcing McRae to return sooner than he wished, 'drenching wet & somewhat hungry, but my landlady uses so much garlic & oil & [is] otherwise dirty in her cookery, [and] often disappoints me from enjoying what she has ready for me'. Temperature 56°-62°

[For the next part of the journal bound in the same volume, 6 Oct 1825-24 Jan 1826 (pages 611-702), see RHS/Col/6/1/7]

Extent

232 pages

Is part of

RHS archive: plant collector papers

Repository

Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library

Copyright

Royal Horticultural Society

Credit Line

RHS Lindley Collections

Usage terms

Non-commercial use with attribution permitted (CC BY-NC 4.0)