Pages 197-375 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 2
Information
Title - Pages 197-375 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 2
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/6/1/5
Date - 27 Feb-28 May 1825
Scope & content - Pages 197-375, entitled 'Journal part second': Narrative of James McRae's journey, describing his stay in Valparaiso, and the voyage on HMS Blonde from Chile to Hawaii via Peru and the Galapagos Islands. The journal continues mid-sentence from part 1 [see RHS/Col/6/1/4]
This item is bound in the volume comprising journal and papers of James McRae. This is the second of five parts of McRae's journal. All five were subsequently bound together in the same volume. For a description of the first part, 8 Sep 1824-27 Feb 1825, see RHS/Col/6/1/4. For descriptions of the subsequent parts, 28 May 1825-15 Mar 1826, see RHS/Col/6/1/6-8
Written on rectos only in McRae's hand
(27 Feb 1825, continued) Seeing 'large & fine' tomatoes and beetroots. The fruits and vegetables mainly brought to the market from the countryside, packed in hide trunks carried by mules. The fruits 'looked exceeding fine & tempting after coming immediately round cold Cape Horne [Cape Horn, Chile], which may probably give origin to this place being named the Vale of Paradise', but many were flavourless. The market place in the harbour small, surrounded by 'low and shabby' houses. The meat for sale cut in small pieces and laid out on 'filthy' hides on the ground, and fish ('of no great variety') sold from baskets, at 'reasonable' prices. Old women selling 'country-made shoes of inferior tanned leather'
Going to the hills south of the town afterwards. Seeing three species of Linum ('a yellow, white & blue'), several lichens and other new plants. Returning to the inn at 4pm and spending the evening with 'a party of young gentlemen of the Blonde'. Temperature 60°-64°
(28 Feb 1825) A fine day. Going to the only cooper in town before breakfast to buy a small keg for the fruits purchased the previous day. Taking the keg to 'one of the many common spirit shops' to fill it with 'aguardent [aguardiente, distilled spirits] distilled in the country, which I had to pay the high price of two dollars per gallon for'
Going back to the hills. Seeing a species of Ribes ('in patches much shaded'), a dark, flowering Aesclipias [Asclepias] ('entwined among the brushwood') and a deep scarlet Amaryllis ('at least ten inches under ground in a hard, gravelly soil'). Returning to the Castle Inn at dusk for dinner. Enjoying the peace and quiet at the inn after the ship, despite a flea infestation. Hearing reports of England having acknowledged the independence of South America from Spanish rule [the majority of South American countries declared independence from Spanish rule during the late 18th and early 19th centuries]. Temperature 62°-67°
(1 Mar 1825) A fine day. Going on board the ship in the morning to arrange and press plants. Returning on shore at 1pm after being told the ship would not sail for several days. Going to see Mr Cummings' [Hugh Cuming, sailmaker and conchologist in Valparaiso] collection of shells ('picked up chiefly from whale ships'). Finding him 'civil & obliging, ready to communicate any information I wanted'. Being told that someone 'from Colvill's in the King's Road [Colville's nursery in Chelsea, London]' had lately been in Valparaiso [Chile] collecting plants, but had recently left for Lima [Peru]. Being promised seeds of the 'Chilean pine [monkey puzzle tree]' for the Society
Returning on board the ship at dusk to 'a lumbered steerage, with so many bread bags, that no room was scarcely left to hang our hammocks over them at night'. Temperature 61°-69°. Feeling an earthquake 10pm, 'but much more severe on shore'
(2 Mar 1825) A fine day. Going on shore at 10am to collect bulbs and seeds in the hills above the town. Returning to the inn at dusk for dinner and staying for the night due to discomfort on board the ship 'in the present state the steerage was in'. Temperature 61°-69°
(3 Mar 1825) A fine day. Going on board the ship after breakfast, having been told she was about to sail. Arranging seeds. Several salutes fired from the ships of war in the harbour to honour the governor. Temperature 62°-70°
(4 Mar 1825) A fine day. Finishing packing up the seeds to be sent to England. Writing to Joseph Sabine. Going on shore at 9pm to leave the letter and the seeds with Mr Nugent [Christopher Richard Nugent, consul in Chile] to be forwarded to England later. Waiting for an hour, as Nugent was busy with other visitors, but being welcomed 'in the most friendly manner possible' despite the late hour, 'as he felt pleasure forwarding the interests of those connected with science'. Nugent promising to send the seeds and the letter to Mr Canning [George Canning, British foreign secretary], despite Lord Byron's [George Anson Byron, captain of HMS Blonde] request that all packages be sent via Mr Croker [John Wilson Croker, secretary of the Admiralty]: 'he flattered himself that he would soon prevail on his lordship [Byron] to alter the direction'. Nugent asking McRae to return the following morning to receive letters of introduction for Lima
Staying at the inn overnight. Temperature 61°-68°
(5 Mar 1825) A fine day. Christopher Richard Nugent saying that George Anson Byron 'would not permit him to alter either of my parcel's direction [other than] to Mr Croker [John Wilson Croker]', and promising to forward them by a merchant ship to England. Nugent giving McRae two letters of introduction for Lima, one to Colonel O'Leary, 'a do-camp [aide-de-camp] to General Boliver [Daniel Florence O'Leary, also known as Donall Finin O Laoghaire, military general in South America and aide-de-camp to Simon Bolivar, Venezuelan military and political leader]', the other letter from Mr Price [Richard Price, merchant in Chile] ('of the first respectability in Valparaiso') to 'the first mercantile house (Messrs Naylor's & Co [Naylor's, Kendall & Co, merchants in Lima])'
Returning on board the ship at noon, 'not sorry of having to quit Valparaiso & its barren hills, where I enjoyed but little pleasure in collecting specimens of the dry, scraggy plants, which surround it'. Weighing anchor at 1pm and 'stood off & on', a signal gun being fired at 4pm for those on shore to board the ship. Taking the cutter in tow at 6pm. Fresh breezes and cloudy at dusk. Temperature 61°-69°
(6 Mar 1825) [This entry was added on the blank verso page, possibly having been omitted during copying] A fine morning with fresh southerly and south-westerly breezes. The sails being shortened and provisions sent on board the cutter. Temperature 62°-65°
(7 Mar 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with fresh south-easterly breezes. The cutter in tow 'sails badly', slowing down the journey. George Anson Byron falling ill and confined to his cabin. Watering the plants in the boxes: 'they still remain without recovering, & are getting generally much worse, especially the tropical plants'. Temperature 63°-64°
(8 Mar 1825) Moderate breezes in the morning, the weather cloudy but fine, with southerly and south-easterly winds at dusk. Temperature 64°-66°. McRae feeling unwell so remaining in his hammock: 'the surgeon [William Davis, surgeon on HMS Blonde] tells me my disorder is bilious, attended with cold'. 'His lordship [George Anson Byron]' still ill in his cabin
(9 Mar 1825) A fine day with moderate southerly and south-easterly winds. Temperature 66°-69°
(10 Mar 1825) A fine day with moderate southerly and south-easterly winds. Temperature 68°-72°
(11 Mar 1825) A fine, cloudy day with moderate south-easterly breezes. McRae still confined to his hammock, and 'considered so ill by the surgeon [William Davis], that he wanted to draw blood from me, which I objected, as I had never before been bled, & did not in my own opinion think my present case required it'. Temperature 71°-73°
(12 Mar 1825) A fine, cloudy day with a moderate south-easterly wind. Feeling much better. The captain [George Anson Byron] inviting him to 'come & sit in his cabin' to enjoy the air, fresher than below the deck: 'I feel pleasure in observing that both the captain & the wardroom officers requested me during my illness not to want for anything I could fancy, which they had got. His lordship particularly paid me more attention than I could expect'. The captain feeling better and able to sit up
Expecting to see the Peruvian coast the following day. Temperature 72°-74°
(13 Mar 1825) A fine, cloudy day with a moderate wind. Hearing reports at dusk of cannon fire at Callao [Lima, Peru] [Peru was declared independent from Spanish rule in 1821, but battles continued between the republicans and the Spanish royalists]'. Shortening sails for the night. Temperature 71°-74°
(14 Mar 1825) A hazy morning. Sailing towards the coast of Peru. Passing the island of Lorenzo [San Lorenzo Island, Peru]. Seeing ships in Cherillo Bay [Chorrillos, Peru] and the Castle of Callao [Peru] with the Spanish flag flying. Firing commencing at 8am between the 'hostile parties'. Anchoring at 10am in Cherillo Bay, about 10 miles south of Callao. Seeing in the harbour HMS Cambridge ('68 gun, Captain Maling [Thomas Maling, captain of HMS Cambridge] commander'), Chilean frigate Higgins, American sloop of war Peacock and several merchant ships, most of them English
Going on shore at 1pm with the surgeon [William Davis] and Mr A. Bloxam [Andrew Bloxam, naturalist on HMS Blonde, brother of the ship's chaplain Rowland Bloxam], with permission to stay for two hours. Seeing several large brass cannons, brought from Valparaiso 'for the use of the patriots'
Visiting a sparsely inhabited small village on top of a steep, sandy cliff, 'at present a considerable place of trade, from its being the only part where communication can be carried with the shipping'. Seeing mules being loaded with two flour barrels each. The houses in the village low and flat, built with mud and white-washed with lime, 'some with Spanish characters in front, painted red with figures as large as life', and most with varrandas [veranda], 'where often may be seen a hammock with someone in it smoking segars [cigar]'. Seeing numerous carrion vultures in the streets: 'like so many tame turkeys, & will suffer persons to approach them very close'
Walking along the fields surrounding the village, divided into lots by low mud walls. The main cultivated plant Arundo donax and another species of reed, 'for no other purpose, as we supposed, than to be used for wattles to support the mud, which their houses are made of, & the top leaves as food for cattle'. The soil, a white loamy sand, 'apparently capable of producing any kind of crops more useful to the country than the present one now upon it, which soon impoverishes the best of land'. The mountains further inland appearing from a distance to be sandy with no vegetation, reminding McRae of accounts of 'the sandy deserts of Africa'. Hoping to be able to give a better description of Lima on the return journey. Entering the fields through broken gaps in the mud walls, 'now neglected to be repaired, or taken notice of, like the fields which they surround, left uncultivated from a long unsettled state of warfare'
Collecting plants, including two species of Sida, two species of Cestrum, Passiflora, Lantana and Rudbeckia [here the journal includes a list of six more plants]. Returning to the village for a rest. Seeing in a fruiterer's shop some good apples, melons, pumpkins and 'a round, white kind of a potato, which promised to be a good sort by its appearance'. Being given a glass of 'good water, although we saw no signs where any could be got'. Seeing 'some of the fair sex riding on horse-back stridelegs [astride], without stirrups, shoes or stockings. Their complexion was fair, & far from being uninteresting'
Returning on board at 3pm. Temperature 73°-75°
(15 Mar 1825) A hazy morning with light winds. 'At daylight the hostile parties commenced the attack on each other'. Receiving permission at 10am to board one of the ship's boats, 'said to go on shore after putting the purser on board the Cambridge', but being ordered to return on board immediately. Weighing anchor at 4.30pm and being joined by HMS Cambridge and the cutter at 5.30pm. Several of the men being punished 'for various offences'. Still hearing firing at Callao at dusk. Temperature 69°-73°
(16 Mar 1825) A fine morning with moderate winds. Passing San Lorenzo Island at 7am and approaching the Castle of Callao at noon. The ship waiting off the coast, 'during which time the batteries kept constantly firing on the patriots, & could easily see at times the parties skirmishing among the bushes not far from the outer fort, & a vast number of the poor unfortunate inhabitants standing in crowds opposite the front of the houses, covered by the fort, on the sea beach, anxiously looking at our ships, now coming in to anchor'. Two Peruvian gun boats firing at the town at 3pm, dispersing the crows and continuing firing until dusk, despite shots from the castle and royalist gun boats
Anchoring at 7pm with the cutter by HMS Cambridge near Callao, 'which at present appears in a wretched state', many of the houses destroyed, with only the bare mud and bamboo walls standing. Seeing the city of Lima, 'easily distinguished from its numerous high stepels [?steeples], not far distant from unhappy Callao'. The countryside around the town level, 'beautifully interspersed with low growing trees & shrubs'. Hoping the warfare would be over by the time of their return, to allow him 'the pleasure of examining the plants of this beautiful country'. Temperature 69°-73°
(17 Mar 1825) A fine, but hazy morning. Captain Maling [Thomas Maling] 'with his lady' boarding the Blonde for breakfast at 8am. Hearing the sounds of 'French horns & drums' from the shore. The governor of Callao sending an aide-de-camp on a boat with a letter to Maling: 'the contents was to me unknown. The bearer of this letter was a genteel, little, spirited fellow, who had plenty to say for himself, & remained for some time on board with both captains'
Sailing at 12pm. The forts commencing firing at 1pm 'on the patriots, who were seen within shot of the batteries'. Standing out to sea at 3.30pm. Passing San Lorenzo Island at 5pm. George Anson Byron returning on board from the Cambridge. Sailing towards the Gallapagos [Galapagos Islands, Ecuador]. Fine weather at dusk with a moderate south-easterly wind. Temperature 70°-73°
(18 Mar 1825) A fine morning with a light south-easterly wind. Towing the cutter, but letting it go at 9am, the winds blowing it too close to the ship's stern. Taking the cutter back in tow at 8pm and sailing with a south-easterly shore wind. Temperature 70°-74°
(19 Mar 1825) A fine morning with light south-easterly and southerly winds. At 10am 'some experiments was tried with the great guns, which were fired with a double charge of powder & shot'. Fine, cloudy weather at dusk, and light rain in the evening. Temperature 74°-76°
(20 Mar 1825) A fine morning with moderate southerly and south-easterly breezes and a light rain shower in the evening. Towing the cutter. A church service performed. Temperature 77°-80°
(21 Mar 1825) A fine day with light, variable winds. At 10am 'exercised the men at the great guns & small arms, fired several rounds of blank & one of shot, the marines with their small arms firing at a target tile, shot away from the main yard'. Light winds and cloudy in the evening. The cutter in tow. Temperature 79°-80°
(22 Mar 1825) A fine day with light southerly and south-easterly winds. 'The men employed as yesterday'. Moderate breezes and cloudy in the evening. The cutter in tow. Temperature 78°-80°
(23 Mar 1825) A wet morning with variable winds, later fine and almost becalmed. Sailing at 10am with a light south-easterly breeze. The cutter in tow. Temperature 77°-79.5°
(24 Mar 1825) A cloudy morning with light rain showers and moderate easterly and south-easterly winds. Sailing 'by setting studding sails on both sides'. The sailors 'mending & making their clothes etc'. Light winds and cloudy in the evening. The cutter in tow. Temperature 78°-80°
(25 Mar 1825) A fine morning with moderate south-easterly breezes. The cutter 'cast off' at dawn. Approaching the Islands of Gallapagos [Galapagos Islands]. Shortening sail at 7am and taking the master of the cutter on board as a pilot, 'being well acquainted with the islands'. Approaching the 'well-wooded' Gardener's Island [Gardner Island, Galapagos Islands] at 3.30pm to 'go wooding & to catch a land turtle', but not finding a safe landing place. Seeing several 'remarkable detached rocks' on the south-east end of the island, resembling sailing ships, the largest one 'formed by nature like a fortified castle, having underneath an arch apparently twenty yards wide'. The island about 1/4 mile long and round. Seeing several seals along the shore. Firing the 'launch carronade with shot, which fell close in shore, the distance being about one mile & three quarters'. Seeing the Island of Albemarle [Isabela Island, Galapagos Islands] at 7pm. Light winds and cloudy in the evening, the cutter in sight astern. Temperature 79°-80°
The plants on board losing their leaves, having been 'forced into leaf' by the sudden change in temperature between Valparaiso and Callao. The apples, pears and peaches particularly affected by the climate and 'many other injuries met with not natural to their elements on shore. This can at a further time be more explained if required'
(26 Mar 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with a light south-easterly wind. Reaching the southern end of Albemarle Island [Isabela Island] at dawn, accompanied by the cutter. Seeing several small 'crater hillocks' near the shore, which appeared to have been recently burning: 'all persons on board who could command a spy-glass [hand-held telescope], or borrow one, was at this time eagerly directed in their attention towards the shore, which had the most dreary, unhospitable appearance I ever saw'. The island gently rising 'to a considerable height', with a narrow ridge on the top, the shore seemingly composed of 'heaps of cinders', with some fine mangrove bushes and short white grass and lichen growing in places, and patches of black lava forming 'a curious contrast to the unaccustomed eye of a stranger seeing it for the first time'. Reaching the south-east coast at 11am. The current running at a rate of six miles an hour. Sailing with a breeze at noon. A light rain shower at 1pm
Approaching the Island of Narbourg [Fernandina Island, also known as Narborough Island, Galapagos Islands] in the evening, 'enveloped in clouds'. The winds calming, 'tried soundings with 160 fathoms of line, & found no bottom, being within a mile of the shore'. After dark at 7pm 'all eyes on board were attracted by the sudden appearance of a burning volcano of an immense size, & very brilliant on the brow of a mountain', bursting and sparking above the blaze: 'the size of this new burning phenomenon might be about half a mile in circumference'. The captain not wanting to sail far during the night from the place he intended to anchor the ship, giving everyone on board an opportunity to watch the fire until late in the night, illuminating the ocean: 'some were inquisitive to know from others what could occasion such a fire, others remarking that those who had to keep so large a fire burning must be busily employed, while some talked of Mount Etna [Italy], the Napping Baker [?Mount Baker, Washington, United States of America] & Mount Vesuvius [Italy]. Seeing another, smaller eruption near the shore
Sailing with the cutter. Temperature 78°-80°
(27 Mar 1825) Calm and hazy at dawn. The fire in the crater extinguished, with thick smoke rising from the craters, resembling a 'string of lime kilns'. Sailing with a light north-westerly breeze. Approaching the small volcano at 3pm and seeing it blazing up at intervals, its surroundings covered with liquid lava running towards the sea and smoke rising from it. Seeing the low land covered with black lava and barren hills with only a few low, scattered shrubs 'gave us but a sorrowful prospect of being able long to remain here'. Anchoring at 7am in Bank's Cove [Tagus Cove, Isabela Island] in 25 fathoms of water with 'the small chain cable, within cables' length of the shore', surrounded by high, rocky cliffs, rising several hundred feet above the top masts of the ship. Calm and cloudy in the evening. Losing sight of the cutter and lowering the boats to tow her in, 'should she come in sight during the night'
Watching the 'terrific motions' of the volcano and listening to the screeches of the sea birds and the 'harsh croaking kept up without interruption by the grasshoppers'. Going to sleep at 12am in his hammock, remembering 'for the first time the distance I was now got from happy England, whom I had left little more than six months ago', being now 'upon the remains of volcano eruptions, where its inhospitable shores denies sustenance for a human being to live but a short time'. Temperature 77°-81°
(28 Mar 1825) A fine morning. Most of the boats going on shore at 4am to catch sea turtles or to find wood and water, but finding the water supply too 'small & brackish & insufficient' for the daily consumption on board. The 'Sandwich people got the jolly boat to go fishing'. McRae going on shore at 10am, 'but not without reluctantly being obliged to go to his lordship [George Anson Byron] for permission'
Going on shore with the assistant surveyor. Passing two small whalers' huts in a ravine. Seeing plants, including Cordia ('a fine, yellow species'), Croton with yellow flowers ('handsome'), two species of Euphorbia ('of a slender, shrubby habit & from one to three feet in height. These were the most plentiful, & afterwards to be met with in all situations'), a tree Acacia and Rhus ('which possesses a flow of juice of astringent nature, was the only two plants which attained the form of a tree') and cotton ('indigenous, was plentiful, but being only in flower & newly forming buds, I had no opportunity of judging its quality'). Short, dry grass commonly growing 'where vegetation once commences'. Being surprised by the fresh look of the plants, despite growing out of lava with only sand to support their roots. McRae's companion leaving him in order to shoot birds, 'my mode of travelling being too slow for him'. Reaching the top of the ridge, and examining 'three large heaps of lava, forced out of the earth to the height of 15 to 20 feet'. Walking carefully, each step sounding hollow underneath. Finding a small Polypodium with withered leaves, and several other new plants, including several belonging to the Syngenesia class
The heat becoming 'intolerable' after midday. Feeling thirsty, but not having any water with them, 'only a little brandy, which we took a little mouthful of & found great relief'. Proceeding along the ridge, with an extensive view ('the most dreary & barren I ever beheld') of a large, black lava plain with no plants apart from a species of Cactus. Being told the land turtles fed upon these, but not seeing any. The ridge on the other side covered with grass and low, 'scraggy' shrubs. Seeing plenty of large 'guainas [iguana]' with a 'disgusting appearance' and bringing a brown, black-spotted one on board the ship, weighing 10lbs. Seeing other, smaller lizards, some with red-spotted heads, and a black species living by the sea, 'more disgusting than the other land species'. Seeing many different kinds of small birds. One of the birds being a small pigeon, 'exceedingly tame, [so] that the boy with me often amused himself taking them without the least attempt to escape, for when a stone or stick was thrown at them, it was seldom they flew away, but remained until struck or killed'. Seeing plenty of beautiful, large grasshoppers 'in [a] variety of colours'. Returning to the huts at 5pm to signal for the boat. Meeting with his former companion, who had returned earlier, 'fatigued from heat & thirst, & calling out to me, for god sake to let him have some brandy if I had any regard for him'. A heavy rain shower providing an opportunity for McRae to fill his tin box for specimens with water
Returning on board after dusk. Hearing that the 'Sandwich people' had left the ship to stay at the huts on shore until sailing. One of the boats returning with 46 turtles. With no water available, rumours circulating that they would sail northwards for Abington Island [Pinta Island, Galapagos Islands] the following morning, where there were plenty of land turtles and a chance of finding fresh water. The cutter anchoring by the ship
(29 Mar 1825) A fine morning. Several boats going to Narbourgh Island [Fernandina Island] at dawn to collect wood. The captain going with three or four officers 'to the leeward part of Albemarle [Isabela Island]'. Going on shore at noon with Mr Talbot [Henry John Chetwynd Talbot, lieutenant on HMS Blonde] and the captain of the cutter, who were going to find land turtles. Approaching the huts of the 'Sandwich people', and seeing Governor Poki [Boki, also known as Kama'ule'ule, high chief of the kingdom of Hawai'i, royal governor of the island of O'ahu], 'sitting beside his wife with only his shirt on, who appeared not in the least disconcerted to be found in this half-naked state', with others bathing 'nearly within sight' and the servants cooking fish ('untouched, as they had been taken out of the sea'). Seeing healthy-looking but slender watermelons and muskmelons near the huts, but thinking they were not strong enough to become established on the island due to the lack of soil, shade and moisture
Continuing for about two miles, but not seeing any turtles or new plants. Seeing plenty of cotton and, on the outskirts of the lava field, withered trees and shrubs without any bark, 'quite bleached white from, no doubt, their long exposure to the weather'. A warm afternoon. With turtles unlikely to reside further inland, deciding to return to the huts to wait for a boat. Meeting three of the ship's officers writing 'on a board to be left in the huts, our ship's destination & where from, with the names of the principal officers on board etc [a post box used for communication by whalers and other passing ships]'. Returning on board the ship at dusk. The 'Sandwich people' and all the boats returning on board and preparations being made for sailing the following morning
(30 Mar 1825) A fine morning with light northerly and north-westerly winds at dawn. Weighing anchor and the boats towing the ship out of Bank's Cove [Tagus Cove, Isabela Island]. Without having found fresh water, the allowance for each person on board reduced to six pints of water plus wine per day. Calm at 8am, the current taking the ship 'a considerable way' towards the south-east. The men washing the decks, 'which smelled intolerably from the quantities of fish lately caught by the sailors, & also from so many turtles now on board'. The first lieutenant [Thomas Ball, first lieutenant on HMS Blonde] going on board a ship anchored in Bankses Bay [Banks Bay, Isabela Island], an American whaler from New York [United States of America]. The ship had been sailing for seven months with 600 barrels of oil, with the intention, if there was no fresh water available, to follow HMS Blonde to the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii, United States of America]. Seeing the cutter and sailing from Albemarle [Isabela Island]. Remaining in sight of the volcano on Narbourgh Island [Fernandina Island] all night
(31 Mar 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with light winds. Waiting for the cutter by the north-west end of Albemarle [Isabela Island]. Sailing close to a 'perpendicular rock', about 30 miles from the island, called Rock Dunder by the sailors. A boat being sent to fish and returning shortly with plenty of rock cod. Seeing several sharks around the ship. Seeing the cutter at 5pm by the island. Sailing with strong westerly and south-westerly winds towards Abington Island [Pinta Island] at 6pm. Temperature 77°-81°
(1 Apr 1825) A fine morning with light easterly and south-easterly winds. Coming in sight of Abington Island [Pinta Island] at dawn, about 30 miles away. Two boats sent on shore for turtles: 'Mr A. Bloxam [Andrew Bloxam] & myself accepted the opportunity, but owing to the strong current running at the time we had no hopes of landing'. His lordship [George Anson Byron] sending for McRae to inform him that he intended to leave the Gallapagos [Galapagos Islands], the lack of water having become a 'serious consideration', with a long journey ahead to the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii], and wishing McRae better success [with collecting] on the return journey
Sailing towards the cutter and sending five weeks' worth of provisions on board. Sailing with the cutter in tow at 8am with a moderate north-easterly breeze. Heavy rain at 9am, 'which was eagerly saved by the men for washing clothes'. Temperature 80°-82° [annotated in different ink but in the same hand as the main text: 'This being Good Friday, all the Sandwich Island natives (7) on board was baptized']
(2 Apr 1825) A wet morning light south-westerly wind. Still in sight of the volcano on Narbourgh Island [Fernandina Island]. Seeing Wenmans Island [Wolf Island, Galapagos Islands] ahead at dawn and Culpeper Island [Darwin Island, Galapagos Islands] at 10am, about 30 miles away. Passing Wenmans Island at 8pm about 5 miles away. Light winds and cloudy. The cutter in tow. Temperature 70°-81°. The plants 'looking still worse every day'
(3 Apr 1825) A fine morning with a light south-westerly wind and rain showers. A church service performed, and, it being Easter Sunday, sacrament given 'to those on board who thought themselves calculated for to receive it. Among the number who had sacrament was the Governor Poki [Boki], who upon getting the wine cup in his hand would have finished its contents had not the clergyman taken it from him'. The cutter in tow. Temperature 81°-82.5°
(4 Apr 1825) A fine morning with light southerly and south-westerly winds. A turtle being sent on board the cutter, having 'lashed on a grating drifted from the ship's stern'. The wind shifting southwards, with heavy rain in the evening. Temperature 81.5°-84°
(5 Apr 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with moderate southerly and south-westerly breezes and lightning in the evening. The cutter in tow. Temperature 80°-83°
(6 Apr 1825) A fine morning with a moderate south-easterly wind and heavy rain, and lightning after dusk. Temperature 79°-82°
(7 Apr 1825) Hazy, with moderate south-westerly winds, heavy rain in the forenoon and lightning in the evening. Temperature 81.5°-83.5°
(8 Apr 1825) A hazy morning with a light south-easterly wind and heavy rain, moderate and cloudy later in the morning and the winds shifting to southerly and south-easterly. The wind 'freshened so much that the cutter could scarcely stand towing without shortening sail'. Lightning in the evening. The cutter in tow. Temperature 80°-81°
(9 Apr 1825) A hazy morning with a moderate westerly wind. Taking the cutter in tow at dawn, 'having slipped her hawser [cable or rope used for mooring or towing] during the night in heavy squall'. Torrential rain: 'all hands were employed saving the rain water, & were fortunate enough to get sufficient to last the ship's company for four days'. A calm and cloudy afternoon, with lightning after dusk. Temperature 79°-80°
(10 Apr 1825) A fine morning with light winds and calm at noon. A boat sent with wood and coals to the cutter, with orders 'to make the best of her way for the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii], being tired of towing her longer on the passage'. Parting company with the cutter at 5pm. Lightning after dark. Temperature 80°-83°
(11 Apr 1825) A fine morning with light, variable winds. The cutter still in sight, steering towards the south-west. The officers placing bets on whether the cutter or the Blonde would reach their destination first. Squally and heavy rain in the afternoon, moderate and cloudy with lightning at dusk. Temperature 81°-83°
(12 Apr 1825) Cloudy, with a moderate northerly wind and some squalls and heavy rain. Temperature 79.5°-82°
(13 Apr 1825) A fine morning with a moderate northerly wind, calm and heavy rain at noon, and fresh north-westerly breezes later. Temperature 79.5°-81°
(14 Apr 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with fresh north-westerly breezes. Several birds flying over the ship, indicating land nearby. Moderate and cloudy in the evening. Temperature 79°-80°
(15 Apr 1825) A fine day with moderate north-westerly breezes. Seeing more birds, 'several of which were taken by the sailors while sitting to rest on the ship's rigging'. Temperature 80°-80.5°
(16 Apr 1825) A fine day with fresh northerly and north-easterly breezes, shifting to north-easterly in the evening. Temperature 78°-80.5°
(17 Apr 1825) A fine day with fresh north-easterly breezes. Temperature 79°-79.5°
(18 Apr 1825) A cloudy morning with fresh north-easterly breezes. One of the sailors falling 'from the forecastle into the ship's waist' at 3.30am, fracturing his skull 'so much that fears of his recovery at present is doubtful'. Several men being punished for 'drunkenness & disobedience of orders'. Moderate and cloudy at noon and light east-north-easterly winds at dusk. Temperature 76°-79°
(19 Apr 1825) A cloudy morning with light rain and a moderate northerly wind, heavy rain during the night, the wind changing to north-easterly at noon, and a fine evening with fresh breezes. Temperature 76°-77.5°
(20 Apr 1825) A fine morning with a moderate northerly wind. A large black porpoise harpooned in the afternoon, and 'strictly examined by the surgeon [William Davis] & Mr A. Bloxam [Andrew Bloxam]'. Fine weather with fresh breezes in the evening. Temperature 74°-76°
(21 Apr 1825) A fine, cloudy day with fresh northerly breezes. Temperature 74°-75°
(22 Apr 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with fresh northerly and north-easterly breezes, the winds shifting to north-easterly at noon. Temperature 72°-74°
(23 Apr 1825) A fine day with fresh north-easterly breezes. 'According the ship's reckoning, today at noon we was only 1,270 miles from Owhyee [Hawai'i Island, Hawaii]'. Temperature 72°-74°
(24 Apr 1825) A fine morning with moderate easterly breezes, and squally and rainy from 5pm. Temperature 72°-73°
(25 Apr 1825) A fine morning with light easterly and north-easterly winds, light rain at noon and light variable winds and cloudy in the evening. Temperature 71°-74.5°
(26 Apr 1825) A fine morning with light easterly and southerly winds, light rain in the afternoon and almost calm. 'Light airs' and fine weather in the evening. Temperature 72°-76.5°
(27 Apr 1825) Hazy, with 'light airs' from north-west and light rain showers, with fine weather and moderate winds later. Temperature 72°-74°
(28 Apr 1825) A fine morning with light northerly and north-easterly winds, the winds shifting to north-easterly in the evening. Temperature 73.5°-76°
(29 Apr 1825) A fine day with moderate north-easterly breezes. Temperature 74°-76°
(30 Apr 1825) A fine morning with moderate easterly and north-easterly breezes, the winds shifting to easterly and south-easterly later. Temperature 73°-75°
(1 May 1825) A fine morning with moderate easterly and south-easterly breezes. A church service performed. Moderate and fine in the evening. Temperature 74°-76.5°
(2 May 1825) A fine morning with moderate easterly and southerly winds. The cook's mate being punished with 'three dozen lashes for beating the captain's steward'. Moderate breezes and cloudy in the evening. Temperature 73.5°-75.5°
(3 May 1825) A fine morning with a moderate easterly wind. Reaching the south-east point of Owhyee [Hawai'i Island] at 7am and approaching land by the afternoon, 'which afforded us a pleasant contrast compared with the Gallapagos [Galapagos Islands] lately left'. Seeing beautiful green verdure, trees and coconut trees with 'leaning bushy tops', the country rising gently without apparent deep ravines. Reaching Heddo Bay [Hilo Bay, Hawai'i Island] at 2pm and lowering two of the ship's boats, one for the surveyor [Charles Robert Malden, surveyor on HMS Blonde] and his assistant, and the other for the master of the ship, to take soundings and to examine the anchorage 'to ascertain whether we could return here to refit the vessel after depositing the bodies of the king [Liholiho, also known as Kamehameha II and Kalaninui kua Liholiho i ke kapu 'Iolani and Kalani Kalei'aimoku o Kaiwikapu o La'amea i Kauikawekiu Ahilapalapa Keali'i Kauinamoku o Kahekili Kalaninui i Mamao 'Iolani i Ka Liholiho, king of the kingdom of Hawai'i] & queen [Kamamalu, also known as Kamehamalu, Kamehamehamalu and Kamamalu Kalani-Kua'ana-o-Kamehamalu-Kekuaiwa-o-kalani-Keali'i-Ho'opili-a-Walu, queen consort of the kingdom of Hawai'i] at the seat of government at Woahoo [O'ahu, Hawaii]'
Two 'ragged white men' coming on board the ship to say the ship was standing on or near a reef reaching across the mouth of the bay: 'all was instantly bustle & noise to put the ship about to stand out to sea farther off from the land'. The men reporting that they had received news over a month ago from an English whaler from London about the death of the king and queen, '& also that the natives of the island of Attoi [Kaua'i, also known as Attooi and Attoi, Hawaii] to leeward had rebelled two months since against the regent, in consequence of the chief of that island [Kaumuali'i, ruler of the island of Kaua'i] having died since the king went to England, & the arrival from America some months past of the son & heir to the deceased chief [George Kaumuali'i, also known as Humehume, George Prince, Tamoree and Kumoree, son of Kaumuali'i], who claimed the rights of his father, which before he was defeated by the superior force of the regent, who commanded in person, occasioned the loss of the lives of upwards of 2,000 natives besides two Europeans, & yet we was assured this same person, after being taken, is at present suffered to go at large in town of Hanarura at Woahoo [Honolulu, O'ahu] [the Island of Kaua'i had been made into a vassal state of the kingdom of Hawai'i in 1810. After the death of the ruler Kaumuali'i in May 1824, who had been in exile in Honolulu, his son Humehume attempted to gain control of the island, but was defeated in a battle, in which an estimated 130 Kauains and one Hawaiian died. Humehume was exiled to Honolulu, where he died from influenza in 1826]'
Several 'natives' paddling with their canoes to visit the ship, bringing provisions, including sugar cane ('generally of the purple & striped kind, & of a large size'), tarro ('a species of Arum') [taro, Colocasia esculenta], fish and hogs. The men dressed in 'maro [malo, loincloth], a piece of narrow, dyed cloth of their own manufacture, 8 or 10 inches broad & about 3 yards long, which they pass between the legs & tie round the waist. The dress of the women consisted generally of a larger piece of cloth of similar manufacture, tied carelessly round the waist, forming a short petticoat reaching half-way down the thigh. This was the common dress of all who came off to the ship, excepting the head chief & one of his wives, who is here commonly honoured with the title of governor. Both were of more than ordinary size from overgrown corpulence. The governor's dress consisted of a dirty cotton shirt, a pair of blue China nankin [nankeen, Chinese cotton] trousers, & an old straw hat. That of his wife [consisted of] the common petticoat used by the other females, with the addition of having extra to them a piece of native-made cloth tied round her neck, hanging loosely over her body, open in front like a cloak. Both these two on coming on board touched noses after the manner of salutation of their country with the most of those we brought out from England, & immediately after went with them below to their cabins, where they all soon commenced a disagreeable howling noise in lamentations of their late king & queen'. The canoes had 'all outriggers the same as described by Captain Cook [James Cook, explorer and captain in the British Royal Navy, who visited Hawaii in 1778 and 1779] & others', the governor's canoe being over 40 feet long and 'very neatly made'
The boats returning at 5pm saying the anchorage was good and the entrance sufficiently large. Sailing for the island of Mowee [Maui, Hawaii], to take Queen Kauamanah [Ka'ahumanu, queen regent (Kuhina Nui) of the kingdom of Hawai'i, formerly married to King Kamehameha I] and 'any other people of consequence' on board the ship to attend the funeral
The neighbourhood around Heddo Bay being densely covered with wood as far as could be seen to the east, the western side made up of deep ravines with 'abrupt' cliffs by the sea and beautiful waterfalls. Seeing several huts around the edge of the bay, 'pleasantly situated under thick groves of coconut & breadfruit trees (a 'delightful spot'), with trees including candlenut (Alurites) [Aleurites] ('so easily distinguished at so long a distance from their white, shining leaves'). Fine weather and fresh easterly breezes at dusk. Temperature 74°-76°
(4 May 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with moderate northerly breezes. Seeing the 'grand appearance of the snow-covered summit' of Mouna Kaah [Mauna Kea, Hawai'i Island], rising far above the clouds, and Mouna Roa [Mauna Loa, Hawai'i Island]: the view 'would repay the travellers for coming on purpose to see them'. Seeing no snow on the mountains of Mowee [Maui]. On approaching the shore, seeing deep ravines with waterfalls, 'admired by all persons on board, most of whom anxiously wished to be on shore, that they might satisfy their thirst from such beautiful water', the water on board having been in short supply and sometimes not drinkable. Seeing high mountains rising from the shore, covered with forests and vegetation along the coast, but not seeing much cultivation. Seeing many huts, mostly on ridges near the coast, 'for the convenience of fishing'
Seeing a Sandwich Island [Hawaii] schooner at 4pm heading towards the town of Lahina [Lahaina, Maui]. Signalling to the schooner at 6pm for a pilot, 'when several canoefuls of natives of both sexes came alongside the ship, bringing us some fruit & provisions'. Landing 'all the Sandwich people brought from England' dressed in new mourning suits, forming a 'rare contrast beside their naked countrymen'. Being received by 'some thousands of the natives, making a very disagreeable loud howling noise, ceasing at intervals for a few minutes, then commencing again', and continuing most of the night
Anchoring at 7pm near a coral reef with a high surf. The native schooner sent during the night to Woahoo [O'ahu] to inform Mr Pitt [Karaimoku, also known as William Pitt, Kalaimoku, Kalanimoku or Billy Pitt, chief or prime minister in the kingdom of Hawai'i, brother of Boki] and Mr Charlton [Richard Charlton, newly appointed British consul at Sandwich Islands] of the Blonde's arrival. Temperature 73°-76.5°
(5 May 1825) A fine morning. The ship's boats lowered to acquire fresh water. Being given permission to go on shore at 9am by the first lieutenant, 'after promising not to go by any means out of the ship's sight', in case the ship were to sail. 'Three poor, rugged white men' at the watering place offering to accompany McRae 'through the native huts & plantations, being to a stranger in places rather difficult to find out the shortest way, from the numerous tarro [taro] ponds almost everywhere among the huts'
Seeing taro widely cultivated in square ponds about four feet deep, the water supplied from a nearby stream by a small canal, 'emptying itself one to another, until at last it reaches the seashore'. The ponds sometimes converted into fish and duck ponds, kept free of rushes and other weeds and 'planted with surprising regularity, not far behind another more civilised race of people. The singular method which they have adopted for growing this farinaceous esculent always in water, has originated beyond doubt at an early period with themselves, perhaps from their extreme fondness to that element, which they so often frequent during the day, in a manner similar to the feathered aquatic tribe'. Weeding of the ponds being carried out standing knee deep in the water and mud, 'which to any other race of people not so accustomed to water would be found inconvenient'. The roots not planted or harvested at a particular season, but according to need, with the ponds being occasionally drained and left exposed to the sun to allow the mud to harden, 'then round or square clumps are thrown up about two feet high & seven or eight in circumference at short distance from each other, always in straight lines, either across or length-wise in the ponds. In these clumps are planted with the crowns of the taro from eight to twelve in number, alternately about a foot apart. The crowns which they choose for planting are the top parts of the taro, but across about half an inch thick, adhering to the leaves, which they shorten to the length of eight or ten inches'
Tea tree (Dracaena terminalis) [ti plant, Cordyline fruticosa] frequently planted by the edges of the ponds. The roots used for cooking underground ('as is customary with them'), pounded and fermented for a few days in vessels filled with water: 'it makes a good substitute for beer of a very intoxicating quality'. Tasting a piece of cooked root as sweet as sugarcane, '& in my opinion contained an equal quantity of saccharine matter', suggesting the root's potential for sugar manufacture, 'but whilst there is no emulation on parts of the natives for commerce or cultivating more than is really necessary for to supply their present wants, the important value that might likely be found out from this plant with so little trouble and expense, will, like the present, remain yet for a length of time imperfectly known'
One of the men taking McRae to the small garden surrounding his little hut. Seeing Cytysus cajan or 'the common pigeon pea of the West Indies' [Cajanus cajan], given to the man by the captain of an American whaler, with seeds of lima bean (Phaseolus lunatus), in exchange for coffee, but 'being yet unacquainted with the way of using them for food, he always felt afraid to touch them for that purpose for fear of doing hurt'. Other plants including light red cabbages, two kinds of sweet potato ('the red & white'), watermelons, pumpkins, sugarcane, two or three ponds of taro and some bitter gourds ('used by the natives for various purposes as calabashes'): '[this] was all, with a hog & a few fowls, he had for the support of himself & family. His wife is a native woman by whom he has three children. These he has often applied to the missionaries to baptize, without success, being by them considered born out of wedlock'
Continuing beyond the huts and plantations to the common pasture land. Seeing 'but few plants', including Cleome, Argemone, two kinds of Malva and three kinds of Sida ('two of which the natives use for wreaths & necklaces, by stringing flowers on a thread made from the bark of the tapa [paper mulberry, Broussonetia papyrifera, also known as kapa in Hawaiian]'. Not seeing any plantains in the gardens, and only three kinds of bananas ('one of these was much shorter than the others, & different to any that I have ever seen before. The natives use the juice of this plant, which is of a yellow colour, for venereal complaints. It grows everywhere on the seacoast'), the red banana common in Otahite [Tahiti, French Polynesia] not having reached the islands yet, but 'will no doubt be now soon introduced by Mr Charlton [Richard Charlton], who is to visit that island once every year'
The town of Lahina [Lahaina] composed of several low, thatched huts by the flat seashore at the foot of a mountain, the town 'about a mile in length, & in places nearly half the distance in breadth', with coconut trees growing in a grove west of the town and along the beach. Seeing a 'mud battery in bad repair' with five small cannons and a small white-washed mud hut inside its walls, the recent burial place of 'one of Tamahamaah's [Kamehameha I, former king of the kingdom of Hawai'i] queens'. Visiting the missionaries' chapel and other dwellings and gardens near the fort, and being shown 'the only grapevine upon the island, which was yet but young'. Seeing a small, white-washed, two-story brick house by the beach, built 16 years previously by Tamahamaah 'for his favourite queen Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu], which she never inhabited, choosing rather to live in a thatched hut after the manner of the country'. No regular streets in the town, 'being all cultivated, & rather difficult to get from one end to the other, on account of the numerous tarro ponds. This pleasant little place looked everywhere similar to a well-cultivated garden, divided into numerous different allotments by mud walls', with sugarcane, cotton, tobacco and cabbage growing on the narrow ridges between the ponds. The bark of the tapa tree (Brousetta) [Broussonetia papyrifera] used for making clothes, the trees widely cultivated in rows and kept free of weeds. Being told that the number of inhabitants in the town was about 6,000, hundreds of people having died 'during a short time, from some unknown fever that had been introduced among them [possibly influenza or whooping cough, with several epidemics recorded between 1818 and 1826]'
The ship's boats finishing taking on water, livestock and other provisions by 4pm, and McRae returning on board the ship. Sailing towards the island of Woahoo [O'ahu] with a strong northerly breeze, along with 'about forty natives, among whom we had the mother of the deceased queen & her daughter, a young interesting girl about ten years of age, sister to the present youth proclaimed king [Kauikeaouli, also known as Kamehameha III, king of the kingdom of Hawai'i]. This young princess [Nahienaena, also known as Harriet or Harrieta Keopuolani Nahi'ena'ena, princess of the kingdom of Hawai'i, sister of Kamehameha II and Kamehameha III] was dressed in deep mourning, brought her by Madam Poki [Kuini Liliha, high chiefess of the kingdom of Hawai'i, married to Boki] from England, with everything else in the English style, fit to be worn by a lady, which although before unaccustomed to this sort of dress, she appeared to be much taken up with it'. Several of the chiefs also dressed 'in the European fashion, while others of an inferior rank had only merely a shirt & maro [malo] without a hat', the 'poorer tribe of natives' dressed similarly to those at Heddo Bay [Hilo Bay]. Temperature 72°-76°
(6 May 1825) A fine morning. Reaching the island of Woahoo [O'ahu] at dawn, with a view of Diamond Hill [Diamond Head, O'ahu] and Wytitte Bay [Waikiki Bay, O'ahu], 'pleasantly covered with thick groves of coconut trees, where lay underneath many of the natives' huts', and a green mountain intersected by deep ravines and high, peaked ridges. Arriving at the harbour of Hana-rura [Honolulu] at 8am. Richard Charlton coming on board to conduct the ship safely to anchorage, past a coral reef running across the harbour
Anchoring at 10am in 20 fathoms of water. Firing a salute of 15 guns, 'which was to our surprise returned with the same number from both the forts on shore, where we noticed was twisted their national flag, having the union of England [Union flag] in the upper corner [the Hawaiian flag, designed at the request of King Kamehameha I in 1816, included the Union flag in the upper left-hand corner, and was used as the flag of Hawaii until 1898, when Hawaii was declared a United States territory]'. Seeing several American merchant ships and other smaller vessels ('two whom were native brigs, mounted with 8 or 10 small guns') anchored in the harbour. Seeing the hull of a whale ship from London on the reef, which had been wrecked two weeks previously during the night, 'waiting for the captain, who was on shore enjoying himself too freely with his friends'. The crew, assisted by the local people, had managed to save themselves and the cargo of almost 800 barrels of sperm oil.
No one being permitted to go on shore, apart from 'the natives & his lordship [George Anson Byron], accompanied by the chaplain [Rowland Bloxam], who upon their landing were met by crowds of the natives on the beach, making the same disagreeable howling noise as before'
'We have been at times highly amused with their simple manners, going to different parts of the ship, eagerly examining what they saw. But at other times we felt ourselves not a little disgusted, when we saw them sit down to their meals, eating raw fish with the gills & entrails, & their fingers covered with blood. They appeared to have no particular stated times for their meals, but eat when they felt inclined, sometimes so late as 12 o'clock at night, & at others by daylight in the morning. This diet consisted of raw or dried fish & the tarro [taro]. The latter they generally ground with a mixture of cold water on a thick board with a stone, to nearly the same consistency with starch prepared by us for linen, then afterwards [it] is put into calabashes till it is wanted to be eaten. This they term poi, which when they can procure fish to eat with it, is their constant & favourite food. When a family have their meals, they sit on the ground in form of a ring with their calabashes of poi in the centre, where they in turns keep dipping the forefinger of the right hand somewhat bent in to the same dish, which they afterwards thrust into their mouths. The poi, which they make from the tarro root, tasted to me sour & unpalatable, but when sweetened with sugar, it was greatly improved, & not altogether disliked by many on board. What most attracted the natives' notice, was the unusual large size of our ship to them, which whenever they would come on deck, they began sometimes to the number of half a dozen to fathom her length from the stern to the bows along the bulwark, & at other times laying themselves flat on the quarter deck. Their knowledge of measurement appeared to us to be yet but very imperfect & only amounting to a calculation of fathoms carefully taken by the hands, dependent on the memory, different to the Africans, who tally their numbers by notches on a stick'
Being surprised to hear 'the eight o'clock gun' firing from the fort, 'as is customary with the garrisons of other nations at that hour. The people on shore kept quiet & peaceable all day, excepting for an hour or two, when those on board went on shore'. Temperature 72.5°-76.5°
(7 May 1825) A fine morning. Going on shore in the forenoon with George Anson Byron and 'most of the principal officers'. Being met by Richard Charlton and several of the chiefs, to join the procession to Mr Pitt's (Kramaku) [given name William Pitt] house to be introduced: 'the chiefs were all decently dressed in the European costume', placing 'one of us between every two of themselves, each having hold of our arm till we reached our destination', a small thatched hut near the end of the town with a large garden, fenced with high poles
Finding Pitt seated in an armchair, dressed in a black robe or gown with breeches, shoes and stockings, 'his visage thin and defective of an eye, but by no means unpleasant in his manners'. Seeing a platform at one end of the hut, raised about a foot from the floor, and covered with mats like the rest of the hut. On the platform, the young king [Kauikeaouli, Kamehameha III] and his sister [Nahienaena] were sitting on a 'shabby sofa placed crossways, having at the back of it several handsome, large feather plumes of various colours, customarily used by them in former times when at war or high festivals. The king was dressed in a short blue jacket with shirt & pantaloons, without any shoes or stockings, & his sister in the mourning dress brought her by Madam Poki [Kuini Liliha] from England. Both looked to be of a delicate constitution, & of rather dark complexion, full nostrils & large mouths, but had fine, open countenances, with good eyes & teeth, & not altogether wanting a sensibility of look that rendered them engaging'. The king's principal chiefs and officers positioned in a line on the king's right-hand side, and on the sister's left-hand side Queen Kaumanna [Ka'ahumanu] and two more of their father Tamahamaah's [Kamehameha I] wives reclining on mats. Behind them, standing 'according to their seniority, five more of their deceased brother's wives, joined by a number of other female chiefs [as far as] to the bottom of the hut, dressed in black Canton craps [crepe] or silks of the same colour, with shoes & silk stockings, & showy combs in their hair, every way neatly dressed, contrary to what we all expected to find these people'
After the ceremony of introduction to Billy Pitt [William Pitt], George Anson Byron presenting gifts brought from England to the king, aided by the Spanish interpreter Mr Marin [Francisco de Paula Marin, Spanish settler at Hawaii], including 'a suite of Windsor full uniform dress and an elegant sword, also a gold watch, with the arms of the King of England engraved on the back'. Pitt being given a 'handsome gold ring'. The king trying on his new clothes: 'they were found to fit his size, the same as if he had been measured by a tailor. He looked in them extremely well & felt himself not a little proud when he had on his cocked hat & sword, walking about speaking to some of his subjects'. Everyone being ordered to take their seats on chairs placed in the middle of the hut. Being offered 'country wine' made by Marin the previous year, while 'others were getting introduced to the females, who had by this time nearly all sat down upon the mats where they before had been standing, which when spoken to could only answer by a smile, for want of their not knowing our language. The queens were all of enormous size, & far from being handsome, unless they claimed the honour of being such from their great bulk. Their hair was straight & of a brownish black colour, neatly put up after the manner of the Europeans'
McRae tiring of waiting 'at this mock sort of formality, which already had taken up several hours, that afforded to others of our party some amusement' and attempting to leave 'unperceived, to look after plants'. Being stopped by 'His Lordship [Byron]' and returning to the hut to be introduced to the king as 'the person who brought them plants'. Being given permission to collect wild plants for the Society on the islands, Byron having asked McRae not to collect plants until after the funeral
Walking through the town in the afternoon with others from the ship. The town situated on a sandy, flat ground with scarcely any trees, apart from some coconut trees on the shore. Most of the huts small, thatched with grass all over. The huts of 'some of the Europeans & chiefs' covered with mud half a yard thick, to prevent them from burning down, a common danger with thatching. These mud huts 'much better finished inside', their floors spread with mats made of rushes or leaves of Pandanus, while 'the huts of the poorer class are mere hovels', with low doorways, 'where they creep on hands & knees to get out & in to them, & without anything to shut them up at nights, but a piece of cloth or a mat'. Seeing hogs tied up in the corners of some huts, and in others 'dogs nearly deprived of their hair from the effects of mange, the stench arising from allowing these animals to live with themselves in the same hut was so offensive that we felt surprised how they could exist to outlive one night together'
Only four or five of the houses being built 'after the European manner', one of them belonging to an American merchant, and another unfinished house to Pitt. Pitt's house being used as a 'guard house for a few naked soldiers, who do duty at times by way of mounting guard in front of the king's hut after a peculiar custom of their own, in the following manner. Six or eight of these turn out together & form a line (not a straight one), & keep walking backwards & forwards, one after another, till they are dismissed', the last in the line ringing a small bell to signal to the others when to turn around. Some of them carrying a bayonet ('held upright or reversed, just as it suits his own convenience'), or a rusty old American musket ('without a flint, & sometimes a lock') and a cartouche box [for carrying cartridges] tied with a piece of untanned goat skin
The town of Hana-rura [Honolulu] comprising about 500-600 households 'taken at the moderate calculation of ten to a hut', each household consisting of families of two or three generations living together: 'they will amount in population to nearly the number of 6,000, which I think is underrated'. The huts irregularly built, enclosed with low mud walls and surrounded by small gardens, but with no taro ponds like at Mowee [Maui]. The gardens cultivated with tobacco, Indian corn [flint corn], watermelons and pumpkins, others neglected and overgrown with weeds, home to hogs, goats, dogs and poultry
Seeing a fort on the harbour built of mud and coral rock ('picked up in the absence of the tide'), with 50 guns ('18-pounders'), exchanged with the Americans for sanderswood [sandalwood]. The fort appearing to be in 'bad repair, & in charge of an old Irishman, who has been on the island many years'. Seeing another fort at the top of a hill resembling a volcano above the town, with 10 guns, and a view over the town, the taro ponds and other cultivations in the valley along two rivers. Several American inhabitants living on the island, two of them keeping a public house with accommodation: 'they have already managed to introduce a billiard table', and source 'all kinds of spirits' and wine from whale ships stopping at the island for provisions and water
Returning on board the ship in the evening. Temperature 72°-76.5°
(8 May 1825) Sunday. A fine day. Going on shore after dinner with 'several of the gentlemen on board'. Richard Charlton asking McRae to accompany him to William Pitt's the following day to arrange a collecting trip to the woods, 'which was now what I anxiously wished for'. Charlton offering assistance, including 'to make use of three of his jackasses [donkey] brought from England to carry myself & specimens. These I assured him would be of more hindrance than of use to me, & that I would rather have the same number of natives in preference, but of this he would hear no denial, till at last I consented to accept of one'. Pitt promising 'what natives I wanted as well as a guide who knows the country' the following day
'With such flattering hopes of success', spending the afternoon 'idling about' the town with his companions, 'who did not forget tormenting [me] for refusing the asses, which they said would be just the thing for them for when they had time to be long enough on shore to go with me on my journeys'. Seeing sugar cane ('mostly of the purple & striped kind') and 'a few patches of our potatoes with weak stems' growing in the fields above the town
Returning on board the ship at sunset, 'highly amused with our afternoon walk, which afforded us an opportunity of observing more of the natives' simple manners, & their mode of dancing, which they always accompany with a song by graceful motions of the arms & body, raising their voice at intervals to a high key, then again lowering it, without any given certain tune that had in the least resemblance to music. They all at this place approached us everywhere we went, with freedom, & not in the least intimated like those we saw at the other island, likely arising from more intercourse with foreigners than them. Several we met would speak a good many words of English, to whom they are very much attached, & often heard to make use of the word 'Briganie maithi', which means English very good & superior to people of other nations, whom they esteem with jealousy'
Temperature 72.5°-76.5°
(9 May 1825) A fine morning. Going on shore to make arrangements with Richard Charlton and William Pitt, but due to the funeral preparations, 'got nothing done'
Dining in 'one of the shabby inns on shore'. The innkeeper, an American called Novara ('an obliging disposed man)', acting also as an auctioneer and merchant, and benefiting from the trade of the vessels stopping at the island to buy sandalwood in exchange for 'European & Chinese manufactured goods'. Being told sandalwood was discovered 'by one of themselves in 1810, whose name was Brown [Hawaiians had been selling sandalwood to China since the 1790s, but in 1811, Kamehameha I established a monopoly on the trade with American ship captains. After his death the scheme collapsed and trade was freed]'. The merchants interested in the trade of sandalwood had introduced small vessels to attract trade from the government, 'filled up with showy cabins, such as looking glasses with red Morocco cushions etc, sold at the enormous price of 80,000 dollars, to be paid in sanderswood [sandalwood]', bringing the wood into their large storehouses in Hana-Rura [Honolulu] for loading into ships. Other articles brought to the islands by 'these scheming speculators' included naval and military items, 'small wooden frames of houses made in America' and light two- or four-wheeled carts. The speculators attempting to sell a large carriage but without success, 'although the regent & some of the queens were indulged to have a ride in it'
The local people preferring a cart to lie down in when they went to bathe, carts being rarely used for other purposes, and 'always drawn by natives in preference to horses or mules', although they also rode the horses with or without saddles. 'Bathing alone may be said to induce the higher ranks of these people, who are yet but partly civilised savages, to leave their homes, where they spend most of their time either sitting or lying down asleep upon mats, excepting when they have a desire for this favourite amusement, which the whole tribe are so exceedingly fond of, that seldom during the day the seashore & the harbour is seen without numbers of both sexes mixed together, swimming with perfect ease, as if they had been of the same species with the aquatic feather tribe'
Despite the Americans having been on the islands for seven years and their 'lucrative trade' enabling them to live comfortably, 'it appears none of them has yet possessed lands of their own in this country, whether from aversion or jealousy to strangers on part of the chiefs, which is predominant among them, or from the more lucrative gain on the part of the Americans to procure sanderswood [sandalwood], only that grants or leases of land have never taken place, which might, by growing cotton, coffee or sugar, be soon with little expense turned to equal advantage with the other. Be this as it may, they have however but little (if any) improved the morals of the natives, & entirely neglected to teach them the arts of agriculture beyond what they understood of themselves when visited by Cook [James Cook] & Vancouver [George Vancouver, explorer and captain in the British Royal Navy. He first visited Hawaii as a midshipman under the command of James Cook in 1778-1779, and subsequently commanded his own expeditions, in 1792-1794], that of growing the taro root, which is their chief subsistence. & even this, I was told, had been much neglected during the late king's reign, who, contrary to his father (Tamahamaah [Kamehameha I]), encouraged free permission to gambling & all sorts of vice to the natives. It is said of this king, that during the time he had reigned till his departure for England, that he was given to every kind of debauchery & so much addicted to intemperance from excessive drinking before he left the country, as to be for months at a time hardly ever sober, & while in this state, often seen one day naked with only the maro [malo] on, & on the next, perhaps the best European dress'
Waiting for the boats at sunset, 'usually sent on shore at this time for the convenience of persons on shore belonging to the ship to return on board'. Meeting the Irishman managing the forts, standing in the doorway of a thatched hut by the harbour, the king's residence before he left for England. McRae expressing his surprise that the king lived in 'such a poor hut' and being shown that inside it was 'the best in town', divided into separate apartments by low canvas screens for his six wives, 'who lived separate from each other & never associated together'. One of the apartments now being used for naval stores. Being told the king had similar accommodation fitted on board a brig called Albatross, on which he sailed with his wives for up to two months at a time, 'during which time he had hardly ever been free from intoxication'
Discovering on boarding the ship that the hold had been cleared to reach the coffins. Temperature 72°-76.5°
(10 May 1825) A fine day. The coffins being brought on deck in the morning and the lids of the outer cases opened, 'for those on board that had a wish to look at them'. Both coffins covered with fine, red cloth with gilded decorations and the names of the deceased engraved on the top
Light rain showers at noon. Richard Charlton's cutter arriving at 3pm, the Blonde having left it at the Gallapago Islands [Galapagos Islands]. Going on shore in the afternoon to see George Anson Byron and Charlton to 'inform them [of] the necessity of my getting a hut somewhere on shore, as I could not do anything to my plants on board, for want of having accommodation'. Being promised a hut and returning on board at sunset, 'without getting any further done'. Learning that the funeral was planned for the following day. Temperature 73°-76.5°
(11 May 1825) A hazy morning with a light wind. The coffins of the king and queen lowered into the launch boat at 9am, and everyone on board ordered to prepare themselves. The boats boarded at 1pm, and forming 'a line ahead of the launch to tow her with the bodies on shore, with George Anson Byron in his gig on the right-hand side and the first lieutenant in a whaleboat on the left-hand side, the colours [flags] in all the boats half-mast. '26 minute guns' being fired, with a similar response from the forts on shore and from an American ship in the harbour. The boat procession 'had a grand & solemn appearance'
The coffins placed on light four-wheeled wagons with a supporting wooden frame covered with black tapa cloth, leaving the ends of the coffins visible. The wagons being slowly drawn 'by their late majesties' favourite domestics, having before them our marines & the band playing slow marches'. The new king following the wagons with Byron and Richard Charlton, both in their full uniforms and the king in his new Windsor uniform, followed by the lieutenants and 'their other gunroom messmates, joined by a number of queens & high chiefs with their wives, all dressed in black after the European manner, but many of them without shoes or stockings'. McRae following them with other 'steerage passengers, intermixed with several natives of a more inferior rank', followed by about 100 sailors in a procession four-deep, the midshipmen in full uniform, with native soldiers standing on the sides, 'their rusty firearms reversed, & most of themselves naked with only the maro [malo] on. Some few of them we saw had on Russian military jackets, that gave them a very ludicrous appearance, from the rest of their body being exposed naked', and one of the solders wearing 'an old black hat, & a white, dirty shirt half-way down his thigh, leaving the rest of his legs bare'. Passing 12 soldiers, standing six on each side of the procession in 'handsome coloured feather tippets, which we concluded to be of a higher rank'. Large, beautiful feather plumes being carried 'in a leaning posture, as is customary with them when going in battle, which from the variety of colours added much to the solemnity of the scene'
Stopping outside the missionaries' chapel by a bell hung on an old wooden frame, for the [ship's] chaplain to read a prayer in English, and for one of the missionaries to read a prayer in 'the native language [Hawaiian]' before resuming the procession. On their arrival at William Pitt's hut between 2pm and 3pm, the sailors forming a line in front of the hut and the coffins being placed inside the hut on a low wooden platform, covered with 'fine mats of various striped colours, & hung round above with black tap [tapa] cloth'. The queens of the deceased king entering the hut with 'three of his father's [wives] still alive, & who are of a higher rank', joined by the wives and daughters of the chiefs, with Pitt, Boki and other 'chiefs of consequence' and the officers of the Blonde and some Americans standing on the other side. 'No inferior class of natives' being allowed to join the procession or the hut
The chaplain 'gave out an anthem', accompanied by the band, followed by a prayer and the missionaries praying 'in the native language [Hawaiian]'. Pitt, who had not joined the procession, remaining in his hut, 'quite composed in his arm chair, dressed in his usual black gown'. Judging the funeral 'conducted with solemnity, in a style far superior to what most on board before going on shore had ever expected could be done'. Only 'one fault allowed to occur to any observer like myself', in that the 'respectable few Americans resident in the place' had not been invited to join the proceedings, 'but suffered to form, unasked, a small body of themselves at some distance apart', despite the chiefs, particularly Boki, being on friendly terms with them
Everyone from the ship being ordered to return to their boats 'in marching order, with the band in front playing lively airs, which brought nearly all the natives in the place from their homes, eagerly running towards us like mad people on hearing the sound of the great drum that so much astonished them', breaking through the lines of soldiers to accompany the crew to the harbour, 'which afforded to many, particularly the sailors, good amusement'. Everyone having a glass of grog before embarking, and the officers being given 'a similar refreshment at his lordship's house'. Returning on board at 5pm without incident, 'further than a few of the marines managed to get a drop too much'
Mr Dampier ('the draftsman') [Robert Dampier, artist on HMS Blonde], had been stationed all day 'in some convenient place' to draw the funeral proceedings. Dampier had started to draw portraits of some of the queens, residing in their homes, 'some say for the purpose of getting a more correct painting'. Temperature 73°-76°
(12 May 1825) A fine day. Going on shore to collect with permission from George Anson Byron, having been given 'the favour of a lad from the ship to assist'. Taking 'some salt provisions & some biscuits, with my bedding etc on shore'. Byron allowing McRae the use of one of the rooms in his house for the purpose, not having found a hut for him to stay in
Going to the hut of 'one of the natives (Manaware) brought with us out from England'. Despite having previously invited McRae to stay, 'he treated me rather coolly', refusing to accommodate McRae and suggesting Pitt might be able to find him a hut. Going on board Richard Charlton's ship (Charlton staying on the ship rather than on shore), 'but here I met with the same disappointment, from his having Lord Byron & several others with him at the time to dinner'. Determined to go to the woods early the following morning, sending the lad on board Charlton's cutter 'to boil a piece of salt beef for our journey, having already lost too many days idling on shore'. Andrew Bloxam wishing to join McRae on his excursion, and suggesting they both stay at Byron's house for the night. Temperature 72°-76.5°
(13 May 1825) A fine morning. Getting up at 4am to fetch 'the lad (Mantle)' from the cutter, having left him there for the night, ready to start the journey at 5am. Taking salt beef and biscuits with them and stopping to take along one of Richard Charlton's asses. Furnishing it with difficulty with a pack saddle containing their heaviest items, and giving the charge of the donkey to Mantle, 'who could neither ride, lead nor drive it before him fast enough to keep up with us walking slowly, which put the poor fellow out of temper'. Deciding to leave the donkey behind, with the pack saddle ('mostly goat skins') and bridle, in one of the natives' huts, on discovering the way out of town was around the taro ponds, surrounded by low stone walls several miles in length. The cultivations appearing similar to those on the island of Mowee [Maui], but better weeded, with the ridges between the ponds growing sugarcane, tobacco, cabbage, watermelons and pumpkins
Stopping for breakfast by a clear stream of water at 8am after three miles' journey, but being interrupted by 'crowds of the natives', surrounding the party, 'sitting on their hams with us in the middle, all the while staring on us with surprise, while eating our mouthful of beef & biscuits, in a manner compared to so many starved dogs, which in hopes to shame them away a little father from us, we freely parted with some of what we were eating'. Packing up the remaining provisions, 'as their numbers were so fast increasing, that we in a manner felt doubtful from their ravenous appearance, but they might attempt to deprive us of the whole we had'. Collecting by the river two species of Polypodium, three species of Convolvulus and a Hibiscus with white and light purple flowers. Continuing the journey followed by 'a number of natives'. Meeting a chief digging up sweet potatoes, who addressed them in English in a friendly manner and offered them a young boy to carry Bloxam's bag and traps, 'on being informed he wanted one for the purpose'
Entering the woods at 10am, after a five-mile journey through the taro ponds and cultivations of sweet potatoes, bananas and watermelons. Seeing by the river abundant, but 'unhealthy' breadfruit trees and tea tree (Dracaena terminalis) [ti plant, Cordyline fruticosa], growing 2-4 feet high, and about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Seeing several large sheds, where during the last king's reign the chiefs had distilled 'great quantities of spirits from the fermented liquor made from the roots [of the ti plant, producing an alcoholic beverage called okolehao], by means of large iron pots obtained from whale ships in exchange for provisions'
Seeing Euginea malaccensis (rose apple) [Syzygium malaccense] trees in the woods, with hummingbirds ('one of which Mr B. had the luck to shoot') feeding on the red blossoms. McRae surprised to find the tree growing so far away from habitation. All the other trees common to the islands, including Aluritis [Aleurites], a species of Acacia ('used by the natives for making their canoes & paddles'), with numerous ferns ('handsome') growing under the trees and on the trunks, in both damp and dry locations, covering every area of ground. The trees becoming loftier towards the centre of the island and the ground underneath them shady and damp. Seeing several species of Pshycotria [Psychotria], Beseleria [Besleria], tall lobelias 'producing splendid clusters of flowers' and three kinds of Metrosideros 'with rich branches of scarlet flowers, having about them a number of red birds sucking the honey from their blossoms, which we shot, but could not find them afterwards owing to the number of ferns & other plants on the ground underneath'
Reaching the end of the valley at 5pm, after about 10 miles' journey, with a view of the Pacific Ocean on both sides of the island: 'a very gratifying sight'. Stopping for half an hour to enjoy the cool breeze by the high cliffs covered with Lycopodium cernua [Lycopodiella cernua] ('common within the tropics') and two or three kinds of Vaccinium and other shrubby plants, giving the mountain ('at least 3,000 feet high') a 'pleasant appearance of verdure'. Finding the location a 'thoroughfare for the natives crossing the island from one side to the other'. Being overtaken by a 'man somewhat better dressed than the rest of the natives', who addressed them in English and told them about himself. He had left his native Otahite [Tahiti] as a young sailor on a whale ship, serving in the British navy until being wounded at the Battle of Algiers [the Bombardment of Algiers, 1816, was an attempt by the British and the Dutch to free Christian slaves in Algeria] and discharged with a pension of £25 a year. The man telling the party they would be able to travel by sea around the remaining part of the island to the town
Deciding to remain 'at some hut on this side for the night', but having 'the most difficult task' still ahead, to descend a winding path, 'in places for several yards together quite perpendicular, that required us to take off our shoes to prevent any false step & to scramble the best way we could, at times backwards on our hands & knees, when the natives in our company carried their loads seemingly with perfect ease, & enjoyed hartty [heartily], when they saw us in the least terror to go on & have to come to our assistance to prevent our falling'. Finding lodgings for the night in the hut of 'a Bengal black, who had, he informed us, been wrecked in an Indiaman [East India Company ship] on the coast some years ago, & has since lived on the island with a native woman, by whom he has several children. This fellow, who was very communicative, & spoke good English, informed us that he followed the tailoring trade, & sometimes had acted as cook for the king before he went to England'
With some hours of daylight remaining, dining on 'a mouthful of beef & biscuit' and walking to the sea, about a mile away, while the 'Bengal black' was cooking supper. Passing several huts with small cultivated gardens planted with Brousetta [Broussonetia papyrifera], its bark used for making tapa cloth, and a plant called none [noni], used for obtaining 'their favourite yellow dye for their tapa cloths'. Seeing in the ravines some taro ponds and several groves of rose apple coming into fruit, 'growing seemingly without any cultivation'. The area around the bay 'thickly inhabited', and numerous fish and taro ponds in evidence. The bay itself 'open', but with rocks rising above the water, making it unsafe for anchoring ships. The mountains on this side of the island terminating in abrupt cliffs, and the four or five miles of land nearest the coast left uncultivated, 'the same as nature had formed it', apart from the small cultivated patches of land around the huts
Finding on their return to the hut at dusk 'some taro root ready cooked, or rather baked underground with hot stones, & a small freshwater fish of the mullet kind, cooked in a similar way, enclosed in the leaf of the tea tree [ti plant]. This with a little of our beef & biscuit made a comfortable supper'. Sleeping on mats 'by the side of the Bengal black & his wife, with her father & mother & the rest of the family, in all upwards of a dozen, men, women & children, besides several dogs, thickly stowed together at one end of the hut without distinction'. Temperature 74°-78°
(14 May 1825) A fine morning. Rising at 4am after a restless night 'from fleas & cold, the hut being so open that light could be easily seen through it'. Abandoning the idea of travelling around the island by the coast due to lack of sufficient provisions, after learning from their landlord that their intended route would take two days instead of one, as they had been informed earlier
Leaving at 5am ('while the heavy dew yet remained on the grass') to return by the same route they had come, after giving their landlord 'a trifle' for their accommodation. Being overtaken by 'numbers of the natives, who commence early in the mornings to travel on account of the heat after sunrise. Most of them were all loaded with provisions for the chiefs, such as hogs, tied by the four feet together, carried on the back & at times led, or drove before, while others carry bundles of taro, or large calabashes of poi, secured to each end of a staff thrown across the shoulder, the one hanging before & the other behind, keep travelling on in this manner with a short, shuffling step with perfect ease, stopping to rest themselves at every other short distance to have a few draws in turn from a wooden tobacco pipe. Then they resume their journey as before, having no calculations of time beyond that of the rising & setting of the sun to hurry them on farther than to gain some hut for to put up at for the night, being afraid owing to superstition to travel after dark'
'Having had more opportunity during today & yesterday than hitherto of seeing the manners & customs of these people from curious little parties carrying their provisions to the chiefs or to market. Both sexes are generally tatood [tattooed] irregularly, some with figures of goats, muskets & even letters of the alphabate [alphabet], name & birthplace with the date of the year, is not unfrequently seen along the arm. The men, many of them shave their heads & cut their hair in the form of a helmet, the crest of which is often bleached with lime, so as to be of a light whitish colour. The women esteem it cut short, keeping only a rim over the forehead bleached white & standing in front like bristles. Sometimes a long curl is preserved on the middle of the forehead, which is combed backwards. Some suffer their hair to grow, & tie it up behind in a bunch. Many of the females, different to any of the other sex, have a tatood line about two inches broad inside the thigh, down as low as the ankle, where it terminates in that part in form of a ring, generally on the right foot. Most of them had a looking glass & a wooden tobacco pipe tied round the neck in a handkerchief or a piece of tapa cloth. So great is their desire of smoking, that they are seldom seen any length of time without using it, & what is something curious to observe among them, that although most of both sexes carry their own pipe & tobacco, rarely more than one is seen to light their pipe, which after a few draws of smoke taken first by the person who filled it, the pipe is then handed to the next, & so on till the whole present are satisfied without any distinction of persons'
Nearing the end of the wood at 10am, when 'Mr B. [Andrew Bloxam] got impatient to wait any longer with me & soon after parted to be home before the sun's heat increased', McRae staying behind to collect plants. Arriving at 'his lordship's [George Anson Byron] house' to find that Richard Charlton had not found him anywhere to stay. Going ('reluctantly') on board the ship to arrange his specimens in paper, but having to wait until sunset before finding a boat, provided by Charlton, the ship's boats being unavailable. Charlton promising to have a hut for McRae for the following day. Temperature 62°-78°
(15 May 1825) Sunday. A fine day. A church service performed at 10am. Spending most of the day arranging specimens, sorting seeds and making more seed papers. George Anson Byron asking what McRae thought of the hut given to him by Richard Charlton, 'as he wished every one of us to be comfortable, to which I replied it was good enough, but that I was informed it was empty, & would require a couple of stools & something by way of a table to write upon'. Byron ordering for the items to be delivered to the hut
A whale boat with the surveyor [Charles Robert Malden], purser and a midshipman 'got up set in the surph [surf] on the reef outside the harbour', remaining there for 20 minutes until another boat came to pick them up, its occupants 'nearly drowned, holding on by the keel of the boat turned upwards'. Temperature 73°-76°
(16 May 1825) A fine day. Going on shore at 10am 'with my friend Mr Forder [a passenger on HMS Blonde], who intends to remain with me to amuse himself in drawing plants for me, & to take [care] of the hut while I am absent in the woods'. Taking all his traps to the hut, a new hut with no previous tenants, about half a mile east of the town. Arranging his specimens in the afternoon, 'while the lad Mantle slung our hammocks across the corners of our hut & set what little furniture we had to rights, as he thought proper'
George Anson Byron and the surgeon [William Davis] riding out before dusk to invite McRae to accompany them to Pearl River [Pearl Harbor, O'ahu] the following day, by water, saying that if he wanted to join them, he should meet them for breakfast at 8am. Temperature 72°-76.5°
(17 May 1825) A fine day. Getting up at 5am and writing until 8am before going for breakfast at George Anson Byron's house with Mantle. Taking along 'the necessary traps for collecting, as well as some salt beef & biscuits'. Setting off at noon with a party consisting of Byron, the surgeon [William Davis], the draftsman [Robert Dampier], 'both the Bloxams [Andrew Bloxam and Rowland Bloxam]', Mr and Mrs Charlton [Richard Charlton and Betsy Bastram-Charlton] and 'sister' [Mrs Taylor, Betsy Bastram's sister], a master's mate and 'a native lad commonly called Sir Joseph Banks, as our pilot'
Reaching the mouth of Pearl River [Pearl Harbor] after two hours' sailing along the coast. The river dividing into several branches with two islands in the middle. One of the islands called Rabbit Island [Ford Island, O'ahu], 'from a person the name of Marine [Francisco de Paula Marin], a Spaniard residing at Hana-rura [Honolulu], having put rabbits upon it some years ago, which have since increased to numbers'. The winds becalming. Byron, Charlton and the Bloxams rowing a small whale boat ahead, 'which occasioned much delay afterwards, partly from our being strangers to where the several branches of the river lead to, & the stupidity of Joe Banks, not telling us where he was ordered by Pitt [William Pitt] and Boki to take us all to for to remain for the night. Hour after hour passed away in useless suspense', one of the boats rowing in the hot sun in one branch of the river, the other sailing down another branch trying to find the rowing boat. Finally both boats landing at Rabbit Island and the whole party being re-united by 6pm, 'somewhat discontented, particularly the ladies'. Sitting down to dine on mats laid on the grass and 'matters were soon restored to perfect harmony, & the wine bottle passed round freely to everyone of the company to drink each other's health, without form or any kind of ceremony in respect to persons'
Embarking on the boats at dusk to cross the river to the opposite side to stay in a larger hut for the night. Two old men entering the hut at 10pm 'to play the hura [hula] dance on a couple of large, bottle-shaped gourds in a sitting posture, beating time upon them with the palms of their hands, accompanied by a song made upon their late king. The hura dance is always accompanied by graceful motions of the arms & body, with the same spirit, standing or sitting'. Lying down to sleep at 11pm, 'beside each other on mats, some with pumpkins or what else they could get for a pillow. The ladies got themselves screened off in a corner with a flag beside us, without any other accommodation'
Pearl River [Pearl Harbor] being situated about seven miles from Hana-rura [Honolulu], '& is very improperly called a river', being rather a sea inlet branching in different directions, the three main branches named by surveyors the east, middle and west locks. The entrance to the river and the locks very narrow and shallow, only fit for small vessels, despite deep water over the bar and in the channel. The coast offering 'no variety of plants', apart from argemines [Argemone], Portulacea [Portulaca] and some other annual plants growing among the long grass on all the coasts on the island. The oysters in the river 'small & insipid to the taste, & of no value or consequence'. Temperature 74°-84°
(18 May 1825) A fine morning. Getting up at 4am, 'after a restless night tormented with fleas'. Going to the woods with 'my man Mantle', leaving the rest of the party to sleep. The path terminating after three miles, the grass becoming longer and difficult to walk through, eventually 'we got so much entangled with creeping plants running a little above the ground, underneath the grass, that Mantle, for want of having stockings on his feet, sat down shedding tears, complaining of his ankles & refused to go any farther'. Being over five miles into the woods and with provisions for only two days, travelling inlands towards the town by a path, through taro ponds
Seeing several inhabited huts by the sides of a ravine, 'plentifully stocked' with bananas, taro, breadfruit trees and other vegetables. Meeting an old Englishman and being told about a large river on the other side of the ravine, 'coming out under ground, which on getting to the place, we found to our surprise what he had told us was correct, & remained for some time admiring so curious & subterranean stream of fine, cool water', running from a rapid with a cascade 20 feet high, and ferns and mosses growing on the sides. Being shown 'in the grounds of the natives' plenty of ava plants (Piper) [kava, known in Hawaiian as awa, Piper methysticum], 'mentioned in the history of these islands as being destructive to the health of the natives, when used to excess, from its intoxicating quality. Of this plant I obtained several specimens in flower'. Learning from 'the poor man [I] met with, who is now old & infirm', that he had been on the islands for over 16 years, and the land belonged to Boki. The man had been in charge of it for 10 years until Boki went to England with the king, when another chief had taken the land away, 'which has since obliged him to live on the charity of the natives'
The area around Pearl River extensive, rising 'with a gentle declivity' towards the woods, with no cultivation except around the outskirts. The land divided into allotments or farms belonging to the chiefs, usually enclosed with mud and stone walls 4-5 feet high: 'on these farms live the poorer sort of natives, & often a few wretched, ragged foreigners, who have a hut given them with a small spot of ground, for which they must work a certain number of days in the week for the chiefs, besides paying an annual rent in dogs, hogs, goats, poultry & tapa cloths', a failure to pay resulting in the confiscation of the hut and all their possessions 'by the covetous & indolent chiefs, without any respect whether natives or foreigners. Such is the present despotic, or absolute law in the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii], corroborated by all the foreigners met with at different times, who on our arrival hoped his lordship [George Anson Byron] would render them [and] their little property more secure in future, as was reasonably expected, but to their misfortune, they must yet remain in their present condition, till something is done for them by the British consul, as we have no authority, as far as I could learn, to interfere with the laws of the country'
The country on the return journey uncultivated, except for taro ponds in the ravines. The ponds resembling peat mosses, full of stagnant water, 'which while they continue such a system of cultivation without being confined to certain limits, no convenient road will be made to travel, even on foot, any distance on the island'. Seeing another subterranean river on crossing one of the ravines, much larger than the previous one. Being surprised by a heavy rain shower in the afternoon at the summit of a high hill, covered with tufts of long grass, three miles from Hana-rura [Honolulu]. Seeing a burial ground 'of the natives' on top of the hill, 'where formerly the chiefs of rank had for themselves a morai [a place for burial and worship]'. Seeing a circular salt pond near the sea, nearly two miles in circumference and 'pleasantly surrounded by other low, conical hills', ravines, several huts with taro ponds and a large grove of coconut trees, 'apparently very old from their great height & mossy appearance'
Reaching the town at 6pm, 'somewhat fatigued & wet' after 20 miles' journey, without having found many plants: 'however the journey afforded me more information respecting the present mode of life, which the natives live in, & the manner in which they yet continue to cultivate their grounds, differing but little (if any) from the time described by Captain Cook [James Cook] & others'. Hearing that Byron and the rest of the party had returned only about an hour before. Temperature 65°-83°
(19 May 1825) A fine morning. Putting new specimens in paper and arranging those collected previously. Light rain showers at 4pm. George Anson Byron and the surgeon [William Davis] visiting to ask about McRae's journey in the evening. Two American missionaries inviting McRae to visit them. Mantle still complaining about his foot, but promising to accompany McRae to the woods the following morning. McRae's 'good friend' Mr Forder 'busily employed figuring to [?two] kinds of Portulaca brought home yesterday from the hill above the salt pond'. Temperature 75°-86°
(20 May 1825) A showery morning. Getting up at 4am and leaving at 6am for the woods with Andrew Bloxam. Bloxam deciding at 8am that he had shot enough birds and would go home to change into dry clothes: 'being rather surprised at his intentions of going home so soon, I asked the favour for the first time to shoot me a few birds, as he had enough himself, but this he refused, giving me as an excuse that he intended all his duplicates for Lord Byron [George Anson Byron], & then bid me good morning. Shortly after he had left, Mantle taxed me with too much liberality towards him by giving him the use of a small tin box during the voyage, to carry home any small birds he might kill, observing at the same time, that the excuse he made was no other than a denial to oblige me'
Reaching the summit of the highest hill at noon in torrential rain: 'not a dry stitch of clothing on our bodies'. Temperature 69°. Seeing hills further inland higher than the one they were on, at 2,000 above the sea level. The wood afterwards becoming difficult to penetrate, 'besides very disagreeable owing to the rain, & having by this time loaded ourselves with plants. We now took a mouthful of spirits & a little biscuit, which helped to remove the shivering fit upon us'. Finding 12 different ferns, many of them new, and many other plants, including a parasitic species of Metrosideros with large, scarlet flowers and some lobelias with 'large clusters of handsome flowers'. Seeing small, colourful, striped land shells on the leaves of the different species of wild tapa (Brousetta) [Broussonetia papyrifera] for the first time. Seeing several 'natives' by their huts eating raw sweet potatoes, 'newly taken up & not even washed free from sand'
Returning to the hut at 6pm. George Anson Byron and the surgeon [William Davis] visiting on their ride towards Diamond Hill [Diamond Head], to ask McRae to meet Byron the following day at William Pitt's house 'to see the plants brought out from England properly transplanted'. Temperature 70°-86°
(21 May 1825) A fine day. Putting specimens in paper until noon. Going to meet George Anson Byron at William Pitt's house to transplant the fruit trees from England. Waiting for Byron 'for some time' and then going to his house. Meeting Richard Charlton, 'who had doubts on his part if anything could be done till late in the afternoon, owing to Pitt & the other chiefs being now asleep, who would not get up under any necessity whatever'. McRae wanting to go to Diamond Hill [Diamond Head] that afternoon. Byron and Charlton telling him to go instead of waiting
Dining at 3pm with Mantle and setting out for Diamond Hill. Being joined by 'a native, who offered himself as a guide'. Reaching the summit at 6.30pm after a steep, difficult climb up the bare hill, with only short tufts of dry grass growing in loose sand to hold onto. Diamond Hill, a former volcano, forming a headland east of Hana-rura [Honolulu] with a flat area two acres wide and 500 feet deep in the centre, covered with long grass. Seeing quartz-like rocks and soft, white, burnt limestone. Seeing huts along the coast on both sides of the hill, 'pleasantly situated' under the shade of banana and coconut trees. Noting that a similar crater near Hana-rura had been turned into a fort with several guns placed along its ridge, 'which, at the time we first made the island, on firing a salute with the other fort near the harbour, had a pleasing effect'
Walking with difficulty along the narrow ridge on top of the hill. Mantle going to rescue McRae's hat carried away over the edge by a strong wind 'while picking up some specimens' and leaving McRae to wait on the summit with their guide. Hearing Mantle calling out and running towards them 'much frightened, which now the native perceived, & laughed heartily, holding out his hand in the direction where Mantle was coming from, using the words 'houry maiti (no good)''. Mantle saying he had picked up a human skull, 'but being in a hurry & dark, he did not perceive what he had got till, thinking he was near me, when he then looked at it, & saw the hollow parts of the eyes, which made him call out to me as he did, & then unfortunately threw it away, but on enquiry whether he thought he could find it for me again, he said it made no difference, as the same place where he found it was full of others, which on account of our having a native with us, we durst not venture on taking any away'
Returning home at 8pm and telling Mr Forder about Mantle's fright, 'which afforded some mirth at his expense'. Hearing from 'an American, who has been on the island for six years & now with me since I came on shore, hired to cook & make himself otherwise useful', that chiefs 'in former times' took criminals up to the hill to throw them over the precipice, their bodies left unburied. Temperature 73°-86°
(22 May 1825) A fine day. Spending the day 'at home among my specimens & seeds'. Richard Charlton, Betsy Bastram-Charlton and her sister [Mrs Taylor] visiting in the afternoon to see McRae's collection. Charlton offering assistance and promising he would provide McRae accommodation in Otahite [Tahiti]. Temperature 74°-86°
(23 May 1825) A fine day. 'Shifting & numbering' specimens and seeds. The governor of Attooi [Humehume, governor of Kaua'i, also known as Attoi and Attooi, Hawaii] visiting at 4pm. The governor, 'lately raised to that honour from his heroic bravery in quelling the insurrection, which took place on that island about two months before our arrival, for which besides governor, he is styled with the honour of being named the Duke of Wellington, the conqueror of Attooi'. The governor aged about 25 years, 'stout made, & rather good-looking in comparison to the rest of his countrymen', raised by Boki ('who was in England, & until lately made a general & governor'). McRae giving him 'a gin case, bottle of rum, nearly full, & a tumbler, which he finished by himself in less than two hours' time, then went away home but little intoxicated with what he had drank. However, from the freedom he had taken with my bottle, on our first acquaintance, I was determined that he should never again have it in his power to enjoy so much from me'. Temperature 72°-82°
(24 May 1825) A fine day. Rising at 5am. Going to the woods through a valley near Diamond Hill [Diamond Head], 'named by myself Wilkinson's [Manoa valley, O'ahu], from its being the place where the unfortunate man of this name [John Wilkinson, settler at Hawaii, who travelled on HMS Blonde], who came out with us from England in the suite of the Sandwich Island people, with the flattering prospect of improving the state of agriculture throughout these islands, but alas! he found out too soon after landing on their shores, that he had to deal with ignorant and unfeeling masters, to what intent he had come upon for their good, and that, instead of employing him to improve their farms with a liberal salary, as he at first expected, they have only given him a piece of wasteland in this valley to cultivate for himself without any security of being his for no longer period than during their own pleasure'
Hearing from 'some foreigners, whom he had at work' clearing the grounds for planting sugar cane that Wilkinson was lying ill in an old tent ('having yet no hut built'). Finding 'the miserable object (for he was no other), stretched out on a purser's mattress' suffering from diarrhoea, resembling 'a perfect skeleton & the picture of death'. McRae suggesting to the crying man that he ask George Anson Byron to take him back to England, but Wilkinson declining the offer, resolved not to return to England, preferring to die where he was. The farm situated near the head of the valley, ending 'in a kind of amphitheatre overhung by high volcanic ridges on each side', covered with candlenut (Aleurites) and other trees, the damp location liable to 'make him to be always subject to his present complaint'
Seeing plenty of turmeric, ginger ('met with in abundance everywhere on coming to the woods within half a mile, but afterwards is lost on getting some miles farther. The roots are generally bitter, & have not much the taste of ginger that is cultivated'), ava [kava] and a species of Canna growing among the grass in the valley. Seeing four new species of Metrosideros in the woods, and Euginea malaccensis [Syzygium malaccense] by a small river, 'forming a wood of themselves'. On the return journey at 5pm seeing 'several hundreds of the natives' preparing ground for William Pitt to plant sweet potatoes, 'by pulling up the grass with their hands, & others using short, pointed sticks to loosen the ground ready for planting. They are yet unacquainted with any other description of tools used by us to facilitate labour'. Temperature 70°-83°
(25 May 1825) A fine day. Arranging specimens and seeds. Two of 'the late Tamahamaah's [Kamehameha I] queens (Kahumana [Ka'ahumanu] & Pio [Lydia Namahana Kekuaipi'ia, also known as Namahana Piia, governor of O'ahu, wife of Kamehameha I and sister of Ka'ahumanu])' visiting on their way to bathe at a nearby fishpond: 'both their majesties, on coming up to the door in a cart drawn by several natives, was without caring tilted out (just the same as rubbish), being unable of themselves to get out in any other way from their enormous size. They were both dressed in black Canton crapes [crepe] made in European fashion, & had on their heads old crasse [coarse] straw bonnets, but without stocking on their feet, where they had only old slippers'. The queens asked ('without any ceremony') to be given the drawings of plants shown to them by Mr Forder, or 'something else' instead. On leaving, the queens returned to their cart, which had remained tilted up: '[they] laid hold of the front part, standing up together behind, & in this manner the box was raised up with them, with their faces downwards, & their legs (nearly the size of a man's body) hanging over the hind part of the cart, which was too short for their length'. Temperature 74°-87°
(26 May 1825) Light rain showers in the morning. Setting off between 4am and 5am for the valley near Diamond Hill [Diamond Head] to find sanderswood [sandalwood], 'which has bestowed so much wealth on its owner, & caused greatly the neglect of cultivation throughout these islands since its discovery, owing to the natives being taken away from their homes for weeks together many miles to procure this article of trade'. Finding himself at dusk on the other side of the island. Asking to stay for the night at a hut, but finding that 'they were all so crowded with natives, & otherwise filthy with hogs & dogs inside, that to remain for the night would be very uncomfortable'. Reluctantly returning the 10-mile journey
Seeing many new plants in the woods, including ferns and Metrosideros ('the latter formed the greatest number of the largest trees I had seen, excepting the Acacia, whom the natives' canoes are made from'). Seeing only 'middling sized' sanderswood, it being too early in the season for flowering. Seeing large banana trees growing in the ravines with plenty of fruit, 'which the natives with me cut & roasted, one of which I tasted had a bitter taste, but by no means unpalatable', the wild banana being the main source of food for those cutting the sanderswood, '& making their canoes light enough for them to be able to drag them home to their huts, which is often the work of several days'. The fire for roasting the bananas being lit by rubbing together two dry sticks for about a minute
Returning home at 9pm after travelling for several miles 'in the dark, over lava, tarro [taro], ponds & ditches'. Temperature 72°-87°
(27 May 1825) A fine day with showers in the morning. Arranging specimens and seeds and skinning birds until late in the afternoon. Being told that the ship would sail in a few days to the island of Owhyee [Hawai'i Island]. Going to the town to ask his lordship [George Anson Byron] whether he intended to return to O'ahu, 'as it would be necessary, should he not return, to have all my plant boxes on board', but not receiving a certain response
Byron introducing McRae to Mr Young [John Young], 'lately arrived from Owhyee, & whose name, with that of his companion Davis [Isaac Davis; both Young and Davis, advisors and interpreters to Kamehameha I, had arrived on the island in 1790, after being captured following what is known as the Olowalu Massacre], have for a long time been distinguished in the history of these islands, [but] is now fast sinking under the infirmities of old age'. Having seen Davis' tomb earlier 'in the buring [burial] place of a few Europeans underneath a grove of coconut trees', inscribed with 'The remains of Mr Isaac Davis, who died at this island, April 1810, aged 52 years'. Davis' lands on the different islands, given to him by Tamahamaah [Kamehameha I] 'for his faithful services', had been passed onto his wife and three daughters, but lately 'several have been taken from them by some of the covetous chiefs now in power, much to their discredit'
Byron and several of the ship's officers meeting in the evening at the young king's [Kauikeaouli, Kamehameha III] hut, with a performance of the 'magic lantern [image projector]', for the amusement of the king and his sister [Nahienaena], who, however, did not attend, because of 'the religious fanaticism of the American methodists [...] These missionaries, many of them who are but illiterate mechanics, possess what they please over the credulity of the natives, & have already carried their system of religion too far ever to be upholded [upheld]'. Temperature 75°-85°
(28 May 1825) A fine morning. Meeting Richard Charlton at 6am at William Pitt's hut to supervise the transplanting of the plants from England. Finding to his surprise that one of the plant boxes had already been planted, 'in which I had several orchideas from St Catherin's [Santa Catarina Island, Brazil] doing well, although my orchideas intended for Mr Lindley [John Lindley, assistant secretary of the Horticultural Society of London] was now partly destroyed. Yet my feelings at the moment were nothing compared to that of seeing them tear up my others by the stems, as a gardener would cabbage stumps to be thrown away on a dung heap'. Charlton not having arrived yet, McRae asking Pitt to 'order the natives to give up doing anything to the plants', but Pitt laughing at him. Finding on his return with Charlton that Pitt had received assistance from 'the well-known Spaniard (Marin [Francisco de Paula Marin]), mentioned in the history of these islands, particularly by the celebrated navigator Kotzbue [Otto von Kotzebue, German-Russian officer and navigator in the Imperial Russian Navy, who explored the Pacific between 1815 and 1826], in whom the government put but too much confidence in, so favourable to his own interest, generally at their expense. This self-conceited Spaniard kept on pulling up the plants by their stems in my presence, then giving them afterwards to the natives, with their fibres deprived of earth, for them to plant as they choosed [chose], without considering any distance or regularity for them to grow upwards with sufficient room afterwards'. Marin arguing that the plants would grow well and not allowing McRae to plant them. Charlton taking McRae to one side to suggest that he 'would better leave this fellow himself to do with the plants as he thought proper'. McRae consenting if Charlton would explain to any visitors
[Here the journal ends mid-sentence at the foot of the page. For the next part bound in the same volume, 28 May-5 Oct 1825 (pages 377-609), see RHS/Col/6/1/6].
Extent - 178 pages
Repository - Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library
Copyright - Royal Horticultural Society
Credit Line - RHS Lindley Collections
Usage terms - Non-commercial use with attribution permitted (CC BY-NC 4.0)