Pages 19-195 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 1

Title

Pages 19-195 of James McRae's journal and papers: James McRae's journal, part 1

Record type

Archive

Original Reference

RHS/Col/6/1/4

Date

8 Sep 1824-27 Feb 1825

Scope & content

Pages 19-195, entitled 'Journal part first': Narrative of James McRae's journey, describing the voyage on HMS Blonde from England to Valparaiso [Chile], stopping at Madeira [Portugal] and Rio de Janeiro [Brazil] and sailing round Cape Horn [Chile]

This item is bound in the volume comprising journal and papers of James McRae. This is the first of five parts of McRae's journal. All five were subsequently bound together in the same volume. For descriptions of the subsequent parts of the journal, 27 Feb 1825-15 Mar 1826, see RHS/Col/6/1/5-8

Written on rectos only in McRae's hand. Occasional corrections in pencil in McRae's hand

Summary of contents:

(8 Sep 1824) Tuesday. Saying goodbye to Mr Sabine [Joseph Sabine, secretary of the Horticultural Society of London], taking a coach from Charing Cross to Greenwich and walking to Woolwich. Meeting Mr Turner [John Turner, assistant secretary of the Horticultural Society] returning to London. Boarding HMS Blonde at 2pm

(9 Sep 1824) Mr Ball [Thomas Ball, first lieutenant on HMS Blonde] enquiring what McRae thought of his messmate: 'I made answer I had no fault to find with him yet', being convinced his companion was 'a good man', having come recommended by the master. Ball informing him that a single cabin would not be available until Portsmouth and promising to move McRae's plants to a more suitable location, and to 'do his best to make me comfortable'. Sailing at 2pm. Anchoring at Greenhithe at 4pm

(10 Sep 1824) 'Two lighters alongside in the morning with ordinance [ordnance] stores, such as guns, gun carriages, powder & shot, small arms etc'. Going on shore at 10am 'to be out of the way', but finding the place 'dull' and returning on board for dinner

(11 Sep 1824) Everyone busy setting up gun carriages. Going on shore and walking several miles via Gravesend. Returning in the evening

(12 Sep 1824) Wet and rainy, but clearing up later. Everyone busily employed, despite it being Sunday. Going on shore after dinner and walking to Northfleet. Returning in the evening

(13 Sep 1824) A wet day. 'All hands busy as usual at the guns, fitting locks etc'. 'Spoke again about the plants, but nothing done'. Going on shore to enquire about a promised box of seeds

(14 Sep 1824) More midshipmen coming on board with their luggage. Fine weather. Going on shore. Waiting in vain for the captain [George Anson Byron, captain of HMS Blonde] to board the ship

(15 Sep 1824) The captain and 'his lady [Elizabeth Mary Chandos-Pole Byron], with several of their friends' visiting the ship at 11am. The captain ordering McRae's luggage to be put in the bread-room, and the boxes of plants on the quarter deck, 'but as to myself, must be contented with a hammock, for want of being able to spare me no better accommodation', with space for working in the steward's cabin. 'On his coming to upwards of a dozen casks filled with different kinds of agricultural seeds belonging to the Sandwich Island [Hawaii, United States of America] people, he got angry & wanted to know if they were mine'. Byron asking 'if I thought they had been recommended by the HS [Horticultural Society]. I thought not, then it must be that Reeves' [?John Reeves, naturalist and tea inspector in China, fellow of the Horticultural Society] doings'. McRae intending to send the boxes on shore in Portsmouth

(16 Sep 1824) The captain asking whether McRae was happy with the location for his plants. McRae feeling satisfied at being able to attend to the plants himself without having to ask assistance from anyone else. 'While repairing the boxes this forenoon, someone of the sailors stole a ball of twine from me, which I tried to recover by offering them rum, but of no use'

(17 Sep 1824) 'Foul' easterly wind: 'no prospect of getting away'. The captain 'with his lady & friends sailing about the river'. Going on shore until dusk

(18 Sep 1824) The ship unable to sail due to fog. The Royal Sovereign steamboat arriving from London at 10am to tow the ship to the Downs

(19 Sep 1824) Initial fog clearing enough by noon to sail: 'went as far as the head of sea-reach by 7, when the steamer left us'. Anchoring for the night. The captain's wife and friends intending to stay on board until Spithead

(20 Sep 1824) Cold and foggy. Sailing at 5am with a light breeze, and reaching a rate of 9 1/2 knots by 10am. Arriving at Deal at 1pm and sending the pilot on shore. A fine view of the French coast. Passing Dungeness at 5pm at the rate of 3 1/2 knots: 'wind & tide against us'. Passing Hastings ('well lighted up') at 8pm

The surgeon, Mr Davis [William Davis, surgeon on HMS Blonde] asking how to bring back sugarcanes: 'I readily told how I intended to bring some myself, which was by cutting the ripest canes into junks [chunks] & pitching both ends, then packing them up in a box among dry sand'

(21 Sep 1824) Cloudy with a strong breeze. Passing the Isle of Wight. Anchoring at 7pm off Bambridge Point in light rain. Several 'women & boys' seasick during the day

(22 Sep 1824) A fine morning. Sailing at 6am towards Spithead. Firing a salute of 17 guns to the port admiral Sir George Martin's [commander in chief at Portsmouth] flag. Anchoring at 8.30am. Seeing two ships anchored at Spithead. Receiving two boxes from the Horticultural Society at 12pm with seeds and papers, and two letters from the post office. The captain, his wife and friends, intending to remain on board until the ship left Spithead, visiting the shore at 1pm.

'Perused my instructions hastily [for the instructions given by the Horticultural Society to James McRae, 16 Sep 1824, see RHS/Col/6/1/1], & did not feel myself satisfied with the 4th & 20th articles. The 20th leaves me to the judgement of Lord Byron [George Anson Byron] to permit me to draw bills on the Society if he thinks proper, & the other binds me to impart what I know to the officers on board'

(23 Sep 1824) A fine morning with southerly winds. The sailors' wives ('about 30') being ordered off the ship at 10am

The captain returning on board at 1pm with Mr Hill [unidentified] and Mr Wilkinson [John Wilkinson], the latter intending to settle at Sandwich Islands [Hawaii]. The captain showing them around the ship and complaining about 'the great quantity of seeds & other things sent by them [Hill and Wilkinson] on board, & gave them to understand that it was my opinion the seeds would never answer [grow]'. Hill asking McRae in a 'rather unpleased manner' whether he thought the seeds would survive: 'I frankly told him that I thought they would not. His lordship [George Anson Byron] attacked me about them, as he had considered the HS to be the advisers in recommending them. Hill merely said that the Society did say they might try [to grow seeds at Hawaii]'

Receiving another letter from Mr Curtis [?John Curtis, entomologist and a fellow of the Horticultural Society of London] and a letter from Joseph Sabine, on his way to Portsmouth. Writing to John Turner about the 4th and 20th articles in his instructions and sending the letter by the evening post. 'All hands busy taking in stores etc'

(24 Sep 1824) A fine morning. Stores being brought in. Everyone on board being ordered to get dressed, the officers in full uniform, ready to muster at 12pm for the port admiral's inspection. The admiral arriving at 12.30pm with some naval officers, and shortly afterwards Sir W. Curtis [William Curtis, British sea biscuit manufacturer and politician] arriving 'with some ladies'. The captain and the first lieutenant showing them around the ship. The men being ordered in a line for inspection and a roll call: 'even myself was not exempted'

The captain returning on shore at 3pm. A fine afternoon. Going on shore to purchase 'a spade & water pot & some other articles'. Being 'much taken up with the place'. Some rain in the evening

(25 Sep 1824) Hazy, with a northerly wind. Most of the officers on shore, and 'the people employed stowing various articles away'

(26 Sep 1824) Cold and hazy, with a northerly wind. Sunday prayers read for the first time since leaving Woolwich, and the 'church time' announced at 10am by tolling the ship's bell. 'All hands below' hastening to the quarter deck, where seats were placed, with the sailors' wives on one side, 'the marines on the other, facing the preacher, & the sailors in the rear', and the captain and the officers near the pulpit. The reading being from the first book of Corinthians 1:21: 'it pleased God by the foolishness of preaching to save them that believe'. The captain and most of the officers going on shore

Temperature 43°-55°. Keeping the plants 'shut up' all day. Since boarding the ship, having given 'free circulation of air' to the three boxes of hardy fruit trees, '& only twice to the store ones, & that only for about an hour at a time, when the sun was strong upon them', lifting the tarpaulin slightly in the morning sun and covering them again in the afternoon

(27 Sep 1824) Rain followed by fine weather. The 'commissioners' coming on board at 10am to pay the crew their months' wages in advance. 'Also Jews with slops [clothes, in particular ready-made, cheap garments] of an inferior quality at a very dear rate, but which is more imposing upon the unfortunate sailor, who is obligated while about to leave his country to purchase these articles at any price, & is soon to receive counterfeit money, if he has any change to receive from these dishonest people'. 'The women' being ordered to go on shore, 'excepting six, who is to go the voyage in the ship'. Receiving a letter from John Turner. Temperature 45°-50°. The leaves of the plants beginning to fall off in the cold

(28 Sep 1824) A cold morning followed by a fine day. All 'the Sandwich people (in number eight)' coming on board the ship with Mr Bing [unidentified] and Mr Hill, the latter two returning on shore in the evening. William Curtis sailing several times around the ship. A lighter [barge] bringing the captain's sea stock for the journey in the evening: 'Governor Poki [high chief of the kingdom of Hawai'i, royal governor of the island of O'ahu, also known as Boki and Kama'ule'ule] laughed heartily when he saw the captain's cow slung over the ship's side into the hold'. One of the anchors weighed at dusk for the morning. Temperature 41°-47°

(29 Sep 1824) A fine morning. Sailing at 6am with HMS Niemen in a moderate breeze. Passing HM brig Chanticlare [Chanticleer] from the Mediterranean and HMS Thetis from the coast of Africa. Passing the Isle of Wight and sailing down the channel with a strong breeze. Cloudy. Losing sight of land at 5pm. Temperature 47°-62°

(30 Sep 1824) Fine but cloudy weather with a fresh south-westerly breeze. Parting company with HMS Niemen at 7am. Seeing two 'strange sails, a brig & a schooner' at 1pm to the west. The wind increasing. Passing Falmouth. Sailing towards Madeira [Portugal], 'the ship pitching very heavy, & shipping a great deal of water through the ports & sentinel holes', men bailing the water from the lower deck with buckets from the officers' cabins. Reefing the topsails at 6pm. Temperature 55°-62°. 'The plants shut up all day, owing to the bustle on deck'

(1 Oct 1824) Squally and breezy. Reefing the topsail at noon. Passing the Scilly Isles. The wind increasing to gale force. Reefing the topsail and furling the main sail: 'the ship at this time laboured so much, that I never experienced the like before'. Temperature 49°-65°

(2 Oct 1824) The south-westerly gale continuing during the night. Sailing towards the land, which 'on approaching proved to be the Lizard [Lizard Point, Cornwall]'. Anchoring in Falmouth Roads at 12pm. The captain and Lady Byron going on shore, 'her ladyship & infant [the Byrons had six children at this point; the youngest, Frederick Byron, was born in 1822] being very seasick for the last two days'. A fine afternoon. Temperature 56°-62°

(3 Oct 1824) A fine morning. Everyone busy drying their bedding. A light rain shower in the evening. Despite it being Sunday, the carpenters busy caulking the gun-ports and settles. Temperature 56°-62°. The plants seeming 'no worse' following the bad weather

(4 Oct 1824) A mild morning after a rainy night. The carpenters still busy 'caulking different parts of the ship'. Going on shore and passing through Milor churchyard [St Mylor church, Mylor, Cornwall], 'an ancient, small building' covered with ivy. Seeing fine specimens of Asplinium morainum [?Asplenium marinum] growing under hazel bushes in the shade of an old stone wall

Reaching the town of Falmouth via Flushing, crossing via ferry for a fee of a halfpenny. The town 'dull' and the country 'naked & barren'. 'Most of the women I saw here wore pattens [wooden clogs or overshoes worn to protect shoes from wet or muddy ground]. It is a common saying among the inhabitants that it rains eleven months out of twelve. Everything is much dearer than at Portsmouth, home-baked bread one shilling [for] a quarter loaf'

Rain showers throughout the day and constant rain in the evening. Temperature 59°-64°

(5 Oct 1824) A mild and hazy morning with light showers during the day. The crew employed taking in fresh water and washing the lower deck. Temperature 59°-64°

(6 Oct 1824) A rainy night and day. One of the sailors dying from apoplexy at 5am: 'at 8 I saw him sewed up in his hammock with no other covering excepting the check shirt, which he had on when he died. At about 3pm he was put into his coffin & sent on shore to be buried at four. What has induced me being so particular in giving this account is because he was the first I ever saw die at sea'. Temperature 59°-60°

(7 Oct 1824) Foggy and rainy. Sailing at 6pm, but mooring again due to the lack of wind. Temperature 58°-62°

(8 Oct 1824) A fine but cool morning. Sailing at 10am. Colliding with HMS Astrea, but without much damage caused to either ship. The ship running aground on the soft sandy shore, but being freed after about two hours. Sailing from Falmouth with northerly and north-westerly breezes. Passing the Lizard [Lizard Point, Cornwall] at 6pm, 30 miles north-west

McRae expecting 'every minute the total destruction of all the plants' during the 'confusion' of attempting to free the ship, but the plants suffering no damage other than 'being wetted with salt-water' and some of the lids on the boxes being damaged. Concluding that large boxes were much better for protecting plants than small, light boxes, which were more liable to be thrown overboard or moved, injuring the plants. Planning to replace the damaged lids and oyster shells [used instead of glass to admit light into the boxes] with plain boards: 'much better than trusting to lids so easily broken as these are'. Recommending that boxes intended for transporting plants during long journeys should be glazed if possible, as long as they also had strong shutters, similar to 'those mentioned by Mr Lindly [John Lindley, assistant secretary of the Horticultural Society of London]', received by the Society from Sir Stamford Raffles [Thomas Stamford Raffles, governor-general of British Bencoolen in Sumatra, founder of Singapore]. In the absence of shutters, boards were preferable, being a more secure option, as repairing glazing at sea was impossible, and tarpaulin was insufficient to protect plants in rough and cold weather. The 'store plants' had fared better than expected during the long delay in leaving England, and only the Sarcosephyllas esculentus [Sarcocephalus latifolius] appeared 'doubtful to live the voyage out'. Temperature 54°-60°

(9 Oct 1824) A fine morning with a north-westerly breeze, cloudy in the afternoon and rain in the evening. Temperature 57°-60°

(10 Oct 1824) Hazy and cold, with a strong northerly and north-westerly gale: 'the sea struck the ship on her starboard quarter, which stove in [damaged] one of her main deck gun-ports & filled the Sandwich Islanders' cabins full of water'. The topgallant [square-rigged sails or sails immediately above the topsail] striking the mast. The gales continuing all day and night, splitting the main topsail and 'furling' it: 'the weather now became so stormy that I never experienced the like before at sea. The gale of the first of October was but a trifle compared to this'. Temperature 58°-60°

(11 Oct 1824) Strong gales, rain and squalls, with the sea breaking over the ship, necessitating battening down the hatches after water penetrated the lower deck and damaged 'almost every clothes chest upon it, & I am sorry to say both mine got more than half filled'. The carpenters spending all night 'hammering everywhere'. Temperature 54°-55°

(12 Oct 1824) Cold, with strong northerly gales and rain continuing through the night, with water entering gun-ports on the main deck. Passing Cap Finester [Cape Finisterre, Spain]. A lark and a goldfinch getting caught in the rigging. Temperature 53°-55°

(13 Oct 1824) The weather becoming more favourable at 4am, with a light south-westerly breeze. The crew busy reefing the topgallant masts at 6am. Rolling up the tarpaulin, having nailed it to the boxes to protect the plants. The plants 'scarcely injured' but the lids being damaged, with 'hardly an oyster shell left whole & the frames besides so much shattered as to be of little farther use'. A hail shower at 11.30am. The wind ceasing at 12pm. The crew repairing and drying the damaged sails. One of the sailors falling overboard off the fore-chains: '[it] being calm, he was soon picked up again'. Latitude 45°4'N, longitude 11°55'W. Temperature 53°-55°

(14 Oct 1824) Fine weather with moderate northerly and north-westerly breezes, the ship 'now under topsails, royal & topgallant sails, & at times studding sails'. Two men being punished, 'one for theft, and the other for drunkenness. The first received 30 lashes, and the latter 12'

McRae examining his chests after dinner: 'found my linen wet through' and drying it on the deck, but deciding it was 'unfit to use till washed again at Madeira'. Another 'pretty, poor, unfortunate' goldfinch being caught in the rigging: '[it is] now confined in a lantern for a cage'. Temperature 54°-57°

(15 Oct 1824) A fine morning with favourable easterly and northerly breezes. The ship sailing at a rate of up to 10-12 knots. Constant heavy rain from 1pm, with strong breezes at 8pm. Both Sarcocephyllus esculentus [Sarcocephalus latifolius] plants dead. Temperature 54°-60°, the temperature suddenly rising at 10pm: '[it] is in my opinion owing to our getting during that time 44 miles farther to the southward'

(16 Oct 1824) Seeing a 'strange sail' at dawn. The weather fine and mild with a fresh north-easterly breeze. Progress 197 miles since the previous noon. Temperature 60°-64°

(17 Oct 1824) Fine weather with a fresh northerly breeze. 'This being Sunday, we again had preaching for the second time'. Asking the captain how long he intended to stay at Madeira, but the captain 'gave me to understand he was not certain'. The captain summoning McRae to his cabin and informing him that his instructions were 'at variance with his from Mr Croker [John Wilson Croker, secretary of the Admiralty], wherein he is given to understand that everything collected during the voyage is considered to be the property of the public'. The captain intending to write to Croker to clarify the matter, and McRae suggesting he write to Sabine as well. Temperature 65°-69°

(18 Oct 1824) A fine morning. Coming in sight of Porto Santo [Madeira, Portugal] and seeing the uninhabited islands of the Desertas [Madeira]. Anchoring off Funchal Bay [Madeira] at noon, the semi-circular bay presenting 'a most imposing appearance to the eye of a stranger'. The white-washed houses forming a 'pleasing contrast' to the barren, cloud-covered mountains resembling a 'natural amphitheatre'

Going on shore at 2pm to deliver a parcel to Mr Vetch [Henry Veitch, British consul in Madeira], but with no time for collecting specimens. The streets of the town 'narrow & dirty' with hard, flinty stones, the houses consisting of several stories but with 'a mean appearance. The lower story resembles a prison more than a dwelling', with iron grating and large doors. Entering the town from the only safe landing place to the west of the town. Visiting a 'small, neat' fruit and vegetable market, kept clean by means of a surrounding wall, with three rows of sheds in the centre and a place at one side for washing chestnuts in small earth pots. Chestnuts and grapes seemingly the most common items. Seeing other fruits and vegetables in season, including lemon, apple, guava, pumpkin ('three kinds') and garlic [here the journal includes a list of 6 more plants]. The prices seeming 'moderate', with oranges, apples and pears sold for a shilling for 20. Not seeing many grapes, being nearly out of season

Enquiring where Veitch lived, and being told he had left Madeira 'for Europe', but 'a Mr Potter' [unidentified] was acting as the vice consul. A guide showing McRae to his house. Meeting George Anson Byron and Potter together on the way: 'his lordship on seeing me enquired if I knew my way. I answered not very well. He then informed Mr Potter that I was the person sent out by the HS [Horticultural Society], and that he had no doubt but he (Mr Potter) would give me every assistance, which he indifferently promised'. Potter directing McRae to his house to deliver the parcel for Veitch. Walking around the town. Promising to visit Potter again in the morning. Finding himself far from the ship after nightfall. Returning to Potter's house to ask 'his Lordship's [Byron]' permission to remain on shore at the British Hotel. Temperature 68.5°-75°

(19 Oct 1824) Writing to Joseph Sabine. Visiting the consul at 8am to ask about [sending letters to] England, but receiving an uncertain response. Expecting to be allowed to see the local gardens, but being recommended only Henry Veitch's garden, 'where he said I would see everything worth seeing in the island'

A guide ('for which I had to pay afterwards') taking him to the garden, about five minutes' walk away and showing him in through a 'narrow, dirty passage, partly underneath an old building almost totally in ruins'. Seeing a low log building with a balcony in the middle of the garden, with grapes and pelargoniums growing on a trellis. The garden about 1/4 acre, 'miserably laid out & as ill kept in order'. Cactus grandiflora [Selenicereus grandiflorus] being the 'best specimen', with large flowers, growing by the walls. Seeing flowers and fruits including Fuchsia coccinea, 'a few shabby' orange trees, fig, Laurus persia [Persea americana] and Mammea americana [here the journal includes a list of 8 more plants]. Not judging it worthwhile to request for further assistance from the vice-consul

Asking the guide whether there were other gardens worth seeing. The guide recommending Mr Blackburn's [Henry Blackburn, merchant in Madeira] garden, about two miles from the town, but McRae being disappointed again. Seeing only a few grapes, oranges, lemons and guavas: 'I could not trust going to any more places recommended by my guide'

Filling a basket with wild plants 'wherever I went' and having to return to town sooner than intended, having filled his basket. Returning on board the ship to fetch his press, specimen boards and paper from his clothes chest. Spending the afternoon pressing the specimens. Preparing to go to the hills the following morning. Temperature 68°-75°

(20 Oct 1824) Rain during the night and in the morning. Rising at dawn to turn his specimens before breakfast. Setting off at 8am towards the church on the mount [Our Lady of the Mount Church] ('well worth seeing'), the main church at Madeira, built on top of a mountain overlooking the bay and Funchal [Madeira]. Being caught in torrential rain, and unable to see the hills through the fog and rain. Seeing chestnut trees growing everywhere, seemingly native, but no other trees. Returning to town at 4pm 'dripping wet'. Being told that the chestnut trees required grafting to produce fruit. Temperature 68.5°-77°

(21 Oct 1824) A fine day. After breakfast heading west along the sea shore 'in search of marine productions' and plants, but with 'poor success'. Returning to the town to procure grapes and figs 'for the good of the Sandwich Island [Hawaii] people, to take on board' in preparation for the ship's departure the following morning. Elizabeth Byron intending to return to England. The chiefs of the 'Sandwich people' staying at the consul's house and the other people at the British Hotel. McRae telling them to obtain grapes and figs for the journey, 'but they regarded what I said with indifference'. Heavy rain at dusk. Temperature 70°-77°

(22 Oct 1824) Cloudy and warm. Drawing a bill 'upon the Society' for £10: 'in favour of a Mr Blanche [unidentified], the exchange of which was about 25 per cent against me'. Writing a letter to Joseph Sabine. Wine supplies being brought to the ship. Weighing anchor and sailing at sunset. Finding fine specimens of Arundo donax ('probably a native') and seeing Arum esculentum [Colocasia esculenta] and sugar cane, the latter growing only in gardens and probably the 'old cultivated cane' from the West Indies. Temperature 68°-76°

(23 Oct 1824) Rain and lightning during the night, cloudy and warm in the morning. 'The ship being standing off sea since yesterday evening'. George Anson Byron and Elizabeth Byron coming on board at 7pm from HMS Dartmouth after dinner with Captain Maud [James Ashley Maude, captain of HMS Dartmouth]: 'we afterwards stood out to sea in company with her [HMS Dartmouth]'. Fresh breezes and cloudy at 8pm. The carpenter 'took the advantage of my being on shore, & stripped off the plant boxes every lid, & replaced them with two-inch elm boards, fitted very badly'. Temperature 68°-76°

(24 Oct 1824) Fine, cloudy weather with fresh, moderate breezes. Still accompanied by HMS Dartmouth. The chaplain [Rowland Bloxam, chaplain on HMS Blonde] observing in his sermon ('no doubt with a view of impressing upon the minds of the sailors the truth of the scriptures') that he had found marine shells on the highest point of Madeira, evidence that the island had been covered with water 'during the time Noah was floating about in his ark'. Temperature 72°-76°

(25 Oct 1824) Fine weather with a north-easterly wind. Two lieutenants from HMS Dartmouth coming on board HMS Blonde at 2pm to dine. The two ships having a race, which the Blonde won, being able to sail with 'considerable less sail set'. Temperature 74°-76°. Watering the store plants for the first time

(26 Oct 1824) Fine weather with light and moderate breezes. The master of HMS Dartmouth coming on board on a boat at 3pm and returning at 4pm. Parting company with the Dartmouth, which was sailing for 'the W India [West Indies] station'. Temperature 76°-78°

(27 Oct 1824) Fine weather with moderate breezes and a light rain shower in the evening. Seeing several flying fish. One of the carpenters becoming delirious from the heat, '& soon commenced throwing his working tools over board, & was in the act of going after them himself' before being stopped by one of the men. Temperature 74°-78°

(28 Oct 1824) Moderate north-easterly breezes and hot during the day. Several of the crew becoming ill with the heat. Crossing the Tropic of Cancer at midnight. Temperature 74°-82°

(29 Oct 1824) Fine weather with moderate, favourable breezes. Seeing swallows flying around the ship. Temperature 74.5°-78°

(31 Oct 1824) Fine weather with moderate breezes. Temperature 75°-82°

(1 Nov 1824) Fine weather with moderate breezes. Seeing a 'strange sail' at 2pm. Temperature 76°-81°

(2 Nov 1824) Fine weather with moderate breezes, and 'exceedingly warm'. One of the sailors 'taken ill with fits' from the heat, with several people required to hold him down. Since leaving Madeira, the heat on the lower deck, the place for sleeping and eating, becoming too much owing to lack of air circulation on the deck ('the most trying I ever experienced'). McRae falling ill and asking the captain for permission to move his hammock on the main deck, 'over the guns, which he readily agreed to in the most friendly manner. I am to enjoy this change tonight'. The temperature on the lower deck 85°-90°, and in the shade on the quarter deck 77°-82°

(3 Nov 1824) Fine weather with moderate, favourable breezes. Everyone on board being mustered on the quarter deck at 10am 'to hear the Articles of War [the Royal Navy regulations of conduct] read aloud by the captain, after which one of the men was punished with 18 strokes for fighting & disorderly conduct'. Temperature 79°-82°

(4 Nov 1824) Light winds and cloudy weather, lightning during the night. 'This day the Sandwich Island people eat [ate] at dinner raw fish (which are commonly called by the sailors bonito), & considered it a great treat. Their devouring fish in this manner without cooking was thought upon with disgust by those on board'. Seeing a large ship at 10pm, possibly an East Indiaman [East India Company ship]. Temperature 79°-82°. Watering the store plants in the evening

(5 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes in the morning, and squally, heavy rain, thunder and lightning at noon. Approaching the equinoctial line [Equator]. Exposing the hardy fruit trees to the rain after nearly two months without water: 'it may be further worth observation that the plants were still moist enough to go without water for weeks to come'. The ship becalmed in the afternoon. Temperature 78°-80°

(6 Nov 1824) Rainy and squally with lightning, and some intervals of fine weather. Sowing mustard, cress and radish among the plants in the boxes. Temperature 79°-82°

(7 Nov 1824) The weather variable with clouds, moderate breezes, heavy squalls, rain, fine weather and lightning. 'The salad sown yesterday morning are all up above ground'. Temperature 79°-82°

(8 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes, squalls and rain at noon, a fine afternoon and lightning after dusk. Temperature 80°-82°

(9 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes, light rain and lightning. Temperature 79.5°-82°

(10 Nov 1824) Fine weather. Temperature 76°-78.5°. Anona squamosa [Annona squamosa] looking like it might not survive the journey, but all other plants looking healthy

(11 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes. Temperature 76°-79.5°

(12 Nov 1824) Fine weather with moderate easterly and southerly breezes. The ship about to cross the Equator in the evening. The captain giving the crew a holiday, 'with double allowance of wine' and a band to play music. After breakfast the 'usual ceremony' of Neptune 'shaving & ducking those who crossed the line for the first time [McRae is referring to the line-crossing ceremony, a naval tradition performed on persons first crossing the Equator and often involving the figure of Neptune, the Roman god of sea]. The day passed in all kinds of mirth'. The 'magic lantern [optical device for projecting images on a screen or wall]' being performed in the evening, 'also with a view to surprise the Sandwich people'. Temperature 77°-78°. The salad sown on 7 Nov eaten at the captain's table: '[it] was much thought of'

(13 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes. Temperature 77°-78°

(14 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes. Temperature 78°-80°

(15 Nov 1824) Cloudy with strong breezes, squalls and heavy rain at noon, but the afternoon fine. Finishing drying specimens collected at Madeira. Temperature 77°-80°

(16 Nov 1824) Cloudy with fresh breezes. Temperature 75.5°-79°

(17 Nov 1824) Cloudy with moderate breezes, a rain shower at 10am and a fine afternoon. Temperature 77.5°-81.5°

(18 Nov 1824) Fine weather with moderate breezes. Seeing a 'strange sail ahead, which before dusk was discovered to be a brig'. Temperature 77°-81°

(19 Nov 1824) Fine weather with moderate north-easterly breezes. Exchanging signals with the brig at 10am and discovering it to be the Luisa packet [?Lady Louisa] from Falmouth, bound for Buenasayres [Buenos Aires, Argentina], having sailed five days before HMS Blonde. Reaching the ship at 11am and 'spoke to her to ascertain her longitude', hearing that the ship had endured very bad weather. The Blonde being given letters to take to Rio [Rio de Janeiro]. Sailing together until dusk. Temperature 77°-81°

(20 Nov 1824) Cloudy with northerly and north-westerly breezes, and hazy and rainy later. One of the sailors being flogged for theft: '36 lashes'. The sun 'vertical over us' at noon. Copying the journal and 'expense book' since 17 Nov. Approaching Cape Frio [Cabo Frio, Brazil]. Temperature 76.5°-79°

(21 Nov 1824) Misty and rainy with moderate north-westerly breezes, calming at 1pm and heavy rain at dusk. Catching a shark. Temperature 73°-75.5°

(22 Nov 1824) Heavy rain at night and in the morning. Temperature 73°-78°

(23 Nov 1824) A fine morning with moderate northerly and north-westerly breezes. Seeing a ship. Temperature 75°-78.5°

(24 Nov 1824) Cloudy with fresh breezes, becoming calm and hazy later. Land in sight from the masthead at 8am. The location according to calculations 43 miles from Cape Frio [Cabo Frio, Brazil], but 'the land said to be seen this morning proved to be a mistake'. Seeing several ships, one possibly HMS Spartiot [HMS Spartiate] with Admiral Sir George Eyre [flag-officer and rear admiral of HMS Spartiate]. Temperature 73°-78°

(25 Nov 1824) A fine morning, but no wind since the previous afternoon. The weather 'thick and hazy' with light rain later. Seeing five ships at dawn, including one assumed to be the Spartiate. Exchanging signals with the Spartiate, 'with the admiral on board, cruising off Cape Frio [Cabo Frio, Brazil]'. Land sighted about 12 miles away. George Anson Byron going on board the Spartiate at 1pm and returning at 6pm

One of the cabin boys 'met with a serious accident, his head having got jammed between the tiller rope & the deck above in the gun room'. Later the 'poor, unfortunate cabin boy breathed his last in great agony'

Temperature 73°-82.5°, and in the sun at noon 132.5°

(26 Nov 1824) The weather 'thick [and] hazy', with heavy rain. Seeing several ships, but being unable to enter the harbour safely due to the haze, despite favourable winds. The body of the dead boy being 'committed to the deep'. The temperature rising and falling suddenly, varying between 65° and 71°, the absence of sun keeping the temperature down

(27 Nov 1824) A 'thick, hazy, showery' morning with favourable winds. Seeing several ships at dawn. Coming in sight of the harbour of Rio [Rio de Janeiro]. Seeing Raza Island [?Ilha Rasa, Brazil] and its lighthouse at 10am, and other small, uninhabited islands. At noon sailing between the high conical hills in the harbour, 'pleasantly covered with green, low-growing shrubs', the scenery 'truly grand, beyond my abilities to describe'. Passing 'several strong batteries', one called Santo Cruize [Santa Cruz, Rio de Janeiro], with '300 pieces of cannon'. Anchoring at Rio de Janeiro harbour at 1pm. Seeing ships including HMS Aurora, a French battleship and various merchant vessels from different nations

Going on shore at 3pm to find Mr Heatherly [Alexander Heatherly, British vice-consul in Brazil], but being informed in his office that they would forward McRae's parcel to Heatherly's house in the country, and asking him to return on Monday. Returning on board the ship to prepare to go on shore with 'articles necessary for collecting'. Temperature 68°-72°

(28 Nov 1824) A fine day. Church service at 11am. A French ship and several merchant ships arriving. Temperature 68°-73°

(29 Nov 1824) A fine day. Going on shore at 10am. Meeting Alexander Heatherly at the office of the consul-general, Mr Chamberlaine [Henry Chamberlain, British consul-general in Brazil]. Being received in a friendly manner and offered assistance. Meeting Dr Dickson [John Dickson, British Royal Navy surgeon in Brazil], 'who, on reading over Mr Sabine's [Joseph Sabine] letter given him by me, felt himself much disappointed, & expressed himself in such a manner that the interview I had with him was very unpleasant'

Receiving information about the Russian vice consul [Piotr Kielchen, Russian vice consul in Brazil] and Sacramento [Leandro do Sacramento, Carmelite friar and botanist in Brazil]. Taking his parcel to Langsdorff's house [Grigori Langsdorff, also known as George Heinrich von Langsdorff, naturalist and consul-general of Russia in Brazil], and being received in a friendly manner with offers of assistance, despite not seeing Langsdorff himself

Visiting the Convent of Lappa [Lapa, Rio de Janeiro], a low, dark, two-storey building with apartments for the monks, the entrance ('always open to the public') a square lobby with images and one or two bare-headed monks in attendance. Enquiring after Sacramento: 'I was answered in Portuguese, which they soon perceived I did not understand. I not for the first time felt the loss of not knowing foreign languages. I at the moment imagined myself an inferior being, & at other times stupid for not being able to converse with them'. Being able to communicate sufficiently in Spanish to ascertain that Sacramento was at the Botanic Garden, about two leagues away

Visiting a small public garden next to the convent, with a soldier at the entrance gate, and the houses of Sacramento and the assistant gardeners. Seeing 'but little variety of plants' in the public garden, with most of the plants having been introduced, but everything kept 'in good order'. The sides planted with alternating mango and Gardenia genipa [Genipa americana] trees, 'which form a pleasant shade for evening walks to the inhabitants'. The garden walks crossing each other at oblique angles, with narrow patches of cultivation in between, fenced off with latticed bamboo reeds ('or rather probably a species of Olyra'), with red and blush-coloured China rose growing between them. Some of the mango trees bearing fruit despite the lateness of the season, 'but they appeared to be not of a good kind'. Seeing plants including Eugenia jambos [Syzygium jambos] ('their fruit seemed to be the same as those I had seen in the West Indies [McRae worked as an under-gardener in the Botanic Gardens at Saint Vincent before being employed by the Horticultural Society of London]'), Eugenia malaccensis [Syzygium malaccense], young Anona [Annona] trees, Cicca disticha [Phyllanthus acidus] and creeping willows [here the journal includes a list of 3 more plants]. Many of the plants also found in English gardens. The view from the garden to the harbour beautiful. Seeing opposite the gate two triangular pillars 15 feet high and a small fountain with two crocodile statues, 'coiled up as if watching the stream of water'

Finding his way ('not without some difficulty') to his lodgings on Rua Ovidor [Rua du Ouvidor, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] for dinner. Preparing for a journey to Alexander Heatherly's house in Botofogo [Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro] the following morning, with clean linen and specimen paper

(30 Nov 1824) A fine but 'exceedingly warm' day. Breakfasting with Alexander Heatherly at 9am at Botofogo [Botafogo], about three miles from the town. Heatherly not allowing McRae to continue to the Botanic Garden in the heat until the afternoon

One of Heatherly's clerks offering to accompany McRae as an interpreter. Not meeting Leandro do Sacramento, but being able to walk around the Botanic Garden, less busy than the public gardens in the town, despite being 'equally free to all persons'. Seeing plants including fine clove trees, Piper nigrum, Laurus cassia [Cinnamomum cassia] ('not the true cinnamon'), Laurus camphora [Cinnamomum camphora] ('but was told it never fruited, & that young plants were only raised by cuttings') and breadfruit [here the journal includes a list of approximately 13 more plants]. Being told Sacramento lived in the town and only visited the garden on Thursdays and Sundays

Deciding to return to town, rather than stay with Heatherly, hoping to meet Sacramento the following morning. Dining in town at 9pm, 'somewhat tired'. Temperature 82°-85°

(1 Dec 1824) A fine day: 'this being the anniversary of the emperor & empress [Pedro I and Maria Leopoldina], the day was observed as a strict holiday by ringing of church bells etc'. Going to the convent before breakfast, meeting one of the same monks he had met previously and being told Leandro do Sacramento was at home

Being taken to Sacramento's apartment through a long, dark passage, up the stairs and along another, 'more airy', passage. Finding Sacramento lying in a net hammock reading a book. Being requested to sit down to wait for Sacramento to read Joseph Sabine's letter to him. Observing his host: 'in his person he is tall, slender & about 6 feet high, in age to appearance from 40 to 45. Dressed in a friar's costume, & like them shaved on the crown of his head'. Looking at his books on botany and religion ('chiefly old publications'), and seeing a small glass case with collections of minerals, animals, birds and shells: 'both his little rooms have the appearance of not being brushed out for the last twelve months', with seeds & seed papers scattered among other things, suggesting him to be 'a person entirely devoted in his time, almost a slave, to science'. Sacramento addressing McRae in Portuguese, then in French and Spanish. McRae eager to obtain plants for the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii]. Sacramento promising McRae most of the plants on the list he had prepared on board the ship. Thanking Sacramento and leaving, 'much regretting it was not in my power to converse with him'

McRae returning to his lodgings to ask his landlord for recommendations of English carpenters, and employing one to make plant boxes by Saturday. The day being a 'great court or levee day' of the emperor and the empress, 'I was somewhat anxious to see the nobility and clergy go to court in state'. Arriving at the Palace Square too late, but seeing the court returning later: 'the black negro coach & footmen with their cocked hats & white fringes appeared strange figures in their slovenly, dirty liveries'. The emperor and empress mounting on horses at the head of a cavalry troop at Camp Santana [Campo de Santana, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil], and all other troops gathering to be received by the emperor, 'a well-proportioned made man, but rather dark complexion. The empress is rather masculine, somewhat bloted [?bloated] & plain in appearance. They were both richly dressed, breeched, booted & spurred much the same, she striding on her charger the same as him, on his right in front of the cavalry, having a loose mantle tied with a silver belt round her waist'. Being told on enquiring that it was not common for ladies to ride in that manner, 'with the exception of two others'

Seeing some of the officers from HMS Blonde and being invited to join them at an inn. Being recommended to see the churches lit up at night. Going to the Royal Chapel [the old cathedral, also known as Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte do Carmo da antiga Se], which was crowded and had candles around all the images. Noting that all the churches in Rio had bells, similar to Madeira, 'almost continually ringing night & day. They are here also fond of discharging rockets at dusk, & burning bonfires'

The houses mainly built of stone, 'dark & inconvenient inside, & as may be easily supposed, neither kept clean, in a country as this is, where labour is left entirely to negros'. Not seeing many houses with glass windows, 'only green, clumsy shutters formed of lattice-work'. Being surprised at the number of gold- and silversmiths and jewellers. Temperature 72°-76°

(2 Dec 1824) A fine day. Breakfasting with Alexander Heatherly and hearing that a ship would be sailing for England shortly. Writing to Joseph Sabine to inform him of his safe arrival. Collecting plants by Caminho de Clamento [?Rua Sao Clemente, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil], leading to the Botanic Gardens. Returning before dusk 'well satisfied'. Temperature 74°-79°

(3 Dec 1824) A fine day. Arranging specimens before breakfast. Being told that if he did not visit Henry Chamberlain soon, 'it was his intention to write home to Mr S. [Joseph Sabine], representing my conduct. On hearing such information to be pursued against me by a stranger whom I was perfectly aware I gave no such cause for complaints, I as may be imagined fell surprised, & of course went to him immediately', despite plans to go with his former guide to collect plants elsewhere

Arriving at Chamberlain's house at 9am and being told 'by a negro servant to seat myself on a carpenter's bench'. Waiting next to coaches, carriages and harnesses, with hens, turkeys and muscovy ducks walking around on the dirty floor: 'I mention this merely to give an idea how slovenly Englishmen of quality live at Rio'. Apologising for not visiting sooner, having been occupied by collecting plants 'useful to the Sandwich Island [Hawaii] chiefs': 'on hearing this he appeared satisfied' and promised to give McRae plants after breakfast. Going for a walk in the garden while waiting for Chamberlain to finish his breakfast. Seeing only 'a few introduced flowers', mainly roses, thriving better than expected in the climate. The area for growing flowers amounting to about a quarter of an acre, with a similar area for vegetables. Seeing vegetables including asparagrass [asparagus], artichoke, 'a few old' cabbages, 'four or five diseased fig trees' and a few healthy pineapple plants. Chamberlain returning after nearly two hours with a 'gigantic umbrella', using it as a walking stick: 'I was requested to favour him with all the names of his plants, as he wished to put their botanical names to them'. Being asked to return on Sunday morning to finish the task

Returning to Alexander Heatherly's house to meet 'the person there waiting for me to go with to collect'. Finding several plants. Temperature 73°-76°

(4 Dec 1824) A fine day. Arranging specimens in the morning. Collecting plants near the Botanic Garden. Returning to dine with Alexander Heatherly, 'well loaded with plants'. Temperature 74°-76°

(5 Dec 1824) Rain. Returning to town from Botofogo [Botafogo] in order to ask George Anson Byron for a bill of £25, 'to be drawn upon the HS [Horticultural Society]', but due to the rain, having to stay in his lodgings writing. Temperature 72°-74°

(6 Dec 1824) A hazy, cloudy morning. Going to La Gloria, George Anson Byron's residence before 8am, but missing Byron, who was on board the Aurora frigate attending the court martial 'to try the captain of the Tweed [Frederick Hunn, captain of the Tweed] & most of his officers under his command, Captain Prescott [Henry Prescott, captain of HMS Aurora] being the senior captain on the station [possibly referring to a dispute between Captain Frederick Hunn, accused of false imprisonment and illegal restraint, and G. Hannaford, master on HMS Tweed]'

Visiting Henry Chamberlain to finish naming his plants, having been unable to go on Sunday due to the rain. Leaving Chamberlain at 12pm with a promise to visit before leaving Rio [Rio de Janeiro], Chamberlain 'favouring me with one of his negro gardeners to carry me some plants'

Returning to his lodgings at 2pm and asking a Spanish-speaking fellow passenger to accompany him to the Botanic Garden. Staying at the house of the superintendent [Leandro do Sacramento] until dusk, and promising to return on 8 Dec to select plants. Temperature 74°-75°

(7 Dec 1824) A fine morning. Going to George Anson Byron's house before 8am to obtain his signature. Visiting Alexander Heatherly's office, 'who obligingly undertook to sell my bill for me'. Writing a 'letter of advice' to Joseph Sabine. Arranging specimens and drying damp papers. Temperature 75°-81°

(8 Dec 1824) A fine morning. Preparing to visit Leandro do Sacramento with his friend, along with 'a negro man whom I had hired for the day to carry my plants home'. Arriving at the Botanic Garden before 11am and finding the superintendent [Sacramento] 'resting himself at full length in his netting hammock', but rising immediately on their arrival and offering them bread, cheese and other refreshments

Seeing a large species of Canna, and being told it was 'no other than iridiflora [Canna iridiflora]. This rather surprised me on account of its scarcity in England till lately'. Asking Sacramento to send some seeds or flowers to the Society. Enquiring after the names of several plants, but Sacramento, acting cautiously, would only 'agree with me as to their genera'. Sacramento describing the ruined state of the garden when he took charge of it, with no regular naming practices: 'in its present state, what little is cultivated does him credit, considering his having no workmen but negros, whom he freely expressed could not place confidence in them beyond his own sight. I learned from him that the number of these allowed him from the government was fifteen, which were not enough to do the gardens under his direction justice'

Sacramento saying his tea plants were even better than those imported from China, using them for tea 'in their green state', and he intended to write an account of the methods of cultivation and to send it to the Society for publication. Despite tea being widely cultivated, the government 'has neither taken interest, or encouraged to derive any benefits from it'. Other cultivated plants including clove, nutmeg ('[along with clove] introduced from Cayenne [French Guiana] […] about fifteen years ago'), cinnamon ('there are three varieties, neither of them the true kind'), Piper nigrum ('bears freely, but is little cultivated'), Piper betle and Arecha catechu [Areca catechu] ('so much made use of in the east, has not yet been introduced in the Brazils [Brazil]'). Wanting to know whether the nutmeg bore male and female flowers on one tree, or separately: '[I] received as his opinion that they bore the former, which before I always understood differently'. Asking about 'an old pest (Cyprus festivus [Cyperus exaltatus]), whom I saw overrun his garden', being familiar with it from the sugar plantations in the West Indies. The plant being considered native to Brazil, growing in the interior as well as in Rio [Rio de Janeiro], whereas in the West Indies it was assumed to have easterly origins. Sacramento promising that should the Society send a collector to the Brazils, he would look after the collections until 'a seasonable opportunity offered for sending them home'

Sacramento speaking of Grigori Langsdorff 'in the highest terms as being an intimate friend. Dr Sellow [Friedrich Sellow, German botanist and naturalist in Brazil] he seemed not inclined to say nothing about. At the time when I mentioned a person being sent out, it forcibly struck me that he wished such a person himself, as he had oftentimes complained he had no one under him, whom he could place confidence beyond his sight. It would therefore in my opinion be advisable to try him on the subject. The Society would, by sending out a person who knew something of either French or Portuguese, derive much information […] I sincerely lamented, when I first went in the woods to collect, on seeing so many different fine flowering plants, that it had not been my lot to have spent my time here for the HS, instead of the many years wasted to so little advantage in the West Indies'

Seeing George Anson Byron and Elizabeth Byron at the Botanic Gardens with a party of about 30 people, including several officers: 'my friend & myself was kindly invited by his lordship to sit down & partake of what refreshments they were doing themselves, in the veranda of a small country house' belonging to the emperor. Being introduced to the 'celebrated' Mrs Gream [Maria Graham, later known as Maria Calcott, British author and illustrator], who had written a history of the Brazils: 'I found her ready to communicate me every information about plants, [in] which she considered herself no small proficient'. She had collected 25 kinds of ferns for Dr Hooker [William Jackson Hooker, professor of botany at the University of Glasgow and director of the Glasgow Botanic Gardens] ('whom she was in intimate correspondence with'), inviting McRae to see them and breakfast with her the following morning. McRae declining, having promised to meet the superintendent of the Public Gardens the next day

Returning to town with his friend at dusk, leaving the party at the Botanic Gardens. Arriving at Rua Ovidor [Rua du Ouvidor, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] at 8pm in a light rain. Temperature 74°-79°

(9 Dec 1824) A fine day. Arranging specimens. Going with his friend to the Public Garden de Lappa [Lapa, Rio de Janeiro] at 10am to meet Leandro do Sacramento, having ordered the carpenter to send the plant box. Sacramento busy with his assistant collecting more plants for McRae, having filled McRae's box with soil before their arrival. Sacramento being so helpful that 'the more I got acquainted [with him], the more I regretted to have to part with him so soon'

After packing all the plants ('more plants than could grow well with justice to each other'), being shown around the garden. Sacramento saying that the large mango trees were about 53 years old but 'had been in the Brazils [Brazil] time immemorial', and that all the trees bore both good and bad fruit: 'I thought this so strange as it differed so much from my own knowledge to the contrary'. McRae suggesting that Sacramento write to Joseph Sabine about his observations on the mangos. Gardenia genipa [Genipa americana] seldom eaten, and another variety of the plant 'equally useless'. Seeing many orchids growing in a shady spot, Sacramento promising to send specimens to the Society along with the other plants. Finding that many of the plants he pointed out had been sent [to England] via John Dickson, 'which in my opinion had never been forwarded, as that gentleman, with other grievances freely spoken, on my first interview with him said that he had been at great expense getting boxes made & filling [them] with plants', but having failed to persuade any ships to take them, the plants had now been with him for so long 'as not to bear removing'

Promising to elaborate on his observations later, 'it being now after twelve o'clock'. McRae telling Sacramento about 'the liberality which the HS [Horticultural Society] acted upon to all persons connected with them as correspondents, whether they were members or not', and receiving a promise to have a box of seeds ready on 13 Dec to send to Sabine on the Aurora. 'We then shook hands at parting, both lamenting we did not understand each other's sentiments better', promising to bring some sugar cane if they stopped at Rio on the return journey. 'It appears his applications for plants & dried specimens are so numerous, both from public & private individuals in Europe, that from his having no person to depend upon to assist him with the gardens he has now on his hands [more] than he can manage'. Suggesting Sacramento send things in the future via Alexander Heatherly, rather than Dickson: 'he informed me that it was his misfortune to know English captains of ships himself'. Suggesting the Society make arrangements for captains to obtain plants from Sacramento on passing through Rio to ensure the plants would be sent to England

Spending the rest of the day arranging and drying specimens and writing. Temperature 74°-78°

(10 Dec 1824) A fine day. Setting off to have breakfast with Maria Graham, 'accompanied by a negroman to carry my specimen papers'. After travelling for three miles in the direction he was told Graham lived, asking passers-by and being told ''encima, senor' (higher up, sir)'. Stopping at every house 'which had any respectable appearance' to ask after her. Finding a mistress of one house to be 'a young, little English woman, very obliging in her manner', telling him that he had come too far and guessing McRae's profession from the specimen box, saying that her husband, 'although a German, was a good botanist'. Seeing several newly grafted apple trees covered in packing canvas and young mango trees: 'on enquiring if they united freely, I was told they did, & was soon shown those which had taken last year' and learning when to harvest the fruit. Receiving several new ferns and other plants ('some of which I have preserved in spirits')

Returning to town, hoping to find Graham on his way back: 'in this I was again disappointed from not knowing the Portuguese language'. Arriving at his lodgings at 5pm, tired and hungry, 'not having tasted food all day, which I regarded but trifling compared with my disappointment in not finding this lady, who would now, by not calling on her, perhaps form no favourable opinion of me'. Temperature 75°-82°

(11 Dec 1824) A fine day. Arranging specimens before breakfast. Going about five miles along the stone aqueduct [Carioca Aqueduct, also known as Arcos da Lapa, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil] which supplied water to the town, with walls six feet thick and high walls: 'such an undertaking must have cost immense labour & expense', expecting it would last 'without repairs for centuries to come'. Admiring 'one of the finest views imaginable'. 'The negro with me' directing him to look at the emperor's country palace and the new city being built nearby. Seeing low, uncultivated conical hills and a wide expanse of water in Rio Harbour, situated at the foot of high mountains with their peaks above the clouds

Collecting plants, including a curious species of Dorstenia, a fine species of Besleria and a Baileira [?Clibadium] and several new ferns. Returning to town at 5pm, 'much satisfied with my day's journey'. Temperature 77°-85°

(12 Dec 1824) A fine day. Getting up at 5am to go to a fruit and vegetable market in town, where all the produce was 'supplied by the lower class, such as free blacks & negros etc', with Sunday being the best market day, 'on account of the country negros coming in with all kinds of fruits & vegetables'. The first and best market consisting of 'a few noisy negromen & women, everyone had each their little stock emptied out beside their basket in small lots to suit purchasers, on the dirty pavement opposite the emperor's private stables'. The fruits and vegetables including orange, sweet lime, banana, kidney bean and sweet potato [here the journal includes a list of approximately 18 more fruits and vegetables]

Livestock being sold near the beach, including pigs, poultry, fancy birds and monkeys, producing a 'stench […] for want of cleanliness'. Seeing 'heaps' of watermelons ('both the new & white-fleshed'), pumpkins and bundles of small, 'inferior' sugar cane for sale. The next market being 'much inferior' to the first in cleanliness and variety, adjoining a fish market consisting of a 'few open sheds' near the beach, the fish laid on the floor, including shark, skipjack, catfish, sardine and a species of sprat: 'sharks were sold with as good grace as salmon or cod fish would be in London, & in my opinion were equally dear with the fruits & vegetables'. Visiting two more vegetable markets on the way back, but not seeing anything new

Arranging specimens. After dinner, 'two gentlemen' from HMS Blonde asking McRae 'to accompany them to see the slave market on the north-west side of the town': 'our attention was first attracted at seeing from sixty to a hundred of these newly imported beings with shaved heads (few of which among them had yet attained the age of puberty) sitting on their hams in the street, with only a small piece of cotton napkin round their loins. We observed that the males were separated a little way from the females, forming two groups huddled together scarcely apart, & that nearly all was diseased with scurvy to the utmost degree, that they without hesitation slept on in our presence, scratching their naked bodies, which to appearance was nothing but skin & bones. Here we was accosted by several slave dealers (although Sunday) to purchase. From this place we proceeded farther on to see the different sale rooms, where we noticed persons bargaining & examining them naked, & if they did not altogether please them, more were singled out from the crowd & ordered to be stripped for the purchasers examination. Just as we were about to part much disgusted with what we had already seen, but by chance noticed several of them in a store opposite sitting round a tub, eating something by handfuls, which on coming to the door, I found to be mandioch [cassava] they were thus busy eating. A black overseer was stepping about among them with a dirty basket on his arm full of small pieces (perhaps an ounce) of jerk beef, which he tossed to each a piece seemingly careless, as if they were no other than dogs. I learned afterwards that since our arrival at Rio that five vessels had come in with slaves from the coast of Africa. Newly imported negros are sold for £30 to £40 sterling a head, & oftentimes for less. The streets of Rio is full of negros ready to be hired to do any job, & always found cunning enough to turn anything to their own advantage'

Temperature 80°-87°

(13 Dec 1824) A fine day. Arranging specimens and seeds, drying damp papers and writing. Heavy rain at dusk. Temperature 82°-85°

(14 Dec 1824) Cloudy with light rain. Seeing George Anson Byron and being told he would probably sail on 15 Dec with the Aurora: 'I then observed to him, if so was his intention, it would require me to that time to get my things ready for Mr Sabine [Joseph Sabine] to go by the Aurora. Upon hearing this he now again objected to my sending anything direct to the HS, otherwise than through Mr Croker [John Wilson Croker], which I promised to abide by his lordship's request'

In the afternoon 'got four negro men with slings' to carry a box of plants on board for the Sandwich Island chiefs. Writing until late. Rain in the evening. Temperature 82°-85°

(15 Dec 1824) A fine day. Finishing his letters and taking everything to Alexander Heatherly's office to be sent on board the Aurora. Taking his luggage on board HMS Blonde and returning to his lodgings to dine in the evening. Going to bed at 9pm 'much fatigued, but somewhat easy in my mind, thinking I had now sent everything required to go home', apart from duplicate specimens, which were not sufficiently dry to send. Temperature 78°-84°

(16 Dec 1824) A fine day. Going to Alexander Heatherly's office at 9am to ascertain the boxes were safely sent on board the Aurora: 'I am sorry to say that the stupid person whom they were intrusted to suffered the negro carrying them to decamp with both boxes. My mind at the moment may be guessed […] I considered the loss of my air plants but trifling compared with the box of seeds put up by Sacramento [Leandro do Sacramento]'. Heatherly ordering that the information 'upon the boxes should be immediately recited in the Rio newspapers'

Visiting the Russian vice-consul [Piotr Kielchen] to thank him for his 'civility'. Adding a note to Joseph Sabine's letter to Grigori Langsdorff, to be sent 500 miles in the interior where Langsdorff was collecting. Settling his accounts in the afternoon

Going on board the Blonde in the evening 'to remain for good'. Temperature 79°-83°. Examining his plant boxes: 'found all had been taken good care of during my stay on shore', although the sweet briar, which had looked ill previously, was dead. Elizabeth Byron travelling on the Aurora to England and her departure from the ship being 'near universally regretted by all'

(17 Dec 1824) A fine day. Writing two letters to Joseph Sabine. Going on shore at 3pm to leave them at Alexander Heatherly's office, but not being able to say goodbye to or thank Heatherly, who was at his country house. Purchasing 'various articles wanted for my mess'. Everyone on board busy taking up anchors in preparation for sailing in the morning. Temperature 78°-82°

(18 Dec 1824) A fine morning. Sailing at 8am with a light breeze, the admiral ordering all the boats 'from the ships in the squadron' to tow the Blonde out of the harbour. Anchoring at 11am owing to the tide being 'against us'. Sailing again between 2 and 3pm. The ship becalmed at 9pm. Anchoring off Raza Island [?Ilha Rasa, Brazil]. Lightning after dusk. Temperature 75°-79°

(19 Dec 1824) A fine, cloudy day with light winds. Sailing between 6 and 7am, but light winds hampering their progress. A church service being performed by the chaplain [Rowland Bloxam], 'which afforded me a quiet opportunity for shifting my specimens on the lower deck by candle light', finding many 'nearly gone' from dampness. Temperature 75°-80°

(20 Dec 1824) A fine day with light south-easterly winds. Four of the men 'slightly flogged for drunkenness & disobedience of orders'. Sailing around the island at 1pm. A fine north-easterly breeze at 6pm: 'made all sail'. Lightning at 8pm. Temperature 75°-84°

(21 Dec 1824) A fine day with light south-easterly winds. Seeing brig Charles ('Taylor master') from Buenesayres [Buenos Aires, Argentina], which had been sailing for 16 days. Lightning at dusk. Temperature 77°-80°

(22 Dec 1824) Rain with fresh breezes. McRae speaking to the captain about a place to keep his specimens. One of the gunroom officers ordering his servant to remove McRae's specimens from their place, and the captain promising to store them in his own cabin. 'This, with many other instances of kindness readily received from him since under his protection, gives me here pleasure to acknowledge them', despite 'labouring under more disadvantages' with no place to carry out his work arranging his increasing collection of specimens. Rain and lightning at dusk. Out of sight of land since the previous afternoon. Temperature 74°-78°

(23 Dec 1824) A fine, cloudy morning with fresh breezes. Coming in sight of an island four leagues away. 'At 7 tacked ship & hove in for the land. At 8 tacked ship & stood out to sea with shortened sail'. Moderate breezes and lightning at dusk. Temperature 74°-77°

(24 Dec 1824) A fine day with fresh south-westerly breezes. Sailing towards the land at dawn. Seeing several huts and a schooner anchored on the island of St Catherins [Santa Catarina Island, Brazil] at 6pm, and anchoring at 7pm. Temperature 73°-79°

(25 Dec 1824) A fine morning with moderate breezes. Sailing towards the island at 5am. Saluting the Brazilian fort at 8am with eleven guns, the salute being returned. 'This being Christmas day, all hands on board had double allowance of provisions & grog served out, & kept up as a holy day'. A church service performed and the sacrament given 'to those who thought themselves prepared to receive it', with the sailors 'fiddling & dancing' in the afternoon

Going on shore at 4pm with other people from the ship. Heavy rain, thunder and lightning forcing the party to take shelter in a canoe shed on the beach. The boat sent to take the party back at dusk. Finding several new specimens, including a species of Amaryllis. Returning on board 'drenching wet'. Temperature 74°-76°

(26 Dec 1824) A fine morning. A church service performed. Going on shore, but being caught in the rain again. Collecting plants, including flowering Andromeda, Statice and 'several pretty alpine plants'. Returning on board 'drenching wet'. Temperature 72°-76°

(27 Dec 1824) A fine, cool day. Arranging specimens before breakfast. Going on shore on the same side of the island as the previous day, the ship being anchored mid-way between the island of St Catherin's [Santa Catarina, Brazil] & the continent. Staying on shore until dusk collecting several new plants, in particular ferns ('more numerous than any part I ever before seen'). Temperature 68°-78°

(28 Dec 1824) A fine morning. Going on shore: 'now for the first time had a person with me from the ship to assist carrying my specimen papers etc'. Returning before dusk, but not finding the boat on the shore due to the high surf. Staying on shore 'in company with my old friend, mentioned at Rio [Rio de Janeiro], & two more midshipmen lads, at the hut of a poor person, who did everything to make us comfortable for the night'. Sleeping on mats spread on the floor. Temperature 73.5°-77.5°

(29 Dec 1824) A fine day. A boat from the ship coming to fetch the party. Returning on shore after breakfast, 'with a person to assist, accompanied by Mr Lumely [Lumley] (gunner), my messmate giving him my gun to shoot birds for me'. Collecting many new plants, including two kinds of Trichomanes and Acrosticum [Acrostichum]

Returning on board after dusk 'in the ship's launch with the washerwomen & their linen', the ship intending to sail the following day. Temperature 73.5°-77°

(30 Dec 1824) A fine day. Asking the first lieutenant before breakfast whether he had time to go on shore to collect, but being told the ship was to sail immediately. At 10am the first lieutenant and captain telling McRae he could go on shore. Going alone, there being no time to wait for anyone to join him. Seeing the captain, first lieutenant and surgeon in the evening, and being offered 'brandy & water out of his lordship's bottle'. Returning on board at dusk, 'satisfied with the extra day's collecting'. The master of an American schooner called the Empress of Newberry from Pernambuco [Brazil] coming on board, having been at sea for 14 days and enquiring after 'the proper channel to St Miguel [Florianopolis, Santa Catarina Island, Brazil]'. Temperature 75°-79°

(31 Dec 1824) A fine morning. Going on shore at 10am with two of the lieutenants and Mr Dampier, the draftsman [Robert Dampier, artist on HMS Blonde], the captain and the surgeon joining them shortly afterwards. Staying on shore until 6pm

Collecting more alpine plants, two kinds of Orchideae ('a yellow & a blue'), many lichens and several rushes and grasses. Being told this would be the last time on shore: 'I could not help regretting that my stay was not as many months, so great was the variety of plants, & mild temperature of climate. Making every allowance for the poverty & filthy huts the inhabitants lived in on both shores, is easily seen to be attributed to themselves, for want of cultivating, from indolence, the land attached to their huts'

Not having time to visit St Miguel, the capital of St Catherine [sic; Florianopolis, Santa Catarina Island; Sao Miguel Do Oeste in the state of Santa Catarina is not located on the island], nine miles from the anchoring place. Wishing to use the time for collecting instead of joining 'some of the gentlemen from the ship' who went to purchase livestock, fruit and vegetables, 'which I partly regretted afterwards on hearing the favourable account given it by them who went'. Being told there were about 6,000 people, and the houses were largely built of red, sundried bricks. The usual price for oranges brought to the ship for sale being '700 for a dollar', and pumpkins, eggs and poultry 'equally reasonable'. The island 'may yet truly be said to be in a state of nature, & a fair field for the botanist'

'To favour Mr Lindley [John Lindley]', planting several of his favourite orchids in the boxes on board to take to the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii] and then to England. Temperature 75°-78°

(1 Jan 1825) A fine morning. Sailing at 4am, the ship having finished taking on livestock and other supplies. Sailing out of the bay at 2pm, but making little progress in the contrary winds. Coming in sight of Wood Island [unidentified] at 7pm. Temperature 75°-78°

(2 Jan 1825) A fine morning with a south-easterly wind. Seeing Wood Island at dawn about six leagues away: 'at 6am tucked ship & stood in for the land' in the heavy rain. 'The usual' church service performed at 10am. Sailing at 12pm, the wind shifting to a fair north-easterly. The wind and rain increasing. Seeing a ship, probably bound for Bunasayres [Buenos Aires, Argentina]. Fresh breezes and cloudy at 8pm. Temperature 74°-78°

(3 Jan 1825) A hazy morning with strong south-easterly breezes and squalls. One of the sailors being punished at 11am with '24 lashes for attempting to leave the ship while at St Catherine's [Santa Catarina Island, Brazil]'. Replacing and repairing broken hinges on the plant boxes, in preparation for bad weather sailing around Cape Horne [Cape Horn, Chile]. Seeing a ship at 5pm, but losing sight of it at 8pm. Squally, but fair at dusk, with light rain during the day. Losing sight of land. Temperature 75°-76°

(4 Jan 1825) Moderate easterly and northerly breezes in the morning, with fine weather at noon and rainy after dusk. Passing an American merchant ship at 6am and losing sight of it at 8am. Progress since the previous day 200 miles. The crew reefing sails. Temperature 74°

(5 Jan 1825) Calm at dawn. Sailing at 6am with a moderate easterly wind. Temperature 73°-80°

(6 Jan 1825) A hazy morning with a moderate north-easterly wind and light rain showers during the day and in the evening. Finishing 'putting up' seeds collected from St Catherine's [Santa Catarina Island, Brazil]. The captain sending one of his servants at 9pm to inform McRae about a 'disagreeable smell' from his specimens, and asking them to be taken to his steward's store room for the night. Temperature 66.5°-74°

(7 Jan 1825) Strong breezes, squalls and rain at dawn, the easterly wind increasing: 'shortened sail. At 8 close reefed topsails & got down topgallant yards & masts, reefed the fore sail & set it, furled the main sail' to prepare for an approaching storm. Strong gales at 9am, shortening all the sails apart from the storm sail

The ship being struck by heavy sea. McRae, fastening the tarpaulin on the plant boxes, being thrown 'with great force against the other boxes to leeward. It had nearly cost me my life, from the manner I fell, my mouth having struck one of the boxes, that I expected no other but that my jaws were broken', but the surgeon saying that his upper front teeth were only loosened, and his gums and lips 'considerably cut'. Strong gales continuing all day and evening. Temperature 55°-59°

(8 Jan 1825) A fine day with fresh north-easterly breezes. Sailing at 6am. Going up the topgallant mast. Seeing several whales in the afternoon. Turning specimens from St Catherin [Santa Catarina Island] and packing specimens from Rio [Rio de Janeiro] away in a box 'for want of room'. Temperature 56°-57°

(9 Jan 1825) A fine morning with favourable north-westerly breezes: 'made all sail'. The winds increasing in the afternoon, and the topsails partly reefed, putting the ship 'under easy sail for the night'. Seeing several albatrosses and gulls during the day. Latitude 43°44'S and longitude 55°2'W 'according to the ship's reckoning'. Approaching Cape Horne [Cape Horn] in a favourable wind: 'all persons are preparing themselves with warm clothing'. Temperature 58°-62°

(10 Jan 1825) Hazy with strong north-westerly breezes. Asking the captain for more tarpaulin to cover the plants and nailing them fast until the ship had sailed round the Horne [Cape Horn]. Packing up other plants with hay in a box and stowing them away on the lower deck. 'The ship's log board had on it 239 miles since 2 o'clock yesterday at noon'. Temperature 52°-55°

(11 Jan 1825) A fine, bright but cold morning with a moderate north-westerly wind, shifting to south-westerly later. Soundings [measuring depth of the water] being taken at 75 fathoms. Temperature 52°-54°

(12 Jan 1825) Fine weather with moderate breezes and westerly and south-westerly winds. Later squally and the wind shifting to westerly and north-westerly. Temperature 52.5°-54°

(13 Jan 1825) A fine morning with fresh westerly and northerly breezes. Strong breezes at 8am. Topgallant yards and masts being taken down and put up again at 10am. Coming within 207 miles of Cape Horne [Cape Horn] at noon. Seeing a 'large mass' of seaweed, at first appearing to be a ship wreck. Lowering a boat and going to examine it, bringing some of the seaweed on board the ship and preserving specimens

The captain not stopping at the Falkland Islands, wanting to take advantage of the strong, favourable winds, despite McRae having hoped to have a chance to visit, 'if it was only for a few hours'. Fresh breezes and light rains at 5pm: 'reefed topsails'. Temperature 44°

(14 Jan 1825) A fine morning with moderate south-easterly breezes. Tacking the ship. Coming in sight of land at 10am about 10 leagues away. Squally and rainy. Coming in sight of Staten Island [Isla de los Estados, Argentina] at 7pm

Examining the box of store plants from England: 'found all not in the least hurt by the cold', apart from Anona muricata [Annona muricata] and another Annona ('not named in the list'), the leaves of which were drooping. Temperature 40.5°-44°

(15 Jan 1825) Hazy with light north-westerly breezes, the wind shifting to a more favourable north-easterly at 8am and the weather clearing. Seeing land at 11am to starboard. Moderate winds and light, misty rain at noon followed by squalls. The gallant sail being taken in at 4pm and the topsail 'close reefed'. Temperature 42°-45°

(16 Jan 1825) A hazy morning with a light north-easterly wind, calm with light rain at 10am and calm and cloudy at noon. Examining the box of store plants to ensure they were not hurt by the cold temperatures, but the plants appearing worse than on 14 Jan. The latitude 56°37'S, longitude 63°6'W according to 'dead reckoning'. Temperature 42°-45°

(17 Jan 1825) A calm and cloudy morning. A light north-westerly breeze at 9am: 'made all sail, the ship's company employed exercising the great guns & small arms'. A south-westerly wind in the evening, with several rain showers during the day. Temperature 44°-46°, with the same temperature in the box of store plants, 48°-49° in the steerage and 51°-52° in the cabin

(18 Jan 1825) A fine morning with a south-westerly wind, moderate and cloudy. Temperature 40°-43°, the temperature of the box of store plants 40° and 47° in the steerage

(19 Jan 1825) A fine morning. Sailing at dawn with light easterly and northerly winds. Seeing several porpoises 'of a curious description' in the afternoon, half black and half white, 'a circumstance I learned not to be common [commonly] known before but by few of the sailors on board'. The wind shifting to north-easterly. Temperature 39°-44° and the temperature of the box of store plants 42°

(20 Jan 1825) A fine morning with easterly and southerly winds, moderate and cloudy. Light rain later and the winds shifting to easterly and southerly, and later to south-westerly. Temperature 42°-47° and the temperature of the box of store plants 45.5°

(21 Jan 1825) A fine morning with variable winds and cloudy. Temperature 42°-45° and the temperature of the box of store plants 43°

(22 Jan 1825) Hazy, with light variable breezes and cloudy. 'At noon set studding sails, at 1 took in ditto'. Fresh breezes and squally with light rain. 'We now this day considered ourselves to have doubled the Cape [Cape Horn]'. Temperature 43°-45° and the temperature of the box of store plants 43°

(23 Jan 1825) Rain and fresh north-westerly breezes. The topsails reefed at 6pm, the wind shifting to north-westerly. Temperature 44°-45° and the temperature of the box of store plants 43.5°

(24 Jan 1825) One of the seamen's wives 'safely delivered of a fine male child as an addition to the crew' during the night. Hazy with moderate northerly and easterly breezes

One of the seamen falling ill with smallpox 'severely, & also on one of the Sandwich Islanders (Manaware) slightly, he having before been vaccinated in London with the rest of his countrymen. In consequence of [the] putrid distemper making its appearance, the captain ordered a strict examination to take place after dinner among the ship's company by the surgeon to ascertain who had taken it already before. Those who were found not to have it, was during the day afterwards inoculated with the cowpox [cowpox vaccination provided immunity to smallpox], even the babe new-born last night was inoculated'

McRae concerned that the ship might have to be quarantined at Valparaiso [Chile] due to the illness. Expecting to arrive at the port after about ten days, the distance being around 1,300 miles. Temperature 45°-46° and the temperature of the box of store plants 44°

(25 Jan 1825) Variable weather with moderate south-easterly and south-westerly winds, squalls and light rain. Two of the sailors being punished with '12 lashes each for drunkenness'. Temperature 51°-54° and the temperature of the box of store plants 52°-54.5°

(26 Jan 1825) Variable weather with moderate westerly and south-westerly winds, and some squalls with light rain showers. Seeing a ship, but losing sight of it in the evening due to the haze and rain. A male porpoise being harpooned and brought on deck, 'where all the pretended naturalists came soon after in attendance to examine the new-caught fish', 6 feet 2 inches long, weighing 202lbs, its body black and white, tail lead-coloured and fins 'white & fleshy'

Temperature 54°-55° and the temperature of the box of store plants 54.5°. Uncovering all the plant boxes, shut for the last 16 days and finding all the plants alive, and few injured by the cold beyond losing their leaves. Keeping them covered up in the rain. Intending to write a list of the plants most damaged by the cold. 'It will be observed that none of my hardy fruit trees has suffered in the least coming round the Cape [Cape Horn]'

(27 Jan 1825) A fine morning with moderate south-westerly breezes, light rain and squalls in the afternoon and moderate westerly and south-westerly winds in the evening. Airing the plants at noon for about two hours. Temperature 53°-56° and the temperature of the box of store plants 55°

(28 Jan 1825) A fine morning with 'light airs', and cloudy. Tacking the ship at 5pm. Fresh breezes, squally and light rain in the evening. Temperature 53°-55° and the temperature of the box of store plants 56°

(29 Jan 1825) A rainy day with light westerly and north-westerly winds. Tacking the ship at noon. The winds shifting to south-westerly in the evening: 'made all sail'. Temperature 53°-54° and the temperature of the box of store plants 53°

(30 Jan 1825) A fine morning with south-westerly wind, moderate and cloudy. Making a list of the plants 'most hurt by cold'. Temperature 54°-57° and the temperature of the box of store plants 58°

(31 Jan 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with a moderate north-westerly wind. The full moon 'greatly adds to the pleasantness of the night'. The captain enquiring of McRae 'in his usual pleasant way' if he wanted to go to Santiago [Chile], McRae responding that 'I was [anxious to go], as Mr Sabine [Joseph Sabine] in my instructions requests me to give him all the information I can respecting Valparaiso in particular'. McRae being invited to join a party of officers and the captain going on shore, 'as the more that was of us, the stronger we would be able to defend ourselves'. The smallpox being contained after the initial outbreak. Temperature 56°-60°

(1 Feb 1825) A fine, cloudy day with moderate, variable westerly and south-westerly winds: 'made all sail'. The men employed 'bending cables'. The captain and the officers amusing themselves by 'shooting with pistols & ball at an old hat'. Temperature 60.5°-64°

(2 Feb 1825) A fine, cloudy morning with fresh southerly and south-westerly winds. The sailors busy 'fiddling & dancing'. Finishing copying his journal. Temperature 61°-63°

(3 Feb 1825) A fine morning with a south-westerly wind, moderate and cloudy. Seeing a ship at 5.30am 'with standing sails set', but losing sight of it at 7am

Opening the box of air plants, finding 'all excepting two tillandsias quite fresh & green'. Changing the damp and mouldy hay in which the plants were packed and repacking them in fresh hay on 'both sides & bottom, for the purpose of ascertaining if by giving air holes in this way will prevent dampness during the voyage to England'. Temperature 59°-61°. Most of the plants on board having dropped their leaves since being exposed to daylight: 'what is more worthy of notice, the two cherry trees has [have] but yesterday for the first time since we left England made only two leaves, & the other buds are generally fast swelling'

(4 Feb 1825) A fine morning with a south-westerly wind. Coming in sight of Chile at 5am, and at 10am seeing the snow-topped, 'lofty' Andes [Chile]. Anchoring at Valparaiso at 11.30am and firing a salute of 15 guns. Seeing HMS Briton, its captain Sir Murrey Maxwell [Murray Maxwell, captain of HMS Briton], HMS Mersey, the Fly (a 'sloop of war'), a Chilean corvette and a French brig of war, which had recently 'captured a piratial [pirate] schooner'

Seeing Captain Charlton [Richard Charlton had been appointed British consul to the Sandwich Islands]. Going on shore at 2pm to Mr Barnard's [John James Barnard, merchant and chairman of the English Committee in Santiago] house, 'but being at dinner, he could say nothing to me till tomorrow afternoon'. Walking around the town and returning on board the ship at dusk. Temperature 59°-65°

(5 Feb 1825) A fine day. Going on shore before noon to see John James Barnard, 'but found on calling he had been gone some hours before for Santiago'. 'Sold a bill of £50'. Temperature 62.5°-70°

(6 Feb 1825) A fine day. Preparing 'the things to be sent home' by the Fly the following day. Writing two letters to Joseph Sabine: 'one to go overland, & the duplicate by the Fly'. The commandant of the garrison coming on board and being saluted with 15 guns. Temperature 62.5°-63°

(7 Feb 1825) A fine day. Packing up seeds and air plants from St Catherine [Santa Catarina Island], a copy of his journal from Rio [Rio de Janeiro] to Valparaiso and duplicate letters to send to England

Waiting for a boat for several hours to go on shore to leave the letters at the consul's office. The consul [Christopher Richard Nugent was the consul in Valparaiso, Chile] 'kindly offered to enclose one of my letters in his own letter bag', and promising assistance to McRae during his stay. The consul being 'perfectly acquainted with Captain Sabine [Edward Sabine, geophysicist, naturalist and astronomer, brother of Joseph Sabine, secretary of the Horticultural Society of London], that they both were school fellows together at Woolwich. From the friendly manner in which he spoke, I took the liberty of enquiring if he had any objection of my proposing him to Mr S. [Joseph Sabine] to be elected a corresponding member of the HS, to which he replied not in the least, but the duties of his office was so much that he was afraid he could be but of little service to them', but would be happy to assist in other ways. McRae asking after 'a person, the name of Cruckshanks [Alexander Cruckshanks, botanist in Chile], who I told him I was anxious to see'. The consul giving McRae his address and saying that 'he was the only person, who could give me information about the plants of the country, since Mr Miers [John Miers, botanist and merchant in Chile] was gone to Buenosayres [Buenos Aires, Argentina]'

Continuing the journey to Cruckshanks' house, about two miles away 'at the lower end of what is called the Almendral [Valparaiso] or the suburbs' of Valparaiso, the area low, sandy and flat, 'in a miserable state', ruined by an earthquake [in 1822], with low mud houses, 'built in a straggling manner, mostly inhabited by poor people'. Having some difficulty in finding Cruckshanks' house. Being 'kindly' received: '[he] readily answered any questions I put to him'. Finding him to be 'no favourable admirer to the disgusting manners & customs of the native Chileans, whom he described to be, most of them, an indolent, treacherous, bigoted race of people, who looked upon us heretics as inferior beings, worthy to be taken every advantage of'. Enquiring whether the European fruits, plentiful on the markets, had been produced from budded or grafted trees, or trees raised from seed, and being told that 'the natives were so indolent that almost everything which required cultivation was left to nature itself'. Cruckshanks speaking highly of the capital Santiago, with large, well-irrigated and productive plains of white [wheat] and barley ('oats is never cultivated in Chile')

Returning on board after dusk. Temperature 62°-66°

(8 Feb 1825) A fine day. Kapihe, 'admiral of the Sandwich Islands' [Naihekukui, admiral of the royal fleet of the kingdom of Hawai'i, also known as Naihe-Kukui Kapihe, Captain Jack and Jack the Pilot] dying at 6.20am 'from inflammation of the brain'

Going on shore at 10am to collect with a 'brooming party' to the north-west side of the harbour [brooming, or clearing a ship's hull, involved singeing it with burning reeds or furze]. Seeing only a few plants with 'any green appearance', including Sygnesia [Syngenesia] and Myrtaceae. Seeing great numbers of mules, driven 'by one person (a peon [farmworker or labourer, or a person subject to peonage, unfree labour]), to & from the port of Valparaiso, each mule carrying two leather trunks piled with fruits or vegetables for market, others firewood & suchlike articles from the country'. On their return journey the mules laden with empty trunks, 'giving a lift to poor travellers they chanced to overtake on the way on the same beast which they were on themselves, a common practice seen every day among the peons of carrying another behind them on the same mule, although at the same time they command perhaps fifty mules drove empty before them'

Returning on board at 5pm. Temperature 62°-69°

(9 Feb 1825) A fine day. The hills above the town covered in fog in the morning. The 'Sandwich admiral' being taken out to sea at 6am, '& sunk, sewed up in a hammock, the Spaniards not allowing heretics [non-Catholics] to be buried on shore'

Going on shore above the town at 10am to collect plants. Not seeing many new plants, apart from three kinds of Amaryllis, 'which I with difficulty got rooted out with my knife from at least a depth of eight inches, composed mostly of hard gravel'. Seeing two species of Lobelia, one growing 12 feet high ('probably tupa [Lobelia tupa]'), common in damp places, and a 'pretty, red' Coreopsis entwined with a species of bamboo ('the latter apparently a native of the country'). Returning on board at dusk. Temperature 63°-66°

(10 Feb 1825) A fine day. Going on shore to collect at the north-west end of the Almendral [Valparaiso]. Following a small rivulet for about two miles between steep hills. Seeing two kinds of Fuchsia, two 'pinkish red, shrubby Decandrias ('probably a Stereoxylon species') and two species of Antirrhinum ('a white & a purple'), along with other new plants. Rosemary ('likely chilensis [Lepechinia chamaedryoides]') and rue common, possibly a native plant

Going to the port to hire a boat to return on board the ship. 'I first dined a little before dusk, as well as the lad I had with me from the ship, at the Castle Inn, kept by an Irishman, who charges extravagantly for everything had in his house, especially London-bottled porter, which he has the conscience to demand one dollar a bottle'. Returning on board after dark. Temperature 63°-68°

(11 Feb 1825) A fine day. Finishing packing up things to be sent by the Fly to England. 'Busy among my specimens'. Temperature 63°-64°

(12 Feb 1825) A fine day. Writing two letters to Joseph Sabine, one to be sent by the consul's letter-bag, and the other by the Fly. The captain 'sent for me while busy below', to introduce McRae to Mr and Mrs Nugent [Christopher Richard Nugent and Catherine Elizabeth Nash Nugent] and the vice-consul Mr Rouse [Henry Rouse, vice-consul in Chile], both promising 'every assistance they could give', such as sending items to England or writing letters of introduction. Before leaving for dinner with the captain, Nugent inviting McRae to his house the following morning to ask his opinion about seeds he was intending to send by the Fly to Mr Canning [George Canning, British foreign secretary]. Temperature 61°-63°

(13 Feb 1825) A fine day. The purser, Mr Brown, 'died suddenly' at 6.30am, having been unwell for most of the journey

Going on shore at 9am to see the seeds of Christopher Richard Nugent: 'he now informed [me] that he had changed his mind in sending part of them to some person whom I have forgot his name, & would lay the blame to me for sending them to the Society in preference, having conscience since he saw me that probably the person who he had intended to send them to would most likely present them to the Society, therefore he thought he could not do better than present them himself'. Nugent promising to 'give Mr S. [Joseph Sabine] every information as to the success or assistance the person sent out to Chile might expect'. Nugent sending to George Canning by the Fly 130 specimens of silver ore ('to be given to some public body')

Returning on board the ship after dusk. Temperature 62°-64°

(14 Feb 1825) A fine day. The purser 'taken out to sea & sunk, sewed up in a hammock' at 7am

Going on shore at 10am to visit Alexander Cruckshanks. Staying with him most of the day 'for the purpose of getting every information respecting the present state of Chile'. Finding his knowledge of plants 'considerable, & his manners otherwise so obliging', and wishing to propose him to Joseph Sabine as a corresponding member, 'which he willingly gave me permission'

Seeing on the return journey several fine olive trees 'in full bearing', peaches, pears (50-100 feet high, 'in the highest state of vegetation, notwithstanding the age from their appearance'), apples and figs ('at least 20 feet high'). Being told on returning to the ship that 'all the sick' had been sent to the hospital on shore: 'among them was the poor, unfortunate carpenter brought from England by the Sandwich people'. Temperature 62°-65°

(15 Feb 1825) A fine day. Going on shore at 10am on the same boat with more sick people on their way to the hospital. Seeing the carpenter sent there the previous day, 'who was by this time scarcely like another human being, his eyes shut up & his whole body so much swollen to that degree that the joints of his arms & limbs could hardly be seen, the whole surface of his body one entire mass of putrid matter, yet still sensible to know the voice of the surgeon & mine'

Going to Alexander Cruckshanks' house to collect plants beside a small river nearby. Not seeing many new plants, apart from a 'fine' species of Blechnum, a white, flowering species of Stereoxylon and a blue Cytisus ('probably arborea [Cytisus arboreus], which Mr C. informed me the natives called coolen [also known as culen], & made much use of the leaves, frequently boiled to cure colds'). Being shown a species of Salvia ('not in flower, always made use of in the country as a substitute for common garden sage, which I was rather surprised to learn, he [had] not never seen in the country, & he thought was much wanted for cooking, in preference to the native wild one'). Most of the other 'pot herbs' already cultivated in all the gardens and mixed up with other native flowers, 'made up in nosegay, which the Chileans are particularly fond of. Nosegays are so common that every house have several of them stuck round their sitting apartments, & in almost every person's hands seen in the streets, which they often part with to strangers as tokens of friendship, but if rejected, is considered an unpardonable affront'

Being told the ship would sail the following morning, 'which I felt disappointing, as I had not got some articles of clothing which I stood much in need of, my others calculated sufficient for to do me the voyage before leaving England, being not fit to appear in decently on shore'. Cruckshanks showing McRae specimens, bulbs and seeds to be sent to Glasgow to Dr Hooker [William Jackson Hooker], and promising to grow plants for the Society for McRae's return journey. McRae being sorry to part from him so soon, 'reflecting within myself that I had not the power to divide my time suitable to my own mind, in consequence of which my journeys were limited, much against my own credit & the interest of my employers'. Temperature 63°-67°

(16 Feb 1825) A fine day. Receiving permission from the first lieutenant to go on shore to purchase the clothing he needed, the ship not intending to sail until the following morning. Richard Charlton intending to sail the following morning on another ship, 'on account of the smallpox being on board, which would prevent our going direct for the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii] for some time, for fear of carrying the infection, which might be attended with serious consequences, if once got introduced among the natives'

The 'blue peter [nautical signal flag]' hoisted, 'as a signal for all persons belonging to the Blonde to come on board'. Temperature 65°-72°

(17 Feb 1825) A fine day. Being told after breakfast that the captain was not intending sailing that day, but not being permitted to go on shore: 'I thought I could not be better employed than to write Mr Sabine [Joseph Sabine] another letter'. Hearing at dusk that the 'poor, unfortunate carpenter' had died in the afternoon, the news being received 'not without regrets'. Temperature 67°-70°

(18 Feb 1825) A fine day. Arranging specimens 'with difficulty, as no liberty would be granted me going on shore', but not wanting to miss the ship's departure: 'to a person on such a mission as I am, with, I may say, no accommodation on board ship, bound on a foreign station, where we at places put in for supplies, require to take on board eight or nine months' provisions & water, so that while in harbour, the bustle & confusion, noise etc is far more than at the White Horse Cellar in Piccadilly [a coaching inn in London]. Below in the steerage, where I eat my meal by day, & sleep intermixed with young gentlemen (some of which assume consequence from their alliance to noble families) by night, slung in hammocks, underneath which what stores cannot be stowed in the hold are kept for immediate use, for safety, in preference of stowing them where the sailors might chance to get at them'. Temperature 65°-71°

(19 Feb 1825) A fine morning with a light westerly wind. The ship finishing taking on supplies and water. Sailing at 10am in a light easterly breeze. Steering toward Juan Fernandez [Juan Fernandez Islands, Chile], 'where, it is rumoured on board, we intend to stay at for some days' to wait for the small pox infection to abate before returning to Valparaiso to take on board those recovering in the hospital: 'I must own I feel some pleasure to think of visiting the island so much thought of as being the place Robin Cruso (Selkirk) [Alexander Selkirk was a Scottish navy officer, who spent four years as a castaway in 1704-1709; his story is said to have inspired Daniel Defoe's 'Robinson Crusoe'] lived upon alone so many years'. Hoping to make a collection of dried specimens on the island

Not being sorry to leave Valparaiso, even if he was 'never to visit it again'. The town built in a semi-circular form at the foot of an 'abrupt rock', with narrow streets and several ravines ('quebradas'), 'inhabited chiefly by poor people', and, two miles further inland, the suburb of Almandral [Valparaiso]. The houses of 'the better sort of people' built of sun-dried bricks, and those of 'the lower class' built of white-washed mud. The streets 'are nearly all unpaved, narrow & filthy, & thinly frequented by the inhabitants in the daytime, but after dusk they are crowded till a late hour, the greater part of which compose the fair sex, neither of them any beauties, generally short & stout. The inhabitants of Valparaiso & its suburbs is computed to be about 15,000, consisting of two classes, the rich & the poor. Valparaiso is everything but what entitles it to receive a favourable description, & most likely the other parts of the coast we may touch at here before our return for England will be equally miserable'

The master's mate sent on board the cutter at 4pm 'as commander'. The Andes [Chile] appearing 'majestic', their tops covered with snow. Temperature 67°-69°

(20 Feb 1825) A fine morning with a fresh south-westerly breeze and cloudy. 'The cutter astern'. Water being bailed out 'by bucketfuls' from the lower deck and the officers' cabins, 'owing to the carpenters' neglect' prior to sailing. Strong breezes at 8pm. Temperature 62°-64°

(21 Feb 1825) A fine morning, with moderate south and south-westerly wind: 'the cutter astern. At 10 hove to & sent fresh beef on board the cutter'. Sailing with a south-easterly wind. Temperature 63°-68°

(22 Feb 1825) A fine morning with a moderate south-easterly wind, cloudy. 'At noon shortened sail, as it required us to wait for the cutter coming up'. Moderate breezes and fine weather in the evening. Temperature 63°-65°

(23 Feb 1825) A fine morning with a south-easterly wind, moderate and fine. The cutter in sight. Coming in sight of Chile again. One of the men being punished for desertion. Waiting off the port of Valparaiso. Signalling to the cutter. Moderate and cloudy in the evening. Temperature 63°-65°

(24 Feb 1825) Foggy, with a light south-easterly wind. Sailing towards the land. The seamen being paid their allowance money. Approaching the land, 'or what is called Angel Point [?Playa Ancha, Valparaiso]' at noon. Seeing a French squadron consisting of a frigate, a corvette and a schooner preparing to leave the port. George Anson Byron going on board the Briton at 2pm. 'Stood out to sea', with fresh southerly and south-easterly breezes. Temperature 60°-63°

(25 Feb 1825) A fine morning with a moderate south-easterly wind, and cloudy. Approaching the port in Valparaiso, but being refused permission to go on shore, 'as the ship is said not to come to anchor, but only waiting for the Briton, who is to accompany us to Callao [Lima, Peru]'. The captain's gig [boat] returning to say that 'his lordship [George Anson Byron] did not intend coming on board'. Standing out to sea. At dusk 'the Andes [Chile] fell from clouds, which afforded a pleasant view'. Fine weather with light winds in the evening. Temperature 60°-63°

(26 Feb 1825) A fine morning with gentle breezes from the shore. Approaching the harbour at noon. Sailing 'off & on'. Anchoring at 4pm. Calm and cloudy in the evening. Going on shore to the Castle Inn to purchase specimens of 'all kinds' of fruit brought in from the country to the market in Valparaiso. Temperature 59°-62°

(27 Feb 1825) A fine morning. Going to the market at 6am to buy 'some of all the kinds of fruit seen' and esculent vegetables, including three kinds of apple, nectarine, two kinds of potato ('the red & white, both of a long form with deep, hollow eyes'), onions ('very fine & large) and tomatoes [here the journal includes a list of 14 more fruits and vegetables]

[Here the journal ends mid-sentence at the foot of the page. For the next part of the journal bound in the same volume, 27 Feb-28 May 1825 (pages 197-375), see RHS/Col/6/1/5].

Extent

176 pages

Is part of

RHS archive: plant collector papers

Repository

Royal Horticultural Society Lindley Library

Copyright

Royal Horticultural Society

Credit Line

RHS Lindley Collections

Usage terms

Non-commercial use with attribution permitted (CC BY-NC 4.0)