Journals of John Forbes: Journal 4
Information
Title - Journals of John Forbes: Journal 4
Record type - Archive
Original Reference - RHS/Col/3/1/4
Date - 12 Sep-30 Nov 1822
Scope & content - John Forbes' travel journal, 12 Sep-30 Nov 1822, in South Africa and Mozambique. The back of the journal contains lists and notes
Overview of contents:
Page 1: List of astrological symbols for weekdays
Pages 2-4: Blank
Pages 5-63: Narrative of travel, 12 Sep-14 Oct 1822
Pages 64-66: Blank
Pages 67-115: Narrative of travel, 14 Oct-30 Nov 1822
Pages 116-118: Blank
Pages 119-120: 'Vocabulary of the Language Spoken by the Natives about English river, Delagoa, the Syllable to be pronounced as in English, the words being accented'
Page 121: Blank
Page 122: 'Thermometer at Observatory Eng River, Delagoa Bay, Sep 1822', 'Case of green glass jars, No 12'
Pages 123-125: Blank
Page 126: 'Vocabulary of the language spoken by the Natives about English river under King's Capel & Mataul'
Pages 127-128: 'Case No 11, Royal College of Surgeons, London (Containing Spirits of Wine)'
Page 129: Blank
Page 130: 'Bulbs Delagoa Bay'
Page 131: Blank
Page 132: Notes
Pages 133-134: Blank
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled 'Duplicate Journal. September 12 1822 to November 30 1822'. The spine is becoming detached from the binding. The binding is intact but weak. Pages are reasonably robust. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 31 (h) x 20 (w) cm
This journal appears to be Forbes' original journal, with his own pencil annotations. For another copy of the journal, see RHS/Col/3/1/5
The volume is written in Forbes' hand, on rectos only. The volume is annotated in pencil and in different inks by Forbes (annotations by Forbes unless otherwise indicated), with marginal and interlinear annotations, annotations on the blank verso pages, corrections and crossings out. The more substantial annotations have been included and identified in the description, whilst minor alterations of spelling or phrasing have not been noted
The journal contains headings with locations. Astrological symbols are used to signify weekdays. There are blank spaces left for plant names and reference numbers, some of which were subsequently filled in
The volume was reversed, with the back of the journal used for lists and notes
Original foliation is on upper-right hand corner of rectos (folios 1-9). The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Summary of contents:
(12 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor and sailing from Simon's Bay [South Africa] at dawn. Passing an Indiaman [East India Company ship], whose last stop had been Madeira [Portugal], carrying no letters for them. Seeing pintado birds (Procellaria capensis) [Cape petrel, Daption capense] ('our old companions') and albatrosses (Diomedea exulans). Passing Cape Hangclip [Cape Hangklip, South Africa], forming the entrance into False Bay [South Africa], together with the Cape of Good Hope [South Africa]. Passing Point Danger [Danger Point South Africa] and Cape L'Agullas [Cape Agulhas, South Africa] at sunset. The coast barren and uninhabited, with no landing places for boats. Leaving the Cockburn to follow ['follow' crossed out and replaced with 'proceed direct'] to Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay, Mozambique], intending to join it there. A fine breeze
(13 Sep 1822) Fine weather with a light breeze. Steering towards Algoa Bay [South Africa]. The land on the left low and barren: 'from the distance we were from it we were not able to judge of its qualities'. Little vegetation. The ship only proceeding four knots the whole day
(14 Sep 1822) The ship going at a rate of seven and a half knots with increased winds. The weather cloudy with occasional rain. Passing Cape Vaches [?Vleesbai, South Africa] and Cape St Francis [South Africa]. The land west of Cape St Francis greener, with a ridge of 'tolerably high hills' at some distance from the shore, and below, the land known as flats ('tracts of land that have a tolerably even surface, and partially flooded in the winter season'). Seeing some trees and bushes on them. The flats offering no shelter for shipping or boats. 'Taking angles frequently'
(15 Sep 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Receife [Cape Recife, South Africa] at the entrance to Algoa Bay. The country towards the south-west seeming fertile, with some cultivation. Light winds. Anchoring off Port Elizabeth [South Africa] at 4pm. The country low and flat, with sandy soil near the coast. Mr Vidal [Alexander Vidal, first lieutenant, later captain of HMS Barracouta] going on shore to take observations. Remaining on board until the following morning, it being too late for plant collecting
(16 Sep 1822) Everyone anxious to go on shore to see the new settlement 'that had made so much noise in England'. Expecting to find plants not found nearer the Cape [Cape of Good Hope]. Not being disappointed: finding 80 or 90 new plants during their 48-hour stay. The colony new, with about 30 houses, and more being built. The land not good, being sand or poor sandy loam full of stones. Being told the land further inland was better: 'this place must depend chiefly on the shipping that touch at it for supplies ['supplies' crossed out and replaced with 'its future prosperity']'
Landing difficult due to heavy surf, and having to use surf boats: 'these are boats of a peculiar construction, provided by government, they are flat-bottomed, deep, strong, and square at the ends, and are hauled in and out through the surf by means of a rope fastened to an anchor and laid out beyond where the surf generally breaks, and the other end made fast on shore. By these boats communication with vessels can be effected almost at any time, when it would be impossible for common boats to attempt a landing'
Going on shore and discovering that Alexander Vidal was staying at the house of the commandant, Captain Evatt [Francis Evatt, commandant of Fort Frederick]. Forbes being offered space in the house for arranging specimens, and men to accompany him on collecting expeditions. Making a short excursion around the town with Evatt and Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven]
Finding a number of plants on a bank overhanging a pool of water, south-west of the landing place. Owen discovering an orchideous plant (specimen 8) ('very elegant'). Finding several of them, with bulbs shallow in the ground, scarcely covered by earth, only by light mould and decayed leaves. Putting the plants in paper. Going out to collect more plants accompanied by two men, wishing to acquire better specimens, as many collected earlier 'were much eaten by the cattle and otherwise stunted'. Finding several beautiful plants in the valley (specimens 62, 63, 66, 67, 75, 76, 78, 91 and 94)
Arriving at a Dutch boor's [boer or farmer] house two miles up the valley. Seeing a hut in the garden, made of a species of Typha growing in the brook, with a fire in the middle on the ground: 'on one side was seated an elderly Hottentot [Khoikhoi] with a sheep's skin thrown carelessly over his shoulders and a piece of coarse linen that just concealed his nakedness. On the other side was seated his daughter, a young woman of about 24 years of age, with one child at the breast and another standing beside her. Her dress consisted of a petticoat and a broadish strip of cloth to fasten the infant on her projecting posterior when she walked'. The hut about nine feet long and seven broad: 'in this small space frequently 12 or 14 adults and five or six children sleep'
Turning left from the hut to go into the flat. Seeing several beautiful plants. Finding four of 'the most beautiful orchids I had seen' (specimens 56-59) on the return journey after sunset. Having seen some of specimen 56 near the hut visited earlier, and some near Cape Point [South Africa], but not in flower. Finding specimen 101 in flower, having seen it previously near Simon's Bay, but not in blossom. Collecting several to plant in soil in boxes on board the ship 'in order to make specimens of them'. Not having seen specimens 57 and 58 previously: 'the last one is peculiarly handsome'. All growing in a sandy, heathy soil. William Owen proposing sailing the following afternoon. Writing letters. Latitude of Port Elizabeth 33°58'00''S, longitude 7°12'E of Simon's Bay, or 25°44'30''E of Greenwich
(17 Sep 1822) Going on board in the morning to bring seeds on shore ('an article much wanted at this place'). Leaving behind some loquats (Mespilus japonicus) [Eriobotrya japonica] brought from the Cape [Cape of Good Hope], that 'excellent fruit tree' not previously found at Port Elizabeth [annotated: 'the commandant [Francis Evatt] had informed us that a rock or a shoal of rocks existed bearing ESE [east-south-east] from his house at the entrance into the bay, on which the sea broke occasionally with great violence. Today we had all a distinct view of it. Mr Vidal [Alexander Vidal] took the bearings of it from Port Elizabeth & sent an officer down to the point to observe it there also. It bore SE&E [south-east and east] from the commandant's house']
Arranging plants collected the previous day. Vidal taking 'observations of the sun, to correspond with those taken in the morning'. Supplies of fresh beef, vegetables and butter sent on board. Going on board the ship at sunset. 'I must observe that we had much more civility and kindness shown us here by the commandant and officers stationed at this place, than we met with at Simon's Town [South Africa], and I believe one left it with more regret and desire to return, than they did to the other place'
(18 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor and sailing from Port Elizabeth with a 'pretty stiff breeze'. Passing a considerable distance along the coast. Taking the bearings of the headlands and making sketches of the coast [annotated in pencil: 'current from the SE [south-east] round Cape Lagullhas [Cape Agulhas]']
(19 Sep 1822) Cloudy with some rain. The winds light in the evening. No land in sight. Arranging specimens and putting them into fresh paper. At 10pm, 'tried temperature of sea by Dr Marcet's water bottle [Alexander Marcet invented a bottle for retrieving samples of seawater]', measuring temperatures of 68° at 5-30 fathoms, 67° at the surface, 61° in the open air and 66° in the fore cabin. Latitude 32°52'S, longitude 9°56' by 'dead reckoning' [the process of calculating one's current position by using a previously determined position, or fix, and advancing that position based on known or estimated speeds over elapsed time and course]
(20 Sep 1822) 'Nothing particular occurred today'. Passing the extreme ['extreme' crossed out and replaced with '1st'] point of Natal [KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa]. Arranging specimens, 'which is and must always be done with considerable inconvenience on board ship. The motion of the vessel, want of room, light etc, and if taken on deck the wind will probably blow some of them away'
(21 Sep 1822) Seeing the 'bluff table land' at the entrance to St John's River [Mzimvubu River, South Africa]. The land 'very singular', with lofty table hills on each side unlike anything else on the journey from Simon's Bay. In the afternoon, sounding [measuring the depth of water], taking the bearings and sketching the land. Seeing several whales. A fine day with smooth sea, 'current S37 W34 miles'. In the evening, seeing a fire on the hill near the mouth of the river. Latitude 32°01'S, longitude 11°31'40'' [annotated: 'E of Simon's Bay']
(22 Sep 1822) Making little progress. The winds very light, 'current S51 W47 miles'. The sea smooth, the day fine. Wind increasing after sunset. At midnight going at a rate of nine knots. Changing specimen papers. Latitude 32°24'17'', longitude 11°30'10''E [annotated: 'noon of Simon's Town [South Africa]']
(23 Sep 1822) Fine weather with a fair wind. No land in sight. No current. Several birds around the ship's stern, including albatrosses (Diomedea exulans) and three or four species of petrels (Procellaria). Seeing stormy petrels (Procellaria pelagica) [?Hydrobates pelagicus], having only seen one previously on the journey from Rio de Janeiro [Brazil] to the Cape of Good Hope. Latitude 31°41'29'', longitude 14°35'00''
[The entry for 26 Sep crossed out: (26 Sep) Not having made much progress for a day or two. The atmosphere clear and cloudless. Coming in sight of Cape St Mary's [Cape Santa Maria, Ilha da Inhaca, Mozambique] on the left of the entrance into Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], having expected to see it the whole of that and the previous day]
(27 Sep 1822) Coming in sight of Cape St Mary's [Cape Santa Maria], left of the entrance into Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], about five leagues away. Anchoring at Delagoa Bay. Seeing two whalers from London anchored by the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo, Mozambique]. The masters [naval officers responsible for navigation] of both coming on board the ship in the evening, giving William Owen advice regarding the bay and anchoring. The bay extensive, the shoreline low and sandy near the entrance [crossed out: 'Cape St Mary's & Reuben Point [Ponta Vermelha, Mozambique] are the only places that seem elevated out of the water']. The mean width of the bay about 21 miles. The distance from Cape St Mary's to the anchorage in the English River about 20 miles
(28 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor at 1am. Anchoring in the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo] off the Portuguese fort at 4am. Going on shore after breakfast with Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere, apparently accompanying Captain William Owen on HMS Leven to study hydrography] and Alexander Vidal to the Portuguese fort to pay respects to the Portuguese commandant [Jacques Casimir, commander of the Portuguese fort in Mozambique] and to deliver letters and newspapers from Rio de Janeiro to him
'The Portuguese establishment here is very insignificant, no regular governor, only an acting commandant for the time being'. The rest of the Portuguese population, 50 or 60 people including the soldiers, being 'convicts and delinquents, who have violated the laws of their country'. The fort consisting of six or eight pieces of corroded and rusted ordinance [ordnance, military equipment], with the exterior 'mouldering and falling away'. The interior in better condition, but 'altogether incapable of making any defence in case of an attack'. The commandant treating them with politeness: 'It was perhaps partly through fear at seeing a British Man of War so close under the walls of his miserable fort'. Having difficulty explaining the purpose of their visit, despite letters brought by William Owen and explanations by the 'linguist', Mr Philipps [George Phillips, interpreter, who joined the ship in Portugal]
Going along the beach to look at the watering place for ships east of the fort. Proceeding a little further to search for a place to pitch a tent and take observations [annotated: 'as some inconvenience would have attended our building a hut on Reuben Point [Ponta Vermelha], as was Captain Owen's [William Owen] original wish and intention'
Due to the distance from the ship and the watering place, as well as 'our utter unacquaintance with the dispositions of the inhabitants whose languages we did not understand', Alexander Vidal asking William Owen to obtain a room at the Portuguese fort for storing the astronomical instruments and for taking observations from. Jacques Casimir giving a large house for their use, the residence of the previous governor, with an enclosed garden
Most of the land cultivated. Seeing 'nothing but the female part of the natives at work', sowing Indian corn (Zea mays) [flint corn] and pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo). Seeing very few vegetables and fruits, it being the beginning of the rainy season, with trees coming to leaf and bloom. The soil a very dry, sharp, red sand with loam. Seeing numerous 'inhabitants', with houses built of reeds in a circular form, about 12 or 15 feet in circumference, with a roof 'not unlike an umbrella'. Going on board the ship in the evening
(29 Sep 1822) Taking the instruments for observation, beds and other 'necessaries' on shore. Arranging the accommodation. William Owen and most of the officers coming on shore in the afternoon
(30 Sep 1822) [Monday] Bringing the remainder of the baggage to the observatory [the governor's house]. Going out with Charles Lechmere to the other side of the village to find out which plants were in blossom and where to find the best specimens. Shooting several birds. Seeing several antelopes, but not managing to shoot any. The birds (specimen 4) living among the oxen, 'frequently five or six of them on one beast, eating the insects off them' [annotated: 'Buphaga africana [Buphagus africanus]']. Starting to dig the garden of the observatory, putting in dung from two cattle kraals or folds, 'which had been neglected both by the natives and Portuguese'
(1 Oct 1822) [Tuesday] Planting vines brought from the Cape [Cape of Good Hope], 'I believe the first ever planted on this colony' [annotated: 'vines have been introduced here before by the Portuguese, but either through mismanagement, climate, soil, or local situation they have not succeeded & at present there is not one existing in this part of Africa']
Going out with Charles Lechmere to a freshwater lake north of the observatory. The lake about three quarters of a mile long and half a mile broad. Seeing several Hippopotamus amphibius, coming occasionally to the surface, snorting, and going down again. Seeing numerous ducks, geese, widgeons, two species of Jacana (Parra [annotated: 'africana?']) [Actophilornis africanus] (specimens 14-16) and several birds of the order Grallae. Shooting them
A fence of stakes and bushes around the lake, with openings for the hippopotamus to go through at night to feed, set with traps, with a tree or a large bough 15-20 feet high placed near, a heavy piece of wood suspended from the top by a climbing plant instead of a cord, and the iron of a hassegay [assagai] or spear fixed at the lower end of the piece of wood, wrapped in grass or rushes. The cord suspended across the path of the animals, who, on breaking it, bring down the log and the spear: 'the log of wood is merely to drive the spear in. From this wound he bleeds freely and returns enraged to the water where he dies. The carcass is washed upon the beach in a few days, when the natives are on the look out to take out the teeth for barter', and cut up the flesh for food, 'of which they are very fond'
Seeing very few plants and trees in flower, but expecting the rainy season to bring them into bloom within a week or 10 days [annotated: 'The water in this lake [is excellent, superior to any I have tasted near English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo]']. The soil near the lake [annotated: 'Lake Moonyeena [unidentified]'] good, with the water supply being taken advantage of to cultivate Indian corn (Zea mays) [flint corn], rice (Oryza sativa), sweet potatoes (Convolvulus batata) [Ipomoea batatas], pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo) and 'some degenerate kinds of onions'. All the agricultural labour being performed by the women, 'which in this, as well as in every other respect, are the abject slaves of the men'
(2 Oct 1822) Collecting plants near the observatory. Going on board the ship to arrange joining the boats to survey the river above Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay] with Alexander Vidal and Charles Lechmere
(3 Oct 1822) [Thursday] Taking baggage on board the Troughton cutter. Sailing from HMS Leven in the afternoon accompanied by three other boats, the Hardy, the Hurd and the Cockburn, with Alexander Vidal commanding the expedition. Forbes travelling on the Troughton [annotated: 'it being the largest boat'], with Charles Lechmere up the left hand bank, Vidal's boat travelling on the right and the two others in the centre. The river widening but the water shallow and the banks low. The land nearby flooding at spring tide and the rainy season. The only trees on the banks mangrove (Rhizophora). Seeing several Grallae birds on the banks and large flocks of flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber) in the shoals of the river
Camping on an island [annotated: 'Refuge Island'] at the junction of three rivers. Seeing various birds roosting in the trees near the camp. Going out in the moonlight to shoot a couple, 'which were both spoiled for skinning by falling in the mud and bleeding, their plumage being the most delicate white'. Being troubled by mosquitoes [annotated: '(Culex)'] at night, keeping them away with large fires
(4 Oct 1822) [Friday] Collecting 'all the plants within reach', consisting of three species of mangroves (Rhizophora) [annotated in pencil: 'all my specimens of this plant were spoiled with the water getting into the can in which I had placed them, wetting the paper as well as all the rest of my baggage']. Shooting a bird of the order Picae. Open boats being 'awkward' places for skinning birds or arranging specimens, getting wet with spray, blowing away with the wind or being knocked into the bottom of the boat among the water by the sailors, who 'consider every thing of this kind as useless lumber and would rather destroy them than not'
Proceeding up the northern branch of the river. Near the next junction, about one and a half miles up, seeing the first Hippopotamus coming to the surface, blowing and snorting 'like a whale' and then descending again. One branch of the river going north, the other north-north-west. Seeing 'groups of natives' on the banks: 'they are the same nation as those at the anchorage in English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo], all subjects of the King Mataul ['Mataul' corrected in pencil to 'Mattol' [?Machekane, king of Matola or Matsolo]]. They seemed a good deal astonished at seeing such a number of boats'
Further up the river, the scenery and country more diverse, with a greater variety of plants: 'I passed by numbers with great reluctance, although by far the greatest number were neither in flower nor fruit'. Seeing many hippopotamuses. Shooting one and wounding it: 'it seemed inclined to attack the boat, but seeing such a number of us with muskets [annotated: 'certainly it would have no more fear from us having these arms'] (which by the bye would not one of them go off), it made a tremendous rush past the boat into deep water'. At 4pm, not being able to proceed on the boats with only two feet of water with the tide out and the width of the river 32 feet. Turning back and returning four or five miles down the river to encamp. Being caught in a heavy thunder storm: 'all our baggage & ourselves wet'
Shooting an old vulture and taking two young ones from a nest built in a tree. Seeing numerous vultures, but not having time to stop for them or any other birds. The country fine, with rich, deep soil. The spring tide overflowing the riverbanks, producing an abundance of reeds, including Arundo and 'other coarse Gramineae' in the rainy season. The hippopotamuses feeding on these and, if not available, on the Indian corn [flint corn] and rice 'of the poor natives'. The water salty. Not seeing any tributary streams
(5 Oct 1822) [Saturday] Parties sent to search for water at dawn but without success. Finding two beautiful plants (specimens 32 and 33), the only ones in flower. Sowing seeds of mustard, cress, cabbage and turnip and planting vines and loquats. Two boats sent off to search for locals to enquire about water, 'among which was one of King Mataul's [?Machekane] secretaries of state, a sable [black] gentleman without a stitch of clothes on him, but a greater share of ornaments than his less favoured companions, but to crown all he carried a 100 years old Portuguese musket, which was a sufficient passport for him wherever he went'. The gentleman offering to show them water for a few leaves of tobacco: 'this enormous fee we very willingly paid'. About half a mile down the river, landing among 'a number of natives' and finding excellent water
Finding a beautiful orchideous plant (specimen 34). The locals having nothing else to barter but their 'hassegays [assagai] & spears, which they paid with for buttons, beads, knives, tobacco, handkerchiefs etc. For one of the small common gilt Jew's[?] looking glasses, one of the gentlemen got one of their best spears and a couple of hassegays. They were highly amused and gaped and stared like idiots at this trinket'
Temperature at 6am 65°, at 10am 76° and at 11am in the sun 110°. Leaving the river at 11am. Alexander Vidal landing at noon at the previous camping place [annotated: 'Refuge Island'], to 'get the meridian observation of the sun [annotated: 'for latitude']'. The boats proceeding up to survey the southern river [annotated: 'afterwards called Temby River [Tembe River, Mozambique]'], the largest branch of English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo]. The land on the right bank low, covered with mangroves, and the trees on the left side more varied, with deep, sharp, red loam. The river half a mile wide, with five or six fathoms of water at three quarters flow of the tide
Landing in King Capel's dominion [King Kapell had recently died, with his son Mayeta succeeding him as ruler of Tembe] at 4.30pm. Pitching tents. Vegetables cultivated including Indian corn [flint corn], rice, sweet potatoes (Convolvolus batata) [Ipomoea batatas], pumpkins and the makaka ['makaka' crossed out and replaced with 'maquaqua'] fruit [?Crescentia cujete]'], eaten everywhere in the country, forming in the season 'a considerable article of food of these wretched people, who are rendered more miserable and unhappy by seeing our clothes, buttons and other luxuries'
The locals making 'sad complaints' of having been robbed and plundered by 'the Hollontontos, a tribe from the south-west. At midnight, observing three signal rockets from the ships bearing north-east. Responding with two. Being annoyed at having people approaching the tents, 'but the rockets we let off and the vigilant watch we kept all night prevented them coming within a considerable distance'
(6 Oct 1822) [Sunday] Sailing from the encampment. Temperature 75° in the shade. Seeing mangrove trees on the riverbanks. 'More natives today than on any previous day'. Seeing many birds of the order Grallae: 'the boats were so busily employed surveying that they could not stop to shoot or pick up any of them'
Noting that one boat not allocated to surveying duty would have enabled the procuring of numerous birds and plants, it being impossible to dry specimens of plants or to skin birds in a small open boat during surveying. Passing several vultures' nests. Shooting at the birds, but the first shot 'had only the effect of making them raise their heads out of the nest to look round them, & they would frequently sit quite undisturbed until a second shot was fired at them' [annotated: 'the whole of their bodies except the head & neck is so completely covered with quantities of strong feathers, that while they remain in a sitting posture they may defy anything less than a ball']
Alexander Vidal stopping at noon to observe the meridian altitude of the sun to ascertain their latitude. Trading with the locals, 'but they had little or nothing ['or nothing' crossed out] to offer us but their hassegays [assagai], which they parted with for tobacco, beads or buttons'. Acquiring six fowls for a couple of Malay knives costing 10d each in England. Iron hoops and blue dungaree [a type of cotton fabric] being desirable items. The local people wearing ornaments of beads, bones, claws of birds and tufts of hair
Seeing seven hippopotamuses in the afternoon: 'their noise is an unpleasant snort between the grunt of the hog and the bleat of the cow or ox'. Water depth five fathoms at low tide. A heavy thunder storm approaching, hurrying to the shore to pitch tents but not managing to finish: 'this was unfortunate, for it not only wet our baggage, but made the ground which we had to sleep on a complete puddle; the ground was very uneven here by the feet of the hippopotamus sinking into it when it was wet'
Camping in King Mataul's [?Machekane] dominion. Seeing Arduinea bispinosa [Carissa bispinosa] in flower, with a 'grateful odour'. Finding Haemanthus (specimen 30) and Acrostichum (specimen 31) [annotated in pencil: 'the specimens of this & several other plants were took the night the Hollontontos attacked us']. Charles Lechmere shooting some hares
(7 Oct 1822) [Monday] Dismantling tents and embarking on boats. Temperature 74° at 9am. Seeing a party of 'Hollontontos' on the opposite bank, and a little further 'fell in with a party of the defeated, retreating subjects of King Capell [Mayeta, king of Tembe]', beckoning to be taken across the river in the boats. Alexander Vidal taking several women and children over, 'but they would not remain, when they found their husbands and the men would not join them; they wished to return and share the fate of their husbands'. Returning the people to the other shore
Landing for water at a place 'the highest any Portuguese boats have ever been'. The Portuguese coming to the place to barter for hippopotamus teeth. Measuring the trunk of a species of Ficus [annotated in pencil: 'specimens of this plant were lost on the night of the 9th/morn [morning] 10th'], with a circumference of 22 feet, with good walnut-sized fruit. The country becoming more diverse and the riverbanks higher. Seeing many hippopotamuses. The boat with Forbes being considerably behind the other boats, hearing shots fired and firing in return, assuming them to be signals. Learning later that the shots were fired at hippopotamuses, catching a young one separated from its mother: 'the animal, which did not seem to be more than 5 or 6 days old, weighed above 70 pounds, the flesh like veal but very fat, & good eating'. Seeing another group of hippopotamuses. An officer with two men going on shore to shoot them, but being unsuccessful as their thick skin protected them from bullets: 'he must be an excellent marksman that could shoot them in the eye which is the only vulnerable part'
Seeing the other boats landing at the left bank. Going with Charles Lechmere to shoot 'something for the pot'. Seeing several 'fine bucks' but not being able to get close. Finding huts with local people roasting maquaquas [annotated: 'or calabashes'] or quanande eusabe [?Crescentia cujete] in a reed oven built 'in rather an ingenious manner', about three feet in diameter and three feet deep, plastered inside and outside with clay, a fire made at the bottom, with a 'grating of basket work, on which the seeds & pulp are placed and parched', then pounded in a wooden mortar made of a tree trunk and crushed with a wooden pestle 'as thick as a man's leg'. The fruit being the main staple food during the rainy season when rice, Indian corn [flint corn], pumpkins and sweet potatoes were not available: 'it has a bitter unpleasant taste to a European'
Finding the place best to camp, with dry soil, plenty of wood and water nearby: 'the scene at this place at midnight had something solemn and sublime in it', with a clear starlit sky, the only sounds the cracking of the fire, the snorting of the hippopotamuses and their movements in and out of the river, the screaming birds [annotated: 'a species of Ibis'], 'mingled with the cries of 'all well' from the centinels [sentinels] round the tents'. Camping on the riverbank, with dense, lofty trees behind. Believing the location to be higher inland in that part of Africa than any Europeans had previously been. Alexander Vidal taking observations of stars to ascertain longitude
(8 Oct 1822) [Tuesday] Digging up several roots of a species of Amaryllideae not seen lower down the river. The plant not in flower, 'but from their appearance there is no doubt of this being a very fine plant'. Collecting some plant specimens. At 7.30am, sailing up the river with the flood tide. The river narrowing and the country becoming more diverse
Arriving at a junction of two rivers of equal size at 9am. Alexander Vidal choosing the left river, with the other boats following. The river narrowing, with fallen trees making it almost impassable and difficult for the boats to proceed. The banks high with fine, sandy loam. Shooting a bat (Vespertilio) [annotated in pencil: 'the specimen of this animal was thrown into the boat & spoiled on the night of the 9th or more properly the morning of the 10th'], 'upwards of two feet in the spread of the membrane'. The people in the first boat seeing monkeys fleeing
Not being able to proceed further by noon. Vidal stopping to take observations of the sun to ascertain latitude [annotated: 'the latitude of this place by these observations is fixing it at 26°17'02''']. 'We here regaled ourselves with some biscuits and English cheese & some w. John Forbes' travel journal, 12 Sep-30 Nov 1822, in South Africa and Mozambique. The back of the journal contains lists and notes
Overview of contents:
Page 1: List of astrological symbols for weekdays
Pages 2-4: Blank
Pages 5-63: Narrative of travel, 12 Sep-14 Oct 1822
Pages 64-66: Blank
Pages 67-115: Narrative of travel, 14 Oct-30 Nov 1822
Pages 116-118: Blank
Pages 119-120: 'Vocabulary of the Language Spoken by the Natives about English river, Delagoa, the Syllable to be pronounced as in English, the words being accented'
Page 121: Blank
Page 122: 'Thermometer at Observatory Eng River, Delagoa Bay, Sep 1822', 'Case of green glass jars, No 12'
Pages 123-125: Blank
Page 126: 'Vocabulary of the language spoken by the Natives about English river under King's Capel & Mataul'
Pages 127-128: 'Case No 11, Royal College of Surgeons, London (Containing Spirits of Wine)'
Page 129: Blank
Page 130: 'Bulbs Delagoa Bay'
Page 131: Blank
Page 132: Notes
Pages 133-134: Blank
Physical description: Bound in soft paper covers marbled in red/brown shell pattern with blue veins. Labelled 'Duplicate Journal. September 12 1822 to November 30 1822'. The spine is becoming detached from the binding. The binding is intact but weak. Pages are reasonably robust. Fragile. Handle with care. Dimensions: 31 (h) x 20 (w) cm
This journal appears to be Forbes' original journal, with his own pencil annotations. For another copy of the journal, see RHS/Col/3/1/5
The volume is written in Forbes' hand, on rectos only. The volume is annotated in pencil and in different inks by Forbes (annotations by Forbes unless otherwise indicated), with marginal and interlinear annotations, annotations on the blank verso pages, corrections and crossings out. The more substantial annotations have been included and identified in the description, whilst minor alterations of spelling or phrasing have not been noted
The journal contains headings with locations. Astrological symbols are used to signify weekdays. There are blank spaces left for plant names and reference numbers, some of which were subsequently filled in
The volume was reversed, with the back of the journal used for lists and notes
Original foliation is on upper-right hand corner of rectos (folios 1-9). The volume was paginated on the upper right-hand corner of rectos during cataloguing
Summary of contents:
(12 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor and sailing from Simon's Bay [South Africa] at dawn. Passing an Indiaman [East India Company ship], whose last stop had been Madeira [Portugal], carrying no letters for them. Seeing pintado birds (Procellaria capensis) [Cape petrel, Daption capense] ('our old companions') and albatrosses (Diomedea exulans). Passing Cape Hangclip [Cape Hangklip, South Africa], forming the entrance into False Bay [South Africa], together with the Cape of Good Hope [South Africa]. Passing Point Danger [Danger Point South Africa] and Cape L'Agullas [Cape Agulhas, South Africa] at sunset. The coast barren and uninhabited, with no landing places for boats. Leaving the Cockburn to follow ['follow' crossed out and replaced with 'proceed direct'] to Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay, Mozambique], intending to join it there. A fine breeze
(13 Sep 1822) Fine weather with a light breeze. Steering towards Algoa Bay [South Africa]. The land on the left low and barren: 'from the distance we were from it we were not able to judge of its qualities'. Little vegetation. The ship only proceeding four knots the whole day
(14 Sep 1822) The ship going at a rate of seven and a half knots with increased winds. The weather cloudy with occasional rain. Passing Cape Vaches [?Vleesbai, South Africa] and Cape St Francis [South Africa]. The land west of Cape St Francis greener, with a ridge of 'tolerably high hills' at some distance from the shore, and below, the land known as flats ('tracts of land that have a tolerably even surface, and partially flooded in the winter season'). Seeing some trees and bushes on them. The flats offering no shelter for shipping or boats. 'Taking angles frequently'
(15 Sep 1822) Coming in sight of Cape Receife [Cape Recife, South Africa] at the entrance to Algoa Bay. The country towards the south-west seeming fertile, with some cultivation. Light winds. Anchoring off Port Elizabeth [South Africa] at 4pm. The country low and flat, with sandy soil near the coast. Mr Vidal [Alexander Vidal, first lieutenant, later captain of HMS Barracouta] going on shore to take observations. Remaining on board until the following morning, it being too late for plant collecting
(16 Sep 1822) Everyone anxious to go on shore to see the new settlement 'that had made so much noise in England'. Expecting to find plants not found nearer the Cape [Cape of Good Hope]. Not being disappointed: finding 80 or 90 new plants during their 48-hour stay. The colony new, with about 30 houses, and more being built. The land not good, being sand or poor sandy loam full of stones. Being told the land further inland was better: 'this place must depend chiefly on the shipping that touch at it for supplies ['supplies' crossed out and replaced with 'its future prosperity']'
Landing difficult due to heavy surf, and having to use surf boats: 'these are boats of a peculiar construction, provided by government, they are flat-bottomed, deep, strong, and square at the ends, and are hauled in and out through the surf by means of a rope fastened to an anchor and laid out beyond where the surf generally breaks, and the other end made fast on shore. By these boats communication with vessels can be effected almost at any time, when it would be impossible for common boats to attempt a landing'
Going on shore and discovering that Alexander Vidal was staying at the house of the commandant, Captain Evatt [Francis Evatt, commandant of Fort Frederick]. Forbes being offered space in the house for arranging specimens, and men to accompany him on collecting expeditions. Making a short excursion around the town with Evatt and Captain Owen [William FitzWilliam Owen, captain of HMS Leven]
Finding a number of plants on a bank overhanging a pool of water, south-west of the landing place. Owen discovering an orchideous plant (specimen 8) ('very elegant'). Finding several of them, with bulbs shallow in the ground, scarcely covered by earth, only by light mould and decayed leaves. Putting the plants in paper. Going out to collect more plants accompanied by two men, wishing to acquire better specimens, as many collected earlier 'were much eaten by the cattle and otherwise stunted'. Finding several beautiful plants in the valley (specimens 62, 63, 66, 67, 75, 76, 78, 91 and 94)
Arriving at a Dutch boor's [boer or farmer] house two miles up the valley. Seeing a hut in the garden, made of a species of Typha growing in the brook, with a fire in the middle on the ground: 'on one side was seated an elderly Hottentot [Khoikhoi] with a sheep's skin thrown carelessly over his shoulders and a piece of coarse linen that just concealed his nakedness. On the other side was seated his daughter, a young woman of about 24 years of age, with one child at the breast and another standing beside her. Her dress consisted of a petticoat and a broadish strip of cloth to fasten the infant on her projecting posterior when she walked'. The hut about nine feet long and seven broad: 'in this small space frequently 12 or 14 adults and five or six children sleep'
Turning left from the hut to go into the flat. Seeing several beautiful plants. Finding four of 'the most beautiful orchids I had seen' (specimens 56-59) on the return journey after sunset. Having seen some of specimen 56 near the hut visited earlier, and some near Cape Point [South Africa], but not in flower. Finding specimen 101 in flower, having seen it previously near Simon's Bay, but not in blossom. Collecting several to plant in soil in boxes on board the ship 'in order to make specimens of them'. Not having seen specimens 57 and 58 previously: 'the last one is peculiarly handsome'. All growing in a sandy, heathy soil. William Owen proposing sailing the following afternoon. Writing letters. Latitude of Port Elizabeth 33°58'00''S, longitude 7°12'E of Simon's Bay, or 25°44'30''E of Greenwich
(17 Sep 1822) Going on board in the morning to bring seeds on shore ('an article much wanted at this place'). Leaving behind some loquats (Mespilus japonicus) [Eriobotrya japonica] brought from the Cape [Cape of Good Hope], that 'excellent fruit tree' not previously found at Port Elizabeth [annotated: 'the commandant [Francis Evatt] had informed us that a rock or a shoal of rocks existed bearing ESE [east-south-east] from his house at the entrance into the bay, on which the sea broke occasionally with great violence. Today we had all a distinct view of it. Mr Vidal [Alexander Vidal] took the bearings of it from Port Elizabeth & sent an officer down to the point to observe it there also. It bore SE&E [south-east and east] from the commandant's house']
Arranging plants collected the previous day. Vidal taking 'observations of the sun, to correspond with those taken in the morning'. Supplies of fresh beef, vegetables and butter sent on board. Going on board the ship at sunset. 'I must observe that we had much more civility and kindness shown us here by the commandant and officers stationed at this place, than we met with at Simon's Town [South Africa], and I believe one left it with more regret and desire to return, than they did to the other place'
(18 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor and sailing from Port Elizabeth with a 'pretty stiff breeze'. Passing a considerable distance along the coast. Taking the bearings of the headlands and making sketches of the coast [annotated in pencil: 'current from the SE [south-east] round Cape Lagullhas [Cape Agulhas]']
(19 Sep 1822) Cloudy with some rain. The winds light in the evening. No land in sight. Arranging specimens and putting them into fresh paper. At 10pm, 'tried temperature of sea by Dr Marcet's water bottle [Alexander Marcet invented a bottle for retrieving samples of seawater]', measuring temperatures of 68° at 5-30 fathoms, 67° at the surface, 61° in the open air and 66° in the fore cabin. Latitude 32°52'S, longitude 9°56' by 'dead reckoning' [the process of calculating one's current position by using a previously determined position, or fix, and advancing that position based on known or estimated speeds over elapsed time and course]
(20 Sep 1822) 'Nothing particular occurred today'. Passing the extreme ['extreme' crossed out and replaced with '1st'] point of Natal [KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa]. Arranging specimens, 'which is and must always be done with considerable inconvenience on board ship. The motion of the vessel, want of room, light etc, and if taken on deck the wind will probably blow some of them away'
(21 Sep 1822) Seeing the 'bluff table land' at the entrance to St John's River [Mzimvubu River, South Africa]. The land 'very singular', with lofty table hills on each side unlike anything else on the journey from Simon's Bay. In the afternoon, sounding [measuring the depth of water], taking the bearings and sketching the land. Seeing several whales. A fine day with smooth sea, 'current S37 W34 miles'. In the evening, seeing a fire on the hill near the mouth of the river. Latitude 32°01'S, longitude 11°31'40'' [annotated: 'E of Simon's Bay']
(22 Sep 1822) Making little progress. The winds very light, 'current S51 W47 miles'. The sea smooth, the day fine. Wind increasing after sunset. At midnight going at a rate of nine knots. Changing specimen papers. Latitude 32°24'17'', longitude 11°30'10''E [annotated: 'noon of Simon's Town [South Africa]']
(23 Sep 1822) Fine weather with a fair wind. No land in sight. No current. Several birds around the ship's stern, including albatrosses (Diomedea exulans) and three or four species of petrels (Procellaria). Seeing stormy petrels (Procellaria pelagica) [?Hydrobates pelagicus], having only seen one previously on the journey from Rio de Janeiro [Brazil] to the Cape of Good Hope. Latitude 31°41'29'', longitude 14°35'00''
[The entry for 26 Sep crossed out: (26 Sep) Not having made much progress for a day or two. The atmosphere clear and cloudless. Coming in sight of Cape St Mary's [Cape Santa Maria, Ilha da Inhaca, Mozambique] on the left of the entrance into Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], having expected to see it the whole of that and the previous day]
(27 Sep 1822) Coming in sight of Cape St Mary's [Cape Santa Maria], left of the entrance into Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay], about five leagues away. Anchoring at Delagoa Bay. Seeing two whalers from London anchored by the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo, Mozambique]. The masters [naval officers responsible for navigation] of both coming on board the ship in the evening, giving William Owen advice regarding the bay and anchoring. The bay extensive, the shoreline low and sandy near the entrance [crossed out: 'Cape St Mary's & Reuben Point [Ponta Vermelha, Mozambique] are the only places that seem elevated out of the water']. The mean width of the bay about 21 miles. The distance from Cape St Mary's to the anchorage in the English River about 20 miles
(28 Sep 1822) Weighing anchor at 1am. Anchoring in the English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo] off the Portuguese fort at 4am. Going on shore after breakfast with Captain Lechmere [Charles Lechmere, apparently accompanying Captain William Owen on HMS Leven to study hydrography] and Alexander Vidal to the Portuguese fort to pay respects to the Portuguese commandant [Jacques Casimir, commander of the Portuguese fort in Mozambique] and to deliver letters and newspapers from Rio de Janeiro to him
'The Portuguese establishment here is very insignificant, no regular governor, only an acting commandant for the time being'. The rest of the Portuguese population, 50 or 60 people including the soldiers, being 'convicts and delinquents, who have violated the laws of their country'. The fort consisting of six or eight pieces of corroded and rusted ordinance [ordnance, military equipment], with the exterior 'mouldering and falling away'. The interior in better condition, but 'altogether incapable of making any defence in case of an attack'. The commandant treating them with politeness: 'It was perhaps partly through fear at seeing a British Man of War so close under the walls of his miserable fort'. Having difficulty explaining the purpose of their visit, despite letters brought by William Owen and explanations by the 'linguist', Mr Philipps [George Phillips, interpreter, who joined the ship in Portugal]
Going along the beach to look at the watering place for ships east of the fort. Proceeding a little further to search for a place to pitch a tent and take observations [annotated: 'as some inconvenience would have attended our building a hut on Reuben Point [Ponta Vermelha], as was Captain Owen's [William Owen] original wish and intention'
Due to the distance from the ship and the watering place, as well as 'our utter unacquaintance with the dispositions of the inhabitants whose languages we did not understand', Alexander Vidal asking William Owen to obtain a room at the Portuguese fort for storing the astronomical instruments and for taking observations from. Jacques Casimir giving a large house for their use, the residence of the previous governor, with an enclosed garden
Most of the land cultivated. Seeing 'nothing but the female part of the natives at work', sowing Indian corn (Zea mays) [flint corn] and pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo). Seeing very few vegetables and fruits, it being the beginning of the rainy season, with trees coming to leaf and bloom. The soil a very dry, sharp, red sand with loam. Seeing numerous 'inhabitants', with houses built of reeds in a circular form, about 12 or 15 feet in circumference, with a roof 'not unlike an umbrella'. Going on board the ship in the evening
(29 Sep 1822) Taking the instruments for observation, beds and other 'necessaries' on shore. Arranging the accommodation. William Owen and most of the officers coming on shore in the afternoon
(30 Sep 1822) [Monday] Bringing the remainder of the baggage to the observatory [the governor's house]. Going out with Charles Lechmere to the other side of the village to find out which plants were in blossom and where to find the best specimens. Shooting several birds. Seeing several antelopes, but not managing to shoot any. The birds (specimen 4) living among the oxen, 'frequently five or six of them on one beast, eating the insects off them' [annotated: 'Buphaga africana [Buphagus africanus]']. Starting to dig the garden of the observatory, putting in dung from two cattle kraals or folds, 'which had been neglected both by the natives and Portuguese'
(1 Oct 1822) [Tuesday] Planting vines brought from the Cape [Cape of Good Hope], 'I believe the first ever planted on this colony' [annotated: 'vines have been introduced here before by the Portuguese, but either through mismanagement, climate, soil, or local situation they have not succeeded & at present there is not one existing in this part of Africa']
Going out with Charles Lechmere to a freshwater lake north of the observatory. The lake about three quarters of a mile long and half a mile broad. Seeing several Hippopotamus amphibius, coming occasionally to the surface, snorting, and going down again. Seeing numerous ducks, geese, widgeons, two species of Jacana (Parra [annotated: 'africana?']) [Actophilornis africanus] (specimens 14-16) and several birds of the order Grallae. Shooting them
A fence of stakes and bushes around the lake, with openings for the hippopotamus to go through at night to feed, set with traps, with a tree or a large bough 15-20 feet high placed near, a heavy piece of wood suspended from the top by a climbing plant instead of a cord, and the iron of a hassegay [assagai] or spear fixed at the lower end of the piece of wood, wrapped in grass or rushes. The cord suspended across the path of the animals, who, on breaking it, bring down the log and the spear: 'the log of wood is merely to drive the spear in. From this wound he bleeds freely and returns enraged to the water where he dies. The carcass is washed upon the beach in a few days, when the natives are on the look out to take out the teeth for barter', and cut up the flesh for food, 'of which they are very fond'
Seeing very few plants and trees in flower, but expecting the rainy season to bring them into bloom within a week or 10 days [annotated: 'The water in this lake [is excellent, superior to any I have tasted near English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo]']. The soil near the lake [annotated: 'Lake Moonyeena [unidentified]'] good, with the water supply being taken advantage of to cultivate Indian corn (Zea mays) [flint corn], rice (Oryza sativa), sweet potatoes (Convolvulus batata) [Ipomoea batatas], pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo) and 'some degenerate kinds of onions'. All the agricultural labour being performed by the women, 'which in this, as well as in every other respect, are the abject slaves of the men'
(2 Oct 1822) Collecting plants near the observatory. Going on board the ship to arrange joining the boats to survey the river above Delagoa Bay [Maputo Bay] with Alexander Vidal and Charles Lechmere
(3 Oct 1822) [Thursday] Taking baggage on board the Troughton cutter. Sailing from HMS Leven in the afternoon accompanied by three other boats, the Hardy, the Hurd and the Cockburn, with Alexander Vidal commanding the expedition. Forbes travelling on the Troughton [annotated: 'it being the largest boat'], with Charles Lechmere up the left hand bank, Vidal's boat travelling on the right and the two others in the centre. The river widening but the water shallow and the banks low. The land nearby flooding at spring tide and the rainy season. The only trees on the banks mangrove (Rhizophora). Seeing several Grallae birds on the banks and large flocks of flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber) in the shoals of the river
Camping on an island [annotated: 'Refuge Island'] at the junction of three rivers. Seeing various birds roosting in the trees near the camp. Going out in the moonlight to shoot a couple, 'which were both spoiled for skinning by falling in the mud and bleeding, their plumage being the most delicate white'. Being troubled by mosquitoes [annotated: '(Culex)'] at night, keeping them away with large fires
(4 Oct 1822) [Friday] Collecting 'all the plants within reach', consisting of three species of mangroves (Rhizophora) [annotated in pencil: 'all my specimens of this plant were spoiled with the water getting into the can in which I had placed them, wetting the paper as well as all the rest of my baggage']. Shooting a bird of the order Picae. Open boats being 'awkward' places for skinning birds or arranging specimens, getting wet with spray, blowing away with the wind or being knocked into the bottom of the boat among the water by the sailors, who 'consider every thing of this kind as useless lumber and would rather destroy them than not'
Proceeding up the northern branch of the river. Near the next junction, about one and a half miles up, seeing the first Hippopotamus coming to the surface, blowing and snorting 'like a whale' and then descending again. One branch of the river going north, the other north-north-west. Seeing 'groups of natives' on the banks: 'they are the same nation as those at the anchorage in English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo], all subjects of the King Mataul ['Mataul' corrected in pencil to 'Mattol' [?Machekane, king of Matola or Matsolo]]. They seemed a good deal astonished at seeing such a number of boats'
Further up the river, the scenery and country more diverse, with a greater variety of plants: 'I passed by numbers with great reluctance, although by far the greatest number were neither in flower nor fruit'. Seeing many hippopotamuses. Shooting one and wounding it: 'it seemed inclined to attack the boat, but seeing such a number of us with muskets [annotated: 'certainly it would have no more fear from us having these arms'] (which by the bye would not one of them go off), it made a tremendous rush past the boat into deep water'. At 4pm, not being able to proceed on the boats with only two feet of water with the tide out and the width of the river 32 feet. Turning back and returning four or five miles down the river to encamp. Being caught in a heavy thunder storm: 'all our baggage & ourselves wet'
Shooting an old vulture and taking two young ones from a nest built in a tree. Seeing numerous vultures, but not having time to stop for them or any other birds. The country fine, with rich, deep soil. The spring tide overflowing the riverbanks, producing an abundance of reeds, including Arundo and 'other coarse Gramineae' in the rainy season. The hippopotamuses feeding on these and, if not available, on the Indian corn [flint corn] and rice 'of the poor natives'. The water salty. Not seeing any tributary streams
(5 Oct 1822) [Saturday] Parties sent to search for water at dawn but without success. Finding two beautiful plants (specimens 32 and 33), the only ones in flower. Sowing seeds of mustard, cress, cabbage and turnip and planting vines and loquats. Two boats sent off to search for locals to enquire about water, 'among which was one of King Mataul's [?Machekane] secretaries of state, a sable [black] gentleman without a stitch of clothes on him, but a greater share of ornaments than his less favoured companions, but to crown all he carried a 100 years old Portuguese musket, which was a sufficient passport for him wherever he went'. The gentleman offering to show them water for a few leaves of tobacco: 'this enormous fee we very willingly paid'. About half a mile down the river, landing among 'a number of natives' and finding excellent water
Finding a beautiful orchideous plant (specimen 34). The locals having nothing else to barter but their 'hassegays [assagai] & spears, which they paid with for buttons, beads, knives, tobacco, handkerchiefs etc. For one of the small common gilt Jew's[?] looking glasses, one of the gentlemen got one of their best spears and a couple of hassegays. They were highly amused and gaped and stared like idiots at this trinket'
Temperature at 6am 65°, at 10am 76° and at 11am in the sun 110°. Leaving the river at 11am. Alexander Vidal landing at noon at the previous camping place [annotated: 'Refuge Island'], to 'get the meridian observation of the sun [annotated: 'for latitude']'. The boats proceeding up to survey the southern river [annotated: 'afterwards called Temby River [Tembe River, Mozambique]'], the largest branch of English River [Estuario do Espirito Santo]. The land on the right bank low, covered with mangroves, and the trees on the left side more varied, with deep, sharp, red loam. The river half a mile wide, with five or six fathoms of water at three quarters flow of the tide
Landing in King Capel's dominion [King Kapell had recently died, with his son Mayeta succeeding him as ruler of Tembe] at 4.30pm. Pitching tents. Vegetables cultivated including Indian corn [flint corn], rice, sweet potatoes (Convolvolus batata) [Ipomoea batatas], pumpkins and the makaka ['makaka' crossed out and replaced with 'maquaqua'] fruit [?Crescentia cujete]'], eaten everywhere in the country, forming in the season 'a considerable article of food of these wretched people, who are rendered more miserable and unhappy by seeing our clothes, buttons and other luxuries'
The locals making 'sad complaints' of having been robbed and plundered by 'the Hollontontos, a tribe from the south-west. At midnight, observing three signal rockets from the ships bearing north-east. Responding with two. Being annoyed at having people approaching the tents, 'but the rockets we let off and the vigilant watch we kept all night prevented them coming within a considerable distance'
(6 Oct 1822) [Sunday] Sailing from the encampment. Temperature 75° in the shade. Seeing mangrove trees on the riverbanks. 'More natives today than on any previous day'. Seeing many birds of the order Grallae: 'the boats were so busily employed surveying that they could not stop to shoot or pick up any of them'
Noting that one boat not allocated to surveying duty would have enabled the procuring of numerous birds and plants, it being impossible to dry specimens of plants or to skin birds in a small open boat during surveying. Passing several vultures' nests. Shooting at the birds, but the first shot 'had only the effect of making them raise their heads out of the nest to look round them, & they would frequently sit quite undisturbed until a second shot was fired at them' [annotated: 'the whole of their bodies except the head & neck is so completely covered with quantities of strong feathers, that while they remain in a sitting posture they may defy anything less than a ball']
Alexander Vidal stopping at noon to observe the meridian altitude of the sun to ascertain their latitude. Trading with the locals, 'but they had little or nothing ['or nothing' crossed out] to offer us but their hassegays [assagai], which they parted with for tobacco, beads or buttons'. Acquiring six fowls for a couple of Malay knives costing 10d each in England. Iron hoops and blue dungaree [a type of cotton fabric] being desirable items. The local people wearing ornaments of beads, bones, claws of birds and tufts of hair
Seeing seven hippopotamuses in the afternoon: 'their noise is an unpleasant snort between the grunt of the hog and the bleat of the cow or ox'. Water depth five fathoms at low tide. A heavy thunder storm approaching, hurrying to the shore to pitch tents but not managing to finish: 'this was unfortunate, for it not only wet our baggage, but made the ground which we had to sleep on a complete puddle; the ground was very uneven here by the feet of the hippopotamus sinking into it when it was wet'
Camping in King Mataul's [?Machekane] dominion. Seeing Arduinea bispinosa [Carissa bispinosa] in flower, with a 'grateful odour'. Finding Haemanthus (specimen 30) and Acrostichum (specimen 31) [annotated in pencil: 'the specimens of this & several other plants were took the night the Hollontontos attacked us']. Charles Lechmere shooting some hares
(7 Oct 1822) [Monday] Dismantling tents and embarking on boats. Temperature 74° at 9am. Seeing a party of 'Hollontontos' on the opposite bank, and a little further 'fell in with a party of the defeated, retreating subjects of King Capell [Mayeta, king of Tembe]', beckoning to be taken across the river in the boats. Alexander Vidal taking several women and children over, 'but they would not remain, when they found their husbands and the men would not join them; they wished to return and share the fate of their husbands'. Returning the people to the other shore
Landing for water at a place 'the highest any Portuguese boats have ever been'. The Portuguese coming to the place to barter for hippopotamus teeth. Measuring the trunk of a species of Ficus [annotated in pencil: 'specimens of this plant were lost on the night of the 9th/morn [morning] 10th'], with a circumference of 22 feet, with good walnut-sized fruit. The country becoming more diverse and the riverbanks higher. Seeing many hippopotamuses. The boat with Forbes being considerably behind the other boats, hearing shots fired and firing in return, assuming them to be signals. Learning later that the shots were fired at hippopotamuses, catching a young one separated from its mother: 'the animal, which did not seem to be more than 5 or 6 days old, weighed above 70 pounds, the flesh like veal but very fat, & good eating'. Seeing another group of hippopotamuses. An officer with two men going on shore to shoot them, but being unsuccessful as their thick skin protected them from bullets: 'he must be an excellent marksman that could shoot them in the eye which is the only vulnerable part'
Seeing the other boats landing at the left bank. Going with Charles Lechmere to shoot 'something for the pot'. Seeing several 'fine bucks' but not being able to get close. Finding huts with local people roasting maquaquas [annotated: 'or calabashes'] or quanande eusabe [?Crescentia cujete] in a reed oven built 'in rather an ingenious manner', about three feet in diameter and three feet deep, plastered inside and outside with clay, a fire made at the bottom, with a 'grating of basket work, on which the seeds & pulp are placed and parched', then pounded in a wooden mortar made of a tree trunk and crushed with a wooden pestle 'as thick as a man's leg'. The fruit being the main staple food during the rainy season when rice, Indian corn [flint corn], pumpkins and sweet potatoes were not available: 'it has a bitter unpleasant taste to a European'
Finding the place best to camp, with dry soil, plenty of wood and water nearby: 'the scene at this place at midnight had something solemn and sublime in it', with a clear starlit sky, the only sounds the cracking of the fire, the snorting of the hippopotamuses and their movements in and out of the river, the screaming birds [annotated: 'a species of Ibis'], 'mingled with the cries of 'all well' from the centinels [sentinels] round the tents'. Camping on the riverbank, with dense, lofty trees behind. Believing the location to be higher inland in that part of Africa than any Europeans had previously been. Alexander Vidal taking observations of stars to ascertain longitude
(8 Oct 1822) [Tuesday] Digging up several roots of a species of Amaryllideae not seen lower down the river. The plant not in flower, 'but from their appearance there is no doubt of this being a very fine plant'. Collecting some plant specimens. At 7.30am, sailing up the river with the flood tide. The river narrowing and the country becoming more diverse
Arriving at a junction of two rivers of equal size at 9am. Alexander Vidal choosing the left river, with the other boats following. The river narrowing, with fallen trees making it almost impassable and difficult for the boats to proceed. The banks high with fine, sandy loam. Shooting a bat (Vespertilio) [annotated in pencil: 'the specimen of this animal was thrown into the boat & spoiled on the night of the 9th or more properly the morning of the 10th'], 'upwards of two feet in the spread of the membrane'. The people in the first boat seeing monkeys fleeing
Not being able to proceed further by noon. Vidal stopping to take observations of the sun to ascertain latitude [annotated: 'the latitude of this place by these observations is fixing it at 26°17'02''']. 'We here regaled ourselves with some biscuits and English cheese & some w
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